Waterfalls have played a major part in my life in 2014. I’ve been going all over the up country searching for pristine white beauties with many of my friends and the hunting was a runaway success. As the rainy season shifted from South-West to North-East, that had been long overdue, I too decided to shift my focus from hill country to somewhere else. This was not because I’d lost interest in my beloved waterfalls, but just wanted to have a change of scene. However very little did I know even though I wanted a change of scene from hill country, I’d end up yet another hilly place.

Staying at home, doing nothing in my weekend can depress me to no end. It’ll further increase when the darn weekend falls on a weekday. There’s a limit that I can sleep so when I knew I was in for yet another useless two days of weekend, I wanted to scream my head off. Amid all the confusion I browsed Lakdasun looking for somewhere to go and I hit the jackpot after a few tries. Ritigala has always been a mystery to me as much as to anyone else. So the need to go see was like a sleeping lion in me, or rather a semi-active volcano, bubbling inside trying to burst the outer crust.

Having failed to find a mate for this hastily arranged journey, I decided to do another solo stunt. Thinking back, I’ve only done 2 solo stunts before out of all the journeys. So this came as the third and I hope it’ll be the last as travelling alone is such a bore. There’s no one to talk to and make plans, it can also be a pain having to satisfy the curious people who are only interested in getting information from me, not giving the information to me.

So thankfully I got a very useful contact number from Ashan and called Dayarathna (Daya for his close friends) who was very cheerful and helpful. However, he said that the rains have started their sing-song and for me to be ready. Well, what on earth was there to be ready other than either call the whole thing off or go get soaked to the bones? I went home on the 18^th evening, still undecided whether to go ahead or not. Around 8pm, I was beginning to sweat profusely and had begun to feel feverish too. These symptoms had only one cure, to cut lose and go somewhere.

Day 01

Having called Daya, I got ready to go and slept fitfully till 4am. Getting up, I saw plenty of mist hanging around in the air and on tree tops. I washed my face quickly to make sure that I wasn’t dreaming or I wasn’t in Nuwara Eliya. This was the sign of the Winter had arrived and the chill sent shivers down my spine. I got ready and reached the Fort Station around 5.15am, way too early for the 6.05am train. It was the Udaya Devi Train that runs to Batticaloa. Even though, Podi Menike has been my favorite train to date, not so after the name used on those S-12 Chinese power sets, Udaya Devi took a very good impression on me immediately. Powered by M8 engine, a clone of former Canadian Engine, built in India she had those newly acquired blue and white stripped wagons giving it a matching color combination of the dark blue engine.

During my wait amid less crowded Fort Station unlike on weekends, there was the newly introduced AC Express train to Jaffna that leaves Fort at 5.50am. Finally Udaya Devi reached the number 4 platform in her majestic style and waited for her passengers to get on board. The 2^nd class was not at all crowded giving a wider array of seats. It actually made most people go haywire as they simply couldn’t make up their minds about where to sit. They kept hopping from one to the other and then realizing the former was better than the current one, and then going and sitting somewhere else.

It was so fun to watch this drama unfolding and the sun had a tough time penetrating the thick layer of clouds. The seats however were too straight for my liking; it makes you sit upright right throughout the journey with no option to angle it back even slightly. This is the only thing I didn’t like about the train and it was a big mistake by the designers. At the chime of 6.05am, she pulled out of the station sending a jolt through my bones.

Away she went passing the smoky and stinking Colombo suburbs, adding more poisonous black smoke to already over smoked city sky. Reaching the wetlands and swamps in around Ragama and then towards Gampaha in the wee hours was a treat for the eye and the mind. The mist had come in full force the previous night covering the lush green marshlands and paddy fields with her white cloth. I felt so cold when the train went cutting through the morning mist that had hung across the railway line. This was a journey to treasure. The trees stood in the distance amid paddy fields and wetlands covered in mist giving it a ghostly impression. Something you usually experience in Nuwara Eliya, the pine trees covered in mist. If it wasn’t for the paddy field and stretches of open marshy lands, one could’ve easily mistaken the surrounding to be Nuwara Eliya.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Awkana Buddha Statue
2. Kala Wewa
3. Vijithapura RMV
4. Ritigala Archaeological Remains and Una Kanda
5. Andiyakanda Hermitage

The train journey was nice and smooth and I had the carriage pretty much for myself. What irritated me somewhat was Udaya Devi retouching her make up at Maho Junction. She kept looking at herself this way and that way still not satisfied, finally when she managed to make up her mind about her look, we were late by more than half hour. My plans nearly were shot to hell. From Maho, it’s the thick forest and isolated villages the train runs through. It’s very sad to know this is the most evil track for elephants in SL. Hundreds of jumbos have sacrificed their lives for the Iron Monster between Maho and Batticaloa despite various unsuccessful measures taken by our authorities.

The time table from 5.40am (Click image to enlarge)

@ Maho

Having a bath

Changing the sides

Overseeing the operation

The rainy clouds in the distance

Curious

Awkana Buddha Statue

Finally, after 4.5 hrs of travelling, I was on the platform at Aukana looking left and right feeling completely lost. I reached the main road (Galnewa-Kekirawa) and found a tuk-tuk and headed towards the statue while the laden skies decided to unburden themselves. It was pouring with rain by the time I reached the temple and had no umbrella to go up to the statue. Thankfully, Niroshan, the tuk-tuk driver had a jacket which he lent me. Using that I managed to reach the temple and keeping my cap as a cover for my camera (thanking my wisdom for sticking with point-n-shoot not with mortar-sized SLR), went towards this beautifully carved Buddha Statue.

I was stopped in my tracks, the rain was pouring over my exposed head, the cap was getting soaked leaking water onto the camera but I was frozen at the sight of this majestic creation. The police officer and another fella kept firing questions at me and they all fell on deaf ears as I was too busy admiring this gigantic and sensational rocky statue. This was a master piece created by the best artists at that time. Every nook and corner with carved with such precision and smoothness, I felt awed by simply looking up the serene looking Buddha.

It’s said and believed a drop of rainwater, detaching itself from the tip of the nose of the statue, would drop in perpendicular into the small depression (providing there’s no wind) carved between the big toes of the statue. It shows the sheer skill and accuracy in those days. I felt proud of our ancestors but sadly can’t say the same thing now. When the rain was too much for me to stay closer, I borrowed an umbrella from one of the tourists and went and took some more pics.

They’re planning to build a roof covering the statue in order to protect it from winds, rain and piercing sun. Whether this will pay dividends is yet to be seen. Having worshipped and said my prayers I left donating a small amount to the foundation and got back in the tuk-tuk in search of Vijithapura RMV.

Good bye Udaya Devi

Here I am

Majestic looking Buddha

Closer

The Stupa near the statue

The plaque symbolizing the visit of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip with then President J. R. Jayawardena back in 1981

Simply unbelievable craftsmanship

Side view

Raining very hard

Can’t believe this is done out of rock

Upper part

And the lower, would be a sight to see bathed in flood lights

Very old

Kala Wewa and Vijithapura RMV

The sky was heavily pregnant with water and looked at me gloomily. I stopped on the bund of this mighty creature pondering of King Dathusena who had built many tanks and canals. Unfortunately, his fate was sealed at the Kala Wewa itself when his son, gone insane killed him by burying him alive on the bund of this tank.

My next stop was Vijithapura RMV, a temple believed to have been built by King Dutugemunu after defeating Elara. Vijithapura is supposed to be the great battlefield where King Dutugemunu re-united the country defeating South Indian invaders. The rains had eased by the time I got off the tuk-tuk and went in, having paid Rs. 400/- for Niroshan for his troubles. The Stupa is something I hadn’t seen anywhere before with a uniquely design structure. I’ll let the pics do the explaining. There were many remains of ancient civilizations.

Out of all the historical remains, the “Kadu Ge Gala” (The rock where the swords were sharpened) is the main highlight. It’s believed this was used to sharpen the swords by King Dutugemunu and his soldiers. The rock itself is showing so much erosion in the middle proving it was very heavily used. Bidding farewell to this historic place I got into a bus and reached Kekirawa in the middle of yet another heavy shower.

Kala Wewa

Water levels increasing

One of the many sluice gates for canals

Isolated

At the temple

Majestic

With the thousands of years old stone pillars

One of the beautiful Stupa’s I’ve seen

The top of it

Famous Rock where the swords were sharpened

Showing heavy use, that sword is not a real one

You know what these are

Some more

Another

The main image house but not open at the time, thanks to treasure hunters

The steps to the Stupa

On the left

And the right

The full package

Towards the top, this looks like a king worshipping but the head is broken

Seeking some warmth

Remains

Foundation of a former complex

Another

Mmm, mouth watering

Scattered across

Fully stone

The official logo of the Department of Irrigation nowadays

Many more across the road too

Keeriyagaswewa, Ritigala

Daya was waiting for at Kekirawa and after a hasty lunch, we wanted to the go see some more archaeological remains in a place called Divulwewa but the intermittent showers made the decision for us. Having abandoned our plans, we reached his house in Keeriyagaswewa, right in front of Ritigala Visitor Centre and settled for the night.

The jumbos usually roam around the area at will but I wasn’t lucky enough to see any. However I took the opportunity to roam about the Ritigala Visitor Centre and take some pics. Then it was time to call it a day and go to sleep. So after a wash and a heavy dinner I was fast asleep the moment my head hit the pillow. It was a very good night with no troubles from jumbos and I slept without a dream till 6am.

Note: Before I get up, just wanna keep you guys in the loop about another blunder by the officials. They had started a project very much similar to Udawalawa Ath Athuru Sewana called “Ritigala Ath Athuru Sewana” and was open to the public. Having spent millions of public money for this, now they’d simply abandoned the whole thing and giving away the remaining baby elephants to places even the wildlife officials have no clue.

So this is yet another blunder by the officials and I guess mainly the politicians. I also received some inside information from someone who likes to remain anonymous that the number of baby elephants that were stolen in the recent past is well over 100. This is very reliable information coming directly from the people who know it for a fact. Just imagine the plight of those poor fellows having no freedom and separated from the warmth of their mothers and care of the families.

Instead they are kept as a symbol of status by those who can pay large sums in either bribes or illegally to those corrupt officials and politicians. Unfortunately many tourists, especially the foreigners, get misled by these boards which are located at Kekirawa Town, Galapitagala Turn off and near the premises too. Someone has written on the board close to the premises with some paint “Wasa Atha” or “Closed” trying in vain to keep the tourists informed about it not functioning anymore.

Buildings of visitor center

The range

Kodi Gala

Rest of the range

Only the boards

Causeway aka Shoe Bridge

Against the dark sky

Huge mushroom

The full package

The old board

Built in 2008

Open to the public

Either side of the entrance

The other

The pathway

Higher up

The summit over the roof

Do this please

Interior

Towards the cafeteria

The prison is around the corner

A big complex

Like walking through a jungle. Reminds of a theme park in Malaysia or Singapore?

The icing in the distant

Can’t get enough of it

Colorful fella

Water dripping off

Some more

Day 02

Nothing beats a good night’s sleep which was exactly I had last night making me feel nice and fresh in the morning. The wildlife kept making various kinda noises throughout adding flavor to the music industry. I had big plans for the day and hurriedly got dressed and was about by 6.30am while the sun was fighting a fierce battle with the clouds. The clouds were not in the mood to give in and instead gathered so thickly covering the tip of Ritigala as if icing on a cake.

With Daya, I went to see the Keeriyagaswewa Tank in the hope of seeing a jumbo but the Nuwara Eliya-esque climate kept them hidden deep in the jungle, probably still snoring loudly. Unfortunately, the renovated tank in 2008, now in a very bad shape as there hasn’t been any maintenance. We saw some foot marks of the elephants and had to be content with that. The Rigitala Range with 7 peaks was covered in mist and were looking absolutely breath-taking in the morning.

It was time to have an early breakfast and Daya got one of his cuisine brothers, Thissa to accompany me to Ritigala. Thissa is a very good fellow with loads of knowledge about Ritigala and its historical value. He claims that he’s visited Ritigala more than 100 times covering most of its area. After talking to him, I came to believe that he knows what he was talking about. So time to go see the Majestic and Tranquil Kingdom of Ritigala.

Daya and Son

Posing shyly

The path towards the Archaeological Site

Keeriyagaswewa Tank

The right plank of mighty Ritigala

One of the peaks

This is the left plank

Very hard to get a clear pic…

Busy early morning despite being so old

Pinkies up in the morning too

Some yellows too

Not edible, unfortunately

Daya’s son keeping an eye out

The last in the herd

He could drive this as good as any

Ritigala Archaeological Remains and Una Kanda

Facts on Ritigala in Pics:

Do check the information given at the Visitor Centre that I took on my lenses below. It helps to check the pics rather and reading them I guess. Then let’s go to the fairy tale bit.

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There’s 2km of muddy road till the archaeological site of Ritigala from the Visitor Centre. This has many pot holes and extremely slippery even after a slight drizzle. Low clearance vehicle such as a car will have a rough journey, so better to avoid going in one. Instead, you can walk this 2km along a nice and shady road or use your jeep, van or 4X4. If none of them suits you, hire Daya’s tuk-tuk from the Visitor Centre which I did.

The sky looked threatening and very dark; the picture became even gloomier inside the forest-covered road. We reached the archaeological site around 8am and obtained the permission to go see them from the officer on site. I felt it was a pity they didn’t charge anything to see them as anything given for free has very little value. Hope they will start charging to enter the site in future.

As soon as we entered the site, there were remains of what looked like a big tank and Thissa duly informed me that it is called “Panda Wewa”. There were these huge rocky slabs (must be about H x W x D = 4’ x 1’ x 0.5’) used as the outer wall making it a set of steps that lead to the tank gradually. I was immediately fascinated by the sheer ingenuity of this structure. These rocky slabs were placed so close to each other and they must’ve used some kinda very special cement mixture to keep them in place and retain the water without any leaks. I even heard that those days, they used bee-honey as well in those special cement mixtures.

Passing this, we kept going uphill along the well-paved 10-12ft wide rocky path. Similar kind of rocky slabs used to border the path wile even wider ones were used along the path placing them closer to each other making a nice path with steps where necessary and resting places too. I was lost for words and was staring at these wonderful creations as if they were talking to me. I was hypnotized by the ingenuity and creativity of our ancestors. Everywhere I looked, there was abundant evidence to the mastery of our former architectural skills.

Thissa gave a running commentary over the ruins telling me of their significance. I was a kid once again listening to a very interesting history lesson from his teacher. One such extraordinarily place was the remains of the ancient hospital. There were many rocky mills, where they used to grind medicine. The rocks looked heavily used over years of grinding and blending many different medicinal leaves, flowers and barks. There were a couple of medicinal boats in which the patients were submerged in medicinal liquids. To the center of the complex there was the place where the seriously injured were treated. A rocky bed was laid with a fascinating drainage system to remove the urine and bowels.

The whole mountain range was self-sufficient in every way. There were medicinal gardens, fruit gardens and tanks along with watch towers and their own hospital. This was a very modern living system created some thousands of years ago in this country that was beyond the wildest dreams of many others at the time.

At the archaeological remains

Some of them kept in front

Mud-walled Office

Here we go

Panda Tank

See how neatly it’s done

Path

Very big

Scattered all around

Shady path but no sun to disturb us

Circling around these obstacles

Going up

Beginning of the mile long rocky stairway

Climbing all the while

Resting places

Just can’t get enough of these

Rounding paths

Goes on

A huge complex

Must’ve been a grand construction in the past

The ancient hospital

Remains

Where they blended the medicine

Medicinal boats

Where the severely injured was treated

Drains

Sandy path

Many more to see

To another level

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Amid the trees

Never ending

Almost 150-200m long this direct stretch

Not explored properly yet

Gigantic trees

To the watch tower

Closer

Here it is

Going up

The solidly built walls

View not clear due to gloominess

This is believed to be the pillow used by the guards to rest. Just imagine having to rest on a rocky pillow this big, the guard must’ve been so big

From the watch tower

Much much more

Higher ground

More resting places

Another of buildings

Looks very well planned

Must be the most artistic commode

Framed

This is a meditating chamber

Time to go see the Bamboo Mountain

Passing all these we went further up. Our target was to reach one of the seven summits of Ritigala called Una Kanda. Others are Andiya Kanda, Awshadha Kanda, Amarapathi Kanda, Na Ulpath Kanda, Palathuru Kanda and Kodi Kanda. Out of these, Kodi Kanda aka Kodi Gala is the highest summit point with a height of 766m.

The forest was so dense and there was no sunlight, though there was very little of it, coming through the thick tree cover. Led by Thissa we started the ascent amid a moderate trail uphill. There were a few snakes that went across the path at intervals sending fear through the ears. However, Thissa was unfazed by any of that and kept climbing. It was tough going and the humidity was unbearable despite it being so cold the previous night and early morning.

Closer to the viewing points, the going became a bit treacherous as the terrain was soaked in rain and all the rocks were as slippery as an eel’s back. Finally, with a lot of going around and hanging dearly for tree branches, we were at the viewing point but the dark umbrella overhead didn’t help the visibility at all. The Kodi Gala, highest point of Ritigala, rather the whole of North Central and Northern Province combined, was to our right covered by the mist. While thick grey clouds were going overhead towards Minneriya, Dambulla and Matale.

The weather held all the time but now the rain was imminent, so without wasting any more time, having done a very quick documentary we started our descent while the rain started hammering the tree cover above us. I panicked big time but thankfully, the rain gods took pity on us as they sent it farther away after a short burst. We made to the office where Daya was waiting patiently for us. It was time to go see the last of the tour highlights, Andiyakanda Hermitage.

Some more mammoth trees

Mushy mushrooms

Artistic

Just look at the path

Now the thick forest

Goes up around these

Colorful

Wasps’ nest

Full of snakes too

Twisting

Towards Habarana, Minneriya and Pollonnaruwa

Kodi Kanda covered in mist

Thissa giving a running commentary

Where we went in the middle

Zoomed

Got back

Daya must be waiting

Majestic and Mysterious Ritigala

Andiyakanda Hermitage

This is located about 2km from the Ritigala Visitor Centre along Keeriyagaswewa-Galapitagala Road. You need to take a similar road to the Archaeological Site for about another 2km which is also not in good condition for a car. The road is among the forest and Daya kept a close watch for jumbos. I was yearning for them to appear but none of them did for my disappointment. Daya’s little son too came with us.

We could see the Andiyakanda in the middle of the mountain range. According to folklore, one old person had been told about a treasure at Andiyakanda and was specifically asked to take only a small amount. However the sheer greediness of the human nature took the better of him and he went inside the cave on the Andiyakanda for more and more treasure. Sounds like Ali Baba and 40 Thieves, doesn’t it? As a punishment for his greediness, once he was inside the cave, one huge rock had fallen barring the entrance trapping him inside.

Listening to all these fairy tales, we reached the hermitage which was so calm and quiet save for the wind rustling the leaves, birds, mainly peacocks, making different tunes and our feet crunching on the gravel. The monks were having their meals and without disturbing them, we went for a look see. There were many caves with drip ledges. The outer walls have now been built using bricks and cement making them protect from insects and other animals for the monks.

After a brief tour, we got back to the alms hall where the monks were doing the post-meal rituals. There was a tiny deer named “Bindu”. It had been wounded on the thigh and now receiving treatments from these monks. The chief monk was very kind and understandably even Bindu felt it as it kept running towards him whenever a stranger or some fearful noise was heard. After a short stay, we returned to the tuk-tuk and were on our way to the Galapitagala Junction. I then bid farewell to my hosts and got into a bus to Habarana from where I took a very fast bus to Colombo.

Our last destination

Finally the mist drifted off. Can see some Elephant poo on the road

Here’s the Andiya Kanda

Entering the Monastery

Do read this. (Click image to enlarge)

Water beginning to find new paths

Through the dense forest

The main alms hall

Going uphill

The Bo Tree is around the corner

Here it is

One of the modified caves. Note the drip-ledges

A close up of a drip-ledge

Choco and Creamy Mushroom

Backwards

Another similar cave

It’s believed the whole of Ritigala housed some 500+ Arhath Bhikkus during Aritta Thero’s era

Another drip-ledge but very special

Coz of these writings

Few more

Here’s Bindu

Can’t stand properly due to the injury

Seeking protection under the Saffron Robe

Compassion

Knows no harm will come to him

Here’s the wound being treated by the monks

Time to go

The stupidity of the officials

Check the couple of Panos I took:

Well, folks, that’s the fairy tale of this unbelievably beautiful and tranquil place. You’re bound to be awed by its history and the majestic craftsmanship of our ancestors.

Do pay a visit if you already haven’t done so. This is Sri signing off for now and hoping to see you once again with another journey…

Until then, be safe and keep travelling.

Adiós!

Sri…

The staircase of Yapahuwa is one of the most recognizable and reproduced icons of our cultural heritage. However, the actual ruins themselves are visited by only a small percentage of people visiting the cultural triangle. Sharing many similarities with the more famous Sigiriya, the mystique of Yapahuwa is enhanced by its turbulent past, majestic ruins, impressive fortifications and the vivid descriptions left by the travellers of antiquity who visited its kingdom. Its easy accessibility using public transport should make this an ideal location for a one day excursion for photography enthusiasts like me or those who are planning an educational, enjoyable and affordable day out for the whole family. Perhaps the greatest mystery in Yapahuwa is why so few Sri Lankans have actually been there to experience its splendors first hand…

I had a good night’s rest and left home only at 6.30 am to catch the 7.15 am Jaffna bound express from Fort. I got off from the Maho junction by 10.15 am and got to a three wheeler which took me the last 4km to the temple entrance. The three wheel driver name was Sampath (Mobile: 0723850800) and he knew about many archeologically interesting places in the vicinity of Yapahuwa

Passing a recently built arch I entered the archeology site. Today visitors enter the temple through the eastern gate of the ancient ramparts. Once entering the inner city I was greeted by many crumbling remnants of buildings scattered in the temple premises. The main attraction of Yapahuwa is undeniably in its majestic staircase. This magnificent structure climbs the lower southern slopes of the rock to a natural terrace where the Temple of the Tooth once stood.

Standing at the foot of the staircase and gazing up at the rock rising almost vertically for 90 meters above the ground…. I could not but wonder why an ancient kingdom was located here. The answer to this must be sought, deep within the history of our island.

The chronicle Mahawamsa records that a military leader named “Subha” using the Yapahuwa as his stronghold successfully repulsed Magha’s (1215-1236 AD) forces from marching southwards. This would have been no small feat as Magha of Kalinga is said to have led an invasion force of 24,000 soldiers. What was thereafter called ‘Subha pabbata’, “Subhavala” and “Subhagiripura” in honor of this victory was later known as “yaha pabbatha” and currently as “Yapahuwa”. However the reference to Yapahuwa as “Sundara Giri Pavuvva” in the Bodhivamsa in third century B.C during the reign of King Devanampiyatissa provides clear evidence of the locations ancient Buddhist origins.

Yapahuwa reached prominence as the 4th kingdom of Sri Lanka after the chaotic decline of the Damadeniya kingdom. Vijayabahu IV (1271-1272), the last king in Damabadeniya was assassinated by a general name Mitta who was himself killed by the Rajput soldiers within the palace. Thereafter the late Vijayabahu IV younger brother who had fled to Yapahuwa for hiding was crowned as Buwanaikabahu I (1272-1283 AD) in Dambadeniya with the help of the same Rajput soldiers. The king’s initial years of rule from Dambadeniya was troubled by rebellions and invasions from Vanni and North. After overcoming his opponents Buwanaikabahu I moved the royal seat to Yapahuwa for security reasons, thus heralding its golden age.

Buwanaikabahu I conveyed the tooth relic from Dambadeniya to Yapahuwa and gave his patronage to the Sangha, thus succeeding in making his rule was acceptable to the people. The names of surrounding villages such as Daladagama (the village where the tooth relic was kept for a short while during its journey from Dambadeniya to Yapahuwa), Dunupathagama (the village where the kings archers resided), Ullalapola (originally “Ula lana pola”: the place where the offenders were punished) and Makaduwawa (originally “Malkaduwawa”: the village where flowers were supplied to the shrine) provides further indication that Yapahuwa became a well-established kingdom within a short space of time. It is recorded the king sent an embassy to the Sultan of Cairo in April 1283, showing his keen interest in international trade. The influence of which is still visible in the majestic staircase even today s later discussed.

Unfortunately, Yapahuwa was only a royal capital for a short time as it was abandoned after the invading Pandyans of southern India seized the Sacred Tooth Relic. This happened soon after Bhuvanekabahu’s death in 1284. It is said that Parakramabahu-the third, his successor, in 1288 went to the Pandyan court in India and successfully negotiated the return of the Sacred Tooth Relic. It was brought eventually to Polonnaruwa after a brief stint in Kurunegala. Thus the 12 year span of the Yapahuwa kingdom makes it the shortest surviving seat of rule in our history.

Intriguingly, there is no recorded mention of Yapahuwa beyond the 13th Century in our historical sources. After the Fortress was abandoned monks converted it into a monastery which still continues to this date. The caves still containing “Kataram” or drip ledges found as one climbs closer to the top of the Yapahuwa rock and the Kandy era cave temple at the foot of the rock bears evidence to its close affiliation with the Maha Sangha after the 13th century. The first archaeological excavation at Yapahuwa was done by H. C. P. Bell, Sri Lanka’s first archaeological commissioner who held the post from 1810 to 1811. The excavations still continue today and the local residents believe there are many more ruins to be uncovered in the vicinity.

Some of the defense fortifications which played a pivotal role in Yapahuwa being selected as a kingdom are still visible today. The remains of two wall fortifications and the moat extend from west end of the Southern part of the rock and are connected to the other side of the rock resembling a horse shoe. The inner rampart is built on a higher elevation than its outer counterpart. The homes of the ordinary people are speculated to have been between the outer and inner walls while king’s palace, administrative buildings and of course the Temple of the Tooth were within the inner wall. Though smaller in scale these bear many similarities with the fortifications found in Sigiriya. These remain as stark reminders that many ancient seats of rule like Sigiriya, Dambadenya (Maligagala), Yapahuwa and Kurunegala (Ethugala) were selected primarily as defensive locations. A fascinating find was made just outside the inner moat by the Archeological Department when they excavated a stock of rounded stones. These round stones are believed to have been used as missiles.

In today’s era of “shock and awe” tactics of warfare, one cannot but wonder whether these simple ramparts, ditches and moats could really have kept an invading force at bay. However, it is in no uncertain terms that the Chinese military theorist Sun Tzu cautions against attacking walled fortifications in ancient warfare

Thus the highest form of generalship is to balk the enemy’s plans; the next best is to prevent the junction of the enemy’s forces; the next in order is to attack the enemy’s army in the field; and the worst policy of all is to besiege walled cities. The rule is, not to besiege walled cities if it can possibly be avoided……You can be sure of succeeding in your attacks if you only attack places which are undefended. You can ensure the safety of your defense if you only hold positions that cannot be attacked

Source: www.gutenberg.org

The famous staircase is constructed in three tiers where a flight of steps lead to a broad landing to be followed by another staircase. The first tier is stark in design and provides an easy climb

A tantalizing view of the entrance to the Dalda Maligawa nearing the top of the stairway

The landing at the top of the first flight of stairs provided me a tantalizing glimpse of the entrance to the Dalda Maligawa and the fine examples of sculpture flanking the stairway.

An alternate footpath to climb to the temple by avoiding the steep stairs

After reaching the first landing, I decided to climb using the alternate path seen to the left hand side of the staircase. This provides a relatively easy climb for someone like me carrying a heavy camera backpack and a tripod. The top of this footpath is connected to the terrace where the temple of the tooth was located.

Those who opt to climb the last stage of the staircase will be faced with a difficult climb. Historians say that the steepness of the stairway and the narrowness of the steps were intended to protect the most treasured item in the king’s possession…the sacred tooth relic. Even with the aid of the recently installed steel railing, these steps can neither be ascended nor descended hastily. Those who have climbed the “Maliga-gala” where the royal abode of Dambadeniya was located would also be familiar with parts of a staircase narrowly constructed with similar intentions.  When climbing down these steep stairs one cannot turn ones back to the shrine on top. Hence, the theory that the stairway was designed to avoid the disrespect of turning ones back to the sacred tooth relic. The final part of the stairway leading to the temple of the tooth relic is richly decorated, well befitting a shrine of its importance.

A very coy smile indeed…

At the base of the final climb I was greeted with two graceful female “doratu palika” sculptures bearing a pot of plenty. Some experts identify these as goddesses Ganga and Yamuna bearing evidence to the Dravidian influence in the architecture in Yapahuwa.

A mythical lion or a feng-shui dragon?

The lions of Yapahuwa are arguably amongst the most iconic images of our past. It is thought that these wide eyed lions with snarling jaws were placed to ward off unwelcome visitors. The image of this lion printed in the countries 10 Rupee currency note, also bears an uncanny resemblance to the Chinese dragons on sale in the newly opened feng-shui shops in the city. The discovery of Chinese porcelain and pottery along with more than a thousand Chinese coins in Yapahuwa provides evidence of trade along the Silk Road. It also indicates that the similarities between the Yapahuwa lion and the Chinese dragon are not coincidental.

Another fascinating proof of links between Yapahuwa and China was recorded by Marco Polo, in his delightful travel log. The venetian traveller describes how the Great Khan of China sent ambassadors to procure from “Seilan” the Tooth, Hair and Bowl Relics and how the Sri Lankan king shrewdly appeased the mighty grandson of Genghis Khan by dispatching two fake teeth. The year of the expedition in 1284 indicate this king to be Buwanaikabahu I of Yapahuwa.

Now it befell that the Great Khan heard how on that mountain there was the sepulcher of our first father Adam, and that some of his hair and of his teeth, and the dish from which he used to eat, were still preserved there. So he thought he would get hold of them somehow or another, and dispatched a great embassy for the purpose, in the year of Christ, 1284. The ambassadors, with a great company, travelled on by sea and by land until they arrived at the island of Seilan, and presented themselves before the king. And they were so urgent with him that they succeeded in getting two of the grinder teeth, which were passing great and thick; and they also got some of the hair, and the dish from which that personage used to eat, which is of very beautiful green porphyry. And when the Great Khan’s ambassadors had attained the object for which they had come they were greatly rejoiced, and returned to their lord. And when they drew near to the great city of Cambaluc, where the Great Khan was staying, they sent him word that they had brought back that for which he had sent them. On learning this the Great Khan was passing glad, and ordered all the ecclesiastics and others to go forth to meet these relics, which he was led to believe were those of Adam.

(Source: www.gutenberg.org)

Gaja Simha standing vigorously with one fore-leg raised and the tail curved up

The balustrade behind the two lions is carved with a majestic gaja simha (a mythical beast with a lions body fused with an elephant head).

To the tune of musical instruments still used today…

Parallel to the balustrade running around the building is a frieze of energetic dancers and musicians. These fading carvings are believed to represent the great yearly procession of the Sacred Tooth Relic.

Unlike Sigiriya, where the palace was constructed at the summit, the Yapahuwa palace was built on a lower level at the top of the staircase. An impressive stone door way, harmoniously flanked by big walls and two exquisitely carved windows greets visitors at the top of the staircase. The joining of stone slabs to make the arch of the doorway and the intricate lion carvings found in the pillars on either side amply demonstrates the mastery of stonework by our ancestors. The main pillars of the porch are composite pillars; each comprises three pillars.  At the back of the porch are two more additional pillars. Passing the doorway, one enters the shrine where the tooth relic was venerated. Today only its foundations are to be seen as a result of the destruction caused by the Dravidian invaders and the later plundering by the Portuguese.

And the view can only be described as serene and calming

There are two bare stone windows on either side of the doorway. These were once decorated with profusely carved stone slabs with holes through which rays of soft light filtered in to the hall. Called the ‘Sivumenduru Kavuluwa’ (perforated palace window); these were adorned with delicate carvings of bacchanalian figures, women, swans and animals. Today, visitors can admire one of the windows in the nearby Yapahuwa museum whilst the other is preserved in the national museum in Colombo. These windows are a highly praised piece of work, accepted as unique and not found anywhere else in the country. The islands first archeological commissioner, H.C. P. Bell acclaimed them as the gem of Yapahuwa sculpture.

Intricate carvings of Kibihi Muhuna and Gaja Lakshimi decorations in the arch of the window

The makara-thorana decorated with a kibihi-muna (sneezy faced dragon with a lion face) over the original positions of the windows is beautifully carved. Placed under each thorana is the figure of Gaja-Lakshmi, seated cross-legged and holding a lotus in each hand. Two elephants on either side bathe her with the pots they hold in their trunks. The Gaja Lakshmi carving reminded me of the similar carving seen in the Galpotha next to the Sathmahal Prasadaya in Polonnaruwa.

Wabi-Sabi …….just three simple realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect.

The staircase is not the only place in Yapahuwa where the lion motif is used as decoration. Beautiful lion carvings stand guard at the base of pillars on either side of the temple entrance. The manner in which their decay and aging seems to somehow add to the aesthetic value of these sculptures brings to mind the Japanese concept of “wabi-sabi”. Starkly contrasts with the western notion of beauty as symmetric perfection, “wabi-sabi” nurtures all that is authentic by acknowledging three simple realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect…

As the centuries pass by…

In the twilight as the sun goes down the horizon…

A couple of attractions not covered in the report, but possible to be explored within the same day to see are as follows

• The remnants of a secret escape tunnel. This is below the paws of the lion to your right hand side as you ascend the stairs. To enter this, one must very carefully step-down from the right side ledge next to the lion and search for the opening.
• Yapahuwa museum located in the public car park at the bottom
• The Kandy era cave paintings in the temple at the bottom of the rock which has been constructed with the approval of King Rajasingha of Kandy in the 18th Century. You must ask the head priest for permission as it is normally kept closed
• Continue climbing to the top of the rock and see a Stupa and pond. The view is also more scenic from the top albeit a few telecommunication towers rising above the tree line.

I took one last look at the lions and promised to come back again before slowly walking down the footpath. The owner of the shop right opposite the road to the temple entrance arranged a three-wheeler for me to go to Daladagama junction. From there I took two more buses to Kurunegala and Colombo respectively. Though it was a long journey seats were readily available and the ride was not bumpy due to the well carpeted roads.

For the briefest moment in the island’s long history, Yapahuwa served as the capital of Sri Lanka. In just twelve short years between the chaotic decline of the Damabadeniya kingdom and the final tragic invasion and carrying away of the tooth relic to India by the Pandyan invaders, our ancestors were able to create a fully-fledged kingdom with trade and diplomatic links as far away as China and Cairo. Today it lies in a seldom visited corner of the cultural triangle almost forgotten by the descendants of its mighty founders. Ravaged by time and forces of history …the lonely ruins of Yapahuwa, though not many, are still cause for fascination.  The  elaborate  stone work, the  fusion of  art and architecture, of gods, goddesses, animals, mythical creatures, dancers and musicians, columns and structures, make it a  simply delightful  sight for the lucky few who visit to experience it first-hand. Lulled by its secluded charm, one can truly lose oneself in meandering fantasies of our glorious past. Gazing up at its majestic staircase you too may conclude as the western scholar Rowland Raven-Hart writing in Ceylon: History in Stone (1964) – “that it is like nothing else in Ceylon; nowhere is there such a riot of sculpture with such revelry of stone frozen movement.”

The travelling frenzy started nice and proper when a gang of us (Tony, Hari, Dhana, Thilini, Harsha, Wumi, Prince and Me) got together and went to Bathalegala in Mar, 2013. Since then, for the last 20 months, it’s been travelling from one end to the other with scarcely a few breaks. The Lakdasun Gathering in Feb, 2014 triggered this as we met so many other like-minded travelers. We just had yet another on the 23 Nov at Muthurajawela doing something worthwhile for the nature cleaning up the polythene and plastic filled Hamilton Canal. Hopefully this too will form new friendships that will lead to more travelling and greater causes.

Something very similar happened to me as well in this gathering as I met one of the like-minded waterfall-crazy fellow (Shareez), who’s been in touch with me but never bumped into each other before. Fortunately for us, his annual leave coincided nicely with the gathering and we agreed to look each other up and probably do some waterfall hunting as the rains were falling freely. On a different note, it’s a real pity (as Atha keeps saying) that we ain’t got any waterfall closer to the heart of Colombo as the rainfall Colombo receives would create some beautiful and overflowing waterfalls.

Well, I’ll leave the details of the gathering for the time being as many of you must’ve heard what went on including all the mud-slinging campaigns too. It was really good to get together and share all the expertise, fun moments and much more with the fellow hikers. It was good to see Shareez and we planned to go see the waterfalls in Walapane including the evading Kurundu Oya Falls. I’d failed both of my previous attempts at visiting this 2^nd highest beauty but decided I was in with a good chance this time.

However, little did I know that I’m still not qualified to go see this girl as all our plans were shattered like a fallen egg on concrete? First of all, Tony Mama who was keen to get together with us damaged his finger trying to do I don’t know what and missed out at the eleventh hour. Then Sheham had other plans preventing us leaving our usual time, early in the morning.

Having called each other trying to work out something for the whole day Tue, 25 Nov I was ready to quit. However Shareez kept on and finally we decided to change plans and visit one of the beauties at Aranayake, Asupini Ella and providing we have enough time to go see some others as well. Fittingly, I rather we, had missed visiting Asupini Ella during our Bathalegala Journey and never got the chance to go see her after. So I jumped in at the opportunity and finally we decided to leave late and cover as much as we could within the short time available.

So on the 26 Nov, Sheham picked me around 7.30am and we struggled for nearly 2 hours zig-zagging through the over-crowded Colombo s

ts to reach Peliyagoda where Shareez was waiting for a good one hour or so. I was going crazy but there was nothing either Sheham or I could do. Finally we caught up with Shareez at Peliyagoda around 9.15am and went on towards our target.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Asupini Ella, Horawela.
2. Selawa Cave Temple, Aranayake.

Asupini Ella

Having driven along the ever-so-busy Kandy Road we reached Mawanella and turned towards Aranayake which is another 15km away. The whole sky looked grim and not a sign of sun appeared through that cloud cover. The whole day remained the same constantly dripping water through the holes in those clouds making life hell for us but enjoyable for the damning leeches.

We reached Aranayake and then took the road towards Horawela which goes direct without crossing the bridge on the left. This road goes passing Horawela and you’ll reach Naththakanda, about 4km from Aranayake. Just bear in mind this road is good for about 2-3km and afterwards it’s in very bad condition despite having occasional concrete patches at intervals.  So if you’re in a car or a low clearance vehicle, then you’re dead meat. Ideally stop the vehicle as close as you can get then either walk or take a tuk-tuk. I’ve given some good contacts at notes.

The unexpected occurred as we reached this terrible bit (we had no idea the road was too bad and we were in a Maruti which considerably higher compared to many in that class) when Sheham got a call asking him to return as his wife was not feeling well. We were in a dilemma whether to go back empty-handed or let Sheham go and do this by some other means.

I didn’t wanna turn around having come so close coz not being able to visit especially a waterfall going all the way is something that tastes bitter. It not only tastes bitter and it keeps nagging at me. Reluctantly, we decided to let Sheham go and Shareez and I walked up for another 1-1.5km along the road till we reached a sign board giving details about a Asupini Ella Village Project with half a dozen faces of politicians. The road forks into two here and you have to take the right turn that goes uphill.

Another 500m or so will take you to a stream that flows across the road. Pass this and you’ll come to a sharp right bend with a black wooden electricity pole on the left. On this about 6ft up is nailed a tiny board saying “To Ella” with an arrow. We were grateful for this and followed it. The path hasn’t been used recently, must be due to rain and was infested with leeches. We kept going uphill and Shareez who had had very little physical activities in this kind was ready to give up after a 1km or so.

“Sri, machan shall we go back?” was his words but I wasn’t ready to do that. I just left him there and did a quick recon ahead and found the path to be flat after a short hike. So encouraging him we reached the flat terrain and after another 400-500m came to a concrete-slab paved path. The falls was visible through the trees and we hurried and saw the viewing platform below. The concrete path runs for another 200m or so towards the top of the falls (you can’t get down to the top especially in rains) and we followed it.

Finally getting there and seeing the top of her was something that’ll remain in my mind forever. She was so beautiful, not overflowing even after all that rain, and looked very serene. The leeches nonetheless had different ideas as they kept coming wave after wave at us while we were enchanted by this beauty. We got back to where the viewing platform was and got down to it. This is a highly commendable job by whoever did this as it makes the life so much easier for the tourists to this remote falls.

Unfortunately, it’s now in a somewhat dilapidated state maybe due to the lack of maintenance and adverse weather. I felt some warm liquid running along both my feet and removing the shoes found nearly two dozen leeches hanging onto me merrily sucking what little blood I have. Removing them left some long trails of blood but I couldn’t bother with it much as the sheer beauty of Asupini Ella took hold of me.

She was similar to a Bo Leaf, especially the upper bit. Unfortunately from where we stood, there’s no chance to take a picture of the full package. We saw a damn built at the base of the falls diverting water to the light house we saw in our last journey. The water taking huge tunnel could also be seen while we were coming down the road towards Aranayake and probably we could reach the base along that tunnel providing the path is ok.

Having spent about half hour with this beauty and unplugged all the leeches we were ready to get back and face the second attack.

Initially we took the wrong turn but rewarded with this view

Young plants

Raksawa Mountain Range with Asupini Ella in the middle

The view was breath-taking despite gloomy skies

Closer view

There’s the beauty, very much like a Bo Leaf

Closer view

Further more to go, this is just before Sheham had to turn around

Take the right uphill road

The turn off to the footpath is just at the end

Here’s Shareez with the sign

Leech territory

Soaked mountains

Endless view

The path is somewhat better around here

Closer

Another sign

Where Shareez had had enough

Finally, the viewing platform is just below

Zoomed in

We went up the path looking for the top and found this on the way

The top

Closer

Plunging down

Back to the hut, Shareez going down

There she is

Lush greenery

Sweet white foam

View is mostly obscured by those trees

Closer

The top

Drops

Surrounding mountains

Wow

My dream shots…

Selawa Cave Temple

The time had gone past 3pm and we knew there was no hope to visit any other falls. While walking back we met a tuk-tuk (Ananda’s) and he agreed to take us back to Horawela. From there we got into Indika’s tuk-tuk and headed towards Selawa Cave Temple which was built by King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe about 400 years ago.

This is located about 6km from Horawela and you need to cross the big bridge and take the right turn towards Horawela-Rahala Road. This is as soon as you cross the bridge at Horawela, to your right with a big sign board. As this road was being repaired, we took the Horawela-Hemmathagama (the left turn after the bridge) and took a cross road to join back with this road.

We reached the temple while the rain kept on. After a set of cement stairs we reached the main image house which was locked. There were some elderly people at the Sanghawasa watching us and we went to speak to them. After a short deliberation among themselves, they finally decided no harm will come to them by opening and showing us this majestic creation. Shareez looking like a foreigner also helped make up their mind. They were under that impression so deep when we spoke in Sinhala they had asked Indika how on earth this foreigner is speaking Sinhala for which Indika had replied after a few tours they might know the language. It had apparently satisfied their curiosity.

Until we were back on the road, even Indika didn’t know that Shareez was Sri Lankan, born and bred. According the elders, the image house had been broken into by the treasure hunters who don’t believe the temples can look after these precious artefacts. It’s a pity to see almost all the temples in Sri Lanka have suffered the same fate despite authorities boasting about improved security measures. Archaeology department is helpless and probably tooth-less too.

Whenever, we go to an ancient temple like this, they all give the same disgusting look suspecting each and every one to be treasure hunters for which we really can’t blame them. Thankfully these elders were very supportive and gave us a good narration of the value of the place. It’s even sadder to see they had ruined the precious wall paintings doing the wiring for electricity.

There was a big stone inscription elaborating the story behind this temple and we spent good hour or so admiring this marvel and while we were leaving the chief monk who’d been to Kandy was coming up the steps. The elders pleaded not to tell the monk that they had shown us the interior fearing he would scold them and we duly obliged. I hope you too will keep that as a secret.

Here’s the notice board I told you about

The path to the temple

Towering rocks

The image house

Here’s the front

The whole thing is underneath this huge rocky boulder

The stone scripture

Closer view from the left

And the right

At the door

Some more, wonder if it was wise to paint them over. See the wiring too

The corridor

Entrance to the main image chamber

The paintings on the rock

The door with paintings and ancient lock

Solid locks despite the age

Built in 2222, Buddhist Calendar (Some 380 years ago)

Renovation in 2471, Buddhist Calendar (Some 131 years ago)

Paintings on the rocky ceiling

More

The treasure hunters had broken the back of this Buddha Statue’s head

This pillow apparently had a nice gem carved into it but was stolen. This is a renovated one by the Archaeology Dept.

Just look at these paintings

Paintings-covered wall

Hundreds of them

Many more

Towards the back of the statue, these are fading away

Nearly gone

The other chamber

One of many Buddha Statues

Fading away

Similar one to the statue at the main chamber

Another

In this room, the paintings are not so preserved like the main one

Not in good condition

Some wall paintings too

This was on the roof

Time to go

Afterwards, we got Indika to drop us off at Mawanella around 5.30pm and on his recommendation we went to Seetha Restaurant which turned out to be a grand one. As usual, we had had nothing to eat since the breakfast which was so light (two buns) I was surprised we kept going with no problem. After a hearty meal, we took Gampola-Colombo bus and reached Kadawatha where Shareez bid farewell to me around 8.00pm.

This turned out to be a yet another super-duper journey despite plagued with many hazards. It was good to see Shareez and actually being able to do a journey with him.

Well folks, this is where I say good-bye to you all. Hope you enjoyed this report and introduction of a new mate to my old gang (Shareez is not that old, mind you).

Well, keep travelling but be safe.

Cheers,

Auf Wiedersehen!

Sri…

After two months of break of travelling I decided to restart from Sri Pada journey. This was my 10th visit to Sri Pada peak and I wanted to make it special for me. I decided to use most conventional routes of climbing-Hatton and Rathnapura trails but climb up with the procession which accompanies gold painted idol and casket of sacred relics.

Traditional procession
Traditional procession of Sri Pada starts on the first day of the season-usually on full moon poya day of December month. It begins at Galpoththawala RMV (ගල්පොත්තාවල රජමහා විහාරය)-Pelmadulla. Some rituals are carried since one week duration at Saman Dewalaya of Galpoththawala RMV. Then it comes to Rathnapura Saman Dewalaya. Procession gets divide into two and make two lines up along Hatton and Rathnapura routes. From Pelmadulla to starting of main routes it goes as a motorcade. Along the way people worship and do some rituals to procession. Once it reaches Nallathanniya and Palabathgala, “Kapu Mahathun” කපු මහතුන් (devoted men for god) will take over it. They carry things up with traditional music. They will place idol and casket at “Pahatha Maluwa” (පහත මළුව) for a while and bring to “Uda Maluwa” (උඩ මළුව) at auspicious time. After doing some rituals (Thewawa-තේවාව) Sri Pada is opened for public. This will mark the beginning of annual Sri Pada season.
This time another procession climbed up in Kuruwita route as well.
We selected the train as the mode of transport from Fort to Hatton. As I have not been at luxury compartment before, I wanted to go by that. It was planned to reach Hatton by 2.45pm but came to Hatton at 4.30pm. Main disadvantage of this compartment is we can’t move to the foot board and enjoy the sceneries of railway side with cool breeze. If you value the comfortable travelling this is ideal.

Train gets its turn

Inside Rajadhani compartment

Trio of the journey

Luckily Nallathanniya bus was waiting for us at Hatton station. Though we planned to have late lunch from Hatton, gave up the idea and got into the bus. Early part of Nallathanniya (Dell House) had good food stalls. Following the Lunch+Dinner at 6pm we started the journey.
Procession has not arrived to Nallathanniya at that time. People were decorating the road to welcome the procession. We were blessed with our first Dansala at Nallathanniya. People said it would take at least another 2-3hours for procession to reach Nallathanniya. Therefore we decided to climb up leisurely and wait at Uda Maluwa for procession

Welcome for procession

Trail map

God Sumana Saman-සුමන සමන් දෙවියෝ

Entering to Hatton trail

“Flower Dansala” -මල් දන්සැල

There were number of Saman Dewalaya on our way up

Some important telephone numbers

Passing Makara Thorana-මකර තොරණ

Crossing red bridge-රතු පාලම

Rotti Dansala-රොටී දන්සැල

Siri Pada pathway is lightened

Japanese Peace Pagoda

December Full Moon

Supposed to be the “Diwa Guhawa” -දිවා ගුහාව of Hatton trail

Gangulathanna Old Ambalama-ගගුලතැන්න අම්බලම

Dansala at Gangulathanna

Gangulathanna Siddhalepa Dansala

Passing “Seetha Gangula” (සීත ගගුල). Amateurs are supposed to have a bath here. There are some rituals done at here when procession passes there.

අදුරෙන් එලියට

“Rathu Ambalama” රතු අම්බලම

Indikatupana/Geththampana (ඉදිකටුපාන/ගෙත්තම්පාන).

Warm coffee for cold

වදින්න යන මේ නඩේට සුමන සමන් දෙවි පිහිටයි

Just before Mahagiri Dambaya we were heard the sound of traditional drums somewhere down. Procession has reached us. We spent there for a while to join with the procession.

First glance of procession

We let it pass

Reaching Maluwa

Procession was welcome by devotees at Maluwa

It was 3.30am when we reached Maluwa. The premise was packed with devotees and somehow we were able to find a place to sit. Sacred things were kept at Pahatha Maluwa and it was supposed to bring to Uda Maluwa at auspicious time. Once God Sumana Saman’s idol and casket of relics were kept at Uda Maluwa, rituals were done till about 8am. Thereafter sacred foot print was opened for devotees for new season.

Bringing of sacred things at auspicious time to Uda Maluwa

Entering to Uda Maluwa

Passing over devotees’ hands

සාධු සාධු……….

Uda Maluwa is filled with devotees

I was lucky enough to enjoy the sun set in this time as well

Awaiting for sun rise of new Sri Pada season

Pre sun rise sky

Pre sun rise sky…..

Sun rise started

First sun rise of the season

View of Hortain Plains from Sri Pada

Following worship of sacred foot print, we started to get down along Rathnapura-Palabaththala route

Important points at Rathnapura-Palabaththala route

Getting down along “Mahagiri Damba”

Pathway is covered with mist

The point where Mukkuwaththa (මුක්කුවත්ත) trail ends. This is the first pump house will come across when you go down in Rathnapura road.

“Ehela Kanuwa” ඇහැළ කණුව

Pilot view of Adiya Malathanna Ambalama-ආඩියා මල තැන්න අම්බලම

View of Sri Pada at Adiya Malathanna Ambalama

It is 53years old. All these pump houses and stairs of Mahagiri Dambaya were built by Walkers and sons Pvt Ltd.

Makara Thorana of Rathnapura trail. (Elevation is 1650m).

Haramitipana Ambalama. Just before this Kuruwita trail joined with Rathnapura trail. At this junction Galwangediya (ගල්වoගෙඩිය) boutique is situated

එක කුඩය යටින් ……..

“Heen Gangula” හීන් ගගුල- The place where water is pumped to Uda Maluwa.

“Seetha Gangula” සීත ගගුල- A tributary of Kuru River. Some rituals are done here when procession passes this place.

Newly made steps.

Getting down along “Darmarajagala” ධර්මරාජගල- During Kotte Era a person called Darmaraja has made these stairs with assistance of Perumal Arachchi (පෙරුමාල් ආරච්චි).

Unusual placement of this rock adds an extra beauty to the path.

“Gaja Mansala” (ගජ මoසල)-Sometimes ago a rest (Ambalama) was here. Now it is not there. This was built by famous poet called “Gajaman Nona” (ගජමන් නෝනා).

Geththampana/Indikatupana (ඉදිකටුපාන/ගෙත්තම්පාන). – A tributary of Kuru River flows over here

A porter who carries goods to shops in Rathnapura road. Usually shops of upper part of Rathnapura trail get supply via Hatton trail.

Origin of Kalu Ganga

“Kodiya Kade” (කොඩිය කඩේ)

Gatunil (ගැටුනිල)

“Katu Kithula” (කටු කිතුල)- Large number of Kithul trees are present here to give name Katu Kithula.

It was so nice to walk there

“Lihini Hela” (ලිහිණි හෙල)-People get used to shout and hear echo of it. A woman called Lihini has been fallen from here and died. Therefore it is called Lihini Hela.

“Lihini Hela Ambalama” (elevation 1100m). We visited Dansala here.

“Kokatiya Kada” (කොකටිය කද)- A large Kokatiya tree has been fallen on the road at this area.

“Dorala Kade” (දොරල කඩේ) – Presence of Dorala /Dorana trees in this area give this name.

View of Palabathgala from Dorala Kade

New stairs from Palabathgala to Adiyamalathenna were built by Sri Lanka Army. This is to commemorate it

Galpoththawala (ගල්පොත්තාවල) mountain/Gatunil Mountain

Entering to Pawanella (පවනැල්ල) village (elevation 600m).

Bridge over the Kalu River at Pawanella village

End of the journey. Now we are at Palabathgala village (elevation 400m).

Thanks for reading.
සුමන සමන් දෙවි පිහිටයි.

The map – Click to enlarge

The North – East monsoons were setting in almost after two years so it was time to hunt some cascades around Dambethenna. There was an old trip report from Priyanjan which guided me through this adventure. I took a bus from Haputhale towards Dambetenna and got off at the tea factory. From here onwards my guide was the kmz file given by Priyanjan in his trip report. Better to refer that otherwise you would not see or find these beauties. Taking the road in front of the factory and taking another left turn took me through line houses where I ended up following a road which connected to the Monarakanda estate road.

My first attraction was Lemasthota falls and to view it I had to descend through vegetable plots. After viewing this beauty I returned back to the road and continued uphill counting all those cascades which were rumbling down the opposite hill to feed Lemasthota oya. There were about 5 prominent cascades. I couldn’t enjoy them as I wished because the mist started engulfing the whole area within minutes and guess what it never went off. I went forward along the Monarakanda road and reached Dewatagala tower where I found a foot path which ran along the range. Unfortunately the mist intervened and obscured a bird’s eye view. I returned back on the same road and took off towards Haputhale.

Lemasthota falls dambetenna

close up

cascade number 1 at dambetenna

cascade number 2 at dambetenna

close up

cascade number 3 at dambetenna

cascade number 4 at dambetenna

mist is coming

seen nearby

cascade number 5 at dambetenna

Dambetenna

and it covered everything

engulfed

misty rd to monarakanda

lovely

religious place at devatagala

devatagala tower

devatagala range

slope towards monarakanda

another beauty

moss	lemasthota valley

finally it cleared off (cascade no 5)

past and present

common but a beauty

mixed vegetable plots

and also tea

After reaching Haputhale and having lunch I walked towards the Forest department office where I got permission to enter the Nature trail. Here is a detail post about the haputhale nature trail by Priyanjan. This seems to be a paradise for bird lovers and it’s a must visit place for them. The trail is well paved and there are benches set up at different locations. The path divides after few hundred meters and taking the right hand turn will get you back to the main trail after a lengthy walk. There were few leeches since this was the wet season so keep in mind about them too. If you wish you could enter the tea estate which lies close to the trail to have a splendid view towards down south. After spending around 2 ½ hours I exited the Arboretum and headed back towards Monaragala to end my day.

road side board

FD office

the starting point

ferns

Tickell’s blue flycatcher

many species were seen

rising tall

lovely path

and frogs too

nice place to refresh

narrow path

rhino horned lizard

through the branches

forest path

another one

still wet

micro life

and more

wet paths

more scenery

red wood

fresh water crab

spooky

mushrooms

it was a thick mist

etaburu

have some rest

Eucalyptus tree

more seats

fallen

natural cave

red lilies

more boards

FD bungalow not for visitors

River Boarding is a board sport in which the participant lies prone on their board with fins on their feet for propulsion and steering. This sport is also known as hydrospeed in Europe and as riverboarding or white-water sledging in New Zealand, depending on the type of board used.
Unlike the white water rafting It is quite challenging and you will need some practice before you take the ride. We didn’t know this so just went and took the ride but couldn’t get pass even the third rapid due to lack of training.

Starting point in Kitulgala (TEAM39). This is how the Board looks like. There are some handles to hold on and you will get the knee, arm pads and flippers from the operators.

You will need to carry the boards which is about 10kg , all the way down to the river

Wearing flippers!

First rapid… here we come !!

.	First stop…But I was been swept away by the river current. (Red circle in the picture) however managed to get back with the team.

All OKYY

Continue further

Guide showing us the best path to take.

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Getting ready for the second rapid

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Camera man’s (Eugene) board flipped over which forced us to stop.

We decide to stop the tour as some of the body gear had washed away by the river current and the guide went after it. Also he refuse to go beyond this point due to lack of self confidence and training we have.

.	Returning back to camp

Since we couldn’t finish the River bordering tour, we thought of taking a river rafting tour.

It is advisable to have a meal a couple of hours before diving, in order to have energy to keep warm. River bordering is neither recommended for children under 15 or adults over 50. Being physically fit is advisable and all protection items should be used at all times.
It cost us 8000+ guide tips for both tours. They charged us less since we couldn’t finish one trip. But we promised our self that we will return soon to finish what we started. Thank you for reading!

Pitakotte Gal Ambalama

On a sunny day at around 8.00 am we reached kiribathgoda to travel to Pitakotte. We came to Borelle and took a bus to Pitakotte. We came there by 10.00 am.

The first remaining ruin of the Kingdom of Kotte which we were able to see was the Gal Ambalama. This was a resting place during the Kingdom of Kotte for people who visited the Kingdom for various purposes.The Gal Ambalama 20 feet and 15 feet in length.There are 10 posts made out of stone and the roof has a beautiful Kanimadala.(Configuration of the roof at that time).This is being used by people even today as a resting place.

Pitakotte gal Ambalama

Click Image to Enlarge

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Kotte Rajamaha Viharaya

The Kotte Rajamaha Viharaya is situated 100 meters through “Rajamaa Vihara” road from Pitakotte-Nugegoda main road.

This road ends with the main entrance of the Rajamaha Viharaya.At the time of Kingdom of Kotte the Dalada Maligawa(the palace which the tooth relic is preserved)

was situated in this temple. Salalihini Sandeshaya( A massage written in the form of series of poems which was taken by a bird) depicts that this palace had three floors and the tooth relic was kept at the upper floor.

The was created by Parakramabahu VI (1412 BC-1467 BC).

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.	Click Image to Enlarge

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National Museum of Kotte

We had to take a bus to Pitakotte Bangalawa junction from Kotte Rajamaha Viharaya. The National Museum of Kotte is situated along the main road. The information about Kingdom of Kotte can be obtained from this museum. We could not take any photos as it is prohibited.

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Rampart of Kotte

After that we turned to a road called Rampart road where we saw the ruins of Ancient Rampart.

Rampart of Kotte

Rampart of Kotte

Rampart of Kotte

Rampart of Kotte

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Alakeshwara Palace

Then we came to the archeological place called “Alakeshwara”. This is a ruin of the palace of Nishanka Alagakkonara,well known as “Alakeshwara”. He was the pioneer in building the Kingdom of Kotte.

Alakeshwara Palace

Alakeshwara Palace

Alakeshwara Palace

 Beddagana weherakanda Ruins

These ruins are located in Weherakanda road turning from Baddagana Road in junction Banagala of the Nugegoda – Rajagiriya main road. The distance from junction Bangala to Weherakanda road is 2Km.The Weherakanda ruins are at the end point of Weherakanda Road.

The ruin is two Stupas of two different sizes built on a rectangular base. One stupa is 30 feet in diameter while other is 24 feet in diameter. There are three Pesha Walalus (Rings around the stupa) in each stupa. The staircase for the stupa is created in the drection north and west of the base. A ruin of foundation to a Pilma geya(A house which the status are kept) also can be seen on the base.

Beddagana weherakanda Ruins

Beddagana weherakanda Ruins – Click Image to Enlarge

Beddagana weherakanda Ruins

Beddagana weherakanda Ruins

There are two different ideas about this place. Most of them believe that this is a ruin of a temple at that time. But according to the idea of Professor Senarath Paranawithana this is a ruin of the tomb of king parakramabahu VI and his queen (Ranmanika). Also there is an idea which is not very famous that is this is a ruin of a dewalaya offered to a god of Kataragama.

Thanks for Reading !

Hi folks, I’m happy, rather overjoyed coz managed to do yet another Tour de Waterfall, this time with my long-life buddy, Hariya. The inter-monsoon kept hammering the whole country with gallons of water and the dried out waterfalls were revived as a result. This is when I get this nagging feeling in me forcing me to go looking for them. Whether I had seen them before or not doesn’t really matter so long as I get the chance to visit them.

When Hariya called asking if we could go see Doovili Ella in Kalthota, I couldn’t have been happier. It brought back the sweet memories of our old gang doing a tour in and around Kalthota. Kalthota Doovili Ella is one of the most beautiful of all I’ve seen to date. She has this unique way of falling down very much similar to a pyramid. The whole Walawe River squeezed through that tiny opening with so much pressure creating millions of water drops scattering the entire area.

Even the base pool is nice and surrounded by some gorgeous rock formations. So thinking of the prospects of seeing her once again made my heart beat ever-so-faster. So we set our plans for the 6 Dec despite all the weather forecasts predicting heavy rains. As Hari hadn’t been to Kirindi Ella or Doovili Ella before, we decided to visit them plus another two, Kuda Ella and the evading Diyawini Ella that we missed due to lack of time even after going all the way to her.

So the prospects looked good and weather wasn’t gonna frighten us. However, looking back, the rain gods were extremely kind to us. They kept away as much as possible trouble as little as possible as if taken a fancy to us. Even though they were kind to keep away, not so kind to Hariya’s bottom as he kept repeating Great Western Journey slips getting his back muddy.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Kirindi Ella, Kuttapitiya.
2. Kuda Ella, Kuttapitiya.
3. Doovili Ella, Kalthota.
4. Doovili Ella Upper Falls, Kalthota.
5. Diyawini Ella, Diyawinna.
6. Piyangiri Ella, Diyawinna.

We left Colombo around 4.15am (another milestone for Hariya being able to get up without fuss and coming at the promised time) in the December chill. The bike ride early in the morning sent me shivering while Hariya was cozily wrapped in his rain coat as he was expecting it to rain at any moment. Passing Kaduwela, Avissawella and Yatiyanthota in the darkness but with a fully-starred sky overhead was something grand and I savored the scenery so much.

Arriving at Kuruwita, feeling ravenous (as always before a journey) I managed to convince Hariya to stop at French Way, one popular eating place along Ratnapura Road that offers a very tasty breakfast buffet for Rs. 350/-++. This was not the usual thing we do and it made a huge dent in our small budget for which Hariya kept moaning about. The amount we had allocated for a single waterfall sky-rocketed as a result.

The meal was tasty and we had a hearty one followed by tasty cups of tea. The sky had turned into its typical gloominess once again threatening to break free. We pushed on towards Pelmadulla passing the morning rush hour at Ratnapura.

Kirindi Ella

We turned into the Kuttapitiya Road (in front of Cargills at Pelmadulla) also known as Vidyala Road. The road was a mix bag of carpet, washed-out concrete, lose rocks and the last 3-3.5km typical-gravel-estate road. It’d be tough going for a car, especially a hybrid, but not impossible. The total distance is around 6-7km.

We reached the Kirindi Ella trail head where there used to be a ticket counter but no completely abandoned, leaving only a derelict structure. However, the sign-board is newly done and you can’t miss it. We started down the trail which is a long set of concrete steps. Whoever did this must be complemented as it’s a great relief to be able to get down rather easily to the falls.

Unfortunately, there are a couple of places that can be tricky to cross, especially in the rains. Moreover, the concrete pillars that border the path with iron railings are now in their last legs. Most of them had fallen off or broken in half leaving skeleton metal pokes jutting out. Some of the pillars are now not connected to the ground properly having come loose from the foundation after hundreds of times of being used. So you gotta be extra careful when you get down the path holding onto the railing.

The steps are covered by moss making it very slippery. So watch your step all along and don’t let your guard down. Falling along this is not something you wanna add to your memories.

Kirindi Ella Trail – Info.

Distance – 394.732m

Time Taken – About 40 mins

Elevation from Trail Head (414m) to the Base (271m) – 143m

Trail Head – 6.6423, 80.5617

Base of the Fall – 6.6417, 80.5632

We started around 8.05am and got down the steps first to the viewing platform. The whole waterfall was obscured by the mist leaving us no chance to take a picture. So we decided to get down immediately. The path had many water streams flowing across making it slippery.

The going was slow but we took it cautiously and finally reached the bottom while the mist lifted off and sun appeared out of nowhere sending his golden-brown rays across the waterfall falling on to the rocky slope. What we saw amazed us both, even though I had seen this beautiful girl before. The water levels were richer than I saw her last, dancing down the rocky slope.

It was great to be back and we had her for ourselves as this being a weekday and even if anyone bothered, they wouldn’t have made it this early. Having spent about half hour taking pictures of her in every possible way, we decided to go hunting for the Kuda Ella.

The new notice board at the trail head

From the observation platform. The mist covered everything, the falls is faintly visible

Giving the “Rashta Look”

Wondering what’s happening around

Here she is

Holy, Moly, Guacamole

The top of her

The base

Sliding along the rock. Note the sunlight on the rocky wall to the left

Full flow

Towards the top

Hari taking it carefully

See you lady!

Steps

Hari coming up the path

Here the mist lifted off

What we can see from the platform

Amazing

The full package

Scary

There were 2062 of them. Ask Hari if you don’t trust me coz he counted them.

Kuda Ella

We met a villager on the way uphill and when we asked him about Kuda Ella, he knew nothing about it. Then we simply asked if there’s any other fall other than Kirindi Ella to which he doubtfully replied “There is, a very small one by the road side about a mile up”. That was enough to see us going but Hariya didn’t wanna waste any time hunting for a small waterfall but I’d seen pictures taken by Ashan long time back and knew this was to be a considerably larger fall.

What we didn’t know was whether it was the same one. We took our chances and got back on the bike. Oh, I forgot to tell you about the uphill journey of Hariya, didn’t I? Do you really wanna know about it? Well, this time, you’ll have to call and ask him coz I’m too pressed for time and have to hurry it up with my tale. Please don’t tell him that I asked you to call and get the details though.

Ok, getting back to the topic, you gotta go further uphill along the same road you came up to Kirindi Ella. After about 500m, you’ll come to a ‘Y’ junction with an estate board. According to that left turn leads to a reservoir and you don’t need that. The straight one goes to the factory. That’s what you need, so go straight till you meet the factory looming over you to the left just by the road.

There’s a bus service up to this point from Pelmadulla (Pelmadulla-Thotilagama Bus) and we saw another going all the way to Balangoda. Unfortunately, I can’t tell you how frequent they are run but from the look of it, there can’t be many. We asked from the tuk-tuk park about the Kuda Ella and as usual they had no idea whatsoever. Then we asked if there’s any other fall for that we got the same reply but that guy who spoke to us was very evasive as if sensing trouble from us.

He said there’s a small fall closer to the road nearby and we just followed the road further now going downhill passing the factory. Another 300-400m, you’ll see the Kuda Ella (not a small fall she is) to the left while going down the road. There’s a small bridge and passing this, the road will bend sharply to the right. Just here, there’s a left turning to a mud-walled house and you have get up to that. There’s a dog but not a fierce fellow. Maybe it got scared by the gigantic Hariya for it looked away when we approached.

Having got the permission to cross the garden, we went to the back of the house where there’s tea cultivation in big time. There’s a stream that goes too behind the house. The fall is about 100-200m from this point. You can follow the stream or walk through the tea patch parallel like we did. Soon you’ll come to a point where you can see this gorgeous waterfall that falls in two segments.

The upper part is about 8-10ft in height but the lower part resembling somewhat the Lebanon Estate Falls 1, is around 40ft in height. I got uphill along the tea patch to get a clear shot of both segments but Hari, after the Kirindi Ella climb, didn’t bother with that. We reached the base of the falls and you can only see the lower part of her as the upper segments sits a bit behind the lower part.

We enjoyed this beauty for a long time. I just can’t imagine why they kept telling us this was a small fall. Well, compared to Kirindi Ella, she’s tiny but still a waterfall with a height of around 50ft is something you don’t discount like that. The water levels were great and Hariya had to practically drag me from her.

We retraced our steps and got back on the road heading back towards Pelmadulla and then onto Balangoda. Our next stop was the gorgeous, sexy, breath-taking, sensational, cuddly, sensuous and kissable Kalthota Doovili Ella.

The water stream under the tiny bridge I told you about

The house and the water stream towards the falls is behind

After about 100m along the stream

Took to the tea patch

There she is

The top half

The more beautiful lower part

Picturesque

Framed

Hmmm

Getting to the base

From the base, you can barely see the top

Very nice

Portrait

Time to go back

Kalthota Doovili Ella & Doovili Ella Upper Falls

Doovili Ella Trail – Info.

Distance – 312.378m

Time Taken – About 15 mins

Elevation from Trail Head (338m) to the Base (202m) – 136m

Trail Head – 6.6600, 80.8654

The Falls – 6.6619, 80.8660

We stopped at a shop in Rajawaka and had some very tasty Dhal Wadei with soft drinks. They were so tasty we bought extra and kept to have later.

The turn off to Doovili Ella is just before the 26^th km post on Kalthota Road passing Rajawaka, Kuragala turn off and Galtamyaya Ruins. From the main road, there’s another 3km to the falls and about half-way is the ticket counter. Usually on weekdays the counter is not open full time as the number of people visiting this falls is minimal. However, Sarath’s, the person at the ticket counter, house is nearby and you can call him on the number I’ve given.

The gate was closed by the time we went but the side entrance, a narrow passage for people was open. We were wondering what to do when he appeared from a nearby house running to us. He opened the gate and we bought tickets, Rs. 20/- each. I guess it’s worth paying that amount as the ticket itself is well-designed giving the information on nearby tourist attractions such as Kuragala, Galtamyaya and Budugala.

From the gate there’s another 1-1.5km drive to the car park and there’s a boutique where you can have a snack. They’ll even do lunch if you order in advance. The shop was open even though there weren’t many visitors but on our return he’d closed shop and gone home. We could hear the roar of her from up here and I was itching to get to the base. The path is well maintained and easy to get down.

The surrounding area of the Doovili Ella is fascinating. It looks more like the Medicinal Garden inside Gal Oya National Park. I didn’t notice this first time as I’d not been to Gal Oya by then. The mainly Mana surrounding with scattered medicinal plants such as Nelli is something unique. The area is so tranquil and breath-taking.

We started down the path looking for this beauty. The path is well maintained and we even saw people working on site clearing the area, cutting grass and some maintenance work which is a good sign that the authorities take care of the place. The path is bordered by lush greenery and towards the bottom it runs through a partial forest.

At the end you’ll come to a kind of a circus where the right path will take you to the front of the falls and then to the observation area while the path to the left will lead to the top of her plus the Doovili Ella Upper Falls. We took the right and just going on got the first glimpse of her and that made my front foot stopped in mid-air. Here was the moment of truth, one beautiful girl falling sensually wearing a long King Louie-era French-style milky white skirt.

I went mad with joy and kept running about trying to get the best possible angle to picture her while Hari, seeing this one for the first time, kept up with me. The sky looked grim and started drizzling lightly that got a bit heavier but it couldn’t ward us off. I had taken an umbrella with me which helped to take pictures uninterrupted. After spending time seeing her from the front, we went to the top of her by circling around.

The water levels were so high and we could see the pressure at the tiny opening where the whole of Walawe River had to squeeze through. The sight was unbelievably beautiful but Hari insisted we go see the Doovili Ella Upper Falls that is a bit upstream and can reach very easily. However, the rocks can be slippery so mind your step.

She is very small compared to her big sister measuring I guess about 6-8ft but there was so much water as Walawe River was coming through a tiny opening creating this chubby girlie. The base pool was so large and would’ve been ideal on another day for a bath which Hariya was also eagerly waiting for. Unfortunately, the soaring water levels made it so frightening even Hariya, self-acclaimed experience swimmer, was scared to get into which was a very wise decision.

We rested our feet and had the Wadei bought at Rajawaka. They tasted even better with Jeewani. After a break, we decided to get back on the bike and go looking for another girl that I missed having reached so close last time.

We’re here

Closer to the shop

Starting the trail

Bordered by many trees

Nelli

Picturesque

Out of a dream

Arched

Just look at her

Here she is

Portrait from the side

Going towards the front of her

Another viewing place

The almighty base pool

The viewing platform with the fence

Through the fence, rather over it

Pristine white

The top with twin water streams joining as they fall on

Well maintained

Towards the top

Rocky

Looking at her from the top

Side view

The view from the side

The base

Water stream and going up towards the Doovili Ella Upper Falls

Here she is

Another ferocious beauty

Jumping in the air

Hariya tired but still munching on a Wadei

Down she goes

Artistic

Steps

Ooops

The view

Zoomed in

Diyawini Ella & Piyangiri Ella

Getting back to Kalthota Road we headed towards Kalthota which is 4km away. At Kalthota we turned to the right that runs through Budugala, Welipathayaya, Damwelodaya and Diyawinna. Even though I’d visited Kuragala, Galtemyaya and Budugala before, Hariya hadn’t but we simply didn’t have the time for them. That means there’ll probably be another tour very soon.

So we reached Diyawinna Village and I could remember the turn off even though we asked a couple of locals just to be on the safe side. Closer to Diyawinna, we saw this tall and elegant beauty falling among the green forest with a charcoal grey sky overhead. That is a picture that’s etched in my memory.

We reached the Sri Dewagiri Cave Temple Road which runs through a paddy field. They’re now building kinda Makara Thorana by the road and there’s a notice board too. As per Hari’s suggestion we took pictures from the main road first and then along the nearly 1km journey towards the temple, we got many more views of her popping in and out of our view as if mocking us.

It took more than 40 mins for us to reach the temple; you can imagine how slow we’d been going. Arriving at the temple premises there was a notice saying that nobody is allowed inside the premises without the prior notification or approval from the chief monk between 6pm and 6am. I couldn’t believe my eyes. A Buddhist Temple is never closed day or night but now even they had to be closed and monitored thanks to the damn treasure hunters. You won’t find any old temple or archaeology site that is not vandalized by these inhumane creatures. I guess we must hold the record for having the most vandalized archaeology sites.

Feeling depressed and excited at the same time we reached the temple to find it isolated. Nobody was in sight save for the tuk-tuk parked inside. We wanted to speak to someone and ask for permission to leave the bike and walk towards the falls as the footpath starts from the temple but nobody was in sight. We had no choice but to leave the bike and helmets there. We started the hike and there was a small notice board nailed to a coconut tree and we followed it.

About 30m into the hike you’ll come to a Y junction and take the left turn. There should be another small notice board nailed to a tree too. Follow the clear footpath for maybe 100-150m and you’ll see another notice board about 10ft high pointing uphill to your right. The footpath continues straight too but don’t take it coz I took it for a short while on our return hoping to get to the base but after about 100m the path was nearly blocked by the overgrown trees and didn’t wanna take a chance. I guess it goes to the very base of the falls.

Keep in mind that this is the last notice board and from there you’re on your own inside the thick jungle but the footpath is not so difficult to follow. It’ll continue to go uphill and at two places will take left turns and you’ll have a short distance to walk across the jungle in those left turns. This means you keep getting closer to the falls. We could hear the mighty roar of this ferocious girl but wanted to get closer to her nonetheless.

The hike was nearly strenuous as we were already soaked by the water drops falling off the trees when we hold onto them and the soggy earth kept sapping at our energy levels. It was so dark inside as there was no way for the light to pierce the thick tree cover and I was under the impression the time was getting to 6 in the evening but all the time it had only been between 2pm and 3.30pm. I kept urging already struggling Hari on as I didn’t wanna get separated.

The continuous roar of the falls so near kept me going even though I felt at times if we were on the correct footpath. However there was no other footpath we came across but my mind was playing tricks on me. I guess that happens to everyone in a situation like that. I kept going ahead but made sure Hari was within sight. It’s really crucial to stick together especially in a jungle as separating will be fatal. The mobile reception was not there and there was no way we could’ve communicated as shouting from the top of voice couldn’t beat the continuous roar of the waterfall.

After slipping, huffing and puffing we reached what looked to be the last bit of stretch and the fall was beyond us. We took a turn in the path and there she was falling like crazy (I just remembered “Day after Tomorrow” for some unknown reason). We were amid the jungle, beyond us, maybe 50m away was the base of the second segment (the largest of all three). A huge body of water was crashing with a thunderous blow to the rocky base sending billions of water drops all over the jungle creating a huge cloudy-like effect.

We were well within the trees yet were soaked to the bone in no time. There was no chance to take out the camera and picture this roaring beauty. Hari took a picture with his phone and I took a couple of videos with mine just to show you how furious this girl really was. Numerous attempts at getting closer were to no avail. We only managed to get more and more chilled. Check the furious flow of water videos below.

Furious Diyawini Ella – Video 1 of 2

Furious Diyawini Ella – Video 2 of 2

After a brief stay, getting hammered by the fierce water stream, we decided to call it a day and head back along the treacherous downhill path. Getting down was easy but didn’t spare Hari’s poor bottom nevertheless. We were glad to get back at the temple (couple of times we nearly got lost) and the rain was falling a bit steadily.

After a few more pictures, we got on the bike and took the road passing Samanalawewa Power House and then turned towards Rajawaka at Kapugala. Coming back to Colombo, we witnessed some gorgeous sunset over the hills closer to Ratnapura. From there, taking the occasional break to rest our backs, we hit home around 9.30pm being on the road for more than 17 hours.

View from the road

Turn off

There she is

Zooming in

Over paddy fields

Just breath-taking

The top

The body

The boddy hitting the base, we reached somewhere closer to the right of that

Couldn’t reach the base

Towards Kuragala Mountains

Freshly ploughed and planted

Thanks to Treasure Hunters

At the temple

The head of the trail, note the sign

Here we go, there’s another sign is there in yellow

Here it is. The last sign. From here it’s uphill all the way

Nothing but dense forest. No pics here after until we got back on solid ground

Ok, you wonder where all the others are but nothing was taken after that. This after we came back. But do watch the videos

The fiery girl

Portrait

Lush green and plenty of water

Hari admiring the beauty

Back on the road and as we were about to go, I spotted the Piyangiri Falls towards the right. (Can you also see her?)

30X	Time to go…

V cut between Kapugala and Rajawaka

Here is the sunset

Gorgeous colors

There is a temple too

Well, that’s it folks for the time being and it got longer than even I anticipated narrating the story to you. Hope you don’t mind.

It was really a great journey and all the falls were in nearly full flow making me go mad with joy. It was good to go on a journey with Thadi Hariya once again and boy, did we have a ball!

Keep travelling guys and but be safe at all times. So far I’ve brought you a dozen of waterfall hunts and hopefully there’ll be more.

Take care…

Bene Vale!

Sri…

Just a little background on the tour. ……

Back in October of 2011 I had this bright idea of cycling to Jaffna. The easiest way of doing this was to travel on the A9, but then again that would be so boring and the whole point of riding to Jaffna was not complete the journey from point A to point B but to enjoy journey and experience the solitude and the care free way of travel. The only road that meets my expectations is the Costal road; this road hugs the western coast line of Sri lank all the way to Jaffna!!

Once the ideal road was found, I set about planning and preparing for this journey. First on the list was to buy a bike suitable for touring, once this was done it was time to customise it. This took me a good 6 months as some of the parts needed to be fabricated and others needed to be imported. Once my bike was done it was time to do a test run, the test run turned out to be very successful and only a few minor adjustments needed to be done before the final tour.

After publishing my trip report on the test run, Kasun and his friend Asanka contacted me and wanted to join on my next tour. In the beginning I wasn’t very keen on having companions but as I got to know them, I realised that we had a lot in common and most importantly we got along very well.

So we set dates several times but due to various reasons (mainly because of other trips) the tour got postponed.

Day 1 : Colombo > Negambo > Chilaw > Mundel (Marked in Red)
Day 2 : Mundel > Kalpitya > Serakkuliya > Eluwankulama (Marked in Blue)
Day 3 : Eluwankulama > Wilpattu National Park > Arippu/The Doric (Marked in Green)
Day 4 : Arippu > Nochimunai (Marked in Yellow)
Day 5 : Nochimunai > Pooneryn > Jaffna (Marked in Brown)
Day 6 : Jaffna > Nagadeepa > Jaffna (Marked in Orange)
(Click Map to Enlarge)

PLEASE NOTE THAT ALL PHOTOGRAPHS PUBLISHED IN THIS REPORT WERE TAKEN BY KASUN AND FULL CREDIT SHOULD GO TO HIM FOR PHOTO DOCUMENTING THIS TRIP.

Day 1 (121.32Km)

Colombo > Negambo > Chilaw > Mundel

Finally the day arrived and we departed form Colombo at 3.30am using the bridge connecting Colombo 15 with Hendala. After crossing the bridge we made it to the Prithipura Road which runs parallel to the sea, navigating this pothole ridden road in the dark proved to be quite a challenge as many of the potholes were full of water. Despite the difficulties we faced the scenery was stunning, the lights of the Colombo harbour could be seen in the distance and the moon light falling on the sea and the waves crashing on the shore line was really beautiful.

We continued along the coastal road and by 6.15 am we were in Negambo and as planned we had our breakfast there.

On the way Negambo

Life in Negambo

Coming Back Home

Out at Sea

From Negambo we took the coastal road towards Chilaw. However, as planned we could not cross the river mouth at Porutota because of the sandbar that usually blocks the river mouth wasn’t there. So we reluctantly had to travel a few Km on the Chilaw main road. After travelling on the main road for a few Km we managed to reunite with our beloved costal road. This road towards Chilaw is a bikers paradise not only is the road hugging the cost line but it also travels through small fishing communities & markets.

Refreshments

Anticipating the Reunion with the Costal Road

Reunited

The Coastal Road

Rough Roads

Abandoned

Can You Guess What the Luminous Thing at the Back is? It’s a Cup !!

Bikers Paradise

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Our next main stop was Chilaw, here we had lunch and had no option but to ride on the Chilaw Putlam main road as there was no alternative road that we could use.

Some ware around Mundel we decided it was time to find a place to spend the night, since we did not have a prearranged place we walked in to one of the coconut estates and asked the manager if we could pitch a tent inside the estate, he offered us an unused house but we politely refused and opted to sleep in the tent.

After having a well deserved bath at a nearby well and setting up the tent it was time to prepare our first meal on the tour. After a meal of Fried rice and meat balls we hit the sack, ending Day 1 of our tour.

The Un Used House

Our Tent

Priming the Stove

The Care Taker

Day 2 (70.99Km)

Mundel > Kalpitiya > By Fishing Boat to Serakkuliya > Eluwankulama (66.69Km on Bikes & 4.30Km by Boat)

At the break of dawn we were back on the road. The first thing we did was to get out from the main road (Chilaw – Puttalam) and by using byroads and getting lost several times we managed to make it to the Kalpitiya road. Once in Kalpitiya we wanted to visit the fort, at first the Navy officers refused permission thinking that we were a bunch of Korean tourist (during this tour we have been called many nationalities like, Japanese, Bangladeshi and every other nationality imaginable but the funniest was by a lady selling fish to another seller some ware around Marawila.  She first called us “Suddo!!” and as we got closer she noticed that we had dark skin and at once blurted out in her rather loud voice “Aprikanu Suddo, Aprikanu Suddo!!”)

After sorting out the Korean issue with the Navy we visited the fort and by the time we came out the pre arranged fishing boat was ready to take us back to the mainland so we did not have time to visit the old Dutch church.

The first thing I noticed when I came back from the fort was that my bike had a FLAT tire !!!

But very fortunately for me there was a repair shop just a stone’s throw away and they quickly changed the front tube.

After crossing the Puttalam Lagoon by boat and having lunch at a friend’s place we continued our journey towards Old Eluwankulama and after circling a bit we found a beautiful campsite. The campsite was a bit difficult to get to because you had to cross a paddy field and pushing a fully loaded bike on a narrow “neara” was no joke … but it was fully worth it. The campsite was on a sand bank of a small stream and the stream encircled the sand bank from 3 sides.

After cooking a meal of Maggi and meatballs on the BRS8 we settled in for the night.

Leaving the Estate

Off the Main Road

Lost !!

The Corratec, The GT and The Trek

Men & Machines

Cereal & Bananas for Breakfast

A Pit Stop on the way to Kalpitya

Entering Kalpitya

The Fishing Boat Ready to Take Us Across

Crossing the Kalpitiya lagoon

.	On the Way to Old Eluwankulama

In Search of a Place to Camp

Lush

Getting to the Camp Site

The Camp Site

Nothing Like a Camp Fire to Lift Your Sprits!!

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Cooling Off

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Visitor

Cooking on the BRS8

Day 3 (77.86Km)

Eluwankulama > Wilpattu National Park > Arippu/The Doric (41.46Km on bikes & 36.40Km in a Dimo Batta through Wilpattu NP)

We were packed and ready to leave the campsite by 6a.m and after finding out way out of Old Eluwankulama and 5Km later we were in front of the Wilpattu National Park Mannar road entrance. The officer in charge refused us permission to travel through Wilpattu on our bicycles; this did not come to us as a surprise so we called a contact of ours in Eluwankulama and arranged for a Dimo Batta to travel through Wilpattu. The lorry arrived around 8.20am and after loading our bikes we were off on a vey bumpy ride through the park.

In less than 1 ½ hours we were out of the park and were back on the saddle. We continued our journey on dusty roads till we reached Arippu/The Doric, on our way to Arippu we had dips in every mud hole along the way just to cool off and at the end of the day we wanted to find a nice clean place to have a wash.  So after checking out The Doric and finding it suitable to spend the night, with the help of the Navy and paddling for quite some distance found a nice bathing spot.

Dawn of a Brand New Day

Giggly Girls

The Border

Asanka Falls off His Bike!!!

Entrance to Wilpattu National Park

Dimo Batta to the Rescue

Bumpy Ride

Inside Wilpattu

.	Wilpattu Exit

Had a Dip in this Pond :-)

Washing Plates After Breakfast

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Dusty, Yet Loving It..

Nightmare of a Road

It was Fun till the Leeches Got to Us

Pit Stop

.	The Best Way to See the Country

.	Looking Out to Sea

Arippu Coast Line

In search of a Bathing Spot

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.	Finally Some Clean Water !!

.	Dive Bomber

Back to Doric (Arippu)

Magical

After a rather long dip we cycled back to The Doric to spend the night. The only people who knew that we were camping near Doric were the Navy personnel of the camp a few Km before The Doric. Our plan was to do some Stealth Camping mainly because of safety issues. We sneaked in when the sun went down and settled in for the night. The Arippu cost line was pretty windy so cooking was impossible and our only option was to open a can of Salmon and have it along with some biscuits that we had. None of us waned to eat this but our options were very limited. As I was opening the can 2 navy personnel walked in bringing us dinner !!

After a tasty meal we settle in for the night around 1am a few drops of rain fell and we had no option but to move all our gear inside Doric just in case. However while moving the bikes Kasun noticed that his bike had a flat tire!!!

So at one a clock in the morning we fixed the patch and went back to sleep. Ending day 3 of our tour.

.	The Camp Site

Too Windy to Pitch a Tent

Getting Ready to Sleep

Fixing a Patch at 1 a.m.

Fixing a Patch at 1 a.m.

Day 4 (85.50Km)

Arippu/The Doric > Nochimunai

Next day around 5.45am we were back on the saddle. Our initial plan was to go to Mannar and then go up to Talaimannar and continue back to Mannar and then proceed to Jaffna. However since we all have been to Talaimannar before the Talaimannar plan was scrapped and we continued our journey towards Jaffna avoiding Mannar.

Most of the journey was along the A32 (Mannar – Jaffna Road) since the road was under construction it was a nightmare to travel on. After paddling for around 80Km we were in search of a place to spend the night and thanks to some Army personnel who invited us to spend the night in their outpost which was on the beach in Nochimunai

We were more interested in camping outside as the location was very beautiful but our new found friends insisted that we sleep inside with them. They did not understand why we would want to sleep outside in a tent when comfortable beds were available. We could not refuse there hospitality, however we did spot an abandoned watch tower and decided that we will sleep in it. The tower was a perfect expect for that it only had one tin sheet on the roof and that was also not properly secured and was rattling throughout the night!!!

Before going to sleep we wanted to have a proper bath and our friends suggested a lake nearby. So off we went in search of this lake, after cycling for several Km and still not finding it we decided to come back, on the way back a branch of a Thal tree went inside Asanka’s bike and the rear derailleur broke !! Since we did not have a replacement part for this the only option was to remove derailleur completely and then to break the chain and make it shorter and re fix it. This would make the bike a single speed bicycle but we had no choice. Even with the proper tools this job took 2 ½ hours by which time the sun has set.

After getting fresh directions from our Army friends we again setoff to find the lake and after a refreshing bath and a having dinner with our friends we called it a night and went to sleep in our tower.

A Bygone Era

Malwathu Oya

Brothers

Gateway to Haven

.	By Passing Mannar

The A32

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Our Road

Close Up

Water Buffalos

The A32

Stretches like this were Rare

Stretches like this were more Common

Cooling Off

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Nightmares

Pit Stop

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.	On our way to the Army Outpost

.	In Search of the Elusive Lake

.	Taking Time to Smell the Roses

We did not find the Lake but the Ride was Beautiful

This can’t be the Lake??!!

The Sun is Setting

Broken Rear Derailleur, a BIG Problem !!

2 ½ Hours to Fix

Shelter for the Night

Day 5 (76.12Km)

Nochimunai > Pooneryn Causeway > Jaffna Town

After saying good bye to our army friends, we continue on our journey to Jaffna. Since the road was under construction it was a very bumpy ride (on the very first day of our tour we were very careful and were avoiding all the pot holes but by the second day we were actually looking for pot holes to ride our bikes trough after all these were mountain bikes and that is what they are made for)

The causeway leading to the Sangupiddy Bridge was in very good condition as it has been carpeted recently and a tail wind that kept pushing us form behind meant that we did not have to paddle at all. Our free ride lasted  till we entered the Jaffna peninsula but the tables changed as soon as we entered the peninsula as the tail wind that was pushing us became a very strong cross wind making our paddling very difficult. So the last leg of our journey was a nightmare. As soon as we made it to town we went in search of a hotel and after finding one we had a clean shower, dinner and went to bed ending another day of riding.

Dawn	What a Wonderful World

Endless…

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Riding Without Paddling

Sangupiddy Bridge

Cross Winds Making Life Very Difficult for Us

Welcome to Jaffna

Cooling off

Kadurugoda Temple

Day 6 (71.87Km)

Jaffna Town > Kayts > Pungudutivu (1.5Km in a Landmaster Tractor) > Nagadeepya/Nainativu (By Boat) and back to Jaffna Town

Our initial plan was to ride along the cost of Jaffna peninsula till we reached Point Pedro but because of the strong winds that we faced the previous day it was decided that this would be a nightmare and instead of going to Point Pedro we would cycle up to Nagadeepa and come back.

The ride to Nagadeepa proved to be a challenge from the beginning as we faced headwinds from the onset. Most people we met on the road to Nagadeepa thought that we were either extremely brave or extremely stupid to even think of riding to Nagadeepa (I think we fell in to the 2nd category). The headwinds were so strong that we even had to paddle very hard to go downhill !!  The hardest section was the Pungudutivu causeway but fortunately for us a man on a land master saw our misery and offered to take us across. By this time we have crossed half of the causeway and thanks to this gentleman the balance part was done in style on the back of his land master. To our new found friend surprise we wanted get of the land master as soon as we crossed the causeway, he must have thought us as mad to even think of cycling when he was offering us a free ride!! But we were here to Ride, so that is what we did till the Nagadeepa jetty (of course I did a little bit of pushing the bike now and then rather than paddling as pushing was much faster than paddling).

Battered by Headwinds

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Pushing is Faster than Pedalling !!

Life Saver

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I and Asanka have been to Nagadeepa before and we opted to stay behind with the bikes as Kasun took the ferry. Upon his return it was a mad rush to get back to Jaffna town as I was planning to catch the 8pm bus back to Colombo. The ride back to town was a piece of cake as the wind was behind us and constantly pushing us forward!! Most of the time we would let the wind push us forward than pedal. After reaching the hotel the bikes were dismantled and packed (Kasun wanted to ride back so we did not dismantle his one) and caught the 8pm bus back to Colombo.

Nainativu

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Back to Jaffna

No Need to Paddle, Tail Wind Doing All the Work

Packing

Packed & Ready

Thanks for reading.

Year and Month	January, 2015 (11th)
Number of Days	One Day Trip
Crew	3 + 2 guides
Accommodation	N/A
Transport	Private Vehicle
Activities	Trekking, Hiking, Photography, Archaeology
Weather	Sunny
Route	Narahenpita -> Kadawatha ->Warakapola -> Polgahawela -> Deliwala -> Padavigampola
Tips, Notes and Special remark	You can easily reach Padavigampola from Rambukkana. Water- 1L per person is sufficient. This is a remote village where electricity is limited. Avoid rainy seasons. 1st half of the mountain trek is steep. Ascent takes about 1 hour. But if you are planning to explore the whole mountain, this could increase. Better to start the journey as early as possible. Respect the views of the villagers’, refrain from vandalizing the inscriptions, meditating domes etc. Chathura- 0779696275 lives near the temple. Do contact him if you need any assistance, but he may not be able to guide you to the inscriptions.
Author	Dhamz
Comments	Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread Portal Tomb & Hidden Inscriptions at Padavigampola

Little I knew about the mysterious mountain, which is quite close to my friend’s organic farm. Once he described about the caves with inscriptions, I was skeptical. All sorts of thoughts were running inside my head….. Would it be a new discovery? What kind of history would it unveil? Or are they simple inscriptions done by villagers? etc. I was eager to visit, but it kept on postponing for several months due to various reasons.

I’ve almost spent two months without an expedition. Lack of workouts due to a back injury and post election crisis were driving me crazy. On a Saturday night, I was wondering whether to contact my friend and see if he’s going to the farm anytime soon. Strangely, he sent a massage, requesting to visit the farm on the following day. This sounded like the perfect getaway.

Around 5.20am on the following day, we left Narahenpita. We had breakfast soon after passing Warakapola and reached Padavigampola via Polgahawela-Deliwala around 8.00am.

How to get there

You can easily reach Padavigampola from Rambukkana. Take the bus which goes to Walgama from Rambukkana and get down near the President’s College. It’s around 1KM from the college to Padavigampola Grama Niladhari Office. Temple with the portal tomb (Maliyadeva Guharamaya) is right next to the office.

Click Map to Enlarge

 

What is a Portal Tomb / Dolmen?

A dolmen, also known as a portal tomb, portal grave or quoit, is a type of single-chamber megalithic tomb, usually consisting of two or more upright stones supporting a large flat horizontal capstone (table), although there are also more complex variants. Most of them date from the early Neolithic period (4000 to 3000 BC).

Exact reason for erecting these monuments is unknown, though it is believed that they were used as tombs or as worshipping sites.

Maliyadeva Guharamaya is the only known dolmen in Sri Lanka.

Maliyadeva Guharamaya / Dolmen

A Polish couch surfing group was already present by the time we arrived at the farm. They had spent two nights already, and were packing to leave. We were expecting some more, and thought of waiting till they arrive.

A Chinese photographer straight from India came after about an hour but was too tired to travel. So we kept waiting till Monica arrives.

Finally, she came around 2 pm, and we sent off Polish group to Hatton.

The mountain

There are two treks you can select. Both of them cover more or less the same set of rock shelters.

One trek starts few meters before the shop, if you are coming from Walgama. The temple (with the Dolmen) is just after the shop, and the other trek starts soon after you pass the temple.

We decided to take the one before the shop. Sachintha had done the trek near the temple previously

Two kids volunteered to guide us. It was around 2.50 PM

Off we go

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The trail becomes steep after several meters from the trail head, and expect 50% of the trek to be steep. After about 15 minutes, I was panting heavily, as if it’s my 1st ever hike. I’ve realized that my back injury and lack of exercises made me weak. We’ve paused for several minutes and resumed again. However, I wasn’t getting better as I struggled to hike at least for 5 more minutes.

All sorts of thoughts were running in my head. How can I hike Roopkund in May, if I cannot do a simple hike like this? Will I ever be able to lift weights because of the back injury? etc

After another 10-15 mins, we were getting close to the 1st rock shelter.

Kataaram

Kataaram

Villagers believe that the cave was offered by King Valagamba to the monks. When inquiring about the presence of archaeology department, the villagers said that it was them who translated this and mentioned about King Valagamba. However, the plaques you see at archaeology sites with the translations are not installed here (or at any of the caves in the mountain).

1st Inscription

After that, we passed several rock formations before reaching the next destination.

Rock formations

Rock formations

We came across a meditation house, which is probably modern than the inscriptions.  Another meditation house can be seen soon after. We were told that a monk used to meditate here. However, authorities (archaeology/wildlife/forest department?) had requested him to move out.

1st Meditation house

2nd Meditation house

The 2nd meditation house is much larger and seems to have several rooms and a living area. Only the remains/foundation of the living area is present. Though I don’t have a picture to capture all of this, you can check the same from my video. 2nd meditation house is vandalized pretty badly. I wonder when will our countrymen learn to respect the ancient heritage.

After trekking for few minutes, we witnessed the largest rock face on the mountain.

At the base of the cave shelter, a foundation is laid. A large number of monks can flock here. In here, the inscriptions are seen at least 30-40ft higher from the foundation. The tree in 2nd pic below is at least 50 ft in height, and we couldn’t believe the technology they used to make kataram /inscriptions so high.

Top most kataram is at least 50 ft high from the ground

Top most kataram is at least 50 ft high from the ground

A closer look at the inscriptions on the 2nd rock shelter

We spent some time here, listening to wonderful stories of treasure hunters getting in to trouble. They kids shared some more experiences, which I do not intend to reveal in this report.

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Next, the kids showed us a buried tunnel entrance, which they claimed that they’ve crawled inside years ago

Buried tunnel entrance

Then we proceeded towards a flat rock surface. It’s a nice place to rest, and was the ending point of our journey. However, there are many more caves in the mountain. We simply didn’t have time as it was 3.50 pm by then. We had to get back soon, in order to reach Colombo before midnight. It took another 45 mins for the descent.

While descending, I was thinking how lucky I am, to do the exploration without a backpack. It would have been a disaster with my physical condition. I got carried away and slipped at one place. I was hit hard on the ribs by the tree I tried to hold on to. It was a “ali madiwata koti” situation as I thought it damaged my rib cage. Luckily, no damage had been done.

On the descent, closer to the starting point, there’s a small fountain on the right side (left side if you are ascending). You have to detour few meters to get there. The kids say that it never dries. Apparently, the village pump water from it.

By 4.50 pm, we were at the small shop. They were kind enough to offer us tea. After spending some time there, we headed back to the farm and started packing up.

You can view the video from below link. Apologies for the bad quality. J Did not want to upload the raw 800mb video file to YouTube.

Thanks for reading.

For a change,This one I planned as a combination of targets. Following are my targets for the day.

1. Visit to Unknown “Kamani” Falls of Doloswala Kanda
2. Climbing up Pitakele via “Stone ladder”
3. Visit to Streepura @ Pitakele
4. Climbing down to Doloswala Kanda via Stone staircase

Though I have mentioned them separately, above places are situated in close proximity within few kms radius.
First, a brief description about Kamani Falls…..
This is an unknown hidden beauty found in Doloswala Kanda area few meters from foot path to Pitakele from Doloswala Kanda….. It is roughly 30 feets in height and has three main sections. Amount of water is less now a day as there is a diversion for mini hydro plant. The name “Kamani” which some people in Doloswala unheard of given after a 16 year old girl committed suicide by jumping from the top of the fall few years back.

Top part of “Kamani” Falls….

Whole package….

Top part zoomed….

After enjoying this beauty we started next phase of our hike-stone ladder…. In early days there was no proper road to travel to Pitakele, so people with the help of the government built two ways of travelling to Pitakele. On method is Stone ladder. Other method is Stone stair case. We decided to reach Pitakele via stone ladder. Early days as in Sri Pada, series of ladders were placed to conquer the Doloswala Mountain. But at present ladders were replaced by concrete bars which are fixed to the stone wall without any pillars to support.

Concrete stepping stones…

Climbing up….

Within one hour we reached Pitakele. As it situated on top of Doloswala Kanda the view was superb……. We were able to appreciate stunning view of the surrounding areas….

Sri Pada…

Karawita mountain range….

Kiribathgala mountain….was there one month back….

Walankanda range….

Tiriwanaketiya-Agalawatta road(between Nivithigala and Kalawana)….

One end of the Nivithigala town….….

We went in search of our next target The Streepura….. It is situated between Pitakele and Pabotuwa… It is said to be one of the hide out of Anthapura of King Walagamba during difficult times…. It is said to be a complex of tunnels and underground hideouts. At present only entrances for this tunnel complexes remain intact…. Aside from the historic value the natural beauty of this hide out is breath taking……

@ one of the entrance….

Side wall near entrance….

High walls….

Well protected..….

Myself getting down….

High roof..….

Inside the Streepura….

After the visit to Streepura, we got down to Doloswala Kanda via the stone stair way which has more than 500 steps..

Steps….

It was nearly a year and a half since we (Ashan, Amila, Hari and me) went on a bike tour covering Yatiyanthota-Seepoth and Parussella-Dedugala roads and saw many waterfalls. There were more than a dozen of them at the time making me think that the waterfalls headquarters were here. What’s more, there’s no need to go for treacherous hikes searching for these beauties as they’re more or less located either by the roadside or with a short hike.

So you’re blessed to go see more than a dozen of gorgeous falls within less than 12 hours that is something you won’t get anywhere else. So, having done it once didn’t stop me from getting back again. The intermittent rains made the thought more appealing and I managed to find Atha to accompany me after a numerous put-offs.

So on the 13^th December, we left Colombo around 6am, rather late for us, and headed towards Avissawella. Well, as the number of falls is so big, I’ll try to keep the story short and give you the directions. Otherwise, I’ll end up writing a mile-long report. I’ve managed to dig up a picture from Amazing Lanka website giving a list of falls along these roads. You’ll be amazed to see them in a cluster located so close to each other.

The list of falls on Yatiyanthota-Seepoth and Parussella-Dolosbage Roads. Pic Credits: Amazinglanka.com

At Mansala

Mediya Dola flowing next to Mansala

Creating a waterfall

Tour Highlights: 

1. Jayawindagama Falls, Jayawindagama.
2. Wee Oya Falls, Wee Oya Estate.
3. Malalpola Falls, Malalpola.
4. Kithul Ella, Malalpola.
5. Punugala aka Anda Dola Ella, Punugala.
6. Gorok Ella, Meenagala.
7. Olu Ella, Amanawala.
8. Katuwel Ella, Dombepola.
9. Parussella Falls, Parussella.
10. Punahela aka Suramba Ella, Warawala.
11. Rikili Ella, Bulathkohupitiya.
12. Nalagana Ella, Dedugala.
13. Rukmal Ella, Dedugala.
14. Diyangiri aka Diyawadana aka Diyawetena Ella, Upper Palampitiya.

Jayawindagama Falls

This is located about 4-5km from Yatiyanthota along Seepoth Road at a village name Jayawindagama. Most would say this is a seasonal cascade. We were lucky to see her due to heavy rains in the area over last couple of weeks. This is right by the road with a height of close to 40+ft. To your left is the Wee Oya Estate and you will be able to see the beautiful Wee Oya Falls in the distance amid the estate.

It’s a very interesting story how the Jayawindagama name came to the village. It was during the presidential election in 1982 when Mr. J. R. Jayawardhana won his second term and MR. R. Premadasa was the Prime Minister. According to a group of elders at the village, this is where they were when the results were released. So they celebrated their victory in this village and the name came about as a result. The village where the victory was celebrated = Jayawindagama.

Sun peering through the trees

Can you see the eagle? He was holding a prey but turned its back to us

Here’s the one

The top of her, not much water.

You can see the Wee Oya falls in the distance

Wee Oya Ella

There are two cascaded falling either side but the one on the right is the most prominent. You can see the one to the left sliding down the estate but when we went to get a closer look she was not a big one but a collection of tiny cascades. Passing Jayawindgama, there’s a left turn that takes you towards the Wee Oya Estate and their factory. We took the road but it’s motorable only up to a km or so. Thereafter the road is damaged at one place with a big drain in the middle and it’d be impossible for a car or even a van to cross it.

Having left our car, we decided to walk along the road which was parallel to the overflowing Wee Oya and after a few hundred meters we came to a bridge that was across the river. From there it’s another 300-400m to the falls and it’s a pleasurable walk. Having reached the base of the falls, we took a lot of pictures of this gorgeous lady. After about half hour, we decided to get back and go on with the rest of the falls.

From the distance

Zoomed in

Wee Oya

Cormorant

Color mixture is great

Little more to go

Lower part

Helpful locals

The bridge across Wee Oya

Gorgeous

Against a royal blue sky

Portrait

Crystals

Going back

Telling us about Jayawindagama

Malalpola Ella

The next in line was the Malalpola Ella that is not a documented one but one named by us in our first journey. She’s falling closer to Malalpola, hence the name, just by the road to your right. Despite the rains, the water levels were not so great. The villagers are using this as one of the bathing places. Well, after a few snaps, it was time to head further up the Seepoth Road looking for Kitul Ella.

Not much water

The top

Bathing point

Portrait

Kitul Ella

Just like the Malalpola Ella, she’s just by the road to your right with a bridge. Similarly, the water levels were not up to my expectations yet I jumped out of the vehicle and took a handful of pictures. From here if you look at the other side, you must be able to see the Gorok Falls in the far. As you go further up the road, you’ll come to Halgolla Tea Factory and passing that, you can get a closer look at her from the road itself.

Looking grand

Gorok Ella in the distance

Kitul Ella

The top

Sliding along

Full package

Punugala Ella aka Anda Dola Ella

Next was Punugala Ella also known as Anda Dola Ella as the water stream it originates is called Anda Dola. There’s a bridge and you can’t miss her. Nevertheless, only the bottom most part is visible to the casual eye. If you get down and looked uphill at the right edge of the bridge, you’ll see the middle part of her sliding through rocky boats. There’s a top most part too for that you will have to walk along the water stream or parallel that. We didn’t bother to do so but when you go past the bridge say another 100-200m along the road; you can see the upper most part from the road itself.

Lower most part

Closer

Mid section, behind these and above there’s another part

Closer

Under the bridge

Water pebbles

The map

Gorok Ella in the distance

Gorok Ella

We carried on towards Halgolla where the tea factory is located to the left of the road. Having stopped for a quick cup of plain tea we went up. About 100m from here you’ll come across to the turn off for Wewelthalawala (read more about it on the link I’ve given of our last visit) to your right. It must be noted that a visit to this place is worth every second and penny. However, I’d advise you keeping a whole day for that as it’s more of a relaxing journey and you shouldn’t rush through it.

Passing the factory, we drove for another 1km or so when we saw the Gorok Ella to our left but so much closer. You can get to the base of the falls and looking down; you’ll see a temple close to the base. This is the Meenagala Road but we didn’t wanna get to the base as the water levels were not overflowing. Not only that, we had many more falls to cover and the time was soon running out for us. Having taken many pictures we carried on towards what we thought the last and the best of the journey, Olu Ella. However, our thoughts proved to be wrong as we found yet another beauty close to Bombepola, before Olu Ella, on our way back.