Quantcast
Channel: By Length – Lakdasun Trip Reports Archive
Viewing all 939 articles
Browse latest View live

Lively golden Peninsula de Jaffna

$
0
0
Year and Month February, 2015
Number of Days Two
Crew Two (Myself and Amila)
Accommodation Amila’s Hotel
Transport Bike
Activities Bird watching, culture, Caving
Weather Perfect weather
Route D1 Chilaw -> Anuradhapura -> Vavuniya -> Jaffna -> Velanei -> Kytes -> Jaffna

D2 Jaffna -> Siruppiddy -> Thondaimanaru -> Kerudavil -> Idaikkadu -> Chunnakam -> Keerimalai -> Ponnalai -> Casuarina beach(Karainagar) -> Jaffna -> Colombo

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Explain your intentions clearly to villagers
  • Knowing tamil is an added advantage

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Amila for Hosting and Danushka for naming the birds

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map of kaytes -click to enlarge

Map of kaytes -click to enlarge

Map around Thondaimanaru - click to enlarge

Map around Thondaimanaru – click to enlarge

I have heard that Jaffna is like paradise especially after the monsoons so I wanted to witness it myself. Since I have visited all of those main attractions around Jaffna I was more focused on some mysterious caves plus bird life. (By the way I did visit Jaffna on the next weekend too will update you guys on that expedition in my next travel log) We had many plans during this weekend but the bad weather made us differ the plans. We were left stranded and no other option other than heading towards Jaffna where Amila’s hotel is been currently completed.

We arrived at Jaffna around 6.30am where we refreshed ourselves and started exploring the peninsula on a bike within no time. Our main objective was hunting bird life specially the Flamingoes. For this we picked the Kytes road across Mandathivu. Not more than 3Km’s from Jaffna we spotted a flock of Flamingoes but all our efforts to capture them on image weren’t successful. They seem to be so shy that even we were few Km’s away they would fly far away. Along the road we came across many species of ducks mainly. We captured them effortlessly while traveling to Velanei. After getting to Velanei and sipping some Palmyra toddy we headed towards the famous Chatty beach.

Chatty beach was so calm and quiet on that particular day and we enjoyed a good one hour bath. After having lunch at Velanei we went to Kytes and took the AB19 road to enjoy a duck fiesta.

beauty of lagoons

beauty of lagoons

still a sleep

still a sleep

glimpse of Flemingoes

glimpse of Flemingoes

huge prawn

huge prawn

finally captured one

finally captured one

grey heron

grey heron

a flock

a flock

Black headed gull

Black headed gull

Asian Open Bil

Asian Open Bil

black headed ibis

black headed ibis

 Little Ringed Plover

Little Ringed Plover

spoonbill

spoonbill

ah there they are!

ah there they are!

can you count them

can you count them

Northern Pintail

Northern Pintail

lovely

lovely

painted stalk

painted stalk

Eurasian Curlew

Eurasian Curlew

Ashy Wood Swallows

Ashy Wood Swallows

 a Brahmin kyte

a Brahmin kyte

Wood Sandpiper

Wood Sandpiper

northern shoveler

northern shoveler

northern shoveler female

northern shoveler female

Black Winged Stilt..

Black Winged Stilt..

lot of ducks

lot of ducks

flying away

flying away

 lonely guy

lonely guy

Spot billed duck

Spot billed duck

 bit of land

bit of land

populated

populated

Gargeny

Gargeny

Wigions

Wigions

you know these guys

you know these guys

and more

and more

close up

close up

Northern Pintail

Northern Pintail

 pelicans

pelicans

indian rollar

indian rollar

paddy at velanei

paddy at velanei

 tobacco

tobacco

chatty beach

chatty beach

calm oceans

calm oceans

enjoying the bath

enjoying the bath

Fort Hammenhil  seen from kaytes jetty

Fort Hammenhil seen from kaytes jetty

 the colours

the colours

 wow

wow

more landscape

more landscape

mode of transport

mode of transport

Day two was a magical one; the sun rise we witnessed from AB19 was the best I have ever witnessed. The oceans were like on fire and shining like gold. We did enjoy every moment we witnessed that morning. Next it was all about cave hunting. After seen Dhammika’s post on lakdasun I was tempted to explore a huge unknown limestone cave complex close to Vallvettithurai. On our way we did step in to Rajamanthris mansion too (for details on that refer this trip report). The Point pedro road was through paddy cultivations and was a dreamily ride. After reaching Thondimanaru we had breakfast and took off towards Kerudavil village where we met a friendly local chap who showed us the way to “Periya Mandapakadu”( 9°49’15.49″N   80° 8’40.46″E).

This cave which is located in Kerudavil villege was one of the best places I have been to. It’s just like a crater and from that crater a huge “Siyambala” tree rises up providing a roof to it. There were many cave openings in it and Amila did manage to explore one of those by crawling. This is an amazing masterpiece of Mother Nature which one needs to visit. After getting out of it we searched for “Sinna Madapakadu” but the efforts were in vein.

After the cave expedition we crossed Thondaimanaru and headed towards KKS but at many instances we had to back track because we reached the boundaries of the high security zone. Tough we were disappointed with all those restrictions we were also pleased to take alternative routes through rural Jaffna and witness how people cultivate. These people are courageous not like some who cry for everything and request the government to help them. These hard working people with blessed fertile soil do wonders in this deserted peninsula and we were lucky to witness it.

here she comes

here she comes

perfect shot

perfect shot

livelihood

livelihood

from here onwards its just a big woooow

from here onwards its just a big woooow

golden oceans

golden oceans

what a sight

what a sight

more

more

a wallpaper

a wallpaper

Poothathamby Arch

Poothathamby Arch

Rajamanthri mansion

Rajamanthri mansion

transport service jaffna style

transport service jaffna style

onions

onions

 natural art

natural art

on the way to PPD

on the way to PPD

 paddy at PPD

paddy at PPD

Periya mandakam cave complex is near this tree

Periya mandakam cave complex is near this tree

entrance

entrance

 a big wow

a big wow

inside the cave

inside the cave

a tunnel

a tunnel

friends

friends

 plenty of room

plenty of room

more chambers

more chambers

 exploring

exploring

 the tree

the tree

 lovely roof

lovely roof

an opening

an opening

they were shy

they were shy

his smile

his smile

hard working people

hard working people

lovely oceans

lovely oceans

 triple cycle

triple cycle

working under the sun

working under the sun

more onion cultivations

more onion cultivations

beet and potato

beet and potato

only in jaffna

only in jaffna

Our next target was Keerimalei snake cave but again we were told that it lies in the high security zone. We had to contemplate ourselves by visiting a small lime stone cave in front of Naguleshwaran kovil ( 9°48’39.73″N   80° 0’46.72″E). Next we wanted to have a bath a Casuarina beach at Karainagar but instead of the regular place we decided to try out a new place. There was another casuarina beach marked on Google maps and we headed that way to try it out. It was a lonely and lovely beach but there was a small problem, to reach the calm and shallow waters one needs to cross a 10m dead coral reef. We did cross it and enjoyed the new found location before we returned back to Jaffna for a lovely sun set. That night we got in to Colombo bus and headed towards Colombo because there was a Eli hatha expedition around the corner..

Entrance to keerimale cave

Entrance to keerimale cave

 inside it

inside it

 the roof

the roof

capturing

capturing

Kareinagar

Kareinagar

New Casurina beach

New Casurina beach

lonely beach

lonely beach

sea weed

sea weed

what we found

what we found

he was having problems with lighting his "beedi"

he was having problems with lighting his “beedi”

Tamusela koheda????

Tamusela koheda????

 time for a sunset

time for a sunset

wow

wow

there she goes

there she goes


Visit to Streepura- Hideout of “Anthapura” of King Walagamba and “Kamani “ Falls- Doloswala Kanda

$
0
0
Year and Month January, 2015
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 9 (between 28-45 years of age)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Hired Van (Nissan Caravan) / Jeep
Activities Waterfall hunting, Archeological sighting, Photography
Weather Excellent
Route Nivithigala -> Doloswala Kanda -> Pitakele(via stone ladder) -> Streepura -> Pitakele -> Doloswala Kanda( via stone stairway) and return on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • If planning to spend time exploring Streepura, need leech protection as we found them on walls and few managed to stick to our scalps…
  • Need a guide to find the path to Streepura though one will find tea patches close to it………
  • Not for very young or elderly as one need to climb down along roots of stone wall to get to Streepura….
Author Malithkum
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

For a change,This one I planned as a combination of targets. Following are my targets for the day.

  1. Visit to Unknown “Kamani” Falls of Doloswala Kanda
  2. Climbing up Pitakele via “Stone ladder”
  3. Visit to Streepura @ Pitakele
  4. Climbing down to Doloswala Kanda via Stone staircase

Though I have mentioned them separately, above places are situated in close proximity within few kms radius.
First, a brief description about Kamani Falls…..
This is an unknown hidden beauty found in Doloswala Kanda area few meters from foot path to Pitakele from Doloswala Kanda….. It is roughly 30 feets in height and has three main sections. Amount of water is less now a day as there is a diversion for mini hydro plant. The name “Kamani” which some people in Doloswala unheard of given after a 16 year old girl committed suicide by jumping from the top of the fall few years back.

Top part of “Kamani” Falls….

Top part of “Kamani” Falls….

Whole package….

Whole package….

Top part zoomed….

Top part zoomed….

After enjoying this beauty we started next phase of our hike-stone ladder…. In early days there was no proper road to travel to Pitakele, so people with the help of the government built two ways of travelling to Pitakele. On method is Stone ladder. Other method is Stone stair case. We decided to reach Pitakele via stone ladder. Early days as in Sri Pada, series of ladders were placed to conquer the Doloswala Mountain. But at present ladders were replaced by concrete bars which are fixed to the stone wall without any pillars to support.

Concrete stepping stones…

Concrete stepping stones…

Climbing up….

Climbing up….

Within one hour we reached Pitakele. As it situated on top of Doloswala Kanda the view was superb……. We were able to appreciate stunning view of the surrounding areas….

Sri Pada...

Sri Pada…

Karawita mountain range….

Karawita mountain range….

Kiribathgala mountain….was there one month back….

Kiribathgala mountain….was there one month back….

Walankanda range….

Walankanda range….

Tiriwanaketiya-Agalawatta road(between Nivithigala and Kalawana)….

Tiriwanaketiya-Agalawatta road(between Nivithigala and Kalawana)….

One end of the Nivithigala town….….

One end of the Nivithigala town….….

We went in search of our next target The Streepura….. It is situated between Pitakele and Pabotuwa… It is said to be one of the hide out of Anthapura of King Walagamba during difficult times…. It is said to be a complex of tunnels and underground hideouts. At present only entrances for this tunnel complexes remain intact…. Aside from the historic value the natural beauty of this hide out is breath taking……

@ one of the entrance….

@ one of the entrance….

Side wall near entrance….

Side wall near entrance….

High walls….

High walls….

Well protected..….

Well protected..….

Myself getting down….

Myself getting down….

High roof..….

High roof..….

Inside the Streepura….

Inside the Streepura….

After the visit to Streepura, we got down to Doloswala Kanda via the stone stair way which has more than 500 steps..

Steps….

Steps….

Camping in the paradise (Hapugastenna Trail to Adam’s Peak)

$
0
0
Year and Month February, 2014
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 5 (between 25-30 years of age)
Accommodation
  • Short stay at Samanalee shop near Gangulathenna.
  • Short stay at Chooti mama’s shop near Ehala kanuwa (Rathnapura path)
  • Camping near the waterfall in Hapugasthenna trail
Transport Bus, Dimo batta and of course on foot
Activities Pilgrimage, Sceneries, Photography, Adventure
Weather Cloudy but beautiful
Route Colombo -> Maskeliya -> Nallathanniya -> Hattan-Nallathanni trail to Adams peak ->Hapugasthenna trail -> Hapugasthenna state -> Rathnapura -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water for drinking purpose.
  • Wear attire as to cover your hands and legs to avoid torn scratches
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Carry food items if you are planning to camp in the jungle

**Special Thanks to**  Chathuranga for helping us with a map, giving us necessary information and specially encouraging us.

Related Resources
Author Danu1
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It took me about 25 years to make my mind to first climb the Adams peak. But when I did, I realized that only the first part of the old saying is true. (Nogiya ekath modaya, desarayak giya ekath modaya). After trying out Hatton, Rathnapura, Kuruwita and Maliboda trails within just 4 months, I was wondering whether there is any other route to Adams peak. But I didn’t have to wonder much as I found Chathuranga’s article about Hapugasthenna trail in footpath.lk. However it looked like a difficult and challengeable trail for a not so often hiker like me. Finally, surprise, Chathuranga joined the company I work and we were in the same team. So how can I not try out that trail when the hero of the story is in the same team?

After endless discussions about when to go, what to eat, whether we need to carry a gas cooker etc etc, we finally decided to go on just before a long weekend in February 2014 carrying bread, a homemade curry and a couple of Samaposha packets but nothing else (honestly we even forgot to carry sugar and coconut to mix Samaposha with :D).

The journey

After meeting at Pettah bus stand around 5.30 am, we’ve taken the bus to Maskeliya and then from Maskeliya to Nallathanni. We reached Nallathanni around 1 pm. Since it is a beginning of a long weekend, signs showed that there will be a huge crowed by night. After reaching Gangulathenna, we stayed in the Samanalee hotel which is owned by a very good friend of us. After having couple of rotties, we went to the Seethagangula stream which can be found 50m away from the back of the Samanalee hotel and had a good, freezing bath.

We decided to start our journey a bit earlier than planned before as the route became more crowded by every second. Once we reached Indikatu pana, we decided to take the short cut to Rathnapura route to climb the rest.

The route

The route – Click Map to Enlarge

View of the Adam’s peak from Gangulathenna

View of the Adam’s peak from Gangulathenna

Sumana Saman dewalaya – Uda maluwa

Sumana Saman dewalaya – Uda maluwa

The last shop in the Rathnapura route run by two former care takers of uda maluwa during off season were very welcoming as expected. They have provided us with Rotty, sambol and a lot of information about the Hapugasthenna route and stories around it. From them, we got to know that the path was cleared very recently by villagers which reduce much of our worries about getting lost in the jungle.

The descend from the starting point of the footpath to base of Adam’s peak was endless hence felt like we were reaching Hapugasthenna plantation in a one go. We met the main feeder stream of baththalu oya in the base of Adam’s peak where we had Rotti and sambol for breakfast.  Once we passed the base, we had to climb for about 400m-500m till we met a flat section.

All our tiredness and pain had gone away once we came to the Paradise (that was the name given by Chathuranga and the gang in footpath.lk and we agreed too).

The camp site was safer as it was a bit above the stream but we had to move rocks and dug to level the site. After managing to level the site to put up both the tents, we started making a fire. The most amazing and miracle thing we observed was no matter how fresh or wet the wood is, it lights up with one blow.

It was a paradise by any mean. Icy cold crystal clear water was deep enough to have a dip, flowers, many cascades and beautiful weather made it a paradise.

Red circle – Water pump room just above the last shop in Rathnapura trail Red arrow – Hapugasthenna foot path

Red circle – Water pump room just above the last shop in Rathnapura trail
Red arrow – Hapugasthenna foot path

Heaven

Heaven

Entering into the endless jungle

Entering into the endless jungle

Samith with the goPro

Samith with the goPro

The footpath goes through the twin trees

The footpath goes through the twin trees

Base of Adam’s peak – main/longest feeder stream of Baththalu oya

Base of Adam’s peak – main/longest feeder stream of Baththalu oya

A very different view of the Adam’s peak

A very different view of the Adam’s peak

A very different view of the Adam’s peak

A very different view of the Adam’s peak

Climb up for about 400m-500m

Climb up for about 400m-500m

First to arrive, more to relax

First to arrive, more to relax

Main water fall in the paradise

Main water fall in the paradise

Main water fall in the paradise

Main water fall in the paradise

Our camp site

Our camp site

Since it was not flat enough to sleep in the small tent, we kept all our bags inside it and slept in the bigger tent.

Since it was not flat enough to sleep in the small tent, we kept all our bags inside it and slept in the bigger tent.

Boiling water to make tea – lit up in one blow though the surrounding was so wet.

Boiling water to make tea – lit up in one blow though the surrounding was so wet.

Samaposha mixed with chocolate

Samaposha mixed with chocolate

Good morning Paradise

Good morning Paradise

Small waterfall near the swimming pool

Small waterfall near the swimming pool

Feeding the swimming pool

Feeding the swimming pool

Jump?

Jump?

Yes, jump

Yes, jump

Good bye Paradise

Good bye Paradise

Better than a concrete road

Better than a concrete road

Did you see the human like face?

Did you see the human like face?

Small tree with nothing inside

Small tree with nothing inside

How small you think? haha

How small you think? haha

Wondering in the jungle

Wondering in the jungle

Not for so long as there were many signs

Not for so long as there were many signs

Beautiful jungle

Beautiful jungle

Beautiful jungle

Beautiful jungle

The highway

The highway

Walking in the highway

Walking in the highway

Green it was

Green it was

Obstacles

Obstacles

Rooted footpath

Rooted footpath

No words to explain the beauty of the jungle

No words to explain the beauty of the jungle

Resting in Ramagala?

Resting in Ramagala?

More obstacles

More obstacles

Green

Green

More green

More green

Welakkara galge

Welakkara galge

Somarathna ambalama

Somarathna ambalama

Rath ganaga

Rath ganaga

Sunset in Hapugasthenna plantation

Sunset in Hapugasthenna plantation

Dimo butta

Dimo butta

It’s a must do trek for adventure and nature lovers. But do not forget that you enter into a verging forest hence leave nothing but the foot prints. If you are not a regular hiker, it would be easier if you climb down from Adam’s peak. Prepare well, collect information and HAPPY TREKKING.

Thanks for reading.

So Close, Yet So Far – Tour de Waterfalls 16…

$
0
0
Year and Month 30-31 Dec, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew Morgan and Me
Accommodation Morgan’s Place
Transport By Bus, on foot and by train
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Gloomy and a slight drizzle on the first day and Excellent on the second day.
Route Maharagama->Avissawella->Hatton->Talawakele->Great Western->Nanu Oya->Nuwara Eliya->Boralanda->Nuwara Eliya->Nanu Oya->Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    1. Leech protection is recommended.
    2. Rainy season is the idea time to visit even though it’d be hard to travel and take pics.
    3. The Hatton-Nuwara Eliya Road is nearly finished so travelling along that is no problem.
    4. Avoid trying to bathe in the waterfalls, especially when the water levels are high.
    5. To get to the base of the top part of Glassaugh Falls, you have to walk along the road up passing Nanu Oya Falls then cross the railway.
    6. By walking along the railway from Nanu Oya about 1.5-2km towards Raddella, you can clearly see the Nanu Oya Upper Falls and the mid-section of Glassaugh Falls.
    7. Morgan is the ideal companion to his house is good enough for 4-6 people to stay. There’s only one room though so it’ll have to mainly be guys only.
    8. Carry water and some snacks with you but bring back the wrappings and bottles.
    9. Check the Video Journey here.
    10. Protect the Nature and don’t litter.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The rains continued unabated throughout the country wreaking havoc. The ordinary lifestyles were shot to hell and back. Most people lost their lives, property leaving only what they wore and much more. Three quarters of the country came to a standstill as a result. Everyone was affected regardless of their status. At least Mother Nature hasn’t forgotten the rule of equity, treating everyone alike. Something for us to think about when we’ve nowhere to go. The reservoirs were filled to the brim making the authorities open the spill gates. While many people suffered from the adversity, few people, like me, took advantage of the unexpectedly arrived rains. So hunting waterfalls was intensified.

After the journey to Mandaram Nuwara and then to Victoria & Randenigala, I was feeling lonely and jittery. I’m sure Hariya would have thought differently but couldn’t ignore the proverb, “make hay while sun shines”. Watching TV was an agony, and news only managed to rouse the adventurer in me showing all the overflowing reservoirs, tanks and waterfalls. When they showed St. Claire in full flow, my heart not only missed just one beat, but quite a few. How wonderful even to see her come alive on TV. I was craving for the big moment. The news once again showed that the spills of wretched Upper Kotmale Reservoir were open so I could wait no longer. The next morning I called Morgan, and found out St. Claire was really blooming.

Day 01

I didn’t need a second invitation, getting ready hurriedly I was out of the house like a bullet and informed Morgan of my imminent arrival. The bus didn’t move fast enough as I kept shifting about the seat itching for one of the long-awaited moments in my life.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Devon Falls, Pathana.
  2. Pathana Ella, Pathana.
  3. St. Claire Falls, Thalawakele.
  4. Thalawakele Ella, Thalawakele.
  5. Rama Bhajan, Great Western.
  6. Nanu Oya Bridge Falls & Nanu Oya Ella, Nanu Oya.
  7. Glassaugh Falls, Nanu Oya.
  8. Lovers’ Leap, Hawa Eliya.
  9. Galwala Ella, Hawa Eliya.
  10. Glen Falls, Nuwara Eliya.

Devon Falls

I know now you’re beginning to groan. I’ve shown you this lady before, quite a few times but what can I do when she gets all dressed up and give me her beautiful smile? Everytime is different from the ones before. Maybe my eyes playing tricks on me but I can’t help it. There was a mist spread out very thinly before her giving me a flirtatious look.

Well, I’ll just let you look at a few pictures without me bragging about her beauty.

Devon Bungalow

Devon Bungalow

Tea center at Devon viewing point

Tea center at Devon viewing point

Close up

Close up

Devon with a thin layer of mist in front

Devon with a thin layer of mist in front

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Water level is healthy

Water level is healthy

Portrait

Portrait

The top

The top

And the bottom

And the bottom

Pathana Ella

Oh hello, where did you spring from? This is someone I’ve been eyeing for a long time. When we were walking from Nanu Oya to Talawakele, we could see another waterfall before Devon Falls closes to the Devon Cabanas. She was more prominent during our Nawalapitiya to Pundaluoya waterfall tour as well. However everytime she eluded our prying eyes. Even this time she would have done the same hadn’t I been walking from Devon to St. Claire. After the photo shootout with the Devon Falls, I decided to walk towards the St. Claire, something I’d always wanted to do.

Walking helped me do two things. 1. I got the chance to see the full package of St. Claire. That’s something many people miss. Most of us stop by the viewing platform and enjoy the Niagara like upper section without bothering too much about the lower part barely visible. If you look at her from the railway line, you will get a better view of the lower part but not the whole thing. There is this little stretch along the road for about 50m (passing Devon walking towards Talawakele, you’ll see a hotel to your left, still being built I guess. From here you can view her beautifully) where you can clearly see the full falls, both top and bottom. However, the extreme left corner of the wider upper part is not very well visible. You are gonna get a front row seat for that show in a short while. So get your cola and the popcorn handy.

Looking at St. Claire is like undergoing hypnosis therapy. You simply block out the rest of your surrounding concentrating solely on her. Today was no exception but for some lucky stroke, I could barely see the top of this waterfall and my brain tapped a few keys bringing back the stored away file on her. Now don’t you get the wrong idea about this particular file?

So after the show with St. Claire (I’ll come to her next) I started walking along the estate road that runs parallel to the main road but at a lower level. The turn off to this is at the hotel I mentioned above, about 100m from Devon. There’s even set of stairs should you miss the turn off, about 50m further towards Talawakele (this is the stretch to view St. Claire fully so I too took the stairs) that would bring you down to the estate road which is in good condition.

Walking down you will notice the Devon cabanas to your left. Just go on for about a couple hundred meters and you will see this beautiful fall to your right starting under a bridge then falling in three main sections before hitting the base. To get a better and frontal view, just get up to the tea estate infested with leeches during the showery season. I didn’t mind the blood suckers so got up and saw how gorgeous a girlie she is. Morgan called me having come to the St. Claire viewing point and after a short stay; I jumped onto the road and waved down a tuk-tuk to my destiny. This of course gave me the chance to take out nearly a dozen leeches that were digging into my socks. St. Claire, here I come.

The path below the A6 through the tea patch

The path below the A6 through the tea patch

Here it is

Here it is

There she is

There she is

Can see the main road and the bridge too

Can see the main road and the bridge too

The center mass

The center mass

Lower part

Lower part

The base pool

The base pool

Getting through the tea estate towards the center mass

Getting through the tea estate towards the center mass

There she is framed by turpentine trees

There she is framed by turpentine trees

The portrait

The portrait

Upper part

Upper part

The middle

The middle

There's the lower segment

There’s the lower segment

St. Claire Falls

I reached the point and met ever so cheerful Morgan. However my mind became numb when I saw St. Claire. Where was all that water? She was back to her dried up self, but the water levels were a little better, especially when I saw the bottom part closer to Devon, very much like the Dunhinda. Apart from that, the upper section was in the same dismal state but I couldn’t stop looking at her and taking a few dozen pictures.

Oh St. Claire, I’m disappointed once again but nothing will discourage me from seeing you again. I’ll wait be waiting for the moment when you’re in full flow, even if it takes the rest of my life. Feeling very sad, we headed into the Pundaluoya road where there is a short cut that goes to the Great Western tea factory.

View from the main road close to Devon

View from the main road close to Devon

Closing in

Closing in

Relatively more water

Relatively more water

The last bit of water

The last bit of water

The lower part usually goes unnoticed by many

The lower part usually goes unnoticed by many

The full package from the distance

The full package from the distance

See the difference in the water level

See the difference in the water level

Dismal looking St. Claire

Dismal looking St. Claire

The cables ruining the pic

The cables ruining the pic

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Resumed train services up to Nanu Oya

Resumed train services up to Nanu Oya

Thalawakele Ella

This is when I saw yet again a waterfall close to the railway crossing. This is the same Kotmale Oya flowing before joining the reservoir. Getting out of the tuk-tuk, I walked along the railway line and came to this beauty.

She is not a very tall and long-legged one but a short and a slightly rotund girl. Sliding down across a wider rocky area creating many small cascades was a sight to enjoy. Well, time was going on, so far the rain mysteriously kept away for the first time in a about a week. It’d been continuously raining so hard and Morgan claimed this was a day sent right from the heaven. We got back in the tuk-tuk and took the badly damaged road to his house.

There she is

There she is

Sliding along and jumping from rock layer to another

Sliding along and jumping from rock layer to another

Similar to steps-like Nanu Oya Ella

Similar to steps-like Nanu Oya Ella

Close up

Close up

Wide view

Wide view

Railway towards Watagoda

Railway towards Watagoda

The legendary Great Western Mountain was towering the whole area but she refused flatly to show herself. The thick cover of mist hung lovingly around here head and shoulders not revealing much. Yet under the curtain I felt her smile with me. This is where my life of traveling took off like a spacecraft and continuing its relentless journey exploring to date (check out the Great Western Hike). So she’s someone who is very dear to my heart.

Having arrived at Morgan’s place and meet his two sons felt good. I guess it was me and Prince who stayed at his house first. Since then he’d had a lot of visitors wanting to climb this mighty mountain. Some of them even had stayed at his house. Just a quick word on the accommodation at his place. He now has a room free should any visitors come along. Four people can sleep in it, but can squeeze in a couple more. He provides meals which are very cheap but excellent. I’m sure anyone who is going there will enjoy his company. After a quick cup of coffee we set off towards the station, mainly to see the mountain in the evening. The sky kept gloomy throughout but towards the afternoon there was a bit of sunshine, maybe to bless my arrival.

Morgan said that there was nothing but continuous rain for the last couple of months, especially the last week with no sun whatsoever. However, I was spared the trouble from the moment I left home as not a hint of rain was in the way. We walked along the wet railway line reliving the past. It was great to be there once again and the chill was beginning to set in. The train services which had been temporarily halted in the upcountry line till Rambukkana, had started from today (another blessing from my arrival, now don’t be annoyed at me being boastful) up to Nanu Oya. There was a major earth slip at Ambewela washing away the ground beneath the track as long as some 80ft. There had been a few others around Ella making the life so difficult for the railway department.

It’s not only the railway department that has suffered but hundreds of people who depend on the train were also affected. Among those are the vendors such as Morgan who make their living thanks to the train. For the past week, those had suffered a lot living with bare minimum as their income came to an abrupt still. Now the train is running up to Nanu Oya, hopefully it’ll get back to normal soon. After a walk around the station, we reached the safety of Morgan’s and had a hot bath. The dinner was delicious Thosai with Chicken and Dhal Curry. Morgan kept marveling at the fact that it didn’t rain giving the full credit to me, I felt like the Rain God.

Getting closer to Morgan's

Getting closer to Morgan’s

Kissable Great Western over the roof

Kissable Great Western over the roof

There she is hiding behind the mist

There she is hiding behind the mist

Such a beauty

Such a beauty

Towards the station

Towards the station

Came on the way to Nanu Oya

Came on the way to Nanu Oya

Having a nice chat

Having a nice chat

Good old Great Western station, where I started my traveling fiesta

Good old Great Western station, where I started my traveling fiesta

Poor fellow, note the left hind leg is gone

Poor fellow, note the left hind leg is gone

An amazing place

An amazing place

Morgan's son got a puzzle as to what to choose

Morgan’s son got a puzzle as to what to choose

Father observing son's work

Father observing son’s work

Dinner ready

Dinner ready

Rama Bhajan

We got back home and had a hot bath thanks to Morgan. It revived my tired limbs after an exciting day. After a delicious Thosai dinner while I was lolling in the comfortable settee, Morgan came and told that there’s something called “Rama Bhajan” happening around the village and soon they’ll visit his place. I was curious as this is yet another Tamil custom unknown to us. I got my camera ready and was waiting impatiently for the group to appear while Morgan told me what this really was.

This is a custom usually starts one month before the Thaipongal Festival usually falls in Jan. As this time it was on 15 Jan, the customary preparations had started on 15 Dec. The kids of the village (not all, only the willing ones) go to the Kovil at the start of the period. They’ll remain there for the rest of the time until the Thaipongal Festival. These kids and even their families remain fully vegetarian throughout the period. During the time, the kids visit the neighborhood, singing these rhythmic poetic songs which are called “Rama Bhajan”. The villagers treat them with food and drinks. Some even give some money which goes to the Kovil’s fund.

When they visited the place, I was fully ready with my camera. Morgan and his family kept an oil lamp on the porch with some ash. There was a bunch of kids at various ages probably between 6 and 16. They were signing the Rama Bhajan loudly (I managed to take a short video as well) and were carrying two pictures of the gods. It was an extraordinary experience.

Blowing on the conch shell

Blowing on the conch shell

The religious rituals

The religious rituals

The boys carrying the pics and statues

The boys carrying the pics and statues

Close up of them

Close up of them

There's the gang

There’s the gang

Enjoy the Video of Rama Bhajan.

The cold was creeping in when I settled comfortably under the blankets. Surprisingly there were a few mosquitoes hovering around singing their awful songs at me trying to take a poke at me. The half-inch thick blanket was too much for them to handle and after a few failed attempts, they left for an easy prey. The sleep enveloped me while my thoughts still were with St. Claire. Gosh, ain’t I ever gonna see her in full flow again?

Day 02

My alarm went off at 6am but I had beaten it and was listening for any sign of the rain as it was threatening menacingly to pour down. I wasn’t worried though as it was not much I had planned for the day. There wasn’t a good deal of walking and what I had planned could have managed with an umbrella with no problem always the winds kept in check. I got up to find the morning rays streaming through the window. The household was still quiet save for Morgan’s wife busy in the kitchen. I opened the front door and there it was right in front of me. Today is the last of 2014, it dawned on me out of nowhere. And the sky was royal blue with a few patches of white clouds. The sun was shining in full force as if compensating for the past week. The leaves were very still meaning no hint of wind. I couldn’t have asked for anything better and while I was enjoying the warmth Morgan joined me exclaiming I had brought with me the long lost sun.

We could see the gorgeous Great Western Mountain through the branches from his garden, showing herself and looking very serene and beautiful as ever. I was impatient for a better look and had a wash in the ice cold water (well I simply didn’t care one way or the other) and got dressed. I simply ran out of the house while Morgan kept up with me till the railway line. What awaited me simply took my breath away.

She had put on a new green wrap and had pushed the mist away. The sun that rose above the mountains towards Nanu Oya and beyond bathed her with golden rays. The picture was simply perfect. We inhaled the fresh mountain air deeply feeling the scent of the washed trees and grass mixed with soil. The Lion’s Rock where the Singamalai Tunnel, the longest in Sri Lanka with over half kilometer in length, is rising to the sky. To her right faintly visible amid the fog was sacred Sri Pada Mountain. My morning became a whole lot better after seeing that. Just to adding something to the lion’s rock. Even though we all know that this is called the lion’s rock (Singamalai = Singam + Malai in Tamil giving the same meaning), I met one of the railway officials, an engine driver to be exact another time, who claimed this is also called the Duke’s Nose. He further revealed that was mentioned in one of the old English articles he had come across.

According to the article, the shape of the rock gives the impression of it being similar to a nose of someone in the upper echelon, thus the name Duke’s Nose. Interesting things we come across.

It was simply amazing and while I was enjoying the view, everyone in the nearby villages got busy putting their wet clothes out to dry. For a whole week, they hadn’t been able to do that.  Morgan got a call saying the morning goods train from Nawalapitiya to Nanu Oya was on the way so we hurried to have our breakfast and be back to the station. The day was beginning with everything I could have wished but let’s see how it is as the day wears off.

Good morning lady!

Good morning lady!

Riding lessons

Riding lessons

Playful dogs

Playful dogs

Circus time

Circus time

Morning rays lighting the GW, can you see the rainbow?

Morning rays lighting the GW, can you see the rainbow?

No sign of a train

No sign of a train

Clearer view

Clearer view

Our train to Nanu Oya

Our train to Nanu Oya

Nanu Oya Bridge Falls & Nanu Oya Ella

After a hearty breakfast we got back to the station having bid farewell to Morgan’s family. The train arrived few minutes after 8.30am we we got on board. The Great Western looked sensual in the morning and I was craning my neck out of the window to see her. This was an amazing sight. Reaching Radella, I saw the Radella Falls just passing the station at the bridge. There was more water compared to last time but no way of taking a good picture. I managed only a pot shot through the moving train.

We reached Nanu Oya around 9am and left walked back along the railway to the Nanu Oya Ella but not before taking a long range sniper shot at the upper Glassaugh Falls in the extreme distance. The station was quiet unlike other 31 Dec when it’s bustling with passengers. Only a handful of locals were there another we walked on. Passing the bridge we turned into the left side road that goes downhill. However I stopped to inspect the falls under the bridge that goes unnoticed by many but the increased flow of water called us for attention. She was beautiful and having slid along the rocky surface, suddenly fell into a deep recess making a nice little falls. Thus giving her the name Nanu Oya Bridge Falls. I wanted to get down the slope and get a better picture as there were the inevitable tree cover but it seemed too dangerous. So feeling impatient to see Nanu Oya Falls, we went further downhill.

Passing the tea factory to our left, we turned to our right and whoa, the sight of this falling beauty made me stop in my tracks fumbling for the camera. The increase in the water level was plain to see as she danced down the steps before running under the bridge making another big cascade visible from the tea patch further up the road among thick foliage which we came about while going to see the Glassaugh Falls.

I enjoyed the sight especially the black bridge overhead adding color and contrast to the background. We were lucky to get a glimpse of the S12 passing overhead last time we visited this (Watch the Video) but this time no such luck as the number of trains running were few and far between. How many of you have seen or at least known that there are two more sections of the Nanu Oya Ella up the tea patch beyond the bridge? To see that, you have to walk along the railway and you’ll see the extreme top part and the mid-section by the bridge but getting down to them are tricky but not impossible. However the sight from the bridge was very good so we didn’t have to get down.

Having spent a long time we continued along the road to the lower part of Glassaugh Falls that is only a few meters ahead.

Giving the signal

Giving the signal

Taken from the moving train, very picturesque

Taken from the moving train, very picturesque

Another

Another

Radella Falls

Radella Falls

Nanu Oya station

Nanu Oya station

Glassaugh Falls zoomed from the station

Glassaugh Falls zoomed from the station

Walking backwards

Walking backwards

The bridge before the station

The bridge before the station

Engineering marvels

Engineering marvels

Here's Nanu Oya Bridge Falls

Here’s Nanu Oya Bridge Falls

Plenty of water

Plenty of water

Front view

Front view

Closer look

Closer look

Another

Another

Not possible to get to the base

Not possible to get to the base

The view is blocked by the trees

The view is blocked by the trees

Glassaugh Estate factory

Glassaugh Estate factory

There's Nanu Oya Ella

There’s Nanu Oya Ella

The bridge above, the upper part can be seen from the bridge

The bridge above, the upper part can be seen from the bridge

Lot of water

Lot of water

The road goes in front

The road goes in front

Too much sun

Too much sun

There you go

There you go

Steps

Steps

Religious beliefs

Religious beliefs

Morgan waiting for me

Morgan waiting for me

Glassaugh Falls

Glassaugh Falls has three distinguishing parts. The lowest is only a few meters from the Nanu Oya Ella right by the estate road. From here you can see the top and mid sections as well but not clear enough. Similar to the Nanu Oya Ella, there is an overhead bridge but not so visible. You can see the mid segment from the bridge if you walk along the railway line which we did.

The lower section, that was nothing but a tiny trickle down last time, was flowing beautifully this time thanks to all the rains. After the rituals, we went uphill where the road circles and meet the railway line. Last time we did the rail hike, we went on the same road and as a result missed out the stretch between and those two bridges overhead and the upper parts of the falls. However this time I managed to make it up for the lost 500-600m on the track with some stunning parts of the falls.

Coming up to the railway, we crossed and went further up the road another 100-150m till we came to the Nanu Oya Tamil School. The road goes to the left of the school but there is a typical estate road not used much branching to the right in front of the school. You will see two large solar panels as well. There’s a short cut that will cut down the length by half which we took on the return journey. Soon as you cross the railway line, there is a set cement steps that goes uphill through the tea estate joining with the same road I mentioned before. We walked along the road full of slippery green moss that was scary to walk on. We could see the surrounding being washed down by the hot rays of the newly risen sun as if to renew the world after the great washout.

300-400m will bring you to the top and the most notable part of the Glassaugh Falls that is close to 50ft in height and wide maybe 20+ft. We enjoyed the company for some time before going back this time taking the shorter path back to the railway track. Walking along we first reached the Glassaugh Falls Bridge with the mid part to our left falling sexily. The top part too was visible but not the whole package. We walked further finding the Nanu Oya Ella Bridge and like the Glassaugh Falls Bridge, we saw the upper parts of the Nanu Oya Ella to the left. There is a small top part and a larger mid-section close to each other. The pictures of them are given above under the sub heading Nanu Oya Ella.

Within a km or so, there are three large railway bridges in this part showing what it must have been like to build the upcountry line. They built those bridges to last long and strong.  Even after a century or so, they are still standing proudly telling us about the engineering marvels of the good old days while modern ones fall apart at the slightest disturbance. We walked back to the station and then onto the road looking for a bus to get to another place close to me, Nuwara Eliya. I tend to get the chance to visit her even for a brief period close to the end of every year.

Lower most part

Lower most part

Closer

Closer

Another

Another

Clearer shot

Clearer shot

Glassaugh falls below the bridge along the road

Glassaugh falls below the bridge along the road

Closer

Closer

Factory

Factory

Closer view

Closer view

We crossed the railway line and started going uphill

We crossed the railway line and started going uphill

These were at the Nanu Oya Tamil School, turn towards them

These were at the Nanu Oya Tamil School, turn towards them

Here's the slippery path

Here’s the slippery path

What a view

What a view

Morgan beat me to it

Morgan beat me to it

Sensational, ain't she?

Sensational, ain’t she?

Awesome

Awesome

Top

Top

Bottom

Bottom

From the front

From the front

Wide angle

Wide angle

Morgan posing

Morgan posing

Side view

Side view

Walking towards the bridges

Walking towards the bridges

The first where the middle of Glassaugh Falls is to the left

The first where the middle of Glassaugh Falls is to the left

Here she is

Here she is

The upper part zoomed from there

The upper part zoomed from there

Portrait

Portrait

The part that falls under the bridge

The part that falls under the bridge

Close up

Close up

The second one where the Nanu Oya Ella is

The second one where the Nanu Oya Ella is

Upper part

Upper part

Upper most segment

Upper most segment

And the other

And the other

Down she goes

Down she goes

Towards Glassaugh Falls from the road over the station

Towards Glassaugh Falls from the road over the station

Lovers’ Leap Falls

We reached Nuwara Eliya around 11am. Getting off at the temple we could see the Glen Falls in the distance over the Grand Hotel and the buildings around. She has also become seasonal with a height around 30ft now was active thanks to the rains. We didn’t stop to enjoy her as we were pressed for time. We might get a chance for a sniper shot on our way back. The main Nuwara Eliya-Welimada-Badulla Road had caved in close to Gregory Lake cutting off the traffic. The vehicles were rerouted through the Kandapola Road. On any other time in Dec, especially the 31st, Nuwara Eliya would be chaotic with thousands of tourists wandering around in groups wrapped up in their multi-colored sweaters talking nonstop shooting with their cameras but this Dec 31st was something entirely different. Nuwara Eliya was like a ghost town, the streets were empty, apart from the locals who were doing the last minute shopping, and there were only a handful of tourists about. We had this irresistible city pretty much for ourselves thanks to the landslides and heavy rains. According to the locals, Nuwara Eliya was almost cut off from the rest of the country as all of the entering roads were blocked by the horrific landslides and fallen rocks in the last couple of days.

We got into an overloaded Boralanda bus in front of the Victoria Park that drove dangerously fast. Getting only a tiny foothold on the footboard I felt like flying in the winds. Thankfully the misery came to an end at the Nuwara Eliya hospital as nearly whole the bus was emptied. We got off at Boralanda with Pedro Tea Factory to our right and the Bomburu Ela Reservoir that feeds the Uva-Paranagama valley, beyond that. I was tempted to go see that too but we simply had no time. So we continued along the Pedro Estate road which is terrible, not good for anything other than a tuk-tuk, tractor or a jeep. You’re anyway better off walking. It’s about 1-1.5km to the Lovers’ Leap Falls. We walked avoiding the muddy areas as best as we could. The rocky hill to the right of Lovers’ Leap Falls was rising into the clear blue sky. However there was a thick cloud of mist floating from the Welimada valley engulfing Boralanda.

The walk was very pleasurable and we got glimpses of this beautiful and unique fall in the distance. The Kovil that was merely a cement step now has been constructed well. Walking through the gate of the Kovil we found the well-used footpath to the base of the falls. Even though I’d been to this lovely lady before (another late December) it didn’t feel like so. She was beautiful in a completely different way. I took pictures of her and getting closer to the base was very tough as the crashing down water sent millions of droplets shooting at you as if warning you not to get any closer. I obeyed fully and got only as close as she would allow then took a path that goes uphill the right of the falls to get a side view.

Afterwards, we bid farewell to her but to our disgust, saw many left beer cans, plastic bottles and polythene bags among the trees and bushes.  It’s not easy getting the reckless and careless tourists to take care of the Mother Nature. Let’s hope at least the next generation will be more careful. We took another short cut climbing straight down through the tea patch and then entering a village, passing a bigger Kovil finally getting to the main road about 1km before where we got off and took to the path.

This is one of my favorite designs of the Stupa

This is one of my favorite designs of the Stupa

Top of it

Top of it

Chuda Manikya can be seen

Chuda Manikya can be seen

Simply beautiful

Simply beautiful

Pedro Factory

Pedro Factory

The hills towards Lovers' Leap

The hills towards Lovers’ Leap

Their day goes on

Their day goes on

Couple of foreigners trying to pose for pics

Couple of foreigners trying to pose for pics

Hills

Hills

View of the Boralanda Town and houses in many colors

View of the Boralanda Town and houses in many colors

Done as if with a foot ruler

Done as if with a foot ruler

Kovil before the falls

Kovil before the falls

Other side

Other side

There she is

There she is

Portrait

Portrait

Closer

Closer

Upper part like a rocky boat

Upper part like a rocky boat

Was hard to get any closer

Was hard to get any closer

Wide angle

Wide angle

Plunging down

Plunging down

Another view

Another view

Going back

Going back

Busy at work

Busy at work

Harvest

Harvest

Beautiful flower

Beautiful flower

Common ones

Common ones

Not very sweet

Not very sweet

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

Galwala Ella

Got a bus and got off at the hospital. We were thirsty so had a quick soft drink before walking towards the hospital. Take the road to the right of the hospital that will go in a semi-circle and at the end will be the Galwala Ella. We could see the falls clearly even from the main road signaling the rains had done the trick. She too is a seasonal falls only coming alive during the heavy rains. Among the large crowd of people going to the hospital for the midday visit, we were carried on. We then took the road to the right and followed it close to a km till the falls.

She was great looking and the houses around were busy with people trying to dry their clothes in the long delayed sun. The stream originates from the Piduruthalagala range and due to the position of large rocks along the stream, the name Galwala Ella. It’s said that during the colonial era, the British soldiers used this as a bathing place. There is a tank built on the top diverting water to the city and as a result, she only comes alive during the heavy rains. We were lucky to have been at the ideal time.

After the typical Sri Photo Gallery, we got back feeling ravenous and got a bus to the Nuwara Eliya town.

A rare sighting

A rare sighting

Where the English Soldiers bathed

Where the English Soldiers bathed

Upper part

Upper part

Bottom

Bottom

Portrait

Portrait

Beet root

Beet root

Good-bye sweet heart

Good-bye sweet heart

Glen Falls

We had a lunch of Wadei and Masala Thosai washed down with Ginger Beer. We felt better and got to find a bus to Nanu Oya. The next bus was due in about half hour so we took a walk towards the racecourse hoping to get a look at this beauty as well. She too like many waterfalls in Nuwara Eliya has become a seasonal fall as the water is diverted to supply the never ending demand in the city.

We could get a very good view from the front of racecourse and thanks to the long reach managed not only some long range shots but a short video clip as well. Just as I was finishing the thing, the bus appeared making us jump. We managed to get in and Morgan found that the S12 had reached Talawakele on her way to Nanu Oya. I was to take it back to Colombo. We arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare. The train arrived with only a handful of passengers coz this was only the second day since they resumed operations after the earth slips.

Another attractive buildings

Another attractive buildings

The Nuwara Eliya gardens isolated

The Nuwara Eliya gardens isolated

Another of this

Another of this

Serene-looking Buddha

Serene-looking Buddha

Wish I was the owner

Wish I was the owner

No rides for them or their owners

No rides for them or their owners

Another rare sighting of Glen Falls

Another rare sighting of Glen Falls

Almost dead due to water diversion

Almost dead due to water diversion

Falling on

Falling on

Comes alive only during heavy rains

Comes alive only during heavy rains

Race course

Race course

Grand stadium

Grand stadium

Getting in, I had a whole second class carriage to myself, something that’s not likely to happen again. So having inspected all the seats, I finally made up my mind where to sit. Morgan accompanied me up to Great Western where we parted company. It was good to be there once again and looking at the Great Western Mountain, made me wanna climb her once again. Well, I might as well do it, you never know with me.

Well folks, that is the end of the 16th dedicated waterfall tour. I’ve only got 5 more to beat the Tour de France. Hopefully I’ll get the chance to do so in 2015.

Thanks for patiently reading up to now. I’ll bid you farewell for now. By the time I finish this fairy tale, I’d done another big one, something only a handful of the ordinary folks would have the luxury of doing.

It’s another fairy tale, I’ll see with that in the future.

Till then, be safe and keep traveling.

Cheers,

Sri…

Roaming in Bambarakanda and Haldummulla

$
0
0
soraYear and Month January, 2015 (02nd & 03rd )
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 4 – Shalika, Thusitha, Nadeesha and Niroshan
Accommodation Uma Guest. Uwathanna T.P. 0723654871
Transport Bus, Three-wheeler and Walking
Activities Photography, waterfall hunting, sightseeing and archeology
Weather Excellent
Route
  • Day 1 Colombo -> Bambarakanda(බඹරකන්ද) (172-173Km posts) ->Coming back to Uwathanna (ඌවතැන්න)
  • Day 2 Uwathanna -> Haldummulla (හල්දුම්මුල්ල) -> Portuguese Fort->Soraguna Dewalaya (සොරගුනේ දේවාලය) -> Back to Haldummulla -> Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Start the journey as early as possible.
  • Don’t pollute the environment by putting plastic and polythene items. Surroundings of most waterfalls are still clean.
  • Following new constructions of Bambarakanda waterfall, they try to keep it clean as much as possible. You have to buy a ticket of Rs 30 for entrance. There is a separate person to clean the environment of base pool of Bambarakanda. But it doesn’t mean we have to put plastic and polythene to be cleaned by him
  • Need some protective measures from leech. But comparatively lesser than Sinharaja and Knuckles.
  • You can arrange meals from Bambarakanda Resort Cottage-057 3575699.
  • Better have a guide unless you have not visited the place before. Trail guides are really helpful. But due to previous unpleasant incidences better have a guide to roam in this area.
  • Yalathanna (යාලතැන්න) waterfall is a hidden one and bit difficult to find it. Sometimes villagers/ estate workers don’t know it. All other waterfalls are well known.
  • Pathway to watch Uduwara (උඩුවර) and Nagadowa (නාගදෝව) waterfalls is got forested after line houses of Lampuwaththa (ලාම්පුවත්ත) . But you can trace it. Estate workers may tell it is difficult to go there. Nothing like that and you have to squeeze through only few meters of Mana bushes.
  • Byroad from Colombo-Badulla road to Bambarakanda waterfall is excellent. You can get a threehweel at the beginning of the road. Thushara is a helpful and knowledgeable three wheel driver. T.P:0718166270
  • It is better you have a vehicle to cover places at Haldummulla. It will save the time.
  • Nothing much to see at Haldummulla Portuguese Fort. But if you visit there in a brighten day you can have a beautiful surrounding view.
  • Behave well at Dewalaya premises. Get the permission before taking photographs

**Special Thanks to** – Sri for your running commentary to Yalathanna waterfall. Otherwise we would miss it. Mr. Chandana from Haldummulla for your guidance in Haldummulla. Thanks Harinda to share your previous experience about this area with us. (I think most updated report I found about this area)-

Related Resources
  1. Trip Reports Tagged with Bambarakanda
  2. Attraction: Bambarakanda – Waterfalls, Mountains, adventure and scenic beauty
  3. Trail Guides
  4. Amazing Lanka on Haldummulla Fort
  5. Discussion: The fortress at Haldummulla
  6. Infosrilanka on Soragune Devalaya
Author
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

I wanted to start my trip calendar of 2015 with some fresh waterfalls hunting following heavy rains of end of 2014. My first visit to Bambarakanda happened in 2010 and this is after 5 years. Bambarakanda area doesn’t have much rain during last two weeks. But feeding lands of these waterfalls-Hortain plains had such heavy rain. Therefore waterfalls showed their full phase in our visit.

We reached Bambarakanda resort cottage around 8.30am and Mrs. Sera Mayakaduwa (owner of the cottage) was ready with our breakfast and the guide. Following the breakfast we started the journey. It was a circular trail we planned like as follows:

Bambarakanda Resort Cottage-> Bambarakanda waterfall and it’s upper one->Lanka Ella-> Yalathanna Falls-> Uduwara and Nagadowa Falls-> Returned to Bambarakanda Resort Cottage.

Walking along Colombo-Badulla road towards Bambarakanda

Walking along Colombo-Badulla road towards Bambarakanda

Peaks of the area- Black circle-Wangedigala (වන්ගෙඩිගල), Blue circle-Balathuduwa (බලතුඩුව) , Yellow circle-Gommolliya Kanda (ගොම්මොල්ලිය කන්).

Peaks of the area- Black circle-Wangedigala (වන්ගෙඩිගල), Blue circle-Balathuduwa (බලතුඩුව) , Yellow circle-Gommolliya Kanda (ගොම්මොල්ලිය කන්).

Recently found archeology attraction. This is called Gala Pita Gala (ගලපිටගල)

Recently found archeology attraction. This is called Gala Pita Gala (ගලපිටගල)

Surrounding view

Surrounding view

View of Bambarakanda Waterfall from Bambarakanda Resort cottage. Two markers: Black circle- Bambarakanda Lovers.  Red circle-Sleeping man. But I can’t spot them

View of Bambarakanda Waterfall from Bambarakanda Resort cottage. Two markers: Black circle- Bambarakanda Lovers. Red circle-Sleeping man. But I can’t spot them

.

.

All in one-Bambarakanda Waterfall, Gommolliya Kanda, Balathuduwa and Wangedigala

All in one-Bambarakanda Waterfall, Gommolliya Kanda, Balathuduwa and Wangedigala

View of Bambarakanda waterfall over Bambarakanda Resort Cottage.

View of Bambarakanda waterfall over Bambarakanda Resort Cottage.

We walked down along the main road up to the entrance of Bambarakanda waterfall trail. Now they have made a foot pathway with cement steps to the base pool of Bambarakanda waterfall. There is an observation desk at base pool of Bambarakanda waterfall where we had a full view of the tallest fall of Sri Lanka. It was difficult to save our cameras getting wet from droplets of the waterfall shakes with wind.

Starting the journey

Starting the journey

Front view of the waterfall

Front view of the waterfall

Water from Bambarakanda waterfall

Water from Bambarakanda waterfall

Time for a snap

Time for a snap

Nicely made cement steps towards the base pool

Nicely made cement steps towards the base pool

Bambarakanda Falls (බඹරකන්ද ඇල්ල)

This is the highest waterfall of Sri Lanka which has 263m (863feet) height. It starts from Hortain Plains and makes the waterfall at Bambaragala (බඹරගල) Mountain. Though it is seen as a single waterfall, it has a hidden fall above classically seen Bambarakanda waterfall.  There is a pool in between upper and lower Bambarakanda waterfalls where you can have a bath.

Top of lower Bambarakanda waterfall-Zoomed

Top of lower Bambarakanda waterfall-Zoomed

Fast flow

Fast flow

Full flow of Bambarakanda Falls

Full flow of Bambarakanda Falls

Base pool where you can have a bath

Base pool where you can have a bath

Members of the journey….Their first visit to the tallest waterfall of Sri Lanka except me

Members of the journey….Their first visit to the tallest waterfall of Sri Lanka except me

Clicked up

Clicked up

We followed the cement steps back and joined with the foot pathway which went through Pines forest. It ascended up and at one point we noticed a branch in right hand side towards the upper Bambarakanda falls. Without going to upper fall we followed the foot pathway further to reach Lanka Ella.

Bambarakanda waterfall with it's upper and lower parts. Photo was taken on the way to Soragune Dewalaya.

Bambarakanda waterfall with it’s upper and lower parts. Photo was taken on the way to Soragune Dewalaya.

Foot pathway to Lanka Ella (ලoකා ඇල්ල) winds through the Pines patch first and then reached an open area where we met Mana bushes.

Blue arrow shows where we continued towards Lanka Ella. Yellow arrow shows the direction towards top of Bambarakanda Falls

Blue arrow shows where we continued towards Lanka Ella. Yellow arrow shows the direction towards top of Bambarakanda Falls

Going up....

Going up….

Ascend....

Ascend….

Colombo-Badulla road is seen

Colombo-Badulla road is seen

View through Pines trees

View through Pines trees

One of the oldest guides we got

One of the oldest guides we got

Flat terrain…..

Flat terrain…..

Entering to the open area.....Hortain plains is seen

Entering to the open area…..Hortain plains is seen

Little creature.....

Little creature…..

Where foot pathway gets branched...Black arrow towards Lanka Ella. Red arrow towards upper part of Lanka Ella and then to Yalathanna Falls

Where foot pathway gets branched…Black arrow towards Lanka Ella. Red arrow towards upper part of Lanka Ella and then to Yalathanna Falls

Through Mana bushes....

Through Mana bushes….

What a scenery.....

What a scenery…..

.

.

Another waterfall which is found somewhere below Lanka Ella

Another waterfall which is found somewhere below Lanka Ella

Lanka Ella (ලoකා ඇල්ල)

This 12m/40feet tall waterfall gets it’s name due to the base pool which has the shape of Sri Lanka. Early this base pool was so deep and believed to have a treasurer. But now this base pool is filled with large stones making it shallow.

Lanka Ella-first view

Lanka Ella-first view

Reaching the base of Lanka Ella…..

Reaching the base of Lanka Ella…..

Full view of Lanka Ella….

Full view of Lanka Ella….

That's why it is called Lanka Ella

That’s why it is called Lanka Ella

How water flows following the water fall

How water flows following the water fall

Following Lanka Ella we followed the foot pathway back and headed towards top of Lanka Ella. We crossed Lanka Ella and followed the foot pathway through the Mana patch till we reach Udaweriya/Uduwara tea estate. Our aim was to visit at Yalathanna waterfall.

As usual, our guide was clueless about the waterfall and he denied to cross Lanka Ella. This time Sri came to my help over the phone and guided towards Yalathanna Fall.

After come to tea estate we walked about 100m and then creped down in our left hand side towards the water stream. It was bit difficult to get down as there was no such a foot pathway. Then we walked parallel to the water stream. At one stage we found a tiny waterfall at the water stream. We would like to name it as Pahala Yalathanna Fall (පහල යාල තැන්න ඇල්ල).

We walked further up till we meet this furious lady following rain-Yalathanna waterfall.

Yalathanna waterfall (යාල තැන්න ඇල්ල)

This waterfall is situated at Yalathanna area. It might have a height of 15-20m. Yalathanna waterfall is a hidden one and no clear foot pathway to reach there.

.

.

Shows the foot pathway crossing Lanka Ella

Shows the foot pathway crossing Lanka Ella

Upper part of Lanka Ella where “Edanda” (ඒදණ්ඩ) is placed

Upper part of Lanka Ella where “Edanda” (ඒදණ්ඩ) is placed

Help to cross……

Help to cross……

Poor guide refused to cross

Poor guide refused to cross

At top of Lanka Ella

At top of Lanka Ella

Foot pathway at the edge of the slope

Foot pathway at the edge of the slope

Upper part of Lanka Ella is seen well

Upper part of Lanka Ella is seen well

Entering to tea patch and descend in the direction shown by yellow arrow

Entering to tea patch and descend in the direction shown by yellow arrow

Pahala Yalathanna Falls

Pahala Yalathanna Falls

Yalathanna Falls

Yalathanna Falls

Furious flow

Furious flow

Base pool of Yalathanna Falls

Base pool of Yalathanna Falls

This is how Lanka Ella origins

This is how Lanka Ella origins

Unknown hidden beauty

Unknown hidden beauty

We followed the same foot pathway back and selected the foot pathway up to join with the road goes in front of Bambarakanda guest. There was somewhat clear foot pathway but we clarified our way by estate workers.

Once we entered the gravel road we started to go down till we find the foot pathway to “Lampuwaththa” estate. You can have a view of Uduwara and Nagadowa at “Lampuwaththa” estate. But estate workers discouraged us about unclear foot pathway.

We got a new guide form there and he brought us to a place where both Uduwara and Nagadowa waterfalls can be seen well. Actually this foot pathway starts at the end of the tea estate and now it has been forested. Otherwise no problem in following this foot pathway.

Getting to the road

Getting to the road

Black and white bend

Black and white bend

Lampuwaththa- foot pathway is started from the end of the tea patch. It is direction is shown by the arrow

Lampuwaththa- foot pathway is started from the end of the tea patch. It is direction is shown by the arrow

Surrounding view

Surrounding view

Two in one-Nagadowa and Uduwara Falls

Two in one-Nagadowa and Uduwara Falls

Nagadowa Falls

Nagadowa Falls

Uduwara Falls

Uduwara Falls

Day 02

This was the day of Haldummulla. Haldummulla is situated few kilometers away from Kalupahana (කලුපහන) (Where Bambarakanda waterfall is located) towards Badulla. It has several tourist attractions. It’s elevation is 1200meters.

Haldummulla Portuguese Fort (හල්දුම්මුල්ල පෘතුගීසි බලකොටුව)

This is situated on top of Haldummulla mountain where surrounding is clearly visible. The fort is referred as Katugodalla (කටුගොඩැල්ල) fort as well. Only the stone outlining of the shape of the base of the fort lies within the Pines forest in the present day. At the time of existence, it formed a frontier post for the Colombo based area under Portuguese control. The Idalgashinna (ඉදල්ගස්හින්න) pass was a gateway to the Uva and its capital of Badulla and it was used as staging post by the Portuguese forces.

There are two pathways to reach this. One is through Need Wood estate where road condition is good. We got the direction at Halatuthanna (හාල් අටුතැන්න) junction (Before Haldummulla town from Kalupahana) and drove up about 4-5kms. Scenery was so beautiful and we parked our vehicle closer to the tea factory at Need Wood estate. Then we clarified the way by nearby villagers. It was situated about 500m away from Need Wood tea factory.

There is another road/foot pathway from Haldummulla town towards the fort. We noticed the archeology board in front of this pathway. Don’t know much details of it.

Directions at Halatuthanna junction: Blue arrow from Kalupahana. Black arrow towards the fort

Directions at Halatuthanna junction: Blue arrow from Kalupahana. Black arrow towards the fort

Scenic view....

Scenic view….

Haldummulla Mountain

Haldummulla Mountain

Idalgashinna

Idalgashinna

Need Wood tea factory

Need Wood tea factory

Balathuduwa, Gommolliya and Hortain Plains

Balathuduwa, Gommolliya and Hortain Plains

Haldummulla Fort with it's back drop of  Balathuduwa and Gommolliya Kanda

Haldummulla Fort with it’s back drop of Balathuduwa and Gommolliya Kanda

Foot pathway following tea factory

Foot pathway following tea factory

Clicked up...

Clicked up…

At Pines patch....

At Pines patch….

Haldummulla Portuguese Fort

Haldummulla Portuguese Fort

Might be the water canal surrounding the fort

Might be the water canal surrounding the fort

Remains of the fort

Remains of the fort

What a view.....

What a view…..

Mountainous view

Mountainous view

We drove back to Halatuthanna junction after the fort and got the way down towards Soragune ancient Katharagama Dewalaya from the junction.

Soragune Ancient Katharagama Dewalaya (සොරගුණේ පුරාණ කතරගම දේවාලය)

This might be the main tourist attraction of Haldummulla. It is situated about 8km from Halatuthanna Junction. The road condition is excellent following new construction.

This was built by a local king called Yapa (යාපා) during Seethawaka Rajasingha (සීතාවක රාජසිoහ) period. During the battle with King Seethawaka Rajasingha, King Yapa made a promise to build a Dewalaya for God Katharagama if he wins. He forgot his vow though he won the war. Later King Yapa got a sore throat and then he remembered the promise for God Katharagama. Then he built a small Dewalaya here for the god and cured his sore throat. Therefore this Dewalaya called Soragune due to curing sore throat.

Soragune Dewalaya has all components of an ancient Dewalaya: Kattaha Maduwa (කට්ටාහ මඩුව), Diggeya (දිග්ගෙය), Maligawa (මාලිගාව), kitchen and store rooms.

Directions at Halatuthanna junction

Directions at Halatuthanna junction

.

.

Entrance

Entrance

Entrance to “Kattaha Maduwa” කට්ටාහ මඩුව

Entrance to “Kattaha Maduwa” කට්ටාහ මඩුව

“Kattaha Maduwa” කට්ටාහ මඩුව

“Kattaha Maduwa” කට්ටාහ මඩුව

Wood carvings

Wood carvings

“Diggeya” දිග්ගෙය

“Diggeya” දිග්ගෙය

“Kani Madala” කැණි මඩල

“Kani Madala” කැණි මඩල

“God Katharagama”

“God Katharagama”

Kitchen and store room

Kitchen and store room

Wood carvings

Wood carvings

Up stair is called Maligawa

Up stair is called Maligawa

Image house of the temple-new constructions

Image house of the temple-new constructions

Stupa

Stupa

A Stone pillar

A Stone pillar

“Paththirippuwa” පත්තිරිප්පුව

“Paththirippuwa” පත්තිරිප්පුව

“Ratha geya” රථ ගෙය

“Ratha geya” රථ ගෙය

Following Soragune Dewalaya we came back to Halatuthanna junction. Our next place of visit was a pre historical burial ground and settlement at Haldummulla. There are number of these kind places at Haldummulla and excavations done by Prof. Raj Somadewa and team few years ago.

Local authority has made a concrete road over one of these excavations in Haldummulla.

It is situated in few meters of the road of Haldummulla Tamil School.

Road towards Haldummulla Tamil School

Road towards Haldummulla Tamil School

This is the area some excavations done. But road is concreted including a part of that land

This is the area some excavations done. But road is concreted including a part of that land

Huffing and Puffing.....

Huffing and Puffing…..

Haldummulla church-It was built recently but it carries some traditional components of Sinhala architecture. First time I have noticed such a thing at a churc

Haldummulla church-It was built recently but it carries some traditional components of Sinhala architecture. First time I have noticed such a thing at a churc

Moon stone and guard stones at church

Moon stone and guard stones at church

At the end we had a bath from a water stream and got our lunch there. As I had to attend to a function in the night we winded up the second day of the trip early and came to Colombo.

Thanks for reading.

Island life on Eluvaitivu and Analaitivu

$
0
0
Year and Month February, 2015
Number of Days Three
Crew Three
Accommodation De Silvas rest Jaffna
Transport Pajero
Activities Culture, Road trip, Archaeology, photography
Weather Perfect weather
Route D1 Chilaw -> Anuradhapura -> Vavuniya -> Iranamadu -> Jaffna -> Dambakola patuna  ->  Chankanai ->  Jaffna

D2  Jaffna -> Kaytes -> Karampan jetty -> Eluvaitivu -> Analaitivu -> Kaytes -> Karainagar -> Ponnalai -> Jaffna

D3 Jaffna -> Navatkuli -> Pooneryn -> Mulankavil -> Mannar -> Silavathurai -> Marichchukkaddi -> Eluwankulama -> Puttalam -> Chilaw

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Explain your intentions clearly to villagers
  • Knowing tamil is an added advantage
  • To reach Eluvaitivu & Analaitivu one needs to get to Karampan jetty of Kaytes
  • There are boats almost hourly and you could take a bus from Jaffna to the jetty
  • A ticket costs 25/= to Elluvaitivu and 40/= to Analaitivu
  • In Eluvaitivu you could hire a landmaster for an island tour and at Analaitivu trishaws are available

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Amila for Hosting

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
the map - click to enlarge

the map – click to enlarge

So this was my second visit (previous visit) to Jaffna this year and I would re visit this lovely land at any given time because there is so much to see. This time my main objectives were to visit two populated islands in Jaffna and also to show around my wife the beauty I experienced during my previous visits. On the way to Jaffna we did stop at Iranamadu to have some tea. We reached Jaffna at around 9am and refreshed ourselves before exploring the peninsula.

First we visited the fort then headed straight away towards Casurina beach of Karainagar and returned back to Jaffna for lunch! After lunch and a small nap we headed towards Chunnakam and we visited Keerimalai pond, Dambakola patuna & Kadurugoda temple (Please visit this link to get directions of above stated locations). From Chunnakam we headed towards Chankanai. Once one proceeds few hundred meters towards Karainagar, one would come across an Old Dutch church on the left hand side of the road. This is now an archeological site. From here onwards we returned to Jaffna through Manipay. We also came across an ambalama by the side of the road. This is called Aarukaal Madam at Annaikkoddai. These sought of resting places could be found around Jaffna by the side of the road. To learn all about the components of these “madams” please refer this link. At Jaffna we reached the district secretariat office. Opposite it by the side of A9 one could see the old DS office which is now an archeology site.

misty morning at Kilinochchi

misty morning at Kilinochchi

the blazing sun

the blazing sun

Iranamadu reservoir

Iranamadu reservoir

 the bund

the bund

hard life

hard life

close to elephant pass

close to elephant pass

 the fort

the fort

a pelican

a pelican

my favourite board

my favourite board

Keerimalai pond

Keerimalai pond

Dambakola patuna

Dambakola patuna

the shores of dambakola patuna

the shores of dambakola patuna

very busy

very busy

frequent sightings

frequent sightings

Kandaroadai

Kandaroadai

 in good condition

in good condition

Chankanai church

Chankanai church

remains of the church

remains of the church

outer view

outer view

Aarukaal madam

Aarukaal madam

 old DS office

old DS office

dutch archetecture

dutch architecture

in ruins

in ruins

 window to heaven

window to heaven

what a evening

what an evening

bye bye

bye bye

the sun set

the sun set

and she went

and she went

couldnt resist clicking

couldn’t resist clicking

Day two was the day I was looking forward too. Yes the sun was shining bright and inviting us to go ahead and explore the unseen. Amila also joined us for this island expedition. We reached Karampan jetty of Kaytes at around 9am and got on to an Eluvaitivu boat. After a 20 minute ride we reached the island of Eluvaitivu. This is a small island with 150 families. There were no trishaws or any other vehicles. But there was a small tractor with its owner who offered to take us on an island tour for 500/= bucks. He took us from one end to the other end and made sure we returned back on time for the ferry. We did note many government institutes like the hospital, school, post office and few more. The coastal shores were lonely but there weren’t any good bathing sites. Our tractor guy was kind enough to offer us some king coconut and boiled Palmyra shoots. After a 1 and a half hour island tour we returned to Karampan jetty for our next adventure.

goats heating up there butts

goats heating up there butts

pied kingfisher

pied kingfisher

welcome to kaytes

welcome to kaytes

Gods children

Gods children

 love and comfort

love and comfort

boarding the Eluvaitivu boat

boarding the Eluvaitivu boat

island of Eluvaitivu

island of Eluvaitivu

returning boat from the island

returning boat from the island

passengers on the deck

passengers on the deck

reaching Eluvaitivu

reaching Eluvaitivu

awaiting to recieve us

awaiting to receive us

calm beech of Eluvaitivu

calm beech of Eluvaitivu

fisihing is their livelihood

fisihing is their livelihood

Analaitivu

Analaitivu

lovely house

lovely house

 the path we took

the path we took

health reaches the extremes

health reaches the extremes

poverty

poverty

the post office

the post office

the school bell

the school bell

fresh water pond

fresh water pond

our BMW ride

our BMW ride

indian rollar

indian rollar

the chap who followed us

the chap who followed us

lovely path

lovely path

the coast of Eluvaitivu

the coast of Eluvaitivu

 young palmyra plants

young palmyra plants

playing cricket at Eluvaitivu

playing cricket at Eluvaitivu

 only in jaffna

only in jaffna

livelihood

livelihood

 leaving the jetty

leaving the jetty

friendly faces

friendly faces

After an one hour brake at Karampan we got on to the ferry which took us towards Analaitivu. It was a 40 minute ride under the blazing sun. Analaitivu is one of those huge islands just like Delft. It has many administrative buildings and few Kovils. We hired a trishaw guy to show us a around the island for 1000/= bucks and he was a supersonic guy. The trishaw was racing along the B grade road but within no time he understood that going so fast is not possible with our frequent stops. Our first stop was the old light house where Parititivu which is an extension of Analaitivu could be seen. This island resembled Delft in many ways but to our surprise this island had paddy fields. It is said that this island has the best drinking water in Jaffna. More than Eluvaitivu Analaitivu is worth visiting. On the other side of the island there was a small stretch of land connecting Analaitivu and Puliyathivu which was another extension of the island. The beach around this point was good for a calm swim. After an one and a half hour high speed trishaw ride we returned back to the jetty and took off towards Kaytes. We took our jeep across the ocean from Kaytes to Karainagar with the aid of the ferry and that was a new experience to me. The wonderful evening ended with a bicycle ride to Rio ice cream stall at Nallur (customer service is not good). The 10km up and down bicycle ride with my wife was a great way to end a memorable day.

leaving karampan jetty for the second time

leaving karampan jetty for the second time

 on the way to analaithivu

on the way to analaithivu

amila having a chat

amila having a chat

island of Ellvaitivu

island of Ellvaitivu

reaching Analaitivu

reaching Analaitivu

welcome to Analaitivu

welcome to Analaitivu

mini tanks at Analaitivu

mini tanks at Analaitivu

health services

health services

 a saloon

a saloon

 main mode of transport

main mode of transport

never seen an Alpha goat like this

never seen an Alpha goat like this

the light house of Analaitivu

the light house of Analaitivu

beauties on the floor

beauties on the floor

love to walk along this

love to walk along this

lonely tree

lonely tree

towards Parititivu

towards Parititivu

beautiful roads

beautiful roads

halted

halted

cemetry

cemetry

a church

a church

coral blocked walls

coral blocked walls

coastal road

coastal road

komarika were found everywhere

komarika were found everywhere

komarika flower

komarika flower

chillie

chilies (main cultivation)

 a hut

a hut

open land

open land

calm and quiet

calm and quiet

lovely beach

lovely beach

fresh water pond

fresh water pond

coraled shores

coral-ed shores

 Nainathivu seen from Analaitivu

Nainathivu seen from Analaitivu

abandoned jetty at Puliyanthivu

abandoned jetty at Puliyanthivu

B grade road

B grade road

yes there were paddyfields

yes there were paddyfields

 the main kovil

the main kovil

road side chatting

road side chatting

back to the jetty

back to the jetty

ice cream man

ice cream man

ferry which took our jeep from kayts to Karaeinagar

ferry which took our jeep from kayts to Karaeinagar

on the ferry

on the ferry

another sun set

another sun set

Day 3 was all about returning back along the coastal road. We took the A32 Mannar road and crossed the beautiful lagoon via the Sanguppiddy Bridge. We came across few stretches which were under construction but other than that the whole road was in superb condition up to Mannar. On our way we had a stop at Pooneryn junction to visit the Old Dutch fort. From Mannar to Marichchukkaddi the road was in good condition except few small stretches. We entered the Wilpattu Park crossing Modara gan aru and found out that the road was in bad condition. Now only 4WD vehicles go across this road because of  broken bridges and etc. when we exited Kala oya causeway we were surprised to see that the Eluwankulama – Puttalam road which was also almost completely finished. At around 4pm we reached chilaw to end a magical journey to the north of our pearl island.

paddyfields of Pooneryn

paddyfields of Pooneryn

shores of Pooneryn

shores of Pooneryn

towards salty ocean

towards salty ocean

A 32

A 32

life

life

Sangupiddy

Sangupiddy

here we come

here we come

silvery oceans

silvery oceans

Pooneryn fort

Pooneryn fort

view from the watch post

view from the watch post

the fort

the fort

traffic along A 32

traffic along A 32

 lonely road

lonely road

passing mulankavil

passing mulankavil

plenty of marshy lands

plenty of marshy lands

bird life

bird life

closing to mannar

closing to mannar

 the rice bowl

the rice bowl

crossing modara gan aru

crossing modara gan aru

entering wilpaththu

entering wilpaththu

muddy roads

muddy roads

Black winged . Stilt

Black winged . Stilt

passing many villus

passing many villus

lonely ride

lonely ride

 final hurdle

final hurdle

Great Western Hike

$
0
0
Year and Month January, 2015 (28th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 2 (Dakshina & Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Night mail train
Activities Hiking & Trekking, Photography
Weather Excellent
Route
  • From Polgahawela to Great western by train.
  • Return to same way.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Very special thing is the hike should start early morning as much as possible.
  • It helps to capture the amazing view of crossing train. (But it depends on your luck because it decides by the mist)
  • You must pay your attention well about the weather condition of that area before you go there. The track is slippery very much in rainy season.
  • If you don’t use a GPS tracker it is very important to accompany with an experienced guide.
  • Morgan is the best guy for this journey. You can contact him 077-079 100 2
  • He prepared everything for you after calling.(Even food & beverage, lodge)
  • The easiest way of transport to great western is Badulla night mail.
  • You must keep it your mind polythene is unwholesome to here.
  • Leave only your footprints & bring only sweet memories.

** Special Thanks to **

  • First of all I thanking very much my loving companion Dakshina for materialize my dream
  • Thanking very much Morgan for great guiding and also to your family members for treated us well.
  • Thanks Lakdasun for publishing valuable reports that was very helpful to me.
Author upul nandana
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

If the desire of cossing Sri Lankan 6th highest mountain is born in my heart very earlier, it spent a long time to materialize it. The main reason for that is the vary weather condition of there. However I found a guide by didn’t leaving the try & contact with him. As a result of that finally Morgan responded me which I expected for long time & then prepared to crossign.

I got on to Badulla night mail from Colombo Fort at about 9.40pm. & my companion joins with me at Peradeniya junction. Although we are in sleeping booth, we couldn’t get a comfortable sleep & we reached to the railway station of Great Western at about 3.00am. Two friends of Morgan were come to carry us to Morgan’s house. After getting little sleep in his home, we start the journey at about 7.30 am.

Great dawn

Great dawn

Sacred “Sri padaya”

Sacred “Sri padaya”

Tea Estate

Tea Estate

Correct Focusing

Correct Focusing

The security guard of Morgan

The security guard of Morgan

It’s shoot at Morgans’ garden

It’s shoot at Morgans’ garden

Ready to commence the trail

Ready to commence the trail

This is the 6th highest mountain in Sri Lanka

This is the 6th highest mountain in Sri Lanka

Entering to the rail way track

Entering to the rail way track

He disentitle one leg (He met and accident on his childhood)

He disentitle one leg (He met and accident on his childhood)

Now it’s old

Now it’s old

Lonely Rail way Station

Lonely Rail way Station

Nice view

Nice view

It’s feel dispassionate

It’s feel dispassionate

Enter to the correct line

Enter to the correct line :-)

The Seven virgin

The Seven virgin

Just click

Just click

Lonely

Lonely

Along the rail way

Along the rail way

We started the journey with entering to railway from Morgans’ house. After walking 2km like this we climb the stairs which situated on the left side of the railway line. Passing about 200 steps like this we could sceen a shrine & Morgan said that it is a most sacred one in this area.

There is only one place to take water which suitable for drink from here. So we filled up our bottles. There after we walked ahead along the way which falls near to shrine.

Now entering to steps

Now entering to steps

It’s get into mind “MAHAGIRI DAMBAYA”

It’s get into mind “MAHAGIRI DAMBAYA”

Nice view

Nice view

Blue Sky

Blue Sky

Little fane

Little fane

Enter to the Forest

Enter to the Forest

It’s imagine an art

It’s imagine an art

Another angle

Another angle

crowns

crowns

Waiting for bait

Waiting for bait

Freight train

Freight train

Five petal

Five petal

Direct sun light gives us more tired, because of the foot path lays across an open area. And also cossing become more hard because of the tough ascent & without any support to hang. We went forward very dificully with fallings. (It’snt spent much time to understand the journey of here when rainy season.) Then we entered to a plain area & took the breakfast from there. We swallowed all the foods vey quickly because of  hungry & tired. Then ready to go after getting half hour rest.

Peeping through it

Peeping through it

Clear destination

Clear destination

Nice color

Nice color

“Nelu” buds

“Nelu” buds

Way is not easy

Way is not easy

He is going to be dead

He is going to be dead

Another angle

Another angle

Want some  rest

Want some rest

Ready to get breakfast

Ready to get breakfast

Everything vanished at ones

Everything vanished at ones

Now reach to plain area

Now reach to plain area

It dead harshly

It dead harshly

Little bit tough

Little bit tough

This time she is photogenic

This time she is photogenic

Another angle

Another angle

Buds

Buds

 

We reached to the first top of this mountain which including five tops at about 11.00am & we could scene very beautiful land area. When looking from here we could scene Haggala mountain range side & the Horton plains, Kirigalpotta & Thotupola mountains could be scene very clearly in the other side. Piduruthalagala, Kikiliyamana Mountains & the maiden forest range which spread towards Nuwara-Eliya could see clearly.

After stay few minutes there we left with the intention of see the exchange of two trains. Rests of four tops were situated as very small, so we could went easily forward.

First view point

First view point

Kirigalpoththa & Horton plains

Kirigalpoththa & Horton plains

Rainy wind

Rainy wind

The way of “Shortcut”

The way of “Shortcut”

Radella Stadium

Radella Stadium

Trail head at hand

Trail head at hand

Great guidance

Great guidance

Piduruthalagala & Kikiliyamana

Piduruthalagala & Kikiliyamana

Landscaping

Landscaping

Haggala Mountain

Haggala Mountain

Amazing up county rail way track

Amazing up county rail way track

Now we close to it

Now we close to it

The forest range which spreads towards Nuwaraeliya

The forest range which spreads towards Nuwaraeliya

Through the bushes

Through the bushes

we raech to the destination at about 11.45am and by then a beautiful image of the surrounding is appeared. Specially we hope to feel the splendour of the view of cossing 2 trains which came from Colombo to Badulla & Badulla to Colombo on air. This is the only place which we can see this view in Sri Lanka.

But the unexpected misty condition is made us very inconvenient with broken our all hopes. As time spending like this we had herd only the sound of the train. The train is waiting at the rail way station for the arrival of next train & three of us herd the sound of that with looking the mist. morgan said that, its depend on the fortune.

The other train is coming from Badulla by now & our fortune is arising according to the Morgan. Because the mist is dissapeared little by little & the beautiful scene is appeared. Really we were lucky to see that beautiful sceneries which related on that place only.

The trail head

The trail head

Railway Station

Railway Station

Morgans’ village

Morgans’ village

Misty  is flowing

Misty is flowing

All is covered by the mist

All is covered by the mist

Podi Menike waiting for Udarata Minike

Podi Menike waiting for Udarata Minike

Udarata Menike is coming

Udarata Menike is coming

Mist make us inconvenient

Mist make us inconvenient

But we are lucky

But we are lucky

That’s the view which we waiting

That’s the view which we waiting

Now it’s time to leave

Now it’s time to leave

Udarata Menike Start the journey to Colombo

Udarata Menike Start the journey to Colombo

Actually it’s an amazing

Actually it’s an amazing

The longest Train in Sri Lanka

The longest Train in Sri Lanka :-)

It’s areal photogenic

It’s areal photogenic

Mist again disturb us

Mist again disturb us

She passing the Morgans’ colony

She passing the Morgans’ colony

Podi Menike get permission to Badulla

Podi Menike get permission to Badulla

Another view

Another view

She is very flexible

She is very flexible

Nice view

Nice view

She is near to vanish

She is near to vanish

She moves her own rhythm

She moves her own rhythm

She also reaching to vanish

She also reaching to vanish

The clear surrounding which exsists till dispearing the trains is change orderly and covered by the mist & we stay there a moment & left at about 1.00pm. There is a camp site on the highest place of the mountain & our hearts were pain by looking the damage of surrounding there because of polythene which throw by travellers.

Red leaves

Red leaves

Mist is come again

Mist is come again

Mist is governed there

Mist is governed there

Misty world

Misty world

The victorious gang

The victorious gang

A great guide

A great guide

We did it

We did it

The camp site

The camp site

It’s an safe method… lol..

It’s an safe method… lol..

After stay some time on the rock, we start the journey again with the start of small rain. It’s little hard to come down, so we have to use the rope for some places.

Just click

Just click

Colorful forest

Colorful forest

It’s like  a flower

It’s like a flower

Just click

Just click

Beautiful blossoms

Beautiful blossoms

Seeking the infinity

Seeking the infinity

Red buds

Red buds

Relax in heaven

Relax in heaven

Hanging legs in freedom

Hanging legs in freedom

Little bit adventure

Little bit adventure

It’s too risky in rainy season

It’s too risky in rainy season

Through the misty cloths to Badulla

Through the misty cloths to Badulla

Ready to bend

Ready to bend

Turn around the mountain

Turn around the mountain

Fully damp

Fully damp

She covered her face by mist

She covered her face by mist

We came to kovil premises at about 3.00pm & we entirely get wet by then. The surrounding is swallowed by the mist and it gains a novel experience for us.

We entered to the rail way track and start came back and completed the journey successfully at the rail way station at about 4.30pm.

Along the went back

Along the went back

Leaves

Leaves

Another angle

Another angle

Little buddy

Little buddy

Thick mist

Thick mist

Way of heaven

Way of heaven

Feeling cool

Feeling cool

Just click

Just click

Went back

Went back

Mist is go away

Mist is go away

Just click

Just click

“Expo” to Badulla

“Expo” to Badulla

Observation saloon

Observation saloon

Danger zone

Danger zone

He tries to get Selfie

He tries to get Selfie

Gift of nature

Gift of nature

Nice pattern

Nice pattern

Ear of corns

Ear of corns

Along the paradise

Along the paradise

Straightly

Straightly

Chaining the environment

Chaining the environment

Little train

Little train

Reaching to the destination

Reaching to the destination

Station of great western

Station of great western

Morgon said about the journey to the SM

Morgon said about the journey to the SM

Well efflorescence

Well efflorescence

Blooming yet

Blooming yet

Thanks a lot dr…

Thanks a lot dr…

Good bye!!!

Good bye!!!

Thanks for reading my long report.

Have a safe & lucky journey!!!

Front Row Seat – Podi Menike…

$
0
0
Year and Month Dec, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew I, Me & Myself (of course the two engine drivers were there as well)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By S12 Train (Podi Menike)
Activities Enjoying the Upcountry Railway Line from an inside of an engine, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Nanu Oya->Raddella->Great Western->Watagoda->Talawakele->Kotagala->Hatton->Rozella->Ihala Watawala->Watawala->Galboda->Inguruoya->Nawalapitiya.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Dreams and hopes are two things (one might say they are one and the same) that keep humans sane and alive making them look forward to the future and better things. We all got dreams and hopes, haven’t we? Well I’m not going to preach you about dreams and hopes or even trying to show you why one should or shouldn’t have them. I’m just paving the way for my latest fairy tale. Well, knowing me by now, you must have guessed as much. Well, keeping aside my career and personal dreams and hopes, I’ve got so many things in my mind stored away that I’m yearning to do as a wandering Romeo. Places I’d love to visit, mountains I’m thinking of climbing, waterfalls I’m dying to see and so on. The list is endless and growing bigger every passing day. I’ve now come to the conclusion that I won’t get to see or do everything in one life time so trying to do as much as humanly possible before I call it quits. Let’s see where I’ll end up by then.

One of the millions of things I wanted to do was Hot Air Ballooning. Fortunately I managed to do it some time ago which was a gem of an experience. One of the many dreams come true. Another big one was to walk along the upcountry railway line and so far managed to do nearly everything except for a small stretch that I intend to achieve in 2015, just don’t tell anyone, will you? I guess I don’t have to tell you about Meemure and Lakegala, do I? They were not just ordinary dreams and feats. One of those crazy dreams was to go in a train engine, in the driving seat, seeing what the drivers get to see before the rest of the party.

Walking along the lush greenery and endless panoramic views in the upcountry tracks made my craving grow bigger and I was getting hungrier. Those good old blue and white Canadian (nearing their 60th birthday) and the green and red German (closing in on the 40th anniversary) engines have always fascinated me. The engineering and the technology used in them such a long time ago is simply fantastic. The way they have been carrying the ball all these years with no complaints is something that proves the quality of engineering and designs along with the materials used to build them. They are simply beast-looking beauties. After all the punishments they’ve received the way they’re continuing even today is something even Canadians and Germans can’t understand I suppose.

I was lucky just once to get on top a broken down M6 engine when I was traveling from Colombo Fort to Hatton on my way to Sri Pada couple of years ago.  The engine simply stopped working, I heard it was the hydraulics, and we had to loiter around Watawala station for nearly two hours during which time I along with few other foreigners took the liberty to get on top of the engine taking a few pictures. I’ve had it in my my etched ever since. What would it be like to go in the driver’s seat watching what they see and understanding how these beasts respond got to me and been in my veins like a virus, never seems to be leaving.

I don’t if you have heard that saying “Try and try, one day you can fly”. It’s something I really believe in and as a result I eventually, after so much of waiting, managed to hop on a train engine and get a front row seat through the eyes of a Chinese lady but for us Sri Lankans, Podi Menike, one of the two ladies running between Badulla and Colombo. So finally the auspicious time arrived and I was invited on board the newly obtained S12 power sets that have finally eased the heavy workload of the German and Canadian ladies. Ironically the former German engines (M6) that were used to be called Podi Menike and Udarata Menike are no longer called that. Instead the Chinese girls have stolen those lovely and fitting names from them. Thinking about what the Chinese usually do, this is nothing new.

Nanu Oya to Thalawakele

The smartly dressed engine driver reminded me of a senior air force officer. Their uniforms were that good. Climbing up the steps into the engine at Nanu Oya was like a dream. Thinking back, I was as if sleep walking into it. Inside, the space was fully occupied by the two comfortable seats for the engine driver and his assistant, pilot and copilot in aviation terms. Behind them in the middle were two fire extinguishers. They could move about along the narrow path behind the seating. The engine compartment was the bulk of the sky blue enclosed wagon with no access whatsoever for others including them. If there was, I wasn’t gonna push my luck that far. The full length dashboard has various control panels including the touch LCD screen of the computer making it easy for the operators. The German and Canadian engines are more towards manual operations whereas this Chinese is largely computer-controlled.

However, from what I gathered, they will still take those good old German and Canadian engines any day. When the green flag was waved, the train slid quietly forward dragging the full complement of two engines attached either end to eight other carriages. The usual M6 load was the engine and seven carriages. So comparatively this twin-engined new Chinese power sets have a larger capacity over the single-engined M6. The night mail is a different ball game altogether. Single German engine pulls thirteen carriages all by herself up to Nawalapitiya. She is so powerful climbing Kadugannawa with the full load is nothing dramatic. However getting up from Nawalapitiya is not so easy so they attach another M6 to this from Nawalapitiya. The second engine pushes the train while the front pulls. When they reach Pattipola, the highest elevation station, the engine in the back joins the one in the front helping with applying breaks as it’s a downhill journey right up to Badulla.

S12 is a lot quieter than the roaring M6. Most of the times those who walk along the railway line escape very narrowly due to this. We gathered speed steadily and crossed the first bridge just passing Nanu Oya. Then came the moment of truth, the train crossed the Nanu Oya Ella on the bridge over her. What a sight that was. Upper and lower parts of the Nanu Oya Ella were falling either side of the train. Lemme tell you, it took only a few seconds to cross the bridge but it’s etched in my mind. Just after this came the bridge at Glassaugh Falls. Similarly she too was falling beautifully, especially the center part that was closer than others to our right. S12 however is a lot smoother than the old and grumbling M6. Watching the railway line in front coming steadily to meet us and then disappear underneath is like a well-planned dream and I was living it. This is when another dream came true as we entered the Tunnel No. 17 just before the Radella Station. It was so sudden and unexpected I had no time to start shooting and in we went. The S12 switched on the two flashlights on the forehead and the engine room went dark save for the lit up LCD screen of the control panel. The journey was short but it ticked one of the million things I had planned to do in my life.

Just to think that I was on the driving seat of a train going along a stretch where I had walked countless hours is something. In no time we reached the Raddella station and I managed to get a glimpse of the Raddella Falls as we sped across the bridge just before the station. She had more water than the last time we saw her. There were only a few people to get on board and a few sacks of vegetables with them.  The upcountry railway does a great service to the farmers helping them to transport their produce at a very nominal fee between the major cities. For them, the train is part of their life. Not only the farmers who depend on the train but there are many who make a living out of it by selling various food and drinks to the passengers such as Water Bottles, Wadei, Roti, Coffee, Soft Drinks, etc. The recent train strikes and the discontinuation due to the earth slips were a major blow for them.

We slowly left Radella behind us and headed towards Great Western. The sixth highest mountain in Sri Lanka loomed in the distance above the tea bushes and the sun was shining through. Soon we arrived at the Great Western station and being able to see the change of tablet from the engine driver’s position was something extraordinary. The assistant driver dropped the looped in which held the copper tablet in a leather pouch was dropped to the assistant at the station and picked another from the station master. You can read more about the tablets and railway telecommunications in my Talawakele to Rosella report. The train can’t go without receiving a tablet from the arriving station. Looking up the top of Great Western Mountain that was free of typical misty veil was extraordinary. When I told them that my hiking frenzy began in here, they wanted to know about the hike and I gave the whole recount of Hari and my adventure. Especially the bit about Hariya’s ruined jeans.

Well, after the usual exchange at the Great Western, we went further towards the Watagoda station. However this is when we really started to make useful conversation with the engine driver and his more experienced assistant. Just passing Great Western, the assistant informed us that there are five places where the pipe lines that carry water to the wretched Upper Kotmale Reservoir. They run underground and cross the railway line in five places. Further towards Watagoda, you get to a point that is something you won’t get to see anywhere else in Sri Lanka, probably not in the whole wide world.

This is where the Watagoda Great Loop, according to the assistant, Soda Bottle Bend starts. The railway line is laid in the shape of a letter ‘Pa’ in Sinhala. In a different way, the shape of a pot with a huge belly. This twist makes the railway line runs parallel and very close to each other (as close as about 100m). The assistant told us about a joke among the engine drivers about this place. As the train line goes so close to each other, when the train takes the bend, one person at the back end of the train is asking for a light from the engine driver to light his cigarette as the engines in the old days were coal-powered. The engine room had the fire to light a cigarette. Ok, back to that special place I told you about. As you enter the Watagoda great loop (only the experienced and knowledgeable people will know that), looking to your left, you will see the same railway line but in five places or points. It runs making all these patterns and it’s visible to you in five places including the one you already on. Apart from the one you are one, the same track can be seen in four other places. To get a better and proper look, it’s better to go for a walk along the railway between Great Western and Watagoda.

Going in the train it passed while I was searching for all five and managed to see all of them barely, at the last second I guess. A quick word on the speed of the train in the upcountry line, especially after Nawalapitiya, they always tend to stay below 40kmph. During my stay, between Nanu Oya and Nawalapitiya, not once we exceeded that limit. No wonder it takes around 10 hours to get to Badulla from Colombo at that kinda speed. They are very concerned about the safety of the train and more so of the passengers and stay within that speed limit. We then reached the Kudira (horse in Tamil) Bridge just before the Watagoda station. So far we had gone through only one tunnel and there was one coming up at the end of the Watagoda loop for I was looking forward to it. Meanwhile we arrived at the Watagoda station and waited for the departure signal.

There were only a short wait while we waited for the passengers to get on board and away we went towards the exit of the Watagoda Great Loop. Finally we reached the end of the Watagoda Loop while the engine driver and his assistant showed me the railway track to the left running almost parallel and closer to us. Tunnel 16 came up to greet us and we passed it in a jiffy. We then entered the Talawakele area where we could see the distant view of Devon Falls. There was the huge black bridge which we had enjoyed a lot in our walk. This time I was on the driving seat passing that underneath. Dismal looking stream that feeds St. Claire was a sight that pained my heart. We passed under the Talawakele-Nanu Oya Road which runs overhead.

Doomed Upper-Kotmale Reservoir was full thanks to the rains and we took the long bridge just before coming to settle at Talawakele Station.

Old M6 looking forlonly my getting onto the newer S12

Old M6 looking forlonly my getting onto the newer S12

The dashboard

The dashboard

LCD screen of the computer

LCD screen of the computer

Through the eyes

Through the eyes

Many more like these

Many more like these

Through the first tunnel we met

Through the first tunnel we met

Came out of it

Came out of it

Bridge before Great Western

Bridge before Great Western

Exlusive journey

Exlusive journey

Arriving at GW station

Arriving at GW station

Ready for the change

Ready for the change

Comfortable seating

Comfortable seating

Very much like an airplane cabin

Very much like an airplane cabin

The curving bridge at Talawakele over the Upper Kotmale Reservoir

The curving bridge at Talawakele over the Upper Kotmale Reservoir

Last bit of it

Last bit of it

Here we are

Here we are

Talawakele to Hatton

We resumed our journey slowly creeping up on the Tunnel 15 which is very short and crawled through it. Assistant engine driver pointed out the sad-looking St. Claire to my left. Her water levels were so low showing mostly the beasty black rock. The lush tea plantations swished past us and so did the Derry Claire substation. Only the goods trains stop at places like these just to facilitate the estate workers and their kids to and from their schools. Closer to Kotagala was the road construction where they build an alternative stretch to the low-roofed tunnel along Hatton-Nuwara Eliya road. The work was going on for some time now and they are at the last stages unless something catastrophic happens.

Kotagala station welcomed us with both hands and we stopped to say hi but only for a brief moment. A historic moment was about to take place. I was about to go through the longest tunnel in Sri Lanka, be it rail or road, inside an engine getting a front row seat. The two officers on the train weren’t even half as excited as I was because this is just another day’s work for them. Singamalai (Lion’s Rock) loomed ahead as we left Kotagala and took a few turns. Galkanda Watta substation was before the Singamalai Tunnel and I switched on the video mode for two reasons. First, I had to keep this on video to relive the experience again and again. Secondly, I wanted to check how long it actually takes to cross the tunnel in a train, one of the mostly puzzled questions in my life. I was about to become Einstein and solve it.

In our walk, Sheham and I were directed by few workers on the railway towards a tea patch just before the tunnel saying that had the largest tea plant in SL. We went and saw this tea plant with a relatively thicker trunk but if this was the largest in SL, I simply didn’t know. You can see a picture of it on the report given at notes. Nevertheless, everybody in the area seems to believe this as the biggest tea plant in SL. The tunnel was coming up fast to meet us and I was anxiously waiting to get in. Just to let you know the engine driver confided in me that the Singimalai is also called “Duke’s Nose”. He’d read that in an old English article and said the article revealed this looked like a big, fat nose of a man and apparently this had got the name “Duke’s Nose” as a result.

Singamalai Tunnel aka No. 14 is 559.59m in length. In other words, 27 chains and 81 links. Inside of it fully occupied by bats and gulls whose nests are sold in hundreds, tens and thousands of rupees even though it’s forbidden by the law. We entered the belly of this huge rock python and were completely swallowed in no time. Despite the powerful headlights mounted on the top, there was very little we could see. The S12’s headlights are compared to German and Canadian Engines, positioned in a way that the railway line below is not so visible and they’re not as powerful. Maybe I’m wrong but I felt it like that coz those head lamps simply couldn’t penetrate the thick darkness inside the tunnel. We felt as if we were sliding through a sea of crude oil.

It took us 72 seconds (1 min 12 seconds) to cross the tunnel riding around 35km per hour. A sensational and maybe one in a lifetime experience came to an end just like that. I was mad with joy and even the two officers saw the experience in a different way and said that even they felt the joy I was feeling. We reached Hatton and stopped for a relatively longer time before continuing our journey towards Rozella where Ana’s Nest is located.

Ready to go

Ready to go

View through the side door

View through the side door

I'm like the engine driver

I’m like the engine driver

Closing in on the next tunnel

Closing in on the next tunnel

Here we go

Here we go

Got many like these while walking but not from the windscreen of a train

Got many like these while walking but not from the windscreen of a train

Lit up LCD panel in the dark

Lit up LCD panel in the dark

Out we come

Out we come

St. Claire nearby

St. Claire nearby

“Hi girlie, I'm driving this”

“Hi girlie, I’m driving this”

Full picture, wish you had more water sweet heart

Full picture, wish you had more water sweet heart

Approaching Kotagala

Approaching Kotagala

The emergency phone that connects the two engines at either end

The emergency phone that connects the two engines at either end

That yellow "Vigilance" button is very important.

That yellow “Vigilance” button is very important.

The bridge after Kotagala station, Ana has some old memories of this

The bridge after Kotagala station, Ana has some old memories of this

Singamalai aka Duke's Nose in the distance

Singamalai aka Duke’s Nose in the distance

No pics through Singamalai Tunnel but do check the video

No pics through Singamalai Tunnel but do check the video

There is Hatton

There is Hatton

Fast approaching

Fast approaching

No tablet

No tablet

Hatton to Nawalapitiya

 

We went keeping the A6 to our left since then and rode through 100-ft tall pine trees and abandoned carriages either side of the track. Ana lost his very valuable walking stick somewhere between Hatton and Rozella when we walked last time. The 7km stretch between Hatton and Rozella didn’t take long and we were aiming for the place where one of the M6s got buried itself closer to Watawala. Further, the assistant driver, who was the most experienced in upcountry line, informed me that there’s the place where the Mahaweli River flows uphill confirming Ana’s friends’ claims. Unfortunately it slipped all our minds as we had many things to talk about and realized it only when we had gone past the point.

We stopped at Ihala Watawala station that is not functioning anymore except to drop and pick up people from there. The issuing of tickets is not done here anymore and the railway department is waiting for someone to apply for a tender and get it off their hands. Good old Watawala Station was our next stop and after the usual tablet change, we headed towards the point where an M6 got buried. You can easily identify this and there’s a small Budu Medura built at the place. Apparently it had taken a long time to unearth the engine but they said the engine is still functioning perfectly. Such good our railway engineers really are. Unfortunately, we don’t use their expertise and skills to improve our railway system instead go crying for India to build our railway lines for exorbitant prices.

Between Rozella and Watawala, there’s a point where you can see the Seven Virgins Mountain to your left. It’s such a small gap between the hills on the foreground and according to the officers, on a clear day; you can clearly see the chipped rocky surface where the DC-8 crashed onto it head on. Unfortunately the mist only allowed us the silhouette of the mountain and nothing else. There was this thick forest area after Watawala and it’d’ve been so scary walking along this stretch all alone. The drivers told me that when the mist is so thick, they travel at a snail’s pace due to the poor visibility. It makes the journey very dangerous but little did the passengers know about these things and how careful they have to be to make sure no disasters take place. They said you can’t see more than a few feet ahead of you when it’s so thick and it gets worse going in the night with the mist. I could remember when Hari and I did the Great Western hike, we went in the night mail and between Nawalapitiya and Hatton; the train simply crawled going at maybe 5-10km an hour proving their claims.

Our next stop was Galboda where one of the most beautiful and popular waterfalls located about 2-3km away. Galboda boasts the water with the highest density in the whole of South Asia. When we visited the Galboda Falls in Feb, 2014 the water levels were so low and to make matters worse, there’s a water diversion as well. Just after Galboda is another engineering marvel of railway. The area is connected by two tunnels (No. 13 & 12) and two bridges followed next to each other. The No. 13 Tunnel was followed by a bridge connecting it to the No. 12 and then connecting via another bridge. They had linked two hills and two ravines using this technology. You can see the Tunnel No. 12 through the No. 13, a great picture.

Through them we passed Penrhos substation where Tony, Atha and I last had Bread and Polos Curry served by a kind lady at the shop during our hike. I mentioned this to the drivers and they were really pleased to hear that I had walked along this beautiful stretch. For them, it’s a good thing to admire the beauty of the scenic upcountry line. Passing that we reached the Hyndford substation. When I told them about the Sudugala Ella behind the station, none of them knew about it.

Next big moment came when we went through the bridge across Mahaweli River just before Nawalapitiya Station. The dusk was setting in and the poor lighting made it hard to take pictures and videos, not to mention the swaying of the train. After a long, thrilling and exciting journey we arrived at the Nawalapitiya Station and I bid my farewell to the Engine Driver and his assistant thanking them profusely for their courtesy extended to me.

Here we go

Here we go

More controls

More controls

Well, you know what it is

Well, you know what it is

Was careful not to touch any of these

Was careful not to touch any of these

Reverse and brake

Reverse and brake

More measurements

More measurements

To the left of the panel

To the left of the panel

What the driver gets to see

What the driver gets to see

Towards Rozella

Towards Rozella

The bridge and I've a pic of Ana and Sheham huffing and puffing along this.

The bridge and I’ve a pic of Ana and Sheham huffing and puffing along this.

Close by

Close by

Mixture of concrete and wooden sleepers

Mixture of concrete and wooden sleepers

Very familiar sight

Very familiar sight

Stopped at Ihala Watawala

Stopped at Ihala Watawala

Is that Hariya?

Yellow Shirt? Is that Hariya?

Another exchange

Another exchange

The sky blue train

The sky blue train

Out of the window

Out of the window

Isolated part before Galboda

Isolated part before Galboda

Close to Galboda

Close to Galboda

Here we are.

Here we are.

Leaving Galboda behind, the footpath to Galboda falls ia about 400m ahead and to the left

Leaving Galboda behind, the footpath to Galboda falls ia about 400m ahead and to the left

Just after the twin tunnels, no pics of them but check out the video collection

Just after the twin tunnels, no pics of them but check out the video collection

Inguru Oya nearby

Inguru Oya nearby

Here we are

Here we are

My beloved Lumia recording the whole thing, bridge across Mahaweli is there

My beloved Lumia recording the whole thing, bridge across Mahaweli is there

Another milestone

Another milestone

Nawalapitiya here I come

Nawalapitiya here I come

Getting darker

Getting darker

No point going beyond this in the dark

No point going beyond this in the dark

Well folks, that’s one long fairy tale for you to have worked on but the exhilaration of doing something I’d been dreaming was far too great.

I do hope I could take you too on the driving seat virtually and to top it all there’s a collection of videos that I’m sure you’ll enjoy and love.

Enjoy the videos and hope to see you again soon with another fairy tale.

Till then, be safe and keep travelling. This is Sri signing off for now.

Cheers…


ගවරා විසූ ගවරවිල (Gawarawila plains)

$
0
0
Year and Month February, 2015
Number of Days One
Crew 4 (Harinda, Chamara, Thenuka & myself)
Accommodation CTB bus
Transport Public transport, Train, bikes
Activities Hiking, Trekking, Waterfall hunting, Photography
Weather A mixture of Sunny and overcast weather conditions
Route Monaragala -> Badulla -> Hatton -> Maskeliya -> Gartmore -> Frogmore -> Maskeliya -> Ginigathena -> Karawanella -> Avissawella -> Colombo -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Wear attire suiting cold climates
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (1L per person) and food products.
  • Start as early as possible
  • This is one of those places where we found nothing left over by human beings so make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Need a guide if you don’t have a GPS
  • First bus from Maskeliya is at 5.50am
  • Ask road directions from locals
  • Leech protection is needed
  • Avoid overcast conditions(better to go there during February – April period)
  • Need a 4WD or bikes to get to the trail head
  • This belongs to peak wilderness sanctuary and legally you could be penalized for entering it.

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Mr Anil Vithanage for the details of the route

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Would you believe that if I said there is a mini Horton plains in the peak wilderness. Yes that’s true this beautiful savanna plain first came to my notice during an Adams peak hike in 2009 and after seen it for the second time in 2013 I started gathering information about this mysterious plains. Once there was a newspaper article but without any pictures of the plains and reading it urged me to explore this unseen territory some day in my life.  It is said a Bison like buffalo called “Gawara” once lived here long ago and hence the name Gwarawila was given. It is also said that once the Haldumulla route to Adams peak fell across this plains of Gawarawila too.

The map - click to enlarge

The map – click to enlarge

Google earth image

Google earth image

as seen from adams peak

as seen from Adams peak

zoomed

zoomed

On a Saturday I got on to the Colombo bound night mail train and arrived at Hatton to sleep on a chair until Chamara arrived by the Badulla bound night mail. From Hatton we took a Nallathanni bus and reached Maskeliya at around 3am and slept in a halted Gartmore CTB bus. The bus took off at around 6am and reached Gartmore estate at 7am. Since Harinda & his friend were coming from Colombo by bikes we had plenty of time to walk around this beautiful estate. We walked along the border of the tea estate while enjoying the splendid scenery towards Maskeliya reservoir. Finally we reached the plunging point of Adams peak falls where we rested for a while before returning back to the bus halt. After a one hour wait Harinda came on his bike and we took off towards Frogmore division ASAP. Initially we were bit lost within the tea estate but somehow with the aid of Google maps and advice from locals we found the correct route. A long ride on 4wd road took us to the forest boundary and the scenery on the way was just amazing. This is a place one would like to re visit at any given time. Just before entering the forest we had some breakfast at a stream with a shrine. Few hundred meters from this point the road ends and the foot path begins.

sun rise at maskeliya

sun rise at maskeliya

festivals

festivals

Gartmore estate

Gartmore estate

mode of transport & accommodation :-P

mode of transport & accommodation :-P

lovely

lovely

the reservoir

the reservoir

towards HP

towards HP

lighting up

lighting up

crowd along the trail

crowd along the trail

to be plucked

to be plucked

the two gartmore estate falls

the two gartmore estate falls

top most cascade of adams peak falls

top most cascade of adams peak falls

plunging down

plunging down

adams peak falls

adams peak falls

holy peak

holy peak

view from frogmore

view from frogmore

Gartmore falls falling from gawarawila

Gartmore falls falling from gawarawila

the fall which plunges down

the fall which plunges down

capturing

capturing

where the plain is located

where the plain is located

Actually it’s a 1km hike with a small ascend. One needs to cross the valley and get on to the plateau but this is not an easy task at all because of the undergrowth. We decided to follow the foot path and it paid off. Initially the foot path took us along the bank of a stream (bit higher up) and at one point we had to cross it. The crossing point was just like paradise and there was a wonderful pool to dip in but the freezing temperatures weren’t human friendly. After crossing the stream it was a gradual climb through Nelu and bamboo bushes. Surprisingly the path was cleared very well but at one point it suddenly disappeared. When we checked on Google maps we noted that we were 150m away from the plains. There was no other option other than creeping through the bushes and reaching our target. After 15 minutes we finally saw the plains through the branches and we did hurry to reach this heavenly location.

covered path

covered path

one of those beauties

one of those beauties

Common Rough-sided Snake

Common Rough-sided Snake

the path

the path

paradise

paradise

unknown

unknown

where samber rub there antlers

where samber rub there antlers

cleared uphill path

cleared uphill path

forest roof

forest roof

more flowers

more flowers

a mini break for harinda

a mini break for harinda

end of the path

end of the path

last bit

last bit

We were mesmerized with what we saw and delighted with our achievement. After sitting around a bit we started walking around. Though the plain was dry when we visited most of the year this is a muddy marshy land. So one needs to be careful when stepping around during the wet period. We reached the stream which could be found in the center of the plain and there were few gem pits which were abandoned few years back. This must have been an illegal gem mining paradise once. The problem is that there is a chance of accidentally falling in to one of these pits. If one camps they would be lucky to see herds of Samber here on early and late hours of the day. On a clear day Adams peak could be seen over the mountain forest but we were not fortunate enough to see it. The stream flows to the edge of the plateau and forms one of those Gartmore estate falls which could be seen from the summit of Adams peak.

wow the plain

wow the plain

this is what I wanted to witness

this is what I wanted to witness

cloud forest

cloud forest

Horton plains junior

Horton plains junior

staghorn clubmoss

staghorn clubmoss

 feeder of maskeli reservoir

feeder of maskeli reservoir

marshy land

marshy land

on a clear day adams peak could be seen (copyrights Mr anil)

on a clear day Adams peak could be seen (copyrights Mr Anil)

A pano

A pano

just like horton plains

just like horton plains

gem pits

gem pits

wow

wow

dreamland

dreamland

bit dried out

bit dried out

 towards the main peak

towards the main peak

what a scenery

what a scenery

more

more

young explorers :P

young explorers :-P

 this changes to green after april

this changes to green after april

the cut off line

the cut off line

 this is where the waterfall falls down

this is where the waterfall falls down

the colours

the colours

 tree tops

tree tops

three layers

three layers

and more

and more

found here and there

found here and there

After hanging around this magnificent landscape we decided to return back. And as expected it was not possible to find the path we came along. So we decided to traverse the dense forest by using Samber foot paths. We targeted the place where we crossed the stream and headed in that direction, after an exhausting one hour journey we reached the river and headed up stream to reach the way point. The walk along the stream was like walking in paradise. After reaching the crossing point we had “Dosai” as lunch and backtracked along the foot path until we reached the tea estate. Ah I almost forgot there were few leeches here and there that troubled us intermittently. After reaching the tea estate we washed ourselves from the stream close to the shrine and took off towards Colombo on bikes. It was one of those tiring days for me but somehow on the same day I had to return back to Monaragala for work. This was one of those dreamily adventures I would cherish for many years and I’m sorry that I had to leave behind few Lakdasun friends who wanted to do the same.

bit of adventure actually this was the end part of the 2 hour lost session

bit of adventure actually this was the end part of the 2 hour lost session

the main stream

the main stream

 a cascade

a cascade

like a privet garden pond

like a privet garden pond

along the stream

along the stream

another one

another one

 Gordonia speciosa

Gordonia speciosa

pure red

pure red

happy faces

happy faces

where we were

where we were

a cool dip

a cool dip

team picture near the shrine

team picture near the shrine

Indian Fritillary

Indian Fritillary

Gartmore no 2 falls

Gartmore no 2 falls

crossing the bridge

crossing the bridge

15-Feb, Alagalla (1148m) day hike!

$
0
0
Year and Month February, 2015
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 02 People (Me & Murtaza)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public transportation
  • Colombo to Kadugannawa – Bus
  • Kadugannawa to Pilimathalawa – Bus
  • Pilimathalawa to Polaththapitiya Tea Factory – Tuk (LKR 550.00)
  • Gangoda to Ihalakotte – Train
  • Ihalakotte to Colombo – Badulla Colombo inbound train
Activities Hiking, photography, getting lost intentionally
Weather Awesome weather! (Not a single drop of rain)
Route Colombo -> Udawalawa -> Thanamalvila – >Wellawaya And return on Wellawaya -> Koslanda -> Haputale -> Balangoda -> Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark Transportation
  •  Commencing the trail
    • If you wish to commence the trail arriving by bus get down from Pilimathalawa clock tower junction from where the road to Polaththapitiya can be accessed
    • As per to the locals there are plenty of busses to Polaththapitiya (Bus route is Kandy – Polaththapitiya)
    • However during weekends, specially on Sundays, you may find it difficult to find a bus
    • Tuk fare from Pilimathalawa clock tower junction to Polaththapitiya tea factory was LKR 550.00 (We felt a little overcharged)
  • Heading back home
    • On our way back we took a diversion from the usual route and ended up reaching the Gangoda train station though our intention was to reach Ihalakotte train station
    • Gangoda train station is a secondary station hence the main line trains (such as Kandy, Badulla & Colombo inbound trains will not stop there)
    • From Ihalakotte train station you can catch a train to Colombo, Badulla or Kandy

Food and water during the trail

  •  Refill your water provisions from the estate houses located closer to the Polaththapitiya tea factory
  • There were no other water source visible during the trail
  • Provided the weather is brilliant you will be exposed to direct sunlight hence a minimum of 02ltrs of drinking water is recommended per person
  • You may need to buy food from the town beforehand since there weren’t any shops on the trail

Preparations and safety during the trail

  • NOT RECCOMENDED FOR SOLO HIKERS
  • Final ascend to the summit is not at all recommended during drizzles or any other rainy day since the rock face may become extremely slippery
  • If you decide on ascending through the rocks and the cracks, stop and analyze first. Be cautious and take it slow and steady
  • Carry sufficient amount of water since there is less shade during this trail hence you will be directly exposed to the sun most of the time
  • A hat or any other sun block
  • There will be areas with “Maana” bushes where you will need to walk through them (long sleeves, hiking pants recommended – Yours to decide)
  • Kindly avoid littering
Author Thinuwan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

A much awaited trip! Me and my good old hiking buddy Murtaza (matz), with whom I went to Great Western a couple of years back, were eagerly looking forward for this hike since a long time. But since the both of us were not able to find time this topic was dragging on and on endlessly until the last weekend, Sunday the 15th of Feb.

After a quick discussion with matz the other day, on Saturday, we decided that we’ll be taking the bus to Kadugannawa at 06:00 hrs from Colombo from where we have planned to reach Polaththapitiya tea factory. Upon getting down from Kadugannawa at 08:40 hrs we had breakfast at a shop nearby the station and was told that we have a more likely chance of catching transportation to Polaththapitiya from Pilimathalawa rather than from Kadugannawa since there are like only 02 busses operate at the moment and given the fact that it was a Sunday we may forever be waiting for a bus where as the driver is still fast asleep back home 

Hence we once again checked with the Kadugannawa bus station master and was soon on our way to Pilimathalawa by bus. Upon getting down from Pilimathalawa we waited at the respective bus station for almost 30 minutes after which we decided to pool-in and to hire a tuk without wasting our time doing nothing but waiting for the bus. (We were told that there are more than 100+ busses towards Polaththapitiya but I guess since it was a Sunday, the chances were less)

The trishaw driver was an interesting person. He is working as a lab assistant in Colombo Medical Faculty and during the weekend he drives his trishaw back home in the Pilimathalawa vicinity. Also from him we got to know that a welfare fee of LKR 50,000.00 is required to pay by any new trishaw driver who would like to have a spot in the Pilimathalawa trishaw stand! (Just in case if any lakdasun members were considering on this opportunity)

So after a bumpy ride we arrived at the Polaththapitiya tea factory and commenced the trail towards Alagalla.

During the initial part of the trail you will be walking on a gravel road amidst the tea plantations, the estate workers community residences and a number of breathtaking view points with awesome sceneries as well. As you move on, the trail will become slightly more ascending and the path will lead you directly to a tea plantation. With a bref ascend you will reach your first forest patch where you will be required to ascend through the dense in a more challenging pace. A number of tree roots and washed up boulders will welcome you with a nice smile as you may wonder why you find it difficult to ascend 

After clearing the forest patch you will reach the lower section of the Alagalla where (at the time of our visit) you will find a barren land with burnt “maana” bushes scattered all over the place. The ground appears to be on a gradual ascending elevation with rock debris all over the place which you are sure to trample if you do not watch where you step. To your left you will be able to identify quite a number of well known mountains such as the Hantane range, Bible rock and Uthuwankanda as well. Also, alongside the steep drop on the same side you will be able to locate the Ihalakotte train station and the railway track which winds its way around and through the mountain side as it progresses gradually gaining ground and elevation.

Matz on the move towards the summit

Matz on the move towards the summit

Matz on the move towards the summit

Matz on the move towards the summit

Time for a pano!

Time for a pano!

Alagalla summit seen from our first resting point

Alagalla summit seen from our first resting point

After a short break under a weary tree by a boulder, where once upon a time matz have spent a daring night all by himself camping under showers, we decided to go ahead with the tiring and the risky part of the hike.

Matz reliving the moment back from the days

Matz reliving the moment back from the days

You can see a train has stopped at the Ihalakotte train station

You can see a train has stopped at the Ihalakotte train station

The rock face climb! All went well since we put a lot of time to it, premeditating our moves up all the way up till the summit of Alagalla.

Matz on the move

Matz on the move

A bit of a light through the scrambled boulders

A bit of a light through the scrambled boulders

View from our half way resting point

View from our half way resting point

At the top it definitely was a rewarding 360 degree view! Thanks to the awesome weather we were able to have a good look at the landscape from the summit before heading back down

Going pano from the summit of Alagalla

Going pano from the summit of Alagalla

Awesome click by Matz

Awesome click by Matz

Matz getting ready for a descend

Matz getting ready for a descend

Our next destination

Our next destination

Before deciding to head back down the same rock face we wanted to check if it’s possible to descend from the later part of it. However after analyzing the face we’ve come to realize that it is a risk which is not worth taking, hence we decided on getting down through the same rocks that we climbed up from. Once the difficult part has been cleared we decided to sit on the ledge and have our lunch (bun with pre-BBQ chicken). After a much anticipated meal approx around 13:00 hrs we were heading back down. Luckily we were greeted by a group of local individuals who were on their way up for “fun”. We took the advantage of it and inquired from them about alternate routes available that would lead us directly down to the Ihalakotte train station since we did not want to get back on the same route we have climbed up from.

Heading down the boulders

Heading down the boulders

Heading down the boulders

Heading down the boulders

Taking a break after the lunch

Taking a break after the lunch

With the instructions and the directions received we were soon on our way around the rock (rock was towards our right side) alongside the impressive, inviting rock face which has quite the potential for a nice rock climbing session! (maybe some other time since we were not prepared for such). The trail appeared to be somewhat abandoned and there were plenty of random footpaths all the way. It was not until sometime that we realized the fact that we are now on the second mountain side at which we were grooling at from the summit of Alagalla. Remembering what the locals mentioned about, a “temple/shrine being built on the other rock” we decided to explore the land before taking the road down to the station as intended. After a brief walk through the forest patch and a little hopping over the rocks we arrived at the construction site.

On our way through the forest patch

On our way through the forest patch

 

.

.

Time for a short break

Time for a short break

The so called construction appears to be abandoned and the area has been deserted.

However we were intrigued by the great foot print that is being carved on the rock face which accompanies a few of the ancient “paali” inscriptions alongside 

the ancient “paali” inscriptions alongside (Highlighted in the picture with a red color box)

the ancient “paali” inscriptions alongside (Highlighted in the picture with a red color box)

Since there were few individuals who were admiring the view at a distance we decided to approach them and to inquire about the findings. The group of people introduced themselves to us as “villagers who are in-charge of building the temple and the authority of the village”. As per to them their intention is to “protect the environment” and “develop the tourism sector” in the area. For some reason I didn’t buy any of the explanations or the stories they told us because it all seemed to me a “little out of the place” and “dodgy” (Maybe it’s just me). However later, my suspicion grew stronger when they confessed “earlier we lied to you. We are not in charge of building the construction. We are from a local environment committee here to make a report about the pollution on this mountain range. We lied to you earlier because we were not sure about who you (me and matz) people are” Anyway we didn’t give out much and decided to move on.

The mysterious foot-print

The mysterious foot-print

After receiving few directions from the group we were soon on our way down. The trail heading down was mostly boulders and uneven ground covered with dry leaves and earth debris. Later on we came across a chain of man-made concrete steps which gave me the thought that “this could become a place like Adams Peak given a couple of years, when the temple is being built at the top in honor of the foot print that is claimed to be carved back in the kings-days in preparation for Lord Buddha’s visit to the mountain side which didn’t go as planned” (Please correct me if more information is available about the foot-print since this was a new piece of knowledge for me and also on the 16th Feb when I informed Ashan about this he claims that it is his foot print! LOL)

The concrete steps being built. Reminded us of Adams Peak quite often

The concrete steps being built. Reminded us of Adams Peak quite often

The concrete steps being built. Reminded us of Adams Peak quite often

The concrete steps being built. Reminded us of Adams Peak quite often

The concrete steps being built. Reminded us of Adams Peak quite often

The concrete steps being built. Reminded us of Adams Peak quite often

Descending through the maana filled terrain and the occasional chain of concrete steps we arrived at a rubber plantation. We were basically following the footpath hoping that we would end up at the rail track or at the Ihalakotte station itself J We’ve been descending for more than 2 hours and yet the ground level seems to be way down and there was no end to the descend. We kept on following the path through the rubber plantation and we met a couple of locals who directed us towards a “short-cut”. They did give us a warning saying that the road is not cleared so watch out or you may get lost. And yes we were lost J After walking back and forth on the foot path for a while we decided to just go down with or without a path. By now matz have developed a little bit of a greed for bananas after passing by a couple of banana trees in the vicinity. Later he decided to let go of it since he felt that it will not be nice to go ahead with the greed :-)

Came across this house so we thought of asking for directions from the locals

Came across this house so we thought of asking for directions from the locals

Yep even the residents of the house were saying that we are “lost”

Yep even the residents of the house were saying that we are “lost”

.

.

Afterwards we came across another house! This is the front view of the house. Later we assumed that it is some sort of a worshipping place or a “dewalaya” due to all the red color cloth strips and the garlends and all. But then again even this building appeared to be abandoned sometime back and felt a little spooky too P :-)

We took the well paved way assuming it is the correct path but nope! Just a few yards down that path it was a dead end so yeah, again, off road it was :-)

The well paved path

The well paved path

.

.

So we dashed our way down and finally around 18:00 hrs ended up walking through a number of village houses. We were under the assumption that we have reached Ihalakotte but to find out we are in the Gangoda vicinity (01 station before Ihalakotte). Upon reaching the village we were greeted by a number of welcoming villages and with the information received about the transportation possibilities we walked down the road towards the train station.

.

.

After evaluating our current condition and with the supportive information received from the station master at the Gangoda train station we decided to head 01 station up, to Ihalakotte and board the Badulla – Colombo inbound train from there back home.

Gangoda bridge

Gangoda bridge

Note that from the Gangoda train station you will not be able to board a train to Colombo or to Badulla. Closest train station is Ihalakotte (approx 2-3 km away, includes 3 tunnels)

All and all it was a pretty good entertaining trip and looking forward to go back for a little daring adventure along with a camping session :-)

 

New Year Rituals in Uva – Tour de Waterfalls 17…

$
0
0
Year and Month 04-05 Jan, 2015
Number of Days 2
Crew Lasantha and Me
Accommodation Lasantha’s Place, Nugathalawa.
Transport By Bus, on foot, by tuk-tuk and train
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Relaxing, etc…
Weather Excellent.
Route Day 01

Maharagama->Kumbalwela->Ella->Kithal Ella->Ella->Bambaragama Ella->Badulla->Dunhinda Ella->Badulla->Welimada.

Day 02

Welimada->Perawella->Uduhawara->Ambagasdowa->Lunuwatte->Welimada->Bandarawela->Colombo.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • These roads are deadly dangerous due to landslides during the heavy showers.
  • Trying to climb up or bathe is risky and not recommended.
  • You have to walk from Ella towards Kithal Ella along the railway track to view the Ravana Ella.
  • Many confuse between Ravana Ella located at Kithal Ella and along Ella-Wellawaya Road. The correct Ravana Ella is at Kithal Ella and the other is called Bambaragama Ella. Some may even refer them to Upper Ravana and Lower Ravana (Bambaragama).
  • Bus service from Welimada to Bomburu Ella aka Perawella are good but not so frequent. It varies from half hour to one hour.
  • To go the Ravan Ella, you can either take the Bomburu Ella Bus and take 1-1.5km walk or get a Korandekumbura Bus straight from Welimada.
  • Mana Ella is about 1-1.5km off Lunuwatte along Welimada-Udu Pussellawa Road.
  • Read my previous reports of Bomburu Ella, Mana Ella and Ravan Ella for more information.
  • Protect the nature and don’t litter.
  • Bring back only the memories and pictures.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

2014 has seen a flurry of waterfall hunts thanks to the unexpected heavy rainfalls. I didn’t miss even a slight opportunity go see these wonderful creatures of the Mother Nature. I finished the year with another waterfall hunt in and around Nanu Oya & Nuwara Eliya that took the total tally to 16 (being only 5 shy of the Tour de France stages). What better way to open your account in the New Year other than with waterfalls. I had to see some of those sexy girls in 2015 as well so called one of my long-time friends, Lasantha whose hometown is Welimada. I’d already done a few visits to Welimada before but the heavy showers in December brought another opportunity which I grabbed with both hands.

So on the 4th Jan, Duruthu Poya Day, around 3.00am I woke Lasantha and joined him to wait for a Badulla bus. After about half hour there came a blue-stickered semi-luxury bus. Have any of you wondered what the difference between Normal and Semi-Luxury is? We’re paying some one and half the usual fee for nothing, as far as I can see. This has turned into a big rip off and wonder who on earth had come up with this shoddy idea of semi-luxury. They’re not even going fast but stop everywhere to pick up people.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Ravana Ella, Kital Ella.
  2. Bambaragama Ella, Ella.
  3. Dunhinda Ella, Badulla.
  4. Dunhinda Mini Falls, Badulla.
  5. Lower Bomburu Ella, Perawella.
  6. Bomburu Ella, Perawella.
  7. Ravan Ella, Uduhawara.
  8. Mana Ella, Lunuwatte.

Day 01

Now that I’ve taken it off my chest, let’s see what was in store for me upon arriving in Kumbalwela where the Ella-Wellawaya Road begins. It had gone 8am, much later than I’d planned but there was hardly anything I could do about the crawling bus, when we reached Kumbalwela and waited for a bus to get us to Ella. The under construction road was full of dust and waiting proved to be a huge challenge but after it felt like an eternity, there was a bus and we got in quickly.

My efforts to catch up on sleep became futile so had a tough time waiting till we reached Belihul Oya for breakfast. Pan Cake just out of the oven washed down with ginger-flavored plain tea brought the active adventurer in me. From there the journey became more pleasant. The Walawe Valley stretched into miles with vivid colors. Finally around 8.30am, we reached Kumbalwela and got off the bus. Then it was another sometime before a bus arrived for us to get to Ella.

Ravana Ella

We jumped out of the bus as it went through the tunnel where the railway line is overhead. We then got onto the railway line hoping to walk towards Kital Ella some close to 2km away. However, it wasn’t to be as I heard a deep rumble coming from the railway line ahead at a bend and ran for cover. There was no train even after about 5 mins and was wondering where on earth it went when it dawned on me that the train services were curtailed at Nanu Oya due to landslides.

Oh dear, what was coming then, I panicked but my anxiety got the better of me and went parallel to see what was making such a noise. At the corner, peering like a frightened deer, I saw a JCB travelling about along the railway line. What the world has come to was my immediate thought but looking closer I realized it was simply removing the earth and rubble off the railway line. Feeling relieved we took a detour and got to the railway line on the other side and walked towards Kital Ella.

About half a km into the journey, we could see the Ravana Ella falling beautifully in the far. Compared to last time when we saw her during My First Rail Hike, the water level was rich and healthy but not as much as I’d hoped for. We kept going up stopping here and there to take pictures when the opportunity arose. As usual, there were many foreigners taking a stroll along the railway line. Ella is a very hotspot for foreigners and they usually walk along the railway line to climb the Ella Rock.

We reached the railway bridge just before the Kital Ella station and got down to see the falls that gave us a side angle. The trees and their branches did everything to prevent us from taking her picture but Lasantha managed to keep them away while I took the photographs. The jumping upper section was like a tail of a cockerel and we enjoyed this beauty. I wish we could get to the base of but it’d’ve taken the whole day and still not sure if it was possible either.

So after a few minutes of shooting, we headed back towards Ella in the scorching sun hoping to catch a bus to go see one of the most popular and photographed falls in Sri Lanka, Bambaragama Ella.

JCB on railway lines

JCB on railway lines

Dear me!

Dear me!

In the distance

In the distance

Like a saree

Like a saree

Closer

Closer

Top

Top

Bottom

Bottom

Cover ups

Cover ups

Oh managed to clear it

Oh managed to clear it

Going for a stroll

Going for a stroll

Distant hills

Distant hills

Hi buddy!

Hi buddy!

Bridge where you have to get down to the left

Bridge where you have to get down to the left

Side view

Side view

Can see very little

Can see very little

Wish the view was from the front

Wish the view was from the front

The ground beyond

The ground beyond

Better to stay away

Better to stay away

The top of her

The top of her

Through the hut

Through the hut

One of those lovely cottages closer to Ella

One of those lovely cottages closer to Ella

Bambaragama Ella

We were lucky to find a CTB bus going towards Hambanthota but were surprised when the writing on the bus said that it belonged to Panadura Depot. After a brief conversation with the conductor, I found out that they were going to Hambanthota for transporting people to election rallies. We got off at Bambaragama Ella to find a lot of people already shooting away as if this was the only fall in Sri Lanka. This is one of the most commonly visited and photographed falls in Sri Lanka due to its location, just by the road towards Wellawaya. Similarly the falls like Devon, St. Claire (now the St. Claire Rock), Ramboda Centre and Diyaluma are popular due to their strategic locations.

Unlike the video shown on TV a few days ago, a brownish body of water falling ferociously was no longer there. Instead what we saw was a very beautiful and pristine white beauty falling majestically along the rocks creating a few prominent cascades on the way. Even though she’s on the roadside I’ve only seen her a few times and the most recent before this time was a couple of years ago.

The sign informing about the number of people who had died attempting to either bath or climb up the slippery rocks was horrifying yet you can still see people trying the very same thing. The right hand side of the falls where people usually try to get up is now blocked with a metal fence and we saw a few police officers keep a close eye out for anyone trying to be heroic. There were a couple of foreigners trying to get up a rock closer to the base and get a few pictures of the falls and the police officers quickly went and warned them.

This one is also called Ravana Ella Lower Falls due to maybe due to its location.

I even saw a cluster of butterflies feeding on the wet earth looking for the daily mineral dosage I guess. After spending about an hour enjoying the beauty of her, we got into a Badulla-bound bus.

Feeling ravenous

Feeling ravenous

Felt sorry for the fella

Felt sorry for the fella

Mighty Bambaragama

Mighty Bambaragama

Not overflowing

Not overflowing

Towards the top

Towards the top

Lower part

Lower part

Lower cascades

Lower cascades

Upper most, couldn't reach there

Upper most, couldn’t reach there

Portrait

Portrait

Mid-section

Mid-section

Full package

Full package

Distant hills

Distant hills

The mighty gap

The mighty gap

Feeding on the earth

Feeding on the earth

Three Muskateers

Three Muskateers

Look at the shadows

Look at the shadows

Enjoying the play time

Enjoying the play time

Sun was forcing

Sun was forcing

Lower cascades

Lower cascades

That looks like a gate put up to discourage adventurous folks

That looks like a gate put up to discourage adventurous folks

Enjoying the beauty

Enjoying the beauty

Towering rock

Towering rock

Dunhinda Ella & Dunhinda Mini Falls

The next in line was another sexy girl in Sri Lanka. She’s also one of the mostly visited one by almost everybody and very popular among locals and foreigners alike. Originated by Badulu Oya, she’s located along Badulla-Mahiyangana Road some 5-6km from Badulla Town. We arrived in Badulla past 1pm feeling ravenous. Going into a shop, we had a very lousy meal but as it pampered our hunger, we came and got into an overflowing bus to Mahiyangana.

The conductor had a tough time coming from the front to the back through the packed crowd. We got off at the Dunhinda turn off to find the whole area had been washed down by the intermittent rains. A large area closer to the entrance had been slipped and a couple of houses were at the brink of falling towards the road. Those people must’ve had a pretty scary time.

We entered the isolated path that are bordered by the shops selling stuff like Belimal, Kitul Flour & Jaggery, Juices and various other typical products. However the lack of crowds recently has discouraged most of the shop owners and many of them were closed. We walked on and compared to my previous visit which was more than 2 years ago, the path is now in very good condition with more added cement steps and bridges. It was late afternoon and we met a few people returning from the falls. The lady at the ticketing counter was half asleep and we woke her and bought tickets for just Rs. 10/- each.

A short walk brought us to the vicinity of the observation point where you could get a grand view of the Dunhinda Mini Falls but now it’s almost completely obscured by the trees. One can instead go up the path towards the newly built toilets. From there you can get a good view. We actually found this out on our return from the main falls.

The path had been slipped in many parts but repaired by the authorities remarkably. We could hear the distant roar of the Mini Falls but as I mentioned above, we had no way of getting a good look at her at first so decided to carry on towards her big sister. The path was shady and protected us from the unforgiving sun. It’s about 1.5km hike to the falls and when getting closer to her, the roar of her falling became deafening and I was impatient to go there.

Climbing down some steps closer to a shop gave me the first glimpse of this wonderful creation of the Mother Nature. She was simply awesome and her usual white wrap had a few brownish smudges to show that she’d been very naughty in the recent past. The opening of the rock where she jumps out into the base is very narrow and the pressure at the point must’ve been enormous. This huge body of water kept pushing at great speeds to try and get to the bottom before the rest creating this gorgeous flow of water.

We practically ran downhill till we stopped abruptly as we entered the viewing platform. The lush green forest patch was to the left of the falls bathed in afternoon golden brown rays. The wet grey rocky surface glistened in the sun reflecting nicely. In the center of was this big fat body of white water with a tinge of brownish mud. Millions of water drops sprayed the whole area and a rainbow added color to the picture. To top it all, the sky above the tree line turned into royal blue with a few patches of clouds.

We spent quite a lot of time with her taking zillions of pictures. The whole platform was empty as the visitors had left by the time we arrived and only the shop owner at the platform was keeping this girl company. We had a very pleasant time with her but finally Lasantha remembered that we had to go home and the day being a Poya and the ever-heating election campaign made things too hot for us. So we decided to bid farewell and head home.

On the way back, I was feeling so low as there was no better picture of the Mini Falls when I noticed the uphill footpath closer to the entrance that leads to the toilets. Just on an impulse I ran up to see the beautiful but muddier looking Mini Falls. She was looking angry and dangerous but we were safe far away on the trail.

Things to see in Uva

Things to see in Uva

Just heavenly colors

Just heavenly colors

Little Dunhinda

Little Dunhinda

Closer view

Closer view

That coconut leaf covered the pic

That coconut leaf covered the pic

Almost abandoned

Almost abandoned

Well-built paths

Well-built paths

Views

Views

More to go

More to go

Walking briskly

Walking briskly

No visitors

No visitors

First glimpse

First glimpse

Closer

Closer

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Just getting down

Just getting down

Base

Base

There she is over the roof of the shop

There she is over the roof of the shop

Sexy lady

Sexy lady

Couldn't wait to get closer

Couldn’t wait to get closer

Muddy top

Muddy top

Mid-section

Mid-section

Base

Base

Cloud of drops

Cloud of drops

Just look at the contrast of the colors

Just look at the contrast of the colors

Could stay looking at her forever

Could stay looking at her forever

Almost like Nuwara Eliya

Almost like Nuwara Eliya

No business

No business

Gigantic rocky boulders

Gigantic rocky boulders

Let's go back

Let’s go back

Trying to get a clearer view of the Little sister

Trying to get a clearer view of the Little sister

Some clear shots

Some clear shots

Muddy top

Muddy top

The river uphill

The river uphill

One of my favourites

One of my favourites

We managed to get into a bus as we came out onto the road and reached Badulla around 3.30pm. Without wasting time, we immediately got on board a Nuwara Eliya bus that goes via Welimada. Between Hali Ela and Atampitiya we saw more than hundred earth slips had occurred, most of which were pretty big ones. There were a few cascades too. We saw the area which will be affected by the Uma Oya Project and most of the people had left their houses and it looked very much like a ghost haunted area.

Arriving at Welimada, just as we suspected, the traffic got stuck in an election rally but thankfully it wasn’t a long wait. Finally we reached Lasantha’s home to be welcomed by his mother warmly. It was pretty cold but despite that we had a bath and with a steaming cup of coffee rested our tired feet on the settee while reflected on the day’s events.

The TV was rubbish with so many useless election advertisements and after a warm meal; we decided to close shop for the day.

Day 02

After a dreamless night, I got up to yet another glorious day. As if on cue, Lasantha’s mother brought the morning tea and I got ready quickly as there were many plans for the day lined up. Lasantha was as usual very lazy to get up and I spent the time picturing a pair of giant squirrels who kept bounding from one branch to the other.

The breakfast was delicious and Lasantha made one of his signature egg omelette for us to take with sliced bread. I was planning to get back to Colombo on the same day, pretty hectic schedule but simply couldn’t afford a leave at the time. So we said good-bye to Lasantha’s mother and walked through bean fields to the main road to get a bus to Welimada.

Lasantha's mother's handy work

Lasantha’s mother’s handy work

More

More

Kissable

Kissable

Lovable too

Lovable too

Hi Pinky!

Hi Pinky!

Another favorite

Another favorite

Tail of the fella

Tail of the fella

Gotcha

Gotcha

Note the pink nose

Note the pink nose

Cute darling

Cute darling

Farmlands

Farmlands

Divurumpola Temple

Divurumpola Temple

Crops

Crops

To the earth

To the earth

Bean stalks

Bean stalks

Lower Bomburu Ella & Bomburu Ella

I’ve visited Bomburu Ella before, with Lasantha and two of my other friends some time ago but I wanted once again to visit this beauty. I can remember Ashan referred to her once as the Mother of all Waterfalls. We took the Bomburu Ella bus from Welimada Clock Tower Bus Stand (not the main one) and it left around 10.30am towards Bomburu Ella passing the Ambagasdowa where the road splits into two. The left one goes to Bomburu Ella aka Perawella while the right one goes to Lunuwaththa and then continues onto Nuwara Eliya via Udu Pussellawa. The Bomburu Ella road winds up passing Perawella village and then joins the Welimada-Nuwara Eliya main road just below Haggala Garden. So if you’re coming from Nuwara Eliya (just like Hasitha did after my visit) you can take that road can come straight to Bomburu Ella.

Don’t be confused by the terms of Bomburu Ella and Perawella as they both are one and the same. People refer to Bomburu Ella as Perawella Ella too. However the bus says Bomburu Ella. As usual the bus is full and you’re forced to offer your seat to the more needy people. The bus also acts as the transport method for the villagers vegetables so there will be many of them stacked up on seats especially when coming from Bomburu Ella to Welimada. There are two buses going from Bomburu Ella to Nuwara Eliya in the morning but we couldn’t get the exact times. They take the road that leads to Haggala.

It took closer to an hour for the bus to get to the Bomburu Ella village, well it’s the last stop and now there are ample sign postings. If you can remember my previous journey to Ravan Ella, the turn off to her is also along Bomburu Ella road but one has to go straight towards Korandekumbura at the Uduhawara Junction. If you’re going from Welimada, you can easily take the Korandekumbura bus from the same place as Bomburu Ella one. We got off at Bomburu Ella and then started walking along the irrigation channel that brings water to the paddy fields from Bomburu Ella.

There were a couple of cascades on the way. The path to the waterfall is now cleared and wide. They have even added another pipeline. It wasn’t there when we visited last time. After a km or so, we came to this clearing where there was a nice waterfall to our right. Looking closer, she was pretty big and I was wondering if the Bomburu Ella has changed shape but found this to be the Lower Bomburu Ella. All this time, she’s been hidden among the trees but recent expansion on the trail has brought her into the open.

She was in fact two falls merged into one. There was the wide upper section with a height of about 30ft and then the lower cascade falling to the right of the edge with a similar height. We spent some time there and took pictures. She was a new find and when the rains were in full force, I don’t think anyone could’ve even used the path to go any further due to the ferocity of the water.

Afterwards, we climbed up to go see the big sister of her that is one gorgeous lady. Coming into the view of the falls made me gasped. The sight of her simply mesmerized me and I have no words to express the sheer beauty unfolded. She was falling in three prominent parts but the whole area looked as if covered by a transparent white cloth. The greenery patch to the right was covered by the water drops and sun was appearing up in the sky brightening the atmosphere. Amid this wide and tall silky white wrap were the shining rocks, lush green bushes, and towering chunks of boulders, glamorous blue sky and the endless sound of the water flowing downhill.

I wanted to be lost in this paradise, not for a few days but forever. However, the two friendly farmers who were here when we came last time had disappeared along with their farms. The former vegetable plots had been abandoned leaving just the grassy patches. We finally made up our minds to say goodbye to this gorgeous lady and be on our way to another within close proximity.

Signage at the entrance

Signage at the entrance

Beginning of the farming season

Beginning of the farming season

Lush green

Lush green

Love the colors

Love the colors

Towards Haggala

Towards Haggala

Beginning of the path

Beginning of the path

Rotting away

Rotting away

Abandoned vegetable plots

Abandoned vegetable plots

We had a tough time crossing this last visited but this bridge helps a lot now

We had a tough time crossing this last visited but this bridge helps a lot now

First of the cascades

First of the cascades

Closer

Closer

Twisted

Twisted

Another set

Another set

Goes downhill

Goes downhill

Closer

Closer

Left one

Left one

To the right

To the right

Two pipelines

Two pipelines

Just getting closer to the Lower Falls

Just getting closer to the Lower Falls

Royal Blue, Pristine White, Lush Green & Menacing Grey

Royal Blue, Pristine White, Lush Green & Menacing Grey

Upper part

Upper part

Here's the lower one

Here’s the lower one

In fact two segments

In fact two segments

Lower part is clear

Lower part is clear

Upper part

Upper part

Mid-section

Mid-section

Lower part

Lower part

Time to go see the big sister

Time to go see the big sister

Leaking pipelines

Leaking pipelines

Last steps before the falls

Last steps before the falls

Dam constructed mid way

Dam constructed mid way

Closer now

Closer now

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Mother of All Falls?

Mother of All Falls?

Unbelievable

Unbelievable

What a view

What a view

All around is simply breath-taking

All around is simply breath-taking

Silken veils

Silken veils

One of the best scenes I've ever seen

One of the best scenes I’ve ever seen

Upper most

Upper most

The bottom

The bottom

View from the abandoned vegetable plots

View from the abandoned vegetable plots

Closer

Closer

What would she be like when in full flow?

What would she be like when in full flow?

Go see another

Go see another

Ravan Ella

We came back to Bomburu Ella where the bus stops. While waiting for it, we enjoyed a soft drink and after a short wait came the bus. Usually the directions to Ravan Ella is go along Korandekumbura Road passing Uduhawara (remember you have to turn left when coming from Welimada to go to Bomburu Ella) about 3-4km before turning to the left for another km or so hike. However, we found another short cut this time thanks to the villagers in the bus.

We got off at a place about 2-3km from Bomburu Ella and took the left concrete road that leads to the Ravan Ella. Unfortunately it has escaped my mind the name they refer to this place (some kind of a Post such as 2nd Post – Deke Kanuwa). We then started the downhill walk along the concrete paved bit but only the first few meters were concreted, another of so-called Village Development Project. The road was bordered by an irrigational canal to our left and to the right was the huge expanse of paddy fields running as far as the eye can see.

We walked closer to 1.5km before arriving at the base of the falls where it merged with the previously taken road. It’s hard to give the directions but the villagers are very helpful and will show you the way happily. The sight of her simply blew our minds away. Compared to last time, there was many times water and it was a big rotund body of water flowing straight down to the base with a fiery crash sending thousands of water droplets into the air covering the whole area.

We spent some time as usual being watched by a curious father and son wondering if this was a shooting of a mega drama. We took as many pictures as possible and took the path I did last time and reached the Korandekumbura Road around 3pm. Apparently there’s no bus service from Korandekumbura to Welimada after 3pm so we had to resort to a tuk-tuk and managed to convince a guy for Rs. 600/- to take us all the way to Ambagasdowa.

Fortunately for us as we were getting to Uduhawara Junction, there was a bus coming from Bomburu Ella and the tuk-tuk driver asked us to take the bus as it was cheaper. Thanking him we got into the bus and reached Ambagasdowa. From there another bus took us to Lunuwatte, on our way to the last of the destinations, Mana Ella.

To the infinity

To the infinity

Another angle

Another angle

Bean plots

Bean plots

Can you see the falls in the distance?

Can you see the falls in the distance?

There she is

There she is

The downhill journey of the water

The downhill journey of the water

Not a clear view

Not a clear view

A whole lot better compared to my previous visit

A whole lot better compared to my previous visit

Upper part

Upper part

And the lower

And the lower

Top most

Top most

Base pool

Base pool

Portrait

Portrait

Like a leaf

Like a leaf

Bidding farewell

Bidding farewell

Mana Ella

You can take either Udupussellawa Bus or ideally Lucky Land Bus that’ll take you right up to the falls. We took Udupussellawa bus and got off passing the Lunuwatte town near a Bo Tree with a left hand road. This is the Lucky Land bus takes and getting off we decided to walk downhill towards the falls. It’s about 1km walk along the road passing a Kovil on the left.

When you reach a bridge with another small Kovil to the left just passing the bridge (the stream that goes underneath creates the Mana Ella), well you’ve reached the turn off to the falls. To your right is an estate road bordered with tea and turpentine trees. Take this and walking a bit you’ll see a pond like water collection to the right. This is the water coming under the bridge collected by daming it at the top of the falls.

Walk further up till you reach a forked junction (Y junction). Take the downhill right hand path and if you keep a close eye, there’s a footpath through the turpentine patch that runs to the base of the falls. This is only a few meters from the forked junction. There are of course two paths the first to the right going to the top and the second further down going to the base. We took the second one (I could remember the way from the last time) and reached the base.

Well, actually it’s not the base. When you walk down, there’s a jack tree and a huge rocky boulder in front of you towards the base. You can only see the top of the falls and you have to get up to the rock near the jack tree. The climb is not so tough but for a girl or a lady, it might be tricky, especially if it’s wet. We climbed to the top and once there (be very careful and don’t take pictures or start admiring the view until you’re sitting, NOT standing, on the rock comfortably) you can get an amazing view of the whole package.

You can see the base from here but a lot below from where you are. She is usually a rich one but this time even richer with a tinge of that mischievous mud brown. The sight of this gorgeous girlie is enough to make you wow. We spent a long time while the sun was clearing his desk, getting ready to go home before stopping at the village shop for the bread and sweets for the kids. But I wasn’t ready to go yet, for I kept Lasantha waiting for some more.

Finally we decided to go up to the top of the falls and spend what little sunlight there. On the top, you can see a few tiny circular pools in which one can bathe easily but not swim though. It’s believed this is where King Walagamba enjoyed watching his queens bathing in the pools. The stone seat like place is still there and closer to that there’s a carving on the rock similar to a Punkalasa (pot-shaped). A few feet above on the rocky wall one can see two sword-like carvings placed next to each other as if a symbol. When we visited last, the boy who helped us find the falls said that numerous attempts had been made by the local politicians to unearth the treasure hidden but nobody knows if it was successful or not.

The water was overflowing from the dam and the tiny pools were full of water. It’d’ve been a great sight for the king if the legends are true when his queens played water games here. All we did was to have our snack (remember Lasantha’s signature egg omelet) and sliced bread. We were supposed to have it for lunch but our hunger for waterfalls was so great we simply forgot all about it and been carrying it throughout the day.

Lush green tea

Lush green tea

Walking along the road

Walking along the road

Wow

Wow

Another big wow

Another big wow

And another huge wow

And another huge wow

I'm tired of wowing

I’m tired of wowing

Mid-section

Mid-section

Lower

Lower

Bottom

Bottom

Super looking

Super looking

The rocky ground below

The rocky ground below

Villages in the distance

Villages in the distance

Me and my patented signature pose

Me and my patented signature pose

Wonderful colors

Wonderful colors

Lasantha forced me to take this

Lasantha forced me to take this

Going to the top of the falls

Going to the top of the falls

Sign of the pot

Sign of the pot

And the twin swords

And the twin swords

Sun making it hard to take pics

Sun making it hard to take pics

Silky

Silky

More steps

More steps

To the left

To the left

Full package after the overflowing from the dam

Full package after the overflowing from the dam

The tip

The tip

The base from the top

The base from the top

We wolfed it down and got back on the road waving at this sexy girl. We walked back up to the main road and took a Welimada bus. Arriving at Welimada just passing 6pm and Lasantha said good-bye to me. I had no choice but to get onto the Bandarawela bus. Along the winding road, I fell asleep and woke up when we reached B’Wela at 7.30pm.

Talking about coincidences, the same slow bus we came to Kumbalwela the day before. Golly, I could’ve cried but what to do I was stuck with the darn thing. We left at 8.00pm and spent the next 5.5hrs on the road.

Finally I reached home around 2am and hit the sack as the following the office was on the hunt for me.

Well, finally I’ve managed to finish the tale, haven’t I? It certainly took its sweet little time but looking back, every millisecond spend on it is worth a lot.

Hope you guys joined me in watching these beautiful girls and enjoyed them as much as I did.

This is Sri saying good-bye for now and will probably see you with another fairy tale.

Until then, keep traveling and be safe.

Take care!

Sri…

Watching the sunrise at Avukana – A one day excursion exploring history and folklore in the Kala Wewa Basin

$
0
0
Year and Month January, 2015
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew One but ideal for a family outing
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public transport and three wheeler
Activities archeology, Photography, hiking
Weather It was a very hot and shiny day
Route Bus route and driving instructions from Colombo is as followsAukana
  • Colombo> Dambulla> Kalawewa> Avukana
  • Colombo> Kekirawa> Vijithapura> Kala Wewa> Avukana
  • There are buses from Dambulla and Kekirawa to Kala Wewa

Sasseruwa

  • Colombo->Kurunegala->Galewela>Ras Vehera
  • Colombo> Kekirawa> Vijithapura> Kala Wewa> Avukana>Sasseruwa

Train routes from Colombo are as follows

  • Aukana is placed in the Trinco line. There are 2 express trains that take you to Kala Wewa or Aukana station from Colombo Fort, leaving at 6.05 am and 7.15 pm respectively. The easiest way to reach Aukana by public transport is by rail.
  • Dial 1919 from your mobile or land line to get information on train and bus services from the state information services
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • The Kala wewa basin can be extremely hot and humid on some days and drenched with downpours on others. Hence, plan your clothes, camera bags and water supply according to the latest weather forecasts.  Check Met Department prior to departing. Specially avoid times when the sluice gates have been opened or overflown in the Kala wewa.
  • There are two routes from Kalawewa to Aukana temple. The shorter route gets submerged when the spill gates are opened. Also there is a small stretch where elephants roam from time to time. Hence, drive carefully and ask for directions from locals.
  • The road to Ras Vehera, either from Galewela or Aukana is through elephant country. Hence avoid travelling before 9 am and after 4 pm. The road is also quite bumpy and should be attempted only if you have good ground clearance in your vehicle. A normal car or van is not advised and a three wheeler would be an ideal solution. Buses are highly unreliable in this route.
  • Do pay due respects by not wearing shoes and maintain due decorum in a place of worship. Also avoid taking pictures with ones shoulders turned towards the statues
  • Be free to capture photographic mementos of your journey. However, do avoid touching, climbing, standing on top, sitting or leaning against the ancient remains of our past. Remember that the metal buttons and buckles in your clothes, accessories and jeans do damage the artifacts.
  • If you are carrying a DSLR ask permission from the head priest, and provide your mobile number and NIC numbers to them.
  • If you are an avid photographer try to bring along a 50 mm f/1.8 prime with your 18-55 mm kit lens or wide angle.  Due to the sheer size of these monuments, a 50mm reach is amply adequate for the task at hand. A light tripod will also be of great help if you want to capture a few shots with a large part of the statues and backgrounds in focus by shooting at apertures smaller than f/12.
  • Last but not least…….. Support  the temple conservation fund by purchasing a ticket to conserve our heritage
Author sj
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The region Kala Wewa is renowned for the tank bearing its name, the Avukana Buddha and the ancient temples of Ras Vehera and Vijithapura. Its grandeur, historical significance and spiritual importance continues to attract thousands of pilgrims and visitors each year. And the temple of Avukana is said to be the place to witness one of the most spectacular sunrises in the island. A dawn of colors, when the east facing statue made out of yellow sandstone is lit up with the first rays of the day. But only a handful of pilgrims and visitors actually visit Avukana at the crack of dawn to witness this incredible spectacle. For many, it is a passing stop in a crowded itinerary of places to be covered within one day. And very few of them are able grasp the true mystique of this enigmatic region. A mystique that lies almost forgotten within the astonishing array of oral traditions preserved by the local community. Hence, the objectives of this trip were two fold. One, to witness the fabled sunrise at Avukana. And secondly, to explore the link between historical fact and folklore by gathering firsthand accounts from local residents.

My plan was to travel to Kekirawa in the night bus and hire a three wheeler to visit Avukana and Sasseruwa in the morning. Thereafter, I was planning to return to the Kala Wewa bund, Kadawara devalaya and finally Vijithapura by the latter half of the day

I left home at 10 pm to catch the Jaffna bound night bus (route 15) from the fort bus stand. Having got off at the Kekirawa junction clock tower, at 4 a.m. I was picked up by Sabri (mobile 0719870363), who was my three wheeler driver for the day. This was the second time I went to Avukana with him, and he proved to be trustworthy and reliable on both occasions. From Kekirawa junction we came to Ihalagama junction and took a left turn to the road that goes towards the Galewela passing Vijithapura and Avukana. Driving by moonlight we arrived at the Avukana temple within 40 minutes. It would have been a much more comfortable journey had I travelled by the 7.15 pm night train from fort and got down at the Aukana station at dawn. It is only 15 minutes by three wheeler from the station to the temple. The security personnel asked me to wait till 6.30 am at the police check point till the temple was opened to the public.

By 5.50 am I could sense that the hustle and bustle has already started at the temple. I quickly climbed the staircase and had a brief chat with the head priest regarding the purpose and objective of my journey. After obtaining his permission I registered myself at the security check point. To reach the statue one has to climb a slight incline and walk past the temple premises and a bana maduwa. Even in dim light, the first sight of the colossal statue was awe inspiring. Long ago the statue had been protected within a large image house or shrine nearly 70 feet in length. In moonlight the giant remnants of this imposing structure resembles a stone maze surrounding the Buddha. Walking towards the statue through this maze, one’s gaze is invariably drawn to the dark silhouette of the Buddha’s face. There was barely enough light to focus the camera…but the suspense of not knowing what was to come with the dawning day made all sleep and tiredness vanish.

The drama of light and shade, shapes and lines and yellows and blues which unfolded within the next half hour is difficult to be described in words. It was truly an unforgettable spectacle. Hence, I have left the pictures unedited, attempting to capture the events exactly as seen through the third eye of the lens. Using a heavy tripod, the DSLR controls were set to ISO 200, auto white balance and aperture priority mode at f/12.

6.04 a.m. –30 second slow shutter. Things were a lot darker to the naked eye.

6.04 a.m. –30 second slow shutter. Things were a lot darker to the naked eye.

6.11 a.m. - 2.5 second shutter. The light has just improved enough for me to manual focus with difficulty

6.11 a.m. – 2.5 second shutter. The light has just improved enough for me to manual focus with difficulty

7.08 a.m. – 1/60 second shutter – standing regally yet serenely

7.08 a.m. – 1/60 second shutter – standing regally yet serenely

7.13 a.m. – 1/40 second shutter

7.13 a.m. – 1/40 second shutter

7.15 a.m. – 1/160 second shutter - The impassive expression of the face reflects the supreme spirituality and benign power

7.15 a.m. – 1/160 second shutter – The impassive expression of the face reflects the supreme spirituality and benign power

In my eagerness to witness this spectacle I had arrived at the temple far too early. The real drama began to unfold only at about 6.55 am. I watched mesmerized as the first rays of the day slowly illuminated the siraspatha of the Buddha. Then the eyes and the face was also lit up in yellow by about 7.10 am. By 7.30 am the whole statue seemed to be ablaze with a golden hue created by the yellow colored sandstone lighting up in the morning sun. It was almost as if the statue must have been meant to be worshipped as it stood shining against the deep greens of the trees behind and the blues of the skies above. The finish, polish and design of the sculpture clearly seems to have taken into consideration the drama of light and shadow unfolding with the dawn of each day. The Buddha seemed to gaze towards the tank with such serenity, power and compassion that all beings, human or animal could only be humbled by its presence.

The surveyor and historian Brohier describes his first encounter with the Aukana statue

“I felt an insignificant pigmy in its presence and humbled. Yet grasping hold of the tail end of my reason there gradually seeped into my mind enough clarity to perceive the still, unmoving features and expression on the face of the statue, the idea of majestic compassion it conveyed, the emotional poise and the mellow beauty with which the sculptor has draped it…”

The eccentric Raven Hart summed it up best… in just two sweeping sentences

“It is indescribably impressive, the face of benign power, confirming the blessing given by the right hand. The robes flow as you would think granite could never be made to flow – they almost move in the wind.”

Avukana is arguably the best crafted and preserved standing Buddha statue in the island. Visitors belonging to any faith, culture or religion, would invariably admire the artistry, craftsmanship, history and the scale of this 40 foot colossus. Just the big toe itself is over a foot long and the ankle eight feet round. The estimated weight is said to be 75 to 80 tons! What impresses most, about this sculpture is not its size or proportions, but the delicate craftsmanship displayed by the sculptor. The artistic manner in which the Buddha’s robes chastely reveals his underlying physique is a prominent feature of the sculpture. When one stands at the foot of the statue and gazes upwards… the robes look as if flowing with some unseen breeze.  Some have even speculated that the flow of robes depict the waves of the Kala Wewa.

It is said that a Buddha has 32 features that reflect his enlightenment and greatness. The ancient Sinhalese sculptors have paid particular attention to depict these characteristics correctly and clearly in their work. And in the Avukana Buddha statue 16 of these features have been visually identified. The right hand of the Buddha faces the viewer sideways in what is known as the “Ashisha Mudra” or the “posture of blessing”.  If not for the spirituality of the face, one may almost anticipate a swift Karate chop about to be delivered. The symbolism of the left hand shows the gathering up of the robe in preparation to step over a river – a representation of the cycle of rebirths in the “Kataka Hastha” mudra.  The figure is carved in the round, narrowly connected at the rear to the rock.

According to folklore the ancient sculptors have executed their task with such precision, that even a drop of rain that fall on to the top of the statue would flow along a path over the nose of the statue and fall to an exact point between its toes. Thereby preserving the statue from erosion caused by the monsoons. Till this date, a small depression mark is seen placed precisely between the two toes and directly below the tip of the nose.

The small depression mark between the two toes where rain is said to drop straight from the tip of the nose

The small depression mark between the two toes where rain is said to drop straight from the tip of the nose

 

To me… the facial expressions of the reclining statue in Gal Viharaya in Polonnaruwa portrays a “calm peaceful face”. Thereby striking the viewer with a feeling of spiritual bliss and serenity. I felt that the impassive visage of the Avukana Buddha portrays a “strong face”. Thereby conveying supreme spirituality and power. And from his curled hair there sprouts the flame called siraspatha signifying his enlightenment. The gaze of the Buddha is forever, fixed in the direction of the tank. And at a certain time of the day, the eyes are said to level with the water.

 

I had a quiet chat with the temple priest about the history, folklore and legends surrounding the Avukana statue and temple

 

  • According to the priest the statue was constructed by King Dhatusena at about the same time as the tank. The existence of caves with drip ledges and Brahmin inscriptions prove this to be a pre Christian era monastery in existence long before the reign of Dhatusena. According to the priest the word “Avukana” is said to be evolved from “Pabbatha Kona”, “Pawuru Kona” and “Paukana”, meaning the edge of the rock. This is said to be because the statue has been carved at the edge of a rock face. There is another theory that the word Avukana is derived from “Wawu Kona”, meaning the corner of the tank. Its close proximity to the edge of the Kala Wewa may have given rise to this thought
  • “Avukana” is popularly thought to be derived from the meaning “sun-eating” or dawn. This seems to be a most logical conclusion for anyone who has witnessed the statue being lit up by the morning sun. However, it is generally accepted as a recent evolution, as the temple was known as “Kalagal Viharaya” till the 18th Century. Probably because of the close proximity to the Kala Wewa (tank). The word “Kalagal” could be translated to Pali as “Kalasela”. A place called Kalasela is mentioned in the Culavamsa as containing an image for which King Dhatusena (455-73) had a diadem made. As the Avukana statue dates from around the 5th century AD, it is generally accepted as this statue mentioned in the chronicle
  • There is a village nearby named “Gal Waduwa Gama”, meaning the village of the stone craftsman. Pleased by the skill displayed in carving the Avukana Buddha, king Dhatusena is was said to have donated all the lands of this village to a single sculptor by the name of “Bharana”. Thus the memory of the “Bharana”, is still preserved in oral tradition.
  • The Avukana Buddha is contemporaneous with the images at Buduruwagala, Maligawila and Polonnaruwa’s Gal Vihara and Lankatilaka. This brief craze for such gigantic monuments may have been inspired by the Indian Mahayana influence, with its emphasis on the Buddha’s superhuman, transcendental powers. It is said that Deepankara Buddha (one of the 28 Lord Buddhas in Buddhism) was 88ft tall and that Aukana Buddha statue reflects Deepankara Buddha. Statues of the Gods Indra, Brahma, Yama, Suyama and Santhusika who were the Gods affiliated to the Deepankara Buddha were said to have been found near the flower altar and provide further proof of the identity of the statue. However, another thought is that the statue was sculptured as a form of blessing to the people in the area. As the gaze of the Buddha is directed towards the tank, some other have speculated that the statue was carved to protect the tank.
  • The neat folds of flowing drapery and the posture of blessing of the statue is said to bear signs of influence from the Ghandhara and Amaravati schools of art in India. The Ghandhara School of art developed from the mix of Greek, Syrian, Persian and Indian artistic influences which merged along the Silk Road in the regions of northern Pakistan and Afghanistan. There is unconfirmed speculation that the word Avukana is derived from the word “Avagam”, which means Afghanistan in Turkish. If this be true… the influence from the Ghandara School of art in creating the Avukana Buddha may have been derived from the now destroyed Bhamiya Buddha statues in Afghanistan…

Probably the most popular of all folklore is said to be those linking Avukana with another statue of similar proportions, situated just 8 miles away. To explore this I journeyed to my next destination of Sasseruwa in Galewela.

The serene pond at the temple premises overlooking the landscape

The serene pond at the temple premises overlooking the landscape

Farewell to Aukana

Farewell to Aukana

The bumpy road from Aukana temple to Sasseruwa temple winds through about 15km of varied terrain dotted with patches of lush greenery, lakes with mesmerizing reflections, pleasant stretches of paddy and typical dry zone vegetation. The road is quite bumpy and public transport highly unreliable along this route, necessitating a three wheeler or an off roader to reach the temple. The unmistakable sight of elephant dung, attala and electric fences gives hint to roaming elephants in the area. Hence it would be best to avoid this route before 9 am and after 4 pm.

A scenic ride along a tank through the “Naegama” village

A scenic ride along a tank through the “Naegama” village

A calming pool of water just outside the entrance to the Ras Vehera temple

A calming pool of water just outside the entrance to the Ras Vehera temple

Sasseruwa had been one of the earliest, most significant and largest Buddhist monastic complexes in ancient Ceylon. The archeological site is littered with more than 100 drip ledge caves which would have provided abode to a massive population of forest dwelling monks. Thus rivalling even Mihintale and Ritigala in sheer scale. Forest dwelling monks depend on alms offered by the local population for sustenance. Hence, such large monasteries are invariably constructed only a short distance away from a large population of devotees. Thus, providing further proof to the existence of a flourishing agricultural community in this region. The Brahmin inscriptions in some of these caves bear evidence to their pre Christian origin. Ruins of stupas, ancient moonstones, stone inscriptions and stone pillars can be seen in every direction. The sapling of the very first 32 saplings (Dethis Maha Bo Ankura) of the Sri Maha Bodhi in the Anuradhapura is thought to be planted by king Devampiyathissa (250 – 210 BC) at this temple. Folklore asserts that on the day the tree was planted the area was lit by colorful rays of light (ras). Thus, the name ‘Ras Vehera’ has been attached to this temple. This tree is still protected by an ancient Bodhigara, and surrounded by a grove of Araliya trees.

The ancient bodhiya surrounded by a bodhigara as well as an aralia grove

The ancient bodhiya surrounded by a bodhigara as well as an aralia grove

Remnants of shrines shaded by the jungle.

Remnants of shrines shaded by the jungle.

However, the main attraction of Rasvehera is undoubtedly the gigantic 13 meter, image of the Buddha. A steel railing has been newly installed to aid the pilgrims in their short ascend to worship the statue.  The sacred feet, the creases in the siura or robes, the posture of the arms and the serenity of the smiling face invoke all viewers to discard all worldly concerns and enter into a moment of calm contemplation.

Majestic and gigantic…

Majestic and gigantic…

Unfinished ear and the crack in the torso of the statue

Unfinished ear and the crack in the torso of the statue

This shrine is also called Sasseruwa (or Sas-seruwa) which could be interpreted as the “similar statue”. Thus hinting the connection of this statue with the one at Avukana. Even a casual observer would not fail to notice the striking similarity in size, stance and basic form between these two statues, located just 8 miles apart. The plains of Kala Wewa, where simple farming folks have been engaged in an unhurried way of life for more than a thousand years have fostered many imaginative tales, that have passed on to folklore and legend. In such a place, one can hardly expect so remarkable a coincidence to pass unnoticed. Thus giving rise to many a tale linking Avukana with Sasseruwa.

  • Arguably the most popular story asserts that a master craftsman and his student set out to carve two identical statues in a classic “Guru-Gola” (master pupil) rivalry. The Ras Vehera statue was said to be assigned to the student while the master set to work in Avukana.  . The completion of either masterpiece was to be signaled by the ringing of a bell. The master and pupil got down to the job of finishing the statues furiously. And one fine day the sound of the bell was heard… The master had completed the statue at Avukana. Defeated and disheartened, the student laid down his chisel. Never to be picked up again.

 

  • Once upon a time the same artist was said to have sculpted both statues, beginning with the one at Sasseruwa. It was during the carving process that a large cracks was said to form in the torso of the statue (still seen today). Thus frustrating the sensitive artist abandon the sculpture. He had packed up his tools and moved to Avukana to start work in a fresh masterpiece.

 

  • The southern Sinhalese hero Dutugamunu, on his way to attack Vijithapura, was said to be forced to camp along the flooded Malwathu River. The river was said to be full to the brim and too perilous for the army to wade across. The king had given orders for his men not to be idle and do whatever they were skilled with. The craftsmen who were there had started to carve this Buddha image. These craftsman have stopped their work half way through to join the rest of the ranks when the river subsidized enough for the army to cross it. Thus, the statue was said to remain unfinished to this date. Perhaps these warrior sculptors never returned from battle.

 

Paranavitana in his masterpiece “Sinhalayo” noted that the statue at Avukana near Kala Wewa may be of the same date as the tank, and the Sasseruwa Buddha may be even somewhat earlier. He pointed that colossal Buddha images of this type carved on rock faces are not found in India but was discovered in larger dimensions in modern day Afghanistan.

 

Further illustrating this in his work “the art of the ancient Sinhalese” Paranavitana writes

“The statue of Aukana appears to be o be the image referred to as the “Kailasela” Buddha in Mahawamsa. The site was known in the eighteenth century as “kala-Gal” viharaya which in Pali would be “Kailasela” Viharaya.  As there is reference to it in the reign of king Dhatusena, the image most probably dates from that reign. Kailasela can be taken as the equivalent of the Sinhalese “Kaliya” a title of Dhatusena.

The colossus at Sasseruwa is of somewhat lesser height than the Aukana Buddha, and it is not so imposing. It is carved in high relief inside a niche, and has no pedestal placed against its feet. If the tradition which was prevalent in the fifteenth century about this image can be relied upon, it is the earliest Buddha image found of this type in Ceylon. The author of “Rajawamsa” when he returned from his travels abroad, gave king Mahasen an account of the two colossi on the rock at the “Bhamayana Vihara”  (Bamiyan) in the Sugdha (Udyana)  country, which were intended to be portraits of two kings  father and son, who ruled that kingdom in the third century., and ere in the form of Maitreya Buddha Mahasen decided to have his own portrait carved in the guise of the maître Buddha on the face of the rock at “Rahera” Vihara (modern Sasseruwa) on the likeness of the Maitreya Bodhisattva. Though wearing the monastic robes, and the hair on the had shown in ringlets, the image is that of a bodhisattva as indicated by the left hand holding the hem of the robe, Mahsen did not live to complete the image, and after his death, his son “Srimeghawarna” stopped work thereon, in order to placate the followers of the Mahavihara. But the image appears to have received worship as that of a Buddha in subsequent ages.”

Comparing the Avukana Buddha with the earlier sculpture at Rasvehera is in many ways similar to comparing the statues at Thanthirimale with the later sculptures in Gal Viharaya in Polonnaruwa. The statue at Rasvehera with a missing “siraspatha”, an unfinished ear and a large crack in the torso appears somewhat incomplete and less well preserved in comparison to the pristine condition of the Avukana Buddha. This could be partially explained by it being constructed several centuries before the Avukana Buddha. Though not all legends connecting these statues may be accepted as fact, it is very unlikely that the sculpture at Avukana was not influenced by the earlier statue in Ras Vehera.

Two of the caves used by meditating monks in pre Christian era have been converted to image houses during the reign of king Walagamba. Today they contain beautiful dragon arches, seated Buddha statues and wall paintings dating from the Kandy era. The fading paintings closely resembles the mara parajaya in Dambulla and Degaldoruwa. Though generally kept locked, the priest kindly assigned a guide on my request to see the caves. And they were well worth a visit…

One of the caves is said to be guarded by a giant snake – who to my great relief had not been seen by anyone in the past 50 years. A Kandiyan era reclining Buddha nearly 40 feet in length dominates the interior of this “Naga Lena”. Worshippers can walk right around this statue using a passageway behind the statue and the cave wall. It is said that a hand woven cotton thread has been pasted to represent the waves of the robe and plastered and painted over to finish this statue. This thread was said to have been woven by single poor woman as an offering to the great teacher. One can still see the thread in places where the statue has been damaged

The lines of the robe made with thread pasted, plastered and painted over…

The lines of the robe made with thread pasted, plastered and painted over…

In a dark corner behind the Buddha statue lies a wooden bed… covered with the dust of many years. It is said to have been donated to the temple nearly four hundred years ago, when only royalty and aristocrats were allowed to sleep on beds. Most common folk had to content with sleeping on the floor using paduru. Apparently not all common folk were content to sleep in paduru…as according to oral tradition, a woodworker in a nearby village had secretly constructed this bed, to placate the naggings of his wife. Not surprisingly… the wife could not keep it a secret for very long. In a typical village context, where nobody minds their own business… the word spread far and wide. By the time it reached the kings ear, the wood worker had managed to save his neck by donating the bed to the temple. What happened thereafter in the drama between the wood worker and his better half is lost in time. However, this same bed is preserved as a curious attraction to this day. The four leg posts of this bed have been decorated with carvings and very solidly constructed. I commented to my guide that the bed seems to have been quite a sturdy design… and we both had a quiet laugh over it.

Quite a sturdy design…

Quite a sturdy design…

 

After thanking the head priest I returned to the Kala Wewa bund along the same bumpy road.

Kala Wewa ranks with the pyramids and the great stupas, as one of the great engineering marvels of the ancient world. With a circumference of 40 miles, an embankment of almost 4 miles, a total capacity area of seven square miles and a spill (pitawana) measured to be 216 feet in width and 170 feet in length its sheer size and scale is staggering. To fill such a massive reservoir, a dam was constructed across Dambulu Oya and Mirisgoni Oya. Additional water was diverted from Hawnell Oya and the drainage coming from the lush Matale hills. A 54 mile long canal from Kalawewa to Anuradhapura known as Jayaganga was built to carry its waters to four major reservoirs in the city more than fifty miles away. They are Abhaya wewa, Tissa wewa, Nuwara wewa and Nachchaduwa wewa. Jayaganga is approximately 54 miles in length and 40 feet in width. Its gradient was measured to be only 6 inches per mile. (1:10,000). Maintaining such a gradient is an extremely challenging task even for the modern Engineers using laser guided survey technology. An engineering project of this scale and precision more than a thousand years ago, is indeed a stupendous achievement

Kalawewa and Jayaganga formed the very heart of a vast irrigation network that sustained one of the most populated and long standing capitals in the ancient world. It is in no way an exaggeration to state that the very existence of Anuradhapura was dependent on this crucial supply of water.  In sheer size and scale Kala Wewa and Jayaganga rivals the Minneri/Elahara scheme of Mahasen as well as the mighty Parakrama Samudra of Parakramabahu.

Many think of giant tanks as isolated masterpieces of ancient ingenuity. But the network of canals and feeders to collate and distribute their waters were a crucial link in these vast irrigation networks. Some may have wondered why the waters of Kala Wewa are collated almost 50 miles away from its intended destination in Anuradhapura. Our ancestors have selected a location where the downpour of the monsoons draining from the Matale hills and the flow of two branches of the great Mahaweli may be amassed and distributed along the most favorable features of the landscape. These tank builders have clearly identified the unique location of the Matale hills, placed in the path of both eastern and western monsoons. Thus ensuring access to a constant source of rain fall throughout the year. They have also been capable of somehow surveying and measuring every nook and corner in the region. How else could they have identified such optimum placements for canals, feeders, bunds and sluices? Perhaps placing this crucial lifeline some distance away to the south of the capital may have rendered it less vulnerable to the invasions from the north. The irrigation network of Kala Wewa and Jayaganga is indeed a product of local ingenuity, resourcefulness, simple practicality, foresight, centuries of acute observation and the astounding unity of purpose of our ancestors. Something that their descendants may admire and be justly proud of. And surely, aspire to as well.

Rowland Ravenhart wrote a glowing tribute to the ancient tank builders.

“The tanks are a constant feature of the lowland landscape, and a beautiful one. Climb any hill there and see them steel blue in the darker forests; see also the fiery green of the rice fields they nourish; and salute those engineers. There were no “cats” or bulldozers; there were giants of large conception in those day….The irrigation engineering was consistently excellent. New canals have been sited with modern instruments, and found to run a few feet from the old ones; sluices have been planned in the optimum positions, and excavations for them have found old ones just there.”

The visit to Rome of the four envoys from Ceylon in the year 45 AD, is one of the most puzzling episodes in our long history. There is no mention of this event in our oral or written traditions. Neither is there any Roman record of Emperor Claudius having spared them an audience.  Fascinatingly, it is this same Claudius who was selected as the main protagonist in the fictional novels of Robert Graves. While the emperor was quite busy defending his empire and planning the murder of his third wife, a Roman historian by the name of Plinius or “Pliny the elder” as we know him today, took a great interest in the four Ceylonese ambassadors. We know this, as he had dedicated a complete chapter in his lively narrative of “natural History”, to the island of “Taprobane”.

“IT hath been for a long time thought that Taprobane was another World under the appellation of the Antichthones. But from the time of Alexander the Great, and the intercourse in those parts, it was discovered to be an Island… And hereupon especially was he moved to seek for the Friendship of Rome; and so despatched four Ambassadors, of whom Rachias was the chief. From them it became known that there were five hundred Towns in it; and that there was a Harbour facing the South, lying conveniently near the Town Palesimundum, the principal City of all that Realm, and the King’s Seat; that there were 200,000 common Citizens: that within this Island there was a Lake called Magisba, 270 Miles in Circuit containing in it some Islands fruitful in nothing but Pasturage. Out of this Lake issued two Rivers ; the one, Palesimundas, passing near to the City of the same Name, and running into the Harbour with three Streams ; of which the Narrowest was five Stadia Broad, and the largest fifteen ; the other Northward towards India, by Name Cydara : also that the next Cape of this Country to India is called Colaicum, from which to the nearest Port (of India) is counted four Days’ Sailing : in the midst of which Passage, there lieth the Island of the Sun. They said, moreover, that the Water of this Sea was of a deep green Colour; and, what is still more extraordinary, full of Trees growing within it : 1 so that the Pilots with their Helms broke off the” Crests of those Trees…

…The King is adorned like Liber Pater : but others in the habit of Arabians. If the King offend in anything, Death is his Punishment : but no Man doeth Execution. All Men turn away from him, and deny him any Intercourse, of even a Word. They are destroyed during a solemn Hunting, which, it appears, is exceedingly agreeable to the Tigers and Elephants. They cultivate their Ground diligently. They do not use Vines ; but all sorts of Fruits they have in Abundance. They also take Pleasure in Fishing, and especially in taking Tortoises :and so great are they found there, that one of their Shells serves to cover a House. They count a hundred Years no long Life. Thus much we have learned concerning Taprobane”

(source: archive.org)

Parts of Pliny’s exaggerated and baffling account may be attributed to these ambassadors wanting to paint a glowing picture of their country in the minds of Rome. Perhaps some of it could have been misinterpreted when translating their accounts with the aid of the sailors who accompanied them. However, roman coins of Claudius have been found by the Portuguese in Mannar in 1574. Neither was it unusual for Ceylonese kings to send ambassadors to foreign kingdoms. And nor is there any doubt that the “trees whose crests are broken by the helms of boats that grows within deep green seas” may have been a reference to the corrals adorning our shallow shores. Likewise, it is generally speculated that the giant lake Magisba mentioned by Pliny may have been the “Kala Wewa” we know today.

A giant stone mass which was part of the ancient spillway… the grey shape behind the tree line is the modern spillway built by the British - a short distance away in the exact same location.

A giant stone mass which was part of the ancient spillway… the grey shape behind the tree line is the modern spillway built by the British – a short distance away in the exact same location.

A lone fisherman braves the open spill gates to cast his net at dusk

A lone fisherman braves the open spill gates to cast his net at dusk

The vastness of Kala Wewa in dying light at about 6.00 pm..

The vastness of Kala Wewa in dying light at about 6.00 pm..

The shady three wheel drive along the bund of the tank was one of the most pleasing experiences of the day. It must be such sceneries that inspired R. L. Spittle to write….

“Through forest roads flanked by scattered homes and tanks melodious with the cries of water-fowl. And so we attain a pleasant goal by pleasing paths”

A pleasant goal by pleasing paths..

A pleasant goal by pleasing paths..

Starting the day’s work…

Starting the day’s work…

.

.

.

.

.

.

I saw plenty of bird life with kingfishers, herons and Brahmin kites on and above the tank bund. However, the highlight of the day was the abundance of butterflies… bringing to mind fond memories of walking along the Bududruwagala tank in Wellawaya. Roaming elephants are also said to visit the other end of the tank bund by evening.

A fluttering of colours..

A fluttering of colours..

The origins of Kala wewa is steeped in local legend and history. The popular version of folklore says that there was once a man so disgraced by the behavior of his wife that he fled to the forest. Rumors began to spread that the wild man was hiding some treasure in the jungle, prompting the king to have him brought to his royal presence. But the man said that the only treasure he knew of was a lake held by an entanglement of “Kala” creepers. (This tall creeper “Derris Scandens”, still flourishes in the tank today… with huge white flowers and clumsy bean pods). The king replaced the creeper with a dam and made him its guardian. One day there was a breach in the bund. In order to stop the breach, its guardian placed himself bodily in the breach until workers arrived to repair it, losing his life in doing so. Having selflessly dived into the “kada vala” (broken hole), he was, in time, deified as “Kadawara” Deiyo (God). To this date he remains the guardian deity for all whose livelihood, way of life, customs and traditions are revolved around the tank. A small temple in the old spill way, remains dedicated to this God.

As I entered the Devalaya a puja was going on. My attempt to patiently wait till the ceremony was over and have a quiet chat with the Kapu mahattaya was well rewarded. The oral tradition maintained by those serving the temple is a darker version of the popular legend.

“The God Kadawara was once a resident of the region by the name of Seneviratna. He was a person who really enjoyed his food and drink. (Hondata kana bona kenek). One day after a drunken brawl with his wife, he walked into the jungle in a terrible rage… wowing never to return. Seven years elapsed, during which time he lost touch with all humanity and roamed the wilderness with a herd of deer. One day it came to the king’s ear that a wild man was obstructing the palace servants from obtaining venison for his table. It was also rumored that he was guarding a treasure in the jungle. Enticed by these tales of gold and precious stones, the king ordered the whole army to be deployed to capture this enigma. Bound and caged, the man was neither willing nor able to speak in human tongue. Drummers were sent to all corners of the kingdom announcing a reward of 1000 gold pieces for anyone who could make him talk. Time passed and no one could claim the prize. One day a woman came forward and suggested that the wild man be fed with tasty morsels with plenty of salt and lime. (Hondata lunu ambul). To the surprise of all, the man recovered his ability to speak. And the woman was found to be none other than his estranged spouse. Even to date, a special list of food is cooked and offered to the deity during the puja. The king inquired how he survived in times of drought in these dry forests. The man replied that he ate leaves and bark of plants and drank water from a lake formed by “Kala” creepers blocking the flow of a river. The king ordered a mighty dam be built in the place of the Kala creepers. The tank thus formed was named as the Kala wewa. A second tank was also ordered to be built at the other side of the river. As the second tank was built by looking (balaa) at the Kala Wewa, it was named as the Balalu wewa. A pirit mandapaya was built and 62 priests were invited to chant pirit till the tank was filled with rain water. The king decreed that Seneviratna be appointed as the guardian of the tank. His first duty was to guard two clay pots which were placed to measure the water level of the tank. Once the water level reached the required level the sluice gates were to be opened and the water distributed to the paddy fields. Thus was the wish (Wara) of the king. All seemed going well for Seneviratna basking in royal favor. But tragedy was destined to follow. During the ceremony both clay pots was accidentally broken by an aged monk who got up to leave the pirit mandapaya. Knowing that he would surely be executed for failing to carry out the royal wishes, Seneviratna committed suicide by jumping into the tank. In a fit of rage he is said to have broken the necks of all 62 monks before taking his own life. The place in the old bund still called as “Pannuma”, is said to be the very place where Seneviratna jumped (panna) to his end. Soon after the local residents started to suffer from bad dreams and frightful apparitions. The spirit thus reborn from a broken (kada) wish (wara) was thereafter named as Kadawara. To appease this powerful spirit the king built a temple on a rock in the middle of the tank.  During times of extreme drought and receding water levels, this “Kovil Gala” is still said to be visible from the tank bund. Thereafter the spirit went to the banks of the Menik Ganga and started terrorizing the Kataragama pilgrims by grabbing their food offerings. The mighty God Kataragama summoned the spirit and enquired the reason for his wanton acts. Kadawara replied “mata badagini wuna mamma kewa” (I became hungry, I ate). After admonishing him God Kataragama inquired if he is willing to wage war with the “Asuras”. Borrowing the golden sword of God Kataragama, Kadawara boldly vanquished the feared Asuras in combat. The head that the God Kataragama is holding in his hand, seen in some religious iconography is said to be a decapitated Asura offered by Kadawara. It is said that only lord Buddha was able to defeat the Asuras in battle before this. As reward for this feat, Kadawara was appointed as the guardian of the southern entrance to the palace of God Kataragama, and given the right to be worshipped alongside the deity.  To date daily Puja is offered at 4.30 am, 9.30 am, 12.30 pm, 7.30 pm and 12.30 pm at the Kadawara devalaya to exactly match the times when rituals are observed at the Kataragama shrine.”

The Kapu Mahattaya swore that the “deviyan wahanse jeewamanawa wada sitinawa” (the god is alive and present) and is all powerful in his adaviya. Nothing for better nor for worse (hondata ho narakata) is said to happen without the deity’s consent. Even the slightest improper utterance (kata waradda gannawa) must be avoided as there is “aayith no katha no hellum” (not a chance to talk or even budge), should his wrath be aroused. The vengeance of Mul Kadawara Seneviratna Devatawun Wahanse… is said to be certain on those who deny him overlordship in the region. During my brief stay, I could observe a steady stream of visitors to the shrine. Some seem to stop by in the midst of their daily errands to make a brief prayer, while others arrived bringing offerings for puja and wows. The look of piety, trust, fear and reverence in their faces said it all…

 

Maha Kadawara Devalaya - A sense of eeriness as darkness descends…

Maha Kadawara Devalaya – A sense of eeriness as darkness descends…

Mul Kadawara Seneviratna Devatawun Wahanse

Mul Kadawara Seneviratna Devatawun Wahanse

The king in this legend was Dhatusena, a warrior from the Deep South who vanquished the Tamils who were in possession of Anuradhapura. Dhatusena ascended the throne n 459 A.C. thus restoring the Sinhalese sovereignty at a crucial juncture. He was the first monarch of the mysterious Moriya dynasty. No reliable information can be extracted from existing sources as to who the Moriyans were, and what claim Dhatusena had for the throne. However, there is no doubt that the brief rule of the Moriyan’s provided royal patronage for an astonishing flowering of art, sculpture, architecture and irrigation. The mere mention of the names of Dhatusena and Kasyapa should itself suffice to summarize their reign of glory.

According to Culawamsa the building of the kala wewa was itself predicted by the great thera Mahanama. During the time when the youthful prince Dhatusena was being groomed in state craft at the Gonisa-Vihara, the Pandu invaders sent forces to have him captured and killed…..

“In the night the Thera had a dream about it and fetched the boy away. Scarcely had he departed when the people surrounded (the house) but did not find him in the parivena. The twain (uncle and nephew) departed thence and when, farther south. They reached the great river called Gona then just in flood, they were obliged to halt, much as they wished to press forward. The Thera spoke: “even as this river holds us back, so do thou (in future time) hold back its course by collecting its waters in a tank,” and he descended with the boy into the stream…”

Those like myself, born in the late seventies, were probably the last generation to witness the end of the age old bond of the extended family. Before the onslaught of cultural change heralded by the open economy, uncles and aunts were very much part of the family. And in many situations, played an active part in supporting their siblings and their children. The Mahanama thera who is mentioned above is said to be the maternal uncle of Dhatusena. And it was his uncle who was said to have played a key role in placing young Dhatusena in the throne.  According to oral tradition, he was also the learned compiler of the Mahawamsa. Though some experts think the author was not this Mahanama, but another monk of the same name, most of those who have actually read the Mahawamsa would be inclined to disagree. The deep piety, patriotism, humility, zest and wisdom of this charming old monk glows between the lines of his chronicle. Also the author of Mahawamsa ended the saga with Maha Sena. Perhaps not trusting himself to record impartially the occurrences that so nearly touched him. The story of Dhatusena is recorded at the beginning of Culawamsa.

The Culavamsa portrays Dhatusena as a mighty builder of tanks and a righteous ruler. It also records the misdeed which foretold the kings’ tragic undoing.

“When this king was building the Kalavapi tank he saw a bhikkhu sunk in meditation and as he could not rouse him out of his absorption, he had a clod of earth flung at the bhikkhu’s head. The consequence of this deed experienced in his lifetime has been described in the story of his violent death.”

The doom which was to follow is vividly narrated by the ancient chronicler. The king’s eldest son Kasyapa seized the throne, “having every scoundrel as his comrade” against his father, imprisoning him and demanding the treasures held in secret (he thought) for Moggalana, the rightful heir.

“When he heard that, this most wicked of men grew furious and sent messengers to his father with the command to make known the place where the treasure lay. The latter thought: this is a pretext of the villain to kill us, and he kept silence. The messengers went and told the King. He became very wroth and sent (messengers) again and again. Dhatusena thought: it is well, I will visit my friend, bathe in the Kalavapi and then die, and (he) spake to the messengers: “if he lets me go to the Kalavapi he shall learn it.” The messengers went and told the King and the King joyful in his thirst for gold, sent messengers to whom he gave a chariot with a damaged axle. As the Monarch drove thither, the driver who guided the chariot, ate roasted corn and gave him also a little of it. He ate of it, had joy over the man and gave him a leaf for Moggallana asking him to make him gate-keeper as a reward. Thus is good fortune fleeting as the lightning? How then can the sensible man be intoxicated by it? When the Thera Mahanama heard: the King comes, he put aside the bean soup and chicken he had received remembering: the King likes that, and took his seat awaiting the guest. The King came, greeted him respectfully and took a place at his side. Thus the twain sat side by side joyfully as if they had gained a kingdom, and their mutual converse chased their cares away. After the Thera had entertained the King, he admonished him in many ways and encouraged him to strive ceaselessly, showing him how the world is subject to the law of impermanency. Then Dhatusena betook himself to the tank, plunged as he liked therein, bathed and drank and spake to the King’s henchmen: “This here, my friends, is my whole wealth”.”

Kasyapa was furious. He had his father stripped naked and chained, and walled up to die. Some say at the bund of the same tank

Passing the devalaya, the road continued through lush paddy fields towards my final destination for the day…the ancient raja maha viharaya in the village of Vijithapura.

Nil Goyama Meda...

Nil Goyama Meda…

Vijithapura which is also known as Vijitha Nagara or Vijithagama, is one of the earliest recorded cities in the island. When Vijaya, the first recorded ruler of the country arrived from India, he brought a large retinue of his followers with him. These followers spread throughout the country, and established settlements. One of his chief followers named Vijitha founded the establishment which was then known as Vijitha Nagara (city of Vijitha) or Vijithagama (village of Vijitha). The city is believed to have been founded during the reign of king Panduvasudeva, the third recorded king of Sri Lanka, who was the brother in law of the chieftain Vijitha.

As usual I had a quiet chat with the temple priest about the temple and its history. And what a conversation it turned out to be…According to him the stupa has been constructed at the very center of the ancient fortress of Vijithapura to commemorate the great victory of Duttugamunu at this very site. The original stupa built at the same time as the Maha Seya in Anuradhapura, is said to have been built on the very spot where the kings standard was said to have been raised to signal victory to the troops. The unusual features of the stupa seen today have been added during its reconstruction as a memorial stupa.

Unique memorial stupa…

Unique memorial stupa…

I could see no remnants of a fortress at the temple premises. But the priest pointed out that due to the sheer scale of the fortress it lay scattered over a wider area of about 8 km across. There is still said to be a part of the Vijithapura wall about 4 km away near the Hiripitiyagama junction in the Thalawa Kekirawa road. The eastern part of the wall was said to be submerged by the Kala Wewa built on a later date. About 3 km to the west of the temple, another part of the wall is said to be still standing in a village called “Galnaewa”. The priest pointed out that the original fortress would have been eight to ten kilometers wide and would have encircled the whole settlement of Vijithapura. If this be true it may have looked very similar to the ancient defense fortifications still to be seen at Polonnaruwa.

In places like Vijithapura legends and place names continues to be remembered, long after cries of battle and even whole fortress walls have disappeared into the abyss of time. Though unsupported by written proof, they constitute an accumulation of circumstantial evidence which cannot be ignored.

The hillside surrounding the temple is still said to be dotted with remains of guard posts. These “mura kutti” are said to have been used to relay messages from one hill to another warning the approach of enemies. Two of these hills are still called as “oththu gala” (spying rock) and “Us Gala” (high rock) by the local residents.

Mahawamsa records that king Elara was killed outside the southern gates of Anuradhapura in a final duel with Duttugamunu. But according to local folklore the two kings fought a prior duel in Vijithapura as well. King Elara was said to be defeated, but managed to escape using an underground tunnel. Less than 2 km away from the temple is a place called “Gal-Linda yaya”, meaning “field of stone well”. I was told that remnants of an ancient structure resembling a well is still seen there. The locals still say that this was entrance to Elara’s escape tunnel.

The ancient fortress was said to be protected by multiple moats or “agal”. With the passage of time, whole villages are said to been built over these gigantic moats. Village names such as “Pahi Vala”, “Digan Vala and “nabada vala” are said to be places where these moats have once stood. These places called “Vala” meaning hole or depression in the ground may have originally been abandoned moats.

Scattered village names in the region such as “demala akkaraya” (acre of Tamils), Karukkankulama, Puliyankulama and Ichchankulama may be remnants of a strong Dravidian influence in the area.

The ancient road to Anuradhapura is said to lie behind the current temple. The remnants of a building said to be a three tiered gate house controlling the entrance to this road is still found in the temple premises. Thus indicating that the temple is indeed at a strategically important location in the ancient route to Anuradhapura

The gate house to the ancient route to Anuradhapura…

The gate house to the ancient route to Anuradhapura…

The “Kadu Gae gala” which was said to be used by Duttugamunu’s warriors to sharpen their swords, is a key attraction at the temple. The wear and tear of the stone, does indeed look as if caused by sharpening a thousand swords.

Looks like thousands of swords have been sharpened long ago

Looks like thousands of swords have been sharpened long ago

The exact location of Vijithapura continues to be debated even today.  Many historians and archaeologists believe that ancient Vijithapura is situated in close proximity to Polonnaruwa, where the southern border defense fortifications of the Anuradhapura kingdom has been traditionally located. When travelling to Polonnaruwa from Colombo Fort, one takes the “Kaduruwela” bus. The word Kaduruwela is said to have been derived from “Kandawuru wela”, meaning the field where camp was set up for battle. The residents in that locality maintain an oral tradition that, this was the place where Duttugamunu pitched camp during the bloody siege at Vijithapura. While carrying out aerial mapping for the Mahaweli Development Project, surveyors came across a location which indicated to the existence of three ancient moats and a square fortification. This site located between Kaduruwela and the new town of Polonnaruwa, is now generally accepted as the location of Vijithapura.

(Source: sirimunasiha.wordpress.com)

Since neither the priest nor I was able to agree as to the exact location of the fortress we decided to call a truce, and discuss about the archeological importance of the site. According to local folklore the Avukana temple was donated by king Dhatusena to the monks of the Vijithapura parapura (dynasty), bringing it under the administration of this raja Maha Viharaya.  It was at this temple, that the king was said to have resided whilst, supervising his mighty constructions. In a neglected corner of the temple lies a mound of ancient brick guarded only by a few crumbling pillars. This is said to be a stupa built to preserve the ashes of the great Mahanama thera. For according to oral tradition the great thera is said to have passed away in this very temple.

The possible resting place of the ashes of the author of Mahawamsa…

The possible resting place of the ashes of the author of Mahawamsa…

The attack of Vijithapura is arguably the most vividly described battle scene in the Mahawamsa. The author of the great chronicle regales the reader with lively prose, not dissimilar to the grand style of Homer narrating the siege of Troy. I could not but wonder if this was in some way influenced by the author’s personal connection to Vijithapura

“…………….. All the Damilas on the bank of the river who had escaped death threw themselves for protection into the city named Vijitanagara. In a favorable open country he pitched a camp, and this became known by the name Khandhavarapitthi……………………………. Near the south gate befell a fearful battle between the warriors. But near the east gate did Velusumana, sitting on his horse, slay Damilas in great numbers. The Damilas shut the gate and the king sent thither his men. Kandula and Nandhimitta and Suranimila, at the south gate, and the three, Mahasona, Gotha and Theraputta, at the three other gates did their (great) deeds. The city had three trenches, was guarded by a high wall, and furnished with gates of wrought iron, difficult for enemies to destroy. Placing himself upon his knees and battering stones, mortar and bricks with his tusks did the elephant attack the gate of iron. But the Damilas who stood upon the gate-tower hurled down weapons of every kind, balls of red-hot iron and molten pitch. When the smoking pitch poured on his back Kandula, tormented with pains, betook him to a pool of water and dived there.`Here is no sura-draught for thee, go forth to the destroying of the iron gate, destroy the gate !’ thus said Gothambara to him. Then did the best of elephants again proudly take heart, and trumpeting he reared himself out of the water and stood defiantly on firm land.The elephants’ physician washed the pitch away and put on balm; the king mounted the elephant and, stroking his temples with his hand, he cheered him on with the words: `To thee I give, dear Kandula, the lordship over the whole island of Lanka.’

And when he had had choice fodder given to him, had covered him with a cloth and had put his armour on him and had bound upon his skin a seven times folded buffalo-hide and above it had laid a hide steeped in oil he set him free. Roaring like thunder he came, daring danger, and with his tusks pierced the panels of the gate and: trampled the threshold with his feet; and with uproar the gate crashed to the ground together with the arches of the gate. The crumbling mass from the gate-tower that fell upon the elephant’s back did Nandhimitta dash aside, striking it with his arms. When Kandula saw his deed, in contentment of heart he ceased from the former wrath he had nursed since he (Nandhimitta) had seized him by the tusks. That he might enter the town close behind him Kandula the best of elephants turned (to Nandhimitta) and looked at that warrior. But Nandhimitta thought: `I will not enter (the town) by the way opened by the elephant’ and with his arm did he break down the wall. Eighteen cubits high and eight usabhas long it crashed together. The (elephant) looked on Süranimila, but he too would not (follow in) the track but dashed forward, leaping the wall into the town. Gona also and Sona pressed forward, each one breaking down a gate. The elephant seized a cart-wheel, Mitta a waggon frame, Gotha a cocos-palm, Nimila his good sword, Mahasona a palmyra-palm, Theraputta his great club,’ and thus, rushing each by himself into the streets, they shattered the Damilas there. When the king in four months had destroyed Vijitanagara he went thence to Girilaka and slew the Damila Giriya. ……………..”

The current temple may… or may not have been the exact location of this epic battle. However, a quick study of the numerous sacred footprints, guard stones, urinal stones, building structures, stone pillars and treasure containers littering the site, provides ample proof as to the significance and the antiquity of the temple.

A plundered treasure container lies open and forgotten…

A plundered treasure container lies open and forgotten…

I thanked the priest and continued the last leg of the three wheel ride to Kekirawa junction. As the three wheeler was driving away, I took one last look at the stupa glistening white against the blue skies. Where giants have said to have attacked in all four directions, royal elephants have thundered on to iron fortifications and a bloody victory has been cheered by raising the lion flag of Duttugamunu… only the silence and symmetry of the stupa seem to remain.  From Kekirawa I took a bus to Colombo. Seats were readily available, and it was a most welcome opportunity catch a nap.

Sri Lanka possesses several renowned and venerated statues and sculptures of Lord Buddha. Among these the ‘Avukana’ statue commands a prominent position. This statue is adored all over the island to such an extent, that several full scale copies have been erected in Colombo (opposite BMICH), Dondra, Ratnapura, and Trincomalee.  But those who have actually been to Avukana are unlikely to compare these modern replicas molded from bricks and cement with the magnificent the original carved out of a living rock. The best time of the day to see the “Avukana” Buddha is definitely at sunrise around 7 a.m.  Watching the first rays of the sun unveiling the Siraspatha, the eyes, face and finally the full length the colossal statue is indeed an unforgettable experience. The statue at Avukana is inseparably linked with the giant sculpture at Ras Vehera, the Kala Wewa tank and the Vijithapura temple. Grand conceptions such as Kala Wewa and Jayaganga, are a proud testimony to the accumulation of local ingenuity, foresight, centuries of acute observation and the astounding unity of purpose displayed by our ancestors. Nourished by the waters of a giant irrigation network and shrouded with many a tale of Gods and kings, the basin of Kala Wewa remains one of the most historic and enigmatic regions in the island. Not all of these tales and folklore can be verified as factual. Some of these oral traditions even contradict what is generally accepted as historical fact. Thus, in many occasions being promptly dismissed as amusing tales. But none can deny these age old legends their charm. Like in all ancient communities around the globe, these oral traditions reflect the history, values, aesthetic sensitivity and spiritual beliefs of our ancestors. They have somehow retained the very “pulse” of a community long disappeared. Theirs was a way of life was untainted with the modern confusion about the meaning of life, erosion of fundamental human values, and disrespect for nature and for each other. Hence, these age old tales and beliefs are indeed windows through which we may gaze at ourselves through the centuries.  And the few who look, might catch a glimpse of what made us all “Sri Lankan”. It is said that the appeal of the western fairy tales lie not in the terror they invoke about dragons, but in showing us that even these terrifying creatures can be defeated. Perhaps our own oral traditions show us more than a glimpse of what life “used” to be. Perhaps their wonder and wisdom may open our eyes to see what life “can” be as well. But the true magic of these tales must be their absolute defiance to time itself. For in places like Vijithapura, these figments of imagination have proved to be far more enduring than the granite walls of legendary forts. And in the banks of Kala Wewa, the meeting of fertile minds and fertile plains have nourished an astonishing array of these timeless tales. There is something very special about observing a sunrise at Avukana, offering flowers at Ras Vehera, taking a pleasant walk along the bund of Kala Wewa, listening to a dark tale about the local deity or searching for traces of Vijithapura that inevitably draws ones thoughts to a distant past. In silent moments such as these, it is not difficult to picture Mahanama thera stepping into a raging river to save a young prince or Dhatusena surveying the giant mass of water with sad pride. The drama of Kadawara jumping to his death, Bharana chiseling a masterpiece, Kandula charging the gates of Vijithapura or a defeated sculptor laying down his tools at Ras Vehera all seemed very real as I watched the sunset at Kala Wewa. I had left Colombo the previous night eagerly prepared with a list of places and folklores to be explored. I left Kekirawa the next day completely exhausted, and with a mind filled with far more questions than I could have ever imagined…The drive from Kekirawa to Avukana by moonlight the same morning seemed a very long time ago. Who were the Moriyans? What caused the astonishing flourish of art, architecture and irrigation under their patronage? Who was Mahanama thera? Why did he end the chronicle of Mahawamsa with king Mahasen? Did he reside in Vijithapura temple? Why is Vijithapura given such a prominent place in his writings? Was Avukana sculpted by a sculptor named Bharana? Why was the statue at Sasseruwa left unfinished? Was there a connection between the statues at Ras Vehera and Avukana with the now destroyed Bamiya Buddha statues in Afghanistan? Did God Kadawara lose his life in a heroic attempt to save the tank or in a suicidal rage? Why is there such faith and fear for this Deity? Was the fortress of Vijithapura situated in the Kala Wewa region or close to Kaduruwela? Is the remaining parts of the ancient wall in Hiripitiyagama part of the Vijithapura Fortress? Did Duttugamunu and Elara fight an unrecorded duel during the battle of Vijithapura? Could Elara have escaped to Anuradhapura using an underground tunnel? Perhaps another visit to seek a few more answers…or discover more questions and folk lore…

Camping on Hanthana mountain range (1300m)

$
0
0
Year and Month January, 2015 (18th to 19th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 04 – Niroshan,Nirosh,Sadaruwan and Anuradha
Accommodation Camping
Transport Bus and walking
Activities Mountain climbing, Sightseeing, Camping and Photography
Weather Sunny
Route Colombo -> Peradeniya University -> Sarasawigama (සරසවිගම) -> Gal Oya Hadabima Janapadaya(ගල් ඔය හදබිම ජනපදය) -> Hanthana Range -> Hanthana Tea Estate West division -> Amaya Hills Hotel at Bowalawatta (බෝවලවත්ත) -> Peradeniya University -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Start the journey as early as possible.
  • There are few buses from Kandy to Sarasawigama. At least in every 30miutes time.
  • leech protection methods to be followed. We didn’t have much experience with leeches as we climbed in a dry day.
  • Better wear attire due to thorny bushes.
  • Carrying enough water is a must. No water sources on peaks of the range. Bring at least 1.5liter per a person.
  • Beware of Leopards. We spotted them somewhere down when we were walking over Katusukonda (කටුසුකොන්ද). Unfortunately we couldn’t snap them.
  • Carry necessary things for camping if you plan for camping. Fortunately we found an adequate water source for camping. But can’t predict it.
  • No need prior permission to go through peaks where transmission towers are placed. Nobody questions you.
  • If you cover the entire range what we did, you need at least 1.5days with night camping. I think it is not possible to do it in one day. But if you try such a plan carry enough water.
  • There are different routes to enter the range other than what we followed here.
  • There are seven prominent peaks here. Usually counting starts from Kandy side and the peak where transmission towers placed considered as 1st peak.
  • If you are camping be aware of spread of fire due to wind and dry Mana bushes. Hanthana is a common area of wild fire.
Author
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hanthana (හන්තාන) is one of famous mountain ranges in Sri Lanka. It is located in central hills closer to the second largest city of Sri Lanka-Kandy. Hanthana provides a good view of surrounding areas. This range has seven prominent peaks out of them Ura Ketu Gala (ඌරා කෙටූ ගල) is the highest.

A lot of University students have visited at Hanthana in their under graduate life as it is a common batch trip. But most of them go only to a part of Hanthana range.

I haven’t been there during my undergraduate days. Therefore this was a special journey for me. Then our objective was to cover entire Hanthana range in 2days with night camping.

Anuradha has climbed Hanthana range few times but not the whole range. He guided us during the trip.

First day early morning we three joined with Anuradha at Peradeniya University. Then we got a bus from there to Sarasawigama.
We got down at Sarasawigama bus stops and started the journey. First we walked along a tarred road and then came across a gravel road. The day was brightened and splendid view of Gampola (ගම්පොල) side was seen in my right hand side. Then we noticed the Hanthana range and we wanted to start from one end. Therefore we decided to get into the Pinus and Eucalyptus forest which situated just below the one end of the range.
After Pinus forest we came across a Mana patch which extends up to top of the first mountain. We reached first mountain around 12noon. (We had fairly late start)

On top of Hanthana range you can see Peacock Hills (මොණර කන්ද), Gampola Town, and Kabaragala (කබරගල)-highest Peak of Dolosbage Mountain, Kadugannawa (කඩුගන්නාව), Alagalla (අලගල්ල), and Mahaweli River, Bathalegala (බතලේගල), Ura Kanda (ඌරා කන්ද) and Piduruthalagala range. On the other side you can notice Knuckles (නකල්ස්) range, Hunnasgiriya (හුන්නස්ගිරිය), Wilshire, and Etipola (ඇටිපොල)

Waiting for the bus at UOP

Waiting for the bus at UOP

Starting at Sarasawigama Junction

Starting at Sarasawigama Junction

Climbing up.....

Climbing up…..

It was not easy to climb with all these camping stuff

It was not easy to climb with all these camping stuff

Entering to Gal Oya Hadabima

Entering to Gal Oya Hadabima – Click Image to Enlarge

Hanthana range was visible

Hanthana range was visible

Another junction we passed

Another junction we passed

Showing the direction

Showing the direction

This shows how we cross the Pinus patch and where we ended as 1st peak.

This shows how we cross the Pinus patch and where we ended as 1st peak.

Getting a rest

Getting a rest

Alagalla is framed

Alagalla is framed

Going through Pinus.....

Going through Pinus…..

Before start the actual climbing

Before start the actual climbing

Had to go on this kind of rock faces frequently

Had to go on this kind of rock faces frequently

Final cut down

Final cut down

What supposed to be the 7th peak

What supposed to be the 7th peak

Towards Uduwela (උඩුවෙල)

Towards Uduwela (උඩුවෙල)

Where Hanthana range ends

Where Hanthana range ends

Peacock Hills

Peacock Hills

River Mahaweli

River Mahaweli

Unique peak-Sri Pada

Unique peak-Sri Pada

Ura Ketu Gala (ඌරා කෙටූ ගල) -Highest peak of Hanthana range and was our next target

Ura Ketu Gala (ඌරා කෙටූ ගල) -Highest peak of Hanthana range and was our next target

One may think once you get onto the top of the range you can walk along the peaks of the range. It is not always true. Our next target was Ura Ketu Gala-highest peak of the range. But there was a considerable gap and a thick forest area in between the peak we reached and Ura Ketu Gala (ඌරා කෙටූ ගල). Therefore we had to go down first and cross the forest patch and then climb up.

It was bit difficult to cross the forest area as bushes were aligned together so tightly. Somehow we crossed it and climbed up towards the peak of Ura Ketu Gala (ඌරා කෙටූ ගල). Angle of the rock was about 700-800. Therefore we had to find a small gutter over the rock and climb along it (reminded me Lakegala). Once we reach the peak of Ura Ketu Gala we have noticed a group of students of Explora club of UOP was following us. But they selected a different route to reach the peak. They came to one end of Ura Ketu Gala and walked on the knife blade to reach the peak with the help of a rope.

The gutter on the rock we used to come up

The gutter on the rock we used to come up

Members of Explora club using the rope to come up

Members of Explora club using the rope to come up

Where we were-7th peak

Where we were-7th peak

Angle of the rock we had to walk

Angle of the rock we had to walk

7th peak

7th peak

Ura Ketu Gala. Black arrow shows the direction we used to climb up and towards the next peak. Yellow arrow shows the pathway of Explora club members on the knife blade edge

Ura Ketu Gala. Black arrow shows the direction we used to climb up and towards the next peak. Yellow arrow shows the pathway of Explora club members on the knife blade edge

On top of Ura Ketu Gala

On top of Ura Ketu Gala

Kohomba Kankariya-කොහොඹා කoකාරිය and Ura Ketu Gala -ඌරා කෙටූ ගල

Kohomba Kankariya is one of the main events of Kandyan dancing system. Origin of Kohomba Kankariya relates to Ura Ketu Gala.

According to legend, the origin of this ritual dates back even to King Panduvasudeva’s පන්ඩුවාසදේව era in which it was born. The king was inflicted with an incurable disease (Known as Diwidosaya-දිවිදෝසය), as a result of his predecessor, King Vijaya (විජය රජතුමා) not keeping his promise to Princess Kuveni (කුවේණි). It was the decision of God Sakra ශක්‍ර දේවීන්ද්‍රයා -the King of gods-that he could not be cured except by a person who was born out of a flower-known as the king of a flower. (The name ‘Male Rajuroowo’ මලේ රජ්ජුරුවෝ (prince from flowers) in Sinhala is derived from this episode). ‘Male Rajuroowo’ lived in India.

How could this be achieved? Sakra suggested that the only way the King of the flower could be brought into the island, was by means of Rahu (රාහු), the Chief of the Asura (අසුර) tribe. He suggested that Rahu should take the form of a Boar (ඌරා), and should destroy the garden of the King of the Flower. When it happened King came to the garden and chased the boar to kill by sword. But he couldn’t catch the boar and both came to Sri Lanka.

At Hanthana range when he tried to put the boar to the sword boar became a rock. This rock is known as Ura Ketu Gala. Then God Sakra came to the place and explained the purpose of bringing him to Sri Lanka.

The King of flower agreed to cure King Panduvasudeva and performed Kohomba Kankariya at Mahamewuna Garden at Anuradhapura. (Taken from: lankalibrary.com  and did some changes)

Coming to Ura Ketu Gala was a bit tough exercise and we have finished almost all the water bottles we carried. All were thirsty but Nirosh and Anuradha were affected by it well. Anuradha has planned to pitch our camp at “Katusu Konda”-කටුසු කොන්ද near a water stream (4th mountain for my counting). But it seemed we have to walk there without water.

After passing Ura Ketu Gala we entered 5th peak easily. There was a small cave which can accommodate about 3-4 people.

Sharing last bit of water

Sharing last bit of water

View of Ura Ketu Gala from 5th peak

View of Ura Ketu Gala from 5th peak

Passing over 5th peak

Passing over 5th peak

At cave

At cave

5th peak. You have to get down along the direction shows by the arrow to enter the cave.

5th peak. You have to get down along the direction shows by the arrow to enter the cave.

Rest of Hanthana Range

Rest of Hanthana Range

Next immediate peak-Katusukonda where we planned to pitch our tent

Next immediate peak-Katusukonda where we planned to pitch our tent

There was a thick forest patch in between 5th peak and Katusukonda (කටුසු කොන්ද). We were not able to cross it closer to the peak. Therefore we decided to go down parallel to the forest border and to find a foot pathway/ less thick area to cross. But dehydration and lack of water changed our plans. Eventually we determined to find a water source somehow. Anuradha and Sanadaruwan have pointed glistening of water over rock surface somewhere far away. Quickly we reached there and found a small water pocket on the ground, which is having continuous water supply. We couldn’t think about a better place for camping other than this.

White arrow shows the forest patch we couldn’t cross. Red arrow shows Katusukonda

White arrow shows the forest patch we couldn’t cross. Red arrow shows Katusukonda

Though we couldn't cross the forest patch, members of Explora club have crossed it somewhere down. They were on their way to Katusukonda.

Though we couldn’t cross the forest patch, members of Explora club have crossed it somewhere down. They were on their way to Katusukonda.

Our water source

Our water source

Sun set over Dolosbage (දොලොස්බාගේ) Peaks

Sun set over Dolosbage (දොලොස්බාගේ) Peaks

In between my hands

In between my hands

Enjoying at camp site

Enjoying at camp site

Camp fire

Camp fire

Preparing breakfast

Preparing breakfast

Luxury breakfast at camp site

Luxury breakfast at camp site

Just before start next day

Just before start next day

Day 02

Day 02 was also brightened as previous day. We went further down parallel to forest patch and found a foot pathway to cross. (Actually we found it previous day). Though it was easy to cross the forest patch we had to climb up a lot to reach the peak of Katusukonda.

Katusukonda (කටුසු කොන්ද) acquired it’s name due to distance appearance of peaks like a back of a lizard.

According to my numbering system it was the 4th significant peak.

The way towards Katusukonda was full of Mana bushes but it was not difficult to climb through it. On top of Katusukonda you can enjoy nice blow of wind and view of Knuckles range.

Climbing up through Mana bushes

Climbing up through Mana bushes

5th peak-yesterday evening we were there

5th peak-yesterday evening we were there

Nice combination of colours

Nice combination of colours

Katusukonda-කටුසු කොන්ද

Katusukonda-කටුසු කොන්ද

On top of Katusukonda-“Sulankapolla”-සුලo කපොල්ල

On top of Katusukonda-“Sulankapolla”-සුලo කපොල්ල

Five peaks of Knuckles seen

Five peaks of Knuckles seen

Bird's eye view of University of Peradeniya-Might be the Engineering Faculty

Bird’s eye view of University of Peradeniya-Might be the Engineering Faculty

Next three peaks we have to go

Next three peaks we have to go

At latter part of Katusukonda we came across another forest patch through which a foot pathway has gone. It was nice to enter a forest cover after Mana bushes and afternoon sunrays. Again we entered into Mana bushes and climbed to 3rd peak. On top of that someone has placed a flag. What we clearly noticed after Katusukonda foot pathway was clear. As this is the frequently visited area by climbers as Hanthana.

There was a mountain with Pinus cover in our left hand side in between Katusukonda (4th peak) and 3rd peak. If you start the climbing from Udaperadeniya side you may come through Pinus patch of this mountain and will end up at Katusukonda.

Rest at forest patch

Rest at forest patch

If you come from Udaperadeniya you will join the trail like this

If you come from Udaperadeniya you will join the trail like this

Flag on top of third peak is circled.

Flag on top of third peak is circled.

On the way to third peak

On the way to third peak

Note-Clear foot pathway

Note-Clear foot pathway

Looking back - Katusukonda

Looking back – Katusukonda

Ura Ketu Gala and Katusukonda

Ura Ketu Gala and Katusukonda

On top of 3rd peak

On top of 3rd peak

We descended into another thick Mana patch following 3rd peak and entered nice forest covering. Foot pathway was further clear and at some places it was marked. Then we started to climb again and came out of the forest to end up at 2nd peak. The peak with transmission towers was left to cross.

Getting down from 3rd peak

Getting down from 3rd peak

Forest cover

Forest cover

2nd and 1st peaks

2nd and 1st peaks

Clear foot pathway through Mana bushes

Clear foot pathway through Mana bushes

Zero degree of loose-foot pathway is marked

Zero degree of loose-foot pathway is marked

Another rock climbing to reach 2nd peak

Another rock climbing to reach 2nd peak

On top of 2nd peak

On top of 2nd peak

Hanthana range we passed

Hanthana range we passed

Second largest city of Sri Lanka-Kandy

Second largest city of Sri Lanka-Kandy

Train passing the town

Train passing the town

Colombo-Kandy road

Colombo-Kandy road

The foot pathway over the peak of towers (1st peak) goes just closer to the security fence. Nice view of busy Kandy city was seen at the end of Hanthana range. There were about 8 transmission towers on the 1st peak of Hanthana range. This must be the highest number of transmission towers placed on a single peak in Sri Lanka. We got down along the foot pathway from transmission towers and ended our journey.

Heading to transmission towers

Heading to transmission towers

Road gets connect

Road gets connect

Last bunch of transmission towers

Last bunch of transmission towers

Star shaped

Star shaped

Getting down

Getting down

If you follow this pipe line also you can ended up at Hanthana Tea Estate. We followed the foot pathway on right hand side of this pipe line.

If you follow this pipe line also you can ended up at Hanthana Tea Estate. We followed the foot pathway on right hand side of this pipe line.

Foot pathway which is in right hand side of the pipe line

Foot pathway which is in right hand side of the pipe line

At the End. Near famous Amaya Hills Hotel

At the End. Near famous Amaya Hills Hotel

The area we roamed-Taken on my way back to UOP

The area we roamed-Taken on my way back to UOP

image165

Click Map to Enlarge

Our starting point is shown by red star. Black line shows our pathway on Hanthana range. Blue star indicates Ura Ketu Gala (Hanthana 01) and pink star shows Hanthana 02-peak with towers. It is bit difficult to align these two maps together.

Our starting point is shown by red star. Black line shows our pathway on Hanthana range. Blue star indicates Ura Ketu Gala (Hanthana 01) and pink star shows Hanthana 02-peak with towers. It is bit difficult to align these two maps together. – Click Map to Enlarge

Thanks for reading.

Roaming around Kingdom of Saradiel

$
0
0
Year and Month 2015 February
Number of Days 1
Crew Myself, Saoodh and 5 O/L Boys (aged 16)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public Transport and a three-wheel ride
Activities Scenery, Photography, Hiking, and Waterfall
Weather Sunny
Route
  • Daskara(10:00 am) -> Gelioya (10:15pm) -> Uthuwankada Junction(11:15 am) -> Uthuwankanda/Saradiel Village (11:45 am) -> Gondiwela (1:30 am) -> Bo-Ella (2:00 am) -> Koondeniya (3:00 pm) -> Mawanella (3:30 pm) -> Brick bridge
  •  Return on the Same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Carry water for Drinking.
  • Avoid rainy days for hiking
  • Carry a rope to use in climbing
  • Do not try Bath/swimming in unknown places
Author Ramzy
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This was an unplanned trip for me. Some Boys in the Village wanted them to be taken for a short trip. So we decided to go to Uthuwankanda and Bo-ella. We gathered at Daskara and started the trip late at around 10 am. We came to Gelioya town by 2 threewheeler (120/-/TW) and got in to a Gampola-Colombo Bus and get down at Uthuwankanda Junction

The Map

The Map

Uthuwankandha Rock is located 1KM far from the Colombo-Kandy Main Road. So we decided to put a walk to the location. It took 30 minutes to reach the place.

Uthuwankanda Rock !

Uthuwankanda Rock !

Starting point. Uthuwankanda Rock !

Starting point. Uthuwankanda Rock !

From this place we need to take the left path which is heading to Rock. This hike to 30-45 mininutes for us and the path is not much difficult.

Easy path

Easy path

Rubber Extractions!

Rubber Extractions!

A Resting Place at top

A Resting Place at top

The rocky path.

The rocky path.

Need more Resting

Need more Resting

Binocular time!

Binocular time!

At the top there are two big rock areas. There is a Small cave like place in this place ideal for a night stay. Reaching the Second rock where the Finger type rocks located must be climbed with care. For this we need a small rope (3M).

Cave Between rocks

Cave Between rocks

Climbing easy

Climbing easy

.

.

This part of the rock gives a good view to the all the places around. Be cautious and do not make sounds at the top.There are Bee nests.

Bee Nests

Bee Nests

Alagalla

Alagalla

Saradiel Village

Saradiel Village

Kegalle Side - Colombo road can be seen

Kegalle Side – Colombo road can be seen

Kegalle to Mawanella Road – The Valley

Kegalle to Mawanella Road – The Valley

The Mini Rock!

The Mini Rock!

.

.

.

.

Fingers

Fingers

Taking Risk

Taking Risk

We Spent some time and had some snacks. We decided to leave the place and everyone wanted to go to the next destination.

We reached the bottom in 15 minutes and just put check on the Saradiel Village.

The Ticket Counter

The Ticket Counter

Some Cement Works

Some Cement Works

Mawanella Brick Bridge

Mawanella Brick Bridge

We didn’t go inside this place and we started our journey to Bo-ella. We asked for the direction from a villager and the he directed us to take the concrete road path from the temple located 200 meters away. We took the path and reached Gondiwela as shown in the map.

.

.

From Gondiwela, we hired a three wheeler to Bo-Ella (Piagio) for only 300/- for 7 people!.

Steps..

Steps..

.

.

.

.

The Natural Pool

The Natural Pool

.

.

.

.

Moon is on his hand

Moon is on his hand

.

.

.

.

We left the place around 3pm and came back to Koondeniya junction. From there we were able to catch the Wegantale – Mawanella bus. We reached Mawanella around 3.30 and all of wanted to have a bath.

The Place near the Brick Bridge is a safe place to have a bath. We reached this place by Kiringadeniya School School road and had a bath their. at the same time had a look on the bridge as well.

Brick Bridge

Brick Bridge

.

.

Crystal Water

Crystal Water

.

.

.

.

We had out lunch around 4.30 pm at this place and Went back to Mawanella town to catch the Bus to home. We Reached our homes around 6pm.

Mystery of Galagama falls finally reveled

$
0
0
Year and Month March, 2015
Number of Days One
Crew 6 (Lahiru, Malith, Supun and wife, Ruwan and myself)
Guide  A Guide for Galagama falls
Accommodation N/A
Transport Vezel & Pajero
Activities Waterfall hunting, Adventure drive, Scenic drive
Weather clear sky -> misty sky -> overcast conditions
Route Colombo -> Belihul oya -> Non perial -> Nagrak -> Belihul oya -> Beragala -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Wear attire suitable for protection against thorns and cold climates
  • There are no leeches
  • Don’t disturb wild life
  • Though it’s an one hour hike you Need a guide (1.25Km)
  • Keep an open eye on the weather (if it rains or mist comes down the hike is tough)
  • You need 4WD vehicles and to pass the factory gate you need permission (Fac no: 0455622581)
  • Careful driving is needed

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** My crew for their photographs

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

 

The map (taken from Malikas post) - click to enlarge

The map (taken from Malikas post) – click to enlarge

Galagama as seen from Havagala

Galagama as seen from Havagala

Mysteries are to be solved and this time we made sure to put an end to this long lasting mystery. Galagama falls which is very well marked on many maps is a glamorous beauty hidden in the wilderness. It all started many years back when a discussion was started in our forum regarding this mysterious fall. Few years back when Lahiru and I decided to reveal this mystery we ended up with a failure. So both of us were ever so determined to finish off what we once started in 2012. I have seen this waterfall once when we hiked Havagala few years back and also saw few close ups from one of my friends(Supun) who had been there previously but only to note the completely dried out waterfall.

This was arranged suddenly out of nowhere and we were eyeing on the weather till the last minute. Our team comprised of Lahiru, Malith Supun and his wife plus Ruwan. Malith, Lahiru and I came from Colombo to be united at Belihul oya with the other 3 who came from Badulla hospital. After winding along the scenic road to non perial we reached the tea factory where we needed to get permission to proceed towards Nagrak. The surrounding scenery was very rewarding and since it had rained during the past week the cascades were in full flow. The road from Hirikatu oya camp site onwards was in bad condition and one needs to be careful when driving uphill. Some hair pin bends needed to be reversed and re attempted. On our way up tackling the 33 hair pin bends we came across newly concreted stretches. We also didn’t forget to stop at Backers bend and enjoy the lovely scenery towards Samanala wewa while reaching Nagrak. After reaching Nagrak and halting our vehicles we met Nishan who was our pre-arranged guide for this journey. We selected him because he had gone with Supun and the team few years back and our picking was an excellent choice.

morning rays

morning rays

a cascade of hirikatu oya

a cascade of hirikatu oya

Non perial falls

Non perial falls

its lower section

its lower section

we named this one banana falls

we named this one banana falls

road side cascades

road side cascades

Adara kanda seen on the way

Adara kanda seen on the way

samanala wewa and udawalawa seen on the way

samanala wewa and udawalawa seen on the way

closing on bakers bend

closing on bakers bend

concreted ( in the backdrop gommolli range could be seen)

concreted ( in the backdrop gommolli range could be seen)

view from bakers bend

view from bakers bend

samanala wewa zoomed

samanala wewa zoomed

bend no 23

bend no 23

heaven

heaven

towards worlds end drop

towards worlds end drop

reaching the last few bends

reaching the last few bends

then came the mist

then came the mist

proudly halted

proudly halted

nassdanda division

Nassdanda division

valley of belihul oya

valley of belihul oya

misty mountains

misty mountains

cute pup at Nagrak

cute pup at Nagrak

We walked along the estate road towards the 33rd bend where the foot path begins. One needs a guide on this journey because there are plenty of misleading paths and also if you miss the correct path, getting to the base of the waterfall would be only a dream. Initial path took us through a small bamboo patch which ended up on a hill (this was the highest point of our journey). From here it was a gradual descend through bamboo and Nelu until we met our first landmark which was a water stream. After this stream we crossed another mini stream and entered a spooky forest path which ran along a base of a rocky cliff. This forest patch was one of a kind and I have never come across any like this before. It was so misty spooky and covered with ferns and etc. I loved this stretch a lot; from here it was only matters of minutes before we heard the roaming sound of the mysterious angel. Out of the forest we were on top of a rock gazing at a beautiful cascaded hidden in a veil of mist which mesmerized us and made us speechless for few minutes.

off we go

off we go

lonely tree

lonely tree

patterns

patterns

probably an introduced species

probably an introduced species

trail head at bend no 33

trail head at bend no 33

my favourite

my favourite

along the foot path

along the foot path

unknown

unknown

summit point

summit point

contrasting

contrasting

mountain forest

mountain forest

maha hedaya

maha hedaya

old mans beared

old mans beared

enjoying the hike

enjoying the hike

more colours

more colours

the forest

the forest

first way point

first way point

micro life

micro life

life on life

life on life

fallen orchid plant

fallen orchid plant

very common at this altitude

very common at this altitude

along the ridge

along the ridge

mountain forest

mountain forest

mushrooms

mushrooms

The heart was pumping so fast after seen this gorgeous beauty, I felt like shouting out loudly at that moment. Mighty Belihul oya was plunging down resembling upper Ramboda falls and it was surely more than 60m in height. In few minutes the curtain of mist opened up and showed us her full glory. It was like seen a naked women with an absolutely astonishing figure. All of us were clicking and clicking before the mist decided it was enough. Though we waited for some time it showed no signs of clearing off. On a clear day one could clearly see Havagala from the base of this waterfall but we weren’t fortunate enough.

First glimpse

First glimpse

wow here she is

wow here she is

please clear off

please clear off

once a dream

once a dream

plunging down

plunging down

the valley

the valley

ront view

front view

fully cleared

fully cleared

descending from top is not possible

descending from top is not possible

here comes the mist

here comes the mist

the base

the base

waiting till the mist clears off

waiting till the mist clears off

In august 2012(image owner Supun)

In august 2012(image owner Supun)

on a clear day Hagala could be seen (image owner Supun)

on a clear day Hagala could be seen (image owner Supun)

minus me

minus me

We decided to get back before the evening showers decided to fall upon us so we backtracked along our path. Since Supuns wife was the pace controller of our team we had plenty of time to have many chit chats inside the forest. It was sought of a relaxed journey thanks to her. We reached the tea estate after a 4 ½ hour hike (actually it would only take 2 1/2hrs) and sat down and relaxed a bit before we thanked our excellent guide Nishan and took off towards the main road. We were very well kept away from the falling showers until the last moment when we reached the main road. After having lunch at Halpe we said good bye to each other and vanished towards our destinations feeling so proud with what we achieved on that day. So this is another beautiful end to one of my dreams which is now a reality.

returning back

returning back

ferns

ferns

bamboo

bamboo

 the trail

the trail

spooky forest

spooky forest

unique

unique

finally came out

finally came out

1KG of murukku

1KG of murukku

bakers bend

bakers bend

rainbow

rainbow

7 falls of non perial

7 falls of non perial

cascades of 7 falls of non perial

cascades of 7 falls of non perial

cascades of 7 falls of non perial

cascades of 7 falls of non perial

road side cascade

road side cascade

bye bye

bye bye

Papulugala fall?

Papulugala fall?

vicious surathalee

vicious surathalee

vicious brampton cascade

vicious brampton cascade


Relentless Trying Paid Dividends – Kurundu Oya Ella…

$
0
0
Year and Month 18 Jan, 2015
Number of Days 1
Crew Hasitha, Athula & Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Car
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Gloomy and misty in the morning but very sunny towards the afternoon.
Route Maharagama->Avissawella->Hatton->Nuwara Eliya->Ragala->Kurundu Oya Ella and return on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • There are a few paths to the Kurundu Oya Ella but we took the path from the Walapane Peace Pagoda which is the known and used by many.
    • It’s a steady climb through the hills so be prepared to walk about 3-4km uphill.
    • Getting down to the falls is not easy due to the lack of a proper footpath. The forest patch has poisonous plants such as Maaussa which will make your skin red and itchy if come into contact.
    • There’s a new hydro power project under construction closer to the base of the falls and they have put up a concrete-paved pathway to it. There’s a notice saying “No Entrance” so better to avoid it as our trying to get to the base via this was flatly refused both security and the officials involved in the project.
    • There’s a vegetable patch passing this entrance and the forest patch will start beyond this. There are faint signs of a footpath but now it’s kinda blocked and vanished due to lack of usage.
    • Be careful when and if you ask for directions to the waterfall from the people nearby coz there’s another relatively smaller waterfall that they refer to as “Ella” and they’ll direct you to it most of the time. Kurundu Oya name doesn’t ring that magical bell in them so better watch it.
    • Carry water and something to eat with you.
    • Check Niroshan’s Report when he visited this beauty some time ago. He’d managed to get to the base but that footpath is no more.
    • Help protect the Mother Nature.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Kurundu Oya Ella has been a very difficult customer all this time evading from our view every time we tried to get close to her. I don’t have to tell you how frustrated I felt missing her very narrowly about 3 times before. She proved to be a tough cookie and I intended to go see her even if it was the last thing I’d do. While the time passed and opportunities lost, I had kinda taken a backward approach mainly because of visiting a bunch of them during the heavy rains appealed more to my waterfall hungry mind.

As the rains eased, water levels decreased overnight proving that our soil has lost its water retention capability. Thanks to all the destruction of rain forests the monsoon season is shot to hell. The good old farmers who used to predict the weather a helluva lot better than our Met Department now find themselves flabbergasted by the sudden changes in the weather patterns. Now there’s no average rainfall as such. It either rains like hell or the drought is there in full force making the lives of humans, animals and plants suffer mercilessly.

So while the rains were there, I was busy wandering around the areas where there are clusters of waterfalls such as Wewelwatte, Bambarakanda, Bulathkohupitiya, Nallathanniya, Mandaram Nuwara, etc. Kurundu Oya went clean out of my mind as a result. After my waterfall journey in and around Welimada in the New Year, I decided to call it a season and wait for the heavy rains hopefully in May-July to go searching for them.

However when Hasi called asking if there were any plans for waterfalls, my craving for them got just bigger. Anyhow I knew it’d be useless as the rains had stopped some 2-3 weeks before so was wondering whether to go see something else such as an archaeological site. Out of the blue, he suggested Kurundu Oya Ella and I felt like kicking myself for not thinking of her. When I put the suggestion to Atha, he seconded with no second thoughts. So having finalized the date for the 18 Jan, Sunday we waited patiently.

I tried to contact the old Tony several times to no avail. I guessed the fella must’ve lost the phone like previous times (this turned out to be the case later on). Waiting for a journey after all the planning is something hard to bear. The day doesn’t seem to come at all. Finally after a lot of haggling over, it was Saturday night and we got ready for an early start as traveling to Walapane via Hatton-Nuwara Eliya is not so easy.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Peace Pagoda, Walapane.
  2. Kurundu Oya Ella, Walapane.

Having got ready around 3.30am, we left for Walapane passing the sleeping streets. We reached Hatton around 6am while the first of the rays were lighting the surrounding. Turning to Nuwara Eliya road, we saw this beautiful sight of the most sacred Sri Pada. This must be the mostly visited mountain in the whole wide world. It was a cloudless sky, a slight chill in the air and two layers of thing clouds hung above and across the summit as if decorating it for the early morning. Distant hills looked light green to dark, golden brown rays penetrated the tree branches making patterns in the mountain air.

The structures of the summit could be clearly visible and I felt like being in heaven. Those who were lucky enough to be on the summit must’ve got a spectacular view of the sunrise and I was feeling very jealous about them. Sunrise from Sri Pada is something one could never get enough of. After taking some pictures, we headed towards Nuwara Eliya.

Good morning!

Good morning!

There's the Most Sacred Mountain in the World

There’s the Most Sacred Mountain in the World

Just unbelievable

Just unbelievable

Closer

Closer

Amazing view

Amazing view

The A6 is now more or less fully done up to Nuwara Eliya save for a short stretch at Nanu Oya and the tunnel in Kotagala. St. Claire Rock was looking nice and charcoal grey with a few tiny streaks of water trickling down the surface ruining her nice and shiny black look. We can boast about having the mostly visited rock in the world with a beautiful name like St. Claire. What kinda idiotic planners we have in the parliament who can’t see the value of trying to promote these kinda beautiful things to the foreigners? We must have the most number of waterfalls in the whole world at such a small mass of land yet they all are ignored and destroyed everyday by the hydro-electric hunters.

The sky was cloudless and the chill was unbearable when we reached Nuwara Eliya and went for breakfast. The steaming mixed curry went nicely with the string hoppers and typical Indian Ala Bonda and Ulundu Wadei. We wolfed the whole thing down in no time and headed towards Walapane passing Boralanda.

The Galwala Ella, that I saw only a couple of weeks back in full flow was no more. With decreasing rains, her water levels had shrunk to nothing. Lovers’ Leap looked like a thin thread falling along the rocky boat-shaped slope. The never-ending demand for water by the ever-increasing population in and around Nuwara Eliya has reduced most of the falls in the area to only seasonal cascades. I guess there’s nothing much we can do about it but to try and visit them in the heavy rains.

We drove along passing the farmlands where the villagers were busy at work after the rains. Close to Ragala, you’ll get to a “Y” junction with a wide and carpeted road to the left and not so good one to the right. The right one will lead to Ragala Town and then towards Welimada via Udu Pussellawa while the left will take you to Walapane and then towards Padiyapelella, Rikillagaskada and Kandy. By mistake we first took the right and then got back onto the left. Walapane road is still under construction even though most of it is done.

We came across a kind of a landslide where the road had washed down completely. Fortunately the constructors had filled it with stones making it motorable. There’ll be a lot of work involved to get that stretch about 200m back to normal. We finally reached the entrance to Peace Pagoda, about 1-2km before the Walapane Town. One of the times we visited before we roamed around here trying to get proper directions without any success.

Peace Pagoda, Walapane

This time thankfully we had done our homework and stopped about 100m before the entrance to the pagoda at a concrete road going uphill to the left. This is the road that one has to take if going in a vehicle. It can lead you right up to the waterfall that is some 3-4km away from the main road. However, this is only possible in a high-clearance vehicle such as a double cab. I don’t think a 4WD is a must to do this but it’d surely be helpful especially if you try to do it in a rainy season.

We stopped closer to the concreted road in front of a shop. The owner was very helpful and told us about the confusion between “Ella” and the real Kurundu Oya Ella. Most of the villagers simply refer to the Ella as it’s located closer to the road and known as Ella. If you’re to visit this, go further towards Walapane passing the Peace Pagoda Entrance and take the first left concrete path. Last time we took this for about 1-1.5km but got no sign of a fall. However the shop owner said that it’s located closer to 2km from the main road. So we’d missed it by a tiny margin. This time we had no time to go see this despite water levels being healthy after the rains.

We got ready and started walking along the concrete-paved path about 100m when came across the steps going uphill to the left towards the Peace Pagoda. It was a very steep climb and at a rough guess, there are about well, some 200+ steps to the pagoda. This was kinda wake-up call for us and we labored up panting from twenty to dozen. Like all the other Peace Pagodas around the country (I’d visited at Rumassala and Sri Pada before) this too is a sight worth seeing.

The surrounding of the Pagoda was so beautiful and had a very soothing effect on the body and the mind alike. In the background were the hills painted in lush green and layers of mist were enveloping the whole area. Climbing up those steep steps was worth every drop of sweat shed. Golden painted Buddha Statue added to the tranquility of the place. In the distance, Randenigala Reservoir loomed filled to the brim and steps-like paddy field in various stages added to the picture. The sun had hidden himself behind the clouds protecting us from sun burns. After a brief stay, we decided to hurry it up as the time was running out without us even knowing.

Check the Report of Sri Pada Peace Pagoda

Going uphill

Going uphill

Very steep and tiring

Very steep and tiring

Looking down

Looking down

Tin Tin Appu

Tin Tin Appu

Gosh, more to go

Gosh, more to go

There comes the champs

There comes the champs

Entering the premises

Entering the premises

Shady path

Shady path

Some more to go

Some more to go

View towards Randenigala

View towards Randenigala

Distant paddy fields zoomed in

Distant paddy fields zoomed in

Randenigala zoomed

Randenigala zoomed

Side wall

Side wall

Vivid

Vivid

They were miles away

They were miles away

Wow

Wow

How come these pagodas are so beautiful and peaceful?

How come these pagodas are so beautiful and peaceful?

Creativity

Creativity

Well maintained grounds

Well maintained grounds

Big area

Big area

Some more

Some more

Can't read Japanese

Can’t read Japanese

The best view

The best view

Closer

Closer

Golden Buddha

Golden Buddha

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Again, can't read

Again, can’t read

Going towards the back

Going towards the back

Looks like the image house, could even be where monks stay

Looks like the image house, could even be where monks stay

From behind the temple

From behind the temple

Kurundu Oya Ella

One needs to take the road to the right behind the pagoda that goes slightly uphill. After a 100m or so, you will meet the concrete road that runs around the pagoda (remember you took a short cup up the steps about 100m into the concrete path). Here take the left uphill road that is stone paved now. We walked up while the rest of the area was shrouded in mist. Climbing up snaking around the road was tiresome but the scenery helped us a lot to forget about it.

After a km or so, we saw a small Kovil to our right. Near this looking down we could see the Peace Pagoda so much lower from where we stood. The road was now just gravel and the recent heavy rains have further deteriorated the condition. You might need a 4WD tacking this bit due to slipperiness. The distant view of the Randenigala was ruined by the merciless sun.

Having walked almost 1.5-2km, we arrived what looked like a plateau. There were line houses to our right below with towering hills above them. A steady hike brought us yet again to another Kovil to our right with the road branching like “Y-shaped”. You have to take the left (rather straight) road that goes slightly uphill. Another a few hundred meters will bring you to another problematic junction. Take the right hand path. The straight road will lead you to Maha Uva Estate. I guess one of the trails starting from Maha Uva Estate also leads to this point.

You’ll be circling the hill to your right and after another km or so will bring you to a fence blocked by a couple of sticks put across the entrance with a sign saying “Entrance Prohibited”. This is due to the newly started hydro project closer to the base of the falls. They’ve cleared a new road and concreted it to facilitate the vehicles to the base. However there’s a path to the left of the gate that runs parallel to the ravine below. We took that and found another fence but this time not closed after a couple of hundred meters.

The whole area was still shrouded in the mist but the deafening roar of the second largest waterfall in Sri Lanka was unmistakable. We took the last bit of the rock-paved path and took a sharp left turn to see the lower segment of this mighty lass. The view was still not so good and we could only get a glimpse of the lower part through the misty curtain. From where we stood, one could get a clear view of the full package but we had to sit tight for some time before the mist lifted.

There was a vegetable patch below us going towards the edge of the forest. We talked to one of the farmers and he said that nobody had attempted to get to the base for a long time and the heavy rains have covered the footpath through the thick forest patch. He further instructed us to go and speak to the security guard at the power plant seeking permission to get to the base via their land. This seemed a more plausible thing and we however waited a bit more hoping for a clearing of the mist.

We didn’t have a long wait as the mist cleared as if feeling sorry for us and there she was falling majestically through the lush greenery. There are three prominent segments of her. The upper most one being the smallest, the middle and the lower most parts probably with more or less similar heights. The farmer further revealed that the base of the upper part resembles a head of an elephant that could be seen when the water levels are low. One needs to climb through the jungle to the base or take the uphill journey through the tea estate. We simply couldn’t do it due to the thick undergrowth which hasn’t been cleared or used in months.

Another danger is the “Maussa Plant” which I’ve introduced to you when I was in Meemure. It’s a very dangerous one and if came into contact with the human skin (no idea about the animals) it’ll start scratching (just think about the caterpillar effects when brushed against the bare skin) and end result is high fever. The forest area is apparently full of them and it’s not easy to identify them and avoid. We didn’t want to take a chance due to this either so had to be content with the view offered from where we stood, some 400-500m away from the falls (as the crow flies).

After a couple of dozens of pictures, we decided to go see the security at the power project and ask for permission to get to the base of the lower part. We expected to see someone with in a uniform but there was one old person mixing cement apparently repairing the road. When we asked for permission, he flatly refused claiming he’d get into trouble with the owners if we were allowed in. No amount of pleading or reasoning convinced him that we were just a group of innocent travelers. However, he asked us to wait if possible as the owners of the project might come anytime and we might be able to get the permission from them.

However, he allowed us to take pictures from about 100m inside the fence where we could see the all three segments from the front beautifully. After about an hour’s wait, there was a red double cab coming but there was only the driver inside. The old caretaker had apparently lied to us saying there was no one when all of them had been at their premises close to the base which is hidden from where we stood. After half an hour, the cab came uphill bringing another 3 people apparently the owners. We asked for permission but flatly were turned down. Instead they pointed us towards the vegetable patch saying the path is from there not giving a toss about our explanations that wasn’t accessible.

Feeling down and hot in the piercing sun, we decided to go back and try the footpath beyond the vegetable patch. The farmers were busy at work and said very sadly that they couldn’t send anyone with us due to their workload which we understood. We carried on beyond the fence of the vegetable patch and entered the forest patch which was fully overgrown. Nevertheless, there was a faint marking of a footpath which we took. After 500m or so it vanished completely forcing us either to tackle the forest with nothing but cameras or turn around. We knew we were bushed and had no alternative other than going back. The time had gone past 3pm and it’d have taken more than a couple of hours minimum to do this journey.

Walking behind the temple for a few hundred meters brought us to the road. Go left

Walking behind the temple for a few hundred meters brought us to the road. Go left

Kept up the pace

Kept up the pace

Misty

Misty

Rocky borders

Rocky borders

Pagoda now below us

Pagoda now below us

Pagoda now below us

Pagoda now below us

Zoomed

Zoomed

Hmmm

Hmmm

Can see the road

Can see the road

First Kovil

First Kovil

Love the design but the misty atmosphere didn't get the colors well

Love the design but the misty atmosphere didn’t get the colors well

Grand view

Grand view

Our path is beyond those line houses you can see

Our path is beyond those line houses you can see

Farmers at work

Farmers at work

Contrast

Contrast

Playing time

Playing time

Looking back the road we came from. We were at the gap

Looking back the road we came from. We were at the gap

Well cut chocolate cake

Well cut chocolate cake

Like heaven

Like heaven

Can you see how much mist was there?

Can you see how much mist was there?

Freshly dug earth and the view beyond

Freshly dug earth and the view beyond

Second Kovil

Second Kovil

Take the road where Hasi and Atha standing

Take the road where Hasi and Atha standing

Hasi teaching a lesson to Atha on "How to count using fingers"

Hasi teaching a lesson to Atha on “How to count using fingers”

Second junction, take the road where Hasi standing. The left one is towards Maha Uva Estate. If people come from there, this is the joining point

Second junction, take the road where Hasi standing. The left one is towards Maha Uva Estate. If people come from there, this is the joining point

Couldn't resist anymore

Couldn’t resist anymore

No entrance but note the left path

No entrance but note the left path

Walking along the left path and looking back, see the road to the power project?

Walking along the left path and looking back, see the road to the power project?

Another barrier but not impossible to get in

Another barrier but not impossible to get in

Nicely done

Nicely done

Waiting for the mist to disappear

Waiting for the mist to disappear

First glimpse

First glimpse

Oh wow

Oh wow

Closer

Closer

There's Tony

There’s Tony

Finally mist decided to lift

Finally mist decided to lift

The top part, there are two prominent segments

The top part, there are two prominent segments

Top most

Top most

Centre

Centre

No words to express the beauty

No words to express the beauty

The guys with one of the farmers

The guys with one of the farmers

Hiya buddy!

Hiya buddy!

Going towards the security cum worker. Can you see him?

Going towards the security cum worker. Can you see him?

Surrounding mountains

Surrounding mountains

Didn't get to go to the base, only this view

Didn’t get to go to the base, only this view

Closer

Closer

Lush greenery all around

Lush greenery all around

Do you see the earth slip to the center of the picture?

Do you see the earth slip to the center of the picture?

Mist disappeared and sun arrived

Mist disappeared and sun arrived

Perfect position

Perfect position

The top

The top

The Center

The Center

And the bottom

And the bottom

Wide angle

Wide angle

Decided to go back towards the vegetable patch hoping to get to the base

Decided to go back towards the vegetable patch hoping to get to the base

Sun was up and shining

Sun was up and shining

It's very wide

It’s very wide

The mountains with the earth slip

The mountains with the earth slip

Macro

Macro

Another

Another

Beyond the Carrot plots

Beyond the Carrot plots

Thick forest

Thick forest

Another view of the top

Another view of the top

Sun reflecting

Sun reflecting

The base of the middle part

The base of the middle part

The lower part only partially visible

The lower part only partially visible

Beaten by the thick forest. This is the edge of the vegetable patch and the path used to be beyond this

Beaten by the thick forest. This is the edge of the vegetable patch and the path used to be beyond this

Time to go

Time to go

See you Tony!

See you Tony!

Beautiful landscapes

Beautiful landscapes

We had to walk through the gap to the right of the pic

We had to walk through the gap to the right of the pic

Pinky

Pinky

Gosh, more to go down

Gosh, more to go down

Beautifully placed

Beautifully placed

So having wasted closer to 4 hours without being able to get to the base, we took our leave. However, we managed to take a lot of pictures from the distance thanks to our zooming cameras. The long walk back took closer to another hour or so. Hasi and Atha took turns in driving we reached Kotagala around 5.30pm for our usual Lunner or Dinch (a meal between Lunch and Dinner, patent rights are with me for those words).

Driving beyond Avissawella is always a nightmare and this time it was no different despite the late hour. We reached home around 10pm feeling both sad and elated at the same time.

Well, folks that’s about it and hope you enjoyed the tale and got the info needed should you happen to visit this beauty. She’s worth a visit by all means. After all she’s the second highest in Sri Lanka and no traveler’s life would be complete without this journey.

Enjoy the Panos I took there as well.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Take care and keep travelling!

This is Sri signing off for now.

Cheers…

Through the Kuruwita Erathna trail in torrential rain – Off season hike to Sri Padaya (Adams Peak)

$
0
0
Year and Month July 2014
Number of Days 2 Days
Crew 3 – My Self, Thivanka, Buddhika & from Seetha Gangula onwards 6 Upul, Prageeth, Udayanath
Accommodation Heramitipana Ambalama (Gal Wangediya)
Transport Bus, Trishaw, Foot
Activities Pilgrimage / Hiking / Photography / Adventure
Weather
  • Day 1 – Heavy showers
  • Day 2 – Gloomy
Route Colombo -> Kuruwita -> Erathna -> Adavikanda -> Sri Padaya Peak -> Nallathanni -> Hatton -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Be prepared to experience the extreme weather conditions.
  • Be prepared with all essential needs such as sufficient food, medicine, appropriate clothing, cooking items if planning to cook, Torch / Headlamps etc• Pack all items (electronic, food, clothing) in plastic bags before pack in to a backpack
  • Heavy backpacks will make you worry always.
  • Water sources are many. Clean enough to drink
  • Hiking off season on this trail is not recommended for ladies
  • Start as early as possible
  • Leech attacks are usual on the trail
  • Most possibly the water level of “Seetha Gangula” will get higher if rains & water level will be changed instantly. Also the flow is very faster than we see. Avoid unnecessary risks
  • Path is visible. No chance of getting lost
  • Do not step out from the path for any explorations
  • Weather might be a barrier for photography
  • Possibility of meeting elephants around “Medahinna’ & “Indikatupana” / “Geththampana”
  • No civilization, no shops & no lights
  • No coverage (signal) for mobile phones until “Adiyamalathenna Ambalama” just before the peak
  • Accommodation at the peak cannot be guaranteed. It was locked
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize)
  • I could not take any photographs after “Seetha Gangula” until “Gal Wangediya” due to rain & nightfall
Author PasanA
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Padaya via Kuruwita Erathna Trail in off season was one of the most awaited hikes in my life. I have done Hatton – Nallathanni, Rathnapura – Palabaddala & Deraniyagala – Udamaliboda trails in off season respectively but not this. The continuous rain was a major barrier for us to fix a date, however the final decision was to do the trail without wasting time until rain stops. Also many trip reports stated “Avoid monsoon months” under special remarks and we wanted to see how it is during the monsoon.

To start the hike as early as possible we arranged a place to stay the night at Kuruvita (a rest house) & left Colombo before date. The bus from Colombo to Rathnapura took few hours to take us to Kuruwita. The place we arranged to stay was on the way to Erathna but very close to Kuruvita town.

Since we had time on the same day we went to the temple which was very close by (I couldn’t get the name). Also we did not forget to talk to the head priest because we could get some useful information. The head priest was kind enough to spend some time for a chat & specifically mentioned to be careful while crossing “Seetha Gangula” if water level is high & to be aware of the elephants while crossing “Medahinna” & “Indikatupana” area. Even during the Sri Pada season very few number of groups taking this route to the summit.

On the starting day we were able to catch the 1st bus to Erathna around 6.30am. From Kuruwita Junction it is around 10-12kms to Erathna & bus stopped there. Since it was drizzling at that time we did not start walking to the trailhead. We took a trishaw & that guy was kind enough to drop us at the trailhead.

Rain has stopped temporary & within few mins of walk we were able to make it to the water tunnels. We did not want to spend much time at any place since the plan was to reach the summit or make it at least to the “Gal Wangediya” (Heramitipana Ambalama – where Erathna & Palabaddala trails meet) before the nightfall. Climb was not that difficult since we were in full of enthusiasm & energy & we reached “Jambola Gaha Yata Ambalama.”

Reaching the tunnels

Reaching the tunnels

One small streams we crossed. These were everywhere

One small streams we crossed. These were everywhere

Another

Another

Another

Another

A tiny waterfall. These were born thanks to the rain

A tiny waterfall. These were born thanks to the rain

& another

& another

That’s bed rock of “Warnagala” covered with water.

That’s bed rock of “Warnagala” covered with water.

Jambola Gaha Yata Ambalama

Jambola Gaha Yata Ambalama

Jambola Gaha Yata Ambalama

Jambola Gaha Yata Ambalama

At Jambola Gaha Yata Ambalama

At Jambola Gaha Yata Ambalama

Thereafter the climb was steep which made us tired & slow. Rain was started and stopped in a short while luckily. We were able to cross the bridge at “Warnagala” & reach “Daimangala Ambalama” to have breakfast. The “bed rock of Warnagala” was fully covered with water letting no one to get in there.

More water

More water

We crossed this too

We crossed this too

A friend we met

A friend we met

More

More

Path

Path

Warnagala

Warnagala

Near the bridge at Warnagala

Near the bridge at Warnagala

The bridge

The bridge

While crossing the bridge

While crossing the bridge

At Diamondgala Ambalama

At Diamondgala Ambalama

For the breakfast - We were vegetarians for 7 days

For the breakfast – We were vegetarians for 7 days

View from Diamondgala Ambalama

View from Diamondgala Ambalama

The Buddha statue at Diamondgala Ambalama

The Buddha statue at Diamondgala Ambalama

These were found just behind the Diamondgala Ambalama

These were found just behind the Diamondgala Ambalama

The upper part of it.

The upper part of it.

After a quick breakfast we were back on track, passed the restricted area of Hydro plant and reached “Warnagala Ambalama”. Comparing with others it was not in a good condition. Finding the footpath which leads to “Warnagala Falls” was bit difficult. It is starting nearby the toilet which is in a side of ambalama & have to be careful while stepping. It is not far from there & takes only few mins. And it was not the “Warnagala Falls” which I have seen in photographs

These sections were rare

These sections were rare

A beauty

A beauty

Mist is back

Mist is back

Looking back

Looking back

Restricted area

Restricted area

Warnagala Ambalama

Warnagala Ambalama

Not in a good

Not in a good

To be replaced

To be replaced

Warnagala Falls

Warnagala Falls

Have you ever seen Warnagala Falls like this?

Have you ever seen Warnagala Falls like this?

Another one near by

Another one near by

Couldn’t capture the latter part. Too dangerous

Couldn’t capture the latter part. Too dangerous

After spending some time at “Warnagala Falls” we returned back to Ambalama and continued, but the rain did not allow us to continue much further. However we made it to “Seetha Gangula” in the rain.

As seen the water level was bit high and we thought it is possible to get through. But once stepped in to the water we felt it’s a high risk since it flows so fast. A small mistake can make us all worry because 10-20 meters downstream Seetha Gangula adjoining with Kuru Ganga & the flow of water will be faster than here. Then the “Warnagala Falls” & the “Bedrock of Warnagala”. In other words it is the fastest way of descending but as a lifeless.

Reaching Seetha Gangula

Reaching Seetha Gangula

Few meters downstream “Seetha Gangula” meets “Kuru Ganga” (Not clear due to mist)

Few meters downstream “Seetha Gangula” meets “Kuru Ganga” (Not clear due to mist)

Upstream

Upstream

Ambalama at Seetha Gangula

Ambalama at Seetha Gangula

Inside

Inside

As noticed there was a cable from this side to the other side but it was broken & trapped somewhere under water. Even we tried pulling it out, didn’t work. Then we kept Buddhika there with the stuff and went upstream through the jungle. That was to find a less wider place to cross. We had to give up that also due to the encounter with a Green Pit Wiper. It was on a tree & when I see, I already passed him & Thivanka was few inches away. We consider that as a signal from god telling us not to deviate from the route & get in to unnecessary troubles. Return back was immediate.

Pulling the cable out

Pulling the cable out

Above to give up

Above to give up

Rain started again

Rain started again

Notice the rock in the middle. Notice the water level. Photo 01

Notice the rock in the middle. Notice the water level. Photo 01

Photo 02

Photo 02

Photo 03

Photo 03

Photo 04

Photo 04

Downstream

Downstream

We started a fire using some news papers & wood which were inside the amablama because anyway we have to wait until the water level goes down & there’s no turning back. While waiting 3 more guys came. They were also having the same mania exactly like us. After a small interaction session & a hot plain tea we collected few pieces of rope which were in and around the ambalama in order to make a lengthy one

Starting a fire

Starting a fire

Done

Done

Meeting new friends

Meeting new friends

Making pain tea

Making pain tea

Upul was brave enough to cross the Saatha Gangula first and tied up the rope while Prageeth made it to the rock at the middle for more safety. Then me, it was so had to keep the balance while crossing. Could not depend only on the rope since we were not so sure about it. However everybody made it to the other side. Seetha Gangula took several hours from us.

From the other side. We made it

From the other side. We made it

The rope

The rope

There is another Amblama available but not in a good condition like the previous. From this point onwards there were no pit stops since we were running out of time. We reached Medahinna Ambalama by the nightfall & spent couple of mins there to eat something & mainly to take off leeches. The drizzling was turned in to a heavy rain but we decided to continue up to “Gal Wangediaya” & spend the night there.
No photographs after “Seetha Gangula” until “Gal Wangediya” due to rain & nightfall.

Resting at Medahinna Ambalama

Resting at Medahinna Ambalama

Again there were no stops. We came across with some new elephant droppings around Indikatupana area, maybe only few hours old. It truly became an examination of fitness & stamina. Heavy rain, Heavy backpacks, dark night, signs of elephants, no rest, middle of a jungle, shivering legs, aching shoulders, continues climb etc.

When reaching “Gal Wangediya” we felt like we reached home. Heramitipana Ambalama was ok to spend the night. The noodles we prepared for dinner was helped us to be temperate & gain some energy up to some extent.

Waiting for dinner

Waiting for dinner

Mmmm

Mmmm

Ready

Ready

Without flash

Without flash

Next day morning we started at around 6:30. Cement steps starts from here. Ascending was slow & there were many resting points. We always checked mobile phones for coverage to update our status to loved once & finally we were able to do it at “Adiyamalathenna”. We had the 1st sight of the peak at “Ehelakanuwa” where “Maha Giri Dambaya” Starts.

Heramitipana Ambalama – The place we spent the night

Heramitipana Ambalama – The place we spent the night

Heramitipana

Heramitipana

Surroundings

Surroundings

The team

The team

“Gal Wangediya” - Where Erathna & Palabaddala trails meet)

“Gal Wangediya” – Where Erathna & Palabaddala trails meet)

Gal Wangediya

Gal Wangediya

Gal Wangediya

Gal Wangediya

On the way scenery

On the way scenery

Climbing & resting

Climbing & resting

Reaching Adiyamalathenna

Reaching Adiyamalathenna

Adiyamalathenna

Adiyamalathenna

Like abandoned

Like abandoned

Looking back

Looking back

Way to go

Way to go

Ehelakanuwa

Ehelakanuwa

Maha Giri Dambaya Starts from here

Maha Giri Dambaya Starts from here

The 1st sight of the peak

The 1st sight of the peak

Looking back - From the middle of Maha Giri Dambaya

Looking back – From the middle of Maha Giri Dambaya

The Summit

The Summit

At the peak we met some guys who climbed up via Hatton route. They also have spent the night somewhere in the middle due to heavy rain. “Wishrama Shalawa” was locked & the caretaker was also not seen.

Uda Maluwa

Uda Maluwa

Panduru

Panduru

Misty

Misty

Newly placed

Newly placed

After spending some time at the peak we started descending via Hatton – Nallathanni route. It is the easiest & shortest way down. Also we did not forget to get in to the freezing cold water at Seetha Gangula

Descending

Descending

Safe to drink

Safe to drink

More to go

More to go

1st sight of Sama Chaitya - Just before Seetha Gangula

1st sight of Sama Chaitya – Just before Seetha Gangula

Seetha Gangula – Upper part

Seetha Gangula – Upper part

Seetha Gangula – Latter part

Seetha Gangula – Latter part

Didn’t get the name

Didn’t get the name

Sama Chaitya

Sama Chaitya

A complex of water falls

A complex of water falls

At Makara Thorana

At Makara Thorana

At the end of the trail we found hot roti in the hotel which is just after the bridge (Nallathanniya) & it was like heaven.

I believe this experience of off season hike will remain unforgettable in all 6 of our minds.

Last Rain forest of UVA (Udakiruwa)

$
0
0
Year and Month March, 2015
Number of Days One
Crew Myself
Accommodation N/A
Transport Pajero
Activities Hiking, Trekking, Waterfall hunting, Photography, Exploring a rain forest
Weather Clear sky
Route Monaragala -> Bibile -> Lunugala -> Udakiruwa -> Bibile -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (1L per person) and food products.
  • Don’t disturb wild life (many wild boars)
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Better to go parallel to Kiri oya
  • There are beautiful camp sites along the river
  • Ask road directions from locals
  • Leech protection is needed because there are thousands of them.
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
The map - Click to enlarge

The map – Click to enlarge

Would you believe if I said there is a rain forest in the dry mountain zones of eastern Sri lanka??? Yes there are two large patches of forest with plenty of “Hora” trees bordering “Kiri oya” (tributary of Kumbukkan oya) which is enclosed by two mountain ranges. It’s located in the Valley of Udakiruwa in Lunugala. Since I heard about this place for the first time from a friend I wanted to go there and finally I did manage to pay a visit recently. There was a very resourceful article from Rainforest protectors group which was done by a foreign monk who was meditating in this forest. He had done an immense job to protect it though he was not a Sri Lankan. Most of the land with “hora trees” are been cleared off for rubber and other plantations and the sad thing is these land actually belong to villages but I heard that they are ready to sell this precious land to rainforest protectors group and there is a fund raising project for it. For further information it’s better to contact Sriyantha on this. To reach Udakiruwa one needs to pass Lunugala town (if coming from Passara) then you will find a road to the right which starts at Udapanguwagama name board. Traveling 9km’s along winding downhill roads will take you to Udakiruwa. The road ends with a concreted stretch. Walk few hundred meters further and you would meet a small bridge. The left turn after the bridge will take you in to the “Hora forest” (this is a tractor road). Right turn will take you to Weragoda and Pallekiruwa also you could reach the forest hermitage through this path. I took the path through the forest and got down to the river. From here onwards it was a walk in a paradise. While enjoying the surrounding beauty I walked along the river until I came across the waterfall. On the way downstream I found a superb flat sandy area which is ideal for camping. May be I’ll do a camping trip one of this days at this lovely location. After I returned back I did have a conversation with few locals who didn’t forget to treat me with some local hospitality.

Rilaoluwa seen from udakiruwa rd

Rilaoluwa seen from udakiruwa rd

scenic road to Udakiruwa

scenic road to Udakiruwa

through the hora forest

through the hora forest

and here i go along Kiri oya which is an tributary of kubukkan oya

and here i go along Kiri oya which is an tributary of kubukkan oya

morning rays

morning rays

mushroom life

mushroom life

been filtered by giant Hora trees

been filtered by giant Hora trees

rays been filtered

rays been filtered

tall trees reaching the sky

tall trees reaching the sky

couldnt stop clicking

couldn’t stop clicking

 lovely rain forest

lovely rain forest

the only forest in the whole eastern region where these could be found

the only forest in the whole eastern region where these could be found

and more

and more

life on barks

life on barks

plenty of these guys

plenty of these guys

crystal clear water

crystal clear water

orchids

orchids

moss

moss

 flowing through one of the smallest rain forest in SL

flowing through one of the smallest rain forest in SL

washed away

washed away

two foot long giant earth worm

two foot long giant earth worm

one out of millions which attacked me

one out of millions which attacked me

webbed

webbed

wow

wow

the tall canpoy

the tall canopy

creepers

creepers

flora

flora

flows silently

flows silently

loved this one

loved this one

cleared out areas

cleared out areas

occasional foot paths

occasional foot paths

huge trunks

huge trunks

wet forest

wet forest

 living on the dead

living on the dead

dead wildboar

dead wild boar

lovely

lovely

striving for sun light

striving for sun light

my favourite

my favourite

wow

wow

 life is seen everywhere

life is seen everywhere

plenty of wildboar foot prints

plenty of wild boar foot prints

a cascade

a cascade

lovely place for a bath

lovely place for a bath

adding life to kiri oya

adding life to kiri oya

flowing down

flowing down

sun bath

sun bath

another cascade

another cascade

main cascade

main cascade

DOF

DOF

wallapatta issue

“wallapatta” issue

base pool

base pool

more mushrooms

more mushrooms

ah nice place to camp

ah nice place to camp

tempting

tempting

more creepers

more creepers

wonders of nature

wonders of nature

tall trees

tall trees

cleared for rubber

cleared for rubber

again some more mushrooms

again some more mushrooms

and another one

and another one

Cymbidium ensifolium

Cymbidium ensifolium

ah trying to hide him self

ah trying to hide him self

tractor roads

tractor roads

roof top

roof top

 tractor roads crossing the stream

tractor roads crossing the stream

another one enjoying some sun

another one enjoying some sun

the lovely walk

the lovely walk

plenty of these

plenty of these

sky scrapers

sky scrapers

no bark was spared

no bark was spared

Whitish flowers

Whitish flowers

I will be quoting the article from Rainforest protectors group here since it gives a good overview on this rain forest. Let’s all get together and try to protect this last rain forest in Uva which is a small part of the Lungs of Mother Earth.

Author:  Bhikkhu Nyanatusita

At the eastern edge of the Uva Province hill country, hidden at the bottom of a beautiful, remote valley east of Lunugala, near the village of Udakiruwa, there is a unique and unknown rainforest with large stands of Hora trees.

Normally forests with Hora or Dipterocarpus zeylanicus trees are found in the Southwestern wet zone areas of Singharaja, Galle and Ratnapura, but the local microclimate in the Uva valley has created conditions suitable for large stands of Hora trees of more than 40 meters in height that grow in the valley. There are also some very large Doona or Shorea trees. On the upper slopes of the valley, where conditions are drier, different kinds of trees such as Jack-fruit grow. The climate in the valley is humid and cool, probably due to winds and a brook called Kiri Oya meanders through it. The Kiri Oya or “Milk River” is named after its whitish colour, due to minerals leaching out of the white soils in the valley. The altitude of Udakiruwa village and the main forest is about 500 meters, the same as Kandy town. The village consists of about 50 houses and is relatively prosperous due to its Betel nut cultivations. There is one wild elephant left in the valley, the sole survivor of what used to be a herd of twelve a few decades ago. There are also Sambar deer, Barking deer, wild boar, and fishing cats as well as Grey Hornbills and Black Eagles. Although the main forest is mostly state owned forest, there are also large parts which are privately owned. The main threat to the forest is the conversion of private forest land (which used to be cultivated as hena slash and burn cultivations decades ago) to rubber tree plantations. Due to rising prices of rubber, this has already happened in a few places around the Udakiruwa village and also around the Pallekiruwa village. Last year a forest patch of a few acres with 25 meter high Hora trees was cleared along the Kiri Oya river right in the middle of the main forest area and now rubber trees have been planted here (see picture). A larger patch of forest was also cleared on the slope to the west of Udakiruwa village.

Rubber tree plantations are monocultures and are comparable to deserts: instead of a great variety of plants, insects, birds and animals, only one species, the rubber tree, is found here to the detriment of all the other species. Rubber latex is used in the manufacture of car tires, and the mass usage of cars leads to further pollution and destruction of the environment. Villagers regularly burn the slopes of the valley to create grassland that is used for hunting and cattle grazing. It’s obvious that several areas of former forest are now grass land due to past logging and frequent burning. There are also plans for a road between the villages that could further open up the valley for developments that could be adverse to the forest. The Udakiruwa rain forest is said to be the largest natural rainforest left in the mountains of Uva province. Elsewhere in the mountains of Uva, such as in the nearby Lunugala valley, the forests have all been cut down and converted to tea, pine, eucalypt and rubber plantations. The Udakiruwa rain forest and valley is therefore a kind of natural museum that reminds us of how Uva province looked in the past before the large scale plantation industries were started by the British. Disappearance of the rain forest here will reduce water supplies downstream and in the low country. The Kiri Oya is one of the two main tributaries of the Kumbuk Oya that flows through the Monaragala District. In areas in the valley where the forest has been cut down and replaced with grasslands, the streams quickly dry up after rains whereas on forested slopes the streams continue to run. Although cutting down forest can support short term economic development at the individual and regional level, in the long term there will be a great loss to the economy on the communal, national and international level because of reduced water supplies, soil erosion, lost flood controls, disappearance of plants and trees that are of great medical and horticultural value, loss of tourist revenue due to loss of scenery and wildlife.. The forest, with its majestic 40 meter high Hora trees with huge trunks and lush undergrowth consisting of shrubs and smaller trees also act as a large carbon-dioxide sink, reducing global warming. Protection of remnant rain forests such the ones in the Udakiruwa valley is therefore of great importance. Not only are the Hora trees unusual here but also various other plants that normally occur in the Southwest wet zone areas such as Freycineta walkeri, Asplenium nidus (Bird nest ferns), Dorstenia indica, Chirita zeylanica, Leptaspis urceolata, Elatostema surculosum, Daemonorops fasciculatus, Ophiorrhiza nemorosa, Gomphandra tetrandra, Amomum spp. Several wet zone epithetic orchid species such as Agrostophyllum zeylanicum, Flickingeria macraei and Schoenorchis nivea grow on trees in the valley and the elusive leafless, saprophytic orchid Aphyllorchis montana grows on the forest floor. Pattana areas with lemon grass (pengiri-mana) cover some areas of the slopes. Plants specific to mountain pattana grasslands such as Centranthera indica and Exacum trinervum grow here. The valley runs from north to south, parallel to the Lunugala valley. It is situated west of the Bibile – Monaragala road and east of the Lunugala – Passara road. Over the hill ridge to the east of the Udakiruwa valley the southeastern low country starts, and starting with the mountain ridge on the western side of the valley there are the tea, pine and eucalypt plantations of the mountains of Lunugala and Badulla. The largest areas with Hora stands are around 7° 2’44.37″N & 81°14’2.74″O between the Udakiruwa and the Weragoda and Pallekiruwa villages. There is also an area of Hora forest further downstream in the valley, south of the Pallekiruwa village (around 6°59’29.82″N, 81°13’42.10″O). The valley and its forests can be viewed in great detail through Google Earth. It would be a great loss to the Sri Lankan natural heritage if this beautiful, unique rainforest would be lost to rubber cultivation and other developments which have a short term benefit, but lead to a great long term loss. Hopefully naturalists will pay more attention to the area and call for greater protection so that future generations will be able to enjoy the natural splendors of the valley.

Most Sacred Mountain in the World – Sri Pada (Rajamale Route)

$
0
0
Year and Month 24-26 Jan, 2015
Number of Days 3
Crew Ana, Atha, Prasa and Me
Accommodation Fishing Hut, Maskeliya
Transport By SUV
Activities Photography, Hiking, Climbing Sri Pada, Relaxation, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Battaramulla->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Kalugala->Maussakelle->Mulgama->Moray Estate->Fishing Hut.Fishing Hut->Mulgama->Maussakelle->Maskeliya->Hatton->Avissawella->Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • Booking Fishing Hut in advance is essential, especially if you do it during the season.
    • Check the Detailed Info on Fishing Hut here.
    • Avoid rainy season as much as possible.
    • Leech protection is a must especially in the wet season.
    • From Mulgama Junction to Fishing Hut is about 12km and should ideally be done in a Jeep or similar vehicle. 4WD is not a must but would be handy when the conditions turn bad during rains.
    • If you’re climbing the Sri Pada, start as early as possible. It’s better to avoid doing this in the dark as the forest is frequented by Wild Boars and Leopards that can be dangerous.
    • Torches are a must.
    • No mobile reception at Fishing Hut but available at a few places further away. Sign postings are put up by the estate.
    • Cold weather attire is essential.
    • Be careful when bathing in the Baththulu Oya.
    • Medicine such as Paracetamol, Siddhalepa, etc. would come handy.
    • Don’t pluck those beautiful plants and bring them back with you. They won’t grow anywhere else so please leave them there.
    • Minimise the usage of Polythene and Plastic. If you use, please bring them back as those people at the place might not dispose of them properly.
    • Help protect the Mother Nature.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Pada, probably the most sacred and worshipped mountain in the whole universe, is a place where millions of pilgrims visit year after year. This is not just another mountain to be climbed but a place where people from many different religions, races and nationalities pay homage. This is a hallmark of the Buddhists where they worship the footprint of one (probably the greatest) of the great philosophers, mind you not just a religious leader, who had walked on this earth. However, there are a few other religious groups that believe this to be their religion leader’s footprint.

For the past hundreds maybe thousands of years countless number of people has visited this sacred place in the hope of getting some inner peace into their troubled minds. Not only those who seek some peace and quiet conquer this mountain but also adventurous travelers who need to test their stamina and add this mesmerizing peak to their ticked list. There are many others with so many reasons that come to this place in numbers.

Talking about Sri Lankans, they have been doing this journey from as far as we can dig into the history. The conditions had been so arduous and dangerous due to the sheer height and unforgiving terrain. However nothing has so far been able to stop the relentless trying and courage of the people and I’m very sure nothing will change that in the future either. From newborns to the great grandmothers and fathers this is a journey that needs to be achieved at least once in their lifetimes. It’s become a dream for many and even an obsession for some but everyone regardless of their age, physical & mental conditions and gender this is a must-do.

There are many people who have done and still do this journey as many times as possible. That is for many, something to boast about. To symbolize the number of attempts, there is a ritual they perform once at the summit. That is to ring a bell located at the peak depending on the number of times you’ve been there. For example, if that is your first time, you can ring the bell just once. If that was your tenth visit, you could ring it ten times. This is not a rule, but a simple and a long-lasting custom out of many by the pilgrims. Among them are some very interesting rituals performed by the devotees but I’ll leave you to search for them that are widely available in many reference books.

Recollections of my first visit to this sacred place are vague and sketchy. It occurred when I was a kid, probably around ten. Out of the few things I can recall are the overflowing people, Seetha Gangula (the stream that flows from the Sri Pada Mountain), darkness, extreme cold, never-ending steps and a rock hard fish bun whose exorbitant price made my granny’s eyes pop clean out of their sockets. She could only afford one and I can remember my teeth biting into the rocky bun and the pain which shot through the jaws all the way into the brain. We traveled in the night after a cold bath in the Seetha Gangula, climbing countless steps being chilled to the marrow making one of the team to lend his sweater to me. I had no idea as to why on earth we were doing that at the time. It all seemed very peculiar to see that many people trying to get to the top amid so many hardships. I was just another curious but childish kid who had no clue about this custom then.

Looking back I feel ashamed of feeling like that at the time. To this moment I’ve been to the Sri Pada five times, forgive me if I sound boastful. Out of them, except the first time I’ve done the other four times not because my family or anyone else but I really wanted to go there and feel the inner peace that course through my veins right into the mind and soul. It’s magical and I’m helpless if you ask me to put it into words. You gotta do it to be able to experience the sensational feeling runs through your mind. Those who have done it will surely know what I’m trying to get across to you.

There are six known paths to the top of the highest peak of the Samanala Mountain Range that is also the fourth highest in Sri Lanka. They are if I’m to list them according to the mostly used by the pilgrims:

  1. Hatton Route.
  2. Rathnapura aka Sri Palabaddala Route.
  3. Kuruwita aka Erathna Route.
  4. Rajamale Route.
  5. Maliboda Route.
  6. Dehenakanda aka Hapugasthenna Route.

This is also the ascending order in terms of difficulty as well. The distance ranges from 5km up to 14km depending on the trail. The shortest is believed to be the Hatton Route while the longest is the Kuruwita Route. The adventurous folks try to get to the top by all six routes while extra adventurous types keep searching for either to uncover the old ones or find new ways to reach their goals. That is one of my dreams as well, try and conquer this magical mountain in all six routes before I call it a lifetime and rest my bones. So far including the first time, I’ve been to the top thrice via Hatton Route (Check One of Them here) and once each via Rathnapura Route and Rajamale Route. What I’m trying to bring you is the latest of my journeys through the Rajamale Route.

Ana, Atha & Prasa had been with me (not forgetting the old Tony) for some unforgettable journeys recently. It’s been a great pleasure being able to travel with guys who share the same passion and their combined experience in life is a real bonus when it comes to planning and tackling difficulties. This time we chose Sri Pada mainly for two reasons. First to take Ana to this wonderful location for the first time and second I wanting to try a different way to the top. We carefully picked out the ideal time, accommodation, transportation and the route making sure the foundation stage of our journey was firmly placed. Then it was all down to our dedication, luck and the blessings of the Mother Nature which all fell nicely into place like a perfectly solved jigsaw puzzle.

Ana booked Fishing Hut, an isolated log-cabin-type place at the border of the Peak Wilderness with Baththulu Oya flowing right next. It’s like a paradise on earth surrounded by the lush greenery rain forest, set at the edge of a tea patch belonging to Moray Estate bordered by one side by the virgin flow of Baththulu Oya with an amazing view of the Sacred Mountain in the distance. Having been used by the English during the colonial era for trout fishing gave it the name Fishing Hut. The trout and fishing all have now become a part of the history but the isolated and peaceful environment is a stress buster for the workaholic. I’d wanted to visit the place so much after all the good things I’d come across about it. So finally being able to go and stay there for a couple of days was yet another dream come true for me. Additionally,climbing the Sri Pada through a trail not attempted before was a gem of an opportunity. I wasn’t gonna miss it for the world.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Fishing Hut.
  2. Sri Pada via Rajamale.

Day 01

We set off in the wee hours of 24th Saturday towards Del Housie aka Nallathanniya. It was during one of the Waterfall Hunts that I learned Nallathanniya was also called Del House. However in this journey it was revealed that the real term was Del Housie not Del House. I seem to learn new things quite a lot in my travels. The heavy rains that troubled more than three quarters of the country wreaking havoc had gone to a faraway land. The crescent moon shone up in the sky signaling perfect weather and someone had taken so much trouble to paste a few million diamond-like stars across the sky.

When we arrived at Kalugala junction it was still dark and we decided to take the old road via Laxapana to Maussakelle. The headlights made a big pool of light in front helping Ana maneuver the hairpin bends. We saw a couple of vehicles going to pay homage to the sacred mountain as this was Saturday. Arriving at a small Kovil with an abandoned tea factory below gave us a perfectly good view of the Seven Virgins and Laxapana Falls. The sky had turned off the halogen lamp and taken off the expensive diamonds she was wearing. Orange and pink glow appeared to the left most edge of the Seven Virgins notifying us of the arrival of the sun. The clouds were ablaze with bright yellow and golden rays reflecting on them while the sky was slowly getting into her more comfortable royal blue wrap. Tips of the naughty Seven Virgins got the first of the rays giving them a beautiful contrast between the top and the bottom. This called for a few pictures and we got down to be hit by a blast of cold air. It was scented with the freshness of the morning and we breathed in hungrily.

With it woke the ravenous worms in our bellies demanding for breakfast. We had no choice but to pamper them. The vegetable sandwiches tasted delicious. I’m no vegetarian but had always taken an effort to remain vegetarian during the previous visits to the holy mountain. Even that rocky fish bun I had in my first visit had nothing discriminating than a touch harmless vegetables as far as I can remember. I believe that it helps cleanse my mind free of wickedness and evil thoughts remaining vegetarian. It will also help you have a safe journey and do your rituals in peace. Some of you would want to differ but this is purely what I feel. Ana took great pains to plan our meals with no hint of meat of any kind. After a delicious breakfast (still wishing there were more of those lovely sandwiches) and a dozen or so pictures we got back into the vehicle and drove on.

Viewing point of Laxapana Falls...

Viewing point of Laxapana Falls…

Mighty Seven Virgins, note the tiny streak of Laxapana Falls

Mighty Seven Virgins, note the tiny streak of Laxapana Falls

Enjoying the breakfast while dogs kept begging for scraps

Enjoying the breakfast while dogs kept begging for scraps

Sun opens shop

Sun opens shop

Lighted

Lighted

The road was largely devoid of any traffic and we turned onto the Del Housie at Maussakelle. The police check point was active once again and they will take care of your musical instruments for you should you have any with you. Remember, you are visiting a very sacred place and must give the respect it’s due regardless of who you are. It’s advisable not to do anything to destroy the peacefulness of the surrounding by your reckless behavior. We drove on with a placid Maussakelle Reservoir to our left. Mulgama Lower Falls still had a decent amount of water but turning on we saw the sorry state of Mohini. She looked as if someone had kidnapped not only her child but also her white Saree as well. She was practically naked save for a few strings of muslin cloth hanging loosely over her. We felt shy to get down so drove on towards Mulgama Junction. Just before we decided to stop for a plain tea. The shop had just been opened up for the day and ginger-flavored plain tea warmed our bodies by a few degrees.

At Mulgama Junction, we turned to the left and stopped at a shop close by for a few provisions. There is closer to 12km from here to the fishing hut along a terrible road full of pot holes and jutting out rocks. A car or a similar type of vehicle will have a serious problem in this road whose condition got worse after the showers. Despite the bitter condition we enjoyed the scenery alike especially the Maussakelle Reservoir and perfectly plucked tea bushes glistening in the first rays of the day. In the far distance beyond the Maussakelle Reservoir lies urbanized Maskeliya town. After a couple of km, we entered Moray estate and reached the fishing hut turn into the right. The straight road will take you to the Moray tea factory and beyond towards the Peak Field Falls.

Entering Moray Estate

Entering Moray Estate

Beautiful day

Beautiful day

Wondering towards the reservoir

Wondering towards the reservoir

Mist rising from the water

Mist rising from the water

Perfect shadow

Perfect shadow

Gorgeous sky

Gorgeous sky

Royal blue

Royal blue

All around green

All around green

Ana with his million dollar smile

Ana with his million dollar smile

The road goes through the tea estate with a splendid view of the reservoir and beyond that Gartmore Falls. There is a short stretch of concrete paved road that will make your battered vehicle smile. We soon arrived at the summer hut which overlooks the Maussakelle Reservoir and to the right is the silky flow of Gartmore Falls and above her the hills and upper cascades of the Gartmore Estate. We carried on without stopping for a picture and entered the dusty estate road. Beyond the tea cultivation is the Peak Wilderness Nature Reserve. We got a grand view of the Sri Pada after a while. The sky was blue and a few stray clouds hung mischievously here and there. The cone-shaped peak had a gorgeous color combination of green and grey where the rock was exposed. The yellow painted structure on the top could be seen clearly. Ana had a helluva job of maneuvering around the uneven road and finally we arrived at the entrance to the fishing hut.

There were signs of various wild animals fixed among the tea plants such as Leopard (according to Prasa, Running Coach), Porcupine, Sambar Deer, Rabbits and Wild Boar. It’d gone 10am and as usual we were early but used the time to get used to the environment. Already there were three vehicles parked signaling some visitors were staying. Fortunately for us, they were going back on the same day and no other group had made a booking during our stay leaving the whole of the fishing hut for us to enjoy. I’ve put a separate post on the fishing hut which surely is useful for the future travelers. However, I’ll just run through the setup of the location so that you can get a feel of it.

Landscape

Landscape

A bridge along the road.

A bridge along the road.

Sri Pada covered in the mist

Sri Pada covered in the mist

Closer

Closer

Oranges

Oranges

The cabins are close by

The cabins are close by

There are four accommodation options at fishing hut. They are Cabin 1, 2, 3 & 4. They are located among the taller trees hidden from the view giving the much required privacy and isolation. There is a workers’ hut as well where they keep stuff and even stay over. Baththulu Oya flows closer to all the cabins separating the estate from the forest reserve. When you look from the front, the cabin 3 is at the extreme left while the camp site to the extreme right. Between these two are the cabin 2 & 1. The workers’ shed is between the cabin 2 & 1. There’s plenty of space separating the cabins and the parking space is big enough to keep more than half a dozen vehicles. Each cabin has their own access to the river should they feel like a cold bath. They also have a splendid view of the holy peak which is outstanding especially in the night when the summit is all lit up.

The other group left around 11.30am wishing us a happy holiday and we went to our cabin to prepare ourselves for the stay. The beds are made of the wooden sticks so they are not perfectly balanced. The mattresses are good but covered with a waterproof plastic cover. This was a bit uncomfortable as the bed sheets kept slipping in and around in the night. That cover feels very cold and should you come into contact in the night in your sleep, it’s bound to jolt you out of your dreams. It was very quiet save for the rustling of the leaves. Water levels were low so that the river kind of stayed still without making a sound. The caretaker was John, one of the estate workers and boy, he could cook really well. Ana took charge of meal planning and gave him a pre-planned menu for the entire period. Vegetarian was the theme and I’m sure we must have been the only group to have gone like that. While the lunch was being prepared, we went for a bath in the river. The water was freezing but Ana and Prasa didn’t mind one bit.

Around 12.30pm, we returned to the hut to find the laid table. There was Samba Rice with Dhal, Gotukola, Coconut Sambol and Papadam. We made short work of the food and devoured a cashew nut chocolate before going for a nap. It was cold and we slept soundly till 3.15pm when Ana woke us up for coffee.

Path to our cabin

Path to our cabin

Heavenly

Heavenly

There it is

There it is

Doesn't look much but adequate for our purpose

Doesn’t look much but adequate for our purpose

Main structure

Main structure

Leisure hut

Leisure hut

Ana posing in front of where the usual travelers had left their mark

Ana posing in front of where the usual travelers had left their mark

Tree house too

Tree house too

Leisure and tree huts

Leisure and tree huts

Our verandah

Our verandah

Dining area

Dining area

Two rooms and the bathroom

Two rooms and the bathroom

One of the rooms with bunk beds

One of the rooms with bunk beds

The other

The other

Going for a stroll

Going for a stroll

Another viewing platform

Another viewing platform

Not the Bogoda Wooden Bridge

Not the Bogoda Wooden Bridge

Nicely maintained

Nicely maintained

Towards Hut No. 1 and beyond camp site

Towards Hut No. 1 and beyond camp site

Just look at this

Just look at this

Still covered

Still covered

Entrance to the camp site

Entrance to the camp site

Above ground

Above ground

Steps to the top

Steps to the top

Nice place

Nice place

Baththulu Oya calm and placid

Baththulu Oya calm and placid

Another view

Another view

Framed

Framed

Viewing hut and the bridge

Viewing hut and the bridge

Finally the veil was lifted

Finally the veil was lifted

We were treated by this view

We were treated by this view

Prasa showing his skills

Prasa showing his skills

Baththulu Oya another angle

Baththulu Oya another angle

Doing the hardwork with a smile

Doing the hardwork with a smile

From the tree house

From the tree house

Calm water but very cold

Calm water but very cold

Doing the house keeping too

Doing the house keeping too

Beds are made

Beds are made

Washroom

Washroom

Insisted to go up the rickety steps

Insisted to go up the rickety steps

Shaky legs

Shaky legs

From our hut

From our hut

This is the Hut No. 2

This is the Hut No. 2

Main structure

Main structure

Front

Front

Summer huts

Summer huts

Other side

Other side

Very cold

Very cold

Where our guys had a bath

Where our guys had a bath

Still water

Still water

John doing the cooking

John doing the cooking

Ana already munching on a papadam

Ana already munching on a papadam

Hungry

Hungry

Steaming cup of coffee was all I needed and we then took a stroll towards the Rajamale trail head. There’s no electricity or mobile reception at the fishing hut which is always a relief. However if you want to make a phone call, walk up to the entrance gate (about 500m from the cabin) and then turn into the left uphill road that leads to the trail head after a km or so. As soon as you turn, there’s a signage saying mobile reception is available to that point with the service providers’ names. While others made calls, I spent previous fading light to take pictures. Walking up proved to be a bit too much so decided to cut the stroll in half and get back to the hut.

John and two other people were preparing for the night. There were four hurricane lamps and a Petromax lamp as well to light the cabin. The authorities were providing the kerosene for them as well unlike old days. Cutlery and gas (both cylinder and the cooker) are also provided. We enjoyed a rest in the open verandah-like area while they got busy with dinner. It was Rice once again with Canned Polos, Leeks, Beans, Mango and Papadam. It too was tasty. While Ana went to bed early, we kept experimenting with our point-n-shoot cameras to take some good shots of the lit holy peak. The upper lights along Hatton route were clearly visible while one from the Rathnapura side as well. The huge Buddhist Flag kept flashing while patches of mist covered the summit every now and then. No camera could have a better sight than with your own eyes. So we savored this magical moment to the maximum. None of us felt the cold staying out with our cameras and Atha’s tripod. Around 8.30pm, we felt tired and sleepy. As the following day had greater prospects, we decided to go to bed. The blankets helped to retain the warmth but a few times I was unlucky to feel the icy cold plastic cover. We slept like logs till I heard scraping and moving noises coming out of our room. I was all of a sudden as white as an A4 with fear.

Hey

Hey

Innocent look

Innocent look

Another

Another

Almighty yawn

Almighty yawn

John getting the firewood ready

John getting the firewood ready

Rabbits

Rabbits

Our cabin

Our cabin

Going for a walk

Going for a walk

Winding roads

Winding roads

Ana showing the tongue

Ana showing the tongue

Sacred mountain in the distance

Sacred mountain in the distance

There

There

Porcupines too

Porcupines too

Here's the junctin where the road forks. The left to Fishing Hut and the right to Rajamale Trail

Here’s the junctin where the road forks. The left to Fishing Hut and the right to Rajamale Trail

Prasa feeding the fish

Prasa feeding the fish

One of the few mobile reception spots and Ana making full use

One of the few mobile reception spots and Ana making full use

The road

The road

The team

The team

No Hunting

No Hunting

Ripe

Ripe

Preparing sandwiches for tomorrow

Preparing sandwiches for tomorrow

Final touches

Final touches

Hurricane lamps

Hurricane lamps

Lighting the petromax lamp

Lighting the petromax lamp

Taking pics

Taking pics

Getting the dinner ready

Getting the dinner ready

Polos

Polos

Mango

Mango

Leeks

Leeks

And Beans

And Beans

Tasting

Tasting

Hmmm... Just what the doctor ordered

Hmmm… Just what the doctor ordered

Nice and quiet

Nice and quiet

Crescent moon

Crescent moon

Day 02

I pulled the blanket down and listened hard, but nothing came. The phone showed the time as 3.23am. Gosh, what on earth am I supposed to be doing? Prasa was sleeping like a grizzly bear snoring so loudly as if a chainsaw cutting into a teak trunk. I got down trying to figure out what was the noise. The hurricane lamp in our room sent a faint beam of light which did very little to light the surrounding. Then I heard shuffling feet and clearing of the throat. Ana was already up and about. “Good morning!” I greeted him and he was already getting ready to make coffee. I too badly wanted a cuppa and in a little while both Atha and Prasa, having sawn the day’s quota of wood, joined us. By 4am we had all finished our morning coffee and got out to take a look at our target.

Sri Pada mountain peak was illuminated with the lights along the Hatton route. The mist came in and out blocking the view but mostly we had a better picture. You can get an even better view closer to the hut number one so Atha and I walked towards it leaving Prasa to help Ana organize the day. Our plan was to leave at 6am so we had to get everything ready in time. Thanks to our headlamps, we managed to get closer to the hut number one and set up the tripod. When we reached there, the view was even better. We could see a larger part of the mountain and spent more than half hour taking pictures. However, our not-so-complex point-n-shoots couldn’t get the desired effect of the long exposure shots but it couldn’t discourage us from trying. We got back to find John too had arrived and busily making Kadala for breakfast. Our water line was cut off and John said that it must have been the Sambar Deer. He’d spotted two of them near the entrance and they had apparently kicked the pipeline loose.

Cluster of gems, the Uda Maluwa seen from Fishing Hut

Cluster of gems, the Uda Maluwa seen from Fishing Hut

Closer, note the Buddhist Flag

Closer, note the Buddhist Flag

Closer

Closer

While he went to check on it, we packed the stuff we needed for the hike. Soon the water was back and we washed ourselves while John made tempered grams for breakfast with garlic, onion and chilies. Chef Ana and Assistant Chef Prasa had made two different sandwiches to take with us. Tomato & Chutney Sandwiches and Tomato & Seeni Sambol Sandwiches. We got everything into the vehicle and after a hearty breakfast drove onto the trail head which is about 1-1.5km away. It was 6.20am when we arrived at the summer hut marking the trail head set amid the tea estate. Looking back towards fishing hut we saw this beautiful sunrise. Of course we only saw the colorful clouds painted by the most creative artist in the whole wide world. They were pink, orange, purple, red, gold and grey. Just imagine the color combination being unfolded in front of your eyes. This was a real treat and we spent about 10 mins taking pictures when out of nowhere everything vanished as quickly as they arrived. In a way it was good as this change brought us back into the earth from heaven.

What an amazing sight

What an amazing sight

Mountains outlining the picture

Mountains outlining the picture

Burning Sky

Burning Sky

End of the show

End of the show

Little bit more

Little bit more

Summer hut

Summer hut

Newly built

Newly built

Getting ready

Getting ready

Lawrence of Arabia or Yasser Arafat?

Lawrence of Arabia or Yasser Arafat?

Running Coach

Running Coach

Our vehicle is over there

Our vehicle is over there

Going uphill

Going uphill

Uphill Journey

Ana was impatient to get to the summit so hurried us on but after a short time we realized that the oxygen levels are so thin and breathing was not so easy. In the end we settled for a slow but steady rhythm. First few hundred meters were through the tea estate before we entered the jungle. We soon arrived at the head of the jungle trail to find, to Prasa’s horror, leopard poo. There was so much and Prasa simply refused to go in front thereafter. We kept going feeling the chill but after a while we got used to the condition and kept going. There was a huge tree fallen across the path and an earth slip too. From there onwards, it was a steady climb. The path had gotten wider and due to the dry conditions, only a handful of leeches disturbed us. If you are doing this in the wet season, leech protection would be a must. We climbed for nearly two hours taking regular 15-60 second breaks. Sometimes they got dragged into minutes.

Our first target was the Sandagalathenna, a place set amid the forest but clear of any trees,  maybe the size of couple of volleyball courts. Anyone hiking via Rajamale stop here to rest and it’s an ideal camping site. However thanks to our reckless and destructive travelers camping here is not allowed now. Just imagine being here on a full moon Poya day admiring the majestic Sri Pada. Back to the four hikers laboring uphill panting like hunting dogs. We soon reached a somewhat flat area with a small rocky surface. Lowering our backpacks onto the ground we breathed a sigh of relief and looking in front saw the holy peak through the trees. It was simply breathtaking and looking closer thanks to the zoom capability, we could see the people coming down after the morning rituals. We rested about 10 mins while Atha making Jeewani for dehydration. The trick is to sip it before you get dehydrated or cramps paralyze you. After a couple of mouthfuls of them, we resumed our journey with renewed energy and courage. The sight of Sri Pada revived our bodies and our goal. Atha and Prasa had been on this trail before about a year and half ago. It’d been in wet conditions and they had been relentlessly attacked by the leeches. They further claimed the path had got wider and we saw the trees had been cut off using chainsaws not so long ago.

Had the treasure hunters been here with the blessings of the powers that be? The path was largely bordered by bamboo and Nelu, favorite snacks of the jumbos. Unfortunately many of them, especially the tuskers had paid with their lives for the greediness of the human kind. The water streams were dried out but we saw one about a km before Sandagalathenna. Around 9.30am, we came out to the open area of Sandagalathenna. It’s a rocky surface with a few patches of grass and the border consisting mainly of bamboo. There were a couple of Buddhist flags put up on sticks and they were flying in the air as if saluting the gorgeous looking Sri Pada. There wasn’t a hint of mist or clouds and we had this unbelievably rich color picture in front of us. This sure is heaven, the grey and green pointed peak set against a shiny blue sky dotted with a few milky white clouds. Below us were surrounded by the light green bamboo and plants. The ground was a mixture of sunburned grass and deep black rocky platform. Against all this stood four mesmerized hikers staring up at the sacred mountain with wide eyes and open mouths. A couple of birds chirped in the background and apart from that no other sound came. We were scared even to move a muscle not wanting to disturb the peacefulness of the place.

Entering the jungle path

Entering the jungle path

Leopard poo

Leopard poo

Fully eco friendly

Fully eco friendly

Through the thick bushes

Through the thick bushes

First of many breaks

First of many breaks

Golly!

Golly!

Bending the backs

Bending the backs

Prasa leading the way

Prasa leading the way

Much needed break, see the turn off around the fallen tree

Much needed break, see the turn off around the fallen tree

Tree cover from the sun

Tree cover from the sun

Uneven ground

Uneven ground

"Is there more to go?" Ana wondering out loud

“Is there more to go?” Ana wondering out loud

Clear blue sky through the trees

Clear blue sky through the trees

First glimpse

First glimpse

Typical Yasser Arafat symbol

Typical Yasser Arafat symbol

Sadu! Sadu!! Sadu!!!

Sadu! Sadu!! Sadu!!!

We gotta get there

We gotta get there

Mini Sandagalathenna, a tiny space before the Sandagalathenna

Mini Sandagalathenna, a tiny space before the Sandagalathenna

Making patterns

Making patterns

Bamboo border

Bamboo border

More garbage bins

More garbage bins

More of them

More of them

Door to heaven

Door to heaven

Blooming

Blooming

Dead tree art

Dead tree art

Dew

Dew

Just lost for words

Just lost for words

I don't know what to say

I don’t know what to say

Here we are at Sandagalathenna

Here we are at Sandagalathenna

Flying in the wind

Flying in the wind

Heaven on earth

Heaven on earth

He couldn't have been happier, see the million dollar smile

He couldn’t have been happier, see the million dollar smile

Posing

Posing

Time to get going

Time to get going

We had a biscuit and some more Jeewani. Sun was up and gearing up for a fiery noon. Thankfully the path apart from Sandagalathenna was nicely shaded by the trees making it a treat for not only the body, but also the mind. We cut our break short and got underway. I had my time clock set inside the brain counting off the minutes. There were deadlines to meet but I kept them all closer to my heart not wanting to make others panicky should we got behind the schedule. Ana, as usual, a systematic person, was keeping a close eye on the time and passed on the remarks but I was unmoved. My target was to take him to the summit, that was all that mattered. The way got narrower and steeper as we went on. Sri Pada kept looking at us waving her arms at us encouragingly. She got bigger and prettier as we closed in. After another hour or so we came to a height from where we could clearly see the Maussakelle reservoir below and miles beyond. Maskeliya town and many hills were there in the distant while a mist appeared to the left. Further up we got the first glimpse of Peace Pagoda below at Gangulthenna. Not a week before we saw the Peace Pagoda in Walapane on our way to the second highest waterfall in Sri Lanka, Kurundu Oya Ella.

Soon we knew that we were within touching distance of the Mahagiridamba or the final part of the Sri Pada. Mahagiridamba is roughly consisted of one thousand steps set in the steepest part before the peak. Rajamale trail joins the Hatton route at the Mahagiridamba saving many steps below and the open path that pilgrims have to take being scorched, if done in daytime, by the sun. That is the main reason why most people opt to hike either in the evening or night. It’ll also give them the opportunity to witness the sunrise as well. If you are wondering how we knew that we were close to the steps, well it was the smell. Not a very good one though, it was the stinking smell of human excrement and urine. Many so called pilgrims disgorge themselves at the entrance to the Rajamale trail thinking it is a natural toilet even though there are toilets built along the Hatton route at decent intervals. It’s a real pity that people don’t understand the value of keeping places, especially such sacred ones, nice and clean. Not only that we witnessed so much thrown food either side of the route as well. It was such an unpleasant sight and the smell coming from rotten garbage destroyed the beauty of the place. To make matters worse there’s plenty of polythene, such as biscuit wrappers, toffee wrappers, soft drink bottles, etc. The impact on the virgin rain forests is so great that at this rate we will have nothing but plastic-filled deserts. Therefore may I take this opportunity to request from everyone who visits this sacred place to try and help keep the environment clean please?

Back in the jungle

Back in the jungle

Flowers

Flowers

Shady path

Shady path

Kept up with us

Kept up with us

Break

Break

Contrast

Contrast

More

More

Couldn't get enough of

Couldn’t get enough of

Dead but artistic

Dead but artistic

Sniper on the path

Sniper on the path

Ooops

Ooops

Look at the spikes

Look at the spikes

Never ending scenery

Never ending scenery

Path narrowing down

Path narrowing down

Towards Yaka Andu Ella

Towards Yaka Andu Ella

Maussakelle

Maussakelle

Hmmm

Hmmm

Had to keep topping up

Had to keep topping up

Narrow and uneven

Narrow and uneven

Close up

Close up

There's the Peace Pagoda

There’s the Peace Pagoda

Zoomed

Zoomed

Just before the trail

Just before the trail

Final push

Final push

My internal clock chimed saying that another milestone reached. We were now almost at touching distance of the sacred mountain. However, the trick is not to get overly excited or when behind schedule not to get demotivated either. As Lord Buddha preached, take the middle path. We just kept it nice and easy, slow but steady. Atha and Prasa kept pushing ahead of Ana and me. We two kept it simple taking frequent but very tiny breaks every fifty steps or so. About midway through Ana suggested a cup of plain tea and we sat on a bench waiting for one at one of the shops. The sugary and watery lukewarm plain tea did very little to revive us and we got going. The final shop came and we rested our feet. Couple of people were haggling over the price of lotus flowers with the shop owner. They were going three for fifty rupees but they felt they were being cheated. We had no problem and got up for the final push. As we were taking the turn, there was the Ehala Kanuwa where especially kids and young ones paste a mixture of lime on a wooden pillar made of a real Ehala Tree. Moving on,  just below the Bhagawa Cave, the forest had been cleared and a blue tin structure had been built to cater for a Dansala (a typical Sri Lankan tradition, giving out food for free to the people during Vesak & Poson Poya days). The garbage container was overflowing with rotting left over food and polythene covers. Why on earth do something as good as this if you can’t or don’t take the trouble to remove the garbage? You are not going to be blessed or merited just because you give out food for free while destroying the environment.

We then reached the Bhagawa Cave which in the good old days was used by the pilgrims as a shelter when all the structures were not there especially on the top. Now the forest patch and the creepers have been cleared exposing the stone scriptures and the picture of King Nishshankamalla carved next to them. How practical and sensible it was to clear the area around is something very debatable. How good it was when the cave did look like one covered by the lush greenery? We then took the last set of steps to the summit. Up on the lower part of the peak were Atha and Prasa smiling down at us feeling really happy that we managed to get there in the end. We kept calling Ana “Dandu Kodu” as this was his first time to the sacred mountain. Usually the young is called “Kiri Kodu” when they do this for the first time and for the old  the term is “Dandu Kodu”. Kiri (milk in English) is fresh and new so that is used for the young. Dandu (sticks in English) is used to reflect on the experience and age thus using it for the old. So Dandu Kodu Ana accompanied by the rest of the team went up to the extreme summit leaving our baggage, shoes and caps as it was the custom.

It was not at all busy and unlike other times, we had the whole of the summit pretty much to ourselves despite this being a Sunday. We went and Ana rang the bell once to announce his first attempt at the mountain. Hopefully there’ll be another time for us to take him to the summit via a different route. Then, we climbed the short flight of stairs to where we worship the sacred footprint of Lord Buddha. There was a police officer and an army soldier there on guard but no one else. When busy you hardly get to come near the place let alone worship it but Mother Nature had different plans for us. Kneeling on the rocky flow in front of the footprint that is not visible to the pilgrims as it is covered for protection, was a feeling every human being must experience at least once in their lifetime. Even the wind was so mild and we were helped by the soldiers.

We were lucky to have had the place for us and touched the rock under which lies the sacred footprint of Lord Buddha. Atha and Prasa had worshipped before us and Ana followed me doing the rituals. Then we walked around seeing the huge bell placed on the top (do we really need that big a bell taking so much space of the already cramped summit is another debating thing) and the lamp below. After half hour or so, we decided to make it back. We (Ana & Me) arrived at the top at 12.05pm (little over 5.5 hours later, nearly half hour earlier than I had planned in my mental clock) and started our descend just after 12.30pm.

Here we are at the beginning of Mahagiridambaya

Here we are at the beginning of Mahagiridambaya

The notice at the foot

The notice at the foot

Feeding on the rotten food

Feeding on the rotten food

They're bound to die of food poisoning

They’re bound to die of food poisoning

Ready for the last bit

Ready for the last bit

Distant views

Distant views

Next generation on the up

Next generation on the up

More breaks,

More breaks,

Colorful

Colorful

Two generations met on the way up

Two generations met on the way up

They keep coming back

They keep coming back

Dead moth?

Dead moth?

Nope very much alive

Nope very much alive

Hard going

Hard going

Just before the last set of steps

Just before the last set of steps

Ehala Kanuwa

Ehala Kanuwa

Ana the Banana Man

Ana the Banana Man

Bhagawa Cave

Bhagawa Cave

King Nishshankamalla

King Nishshankamalla

Devoid of any vegetation now

Devoid of any vegetation now

Towards Maskeliya and beyond

Towards Maskeliya and beyond

Sandagalathenna in the middle

Sandagalathenna in the middle

We're here

We’re here

Everyone comes with a purpose

Everyone comes with a purpose

Watching

Watching

He too

He too

New Bell

New Bell

More additions

More additions

Burning throughout

Burning throughout

Cramped space

Cramped space

The Peak of the Most Sacred Mountain in the World

The Peak of the Most Sacred Mountain in the World

Downhill Journey

As we were coming down, a thick cloud of mist appeared enveloping the entire area. We could only see the steps for about 20m. This remained all along our return journey, giving us the protection from the sun. We made good time and got to the path in no time. About a km into the trail we stopped for a sandwich.

Arriving at Sandagalathenna around 1.30pm we stopped for a break. Looking back, there wasn’t a hint of the Sri Pada mountain. She was fully covered by the fog and we hit the trail once again. The last couple of kms turned out to be very challenging and exhausting. The path was so steep, unlike going up, the downhill journey tested our already battered limbs to the almost breaking point. After what felt like an eternity, we came out of the forest, but in fact it had only been two hours since Sandagalathenna.

Let's go

Let’s go

Mist coming thick and fast

Mist coming thick and fast

The path getting foggy

The path getting foggy

Back on the trail

Back on the trail

Enjoying home-made sandwiches

Enjoying home-made sandwiches

Obstacles

Obstacles

Getting covered

Getting covered

Dead Nelu plants to the left

Dead Nelu plants to the left

More

More

Silhouette of the bird

Silhouette of the bird

Back at Sandagalathenna

Back at Sandagalathenna

Tiny couple

Tiny couple

Final stretch

Final stretch

One of my favorite things to photograph

One of my favorite things to photograph

Note the shopping bag on Prasa's hip. He kept collecting all the polythene and plastic stuff all the way

Note the shopping bag on Prasa’s hip. He kept collecting all the polythene and plastic stuff all the way

Dead but life inside

Dead but life inside

Mini Sandagalathenna

Mini Sandagalathenna

Dusty Mushroom

Dusty Mushroom

Steep downhill

Steep downhill

Thick ones

Thick ones

Beautiful

Beautiful

Maintained well

Maintained well

Towards our destination

Towards our destination

Prasa with the collected plastic things, note even a rubber slipper was found

Prasa with the collected plastic things, note even a rubber slipper was found

Breaking News!

Breaking News!

Trail Head

Trail Head

By 3.30pm we came to the vehicle and rested our feet and bodies while making phone calls. Mobile reception was good here. We then arrived at the fishing hut and went for another cool dip in the river.

While the chill was getting unbearable we spent the rest of the evening reflecting on the climb. The dinner was served around 7.30pm and we hit the sack immediately after as our plan was to leave early the following morning.

Towards Hut 1

Towards Hut 1

The best out of all

The best out of all

Front view with Baththulu Oya in front

Front view with Baththulu Oya in front

Very nice

Very nice

Low water levels

Low water levels

Tiny ones

Tiny ones

Yawning monkey back again

Yawning monkey back again

Day 03

As usual despite the cold weather, which dropped below 12 degrees Celsius, we were up by 4am and started our return journey. After a hearty breakfast we bid farewell to John, our caretaker and the holy mountain that was now nicely visible. Driving along the estate road was a test but Ana had very little trouble. We arrived at the Moray estate summer hut with the view of Maussakelle reservoir as the sun was coming to office. The Gartmore falls looked spectacular and the two long thin lines of upper cascades got the first rays of the day. After a short picture journey we left for Colombo.

Sensational, ain't it?

Sensational, ain’t it?

Silhouette of the mountain

Silhouette of the mountain

Gartmore Falls

Gartmore Falls

Summer hut at the view point

Summer hut at the view point

Against the sunrise

Against the sunrise

Moussakelle

Moussakelle

Moray Tea Factory, the concrete winding road leads to Peak Field Estate and falls

Moray Tea Factory, the concrete winding road leads to Peak Field Estate and falls

Perfect ending...

Perfect ending…

Well folks that’s about it and this was a journey that will be in our hearts for the rest of our lives. Every bit of it we enjoyed thoroughly while Mother Nature looked after us as if a mother protecting her kids.

Just for you to get an idea, I’ve posted some pictures of the cabins at Fishing Hut. Unfortunately, there are no indoor pictures of No. 1 & 2, but the exterior will help you get an idea. I’d recommend them according to the numbers from 1 to 4. It all depends on however the number of people and your budget. For detailed information check out the link I’ve posted given on the notes.

I guess I’ve taken up so much of your time but hope it was worth the trouble.

With this, I’ve reached the sacred mountain via three routes and got another three remaining unless someone finds some more paths.

Do try and visit Sri Pada via Rajamale trail as well if you haven’t already done so.

So, time for me to say goodbye. I’ll see with the next adventurous fairy tale.

Until then, keep traveling and be safe.

Take care!

Sri…

Memorable journey to Ressa – Meemure

$
0
0
Year and Month January 2015 ( 18,19,20)
Number of Days Three days
Crew 02( Me and My Friend Madhawa )
Accommodation Nawarathne Mama’s Place 0813 804191
Transport
  • Colombo to Kandy By Train
  • Kandy to Hunnasgiriya by Bus
  • Hunnasgiriya to Meemure by Three Wheeler
  • Meemure to Narangamuwa – walking
  • Narangamuwa to Pallegama by Three wheeler
  • Palegama to Colombo via Dambulla by Buses
Activities Relaxing, Waterfall hunting ,Hiking
Weather Sunny on 18th , Morning Showers on 19th & Sunny on 20th
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Hunnasgiriya -> Meemmure -> Narangamuwa -> Pallegama -> Dambulla -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Useful Three wheel Contact at HunnasgiriyaSHIVA -0774 300009 . Usual rates for a drop at Meemure is Rs.2000/-. We paid little extra as he waited for nearly half an hour to see eli-hatha, Kaikawala
  • Set of small cascades called Elihatha Lies in between Kaikawala and Kumbukgola turn off(Y junction).After passing Kumbukgolla turn off for about 1km you will meet a bridge. After passing the bridge for200-300m there will be a foot path to right which is falling to a stream.( closer to a middle fall) .You have to go upstream and downstream to see the rest
  • Nawaratne ‘s Place you get basic facilities with normal food. Pls don’t expect luxuries. But he is now being converted from a guide to a leading accommodation provider. So he’s little busy and please try to cope with that. At Weekends Nawaratne’s place gets busy. Therefore try to go there in a weekday and give him a prior call.
  • Pls. Don’t litter. Protect nature
Author Harinda
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

I started my knuckles tours from Meemure. Since then I was fascinated by the beauty of knuckles and it made me to visit it 8 times so far. But most of the times I was loitering in Knuckles north ( Riverston area ) so that I was nearly forgetting loving Meemure. But Sri’s Set of reports was an eye opener and it convinced me that there are so many things to see in this small but miracle village. To my view it’s not the traditional and cultural values attract one’s mind towards Meemure ( As you’ll hardly see symptoms of such now ) but the evergreen forest around village attract the nature lovers. It still hides swiftly flowing streams, gigantic mountains, beautiful waterfalls, , grassy lands , caves , endemic flora and fauna etc…Last time my visit was a surface study about Meemure but this time I wanted to explore more….

As usually I picked one of my office mates and came to Fort railway station around 6.45 a.m. As we didn’t book the tickets to Kandy we had to travel all the way standing. But it was not a big problem as I had ample time to describe my friend about knuckles and Meemure area in that time. He was not only new to Meemure but also new to nature hikes, so I was very careful throughout the journey not to discourage or exhaust him. So around 9.30 Train came to Kandy and we had breakfast there. Then we took a three-wheeler and reached Dalada Maligawa and worshiped from outside. Then took a bus to Hunnasgiriya and it came there around 11.30. After purchasing some snacks and necessary items we got in to the Shiva’s three-wheeler. My friend Madawa was fascinated by the beauty of surrounding and we had to stop our three-wheeler at several points. I‘ll let the pictures talk.

Few facts about Meemure – Hunnasgiriya road

This is a 34 km long mortable road which ends at Meemure
Now all the way to Meemure, road is either carpeted or concreted
Earlier villages used Thawalama to carry goods to meemure and walked all the way .
Now one Isuzu van is operating only once in a day starting from Hunnasgiriya around 1.00 p.m.

Special land marks and distances from Hunnasgiriya

Deanston Forest office and Bungalow 8km
( From here you can hike Mini Worlds End and Dothalugala Peak.There is a camp site too in Dothalugla )

Loolwatta 14 km

Cobets Gap ( Windi gap) and the highest elevation of the road 19km
(From here you can take a by road to Thangappuwa(4 km) from Thangappuwa you can hike Knuckles peaks(5km) and trek to Alugallena(8km) )

Kumbukgola turn off 25km
(From Here you can visit Nitro caves (8 km ) )

Eli Hatha small set of Cascades – 26 km

Kaikawala Village ( closest village to Meemure ) – 29 km

Medamahanuwaragala seen From Hunnasgiriya- Loolwatta road

Medamahanuwaragala seen From Hunnasgiriya- Loolwatta road

Nawadagala

Nawadagala

This nature tour was totally new one to my friend

This nature tour was totally new one to my friend

Scenic road

Scenic road

Kingdom of mountains

Kingdom of mountains

My friend stopped at every stream

My friend stopped at every stream

At Loolwatta

At Loolwatta

Loolwaththa tea shop from where we had lunch ( Rotty & Wade)

Loolwaththa tea shop from where we had lunch ( Rotty & Wade)

Beautiful view

Beautiful view

Priceless

Priceless

Spinx rock –closer to cobets gap

Spinx rock –closer to cobets gap

View from cobets gap

View from cobets gap

@Cobetes gap ( Attala Mettuwa )……In Sinhala Attalaya means a Higher platform to view surrounding …..In Meemure loolwatta road this is the highest place from where one can view gigantic mountains clearly. Also the left uphill road(jeep track) will reach Thangappuwa(4km)

@Cobetes gap ( Attala Mettuwa )……In Sinhala Attalaya means a Higher platform to view surrounding …..In Meemure loolwatta road this is the highest place from where one can view gigantic mountains clearly. Also the left uphill road(jeep track) will reach Thangappuwa(4km)

Another view

Another view

View on the way

View on the way

Kumbukgolla turn off

Kumbukgolla turn off

Entrance to Kaikawala Waterfalls named as Eli Hatha

Entrance to Kaikawala Waterfalls named as Eli Hatha

3rd fall

3rd fall

2nd  ..had to go upstream

2nd ..had to go upstream

1st

1st

Crystal clear water

Crystal clear water

He was fascinated

He was fascinated

Deep pools. Heavenly place to have a bath (only if you know how to swim )

Deep pools. Heavenly place to have a bath (only if you know how to swim )

4th

4th

More view

More view

5th

5th

There were many cascades but did not try to attempt all

There were many cascades but did not try to attempt all

Icon of Meemure

Icon of Meemure

Mighty Lakegala

Mighty Lakegala

Fainally at Nawaratne Mama’s place at 3.30 p.m. His place is 1km before Meemure junction

Fainally at Nawaratne Mama’s place at 3.30 p.m. His place is 1km before Meemure junction

When We arrived the place Nawaratne Mama had gone to Sooriya Arana falls with some visitors .We later knew that they ( Group of 10 ) were staying in the same house which upset our minds a bit. For your information Nawa mama has now few life jackets so you can engage in few water sports at Sooriya arana if you’re interested
Nawa mama’s wife served us with tea . We had a chat with her for a while and she arranged a room for us. Since we didn’t have any plans in the evening we headed towards the Sooriya Arana falls.

To reach Suriya arana falls You have to walk nearly 500m towards Meemure Junction and turn right. Path is clear so just ask the directions from Villagers. It’s nearly 45min walk.

Lakegala and Paddy fields

Lakegala and Paddy fields

I remembered a poem about Lakegala ( Which was given to me by Abeyrathne Bandara Mama )

Epita konata Kalupahanaa keleyaaa…..
Memita konata laggala meemureyaaa………..
Desiya dekak usa athi gomareeyaaa……….
Sondai parakasha laka mee mureyaaa………….

Clear road one can even drive up to some extent

Clear road one can even drive up to some extent

Innocent villager

Innocent villager

More views

More views

Dear Sir , I’ll meet you some day….But after strict training and  proper planning

Dear Sir , I’ll meet you some day….But after strict training and proper planning

Famous place in the Suriya Arana film ( If you remember it’s the Meat Shop )

Famous place in the Suriya Arana film ( If you remember it’s the Meat Shop )

We crossed the stream and chose the jungle path

We crossed the stream and chose the jungle path

Modern Robin Hood

Modern Robin Hood

First Section of Sooriya Arana falls

First Section of Sooriya Arana falls

Second part from Top

Second part from Top

Second Part..Base pool was deep due to recent showers

Second Part..Base pool was deep due to recent showers

Signs of existence of Brainless idiots

Signs of existence of Brainless idiots

Third and highest part

Third and highest part

Fast and furious

Fast and furious

This is the deepest pool . so bathing is not recommended

This is the deepest pool . so bathing is not recommended

We went further downstream for finding a safe bathing place

We went further downstream for finding a safe bathing place

The place where we had a bath

The place where we had a bath

Of course a perfect bath

Of course a perfect bath

Hello

Hello

Returning back

Returning back

Evening rays added extra beauty to the village

Evening rays added extra beauty to the village

Dinky (Nawa’s Dog ) is not friendly with visitors . But I manage to win his heart after offering some chicken bones ( MAS KATU)

Dinky (Nawa’s Dog ) is not friendly with visitors . But I manage to win his heart after offering some chicken bones ( MAS KATU)

Fellow asked Where’s Little SRI

Fellow asked Where’s Little SRI

When we arrived home at 6.00 p.m. Nawa Mama had come there. We had a few chat with them. I suggested that we would visit Ressa Next day and come back and visit Nawaratne Ella last day and walk to Narangamuwa and go home via Pallegama , Dambulla. But he informed that if we visit Ressa we can even reach Narangamuwa on the same day as it’s less than 2hour walk to reach same. So He suggested us to visit Nawaratne ella on the second day and do the Meemure – Ressa – Narangamuwa trail final day. And he predicted of few showers in second day.

( For the information of readers there are two trails to Narangamuwa from Meemure. Left uphill path is via Ressa which is a moderate ascend till Ressa and descend to Narangamuwa. Will take 6- 8 hours to cover this part .other path which is moves to right is comparatively easy takes nearly 3-4 hours for a leisure hike. Nawaratne ella is 5km different trail from the above two and it’ll take 3-4 hours to visit and return)

But Doing only Nawaratne Ella which is nearly 4 hr hike (both up and down ) was little below Par for me and felt heavy workload on 3rd day as we were planning to reach homes on same day. So I told him we’ll adjust the plan depending on weather.

After a tasty dinner we went to sleep. But we were disturbed by our neighboring group by various activities such as singing, shouting etc..But we had to bare it as we can’t expect quite and calm behavior from everybody. We were on a nature trip but it was a family gathering for them. In fact they were going next morning.

In the morning I woke up with fever and I was not in a good mode to hike. Somehow rather Nawarathne mama Introduce us a guide call Kalu Malli for our hike. We were initially planning to do Ressa. Nenda had prepared us breakfast and packed Rotty for Lunch. So me My friend and Kalu Malli( Samaraweera ) started our journey at 6.45 a.m. But we had to just past Meemure paddy field and it was raining. We stopped at Bo tree hopping the rain would settle down but rain was getting heavy . Also I was feeling feverish .So we changed our plans and selected Nawa mama’s plan of visiting Nawaratne Ella .

One thing I can tell you about the instincts of 50+ year man Nawaratne ,is marvelous . There wasn’t any clue about rain I previous day but his predictions were right.

Lakegala Covered in mist

Lakegala Covered in mist

Symbolic Mee Tree

Symbolic Mee Tree

A faithful member joined us in Nawaratne trail  ( Kollai Ballai ).

A faithful member joined us in Nawaratne trail ( Kollai Ballai ).

Weather was not ideal for doing Ressa

Weather was not ideal for doing Ressa

Changing the plans for Nawaratne ella ( Diyakerella Ella )

Changing the plans for Nawaratne ella ( Diyakerella Ella )

A Dewalaya where we stopped for rain

A Dewalaya where we stopped for rain

Morning Sceneries

Morning Sceneries

Weather was not good for hikes but excellent for hunting waterfalls

Weather was not good for hikes but excellent for hunting waterfalls

One of the streams we met , My friend and the Doggie

One of the streams we met , My friend and the Doggie

Small cascade on the way…There is a paddy field of Kalu Malli close by

Small cascade on the way…There is a paddy field of Kalu Malli close by

Art of nature

Art of nature

We had to cross this stream. Perfect bathing spot in a sunny day

We had to cross this stream. Perfect bathing spot in a sunny day

First Glimpse

First Glimpse

Diyakerella / Nawaratne Ella

Diyakerella / Nawaratne Ella

Paninna Pera sitha balanna

Paninna Pera sitha balanna

We Returned back to Resting place around 12.00 noon. I was suffering from fever. After having lunch I requested Nenda to prepare some Link – Paspanguwa. After consuming that I went for a sleep. Although Nitro cave was in mind abandoned it due to my fever. Around 6.00 p.m. Nawa mama came with an irritating news . According to his words “Mahaththaya, 10 denekuge withara set ekak enawa ada mehe nawathina.. Habai Poddak sindu kiyai….Mama e ayata enna kiyannada naththam wenathenaka nawaththannada “ I replied and said not to upset his business because of me and let them in. But Nawarathne understood the situation and went out with a mamoty to prepare a place( land nearby ). He instructed the new group do their activities(singing, dancing etc ) in the prepared place and come home only for sleep. That was a great relief for me. After taking dinner we went to sleep. The group had come to Nawa’s place around 12.00 so it was a goodnight sleep for me

Following day early in the morning we left the place with Kalu malli after packing our baggage and saying good bye to Nawaratne & His wife. Our plan was to visit Narangamuwa Via Ressa and come home via Pallegama-Dambulla-Colombo .

The trail was initially less intense but with the time the ascend got steeper . Land marks were Akul Ella Lakegala Base and Kadathenna.

First cascade we met

First cascade we met

Next Cascade – Akul Ella

Next Cascade – Akul Ella

Obstacles to prevent cattle movements

Obstacles to prevent cattle movements

Different shaped Lakegala Covered in mist

Different shaped Lakegala Covered in mist

Base of Lakegala

Base of Lakegala

A pond with crystal clear water

A pond with crystal clear water

Time for some refreshments

Time for some refreshments

Drinking according to jungle style

Drinking according to jungle style

I Remembered a poem about a Pond in Lakegala..But I’m quite not sure whether is this same pool?

Sathares Pokuna Sadila atha Laka Muduna
Nawoth Diya Pathak Thirihan Wei Kiyana
Rawana Rajuge Raja Wasala Ethana
Pokuna sondai Nemata siri Laka Muduana…..

We rested there a bit and proceeded

Uphill journey was strenuous

Uphill journey was strenuous

This Is calles Kadathenna Border of Kandy – Mathale Districs To reach Narangamuwa It’sacontinous Descend To reach ressa It’s a small discend and a tiring accend

This Is calles Kadathenna Border of Kandy – Mathale Districs
To reach Narangamuwa It’sacontinous Descend
To reach ressa It’s a small discend and a tiring accend

Left downhill is Narangamuwa…Right path is Ressa . We headed to ressa

Left downhill is Narangamuwa…Right path is Ressa . We headed to ressa

Large Rock and small scream as land marks

Large Rock and small scream as land marks

You have to cross this beautiful steam too

You have to cross this beautiful steam too

Below is a good bathing place. We had lunch after returning from Ressa

Below is a good bathing place. We had lunch after returning from Ressa

After the stream it was a difficult continuous ascend. We reached Ressa around 11.30 a.m.

The Opposite Mountain.. Guide named this as Kalupahana

The Opposite Mountain.. Guide named this as Kalupahana

Lakegala seen far

Lakegala seen far

Different shapes

Different shapes

Here is our destination …. Ressa …Which  hides so many ancient stories

Here is our destination …. Ressa …Which hides so many ancient stories

There are some stories related to this place. It’s said a part of Lakegala was splitted by an arrow of Rama ( Rama Sera ) and brocken parts fell down to Uyangamuwa lake

Uyan gamuwa pera sita wew bandanaaa…….
Rama saren ena wedi sara avidanaaa…..
Ravana yudata vedi sara asamanaa………
Il masa andura meemure LAKA Dumbaanaa……( Laka means Lakegala )

We were fascinated by the beauty and my friend was speechless…..we enjoyed the beauty of the place and the surrounding to the fullest
There are some stories related to this place. It’s said a part of Lakegala was splitted by an arrow of Rama ( Rama Sera ) and brocken parts fell down to Uyangamuwa lake

Uyan gamuwa pera sita wew bandanaaa…….
Rama saren ena wedi sara avidanaaa…..
Ravana yudata vedi sara asamanaa………
Il masa andura meemure LAKA Dumbaanaa……( Laka means Lakegala )

We were fascinated by the beauty and my friend was speechless…..we enjoyed the beauty of the place and the surrounding to the fullest
There are some stories related to this place. It’s said a part of Lakegala was splitted by an arrow of Rama ( Rama Sera ) and brocken parts fell down to Uyangamuwa lake

Uyan gamuwa pera sita wew bandanaaa…….
Rama saren ena wedi sara avidanaaa…..
Ravana yudata vedi sara asamanaa………
Il masa andura meemure LAKA Dumbaanaa……( Laka means Lakegala )

We were fascinated by the beauty and my friend was speechless…..we enjoyed the beauty of the place and the surrounding to the fullest

Soora Samaraweera

Soora Samaraweera

Broken part of the mountain

Broken part of the mountain

Mission completed

Mission completed

Looking down

Looking down

Severe drop

Severe drop

Two Yakka Soldiers in Rawana’s Army

Two Yakka Soldiers in Rawana’s Army

View of the surroundings

View of the surroundings

.

.

Narangamuwa side

Narangamuwa side

Paddy fields of Narangamuwa

Paddy fields of Narangamuwa

Surrounding mountains

Surrounding mountains

Leach’s Works

Leach’s Works

After spending nearly an hour we returned back..We had lunch at the stream we passed before. It was a continuous descend till Narangamuwa..Jungle was very calm and beautiful…There were mind blowing streams with suitable camping areas.

Beautiful Jungle

Beautiful Jungle

Arts of natue

Arts of natue

Two rooted tree

Two rooted tree

What a place to relax …………………so calm

What a place to relax …………………so calm

I loved the place

I loved the place

Calm environment

Calm environment

Perfect place for camp if you are not afraid of Jumbos

Perfect place for camp if you are not afraid of Jumbos

Border of Village and forest

Border of Village and forest

Lakegala Seen from Narangamuwa

Lakegala Seen from Narangamuwa

After coming to the first house of the village we had a bath and changed our dresses .From that house we had to walk for another half an hour to teach the village. After coming to a shop we had tea with buns…from there we picked a three wheeler and went to Pallegama. Then we took busses to Dambulla and then to Colombo and reached homes around 12.00 mid night.

Place where we had a bath and exchanged our cloths

Place where we had a bath and exchanged our cloths

Ready for the civilization

Ready for the civilization

Path to the village

Path to the village

Paddy fields

Paddy fields

Thanks for reading

Message From My Friend  “Thanks for reading and we’ll meet with another Knuckles journey “

Message From My Friend
“Thanks for reading and we’ll meet with another Knuckles journey “

Viewing all 939 articles
Browse latest View live