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Sri de Lakdasun – One Year Anniversary Celebrations amidst Heavy Rains with Angels

Year and Month July, 2013 (07th to 08th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 3 (between 30-38 years of age)
Accommodation Morgan’s Place, Great Western
Transport Night Mail to Great Western, By Bus / Train, On Foot
Activities Photography / Waterfall hunting
Weather Heavy Rains with hardly any Sunlight
Route Colombo Fort -> GW -> Wagatoda -> Pundaluoya -> Talawakele -> Kotagala -> GW -> Talawakele -> St. Claire -> Devon -> Hatton -> Colombo via Avissawella
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Morgan can be contacted on 0770-791002 or0726-032098 (An excellent guide and a host).
  • Train tickets can be booked in advance. (First Class 1750/-; Second 600/-; Third 400/-). Travelling by train is easy but you can’t simply rely on them just like bus service.
  • Normally from May to July, heavy rains are expected in Upcountry. Be mindful before travelling of landslides, flash floods, mist, slippery roads, etc.
  • Raincoats are always better as you can be on the move even through drizzles and carrying umbrellas is not easy with strong winds.
  • Carry plenty of protein on you as it can be a real testing on your stamina.
  • Leeches are gonna be constantly troubling you. So be prepared with leech repellent such as Alum, Dettol, etc.
    Wearing boots will certainly help you rather than slippers.
    Don’t attempt to bathe in streams or rivers as the water levels are gonna increase quickly.
  • Take warm clothes and ear mufflers and plenty of spare socks.
  • Always seek help from the villagers as you might get into trouble. Don’t travel alone or keep any valuables on you.
  • Take plenty of pics but please don’t try to remove plants or flowers and bring them. They certainly look irresistible but you’ll simply destroy the natural beauty if you take them away from their homeland.
  • Garbage is one of the major concerns along with polythene. Bring back everything you take with you and reduce the usage of plastic.
  • Always take extreme care when exploring the unknown. Your safety must come first.
  • Water or some liquids are always welcome through Sun or Rain.
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Happy Birthday to You,
Happy Birthday to You,
Happy Birthday Dear Sri de Lakdasun,
Happy Birthday to You…”

Clap, clap, clap…

-It’s been a year ever since Sri de Lakdasun was born and I wanted to celebrate his first birthday in an unforgettable way. He’s now beginning to stand on his own and even say a few words such as: Waterfall, Hike, Mountain, etc. It’s been so nice watching him grow bit by bit and learn things as the time goes on.

During the last year, he came across so many wonderful nature lovers and learned many things making his learning process speed up big time. So a very big “Thank You” should go to all the members who’ve helped him and given motivational and constructive feedback.

He’d have loved to send you each a piece of cake but it turned out nearly impossible so decided to give you all a treat for your eyes.-

Great Western – This Fairy Land on Earth can’t be a stranger to you, had you read my report “Soldiering onto Greater Hikes – Great Western”. During my first visit there, climbing her amid so many hardships, Harinda and I kept asking Morgan (Our reliable guide) what other options are there for us to see around GW.

He then pointed out Pundaluoya, Nanuoya, Ambewela, Pattipola and Talawakele where they harbor so many waterfalls. I started dreaming about them ever since. After our Balangoda journey, I was very keen to go see some more waterfalls coz Kalthota Doovili Ella and Diyawini Ella aroused my penchant for waterfalls.

Unfortunately Harinda timely decided to join forces with his new job and missed out. It left only Kumaraya and I decided to take him on board coz he really is a “Jolly Baduwak” (according to Tony). The incessant rains kept me worried all along coz didn’t wanna risk getting my plans washed out to downpours.

“Stop worrying Sri, you can’t do anything about the weather. But you certainly can do something about your trip and plans”. That’s my inner self trying hard to console me. Coz all I could do was playing the devil’s advocate.

Finally I decided to do it regardless of the weather and fixed the date for Sat 06 July. To make matters worse, the night mail was fully booked on the 5th night and I had to settle for the second best, which was 06th night making the exploration on 07 July. Bad sign and I could feel the pins and needles returning. However, Prince was confident that we could do it and as I’d always boasted, the rain had nearly always taken very kindly towards me. So the odds were looking pretty good but when I called Morgan he felt otherwise. He warned us to be ready for rain and getting wet which fell in deaf ears. I left for Fort station on 06th evening and Morgan suddenly called and said to bring an umbrella with us. I had to call Prince and get him bring one instead.

To our horror, the railway cafeteria was closed due to some tender issues and we were left with nothing to have for dinner but a packet of Hawaiian cookies and some water. As beggars can’t be choosers, we decided to have as much water as possible and try to kip down. The journey was uneventful except for “Kumarayage Agiya Katha” which is very familiar to our Moon Walkers. This time I was the prey coz there was no one for him to say all his stories and I had to listen to the modern version of “Arabian Nights (One Thousand and One Nights”. I’m seriously beginning to wonder if he might be the reincarnation of that person who said all those stories.

Mercifully on and off he fell asleep leaving me enough time to dream about my pretty waterfalls. Around 2.00am Morgan got into the train (he was selling coffee for the night travelers) at Hatton.

We reached GW around 2.55am (about 10mins late. What an achievement for those battered engines and wagons) and left for Morgan’s house about 1km away from the station to wait till morning. His wife very kindly offered some hot tea and we drank gleefully and got our heads down for the remainder of the night.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Short Rail Hike at GW
  2. Dansinane and Sheen falls, Pundaluoya
  3. St. Claire falls, Pathana, Talawakele
  4. Devon falls, Talawakele

Morning brought showers and winds making it near impossible to get out of the house. The mist covered the GW Mountain completely and I knew we were in trouble.

Rail Hike at GW

However, after a cold bath, Morgan took us on a short rail hike towards the Mountain Trek in the rain till his wife prepared our breakfast. There were many tiny cascaded coming down from the GW Mountain due to the rain for the past one and half months.

The walk was not too bad as we had our umbrellas with us while Prince in his waterproof jacket was continuously on the lookout for leeches. GW Mountain was serenely looking down on us as if to recall our hike a while back. However she chose not to show herself (must be because Kumaraya was there) covering with her misty shawl.

To my amazement, we saw railway workers coming towards GW in an over flowing rail cart (Dakkuwa) even though it was a Sunday. We walked for about an hour before heading back to Morgan’s for breakfast. His wife served us hot, hot rice and curry with Coconut Sambol and gave us a pack of Roti and Luni Miris for lunch.

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There's the Lady Great Western

There’s the Lady Great Western

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Back again less than 2 months

Back again less than 2 months

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Tiny cascade coming down GW mountain

Tiny cascade coming down GW mountain

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Main communication compartment along the railway

Main communication compartment along the railway

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Deadly slippery with oil mixed with water

Deadly slippery with oil mixed with water

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Bamboo gates still in place

Bamboo gates still in place

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There comes the workers merrily

There comes the workers merrily

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She cleared herself just enough for me to take a pic while Kumaraya was looking elsewhere

She cleared herself just enough for me to take a pic while Kumaraya was looking elsewhere

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Kumaraya and Morgan leading the way. (Can you see Kumaraya checking his leg for leeches)

Kumaraya and Morgan leading the way. (Can you see Kumaraya checking his leg for leeches)

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Gonna fix the track with more stones

Gonna fix the track with more stones

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That rope looks strong enough to pull a whole train

That rope looks strong enough to pull a whole train

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Green everywhere... what a soothing effect on my eyes

Green everywhere… what a soothing effect on my eyes

Dansinane and Sheen falls, Pundaluoya

However, the rain spoiled my initial plan of doing a rail hike from GW to Watagoda. Instead we decided to take the Colombo bound train to Watagoda then take a bus to Pundaluoya. When we got off at Watagoda, there was a gang of kids who were very curious about my constant snapping at everything and I decided to take pic of them and put them out of their misery.

Morgan got them to stand and smile while I took a pic and had to show each and every one. They all were mesmerized to see themselves on my camera screen and made some unintelligible sounds. We saw Prince running to a nearby shop and coming with a tub of Siddhalepa for leeches. That fella is seriously suffering from Leechophobia. He was busily applying Siddhalepa everywhere even on his boots, I was trying my best not to laugh at him.

We caught a CTB bus and were on our way in no time. The road was curvy with hair pin bends and kept getting narrower making it very difficult for two vehicles to pass each other. One the left hand, it was about 300ft deep ravine while on the right hand it was the menacingly looking rocky wall. It’s a bit of an adventure full of anxious feelings as to what lays ahead.

We came across many seasonal cascades along the way but as usual the driver wouldn’t look at me knowing what’s in my head. I had to restraint myself to the seat not to get up and jump from the bus. Wish I could walk all the way there or had my own vehicle.

Having reached Pundaluoya, we started to walk on N’Eliya road as there were no buses. About 600-800m from the town, the road folks in two and there’s a sign board with an arrow pointing towards the road on the left which goes uphill and we too that. However I wanted to check with someone and he pointed the lower road and when we went down about 100m, there was a garage. To be doubly sure, we asked them and they pointed the upper road which we had taken initially according to the arrow. I was getting so worked up.

It started to rain cats and dogs, in between an elephant or two, and we soon sought shelter at a nearby hardware shop. From there we could see the top of the mountain and a tiny cascade (which turned out to be the very top of Sheen falls). When the rain stopped after about 20 mins we hurried uphill and soon saw twin falls falling either side parallel to each other. When inquired from a conductor of a Pundaluoya-Nuwaraeliya bus, he said the first fall (on your left hand side) is the Sheen falls and the other Dunsinane falls.

The view was breath taking from the road amid tea plantations and it was like a scene from heaven. There was no sign showing a path towards the falls even though you can clearly see them from the main road just like St. Claire from Hatton-Talawakele road. However, the rain and the mist kept it very difficult to get a clear pic so I decided to walk through the tea plantation towards the falls. This was about 1.5-2km from the junction when you meet a bridge. Just next to that on your left hand side the path is seen. The leeches started attacking us and Prince kept running and brushing like a Madman and it was hilarious to watch him like that.

I completely shut myself from outside distractions, completely concentrating on the waterfalls and taking some good shots. Leeches troubled me less and I went about 200m towards the river which flows at the end of the tea plantation. Then it was time to run back onto the safety of the tarred road. When we reached the road, couple of villagers was passing by and they said there’s the actual path lies further up next to another bridge. They also warned the path is infested with hundreds of leeches and Prince wouldn’t hear any of my appeals to venture into that one.

There were no buses to get back to the town so we thought of walking further up and getting more pic opportunities, but rain kept pelting down on us like stones on a roofing sheet. We came to a shed where there’s a cemetery and the hut is used to keep the coffin till the religious ceremonies are over. We had no choice but to wait there to stay away from rain and adjoining it was a hut where they bring and weigh the tea leaves but the roof was leaking like a sieve.

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I can't leave them alone

I can’t leave them alone

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She dropped us off and heading to Colombo...

She dropped us off and heading to Colombo…

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The bunch of kids who wanted to pose for a pic

The bunch of kids who wanted to pose for a pic

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He wasn't crossing the road along yellow stripes, but playing with me

He wasn’t crossing the road along yellow stripes, but playing with me

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The Junction where the road folks into two....

The Junction where the road folks into two….

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The board just before the bridge where we took our own foot path

The board just before the bridge where we took our own foot path

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Walking through the paradise

Walking through the paradise

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Morgan pointing towards the foot path

Morgan pointing towards the foot path

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Mist stubbornly hung there

Mist stubbornly hung there

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On the left - Dunsinane; on the right - Sheen

On the left – Dunsinane; on the right – Sheen

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We jumped into the estate and the bridge is barely seen

We jumped into the estate and the bridge is barely seen

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Walking through the tea brushing leeches

Walking through the tea brushing leeches

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Wanted to see more water though

Wanted to see more water though

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She is the more beautiful one

She is the more beautiful one

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Would've been better if we could get closer

Would’ve been better if we could get closer

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You can't imagine the commotion behind me Prince was making

You can’t imagine the commotion behind me Prince was making

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The cemetery which sheltered us from the rain

The cemetery which sheltered us from the rain

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This is way into the top of the mountain and can you see the house on the bottom right hand corner? Wonder how they carried all the stuff

This is way into the top of the mountain and can you see the house on the bottom right hand corner? Wonder how they carried all the stuff

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Train captured on our way to Talawakele

Train captured on our way to Talawakele

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Kotagala station (I was down and sad coz we couldn’t see St. Claire and Devon)

Kotagala station (I was down and sad coz we couldn’t see St. Claire and Devon)

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Signal room... Entering is prohibited but for a pic, no problem

Signal room… Entering is prohibited but for a pic, no problem

Fortunately, there was a tuk-tuk with one fellow in it but the driver agreed to drop us at the town and took only 50/- coz he hardly had to use petrol coz of the downhill journey. Morgan kept referring to it as “Govt Gear” which costs you nothing. Back at the town around 12.30pm, there were no buses to Talawakele and we had to wait 1 hour for a bus and it stayed there another 45mins before leaving wasting nearly two precious hours of our exploring time. Yuck, yuck, yucky…

When we were nearing the Talawakele town, I suddenly saw a huge waterfall gushing many million gallons of water and Morgan said it was the Devon Falls. Oh my goodness, so much water and I felt very happy inside knowing she was our next destination. It took forever to reach the town and I kept craning out of the window to get a better view of her.

Having reached the town around 3.30pm, we got into a Hatton bus in the hope of getting down at Pathana where Devon falls is located. We hardly started our journey when the mother of all rains came crashing down and I felt as if all hell broke loose. It was raining so hard and you couldn’t see more than a few feet in front of you and the construction work on the Hatton-Nanu Oya road kept us at a touch better than a Snail’s speed. Yucky, yucky, yucky….

As we were passing St. Claire, I saw this huge lady, almost bursting at the seams (there were two sluice gates open from the upper Kotmale dam – damn it) flowing so beautifully and I felt like jumping out of the bus. The rain kept me well inside the bus and made it very difficult to see her any more. The whole area got darker by the minute and when we reached around Devon Falls, there was nothing but thick, inky black mist and torrential rain. I had to make up my mind coz the rain wasn’t about to stop and we decided to go up to Kotagala and get into the train so that we could go to Morgan’s by 07.00pm.

The train journey was so miserable as I was crying inside coz I couldn’t see my beloved St. Claire up close. Gosh, everything looked so dark and without nothing to look forward. Prince kept consoling my saying that we could always come back later but I was so disappointed. This was meant to be some unforgettable journey coz I was celebrating my one-year anniversary of joining Lakdasun and it all seemed far away. On the way from Watagoda, I saw my beloved St. Claire again, the rains had eased somewhat and she was smiling up at me beckoning but I was so helpless. I managed to shoot a short video which I don’t think in super quality but towards the end of its 30 seconds, you can see St. Claire at full flow.

We reached Morgan’s house around 07.00pm and after a quick icy cold wash, tried to catch on some sleep coz we had the train at 10.30pm from GW. I heard Morgan making a call to check if the train is getting late (coz he’s selling coffee at the night mail) and I heard him saying “Cancelled”.

“What’s cancelled” – I shouted from under the covers.
“The railway is on strike so no night mail” – replied Morgan.
I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. This was crazy coz I had a very important training on Mon morning and had to be back in office by 9.30am.

The news confirmed the strike and we could do nothing but have dinner and sleep till morning. But my mind was in overdrive making plans.
“Has St. Claire had a hand in the whole thing so that we could meet up the following day?” – I was hopeful again. I felt like a boy who’s just lost the chance to meet his girlfriend but given another opportunity.

“Hurraahhhhhhhhh, St. Claire, I’m coming to see you tomorrow and you better clear those skies of rain like you managed to get the railway out of action, making me stranded”.
Little did I know that she actually understood what I had in my mind?

Walking up to Talawakele through GW Estate

We got up in the morning around 07.00am (I had to practically kick Prince to wake him up) and the sky was a horrible affair.

“Rain, rain go away – come again another day
Little Sri wants to play”

I was reinventing the poems and tried to remain cheerful about the prospect of what laid ahead. We washed and had breakfast and waited and waited impatiently for the skies to clear. By 10.00am I had had enough and decided to go no matter what happened. Having bid our farewell to Morgan’s wife and his two sons (Kishan – 3yrs and Nirojan – 9yrs) left for Talawakele in heavy rains.

We had to walk a long way coz there was no way of getting a tuk-tuk or any other way to get to the town. It took us nearly an hour to reach the Talawakele town and the rain had eased and we got into a bus and took tickets for St. Claire.

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Morgan and his little playful son Kishan

Morgan and his little playful son Kishan

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Gas Thakkali (Tomato grown on trees)

Gas Thakkali (Tomato grown on trees)

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Can't agree more... they are using organic stuff most of the places

Can’t agree more… they are using organic stuff most of the places

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The birds and animals can be seen at GW

The birds and animals can be seen at GW – Click Image to Enlarge

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The road is muddy and badly in need of repair

The road is muddy and badly in need of repair

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Can't make up my mind to leave just yet

Can’t make up my mind to leave just yet

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I'm also promoting these kinda work... they're collecting organic waste in an eco-friendly way

I’m also promoting these kinda work… they’re collecting organic waste in an eco-friendly way

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Tea... so many different kinds are there

Tea… so many different kinds are there

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Would've loved to spend a few days at the house in the middle

Would’ve loved to spend a few days at the house in the middle

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She simply won't let me go

She simply won’t let me go

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Flowery things kept me busy

Flowery things kept me busy

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They certainly have realized the importance of getting rid of those pesticides and chemicals

They certainly have realized the importance of getting rid of those pesticides and chemicals

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Ready to have juicy guava breakfast

Ready to have juicy guava breakfast

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Not really sure what this is or even it's in use now... nobody was around to ask

Not really sure what this is or even it’s in use now… nobody was around to ask

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Rain or shine, they gotta work if they wanna feed their families...

Rain or shine, they gotta work if they wanna feed their families…

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Must've gone for a cuppa tea

Must’ve gone for a cuppa tea

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Hmmmm.... interesting.... but they've been abandoned due to rain

Hmmmm…. interesting…. but they’ve been abandoned due to rain

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Can you see any difference?

Can you see any difference?

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That is the Holy rood estate

That is the Holy rood estate

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Was too far away for me to reach... there was no stone or stick nearby either

Was too far away for me to reach… there was no stone or stick nearby either

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Damn dam which nearly strangled and killed my St. Claire

Damn dam which nearly strangled and killed my St. Claire

St. Claire falls, Talawakele

We reached the first viewing area and I jumped from the bus closely followed by Morgan and Prince and whoooooaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was horror stricken. Despite so much rain, those wicked people had decided to close the sluice gates of the dam and she was nothing but a small trickle coming down along the rock wall. There was hardly one fifth of what she was yesterday and my heart sank.

But she kept the skies clear and we started our descent towards her downhill. Kumaraya was very reluctant but had to follow us and kept running and checking and running again as if million ghosts are after his blood.

She was looking very lovable and I felt like hugging her. Gosh I wish they had kept the gates open for another few hours. Unfortunately she couldn’t control the minds of those wicked people but the nature which kept rains away from us.

After about 200m downhill, we could go no further and after about half an hour later decided to double back and hit the road for Devon Falls. Once back on the road there was this platform which is nearly finished but apparently not open for public as yet. Couple of pics later, we got into the bus, still removing leeches from my socks and got off at the Devon viewing platform.

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What to do? Those evil people nearly made you dried up

What to do? Those evil people nearly made you dried up

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Yesterday she was jumping clean over these rocks

Yesterday she was jumping clean over these rocks

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Could see no rock on our way back yesterday

Could see no rock on our way back yesterday

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Camera doing its own artwork

Camera doing its own artwork

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The viewing platform nearly finished

The viewing platform nearly finished

Devon Falls, Pathana, Thalawakele

There was this old uncle who’s drawing pics mainly of Devon and St. Claire and sell to tourists. (1000/- for foreigners and 500/- for locals). Unfortunately couldn’t catch his name but he’s been there for the past 8 years making a living out of those two playful girls. Wow… that’s all I could think of coz she was overflowing like a young lady playing without a care in the world. So pretty and cute.

Just opposite was the very famous and popular St. Claire tea shop which sells some exotic tea to tourists, especially foreigners. It as a very intimate place for a cup of tea and a piece of chocolate cake (Plain tea – 40/-; milk tea – 65/-; choco cake – 75/-, etc.)

Having had our brew, we asked those nice ladies (real ones not waterfalls, don’t misunderstand) to show us some very rare kinds of tea. She showed us Golden tea, Silver tea and Lemon tea which all costs at the range of 30,000/- to 40,000/- per 1kg. They even let us smell it and the aroma was reviving. Having said our thanks to them we came back and rain welcomed us with in style.

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Opposite Devon falls platform

Opposite Devon falls platform

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Thought of warming our bodies with hot cuppa

Thought of warming our bodies with hot cuppa

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The Artist who's been there 8 years at work even amid heavy rains so that he can look after his family

The Artist who’s been there 8 years at work even amid heavy rains so that he can look after his family

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Devon is also on his canvas

Devon is also on his canvas

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Hope you can read it

Hope you can read it – Click Image to Enlarge

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The Premiere collection of tea... very expensive

The Premiere collection of tea… very expensive

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From top left via bottom to the top right: Golden Tea, Silver Tea, and Lemon Tea

From top left via bottom to the top right: Golden Tea, Silver Tea, and Lemon Tea

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Got a big collection for a range of prices

Got a big collection for a range of prices

Morgan said not to stop but to keep walking towards the Kovil where you can get down to take a very closer look of Devon.

Go further towards Hatton about 1.5-2km passing Mlesna Tea Castle which you can’t miss and passing that for another 400m you come across the Kovil on your right hand side just before the road folks into two (downhill towards Nawalapitiya and the left uphill towards Hatton). Enter through the Kovil and there are steps built and you have to walk about 800m to the Kovil and viewing platform.

On the way we came across many monkeys, most notable one was the monkey family sitting on the barrier with their kids cuddling onto them waiting for someone to give some food. It was very warming to see how the parents (human or animal) look after their kids with so much care and love.

They’d built concrete steps right up to the Kovil at the platform. It’s made getting there about 600-800m fairly easy. You should’ve seen Prince’s face, smiling from left year to right year. I was very thankful for anyone who built the Kovil there as it has kept all these money-greedy environmental-destroyers away. May long that tradition continue keeping that Waterfall and the surrounding mountains safe.

The view was breath taking and unlike St. Claire, this girlie was in full flow making a huge roar as if to welcome us into her domain. She looked as if a thick silk Saree flowing effortlessly. You gotta see her with your own eyes coz no matter however much I try to describe the beauty of the situation, it won’t anything be like seeing it with your own eyes and getting the feel of the place.

I managed to get a couple of videos of her which are given below. Video 1, Video 2

I felt all my worries vanish into thin air and silently thanked the railway people for striking and Mother Nature for giving us clear skies just about to see my gorgeous angels.
So the tables were turned and I was in a real happy mood feeling like ten feet tall. So my first ever anniversary really was a memorable one.

After that we left for Hatton and took a bus to Avissawella as Colombo ones were a bit late. Surprisingly, you can see so many cascades from Hatton to Ginigathhena on your right hand side coming down with so much water. I made a mental note to explore that area in the near future. Most of them I guess are just the seasonal ones active only in heavy rainy season.

So folks, that’s the end of my fairy tale. I was virtually spirited away by my beloved St. Claire to a fairy land.
I do hope you enjoyed reading and the pics were a treat for your eyes.
Thank you everyone for your feedback so far and hopefully this one-year old infant will grow into a healthy and stronger fella.

Take care….

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Oops... what a contrast compared to nearly dried up St. Claire

Oops… what a contrast compared to nearly dried up St. Claire

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The rain and mist blocked our view

The rain and mist blocked our view

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Walking towards the Kovil along Hatton road

Walking towards the Kovil along Hatton road

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She kept popping on and off

She kept popping on and off

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The trees tried to hide her from prying eyes

The trees tried to hide her from prying eyes

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The monkey family.... noticed the spiky hair like a Football star

The monkey family…. noticed the spiky hair like a Football star

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The monkey gang and can you see the leader in the middle with a stern look

The monkey gang and can you see the leader in the middle with a stern look

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Getting closer to the Kovil but waited here and there to grab all the pics possible

Getting closer to the Kovil but waited here and there to grab all the pics possible

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Prince was a good photographer too

Prince was a good photographer too

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The water was fiercely coming down

The water was fiercely coming down

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It was hitting at a ferocious pace

It was hitting at a ferocious pace

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Land Mark - Mlesna Tea Castle

Land Mark – Mlesna Tea Castle

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This is next to the "SriPada Academy" about 200m before the Kovil Entrance

This is next to the “SriPada Academy” about 200m before the Kovil Entrance

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Morgan showing the entrance with his umbrella

Morgan showing the entrance with his umbrella

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Thankfully they had built those steps.... Prince was smiling coz no leech attacks

Thankfully they had built those steps…. Prince was smiling coz no leech attacks

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Looks like a mushroom... but not sure

Looks like a mushroom… but not sure

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Funny thing... looks like the bottom rock is keeping the top one in place

Funny thing… looks like the bottom rock is keeping the top one in place

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Trying to pierce the tree cover

Trying to pierce the tree cover

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Mountains far away... all nice and lush green

Mountains far away… all nice and lush green

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The full version with the bottom is also visible

The full version with the bottom is also visible

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Morgan doing the rituals...

Morgan doing the rituals…

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Artistic impression by my camera...

Artistic impression by my camera…

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Tiny structure visible at the bottom right hand corner... there are steps to it about 10m away

Tiny structure visible at the bottom right hand corner… there are steps to it about 10m away

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The middle where the fall separates into two

The middle where the fall separates into two

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The Kovil is built under this tree in a cave

The Kovil is built under this tree in a cave

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Parting glance..... gonna miss you big time

Parting glance….. gonna miss you big time

 


Leopard Safari

Year and Month June, 2013
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 5 (between 30 – 40 years of age)
Accommodation Camping
Transport By car to the entrance & safari jeep inside the park
Activities Safari / Photography / Wild Life / Camping
Weather Windy, Occasional rain
Route Colombo-> Puttlum -> Wilpattu and return on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take water, no matter where you go. Take more water since there is no water available inside the park.li>
  • Adhere to the rules inside the park. Always keep in mind that we are visitors in their habitat. Always try to not to disturb their behavior.
  • Many have complained that they haven’t seen any wildlife inside parks, don’t expect them to be there at the entrance, it is their habitat and they could be anywhere. Roads are on very limited space so wildlife encounters inside the park is depend almost on pure luck. No point in rushing drivers or trackers. Always be watchful, even you could spot them if you do. If you want to see each and every one of them, you can visit National Zoological Garden at Dehiwala.
  • Recommended if you can stay inside the park, since it is quite far from entrance to Villus’ where you can see more wildlife. Book camp sites or bungalows prior to visit.
  • Contact Senevi for Safari Jeeps (0725562117) but spare him for us Image may be NSFW.
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    :-)
  • Mr. Jayawardana, a great well experienced tracker in wilpattu. (Only if you really enjoy wildlife, not for FUN) (0728645431)
  • More eye catching moments on Flicker
Author Danushka Colors of Sri Lanka (9thstarimages.blogspot.com)
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It has been few days after we met at Cargills, I received a call from Sujeewa with an invitation for a trip to Wilpattu National Park on the following weekend which I could not resist. There was an uncertainty in my mind about the trip due to the weather condition when I receive second confirmation call from him just two days before the event. I didn’t want to make a fuss about the weather, so everything was arranged and scheduled to start on Friday night.

It was around 12.45 AM, when Sujeewa, Harsha and Pujitha came to my place. We started again just after everything loaded. Our last crew member Aravinda was waiting for us in Chilaw. Wind was heavy and sometimes it rained a lot though we had no clue what was going on. We reached Aravindas’ place with minor difficulties on the road (Few trees were fallen in to the Negombo road). When we got down at Aravindas place, we noticed the strength of the blowing wind. Even undergrowth was bent due to the strong wind. After enjoying refreshment from Aravindas’ place got everything packed and back on the road to Wilpattu.

We have reached Senevis – Our good old jeep owner – place around 5:30 AM as expected. After shifting load from Car to Jeep, it was time to start safari with a drizzle surrounding us. Soon it started to rain and the disappointment was all over our faces though the spirit was still holding on. We had to spend almost 45 minutes in front of the park office to get a tracker. It was Mr. Jayawardana, an old fellow which bought us kind of more disappointment due to bad experience we had before with old chaps. However, a moment later we managed to start our journey and were heading toward the park entrance.

First wildlife sighting was a Barking Deer which are commonly seen in the first scratch of the park entrance. They are very shy and quick. There was no trace of it before I could put my hand on the camera.

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A Gray Heron looking for breakfast

A Gray Heron looking for breakfast

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Roads inside Wilpattu National Park

Roads inside Wilpattu National Park

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Malabar Hornbills (male & female)

Malabar Hornbills (male & female)

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They have left only footprints

They have left only footprints

We had to come to the resting place of the park which is Kumbuk Wila, to have our breakfast without many sightings. Effort to keep the place clean by the Friends of Wilpattu seems working; the place was much cleaner than before. I m sorry I could not take any photographs of the place to share with you all.

It was just before finishing out breakfast with Pujithas’ genuine fish Abul Thiyal, we received an information about a sighting at Kuruttupandi. Our tracker wanted to give it a try so we got back in to the jeep. There were no signs of wildlife when we first got there but the keen eye of Senevi has spotted a leopard on the far side bank. Shortly it has disappeared in to the forest.

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Leopard on the far side bank of the Kuruttupandi Villu

Leopard on the far side bank of the Kuruttupandi Villu

We decided to cycle around the place hoping it will come to the road & we were lucky!

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It was coming straight at us

It was coming straight at us

It went pass us and went in to the wood so that we went toward Panikkar Villu. Panikkar Villu was making glorious landscapes with Kokmota and the purple flower – which I don’t know the name – bloomed. I always wanted to shoot something in between them. Lucky one was a Black Headed Ibis.

It was getting late and started to rain again so we decided to go to the camp site and prepare lunch. It was around three in the evening when we started our second session of the day after a delicious lunch prepared mainly by Aravinda with our side supports.

For the third time of the day we saw the same leopard few yards away from the place we saw it in the morning. This time it was inside the forest patch. We spent long time with it and fed up.

It was time to head back to the camp site. On our way back we saw our fourth leopard sighting of the day.

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Here I am… Catch me if you can..

Here I am… Catch me if you can..

It was a chilly night at the camp. We gathered around a camp fire for the dinner and had a long chat together. Mr. Jayawardhana shared his experience with us and how those old rangers work hard to keep wildlife parks in the state we see them today. Finally leaving all our disappointments, he has become a great assert to our trip and who is a walking library about Wilpattu National Park. There was no road he hasn’t been on the foot in Wilpattu.

We were supposed to wake up at five in the morning to prepare Kiribath for the breakfast. Busy morning schedule kept us at the camp site longer than we expected. Finally we managed to pack Kiribath and Lunumiris and started morning session around 6.30. The leopard which we saw previous evening was at the same place again.

Not far from the leopard sight we saw this peafowl making beautiful scenery on a villu ground.

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Attractive… (Indian Peafowl)

Attractive… (Indian Peafowl)

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I love those backgrounds (Indian Peafowl)

I love those backgrounds (Indian Peafowl)

We have seen few Kingfishers at Nelumvila, I was only interested of capturing the Common Kingfisher. There were few Wooly necked Storks, who made no interest in my mind. However, on the way to Panikkar Vllu we saw a lizard that I haven’t seen before (Thanks to Vattern photographer Mr. Keerthi who has spotted and photographing it).

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The common but not so common (Common Kingfisher)

The common but not so common (Common Kingfisher)

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I m not a lizard expert. Can someone help us here?

I m not a lizard expert. Can someone help us here?

There was nothing much in Panikkar Villu or Thalawila area. The bird life was significantly low. On the way back to the camp site we saw three jackals, only two were captured.

At the camp site, while others were busy in preparing lunch I escaped to look around to find some macros.

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A beautiful flower much like Bovitiya

A beautiful flower much like Bovitiya

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A Monkey Puzzle after a long time

A Monkey Puzzle after a long time

After having noodles for the lunch, we cleaned up the camp site and packed everything back to the jeep. From the start of our evening it was giving us opportunities. Not many but more than enough. There was a Hawk Eagle flying among trees with a pray and a Brown Fish Owl.

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A Hawk Eagle with its pray (looks like a Junglefowl)

A Hawk Eagle with its pray (looks like a Junglefowl)

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Brown Fish Owl (remind me a sense from the Legend of the Guardians)

Brown Fish Owl (remind me a sense from the Legend of the Guardians)

We were following a Sea Eagle when we came across the final leopard of the day at Kudapathessa. We spent almost the whole evening with him.

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Finally you guys came to see me

Finally you guys came to see me

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I can spend some time performing to you

I can spend some time performing to you

Finally we decided to leave the leopard alone and try to find a bear around Maradamaduwa. There were no bear sightings but this proud looking Serpent Eagle was on a try by the road.

Just before we reached the main gate, two huge elephants were come from the wood and they were blocking our path. They spent about 45 minutes blocking our way out. It was around 7 PM when they left the road in to the wood so that we could get out of the park.

We thanked our tracker and the safari jeep owner and left Wilpattu with lot of exiting memories.

Thanks for reading.

A Three Day Trip to Lunugamvehera National Park

Year and Month July, 2013
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 7 (between 38-77 years of age)
Accommodation Weheragala Bungalowhttp://www.dwc.gov.lk/library/veheragala_bangalow.html)
Transport Toyota Hilux 4WD & KIA Sorento
Activities Photography / Wild Life / Relaxing
Weather Fine weather, Clear Sky
Route Colombo -> Kottawa -> Expressway to Panadura Exit -> Kiriella -> Ratnapura -> Palmadulla -> Kahawatta -> Kolombageara -> Udawalava -> Tanamalvilla -> Lunugamvehera and return on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Bungalows should be reserved in advance from the department of Wildlife
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water at least for drinking purposed.
  • Take some mosquito replant or coils
  • All food provisions to be taken and the bungalow keeper/cook will do the needful.
  • There is a Generator at the bungalow and the keeper will switched it on if requested (this will be useful to charge cam batteries and phones)
Author Prasanga
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

About 2 weeks ago my friend Yasa invited me to join for a trip to Lunugamvehera NP as he has planned a trip to go with some of his relations and friend from 5th July till 7th July.

Usually when Yasa invites me for these kinds of trips, I somehow managed to join him keeping aside all my busy schedules.

Since he was planning to leave Colombo bit early, he asked me and one of our friend to stay overnight at his place.We started our journey from Palawatta, Battaramulla at about 4.30 in the morning on Friday the 5th The crew was three on his KIA Sorento (me, Yasa and our good old pal Upali) and his brother (Lakshman) joined us at the Kottawa Express-way entrance on his Toyota Hilux 4WD with 2 of our friends (Prasanna & Romesh) and uncle Yasa mama. Both vehicles were packed with rations and goods for two night stay.

We arrived in Kolombageara around 8.00 am and had a good breakfast and drove straight to Tanamalvilla via Udawalawa. On our way we did some shopping for Veggies and fruits from the road-side shops.

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Yum…..yum…….. Breakfast

Yum…..yum…….. Breakfast
(String hoppers, Bread, fish curry, dhal, pollsambol & potato curry)

Around 10.00am we reached Tanamalvilla junction and had to ask directions to the park from few guys as it was our first trip to Lunugamvehera NP and no one knew how to get to the park office.

We came to the park office within very short time since it was an about 1Km towards Lunugamvehera from Tanamalvilla town.

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Map of Lunugamvehera National Park. (Veheragala Bungalow inside the red circle)

Map of Lunugamvehera National Park. (Veheragala Bungalow inside the red circle)

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Kalu Paalama on Kirindi oya at the Entrance

Kalu Paalama on Kirindi oya at the Entrance

The Veheragala bungalow is built on the bunt of Veheragala Reservoir and is very closed to the east boundary of the park and Sella-Katharagama so our tracker Dinesh suggest us that he will take us through another road to go to the bungalow without crossing the “Kalu Paalama” as that road has not been used for quite some time. So we had to travel about 6Km towards Wellavaya on the main road to enter to this road. (This road was the earlier access road to Wild Elephant Re-habilitation area).

It was about 18 -20 Km’s from the turn-off on Tanamalvilla – Wellawaya main road to the Veheragala Bungalow through this road and was going by the side of the main canal from Veheragala Tank to Lunugamvehera Tank.

It took almost 2 hours to cover this stretch.

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Tank & bunt…….. From the bungalow (building on the right is the work office and quarters of the Reservoir maintenance staff of Dept. of Irrigation)

Tank & bunt…….. From the bungalow (building on the right is the work office and quarters of the Reservoir maintenance staff of Dept. of Irrigation)

Since it was mid day we didn’t see much of animals on our way to the bungalow. Around 1.30pm we reached the bungalow and had to change our meal plan from Rice & Curry to Bread and Chicken Curry taken from Colombo (cooked and deep-freeze) as we couldn’t wait till rice gets cooked.

There was a heavy breeze from the tank side and after lunch most of the guys took a quick nap till around 3.30pm for our 1st park round.

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At around 3.30pm we set out for our 1st park round and drove along the same canal road as there are only few roads within the park. There we saw many White bellied sea eagles, Serpent eagles, Hawk and Crested Hawk eagles.

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Also there were lots of water birds too……

Also there were lots of water birds too……

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We saw few lone elephants but they were very scared of vehicles and people and no sooner they see us runs to the tick jungle.

We reached the Bungalow at around 6.30pm and had a quick dip in the canal and had some bottled refreshments and had a chit-chat till the dinner was ready.

I got up bit early the next day to ask the bungalow keeper to make some tea before the morning round and saw a lone bull elephant just loafing around on the bunt right in front of the bungalow.

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image037

I quickly woke-up the rest of the guys to show the elephant since it was the only elephant we saw and was not scared to people.

There we took some good shots of the sun-rise.

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After morning tea we set out for the morning round and started from the bunt side towards Veheragala ruins

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Same bull elephant from the bottom of the bunt

Same bull elephant from the bottom of the bunt

We reached the bungalow at around 9.30 am and had breakfast and had a chit-chat till lunch and few of us went towards the spill-way which joins Manik ganga looking for good photo opportunities.

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Mini water fall and erosion on the spill-way

Mini water fall and erosion on the spill-way

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A serpent eagle waiting patiently……..

A serpent eagle waiting patiently……..

As part of our crowd (Lakshman, Yasa mama and Romesh) was leaving to Colombo the same afternoon we start our evening round bit early since we had to come to the main entrance to drop them off.

On our way to the main entrance, we saw this beautiful fishing owl and some other birds of pray

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After saying goodbye to our friends we drove back to the bungalow for our last night and saw the first herd of elephants. There was about 12-15 elephants with a newly born. But couldn’t capture a clear shot as it was bit dark and didn’t want to use flash.

Some of the photographs taken during the trip

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Painted Stork planning for the night

Painted Stork planning for the night

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Veheragala Reservoir from the Bungalow

Veheragala Reservoir from the Bungalow

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Malabar pied Hornbill…….. Night park……

Malabar pied Hornbill…….. Night park……

The night passed with a pack of cards and some refreshments and since it was our last night the four of us had a long chit-chat till bit late in the night.

The next day morning round was our last leg of the trip and did a quick round and left the park around 9.30 am and reached Colombo 2.00 pm after stopping for tea and lunch.

Thank you for reading

 

Kalpitiya Dutch Fort and Thonigala

Year and Month May, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 4 Adults
Accommodation Not Required
Transport Car
Weather Heavy rains throughout the trip
Route Colombo –> Negombo –> Kalpitiya and back.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It was a rush trip to pave way to a more planned trip
Author Christy
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Last year, my friend from Australia compelled us to run through Trincomalee on a rush trip with his family. My trip report too was equally a rushed one!!!

This time he came alone and suddenly demanded a trip to Kalpitiya, just to enjoy the bio diversity!!!!. I had time only to arrange an approval from Sri Lankan Navy to visit the Dutch Fort.

We started around 4.00 am from Maharagama. It was raining cats and dogs and motoring was virtually difficult.

By the time we reached the extended arm of the island, it was morning and the weather was not that promising. However we were able to go to coal power plant of Norochcholei and got down in front.

The area is scattered with wind power generators which is a very pleasant scenery for any green person, especially in the vicinity of a coal plant.

However the giant(Coal power plant) was sleeping when we were there. No activities at all. A friendly navy person with a high sense of humor commented “ It is always sleeping and once in a while gets up to send out smokes to say it is still alive”.

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SLEEPING GIANT OF NOROCHCHOLE

SLEEPING GIANT OF NOROCHCHOLE

With the approval of Navy, we stayed half an hour in the beach and proceeded to our next destination.

PART 2

St. Anne’s Church of Thalawila itself is a one day trip. However by the time we reached it, the rain was pelting and we could not even get down from the car. We stayed in the car for some time and no sooner the rain stopped for a short spell, visited the place in a rush.

Following is extracted from internet about the church.

“The Thalawila church has a long history and once account says that a European Trader travelling in a ship dedicated to St. Anne, was shipwrecked off the coast of Thalawila in the 18th century and found the church following success in business after placing a vow at this place. The other account says that in the 17th century a Portuguese man travelling from Mannar to Colombo slept at a tree in Thalawila and dreamt seeing St. Anne’s statue at the foot of tree, and when he awoke from the dream the statue was physically there as he dreamt.”

PART 3
From Thalawila, we drove direct to the Dutch Fort of Kalpitiya.

The Fort is a part of the Navy Command hence prior approval is required to visit the Fort. They were very helpful and gave us a guided tour.

The Fort was built in 1667, on the spot where the Portuguese had a stockade and a Jesuit chapel. It is classified as a medium size Fort. The walls are about 4 meters high and inside are the remnants of the chapel, a commander’s house, barrack rooms, a prison and several go downs.
It was said that consent to build the Fort was obtained from the ruling King on the pretext that it would only a cover for the church. Two church like arches were built inside the complex to make outsiders believe that it was in fact a church. When seen from inside, these arches have no relevance to the main buildings.
There was a tunnel leading from the Fort. It is now closed.
The Fort bears a deteriorated appearance and in need of urgent restoration. A Navy Officer told us that several foreign tourists have expressed their willingness to fund such a task but no one bothered to pursue those offers. Usual scenario !!!!

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MAP OF THE FORT

MAP OF THE FORT – Click Image to Enlarge

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SIGNS OF ENGLISH OCCUPANCY ON THE DOOR

SIGNS OF ENGLISH OCCUPANCY ON THE DOOR – Click Image to Enlarge

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BELL ARCH OVER MAIN DOOR

BELL ARCH OVER MAIN DOOR – Click Image to Enlarge

After the guided tour of the Fort, a Navy brother volunteered to take us to a clean and safe bathing place. We had to drive following his motor bike for a considerable distance to a Navy guarding point facing the sea (not the lagoon). The guarding point is only a temporary hut but warm welcome of the Navy boys instantly made it our home.

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NAVY POINT WITH POOR FACILITIES

NAVY POINT WITH POOR FACILITIES

A roughly laid stone pier which extended to the sea has made an alcove where fishing boats were shored. All incoming and outgoing boats are required to report to the Navy point.

PART 05
It is a unique bathing place safe from rough sea and we spent several hours in water. All had to suffer scratching sun burns for several days after the trip.

After a bath of fresh water, we had our lunch inside the Navy hut.

PART 06
The day was still young and I asked our Australian friend whether he wish to go any other places. He readily told us that he wanted to visit Thonigala.
Thonigala is a rock located in Anamaduwa about 2 kilometers from the town, on Puttalam Road. It is famous for 2 gigantic rock inscriptions made on it. The tank called Galawewa is bordering the rock.
About 20 feet above the bottom line of the Rock, there are inscriptions carved on the rock face . Each letter is about a foot in height and has been chiseled out for an inch deep in to the rock.
Some times back, these inscriptions were covered with soil by villagers to protect them from erosion. Now the State has taken over the function and let the nature to do the obvious job. ( I always wonder why people of this country rely on an alarmingly inefficient government department to protect our heritage. It is high time to form an organization to do that. )
Apart from the inscriptions, the place is of interest and of beauty due to the low level rock, the wewa and the greenery surrounding. Ecological beauty is beyond imaginations. The environment is unique for camping.

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ONLY 150 METERS FROM THE ROAD

ONLY 150 METERS FROM THE ROAD

SCRIPT

Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisaha wapi acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa dine. Dewana pi maharaja Gamini Abaye niyate acanagaraka ca [tawi] rikiya nagaraka ca. Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisa niyata pite raj aha agata anagata catudisa sagasa.

TRANSLATION

The tank of the parumaka Tisa, son of the parumaka Abhaya, at the mountain of Acagirika Tisa, is given to the priesthood of the four quarters, present and absent. The great king, beloved of the gods, Gamini Abhaya, ordered : Acanagara and Tawirikiyanagara, which have been established
by my father, King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, [are given] to the priesthood of the four quarters, present and absent.

The second inscription, largest ever, is another tranquilizing walk away.

SCRIPT
Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisa niyate. Ima wapi acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa. Dewana piya maharaje Gamini Abaye niyate acanagaraka catawirikiya nagaraka ca acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa. Parumaka baya puta parumaka Tisaha wisara niyate pite.

TRANSLATION
King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, ordered : This tank at the Acagirika Tisa mountain is given to the priesthood of the four quarters present and absent. The great king, beloved of the gods, Gamini Abhaya, ordered : Acanagara and Tawirikiya nagara [are given] to the priesthood in the four quarters present and absent. The tank of King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, is established by my father.

EVERY TRIP HAS A COMMON DEFECT.
IT ENDS

Four days at Mannar and Wilpattu

Year and Month April, 2013
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew Five (Myself, wife, daughter and two sons)
Accommodation Four Tees Rest Inn at Mannar and a private house at Wilpattu
Transport Car
Activities A Family trip, Visiting Adam’s bridge, Wild life
Weather Excellent
Route Gampaha -> Puttalam -> Nochchiyagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Thanthirimale -> A14 -> Murukkan ->
Seelawathura -> Arippu  Mannar -> Thalaimannar -> Back on the same route to Nochchiyagama -> Wilpattu -> Puttalam -> Gampaha.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Four Tees Rest Inn is an average place with reasonable charges
  • Try to be as early as possible at Thalaimannar pier, to avoid the scorching sun, on your return journey.
Author Wije
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We started at 5.00 am from Gampaha and reached Puttalam rest house by 8.00 am and had our breakfast.

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Puttalam lagoon and wind power mill

Puttalam lagoon and wind power mill

From Puttalam it was a relaxing drive along A12 and passing Wilpattu we turned left at Nochchiyagama towards Oyamaduwa and reached Thanthirimale temple. This road is narrow and curvy but well paved.
When the Sri Maha Bodi was brought from India by Buddhist nun Sangamitta, the pot containing the sapling was kept at Thanthirimale for one night. It is believed that there was one branch separately grew from the pot and it was planted at Thanthirimale.

We climbed (apparently ran) the rock and it was boiling, under scorching sun.

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The Bo tree at the top of the rock

The Bo tree at the top of the rock

From Thanthirimale we drove another 10 KM to meet A14 Medawatchchiya/Mannar road at Gajasinghapura. Then we came to Madu junction and turned right and drove another 10 KM to reach Madu church. The road was in great shape all the way up to the church.

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Surroundings are very peaceful

Surroundings are very peaceful

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Mannar railway line under construction

Mannar railway line under construction

From Madu we came to Murukkan along A14 and turned left to reach Seelawathura. From there we drove another 5 KM on a gravel road to reach Dorick House, the colonial bungalow which was built in 1804, the residence of the first Governor of Sri Lanka, Sir Fedrick North.

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Dorick tower seen at a distance

Dorick tower seen at a distance

This house was built near Silawathura beach and some of the walls were seen fallen on to the beach.

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Fallen parts of the building

Fallen parts of the building

Driving another few kilometers on the same gravel road, we reached Fort of Arippu. This was a Dutch Fort where Robert Knox sought protection to escape after his 19 years (1660 – 1679) captivity. Robert Knox is popular for the book he wrote, named ‘Historical relations of Ceylon’

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Inside the Fort has become a jungle

Inside the Fort has become a jungle

From Arippu we came back to Murukkan and drove towards Mannar and then stopped near Giant tank and had our lunch and it was almost 5.00 pm.

From Giant tank we proceeded along A14 and came to Thirukedeeswaran Kovil. We couldn’t get near as the gate was closed. Thereafter, we visited the Biobab tree which is situated in the heart of Mannar town.

This tree was brought there by Arabians during 1477 which is 7.5 meters tall and has a circumference of 19 meters.

Then we proceeded through Mannar causeway and came to Four Tees Inn.

We were greeted by the owner Mr. Lawrence a very helpful and obliging person.

Next day morning we left to Thalaimannar to visit Adam’s bridge. It’s 24 Four Tees Inn and the road was excellent.KM from

Sri Lanka Navy operates boat tours to Adams bridge sand dune islands. It is also called Rama’s bridge or Rama Sethu. They charge Rs 600/= per head and our boat could accommodate six. We were given life saving jackets and there was a life saver also to accompany us, in addition to the boat operator. So the safety is guaranteed.

Adam’s bridge is a 30 KM long chain of 16 islands. The folk story is that ‘Rama’ had built this bridge with the help of ‘Hanuman’ to rescue ‘Sitha’ from ‘Ravana’.

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We started the boat tour around 7.00am

We started the boat tour around 7.00am

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Riding towards the deep sea

Riding towards the deep sea

The sea was calm and it was an unforgettable journey and really enjoyable. After about one hour we reached the second island of the Adam’s bridge.

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They were disturbed by our boat

They were disturbed by our boat

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Getting close to the island

Getting close to the island

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This island is home for several birds

This island is home for several birds

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We walked through these shallow ponds

We walked through these shallow ponds

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And finally reached the second island

And finally reached the second island

It was an amazing experience when you land on it. As you step on to the island, you get the feeling that it’s virtually a desert. But when you explore it deeply, you will realize that it is actually a heaven.

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Probably unique to this island

Probably unique to this island

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Another peculiar plant unique to this island

Another peculiar plant unique to this island

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Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes on the beach

Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes on the beach

There were some nice drawings on the sand, done by the master sculptor, ‘Nature’

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Another peculiar drawing on sand

Another peculiar drawing on sand

We were walking freely from one end to the other and it was a wonderful experience.

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Getting ready for the return journey

Getting ready for the return journey

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Talaimannar pier seen from the sea

Talaimannar pier seen from the sea

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'Thal kola Weta' Palmyra leave fence is Very common in Mannar

‘Thal kola Weta’ Palmyra leave fence is Very common in Mannar

We came to Four Tees Inn around 11 am and after having lunch said good bye to Mr. Lawrance and came on the same route through Thanthirumale to Nochchiyagama and then to Wilpattu. We stayed at a private house arranged by my trekker Sampath and next day by 6.30 am we were at Wilpattu entrance.

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6.30 am at Wilpattu entrance

6.30 am at Wilpattu entrance

It was just after the rainy season and the park was looking bright with lush greenery all over with blooming flowers and the water levels had gone down. We drove for about five hours but did not come across any significant sighting except for few birds. I am not a birder and therefore I have no idea of their nomenclature.

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Just by the side of the road

Just by the side of the road

My guess is they are all common birds.

Then we came to Modaragam Aru river near the Kokmote bungalow. We had a nice cool dip there and had lunch.

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Captured near Modaragam river

Captured near Modaragam river

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Another colourful one at Modaragam river

Another colourful one at Modaragam river

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Just crossed in front of our jeep

Just crossed in front of our jeep

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They were not in abundance this time

They were not in abundance this time

It was almost 5.30 pm and we decided to get back. On our way to the main entrance, all of a sudden the driver stopped the jeep and signaled us to be quiet. We were amazed to see a sloth bear about ten meters away from the jeep.

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He was hidden behind a shrub and couldn't get a good view

He was hidden behind a shrub and couldn’t get a good view

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After few minutes he moved away hurriedly and walked into the jungle

After few minutes he moved away hurriedly and walked into the jungle

We were disappointed as we couldn’t get a good view. Then we moved little forward and our trekker Sampath asked the driver to stop the jeep and turn off the engine. We patiently waited for about five minutes and to our luck the bear appeared again and came near the jeep and stood for few seconds, without moving even an inch. He was inviting us to snap him as much as possible, so we did it.

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Unmoved, Nicely posing, just by the side of the road

Unmoved, Nicely posing, just by the side of the road

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Then he moved a bit and looked at us

Then he moved a bit and looked at us

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and vanished into the jungle

and vanished into the jungle

We came to the bungalow around 6.30 pm. Next day morning we returned home with loads of remarkable memories.

 

Rural village Udawadiya..

Year and Month June, 2013
Number of Days One
Crew 1
Accommodation Bandaras house at Mahadowa
Transport Public Transport / trishaw
Activities Culture / Photography / Waterfall hunting / Hiking / experiencing rural village life!
Weather Sunny day with clear sky
Route Passara -> Namunukula -> Tennecombora -> Udawadiya ->  Kosgolla -> Iluktenna -> Higurukaduwa -> Kotamuduna -> Passara -> Mahadowa

[Download Google Earth Trail Map]

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (1L per person) and food
    like biscuits and etc.
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back
    everything you took.
  • If you have a 4WD you could reach Tennecombora line houses and walk from
    there, other alternatives are 4Wd road from Balleketuwa and Siyambalagune
    and no trishaw guy will agree to go on a hire to Udawadiya.
  • Roughly 4.5Km hike from Tennecombora junction to Udawadiya and 7Km from
    Higurukaduwa
  • Ask directions from locals whenever possible and If you meet few locals
    from Udawadiya have a chat with them and get to know more information

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Bandara of Mahadowa

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

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The map, purple is the waterfall

The map, purple is the waterfall – Click to enlarge

When I first stepped in to Monaragala I planned to visit all four waterfalls listed under Monaragala district and suddenly one waterfall seemed to be a mystery and was bit of a challenge considering its location called Udavadiya. I was posted to Devathura to cover up another colleague’s duty for about one month and during that period I got some information from the local population about this village called Udawadiya. According to the locals this village is at the boarder of the two districts of Uva and geographically located in an isolated gap between mountains on the southern slopes of the central hills of Sri Lanka which even does not have a proper access route. It is said that warriors of 1630 Randeniya battle later resettled themselves at this village and had been there until now and due to inter family marriages the number of deaf and dumb in the population is said to be high in Udawadiya. I decided one day I’m going to explore this place and almost after one and a half years that day arrived.

From Passara I got to Namunukula and took the Devathura/Miyanakadura road for about 3.5Km’s. I reached a junction where there was a board directing towards Tenacombara school. Though the road was motorable for about 1.5Km up to the line houses no trishaw would risk to go there J so the long walk started from this point onwards. The road was a 4WD one in bad condition as predicted and Within no time I was walking along a lonely road enjoying some stunning scenery towards the valley of Devathura and far away Monaragala. After about 1.5Km I reached few houses on the slopes of the valley and I proceeded further from this point enjoying some stunning views towards the paddy fields in the valley. Next I reached the last set of line houses and from here onwards the road was only a foot path. After getting directions I set foot towards Udawadiya and not so far away from this point I came across a cave near a stream where travelers from Udawadiya used to rest.

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starting point of a 11km trail at Tennekumbura

starting point of a 11km trail at Tennekumbura

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last line home stretch

last line home stretch

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resting cave, like an ambalama

resting cave, like an ambalama

The path was a lonely one and one should keep in mind to stick to the clear path rather than other branching out foot paths towards the forest. I was heading towards a gap between two peaks of the mountain range where I came across few villagers from Udawadiya carrying some stuff on their heads and going to a funeral at Tennacombara. If you look at the images you will note how difficult their lives are. After having a small chat I proceeded and reached the gap where for the first time Buttala region was offered to my camera lens and from here onwards it was a downhill journey through the small mana patch. Please keep in mind the path is not clear at this point but if you look around it could be spotted. It was a pleasure to enter the green forest and get out of the blazing sun. The path was slippery because of loosened up rocks, so one should keep in mind to be watchful while enjoying the scenic descent. It is simply spectacular to see how the paddy fields of Higurukaduwa extend up to Buttala area through a valley.

The descend through the thick forest with occasional openings with a remarkable window view ended at the village after a 2.75Km trek from the last line houses and the rock paved road was to say welcome to Udawadiya. Not so far away from that point I came across the first house which was quite nicely built and they seem to be fulfilling their electricity requirements via a solar panel. I was told that these villagers are very busy and prosperous but their main obstacle been the mode of transport. After emerging on to the newly dozered road which connects Balleketuwa side and Siyambalagune, I met a villager and got proper directions from here onwards. One of my main objectives was to hunt the hidden beauty called Udawadiya falls which also had a mini hydro project which was functional according to the villagers.

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Devathura government dispensary

Devathura government dispensary

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life is so hard but they do survive

life is so hard but they do survive

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 the gap towards buttala was opened up

the gap towards buttala was opened up

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note the paddyfields extending towards buttala

note the paddyfields extending towards buttala

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finally reached the village

finally reached the village

Descending few hundred meters along the road I came to a junction with a huge mango tree and there was a foot path to the left which led to Higurukaduwa but I took the right turn and headed towards the newly constructed causeway across Udavadiya oya. And there was a water canal in parallel to the main stream which diverted water from the main stream which I followed downstream in search of the waterfall. Through the bushes the beautiful cascade of Udawadiya started to immerge and I couldn’t resist it, so cautiously I did get down to the base of this beauty and started running around snapping its upper and lower parts. I was tired and was sweating a lot so the base pool was inviting me to refresh my self which I couldn’t repel. After enjoying a lonely bath I dressed up and said good bye to this beauty and headed back to the three way junction.

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left will take one to higurukaduwa, right will lead to siyambalagune

left will take one to higurukaduwa, right will lead to siyambalagune

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lower part of Udawadiya ella

lower part of Udawadiya ella

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beautiful upper part of udawadiya ella

beautiful upper part of udawadiya ella

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the temple with only a bo tree

the temple with only a bo tree

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hard life at one of the most rural villages of SL

hard life at one of the most rural villages of SL

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a true tawalama carrying paddy

a true tawalama carrying paddy

If one wants to reach Udawadiya from Siyambalagune it will be a 12Km 4WD ride as the locals said. Even from Ballekatuwa only one Tea lorry arrives somewhere close to the village daily. The foot path from the junction will take one too Higurukaduwa and it will be roughly 7Km’s. The path continues through the village houses and there is a clear path with occasional steps and it is a very well shaded path been bordered by plenty of jack trees. My legs started to ache within no time because of the difficult descend and after passing few houses I reached the Paddy field located in a heavenly location. It is simply the best paddy field I have ever seen. When one stands in the center of the field you can enjoy an endless view towards Buttala region and the southern oceans of Sri Lanka. According to some people I met the village consist of At least 80 family’s dispersed in a huge area though I met only very few of them. The village has only a “Bo” tree which signifies a temple for them. For the first time in my life I came across a true “Thawalama” carrying a bag of grain and it sums of the lives of these people of Udawadiya.

From the paddy fields onwards the path continued downwards and at a place where it met a mini stream it seemed to disappear. This place is a “Kos mandiya” and once you cross over you could find the lost path again. Next mile stone is the bridge made across a huge stream (probably Devathura oya) where one could enjoy a nice cool dip. Next is the village of Kosgolla where a 4WD road could be found after hurrying up my walk I reached Ilukktenna village. The last stretch to Higurukaduwa was done in a rush because it had got late and I needed to catch the last bus to Passara. The road seemed to be concreted for 1Km from Higurukaduwa and according to the locals the authorities have promised to complete the whole road up to Udawadiya. People at Higurukaduwa did mention that the children of Udawadiya do travel up and down 14Km per day just to get to a school and return back since this is the closest Sinhala school for them. After hearing that I felt so sad about these kids and I wish this write up will be an eye opener to the relevant officials of Uva province and other authorities of the government. After getting to Higurukaduwa I rested for about good 30 minutes before I left towards Passara with some unforgettable memories of Udawadiya.

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a paddyfield with a view of the southern oceans

a paddyfield with a view of the southern oceans

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finally the bridge at kosgolla

finally the bridge at kosgolla

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 their toys are much simpler

their toys are much simpler

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a good road but non motarable

a good road but non motarable

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upper paddyfield was the one i previously visited

upper paddyfield was the one i previously visited

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summary of their hard life

summary of their hard life

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the end destination, oops not the hospital but Higurukaduwa

the end destination, oops not the hospital but Higurukaduwa

Thanks for reading!

Yatiyanthota-Bulathkohupitiya re-explored on bikes!

Year and Month July, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 4 (Ashan / Amila / Harinda / Sri )
Accommodation N/A
Transport two bikes
Activities Waterfall Hunting / Scenery / Bike ride
Weather Sunny day
Route Maharagama -> Avissawella -> Karawanella -> Yatiyanthota -> Parusella -> Malalpola -> Halgolla -> Punugala -> Amanawala -> Halgolla tea factory -> Wewelthalawa -> returned back to Parusella -> Ampagala -> Puna hela -> Bulathkohupitiya -> Thunbage -> Dedugala -> Ihala Pelanpitiya -> Bulathkohupitiya -> Gonaramba -> Ruvanwella -> Avissawella -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Don’t disturb wild life
  • Wewethalawa / Wewelthalawa requires 4WD access
  • Need special permission to visit ITN transmission tower but you don’t need permission
    to get to the top of the mountain
  • Beware of broken glass bottles
  • There are Leeches, be ready to tackle them
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Rocks may be slippery
  • Beware “Mana” is sharp, you will itch for weeks

**SPECIAL THANKS TO** Lahiru

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It had been raining continuously during the past few weeks and the waterfalls were living their dream. It was time for another waterfall hunt and the idea was further facilitated by my friend Amila who said lets go on a bike ride and find few cascades tomorrow. So as usual this bike ride was planned on 8pm on the previous day and to be successfully carried out on the following day. Harinda decided to break the silence and join in this venture after a long pause and Sri was ever so ready to explore some beauties. We decided to explore Wee oya valley of Yatiyanthota and Ritigaha wahaka oya valley in Bulathkohupitiya , targeting few hidden cascades that were waiting until some waterfall lovers visit them.

So all four of us got together as planned at 4.30am at Maharagama and headed towards Avissawella, where the magical sun rise over Kelani River forced us to step on the breaks. Next stop was Karawanella where we had our breakfast and also packed up some bread as lunch and hurried towards Yatiyanthota. From Yatiyanthota we took the Seeforth road along Wee oya valley. The scenery towards Wee oya forced us to take few stops even before we had a glimpse of the first cascade of the day. Wee oya falls can be viewed cascading from the slopes of the opposite mountain resembling Diyaluma falls just before reaching Halgolla. In parallel to it another cascade could be seen plunging down and we named it Wee oya 2 falls.

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the kelani river flows peacefully

the kelani river flows peacefully

Just before reaching Malalpola we came across a road side cascade called Malalpola falls where we shot some close ups before heading towards Malalpola junction where Kithul falls could be found. Kithul falls is another road side beauty which has got its name because of the abandoned Kithul trees in the vicinity. From here onwards the houses and the boutiques seemed to be belonging to some other decade from the past. Next road side beauty was Punugala fall which is formed by Anda dola, we enjoyed this beauty from the bridge rather than attempting to get to it by donating some blood to the blood suckers Image may be NSFW.
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:-P
. This waterfall plunges down through a canal in a rock wall in an angular fashion. On the way to Amanawala we did see another cascade plunging along the steep rock on the opposite hill which is called Gorok fall and there was a temple at the base of it. There was a small reservoir across Wee oya close to it which we decided to explore on our way back. Before reaching Olu falls we did come across few road side Cascades where we didn’t forget to photograph.

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endless scenery on seeforth rd

endless scenery on seeforth rd

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Punugala fall(Andadola cascade)

Punugala fall(Andadola cascade)

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the temple at the base of goraka ella

the temple at the base of goraka ella

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cascade at hagolla upper part

cascade at hagolla upper part

Close to Amanawala we went across a wooden bridge and suddenly noted that we were crossing Olu ella and again the breaks were put in to action Image may be NSFW.
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:-D
. Olu Ella which is said to be the 5th highest in Sri Lanka has many levels and from the bridge one can easily visualize its upper and middle parts. Since it had rained during the past few days the waterfall was in full flow.  Few locals who passed by advised us not to get down from the bridge, showing us the danger that awaits us. Whenever a vehicle crosses the wooden bridge our legs had a free massage due to the shakiness of the planks. Just passing the bridge there was a foot path towards Wee oya which we took and reached the base of the lower part to get a full view of the waterfall. The slippery rocks made our task very difficult than we expected. Though we had a good view of the cascade from this point it is said that a better view could be gained from the power house on the opposite bank of Wee oya. Just like all other waterfalls we came across up to now Olu ella also terminated in Wee oya which eventually joined Mighty Kelany river. On our way back we did not forget to enjoy a walk along the suspension bridge across Wee oya which we noted previously.

Quote

Olu Falls

Between 15 and 18m wide, and 100m tall, Olu Falls is an impressive sight. it cascades downwards in four streams into a pool at the base known as Olu Dola. The waters then merge with the Wee River, before flowing into the Kelani River, near the Saman Temple at Yatiyantota. The water serves the areas of Mevia and Gilma.

A wooden bridge spans the river and during rainy weather the fall’s spray soaks passing villagers. The local people have noticed that the water volume has started to decrease, though there is still enough to sustain them. The water is also used for several turbines in the area and to irrigate the surrounding paddy fields.

The fall can be found 19km along the road from Yatiyantota town, heading in the direction of Seepotha (Galle District, Yatiyantota PC Amanawela GS area). The Kitulgala rest-house is 34km away.

At the bridge we did note a mighty mountain and when we inquired about it the locals said it was called Wewethalawa/Wewelthalawa, suddenly I remembered that I have been thinking of getting to the top of it for ages and since there was a road to the top of it we decided to give it a try. On the way back we arrived at Halgolla tea factory where we pumped some air in to Amila’s bike before starting to ascend from that point onwards. The road which branches out from Halgolla tea factory was winding around the mountain and rapidly gaining elevation producing some stunning scenery which is a pleasure to the eyes. After about 7Km’s we reached a significant landmark at the base of the rock called Dripping rock which is a place of worship for the locals. The name has been given to this point because of the continuous drooling of water along the rock for about 100m during the whole year. It is one of those unique places one needs to visit whenever they get a chance. Passing the dripping rock we further ascended uphill through the forest patch of Amanawala reserve and on the way we did note cable carts which once carried tea leaves from Wewelthalawa to Halgolla tea factory and immediately we did stop to have a better look at this masterpiece from the past. After tackling the winding uphill route with many hair pin bends we reached the plateau of Wewethalawa which seemed like a hidden heaven on top of a mountain and the summit of it was seen to be having two transmission towers. From the plateau we had to proceed to the left from the Budhdha statue and the road begun to get bad to worse within no time. The scenery was priceless and it did force us again to have some quick stops. On the way we came across a memorial done in remembrance of the WW2 and we were clueless of its significance.

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endless scenery on the way to Wewelthalawa

endless scenery on the way to Wewelthalawa

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approaching the dripping rock

approaching the dripping rock

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and it felt like it was raining

and it felt like it was raining

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the starting point of the cable carts

the starting point of the cable carts

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the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

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scenery from the the plateau at wewethalawa

scenery from the the plateau at wewethalawa

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the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

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 it says sour memories of WW2

it says sour memories of WW2

The road through the forest patch towards the summit is a 4 wheel ride and you really need a 4WD to tackle this road. Our bikes faced many obstacles on the way through this forest patch which was similar to Horton plains. At some places we even had to push our bikes for few meters. The road is in terrible condition and we did suffer the consequences later. After tackling the last 5Km we reached the summit which was covered with mist. After passing the SLBC tower we reached a closed gate towards ITN transmission tower where we had to get special permission to proceed in which we achieved successfully. Unfortunately the mist was not in our favour so it obscured a panoramic view towards Colombo and Kitulgala areas. If you have been to Kitulgala you would have noted Wewelthalawa transmission towers clearly. We were shown a foundation of building from WW2 era, where the British had their military camp and a main communication and observation tower during that period. It was time to leave this summit which was 4200ft in altitude and reach the drier Bulathkohupitiya region. The descend was equally difficult and we did manage to get down with caution, Amila’s bike had already lost some air and we needed to get it fixed ASAP so we had to skip the Observation point at Wewelthalawa Plateau this time. When we reached the Seeforth road both bikes had punctured tubes and that summed up the road condition to Wewelthalawa.

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SLBC tower at Wewelthalawa

SLBC tower at Wewelthalawa

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ITN Yatiyanthota transmission tower

ITN Yatiyanthota transmission tower

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remains of the WW2 watch post

remains of the WW2 watch post

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remains of the foundation of the British army base during the WW2

remains of the foundation of the British army base during the WW2

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after we went it cleared off a bit

after we went it cleared off a bit

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the plateau at wewethalawa

the plateau at wewethalawa

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free day is used for collecting wood

free day is used for collecting wood

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road side cascade on parusella bulathkohupitiya rd

road side cascade on parusella bulathkohupitiya rd

After repairing the two bikes of Amila and Harinda we reached Parusella junction and headed towards Bulathkohupitiya Rd. while heading towards Bulathkohupitiya along Ruwanwella rd we noted Punahela falls on the right hand side of the road close Ampagala. Next stop was Bulathkohupitiya junction. After buying some stuff we headed along Dedugala road. Next attraction is Rikili ella which springs down the slope of a hill on the left hand side to end in Ritigaha wahaka oya and you won’t miss this waterfall which has a road side name board same as the next two waterfalls. After passing few more Km’s we reached the board saying Nalagana ella where we proceeded along the foot path which led towards it. This is my second visit to these waterfalls almost after 4 years that is. At Nalagana Ella we came across a couple who was in deep romance and didn’t note us until 5 or 10 minutes passed by. To get a closer view of this beauty I did crawl upon some boulders with some difficulty but at the end the view was ever so rewarding. This was the most beautiful waterfall for me on that day. It was Dancing down just like a Nalagana and it think that name suits her very well. We did have our bread as lunch and headed back to the road in search of the next road side beauty which was Rukmal Ella. Rukmal ella is yet again another road side attraction which one will come across while traveling up to Dedugala.

Quote

Rikili Falls

The source of the 30m fall is the stream flowing from the northern side of the Hunusahaldeniya mountain range (600m). It flows via Ritigaha to the Kelani River. It is 5km from the Dedugala highway, and the nearest town is Kitulgala.

Nalagana Falls

Springing from the Ritigaha Oya reservoir, the Nalangana Falls comprises a number of chutes, each measuring about 40m in height. The fall is situated at Dedugala, 9km east of Bulathkohupitiya. The nearest town is Bulathkohupitiya, and the Kitulgala rest-house is 41km away

Rukmal Falls

This 20m rukmal fall is best viewed from the highway. To reach it from Bulathkohupitiya, travel along the road to the east for 13km. It is 45km from Kitugala rest-house.

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Suramba falls(Punahela fall)

Suramba falls(Punahela fall)

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a cascade close to nalagana falls

a cascade close to nalagana falls

After passing Dedugala we proceeded further 5Km to reach Ihala Pelanpitiya “kada mandiya” where we asked directions about a hidden beauty called Diyagirena/ Diyangiri / Devagiri Fall. And to get to it we had to proceed on a newly concreted road and then descend through the tea estate until we reached the base of this 90m tall cascade which was like a creation in heaven. The term “Diya agirena Ella” suits it very well. After snapping around we removed all those leeches that hung on us and proceeded up hill to witness the sunset through the Ihala pelanpitiya gap. According to locals on a clear day when the sun is vanishing off one could easily appreciate the BOC tower and the twin towers of WTC at Colombo but we were not so lucky on that day. It was almost 5pm and we had to rush back towards the main road to end our waterfall hunt with some treasured memories. We somehow reached Avissawella close to 7pm where I said good bye to my friends and headed back to Monaragala.

Quote

This 90m fall was previously known as ‘Diyawegirena Falls’, denoting its perennial flow, but underwent dialectal change to its present form. The plants in the surrounding Dedugala Reserve have valuable medicinal qualities but are being pilfered by unscrupulous thieves who sell them as ornamental plants. Local villagers are calling for urgent action to protect the existing plants and to grow more. The government has already started taking steps towards this. The fall is located at Pallampitiya village, Kegalle District (Kegalle Electorate, Bulathkohupitiya Divisional Secretariat no.131B, Pallampitiya area). It is 96km from Colombo, 24km from Navalapitiya and 3km from Dolosbage. From the Upper Pallampitiya village bus stop, take the road to Kelvin B Colony for 2.5km to find the fall.

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glimpse of Devagiri or Diyangiri or Diyaagirena fall

glimpse of Devagiri or Diyangiri or Diyaagirena fall

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beautiful Diyaagirena fall

beautiful Diyaagirena fall

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ihala pelanpitiya gap through wee oya valley

ihala pelanpitiya gap through wee oya valley

Under the Shadow of the Temple of Sacred Tooth Relic

Year and Month July, 2013 (12th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 2
Accommodation  N/A
Transport Podi Manike Train
Activities Photography/ Archeology
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Kandy.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Be sure to speak to Charles uncle at the Garrison Cemetery coz he’s a walking encyclopedia when it comes to info about the place.
  • Try to jot down as much info as possible coz those historical details are as vital as the pics.
  • The leaflet says that the Garrison Cemetery is closed on Sundays but the notice board at the entrance says that they are open daily from 08.00 to 06.00. (unfortunately couldn’t double check with Uncle Charles)
  • The Kandy Museum is just next door right behind the Temple of Tooth Relic.
  • Beware of guides (at the museum) trying to sell you artifacts and maps. Details given with the report.
  • Water is essential to keep you going.
  • No entrance fee for Garrison cemetery but you’re welcome to contribute to the till kept at the small church-like building at the entrance.
  • For the museum, the ticket price is 20/- and if you wanna take your camera, you have to buy a ticket for 250/-.
  • Bring back memories and don’t leave anything but footprints.
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Thursday 11 July 2013.
1.28am:

“Good Morning! What’s up? Getting ready?” – came Tony’s reply on Thursday 11 July morning.
“I’m sorry Tony, I’ve got fever and been shivering like a Polar Bear without its fur coat. What do you think” – I asked Tony coz he’s a medical guy and got tons of experience under his belt.
“How do you feel? Coz if you’ve fever, we shouldn’t go. What do you think?” – Tony sounds like my Montessori Teacher.
“I’m not sure, but I can’t miss out on this one even if it means the end of me” – ever so stubborn my inner self retorts.
“See how you feel and let me know; I’m ok to postpone this” – Tony trying to cheer me up.

If you wonder what Greek I’ve put up, please accept my apologies. This was the conversation we had just before our mega journey we had planned from 11 July to 14 July. However, I felt very weak and feverish in the middle of the night and the conversation Tony and I had was what you had to read up front…

It came as a nightmare coz I’d never before fallen sick or anything making me to postpone any of my trips but as the saying goes there’s always a first time, this had to be it. I then called my other two friends and put off the journey for the following day coz I was intending to make it at all costs whether I got better within 24hrs or not.

My doctor had to listen to all the complaining and he duly prescribed me some medicine diagnosing it to be a viral flu (damn all of them) and said I should be ok by the following day but walking long distances wouldn’t be a good idea. I already felt better hearing those words.

Having taken my medicine like the God himself presented, I was ready to go and informed Tony and others that we’re after all going ahead even though they were skeptical about my health condition and rightly so. Coz I didn’t feel myself and the bitterness in my mouth won’t simply go away reminding that the fever is still lurking inside me.

The following morning I got up even though I felt like I had chained to the bed and called the rest of the guys and to make matters worse, Lasantha said that he’d got something that had to be attended to and will join us the following day. Can something go more wrong than this? I then joined Tony at the fort railway station and bought three tickets for Kandy to find that my other friend, Dimuthu, is getting late. I was fuming inside and trying my best not to show it when I asked him to come to Kandy straight in the first bus.

However, it turned out to be a hidden gem as we managed to learn a lot of new things and see a lot of unseen during that time. So all good things come at a price and they come in many disguises. So if something like this happens to you, don’t regret it or get worked up. There’s always a silver ray in every dark cloud, if not try to make one.

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National Museum of Kandy - Where our heritage speaks

National Museum of Kandy – Where our heritage speaks

Tour Highlights:

1. Garrison Cemetery, Kandy
2. National Museum, Kandy

Tony and I had a nice little chat along with our snacks till we reached Kandy around 8.30am. Dimuthu was still in Ambepussa which means good two hours for us to kill. Having taken some pics of the bunnies in the front garden of the station, Tony and I headed towards “Dalada Maligawa” but couldn’t try to go inside as I was in shorts. So when we were passing Maligawa, suddenly a thought struck me. I had been trying to visit “Garrison Cemetery” for a long time and this looked like a very good opportunity.

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Hugging and eating... cutie bunnies

Hugging and eating… cutie bunnies

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Never got the chance to see up close

Never got the chance to see up close

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Would've been a grand bathing place

Would’ve been a grand bathing place

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Ducklings nestling together

Ducklings nestling together

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How many of these structures go unnoticed?

How many of these structures go unnoticed?

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This is what it had on the body... Map of Kandy in 1815

This is what it had on the body… Map of Kandy in 1815 – Click Image to Enlarge

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As usual, parents were trying as if there's no tomorrow to take their kids under the belly of this jumbo....

As usual, parents were trying as if there’s no tomorrow to take their kids under the belly of this jumbo….

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Kandy lake standing tall, and cleaner

Kandy lake standing tall, and cleaner

Garrison Cemetery, Kandy

Tony readily agreed and we went searching for it and found it right behind the Maligawa. There was a public toilet just passing the signage where Tony put on his make up while I convinced the caretaker to keep our bags till we returned with a small amount of money.

Entering the cemetery makes you feel just like another typical cemetery but there was this uneasiness (if I may say so) as well. We saw plenty of tombs rising from the ground and two people (an older and a younger fellow) were working on the ground planting grass. Only visitors were Tony and I so it was possible to check the place out in our own leisurely manner. When I was taking a few pictures, Tony the chatter-box, got into conversation with the older person whose name was “Charles”.

He was a very knowledgeable and friendly person who immediately stopped his work to explain the importance of the cemetery and other historical facts. According to him, wild boars are a major threat to the cemetery compound as they come and dig around the graves looking for something to eat. Since there’s no wall but a chain link fence, resulting many wild boars coming from adjacent “Udawatta Kele” forest patch and digging around.

Charles uncle said that they have to replant all the grass everyday dug by the wild boars and we witnessed virtually every place is scattered with dug out earth and grass and they trying in vain to restore them.

Funnily enough, Tony found some common gossips to talk with him too. Apparently he’s heard about Tony’s great grandparents and grandparents. They were talking like long-lost family friends while I was happily picturing everything I could within that time.

Apparently Price Charles was due to visit the cemetery during his visit to SL in 1998 on our 50th independence celebrations but the LTTE bomb had made him change his mind. So much for the ever so brave British Empire.

General Info about Garrison Cemetery:

1. The land mass of the Garrison Cemetery is 0.75acres.
2. There are about 195 graves according to the leaflet printed by “Friends of the British Garrison Cemetery” but Charles uncle said 163 tombs and around 450 bodies buried. (There are graves with more than one body)
3. First grave was of Captain James McGlashan who had died at the age of 26 on 2 December 1817. He had fought alongside Napoleon Bonaparte in Waterloo and many other places such as Busaco and Albuera.
4. The last grave belongs to James Henry Fretz and his family of 6 members on 03 Mar 1951.
5. Edmund Sampson Waring’s tomb was a somewhat special one as he was considered by the British as a traitor. He was supposed to fight “Veera Puran Appu’s” army to safeguard the Kachcheri of Matale, but when the army surrounded the Kachcheri, he fled and saved his life leaving Puran Appu’s army to burn the place down.
6. There was the tomb of the Governor William Henry Gregory’s (1872-1877) wife Elizabeth Gregory too among them.
7. We even saw the Cargills Machinery Suppliers grave which might have been extended to the the birth of current supermarket giant.
8. Main causes for deaths in that time had been Malaria and Cholera.
9. British High Commission of SL has agreed to build a wall around the cemetery to safe guard it better
10. The cemetery is mainly run by the Ministry of Defense in London through the Commonwealth Graves Commission in the UK.
11. You can see the famous John Doyly’s grave at the cemetery. He was said to be very fluent in Sinhala and behind the conspiracy which led to the brutal killings of Ehalepola Family. Gajaman Nona, famous poetess from Matara had addressed him with a set of verses.

When you visit don’t forget to talk to Charles Uncle and he’ll load you with all the info you need to know and I tried vehemently to jot down as much as possible. He’ll show you the tiny Dutch church in front of the cemetery which houses the original map of the place and will even present you with a leaflet with some important details of the people who are buried there.

Having made a small contribution towards the restoration of the cemetery, we bid our farewell to Uncle Charles and retraced our steps. Collecting our bags and saying our thanks to the caretaker, we started descending back towards the road when I remembered that there was the museum next door. Turned around and asked the caretaker if we could visit the place and he nodded and that’s all I wanted.

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Entering the Cemetery Road, you can see the museum from here

Entering the Cemetery Road, you can see the museum from here

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Through the stony entrance

Through the stony entrance

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Various tombs scattered around

Various tombs scattered around

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The last erected one of James Henry Fretz

The last erected one of James Henry Fretz

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The Prominent one is John Doyly's

The Prominent one is John Doyly’s

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From far corner towards the entrance

From far corner towards the entrance

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Uncle Charles, the caretaker

Uncle Charles, the caretaker

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The one with the fence around it belongs to a kid, there are plenty of like these... in some graves, 6-7 people are buried together

The one with the fence around it belongs to a kid, there are plenty of like these… in some graves, 6-7 people are buried together

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See the wild boars’ digging?

See the wild boars’ digging?

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Another one, the writing slowly fading away

Another one, the writing slowly fading away

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More than 160 tombs in all

More than 160 tombs in all

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The door of the tiny church like building

The door of the tiny church like building

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The map of the cemetery

The map of the cemetery – Click Map to Enlarge

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Pics taken during restoration work

Pics taken during restoration work – Click Image to Enlarge

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Article published on Sunday Times

Article published on Sunday Times

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They are keeping records of everyone buried there

They are keeping records of everyone buried there – Click Image to Enlarge

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The cards are nicely indexed

The cards are nicely indexed

National Museum, Kandy

I always want to visit a museum whenever I find one coz that’s where you can learn many things and see hundreds of invaluable artifacts and documents of our history. We bought our tickets and I had to pay 250/- for taking my camera with me which I duly obliged. There was a place with a sign saying “Keep Your Baggage Here” but it’s now occupied by security personnel so had to leave our bags just inside the museum.

What I found very amusing was a bronze statue of Governor Henry Ward at the front of the Museum. It wasn’t Veera Puran Appu, Gongalegoda Banda, Keppetipola Adikarama or any other national heroes’, but the British Governor Henry Ward. I felt disgusted at the attitude of our archaeological gurus and patriotic maestros. Why on earth do we keep one of invaders’ (who looted our country and made our people slaves and destroyed our culture) statue at the front of a key national museum? What a crazy bunch of people are we?

Entering into the museum, I already felt time goes back hundreds of years in seconds. There was this guides (I hope that’s what you call them who’s supposed to roam around you answering any questions you have) whose name was “Shanta” who joined us touring the museum complex.

There were all sorts uniquely Kandyan dresses, jewelry, evidence of ways of life, furniture, weapons and many other things. Then Tony as usual got into talks with our guide and he was very curious about our plans rather than trying to explain what’s inside the museum. When I asked him when the museum was opened, he said must be in the 1960s. He works for the museum and he had no clear idea as to when it was opened. Hilarious, wasn’t it?

When Tony mentioned about our plans to visit Meemure, he wanted to know everything about Meemure and what’s there worth visiting and I was wondering if we were taking him a guided tour to Meemure or he was taking us a guided tour of the Museum. Most of the time, Tony played the guide and he the tourist and I was constantly annoyed seeing this joke enfolding in front of me.

There was no one nearby other than this fellow who could answer a basic question and I started to question the use of employing people like these paying so much money but not getting enough in return. Imagine how they were gonna give info to foreigners? (I don’t intend to criticize the whole bunch of them and know that there are many who really try to give as much info as possible to visitors)

There was another friend of him (must be another guide or an employee) who joined our conversation about visiting Meemure. Can you imagine our plight? I asked if the museum houses many swords and they had no idea and I had to check it for myself coz I wanted to picture them all in case another Super Human broke into that just like Colombo National Museum. At least I’ll have pictures of them with me.

The most intriguing bit was the number of knives and the jars containing fetuses of animals and complete snakes. They had done a very good job of preserving them. While I kept an close eye on the clock as we had our main journey ahead of us and waiting for Dimuthu to arrive in Kandy, Tony had been talking to those guides about Garrison Cemetery coz we had just visited the place.

Seeing how curious Tony was about the cemetery, our guide had shamelessly offered an original map of the cemetery and other artifacts (saying he knows somebody who owns them) for Rs. 100,000/-. I didn’t get to know until we were well away from the museum coz Tony decided that I might make a scene inside the place (I guess he thought exactly right coz I had a good mind to go and make a really big scene).

Can you believe this? How am I ever gonna believe those artifacts in the museums are what they call they really are and not fakes designed by some crooks selling the originals to the highest bidders by those greedy employees and their henchmen? Who can guarantee those swords, jewelry, clothes, documents, etc are not fakes but originals? I’ll really be very suspicious hereafter of the authenticity of those things.

I think our archeological department and the relevant authorities who are responsible for museums and other valuable things must look into this very closely and get rid of these crooks as soon as possible. If not, our museums will all bear fake stuff while the originals are carried away by Super Humans and whoever can pay the highest amount.

We reached Kandy Station around 10.45am and met with Dimuthu and went in search of a Mahiyangana bound bus coz our main aim was elsewhere.

So that was my tiny fairy tale about the unseen of Kandy even though it’s somewhat filled with venom due to the wickedness of our greedy crooks. I hope you learnt something out of this.

Will soon see you all with my next fairy tale which I’m holding very close to my heart.

Take care.

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Now you can't keep your baggage, it's occupied by security

Now you can’t keep your baggage, it’s occupied by security

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Nice touch to the background but pointing towards the Maligawa

Nice touch to the background but pointing towards the Maligawa

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Why or why this couldn't be one of our heroes who sacrificed their lives for this country???

Why or why this couldn’t be one of our heroes who sacrificed their lives for this country???

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A shirt or a blouse? but in Sinhala, it was mentioned as "Hattaya" even for men

A shirt or a blouse? but in Sinhala, it was mentioned as “Hattaya” even for men

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Familiar stuff of Kandy Perahera

Familiar stuff of Kandy Perahera

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Couldn't get the name, coz of that nosey guide

Couldn’t get the name, coz of that nosey guide

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More stuff belonging to royal families

More stuff belonging to royal families

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Belonged to Molligoda Adikaram

Belonged to Molligoda Adikaram

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Along the passage where either side is loaded with artifacts

Along the passage where either side is loaded with artifacts

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Complete set of clothes of the person in the pic

Complete set of clothes of the person in the pic

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Sorry to have missed the name

Sorry to have missed the name

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The writing says "Four corner hat with the flower tree"

The writing says “Four corner hat with the flower tree”

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Vase built using coconut shell and wood

Vase built using coconut shell and wood

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Very artistic and I'm guessing it's a vase or a hand-held lamp

Very artistic and I’m guessing it’s a vase or a hand-held lamp

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A gun powder flask made of Wild buffalo horn

A gun powder flask made of Wild buffalo horn

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Another Dutch gun powder flask made of some kinda horn

Another Dutch gun powder flask made of some kinda horn

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Another inside but smaller than the outside one

Another inside but smaller than the outside one

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"Dandu Kanda" (stocks for the feet in 17-18 century)

“Dandu Kanda” (stocks for the feet in 17-18 century)

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Replica of the Sun using knives

Replica of the Sun using knives

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"Karaduwa" (small container where Tooth Relic like sacred or worthy things kept)

“Karaduwa” (small container where Tooth Relic like sacred or worthy things kept)

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Top part of a bracket pillar

Top part of a bracket pillar

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Gold plated reliquary from Hanguranketha

Gold plated reliquary from Hanguranketha

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More nicely crafted cutters

More nicely crafted cutters

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Just like a diver looking one

Just like a diver looking one

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Daggers used in Ancient India

Daggers used in Ancient India

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The name is used very often for surnames "Kodituwakku"

The name is used very often for surnames “Kodituwakku”

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The containers that I was highly excited about

The containers that I was highly excited about – Click Image to Enlarge

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Divi Makuluwa I think, the name had fallen off

.Divi Makuluwa I think, the name had fallen off

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The second stage with wooden furniture kept

The second stage with wooden furniture kept


Longest isolated mountain of Sri Lanka – Galgiriya Mountain –ගල්ගිරිය කන්ද

Year and Month July, 2013 (09th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 2 (My self and Wuminda)
Accommodation  N/A
Transport By Car
Activities Hiking / Sightseeing / Archeology / Photography
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Kurunegala -> Galgamuwa ->Gallawa (ගල්ලෑව) (Via Galgamuwa-Saliyagama road) -> Kaduruwewa (කදුරුවෑව) -> Galgiriya mountain
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Start the journey as early as possible. Then you can cover a large part of the mountain within a day. (It is not possible to cover whole mountain in one day as it is about 7kmlong)
  • Should have a guide/known person for this climb. Climbing is not strenuous. But in return journey you may not be able to find the way.
  • Jayathilaka Ayya (0778063984). Talk him beforehand at least 2-3 days before your journey and he will arrange someone for this.
  • Carry one liter of water of each person. No water sources during dry season in the mountain.
  • Wear shoes during your hike as the ground is full of stones in various sizes.
  • If you go to Weragala RMV, meet chief priest first and explain your intention of visit. He will show everywhere.
  • Darmarajagala hermitage is a place for meditation. Don’t violate it’s calmness.
  • Wild elephants may come to the road towards Nillaggama. Therefore avoid it after 6pm.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

I was used to travel from Colombo to Pollonnaruwa by morning train (Udaya dewi/උදය දේවී) in one part of my life and accidently noticed an isolated mountain just passed Konwewa (කෝන් වැව) station. I could notice this mountain till I pass Moragollagama (මොරගොල්ලාගම) station. As it was large and situated on a surrounding flat ground, aroused my curiosity and found to have it as the longest isolated mountain of Sri Lanka-Galgiriya mountain.

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Galgiriya Mountain. The image I have taken on my way by train.

Galgiriya Mountain. The image I have taken on my way by train.

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Galgiriya kanda. It can be reached from A-28road (Padeniya-Anuradhapura). Colombo-Batticalo railway track goes on the right side of the mountain (Not seen here).Therefore I have seen other side of the mountain first and climbed the mountain in its left side.

Galgiriya kanda. It can be reached from A-28road (Padeniya-Anuradhapura). Colombo-Batticalo railway track goes on the right side of the mountain (Not seen here).Therefore I have seen other side of the mountain first and climbed the mountain in its left side.
Black line shows my approach to mountain through Kaduruwewa. I climbed to the Bambarakanda
(බඹර කන්ද)-Northern peak of the mountain.
Black star shows the Katakapu Gala (කටකැපූ ගල)-2nd highest peak and Red star shows Mahakanda (මහකන්ද)-highest peak of the mountain.

Importance of the Galgiriya Mountain

 

  1. Geographical value-It is situated in Kurunegala District. It is 478m (1,568ft) high and 7th highest mountain in North Western province and the 212th highest mountain in Sri Lanka. But it is the longest isolated mountain in Sri Lanka-7km long.
  2.  Historical value- It history goes back to Anuradhapura era. Prince Saliya (සාලිය), the son of King Dutugamunu has fallen love with a Chandala girl called Ashokamala (අශෝකමාලා). Saliya gave up his crown due to this affair and fled with Ashokamala from Anuradhapura. Later they came to this mountain and inhabited here. One place in this mountain called Saliya hermitage and Saliyagama (සාලියගම) is also situated close to this mountain.
  3. Botanical value-As it has a good variety of flora and fauna, this mountain has been declared as a forest reserve.
  4. Archeological value-A lot of archeological sites is situated on the mountain and close to the mountain, named as Weragala Rajamaha Wiharaya, Darmarajagala hermitage etc.

We came from Colombo around 5.20am but reached Kaduruwewa around 11.20am. (Delayed due to various reasons) Then we drove towards Darmarajagala Hermitage to find someone to go with us. But the road condition was bad and we stopped the car in front of Kaduruwewa. Meanwhile we met a kind hearted villager called Jayathilaka Ayya. He accompanied us to his place and arranged someone to go with us.
As the time was around 12noon we decided to go to Bambarakanda. Bambarakanda is the northern point of this long mountain.
We approached it through the paddy fields then bushes and last we have to cross the lake called Diwulgane Lake (දිවුල්ගනේ වැව) which has no much water during dry season.

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Bambara kanda-Nothern part of the range.

Bambara kanda-Nothern part of the range.

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Black arrow-Katakapu Gala and Red arrow-Mahakanda and yellow arrow-Kaduruwewa lake.

Black arrow-Katakapu Gala and Red arrow-Mahakanda and yellow arrow-Kaduruwewa lake.

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Wuminda is heading with the guide through paddy fields

Wuminda is heading with the guide through paddy fields

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Kaduruwewa Lake-This part doesn't have water

Kaduruwewa Lake-This part doesn’t have water

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Diwulgane Lake-No water during these days. People use it to feed cows

Diwulgane Lake-No water during these days. People use it to feed cows

Once we cross the Diwulgane Lake, we started to climb the mountain. Climbing is not a big thing at all.

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Wild elephants are common here. The trunk of the tree was scraped by wild elephants

Wild elephants are common here. The trunk of the tree was scraped by wild elephants

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Mark on the ground-Deer or wild boar has been there

Mark on the ground-Deer or wild boar has been there

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One of a common tree for this area

One of a common tree for this area

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That's why they call it as a Galgiriya mountain-

That’s why they call it as a Galgiriya mountain-

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Madu tree (මඩු ගස් ) is also common for this forest reserve. Our guide said they eat Madu fruits.

Madu tree (මඩු ගස් ) is also common for this forest reserve. Our guide said they eat Madu fruits.

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After came to some extent. It is a nice “Sulang Kapolla” සුලo කපොල්ල here.

After came to some extent. It is a nice “Sulang Kapolla” සුලo කපොල්ල here.

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Yapahuwa (යාපහුව) in Red arrow, (Diyabettekanda) දියබෙත්තේ කන්ද in black arrow

Yapahuwa (යාපහුව) in Red arrow, (Diyabettekanda) දියබෙත්තේ කන්ද in black arrow

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Kaduruwewa Lake and paddy fields- Zoomed

Kaduruwewa Lake and paddy fields- Zoomed

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Bambara kanda-our destination

Bambara kanda-our destination

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Can't identify this mountain

Can’t identify this mountain

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Southern part of the range and Kaduruwewa Lake

Southern part of the range and Kaduruwewa Lake

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Naturally made steps for climb

Naturally made steps for climb

We climbed further up to reach the highest point of Bambarakanda. But the surrounding view was not good as we think .Because it was obstructed by trees.

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Kekirawa (කැකිරාව) side-May be Mana kanda (මානාකන්ද කන්ද) and Ritigala (රිටිගල) behind that

Kekirawa (කැකිරාව) side-May be Mana kanda (මානාකන්ද කන්ද) and Ritigala (රිටිගල) behind that

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View of the other part of the mountain from Bambarakanda. Note surrounding trees obstruct the view.

View of the other part of the mountain from Bambarakanda. Note surrounding trees obstruct the view.

Having a little rest there we started to get down. Then we needed to reach the hermitage called “Darmarajagala Senasanaya” (ධර්මරාජගල සේනාසනය) which is situated close to the base of Bambarakanda.

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Showing collection ant's droppings used in Ayurvedic medicine.

Showing collection ant’s droppings used in Ayurvedic medicine.

Darmarajagala Hermitage (ධර්මරාජගල සේනාසනය)
According to the chief monk of this hermitage, it belongs to the Anuradhapura era and caves with drip ledges and some ruin can be seen there.

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This is called wee atu galllena වී අටු ගල් ලෙන. Oldest cave. Currently nobody there.

This is called wee atu galllena වී අටු ගල් ලෙන. Oldest cave. Currently nobody there.

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Brahami inscriptions seen near to that cave.

Brahami inscriptions seen near to that cave.

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Siri Pathul Gala සිරි පතුල් ගල

Siri Pathul Gala සිරි පතුල් ගල

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The cave with longest cave inscription of Sri Lanka

The cave with longest cave inscription of Sri Lanka

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Longest cave inscription (ලෙන් ලිපිය) of Sri Lanka

Longest cave inscription (ලෙන් ලිපිය) of Sri Lanka

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This is built on top of old Stupa

This is built on top of old Stupa

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Old caves were converted to new ones. Nice place for meditation.

Old caves were converted to new ones. Nice place for meditation.

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This is called “Pathaha” (පතහ) -lowland filled with water during rainy season. It acts as a seasonal lake.

This is called “Pathaha” (පතහ) -lowland filled with water during rainy season. It acts as a seasonal lake.

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Wood apple-Another common member of this society

Wood apple-Another common member of this society

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There is a nice flat stony ground next to mountain…..They are constructing a new Bodhigaraya බෝධිඝරය on top of that.

There is a nice flat stony ground next to mountain…..They are constructing a new Bodhigaraya බෝධිඝරය on top of that.

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Black arrow shows the Sulang Kapolla we went. Red arrow shows the highest point we reached.

Black arrow shows the Sulang Kapolla we went. Red arrow shows the highest point we reached.

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(පැල) Most of the time villagers have to spend their night at these huts to protect the paddy fields from Wild elephants and wild boars.

(පැල) Most of the time villagers have to spend their night at these huts to protect the paddy fields from Wild elephants and wild boars.

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Returned back to the village

Returned back to the village

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Need another day to visit there

Need another day to visit there

Jayathilaka Ayya has arranged a tasty lunch for us. Thanks for their hospitality.
After saying good bye to Jayathilaka family, we came to nearby ancient temple called Weragala RMV.

Weragala RMV. (වේරගල රජමහා විහාරය)

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Don't know the exact person build this temple

Don’t know the exact person build this temple

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Nice place to have a temple. This is the image house.

Nice place to have a temple. This is the image house.

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Last part of the Galgiriya is seen behind the temple

Last part of the Galgiriya is seen behind the temple

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Old “Asanagara” (ආසනඝරය) is used for new construction

Old “Asanagara” (ආසනඝරය) is used for new construction

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Sacred foot print stones සිරි පතුල් ගල

Sacred foot print stones සිරි පතුල් ගල

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Belongs to British colonial period-Year is 1884

Belongs to British colonial period-Year is 1884

We came back by the same route and on our way noticed a board towards Nillaggama (නිල්ලග්ගම) Bodhigaraya. You may come across two boards showing this on your way to Galgamuwa. One says the distance is 5km and other says 2km. We followed 2km road but actual distance was about 3-4km.Road condition was fairly o.k.

Nillaggama Bodhigaraya (නිල්ලග්ගම බෝධිඝරය)
This is considered as a great creature of Sinhala architecture. Bodhigaraya is a house made around the Bo tree.

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Actual distance is about 3-4kms.

Actual distance is about 3-4kms.

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Outer wall-exquisitely by granite

Outer wall-exquisitely by granite

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The place where Bo tree was planted. Note they have placed granite for the floor as well.

The place where Bo tree was planted. Note they have placed granite for the floor as well.

Thanks for reading.

Rural Kohonawala where the sun rises at 9am and vanishes at 3pm

Year and Month June, 2013
Number of Days One
Crew One
Accommodation Madulsima police station
Transport by foot
Activities Culture / Photography / Hiking / experiencing rural village life!
Weather Gloomy sky with occasional drizzle
Route Mahadowa -> Madulsima -> Kohonawala  -> Madulsima
Tips,Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water, Jeewani (1L per person) and food stuff
    like biscuits and etc.
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back
    everything you took because this village is an unpolluted one.
  • There is a newly dozered route which is not motorable from Kahataruppa side.
  • Roughly 5Km hike from the starting point which will take 2hours to get down and more than 3 hours to climb up.
  • Ask directions from locals whenever possible, it’s a clear cut foot path at most of the places.
  • If you meet few locals have a chat with them and get to know more information.

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Mr. Jayathilake (OIC Madulsima police station)

Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

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The map - Click to enlarge

The map – Click to enlarge

Have you guys heard about a village located in the valley of Loggal oya where they do not have a road even and they have to climb an abyss to get to the nearest city (Madulsima) for 3 hours. Yes still our fellow citizens do live in the dark where even some of the basic facilities are not available. The sun is seen only at 9am and it vanishes in few hours at around 3pm, even when the sun could be seen the thick layer of mist covers it off and deprive them with their right to enjoy the sunlight. And yet these 200 odd people have managed to survive happily despite all of their troubles. After some recent media programs these people have got some hope and they are looking forward for a brighter future.

Last time when I visited Madulsima my friend OIC Jayathilake said that “next time when you come here don’t forget to visit this rural village” which he has been to on many occasions more than any other citizens of Madulsima. So after many months, that wonderful day arrived and I was all ready to go in and experience a true rural village life style. At around 8.30am I hired a trishaw from Madulsima and asked him to drop me off at the starting point of the trail where a board saying Kohonawala Vidyalaya 9.6Km. From this point one needs to walk through a tea patch and cross a bridge and continue along the foot path which will lead towards Kohonawala.

Once you begin walking along the path through the tea estate you will enjoy the endless view towards the valley of Loggal oya and the paddy fields in it which are done by Kohonawala villagers. After about 200m’s there is a 3 way junction and if one takes an acute turn to the left it will lead you towards Madulsima Dunhida falls which I didn’t attempt at this instance because I have been to it during my last visit. Almost at the edge of the tea patch I came across an old Archchi who was 93 years old and I decided to have a small chat. When I met her it was 8.45am and she had started climbing at around 5.30am in an attempt to collect her “Pin Padi” from Madulsima and just hearing that made me feel sorry about this poor lady. Just imagine the hard life these people go through while other elderly population in the country benefits a restful life. I stayed few minutes watching how this elderly lady with a bent back passed me and proceeded towards Madulsima. From here I took a short cut called “padi desiya” and reached the foot path at a lower level. The path now was through an endless mana patch with a splendid 180 degree view and at some places I had to tackle slippery rocks which were placed as a stair way on the slope of the mountain. One needs to be careful not to step on a slippery rock which will take you down towards an abyss.

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a view of Namunukula is always a blessing to start off

a view of Namunukula is always a blessing to start off

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starting point of a long trail (according to my readings it was close to 5Km)

starting point of a long trail (according to my readings it was close to 5Km)

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had to cross the bridge and continue along the foot path

had to cross the bridge and continue along the foot path

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paddy fields seen in the valley

paddy fields seen in the valley

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the opposite mountain range as seen while descending

the opposite mountain range as seen while descending

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the foot path which branches down will take one towards madolsima dunhida ella

the foot path which branches down will take one towards madolsima dunhida ella

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she was 93 years old and started climbing up from 5.30am to reach madolsima to get pin padi

she was 93 years old and started climbing up from 5.30am to reach madolsima to get pin padi

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had to get to that turpentine patch

had to get to that turpentine patch

Within no time I came across few locals carrying their goods who didn’t notice me until few feet away. I did talk with each and every one I met. They were carrying all type of grains and fruits towards Madulsima where they could sell these crops with not much of a difficulty. The tiredness in their faces simply disappeared while talking and converted in to an ever so lovely smile which I will never forget. Climbing up to Madulsima to sell their crop, buy stuff or for other institutional services has been their routine since birth and one will only understand their hardship if they climb up and down this abyss once. Even though they go to Madulsima they had to take a bus to Passara to fulfill their requirements most of the time. These people were mostly over forty and some were 70 plus. Next I had to descend to another mini peak with a turpentine section and once this section was tackled I reached the resting place of this trail called the Ambalama. Now this is a heavenly Ambalama built on the top of the mountain near a mango tree and one will automatically stop at this place to enjoy a well-earned brake. This was recently built by villages and there was a statement written on a roof pole saying “wagakiwa yuththange as arewa” . From here onwards the path is disastrous because of its steepness. I almost loss control of my speed and ran short stretches downhill to tackle this steepness.

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more villagers who were carrying there goods to madolsima

more villagers who were carrying their goods to madolsima

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it was heavy but he seemed so determined

it was heavy but he seemed so determined

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he was 79 years old his farther is close to 100 and going strong

he was 79 years old his farther is close to 100 and going strong

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entering the turpentine patch

entering the turpentine patch

The village of Kohonawala was now in my visual path and few scattered houses here and there could be clearly seen, the mighty Loggal Oya River was flowing not so far away in the valley towards the beautiful reservoir of Loggal oya. On the opposite side of the hill there was a temple on a rocky ledge with few loud speakers turned on and the “pirith” was oscillating in the valley of loggal oya making my journey so much special. I also did note a newly dozered road on the opposite side of the river which leads to Kahataruppa in a zig zag manner, I wonder if any vehicle can tackle such a road. There was an another zig zag path on the hill close to my foot path which is rarely used by locals to get to Galloolla estate and from there to Metigahatenna hospital. Just before the village I came across and “archchi and her Minipiri” who were climbing uphill with a smile. The little girl was so friendly and she was not aware that they were living a very hard life compared to others. After about 4.5Km I reached the first residence which at that moment had no one around. I did continue further down until I met a villager where I acquired directions towards the temple. The foot path was running through a dense area with lot of Jack trees and pineapple bushes. I did come across few typical rural village houses with villagers and did enjoy their innocent smiles which were a blessing to my tired soul. I had to cross a mini bridge where one can refresh themselves and continue. Within 10 minutes I reached the temple where the head priest was already aware about my arrival..

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archchi and minipiri carrying some goods to Madolsima

archchi and minipiri carrying some goods to Madolsima

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the temple they call siripade

the temple they call sripade

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the first house i came across

the first house i came across

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had to have a wash from this place

had to have a wash from this place

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සරල ගැමි දිවිය

සරල ගැමි දිවිය

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Solar power was the way to go

Solar power was the way to go

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natural springs providing clean water

natural springs providing clean water

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they produce what they want

they produce what they want

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flowers blossoming between manyok leaves

flowers blossoming between manyok leaves

The temple was built within one year and it’s currently under construction, the image house and another building which was underway had been slowly built by village craftsman. The head priest with two more small monks came here after seen the Rupavahini TV programme last year and has done a lot to establish this temple. These are the details of the monk (name: Rev Olaboduwe Dhammananda, Account num: 116-2-001-4-0063593) if one wants to help them out in fulfilling their dream of a village temple. More than financial support the monk said he would prefer some cement bags and other stuff please contact him on this number (0555653138) for further details.

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 image house under construction

image house under construction

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the little monk lending a hand

the little monk lending a hand

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අපූරු දන් ලයිස්තුව.

අපූරු දන් ලයිස්තුව.

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proud of our health services...they have received triposha

proud of our health services…they have received triposha

After spending about one hour in the temple I decided to get back and a 9 year old kid was there to show me the way towards his school which was shelter for 17 village kids. There are two teachers for these kids and the ones doing O/L & A/L’s have to climb uphill to Madulsima for schooling. It was a 10 minute hike to the school which was at a corner of the village and though it was a small school it was well maintained. After hanging around the school a bit I decided to take a short cut to the main path and get back towards Madulsima (Please do note that the Google earth trail map has been measured from the temple of Kohonawala via this short cut to Madulsima). After a steep ascent I reached the last village house where I noted a window made out of a bicycle rim and this was the only wheel I saw in this village.

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ගැමි දරුවෙකුගේ නිර්මල හසරැල්ල!

ගැමි දරුවෙකුගේ නිර්මල හසරැල්ල!

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Kohonawala school with 17 children and 2 teachers

Kohonawala school with 17 children and 2 teachers

The path towards the Ambalama was so steep that I had to stop frequently to catch few breaths. Things got bad to worse when a continuous drizzle appeared, been exhausted I finally saw the Ambalama and I just lied down on the side wall and started breathing slowly for few minutes. A passing by villager who saw me started a conversation and he explained how they built this Ambalama step by step. He said they don’t need anything other than a bridge across Loggal oya so they could send their crop in vehicle to Badulla side without much of difficulty. Electricity is also an issue but for now they are managing well with solar panels. They really prefer having a road from Madulsima town because they are linked with Madulsima division but it seems to be yet another dream. After having a rice packet as my lunch I started the second leg of ascend. It was not so steep but yet an uphill one. On the way up I met a teenage girl carrying few books in her arms. When I inquired from her about her whereabouts she said that she had gone for extra classes at Galloolla School and returning back to the village. She finally said “yannan aiya” and disappeared like a rocket on that steep foot path. I did stop by and watched how she went hoping like a rabbit to get to her home before dark falls. After 3 hours of continuous climbing I reached the trail end where I hired a trishaw to Madulsima police quarters where I halted that night. As the previous time OIC Jayathilake did treat me very well and I’m honoured to have such a friend.

So I hope you guys did enjoy this write up on Kohonawala rural village and hope you will get an opportunity to visit it someday. Also I wish the villagers a brighter future and sincerely hope this would not be another Meemure.

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note the zig zag path to galloolla

note the zig zag path to galloolla

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mahaththayo loggal oya haraha palamak hadunoth apita e athi

mahaththayo loggal oya haraha palamak hadunoth apita e athi

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Nyctemera coleta - Erebidae

Nyctemera coleta – Erebidae

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the ambalama seen on the way

the ambalama seen on the way

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namunukula covered in mist

namunukula covered in mist

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these are all my photographs displayed at the madulsima police station..

these are all my photographs displayed at the madolsima police station.. – Click to enlarge

Refreshing my memories of Namunukula after a decade

Year and Month July, 2013 (24th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 3
Accommodation Camping on Namunukula
Transport By bus and three wheeler
Activities Hiking, photography and sight seeing
Weather Had few showers in the night
Route Passara -> 3rd mile post on Passara-Badulla road -> Deyangalla division of Glenalpin estate -> Namunukula peak -> Returned on same way
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Although there are several pathways, going from the 3rd mile post is the easiest way to reach the highest peak of the mountain range.
  • Better clarify your way till the foot pathway starts in the forest covering. After that there is a clear foot pathway till you reach the peak. There is a rare chance of lost your way.
  • Carry at least one bottle of water per person. During dry season there are no water sources after the tea estate. The well found at the camping site is not good for drinking purpose.
  • If you plan to camp on summit, be prepared for it.
  • No/less leech attacks during dry season.
  • Even though during dry season, it is freezing cold on the top at night with continuous wind. Be ready with your clothes and blankets.
  • Climbing of Namunukula is not a strenuous thing.
  • Special thanks to Ashan for your instructions.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Namunukula is the 12th highest mountain of Sri Lanka which has 2035m (6,677ft) height. The name Namunukula means due to it’s nine peaks. It is situated in Badulla district but closer to Badulla-Moneragala border.
There are several pathways to approach Namunukula. Once I have been there from Namunukula village (a decade ago). I want to go there from 3rd mile post in Badulla-Passara road. It is accepted as the easiest pathway to climb the highest peak of Namunukula. Because you can reach the base of the mountain by a vehicle and then have to go through the tea estate till you meet the last part of the trail through forest covering.
(In contrast my previous approach we had to walk through Pines trees as well).

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Namunukula mountain range...This was taken on my way to Bambaragalapathana

Namunukula mountain range…This was taken on my way to Bambaragalapathana

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Black star shows the starting point at 3rd mile post. Red star shows where the real hiking starts and arrow shows the twin peaks of Namunukula.  Green star shows the Namunukula town where my previous approach stared.

Black star shows the starting point at 3rd mile post. Red star shows where the real hiking starts and arrow shows the twin peaks of Namunukula.
Green star shows the Namunukula town where my previous approach stared.

As we wanted to camp on Namunukula we started the journey after our lunch. We reached the 3rd mile post around 3pm and got a three wheeler to Deyangalla division of Glenalpin estate. The road condition was extremely bad and only a three wheeler or a four wheel can go. After about one hour journey we reached the last lime houses of Deyangalla division where real hike started.

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View of Badulla town on our way to Deyangalla estate

View of Badulla town on our way to Deyangalla estate

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Line houses of Deyangalla division started. Our three wheel driver has dropped us here.

Line houses of Deyangalla division started. Our three wheel driver has dropped us here.

We stepped through the lime houses and clarify the way from villagers. Peaks of Namunukula can be seen from here and we climbed up along narrow pathways through tea bushes.

The trail starts from the point where tea estate separates the forest covering the peak. We were seeking of it.

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Black arrow   shows the point where tea estate separates the forest and the line shows the direction of trail.

Black arrow shows the point where tea estate separates the forest and the line shows the direction of trail.

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The way through the tea patch.

The way through the tea patch.

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Another snap in the tea estate

Another snap in the tea estate

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Arrow shows where trail starts

Arrow shows where trail starts

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Entering to the forest patch...the pathway is very clear

Entering to the forest patch…the pathway is very clear

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These kinds of concrete markers can be seen along the pathway

These kinds of concrete markers can be seen along the pathway

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One of clear areas along the track

One of clear areas along the track

After about one our climbing we reached the summit of this Namunukula peak where you can see a camp site.

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Evidences of recent camping

Evidences of recent camping

From there we followed the pathway of right hand side to reach the second camping site which is better than previous one. It has a small well but water can’t be used for drinking purpose.

We fixed our tent there and time was around 5.30pm. The temperature was going down and wind was blowing all around.

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The well-We managed for washing purpose.

The well-We managed for washing purpose.

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Fixing our tent on camp site 2

Fixing our tent on camp site 2

The foot pathway next to the well brought us to the sacred area of the peak. Actually this is considered as the highest point.

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Small shrine house for Lord Buddha

Small shrine house for Lord Buddha

We set a fire and it was easy to find dry fire wood from surrounding. Following the meal we gathered around the fire to warm our bodies. Actually it was difficult to bear cold and we were shivering.

Late in the night it was drizzling for about one hour and water dropped on our bodies. Fortunately it didn’t last much.

As it was following day of full moon Poya day the peak was bathing with moon rays.

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Another picture of sun set

Another picture of sun set

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Early morning we were able to set the fire even after the rain

Early morning we were able to set the fire even after the rain

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Believe the time is around 5am....It is   due to moon light

Believe the time is around 5am….It is due to moon light

Despite of cold we started to get down from the peak around 7am. We were able to reach the tea estate by 7.20am.

Here I would like to add couple of photographs I took in my previous hike. It is about 10years ago.

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Warming up....Those days there was a small room made by wattle and dub on the peak of the mountain. We spent the night there. Villagers have made it for shrine house for Lord Buddha. But I couldn’t see even a basement of it during this visit.

Warming up….Those days there was a small room made by wattle and dub on the peak of the mountain. We spent the night there. Villagers have made it for shrine house for Lord Buddha. But I couldn’t see even a basement of it during this visit.

Thanks for reading

 

Veiled secrecies of Nilgala (2013)

Year and Month July, 2013
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 12 (Mr Chandima the ranger, Kasun, NG, Sri , Prince, Amila and rest was my staff)
Guide Wild life officer Chandima, Driver Sumedha Mahindra cab owner
Accommodation Day 1: Seenukgala and Nilgala entranceDay 2 : Paraviyan ara camp site
Transport Mahindra cab
Activities Archeology/Trekking/Camping/Wildlife
Weather Full moon, sunny and windy
Route Bibila -> Bulupitiya -> Nilgala -> Bulupitiya-> Bibila -> Monaragala
Nilgala KMZ
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Booking the Nilgala Campsite was a challenge. Better to try and do it from Colombo rather than Inginiyagala
  • Campsite should be reserved from the Wildlife life Department head office in Baththaramulla or by directly calling the
    Nilgala wildlife office [Contact Numbers of Forest Department and Wildlife Department for Reservations] or Wildlife
    department Inginiyagala (Galoya) Office
  • We stayed at the Paraviyan ara campsite – this is a very basic camp site – we finally camped on the river bed which was
    the perfect spot.
  • Camping basics should always followed and always respect and obey the Guide(Trekker).
  • Carry adequate amount of drinking water or boil and drink river water
  • Camp fire is a must and stay awake on a roster and have the camp fire going on all night.
  • Do not take anything from the wild and do not leave anything back
  • Boat service is provided by the Inginiyagala wildlife office. You can pre-arrange it over the phone by calling the
    Inginiyagala office
  • Best time to visit is end of September.
  • A vehicle with high ground clearance in preferred
  • Thanks Priyanjan for this Google Earth Trail Map

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Mr Wimalarathna and Mr Janaka (rangers)

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

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the map

the map – Click to enlarge

There are some places one must visit and Nilgala is one of those places. Finally after 1 ½ years been to Monaragala that day seemed to be closing in. I was determined to visit Nilgala during the Esela weekend and only needed few guys to accompany me but at last I had a huge crew. First of all my office staff was ever so willing to venture on and later to be joined by few of my Lakdasun friends. Though I was disappointed with the wild life department because of all the messed up bookings, I was not going to give up this time and decided to camp the first day at the park entrance.

First of all I would like to bring forward what happened to us with the bookings of the camp sites. We initially booked Mahadoruwa camp site for two days from the Inginiyagala office over the phone. But we were told from Nilgala range office that they handle the bookings and also bookings can be done from the head office at Battaramulla. When Kasun inquired from the head office he was told that they do not handle any bookings so we decided to go ahead with the Inginiyagala office bookings. When I went to do the payment at Inginiyagala the park warden said that the camp site was booked from Colombo by another party and I was very disappointed with these guys who ruined all my plans. At that particular day they had even given bookings to 3 parties for boat rides and was wondering what to do when the parties arrived , I was also surprised to hear that the boats were functioning because few days back when I called them they said the boats were under repair and will be available only in August. I am really disappointed of the management of this park but I didn’t let these miss-happenings spoil my adventure.

We somehow packed all our stuff (specially the cooking stuff) and arrived at Bibila on a Saturday afternoon to meet up with my Lakdasun friends and set off towards Bulupitiya on the bumpy road. From Bulupitiya it was a dusty ride towards Nilgala and we were covered with dust while traversing through the Aralu, Bulu & Nelli forest. After about 12Km’s we reached the Nilgala range office where we halted and met Chandima who was introduced as our tracker for the rest of the tour. Since it was around 3pm we decided to visit Kahatatta hela which is close to the Nilgala ranger office.

To Get to Kahatatta hela we went back about 1Km and started trekking through the Nilgala forest. Within no time we reached the cave complex at the base of the rock. At this cave one can identify remnants of wall and also two rock inscriptions. After wondering around we started climbing uphill which required few pit stops. Though we got to the top in 10 minutes we had to walk a good 30mins to reach the highest point. On the way we did come across a recently demised Pangolin and it seemed to be attacked by hawks. The summit is a dream place where one could enjoy a panoramic view of Nilgala region. Some of us just fell down on the rock imagining it as our beds Image may be NSFW.
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:-P
from top of it one could appreciate a panoramic view towards Danigala, Andagala, Rathugala, Galgamuwa, Madulsima, Bulupitiya hela, Nilgala, Ul hela, Berawa hela, Makare, Wadinagala, Mullegama range, Iginiyagala reservoir and the paddy fields close to the ranger office. After enjoying some stunning scenery we set foot towards the ruins site. And it took about 20 minutes for us to get there.

The ruins site was on another end of the rock and there were remnants of about 6 buildings resembling its prosperity from the past. From here we had to rush back before we came across any wild jumbos since it was close to 5pm. After getting to the cab we felt dehydrated but some juicy Water melons did the trick.

Quote

Scattered all around were the remains of ancient structures. Legend has it that this was also one of the many places where King Dutugemunu had camped and gathered his forces as he marched on King Elara. It is also said that King Valagamba had taken refuge here.

Our next stop was Seenukgala which was very close to the Nilgala entrance but out of the park boundary, this place is a suitable place to camp if you couldn’t book any camp sites within the park. We found a nice cool calm swimming pool in Gal oya and had a swim for about an hour before getting back to the ranger office. That night we were offered camping facilities at the Nilgala office though we also had the option of camping at Seenukgala. Few of us decided to spend the night in a tree house done by the wild life officers while others camped on ground zero. At 8pm the vehicle was sent to pick up Amila from Bulupitiya and while he arrived we did have some superb dinner consisting of deviled Mannyokka Image may be NSFW.
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:-D
. The night was along one with all of those shouting going around the paddy fields plus the turbulent winds.

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Kahata aththa hela rock cave

Kahata aththa hela rock cave

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checking out an Atamba tree

checking out an Atamba tree

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ulhela resembling lakegala

ulhela resembling lakegala

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berawa hela, ul hela and wadinagala

berawa hela, ul hela and wadinagala

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Nilgala and bulupitiya hela

Nilgala and bulupitiya hela

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the paddy fields at the buffer zone

the paddy fields at the buffer zone

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Andagala and danigala range

Andagala and danigala range

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Panorama from the top of Kahata aththa hela rock

Panorama from the top of Kahata aththa hela rock

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ruins at Kahata aththa hela rock

ruins at Kahata aththa hela rock

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deviled manyokka on the fire

deviled manyokka on the fire

Next day morning produced some stunning scenery towards the paddy fields which were done by the locals of Bulupitiya. After having some rice as breakfast we decided to cross the paddy fields and reach the beautiful anicut which supplies water to these fields. On the way scenery was superb the blue and green was simply perfectly merging together. After a 20 minute walk we reached the anicut of Gal oya which was an isolated yet beautiful location which a traveler must visit.

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The Galoya National Park is situated on the border of the Eastern Province. It was way back in 1954 that this large tract of jungle covering a total of 25,900 hectares was declared a national park. In fact it constitutes the upper watersheds of the Senanayake Samudra, the key irrigation facility of the Galoya Project. It has also become a refuge for all the wildlife displaced by the settlement scheme.

At one end of the park is Nilgala. The rolling savannah is surrounded by a ring of hills, the more famous among them being Danigala. Yakunge Hela, Nilgala, Bulu Hela, Endagala, Kahatatta Hela, Guru Hela and Akuna Hela are the other peaks in this range.

The diversity ranges from tiny lizards to elephants. But unlike other such reserves, Nilgala has to be approached on foot. As wondrous as the sudden sighting of an elephant is as one weaves one’s path around the Aralu, Bulu Nelli and through the tall mana grass, a certain degree of caution has to be exercised for the dangers are many. Any excursion, then, has adventure written into the unfolding script.

Within the protected area there lies a large tract of paddy land. Legend has it that the ancestors of the present day farming families had arrived in the area fleeing from the marauding British troops that ran riot to quell the Wellasssa Rebellion. Needless to say, these lands have always been threatened by elephant attacks, especially in the context of dwindling feeding grounds for the threatened creature.

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Nilgala and bulupitiya hela over the paddy fields

Nilgala and bulupitiya hela over the paddy fields

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the beauty of the blue sky

the beauty of the blue sky

After returning back we packed up and entered the park and on the way through the beautiful landscape of Aralu, Bulu, Nelli and mana we reached a spot where the Mukkuru tomb (sohana) could be found. We really were puzzled about its origin and even our trekker didn’t know why it was called Mukkuru sohana. Not so far away from it and very close to Madugasthalawa (where plenty of Madu trees could be seen) we came across few boulders which were said to be remains of ancient Kalugalbemma road which King Dutugemunu used to travel towards Polonnaruwa side.

Our camp site Paraviyan ara was very close to the jeep track and there was a sand platform plus a toilet with a nonfunctioning tap line and it seemed to be a camp site which not many prefers to stay. Our tracker suggested that we could camp at the river bed which was the perfect place to camp in the end. Simply the river bed was a magical place and the only obstacle was carrying stuff towards it. On one side we were bordered by the deep river and no animal could reach us from there, we only had to worry about the opposite side. Within no time our specialist cooks started cooking and the knives and the coconut scrapers were working like machines while the eggs were boiling on the fire. After having a cool dip for many hours a perfect lunch (noodles) satisfied our hunger.

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the path through the forest

the path through the forest

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ancient Kalugal bemma road which King dutugemunu used.

ancient Kalugal bemma road which King dutugemunu used.

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thanks kasun for this capture

thanks kasun for this capture

At around 2.30pm we started to walk towards Makare which was already been crowded due to the long weekend. First we reached “Stage Wella” where day camping is allowed it was just like Mount lavinia beach and the difference was the people who were all local villagers around Bibila. We did walk about the Rocky River to enjoy some stunning rock formations. It’s like walking along a 3D painting and one should not miss this place. Next it was a 200m walk towards the reservoir through the forest and on the way we did note the “Gilma” where the mighty river disappears under the rocks to re immerge at Makara kata (makare) out of nowhere. It is fascinating to note the river seems to be blocked at this exit point with these huge boulders. Once we emerged at Makare it was all sand but no rocks and once a year this layer of sand keeps renewing itself and one could appreciate the in between humus levels too. We decided to venture in to the Makara kata and that was a fascinating experience. The saddest part was seen the drunken locals misbehaving worse than any wild animal on earth and I think the poor rangers are facing difficulties in handling them because most of them been locals. Strict laws on Alcohol use should be a must at Gal oya and hope the authorities will take necessary steps.

Next we decided to venture further on to see the ruins of Andayampola fortress which was a 30 minute walk through boulders and the muddy reservoir. It seemed to be a wall like structure done by rocks placed on top of each other and there were no ruins of buildings to see around. On our way we heard a bears cry but was not lucky to see one jumbo even thanks to those drunken guys who were screaming around. We reached the camp site at dusk and set up a good camp fire before the cooking session begun. While the popcorn was popping few of us had a dip in the river enjoying the rays of the full moon. That night we slept without any interruptions thanks to the comfortable sand bed.

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walking towards stage wella (makara day camping site)

walking towards stage wella (makara day camping site)

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Gilma where the river disappears

Gilma where the river disappears

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 it meets the mightiest reservoir

it meets the mightiest reservoir

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where the water appears from

where the water appears from

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drackula island and mount inginiyagala

drackula island and mount inginiyagala

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water levels starting to drop

water levels starting to drop

Next day morning the rays of the sun were creeping through the braches producing beautiful photographic opportunities. After having some rice with papadam and stuff we had another morning session in the river before deciding to leave this luxuries paradise. I must thank my staff for the superb food they cooked which made this camping trip to Nilgala much more special than it looked. Saying good bye to King Budhdhadasa’s herbal paradise we headed towards Monaragala on a Ceylon takaran bus which seemed to be reserved only for us and a “komadu dansala” plus the “sawu dansala” which the bus stopped at confirmed it.

Thanks for reading guys!

 

Long Range Reconnaissance Patrol… – Meemure & Narangamuwa

Year and Month July, 2013 (12th to 15th)
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew 3 on 12 & 13 July & 4 on 14 & 15 July (Age: Classified) - Tony, Lasantha, Dimuthu and Me with our helpful host Nava mama
Accommodation Nava Mama’s House (081-3804191) – Best place to stay with a real village experience with typical village food.
Transport
  • Colombo – Kandy – Train
  • Kandy – Hunnasgiriya – Bus
  • Hunnasgiriya – Meemure – Nava Mama’s Tuk-Tuk
  • Around Meemure – On Foot
  • Back to Hunnasgiriya – Nava Mama’s Tuk-Tuk
  • Hunnasgiriya – Colombo via Kandy – Bus
Activities Photography, Hiking, Experiencing Village Life Style, Etc.
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Hunnasgiriya -> Meemure and return on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • From Hunnasgiriya to Meemure, there’s a Van around 1.30pm. But if you wanna visit Deanston Mini World’s End and Dothalugala, ask Nava Mama to send his Tuk-tuk. Don’t hire one from Hunnasgiriya as they’re bound to rob you in broad daylight.
  • If you visit Dothalugala, you have to buy the tickets at Deanston Knuckles Conservation Centre. 25/- each.
  • There even is a camp site at Dothalugala about 2km away from the road which you can book. Also they have a cabin as well about 1.8km away. If the camp site or cabin is booked, KCC might not allow you to visit this trail, if they do; they might give you a guide (Please check in advance). You can book these from Forest Department head office or Kandy sub office.
  • Meemure now boasts Electricity thanks to Ana and Wije.
  • Call Nava mama in advance and get an idea as to what you can do within your time frame. He’ll come up with a workable solution making full use of your time and stay there. Don’t forget to check the weather as well because if it’s raining, the whole journey might be ruined.
  • Please don’t bring back any plants no matter how beautiful they look. They won’t survive anywhere else. So please leave them be.
  • Always better to go about with an experienced guide like Nava mama who knows the whole area like the back of his hand.
  • Meemure boasts the tastiest water (according to me) and you don’t need to carry plenty of water. Just one or two bottles will do as there are plenty of waterways to refill. Something to bite like biscuits won’t go amiss when you’re on a hike. I was later kicking myself for forgetting this.
  • You need Leech protection for Dothalugala. In Meemure, there are in the rainy season (which you should avoid) and in the dry season, hardly any leeches.
  • Take millions of pics and leave only the foot prints. Don’t leave polythene or plastic.
Related Resources
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Sampath, Sampath; get up, get up. You’re talking in your dream.” – My mother shakes me. I try to open my eyes and they are glued to the eye sockets.
“Who’s Lakegala?” – She keeps at it.
“What?” – I can’t make head nor tail of this.
“You were talking in your dream calling Lakegala. Who’s that?” – She is not about to give up on my dream talking.
I start giggling like a kid who got caught with Candy in his pajamas.
“What are you giggling at? Who’s Lakegala?” – She’s now highly suspicious.
“What’s going on” – My brother and grandma join the fun.
“Amma, Lakegala is not someone. It’s a rocky mountain in Meemure” – I can hardly get the words out.
“He’s crazy. Going around the country and now talking to them in his dreams not letting us get a decent night’s sleep.” – Typical grandma too wants big chunk of this pie.
“Amma, how can a girl be called Lakegala” – My brother wants to make a mockery out of this now. However little does he know that I always refer to Lakegala as her.
“Get back to sleep. Make sure you say Ithipiso Gatha before you do” – Mum warns and I duly oblige amid my hysterical laughs.

“Bambu Sema Thena Thena Gal Kanu Seduna
Sembu Sema E Matha Olugedi Thenuna
Thembu Diya Sema Anga Dahadiya Galana
Bambu Gala Medin Api Meemure Yanna”

“Epita Konata Kandupana Keleya
Mepita Konata Lakgala Meemureya
Desiya Dekak Usa Ethi Gomareya
Hondai Parakas Laka Meemureya”

Belu Belu Sathara Wata Us Kandu Getaya
Kandukara Idamwala Enasal Pala Baraya
Pasekin Yodayeku Men Ethi Lak Galaya
Me Hema Medin Aththe Meemuraya”

Nava mama’s voice was still echoing in my ear when I went back to my dream world. Gosh I miss Lakegala that much.

—I just typed up a recent conversation in my house late in the night with my family. Sampath is what my family and neighbors call me at home if you wonder who Sampath was.—

I left you in Kandy with my last report and hopefully you’ve read it by the time this comes online. I was furious with my friend Dimuthu when he got late to arrive in Fort and Tony and I had to leave him to find his own way to Kandy. Fortunately we managed to have a fruitful time in Kandy visiting Garrison Cemetery and National Museum, Kandy.

So Dimuthu came to Kandy around 10.30am and Tony and I joined him at the station. I’ve my bunnies (not mine actually) at the front garden of the station and I always make it a point to go see them possibly with some carrots too. Unfortunately this time I didn’t come across any vegetable vendors so had to visit them empty handed.

To my both disappointment and amazement, there were new bunnies. I was frantically searching for my old fellows without success. What happened to them? I had no idea and didn’t wanna check with those rude tickets issuing people at the station. Hope nothing bad had befallen on them. There were a bunch of new fellows very cute and I felt like cuddling them to me. Tony practically had to drag me out and we came to the bus stand looking for a Mahiyangana-bound bus. There was one filled to the brim and almost bursting at seams but we had no choice but to hop in squeezing in between sweating passengers.

I was still having that darn fever in me and found it very difficult to stand but there were no seats reserved for sick people no matter how much I tried to find one. The bus getting cramped like a lorry full of sand and conductor kept pushing and shouting to go back and forth. The fact that we’d not had any decent breakfast let alone lunch didn’t improve things. After a lot of huffing puffing we reached Hunnasgiriya as tired as racing horses panting nineteen to the dozen.

I called Nava mama but he was at the power plant overseeing the restored hydro power project with the help of Ana and Wije and his wife said Upali (one of their cousin son) is there waiting for us. So we went to Disage Kade (Disa’s Shop – this is where Meemure and Kaikawala vans stop) to have some lunch and met Upali too.

We ordered lunch and gobbled it down hungrily and I had a handful of tablets to go with it. Yuck yuck yucky… All of a sudden my phone started singing just before I put it flight mode. Dana was calling and I was wondering what it could be.

“Hey Dana, what’s up?” – That’s me.
“How are you feeling? Heard you suffering from fever” – Gosh how on earth he knows.
“I’m ok buddy, now in Hunnasgiriya getting ready to go to Meemure” – I couldn’t hide my surprise.
“Are you serious? Going to Meemure when you are down with fever? You’re nuts man” – Couldn’t agree with him more.
“I had to Dana, coz I can’t miss out on Meemure” – A darn fever wasn’t going to hold be back from visiting my beloved Meemure.
“Gosh, good luck then” – I knew I was gonna need so much of that.

Afterwards we bought some provisions for the journey (I was kicking later myself for not buying some biscuits) and got into the tuk-tuk with Upali putting my phone on Flight mode for the next 80 hours (you gotta believe me)

I had everything planned and our first stop was Knuckles Conservation Center (KCC) at Deanston for the Dothalugala trail. I had done Mini World’s End trail before and had no intention of doing that again. Tony kept saying that he’s going back to Meemure after more than two and a half decade (now you can guess his age coz it’s classified info) and was mesmerized by the roads.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Dothalugala Nature Trail
  2. Toddy Tapping
  3. Nitro Caves Trail
  4. Trekking along the Na Ela from Nitro Cave
  5. Re-awakening Meemure – Re-stored Hydro Power Project
  6. Meemure – Reassa Trail
  7. Reassa – Narangamuwa Trail
  8. Narangamuwa – Meemure Circular Trail
  9. Alternative Energy – Dendro Power Plant

Day 01

Listening to Tony’s old stories we were soon at the KCC and got down to buy the tickets and leave our baggage coz we couldn’t risk leaving our bags inside the tuk-tuk. We bought tickets from the friendly officer there and left our baggage inside his office. Fortunately there were only a couple of hikers already on the Dothalugala trail so we were pretty much alone.

Dothalugala Trail

The trail head is about 500m away from the KCC towards Meemure and we decided to take the tuk-tuk and arrived at the gate. (Be warned: if the gate is locked just don’t panic or run back to the office. Just pull it hard and it’s bound to unlock itself. On our way back we had a funny experience with the gate).

There was the sign giving the distance to the camp site and cabin (2km and 1.8km respectively) and we managed to get the tuk-tuk onto this track as well. We found that he path right up to the Dothalugala cabin (1.8km) is easily accessible by a tuk-tuk and no problem with a Jeep or double cab. I really can’t tell you if it’s possible to do it with a van but I see why not.

The winds were coming from all the directions trying to push us away and we instantly felt so chilly as if we were in N’Eliya. Just remember when you were in World’s End amid strong winds and the experience is very similar there. We were hugging ourselves trying to retain what’s left of our body warmth. The scenery around, let me tell you, is absolutely a treat to the eyes. It will soothe your mind and body as if you were meditating or doing Yoga.

The mist was coming down from the top of Dothalugala Mountain enveloping us and then flying away towards the mountains afar. The sky was in two colors, slate grey towards the Dothalugala and bright blue away from it, what a contrast. We kept snapping away while Upali followed us in the tuk-tuk ever so slowly. Around halfway through, we decided to leave it behind as we wanted to feel the surrounding and take hundreds of pics not bothering with the vehicle.

To my surprise we found that our driver Upali, being a Meemure fellow, had never been to Dothalugala. Last time, Chanaka our then tuk-tuk driver said he did the Mini World’s End trail for the first time with us. It was so strange and maybe they don’t value things like that as much as we do since they are living in those areas.

The path was grass covered and a leech or two kept disturbing us (we didn’t know the reception party was waiting patiently at Dothalugala upper trail). Tony kept talking about Prince a.k.a. Kumaraya (by now you know him who’s suffering from leech phobia) and he’d have run all the way to Meemure had he come across a leech or two.

As given correctly on the sign board at the entrance, we were soon at a small stream which ran across the path and just beyond that we saw the camouflage structure painted in dark green which was the cabin. Fortunately nobody had booked it so it was all alone. We decided to have some water and fill our containers at the waterline there. The board giving GPS coordinates said the altitude is 1177m.

Cabin consists of two parts; the kitchen is separate from the sleeping areas where 12 people can stay. It was amid a tiny patch of forest so pretty much hidden inside. About another 50m away, you come to an opening where the trail is divided into three just like a “Thrishul”. The left and middle tracks join one another making a circular trail just like Mini World’s End. The left one is 2.3km in length up to the top and the middle one is 2.2km (making the total length 4.5km) to the top.

The right path takes you to the camp beds about 100m away and around midway folks into two making the left one taking you to the camp beds while the right one takes you to Bird Watching deck. This bird watching deck ends up at a waterfall (which I duly named Dothalugala Ella) with a natural pool for a cool dip.

We chose the middle path and went up through the forest patches and bushes on and off. The path was infested with leeches and Tony was initially protected by the denim jeans but later he found a few leeches underneath that. Somehow or the other, he had gotten the ability to separate leeches gender wise at the end of the journey. According to his findings, he was mostly bitten by female leeches for some reason or the other. Dimuthu was the most affected by leech attacks making his shoes a pool of blood but for some strange reason I was spared maybe I was leading the track all along.

We kept going higher and higher passing breath taking views of the mountains afar and tiny cascades flowing across the path. The path was marked every 100m making it easy to know how far you’ve come and how much more to go. After about an hour, we reached the top. It was nothing much but a small clearing covering all around with thick forest. They had put up GPS coordinates there. The altitude said 1407m. So it was a climb of 230m over 2.2km. Pretty steady one might think.

Then it was time to come down along the other path as there was nothing much we could do amid the forest and thickening mist. We were practically chilled to the marrow and didn’t wanna hang around anymore. When we were coming down, we passed heavy landslides which had taken huge rocks, trees and chunks of earth downhill.

Tony was pretty scared and wanted to cross that bit fairly quickly. We took about another 45mins to get back to the “Thrishul” junction and I was frantically searching for the waterfall. While Tony, Dimuthu and Upali were buys plucking leeches, I took the right path towards camping beds and it forked into two about 50m away and the right hand side said bird watching deck. Further along, there was a sign saying Natural Pool 500m and I could faintly hear the water hitting the rocks. My heart leaped and I rushed through to find this beautiful waterfall coming down creating a grand base pool ideal to have a cool dip on a hot summer day.

All the others missed this thanks to leeches. I was very happy to see this beauty and duly named her Dothalugala Falls. Then it was about another 1km to the tuk-tuk where we had left it. I wish we had taken it further up making the downhill journey easy. We noticed that the tuk-tuk had moved about 20ft and was wondering what had come over it. By the time we reached the gate, it was closed with a padlock.

I was beginning to worry coz it was starting to get dark and we were long overdue to arrive in Meemure as Nava mama was waiting for us. I ran to the KCC about 500m away to find the office is closed. Oh my gosh, how on earth we were gonna get the gate open and take the tuk-tuk out, what happened to our bags, I was near fainting. There were officers’ quarters across the road and they were empty. I ran here and there knocking on doors and windows but no one was there. I felt as if I’m acting in a ghost movie. I ran again to the back of the main building and there was a shower stall and to my amazement and annoyance, the fella who issued us tickets was brushing his teeth. He’d been in the toilet all that time and told me he had brought the bags to the bungalow and all we had to do was pull hard on the padlock and it would come off.

Feeling sheer frustrated, I ran back to the gate pulled hard on the padlock and away it came like a hot knife through butter. We came back to the KCC, collected our baggage and hit the road towards Meemure. It was going past 5.30pm we had to hurry coz we still had more than 25km to get there and the darkness can be pretty hazardous on that road.

Having travelled about 5km, Upali stopped the tuk-tuk all of a sudden to find that the left back tire had got a puncture. Fortunately, the spare wheel was there and another 15 mins time we were away finally leaving all the bad luck behind us.

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What a wonderful song; never heard it though

What a wonderful song; never heard it though

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Top of Dothalugala was covered with mist right throughout

Top of Dothalugala was covered with mist right throughout

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Towards Loolwatte, beyond these mountains are the Kaikawala and Meemure villages

Towards Loolwatte, beyond these mountains are the Kaikawala and Meemure villages

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Little did we know that this was gonna be the hikes of our lives totaling 100+km in four days...

Little did we know that this was gonna be the hikes of our lives totaling 100+km in four days…

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Unbelievable scenery all along

Unbelievable scenery all along

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The sky towards the valley was very blue with artistic clouds

The sky towards the valley was very blue with artistic clouds

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Tony shooting his next movie. (Flying wihtout Wings)

Tony shooting his next movie. (Flying wihtout Wings)

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Unfortunately, the wood getting rotten

Unfortunately, the wood getting rotten

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Please adhere to this wherever you go

Please adhere to this wherever you go

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Getting closer to the Cabin premises

Getting closer to the Cabin premises

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The waterway just before the cabin

The waterway just before the cabin

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There it is... slightly above is the kitchen

There it is… slightly above is the kitchen

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Peeping through the window into the cabin

Peeping through the window into the cabin

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This has some valuable info

This has some valuable info – Click Image to Enlarge

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The kitchen door wide open so I decided to have a peek in search of something hot

The kitchen door wide open so I decided to have a peek in search of something hot

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The Opening after the cabin. See the "Thrishul" shaped tracks. The left and middle connect to create the circular trail and the right trail with stones takes you to camp beds and the Dothalugala falls

The Opening after the cabin. See the “Thrishul” shaped tracks. The left and middle connect to create the circular trail and the right trail with stones takes you to camp beds and the Dothalugala falls

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We chose the middle path; according to this the right one

We chose the middle path; according to this the right one

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Beginning of a 4.5km leech-infested trek

Beginning of a 4.5km leech-infested trek

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The forest welcome us with both hands

The forest welcome us with both hands

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Tony, Dimuthu and Upali bringing the rear. This was his first-ever Dothalugala trek

Tony, Dimuthu and Upali bringing the rear. This was his first-ever Dothalugala trek

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There hadn't been many visitors lately

There hadn’t been many visitors lately

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Anyone there in the burrow?

Anyone there in the burrow?

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Different shapes; different sizes

Different shapes; different sizes

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Just like a perimeter wall protecting the whole area

Just like a perimeter wall protecting the whole area

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My favourite places to picture.... young paddy fields captured from almost top of Dothalugala

My favourite places to picture…. young paddy fields captured from almost top of Dothalugala

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Tiring journey but Mist and fresh air kept us revived

Tiring journey but Mist and fresh air kept us revived

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Tony trying to squeeze the dust out of "Dum Gedi"

Tony trying to squeeze the dust out of “Dum Gedi”

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Tiny cascades were coming down all around

Tiny cascades were coming down all around

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The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

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The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

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Rising majestically and uncontested

Rising majestically and uncontested

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It must be close now coz fever is getting at me big time

It must be close now coz fever is getting at me big time

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Grapes??? Not a chance but like that green

Grapes??? Not a chance but like that green

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The last bit before the top

The last bit before the top

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45 Finally at the top but all around is covered by the trees and hardly any gap

45 Finally at the top but all around is covered by the trees and hardly any gap

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We reached slightly behind our schedule

We reached slightly behind our schedule

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Getting down in a hurry fighting leeches all the way

Getting down in a hurry fighting leeches all the way

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Land slides in side the forest

Land slides in side the forest

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Our path was washed away and Tony trying his gymnastic skills to cross over

Our path was washed away and Tony trying his gymnastic skills to cross over

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Couldn't get enough of this blue sky

Couldn’t get enough of this blue sky

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Leech attacks while Tony was deducing the gender balance among leeches

Leech attacks while Tony was deducing the gender balance among leeches

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The right trail at the beginning

The right trail at the beginning

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It forked into two and the right one leading pass bird watching deck to the waterfall

It forked into two and the right one leading pass bird watching deck to the waterfall

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Not much water but enough to keep me interested

Not much water but enough to keep me interested

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Enough to have three tents

Enough to have three tents

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Getting towards the locked gate and all the chaos

Getting towards the locked gate and all the chaos

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At the KCC, while searching for somebody frantically, I couldn't help taking these

At the KCC, while searching for somebody frantically, I couldn’t help taking these

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Time to go, getting dark by the second

Time to go, getting dark by the second

We reached Meemure around 7.30pm and to my happiness Nava Mama’s house were illuminating with Electricity. Not Solar powered but by the re-stored hydro power plant. What can more I could’ve wished than lighting those people’s lives? I felt like jumping in the air and shouting from the top of Lakegala and say that we did it. Lakdasun forum helped bring this issue to Ana and Wije and as a result those innocent people got benefited. What a feat?

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Nava mama telling his signature stories in the light now.... No more candles or dim-looking solar powered lights

Nava mama telling his signature stories in the light now…. No more candles or dim-looking solar powered lights

Nava mama came and gave us a warm welcome and his wife had prepared our meals and got worried us being late. After a quick wash we started chatting with Nava mama and he was very grateful for Ana and Wije for helping them out at that crucial time. Tony got very well along with Nava mama and they started talking about good old times about three decades before how the village was and all.

The time flew listening to their stories coz they were so interesting and I was practically hooked. It was during this conversation Tony asked if I knew how the drummers at Perahera got their beats or rhythms for which I had no idea. Then he described in the past those drummers had no particular rhythm to play their instruments and went on to reveal how the Thammatam players and later drummers (the chubby one, probably Yak Beraya) and later Horane players learned their beats. If you meet Tony, don’t forget to ask about this and the story related to this. Hopefully he’ll feel obliged to confide in you.

I then called Lasantha, my friend who was due to arrive on the following day, giving him directions and Upali’s contact number. I asked Nava mama to send Upali around 11am to Hunnasgiriya to pick him.

Finally around 11.30pm, we decided to call it a day and hit the bed. We had planned a long day for the following day and wanted to get our heads down as soon as we can for as long as possible. I was so happy that we could use real electricity coz I can remember last time we had to use the washroom in the candle light. We had to sit in the dark in his Verandah listening to his grand stories but those were things in the past. I hope before sleeping that those things will remain in the past and not bother them ever.

 

Day 02

Toddy Tapping

Tony usually gets up very early and I too joined him and the morning sun was up and fresh air mixed with bright sunlight was leaking through the window and the door hinges. We could hear birds chirping and leaves rustling in the morning wind. Such a relief to be among the nature away from the concrete jungle. The mobile that usually keeps ringing was at peace finally sleeping next to me on flight mode. I’m sure he too would’ve enjoyed this quietness away from yelling via him all the time.

I got up and came out to see Nava mama busy at work. He’d found a pot and was busily tying a wire around it making sure to hold it in place. When I asked what it was for, he surprised me by saying that he’s gonna do some toddy tapping and I can take pics. I asked during my last visit if it was possible to see one of them and he’d remembered. How nice and I just go my camera and started snapping away. He got the razor sharp knife in a handmade sheath and put it on the small of the back tucking it firmly into his sarong.

The tree was just behind the house and Tony joined me in seeing this miracle. He went to the base of the tree and did the typical rituals and started climbing up along the pole (most of these are bamboos) tied to the trunk of the tree with creepers (not strings or ropes) and the toddy pot hanging in one arm. It was so scary and fascinating sight too and I couldn’t take my eyes off. For a second I forgot that I was supposed to take pics.

When he reached the top, he started clearing about chopping away the dead leaves and settled nicely on a branch of a tree. Then removed the previous morning bucket and started cutting away at the flower. It was like a half-cut cauliflower and looked very brown and polished due to continuous cutting. Then when he was satisfied with the work he’d performed on the flower, replaced the bucket under the flower which was there with the new one and covered it with a polythene sheet in order to stop flies getting into the pot and came down. Throughout the day the freshly cut flower will pour juice into the pot.

Meanwhile Tony was playing Miss Meemure with a long Kithula Mala placing it on his head like long haired African beauty. Then it was time for us to go and have our breakfast coz we had a long day ahead of us doing one of the very difficult hikes around Meemure.

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Major incomes are generated by these

Major incomes are generated by these

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Garden fresh and we frequently had these.... Daiiiiiyaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Garden fresh and we frequently had these…. Daiiiiiyaaaaaaaaaaaaa

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Horn of a Wild Boar, very strong

Horn of a Wild Boar, very strong

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Early morning, busy at work

Early morning, busy at work

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Finally on top, had to run here and there to get a good clear shot

Finally on top, had to run here and there to get a good clear shot

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Cutting away at the flower

Cutting away at the flower

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Bunch of ropes or a cauliflower cut in half???

Bunch of ropes or a cauliflower cut in half???

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Tying polythene cover around to protect from flies and bees

Tying polythene cover around to protect from flies and bees

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Everything done and dusted

Everything done and dusted

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The African beauty with her wavy hair...

The African beauty with her wavy hair…

Nitro Cave Trail

Having witnessed firsthand how to tap toddy trees, we started on our breakfast while Nava mama’s wife was busy getting something ready for our lunch. However, Nava mama protested saying it won’t be hot and fresh by the time we have it midday and instead asked for some flour dough to make Roti at the cave. This immediately appealed to all of us and Tony was a strong supporter of this and with all our votes, his wife had to give in but warned us not catching a stomachache by eating raw flour.

Nava mama wrapped it in a plastic sheet and plucked some fresh chilies you saw above along with tomatoes and onions to go with roti. A flat iron plate was also packed to cook roti and we were ready to go. We could’ve taken the tuk-tuk about a halfway through but decided walk instead along the road passing Kaikawala too.

Morning walk was so refreshing and we enjoyed every bit of it. Tony was getting friendly with all the dogs along the road and they chose to follow him at a safe distance with contempt. The concrete paved road right up to our breaking point passing Kaikawala (Barber shop) helped us immensely coz the strenuous bit was yet to come. Nava mama showed us the canal made by villagers that take water through the village to the hydro power plant. The side walls are fractured in places and need to be renovated sooner rather than later as precious water is leaking through the gaps.

We stopped by the sign saying the Meemure sub post office is nearby. Then walked passing Kaikawala School where they have till GCE OL. At the huge bridge of Kaikawala, we stopped by the “Kaikawala Falls” (named by us and many more waterfalls had to be named on our trek downhill along Heen Ganga) and Nava mama wanted to show off his rock sliding skills. To my horror, Tony’s camera fell on the rock and my heart skipped a beat. However, Dimuthu managed to fix the issue and got it back working to my relief. What’s point going there without a camera? Then Nava mama came down the rock surface of Kaikawala falls (about 20+ft) and swam away in the base pool.

This time I duly recorded the action and posted it on YouTube. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeLtBscfCbE&feature=em-upload_owner)

Afterwards, we stepped up our gear and walked and entered a cross road at the Kaikawala barber shop and went through the village passing paddy fields and people working in the scorching hot sun. Lakegala was watching us from afar and she looked happy to see me again. There were so many other mountains surrounding us and it all looked like protecting Meemure and Kaikawala from the wicked world outside.

The highest mountain in the Knuckles region Gombani could also be seen and just below her was the Belum Gala which Nava mama said that we could climb and now it’s in my never ending to-do-list. Either side of Gombani were Andirigala (at the bottom is Nava mama’s house), Kalawel Bokka, Appala Pathana, Hellena Gala (like a parrot head) and Lakegala standing tall like bodyguards of the Great King, Ravana. We reached Ma Oya and crossed over on to the other side which is Hunuketadegalaha Village (don’t twist your tongue trying to pronounce that) and found yet another waterfall about 100m upstream.

Such a great beauty flowing down and in the middle as if jumping up before falling down again. We couldn’t think of a better name than Hunuketadegalaha Falls… Sorry folks if it’s difficult to say. The terrain got so difficult afterwards and we kept pushing to the limits, especially the youngest fellow in our team didn’t show a bit tired. We then came to the Na Ela Junction where there four tracks meet. (Kalugala, Karambaketiya, Na Ela and Kaikawala via Hunuketadegalaha)

We took the left leading to Na Ela and soon as we turned there was this small house and a girl was making Jaggery out of toddy on the specially designed stove. Having refilled our water bottle and getting a much needed break we decided to take the track towards Nitro Cave. Passing a bunt we came to the Na Ela which goes downhill till she merges with Heen Ganga between Kaikawala and Meemure. This is where I felt like kicking myself for not taking anything, even some biscuits coz we were ravenous after a tiring walk but only the refreshing water of Na Ela was there.

Tony and I gave a water therapy for our battered legs while Dimuthu went in search of fish and prawns in the waterway without success. The wind was so comforting and there was this tiny waterfall about 15ft and you know the drill by now. She is now “Nitro Falls”, named by us. I felt like sleeping on the rock surface but we had a deadline to meet and we couldn’t waste anytime cooking our Roti here. So motivated by ever-growing hunger, we hit the last bit of our journey climbing up though the dense forest about 2-3km to the destination, Nitro Cave. The path hadn’t been used lately but still visible and Nava mama had more senses we could imagine so there was no fear of getting lost.

Finally, Eureka, the Cave was visible and we stepped on the gas. It was a huge cave jutting out of a rocky mountain and now occupied by many thousands of bats who got very angry by our intrusion. You can climb up and see the inside of the cave even though there’s nothing much other than hundreds of tons of bat excrement but the place looked lived on. There were a couple of sticks to help you get on to the rock slab from where you can see the mountains far away, especially my beloved Lakegala showing herself beautifully.

We came down and along the rocky path went a bit up and came across a huge wasp nest full of wasps and had to be careful not to arouse them. Finally we settled about 100m away where there was this tiny stream of water and got busy with our Roti making. Dimuthu and Nava mama got busy making a hearth with rocks while Tony got all the stuff out and started washing onions, tomatoes and chilies. If you wonder then what I was doing, just picturing all this was my duty and they were better at what they did and didn’t wanna be a nuisance.

We found some dry twigs and got the fire going and on top went the flat iron roti maker and Nava mama was busy breaking small balls out of the dough and spreading it evenly on the surface and putting it this side and the other nicely burning both sides and I was getting mighty hungry. Tony and Dimuthu started making our Salad with freshly cut onions, chilies and tomatoes and Nava mama had brought an orange to supplement lime and we were good to go. The lunch was superb and we tucked in like a pack of wolves and what a feast it turned out to be.

I managed to record a short video and uploaded it to YouTube and it’s here for you to check.

The tasty water made our thirst and tiredness vanish into thin air and we were ready to get back after about 10min break. It was one helluva hike and we were looking forward to the return journey when Nava mama surprised us by asking if we wanna take a different route to the village. I’d never dream of saying no, so was Tony and Dimuthu and we were soon on our way towards Na Ela where we were supposed to get along the Na Ela till we came up to Heen Ganga about 8km downhill.

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You know who these are. In the middle is not a cowboy but our Nava mama

You know who these are. In the middle is not a cowboy but our Nava mama

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An aggressive water buffalo won't let us pass. See the pinkish ears, but don’t think you can see the steam rising through the nostrils

An aggressive water buffalo won’t let us pass. See the pinkish ears, but don’t think you can see the steam rising through the nostrils

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About 100m away... now lightened free of charge by Meemure Society

About 100m away… now lightened free of charge by Meemure Society

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Nava mama showing us the man-made canal that takes water to the Hydro power plant... it needs restoration too as the bunt is fractured in many places leaking precious water

Nava mama showing us the man-made canal that takes water to the Hydro power plant… it needs restoration too as the bunt is fractured in many places leaking precious water

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Mountains beyond Kaikawala

Mountains beyond Kaikawala

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Sliding down captured simultaneously recording

Sliding down captured simultaneously recording

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The mountains in the horizon

The mountains in the horizon

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Side view glance at Kaikawala Falls

Side view glance at Kaikawala Falls

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Endless mountains with lush greenery

Endless mountains with lush greenery

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Heading towards Ma Oya crossing point

Heading towards Ma Oya crossing point

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Here we are, water levels were low so crossing was no prob.... You can see pillars down which are the remains of a bridge yet to be built

Here we are, water levels were low so crossing was no prob…. You can see pillars down which are the remains of a bridge yet to be built

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Cool water helped us replenish our stocks

Cool water helped us replenish our stocks

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There she's jumping in the middle

There she’s jumping in the middle

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She's small but gorgeous

She’s small but gorgeous

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A friendly person we met on the river bank

A friendly person we met on the river bank

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Pano with the mountain range. (From left: Hellena Gala, Kalawal Bokka, Gombaniya, Belum Gala, Andirigala, Appala Pathana)... Hope I got them all correct

Pano with the mountain range. (From left: Hellena Gala, Kalawal Bokka, Gombaniya, Belum Gala, Andirigala, Appala Pathana)… Hope I got them all correct

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Gombani in the middle and towards her right slope is the Belum Gala

Gombani in the middle and towards her right slope is the Belum Gala

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Na Ela Junction (Tony-Kalugala footpath through the forest// Nava Mama-Karambaketiya//Dimuthu-Na Ela//Me-Kaikawala)

Na Ela Junction (Tony-Kalugala footpath through the forest// Nava Mama-Karambaketiya//Dimuthu-Na Ela//Me-Kaikawala)

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Single-horned beast found at Na Ela

Single-horned beast found at Na Ela

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What a simple house; This is where we met that girl making Jaggery

What a simple house; This is where we met that girl making Jaggery

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I'm sure you recognize this.... the fella wearing this decided to abandon it

I’m sure you recognize this…. the fella wearing this decided to abandon it

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Jaggery stove made out of a barrel

Jaggery stove made out of a barrel

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Jaggery getting thicken ever so slowly

Jaggery getting thicken ever so slowly

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I suppose you can't call this a Skeleton of a Butterfly

I suppose you can’t call this a Skeleton of a Butterfly

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The bunt doesn't have enough water to retain

The bunt doesn’t have enough water to retain

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There can't be a beautiful mountain than her

There can’t be a beautiful mountain than her

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Committing suicide... I removed the fella but he went back to the water... must've been let down by his wife.... (Tony, the animal specialist, confirmed this)

Committing suicide… I removed the fella but he went back to the water… must’ve been let down by his wife…. (Tony, the animal specialist, confirmed this)

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There's the Nitro Ella, about 15ft

There’s the Nitro Ella, about 15ft

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Not much water but enough to look nice

Not much water but enough to look nice

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Commander is checking the path ahead

Commander is checking the path ahead

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A much relieved Tony looking flabbergasted at the cave

A much relieved Tony looking flabbergasted at the cave

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Nava mama, not a bit tired, carrying onto the cave

Nava mama, not a bit tired, carrying onto the cave

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We made a Toy Red Indian with a feather and a mushroomy stick

We made a Toy Red Indian with a feather and a mushroomy stick

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The cave is jutting out of the rock

The cave is jutting out of the rock

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Climbed up Nava mama and Tony in the background busily picturing

Climbed up Nava mama and Tony in the background busily picturing

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Nava Mama's skills helping to explore the unreachable

Nava Mama’s skills helping to explore the unreachable

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The ground is covered with sand mixed bat excrement with worms

The ground is covered with sand mixed bat excrement with worms

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Getting down was yet another fiasco

Getting down was yet another fiasco

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Finally some breathing space

Finally some breathing space

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The rock carves in further

The rock carves in further

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Met a similar fella at Morning Side too

Met a similar fella at Morning Side too

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Going further up looking for a place to make lunch

Going further up looking for a place to make lunch

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The tiny water stream where we collected ours....

The tiny water stream where we collected ours….

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The fire is on fire and our dough is resting and onions and other stuff ready for chopping

The fire is on fire and our dough is resting and onions and other stuff ready for chopping

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Busy at work.... Nava mama very good at it

Busy at work…. Nava mama very good at it

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All three busily doing the final touches....

All three busily doing the final touches….

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United black ants carrying their share

United black ants carrying their share

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Good bye.... got a long way back

Good bye…. got a long way back

Trekking along the Na Ela from Nitro Cave

I practically ran climbed hill and was back at Na Ela crossing point (near Nitro Falls) in record breaking time and gave my feet another cold water therapy. Couldn’t feel like taking them out, just wanted to lie down on the rock and let the nature envelope me with her arms. The rest of the crew came about 20mins later very sluggishly coz the tiredness has by now set in big time.

They too wanted a piece of that calmness and lied down heavily sighing deeply. We had by then done nearly 20km or more most of it hiking and felt dog tired. Nava mama said that we now have to walk downwards along the Na Ela and I felt happy but it was one of the hardest things to do as we had to keep on constant alert jumping from rock to rock and avoid boulders and obstacles and getting back in thorny jungle.

The walk reminded me of Grand Canyons in the US as the either side of the river rose huge rock boulders in various shades of brown. The water levels were pretty low but it was so hard to walk, we had to jump and we soon arrived at a massive earth slip along the Nitro Cave mountain right down to the river itself. It had carried a huge tree all the way and dumped on the river bed. All these had been due to the heavy rains in last January which moved the massive concrete bridge at Kaikawala by 6 inches.

Suddenly Nava mama spotted something in a shallow rock pool and was trying to take it out of the water when we saw what it was. That horrible looking white skin covered bag like thing had belonged to a wild boar mother. We then saw blood had trickled down a flat rock where apparently she was butchered by the poachers or hunters. They had erected a cross bar where they had made a fire supposedly roasting the fellow. They had removed those fetuses (we counted 6 in all sticking out like balloons out of it) and dumped in the water.

Nava mama and Tony with the help of Dimuthu took it out of the water using a stick and left it on the cross bar as it would’ve spoiled the water. That was such a horrible thing to look at but I took some pics and was pondering whether to put it on the report or not. I decided to put it anyway and hopefully admin will decide if it should be censored or not. Just after that was the Sri Lankan Grand Canyons as we called it and was a magnificent thing to look. It made it all the more difficult for us to move to the other side but we managed it with a great difficulty.

Passing that we came to a somewhat larger waterfall and the name given to her was “Na Ella”, even though Tony suggested “Samanala Ella” coz there were plenty of them but I wouldn’t have any of it. She was about 50ft in height and unreachable via a path. Only option is to walk up or climb down along the Na Ela. There were flocks of butterflies on the ground and was wondering if they were feeding something from the earth.

We then had to abandon the river as the going was very hard and Nava mama led us through the forest full of thorny plants. We had to be very careful so as not to slip into the river about 100ft below. It was pretty dark inside the forest as sun had no way of penetrating that tree cover. We then saw another waterfall about 20ft but couldn’t get up close. The name came effortlessly (now I’m very good at it) as “Katu Ella”. If you wonder why Katu Ella, we usually say “Maara Kattak” for something very difficult. It was something similar getting to her so the name stuck really well.

Another waterfall was round the corner, would you believe it? I was fast running out of names and had to come up with something fast. It was in two parts totaling about 8ft in height and “Galpoththa Ella” seemed a better name. Tony said if we continue for some more, we’re bound to run out of names pretty soon. Afterwards, to our relief, we got onto a nearby paddy field running parallel to the river and the going got easier. However when we entered the abandoned paddy field, we barely saw another huge falls, around 40ft around the river bend but couldn’t see her properly and no name was required.

We joined the Heen Ganga crossed over to the next side where people of Kaikawala busily working on their lush paddy fields. I noticed that the greenery of these fields is not so lush as much as Meemure. I can’t think of why but it was very noticeable.

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The earth slip from Nitro Cave mountain

The earth slip from Nitro Cave mountain

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Massive tree taken for a ride

Massive tree taken for a ride

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There's the ugly one we got out of water. Dried blood marks are still visible

There’s the ugly one we got out of water. Dried blood marks are still visible

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We just left it there. This is where they had apparently roasted the fellow

We just left it there. This is where they had apparently roasted the fellow

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These rocks might have come crawling with the flood waters in Jan

These rocks might have come crawling with the flood waters in Jan

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Here she is.... not full flow

Here she is…. not full flow

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The reason why we thought of calling her Samanala Ella

The reason why we thought of calling her Samanala Ella

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Pretty high even without high heels

Pretty high even without high heels

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Nava mama looking for something

Nava mama looking for something

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Up close barred by those branches

Up close barred by those branches

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Top part zoomed in from far away

Top part zoomed in from far away

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Both parts in view.... tiny one

Both parts in view…. tiny one

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This had once been an Anicut

This had once been an Anicut

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Below the Anicut, we took to the paddy fields from the corner left

Below the Anicut, we took to the paddy fields from the corner left

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We missed that big waterfall just

We missed that big waterfall just

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Ready to cross over Heen Ganga

Ready to cross over Heen Ganga

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Overhead view of far fields

Overhead view of far fields

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Found it a bit less grandeur than Meemure

Found it a bit less grandeur than Meemure

Re-awakening Meemure – Re-stored Hydro Power Project

Walking along the lush paddy fields revived our sapped energy. The sun was going down below Andirigala and Appala Pathana mountains and I wanted to hurry and go see the power plant as I had strict instructions to take pics of the renovation work and do a short video from Ana. I didn’t wanna disappoint them at any rate.

We reached the point where the used water coming out of the power house via a tunnel and there was plenty of water gushing out in a mad rush. I was very happy to see the state of the power house and Nava mana in a humorous gesture switched off the main switch joking now they don’t have power and switched on again saying now they do.

It showed how relieved that person was. It was running smoothly and we didn’t feel any vibration in the plant and they had used more screws and bolts to strengthen the whole machine. Meemure society has got hold of a boy (Jayasinghe Banda) who’s willing to do the night shift at the power house for Rs. 4000/-. It’s surprising how small that amount is but that boy had volunteered saying he doesn’t need much as it’s something he’s doing for the village. He lives about 1km uphill where the path to the power plant starts.

I took pics of the plant and did the short video too which you can see here:

Afterwards, it was time to go back to Nava mama’s place for the night. We still had to climb the hill to get to the foot path where the main tank of the power house is built. It’s about 50ft in length and over 10ft in width and a height of another 10+ft. It retains the water and sends to the power house via a pipeline about 28cm in diameter. Unlike in all the other plants I’ve seen, this is a half inch PVC pipeline whereas most of the power houses use iron pipelines. The path the pipeline is laid is supported by concrete pillars but we saw at certain places there a lose points which might endanger the pipeline.

We then walked up the path towards the main road and met the boy, Jayasinghe Banda and the person who stays for that night, Ukkubanda mama. Nava mana and the society have done a roster so that every night along with Jayasinghe Banda, someone from Meemure who’s using electricity must come and stay at the plant. If they can’t come, they have to pay Rs. 500/- to the society. I found this to be a very good option given the fact that they need to protect this very badly.

Along with them I met Mr. W. G. Samarakoon who’s the postman. I’m sure he has to walk many a miles every day delivering letters to the remote parts of those villages.

From the Meemure society, they give free electricity to the following places:

  1. Post Office
  2. Dispensary
  3. Kaikawala and Meemure Schools
  4. Samurdhi Bank and the Office
  5. Grama Niladhari Office
  6. Meemure Temple
  7. Agricultural Office

There’s been lot of charity work going on as well and it was so nice to see these people enjoy their lives. The Dendro plant is about 50m towards the village but I decided to take some pics on our way back to Hunnasgiriya as it was very dark. We got into the main road passing the post office and walked the last few kilometers thanks to my torch.

We found Lasantha (my other friend who missed out two days of fun) was waiting all fresh and ready to hit the road but we were exhausted. I remembered sending replacement soldiers to replace the battered ones in the battlefields. The legs needed so much rest and after a quick wash and dinner it was time to hit the pillow hard. We had a very long day the following day with a night in Narangamuwa. We had walked more than 35km throughout the day.

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The water gushing out the power plant

The water gushing out the power plant

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Newly installed part with more screws

Newly installed part with more screws

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Trying to get as much as possible in one go

Trying to get as much as possible in one go

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The meter board but I couldn’t make head nor tail of this

The meter board but I couldn’t make head nor tail of this

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The PVC pipeline laid amid the forest supported by concrete pillars at intervals

The PVC pipeline laid amid the forest supported by concrete pillars at intervals

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This hike was more challenging

This hike was more challenging

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From left: Nava Mama, Jayasinghe Banda, Ukkubanda and Samarakoon the postman

From left: Nava Mama, Jayasinghe Banda, Ukkubanda and Samarakoon the postman

Day 03

Meemure – Reassa Trail

Morning arrived and brought with it authentic fragrances of the trees, earth and the wind. I jumped out of the mattress and went in search of Nava mama who’d done the ritual with toddy tapping. Got washed and packed our bags as we had to stay overnight at Narangamuwa. We tried to take as few items as possible since climbing with a huge backpack gonna test your spine and knees.

After a breakfast of tasty rice and curry we were good to go. Nenda gave us our own packs of lunch to have on the way but Nava mama packed some onions, tomatoes and chilies as usual. We were not hoping to cook a meal but I knew he was up to something.

We walked towards the famous Mee Tree in the center of Meemure village near the primary school. We met Athula (hope you can remember him, he was the one who took us in our previous visit to Meemure) helping do a stone wall around a neighbor’s land. They don’t use cement; just keep one rock on top the other balancing it nicely. This reminded me of Delft Island where they’d done the same with corals. Nava mama had got a call the previous night confirming the arrival of some French tourists but he couldn’t go meet them as we had fully booked him.

Instead, he asked Athula to go to Narangamuwa and pick them and bring via the circular trail to Meemure the following day and the same thing we were gonna do. Lady Lakegala was waiting for us patiently having cleared all the clouds around her so that she looks very appealing. I couldn’t keep my eyes off her no matter how much I look at her. Nobody was gonna take me away anytime soon coz I was busy with my camera picturing her in every angle possible.

After sometime, we crossed the bridge and started our journey towards Reassa which is a part of Lakegala but can’t be seen from Meemure. That’s where Ravana’s palace was built and below his tank. Apparently Rama had attacked it with a special weapon (Possibly a nuclear attack in modern day descriptions. Otherwise there could’ve been no way a conventional weapon done so much damage to that gigantic rock. Even a 2000lb Joint Direct Attack Munition wouldn’t have inflicted so much damage) and that arrow had gone clean through that part of Lakegala like a knife through butter completely demolishing it sending tons of rocks to the tank and the nearby Narangamuwa.

— Reassa means maze in English which is a place full of obstacles and difficult to find your path and can easily get lost. As many believe Reassa is not what you call the broken side of the Lakegala, but the area where those chunks of rocks fell covering the Tank and the nearby lands of Narangamuwa. If you ever venture into the path towards Narangamuwa from the broken part of Lakegala, you’ll know what it really means as it’s very difficult to find your way to the village through the forest and endless rock boulders. —

We bypassed the “Akula Ella” which you came across in my previous report and the name was suggested by Nava mama. She was just a trickle going down the rock surface now. Then it was familiar territory right up to the Lakegala base. We did it last time with Athula and had a nice cool dip in the artistic rock pool at the base and was hoping to do the same this time around too.

However, when finally arrived at the place, I was so disappointed to see the rock pool has turned into a junkyard full of leaves as the water levels were too low to send them away. We rested our feet and munched on rice crackers. I couldn’t afford to take the risk of not taking any snacks to munch throughout the journey so stocked as much as we could carry. Meanwhile Nava mama was busy around a rock plucking some plants to find they are Gotukola.

This is the reason he packed all those orange, tomatoes, onions and chilies in the first place. Now we were gonna make some delicious Gotukola salad. However, we had no container to make it but I just left it at that. Then we were onto new territory taking the left turn around Lakegala and soon stopped at the tiny waterway to fill our waterbottles.

Suddenly, Nava mama warned us of a tree called “Maassa” which makes your skin itch and swell if you come into contact with it. Should you wash the area with water, you’re bound to get high fever according to folklore. We had to stay alert for about 1km until the danger had passed.

The treatment for this is to apply Kurahan flour mixed with coconut milk having scraped the infected area with a knife. (I hope you remember applying coconut oil when touched by a caterpillar after scraping with a knife. Kahambiliya tree is a similar one that we very well know of). There was this funny treatment of applying just coconut milk on the infected area and let a cat lick the area with its rough tongue.

Nava mama then showed us Meadiya Creepers which they used to tie the poles and sticks when building mud huts as real ropes are hard to come by. If you saw Toddy tapping pics, those poles were also tied to the tree with these creepers.

We then reached the Komala Pathana and started having our lunch when Nava mama brought a flat rock about 2 square feet. He then washed all the Gotukola and cut them with his knife and put them on the washed out rock surface and mixed it with chopped onions, chilies and tomatoes. Squeezed out orange added that wonderful flavor and we tucked in hungrily. The flavors started exploding in our mouths with those crunchy onions and fresh Gotukola.

We suddenly started a steep climb and Nava mama kept looking for any danger such as Wild animals, wasps or any traps in the jungle. Attempting these trails without a guide will put you in endless troubles and dangers. Nava mama showed us Black Monkey about a km away and I tried to see the fellow with my own eyes with a great difficulty. Then I used my tiny point and shoot and got a decent enough pic which made Nava mama very keen on it.

He was asking all about cameras and said that he’s gonna get one soon as he comes across many interesting things that go without a record since he hasn’t got a camera. “I’ll get one when the peppers are sold” he kept telling me. Imagine the things he gets to see in those un-ventured areas. We haven’t seen even one hundredth of what he’s seen. Soon the forest disappeared paving the way to small plants then and there. We were nearing the top and the surrounding looked fabulous even though the scorching sun kept pounding on us.

Suddenly it was right in front of us and I felt mesmerized of what we saw. The Narangamuwa side of Lakegala has been cleanly cut away as if a slice of a loaf of bread and the height is so much we couldn’t gauge it. However, Nava mama threw a stone to the bottom and it took 11 seconds for us to hear the boom. Must be a long way down and I suspect it to be around 600-800ft.

We were very little below the top of Lakegala but couldn’t climb up from that side as the mountain is divided in the middle. Only way up is to take the right trail up at the base of Lakegala where we rested. We took many pics and could see Narangamuwa faraway specially the Temple and Stupa along with those beautiful paddy fields. There was a huge rocky mountain towards left of Narangamuwa and on it two openings showing that they were caves dug into the rock.

Nava mama explained that those were said to be the storage of King Ravana for grains, especially paddy. He’d been inside of them and said the length is about 70ft and height and width around 20ft each. The shape is like a cone overall. Apparently there are remains of those grains still in those caves. They are called “Kapuwatugala Caves”.

We stayed there about 40mins and decided to head towards Narangamuwa as it was another long hike through the maze (Reassa). On the way we were to pass the foot of that rock where the caves are dug in.

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Lasantha fresh looking but we are no worse

Lasantha fresh looking but we are no worse

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Doing the wall with just putting rocks on top of each other

Doing the wall with just putting rocks on top of each other

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Going towards the bridge through sawed paddy fields

Going towards the bridge through sawed paddy fields

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Crossing the bridge the crew in single file

Crossing the bridge the crew in single file

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No matter whether you're young or old, you have to work as much as others

No matter whether you’re young or old, you have to work as much as others

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The scenery along is worth the whole journey

The scenery along is worth the whole journey

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Getting a rest and Lasantha kept looking for signal

Getting a rest and Lasantha kept looking for signal

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You could see the Maediya Creepers. Just below is the Akula Falls

You could see the Maediya Creepers. Just below is the Akula Falls

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Differently shaped Lakegala when you go around her

Differently shaped Lakegala when you go around her

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Familiar Territory. Tony's with his two sticks that helped him right throughout

Familiar Territory. Tony’s with his two sticks that helped him right throughout

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Hurrahhh... finally the base of Lakegala

Hurrahhh… finally the base of Lakegala

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Nava mama washing the freshly plucked Gotukola to be kept for later

Nava mama washing the freshly plucked Gotukola to be kept for later

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Can you see the dark base pool? This was the artistic pool where we had a cool dip. But not this time

Can you see the dark base pool? This was the artistic pool where we had a cool dip. But not this time

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Mountians far away. If you wanna climb the Lakegala, the trail is slightly to the left of the pic

Mountians far away. If you wanna climb the Lakegala, the trail is slightly to the left of the pic

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Maaussa - The poisonous tree...

Maaussa – The poisonous tree…

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Nice doorway created by those smashed rocks from Lakegala

Nice doorway created by those smashed rocks from Lakegala

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Another skull of a buffalo

Another skull of a buffalo

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This is another piece of bone but looked like a head of its own with eyes and the mouth

This is another piece of bone but looked like a head of its own with eyes and the mouth

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The faraway black monkey which made Nava mama wanna get a camera ASAP

The faraway black monkey which made Nava mama wanna get a camera ASAP

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This is not wasps, but ants

This is not wasps, but ants

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Funny shaped in the middle

Funny shaped in the middle

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This is good to have as a plant in your garden. Name is "Baludan"

This is good to have as a plant in your garden. Name is “Baludan”

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Komala Pathana.... ready to lunch

Komala Pathana…. ready to lunch

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The water was getting very scarce to find

The water was getting very scarce to find

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The all-rounder: Guide, Host, Cook and so much more

The all-rounder: Guide, Host, Cook and so much more

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I know this makes your mouth water....

I know this makes your mouth water….

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Destination is close by.... we finally arrived in this open area along the climb

Destination is close by…. we finally arrived in this open area along the climb

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This is called "Kahata" and they cook a nice curry with those fruits

This is called “Kahata” and they cook a nice curry with those fruits

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The top of Lakegala and we were heading to the left. It's separate in the middle as a result you can't cross from this side to the top

The top of Lakegala and we were heading to the left. It’s separate in the middle as a result you can’t cross from this side to the top

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Here it is. The straight line on the left is where the rock is cleanly shaved by that arrow

Here it is. The straight line on the left is where the rock is cleanly shaved by that arrow

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I'll let you get the pic

I’ll let you get the pic

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This place used to have Ravana's tank but got all covered up with those chunks of rocks... Narangamuwa is far away

This place used to have Ravana’s tank but got all covered up with those chunks of rocks… Narangamuwa is far away

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Can see a glimpse of Narangamuwa from here

Can see a glimpse of Narangamuwa from here

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This is not the summit, it's on the other side

This is not the summit, it’s on the other side

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I'm like the Atlas who carries the world

I’m like the Atlas who carries the world

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We had no idea the following day we'd walk along these paddy fields

We had no idea the following day we’d walk along these paddy fields

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From Narangamuwa to Meemure, the path is beyond those rocks

From Narangamuwa to Meemure, the path is beyond those rocks

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See the Stupa at Narangamuwa Temple

See the Stupa at Narangamuwa Temple

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Nava mama throwing a stone and Tony measuring the time

Nava mama throwing a stone and Tony measuring the time

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Time to head back as we had a long walk to Narangamuwa

Time to head back as we had a long walk to Narangamuwa

Reassa – Narangamuwa Trail

On our way to Narangamuwa, Tony’s shoe broke and fortunately he’d bought a pair of rubber slippers. It was climbing down time and we soon entered into a nearly dried up river on a rocky bed. There was still a bit of water stubbornly flowing in the middle but we had no such difficulty in tackling the path. On and off Tony had to resort to foul wheel bringing back his childhood abilities.

Afterwards we were soon enveloped by the jungle and it was pretty dark but Nava mama wasn’t gonna miss the trail. He did it after a very long time still managed to guide us through the correct path using his own abilities and some land marks such as trees and rocks.

We came across a funny shaped tree which had a kind of archway that we could walk through. Soon Nava mama identified the Jack tree where we can go to the Kapuwatugala Cave. It was getting close to 6pm and Nava mama still wanted to climb up about 60ft and get us some pics. I knew it wasn’t a good idea even for an experience person like him so asked not to do it. I said we could always come back later and explore it and he very reluctantly gave in.

There was another cave at the bottom about 30ft long and 6-10ft in depth. There were trees grown at the mouth of the caves covering it from prying eyes. Looking back we saw a differently shaped Lakegala mainly due to the broken piece of her. Lakegala is the separating point of Meemure and Narangamuwa.

Then we entered the village and walked passing paddy fields till we reached the Narangamuwa town Centre. It’s powered by the main line and had no problem with electricity like Meemure. Nava mama’s relative (one of his nephews) was there waiting for us. We were to stay at his place more to the irritation of Nava mama’s younger brother. He said that Nava mama came to Narangamuwa after a long time and wanted him to stay at his place.

We had cream soda to pamper our parched mouths and it felt like the best in the world. Nava mama in the meantime bought the rations for our dinner and breakfast. It was very dark and we had our torches thankfully along with theirs. Another 2km walk brought us to one edge of the village and beyond that was the Knuckles protected area. They said to our horror that the Elephants come to the village and even to the garden but no damage so far being done. I guess either the villagers and elephants live in harmony or the worst is yet to happen.

We were so tired but were warmly welcomed by them. Immediately the house became like a bees’ nest everyone trying to see to our needs and Nava mama kept boasting that we were the ones who initiated the restoration work of the power plant so VIP treatment was around the corner. After a very cold bath, we had a delicious dinner and juicy home grown papaya. What more could a man ask for other than a cozy bed which was exactly what we got in the end.

However, Nava mama’s brother kept telling us some of the folklore and it was very interesting to hear they talk about all these things. It was time to grab the pillow and dream about my Lakegala so we turned in for the night.

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The Baby Tony learning to walk

The Baby Tony learning to walk

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The dried up river on the rocky bed

The dried up river on the rocky bed

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Odd rock pool or the other

Odd rock pool or the other

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Another pic of the team....

Another pic of the team….

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This is a river nearly dried up

This is a river nearly dried up

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With the flash on.... not so big

With the flash on…. not so big

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The trees are masking the entrance of Kapuwatugala Cave

The trees are masking the entrance of Kapuwatugala Cave

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Differently shaped Lakegala

Differently shaped Lakegala

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This is where they keep the calves...

This is where they keep the calves…

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Getting to the town was very tiring

Getting to the town was very tiring

Day 04

Narangamuwa – Meemure Circular Trail

We slept without a hitch and no fear whatsoever for elephants trampling on us. We got up to another fantastic day and the sky was crystal clear and everything was looking as best as anything can look. We saw Kumara’s (our host) son was already dressed up and remember it’s Mon and the schools are still functioning. Very good to see him in pristine white shirt and royal blue shorts which came sweet memories flooding back to me.

The kitchen was very busy and Kumara’s wife was multitasking while preparing our breakfast and getting her son and daughter ready for school and Montessori. We had wash and came to a sumptuous breakfast and wolfed it down like no tomorrow. We were planning on coming back to Colombo the same day and had to hurry and get back to Meemure. Still a journey of 16+km. I was already tired and wished we could stay that day as well but my office was not forgiving any more.

We had breakfast and managed to get a pic of Kumara’s little girl who looked like an angel with her uniform up. She shyly posed for a pic and I got the whole family to pose too even though Kumara’s wife was very reluctant. We bid our thanks and farewell to those wonderful people and got back on the road. On the way we stopped by at Nava Mama’s brother’s place for a glass of water.

We walked through the paddy field which we saw from the top of the broken bit and it was simply amazing. We saw an old lady working on a grain field (Mun Eta) and the lush greenery of the plants were very adorable. We came across and got into the road to find Athula coming to Narangamuwa to collect those French foreigners.

Everybody seems to know everybody else as both the villagers are relatives in one way or the other due to marriages between them. We met a person who had collected his daily ration of Toddy and Nava mama and Tony who were creeping behind us had managed to help themselves to a cup or two. We soon entered the jungle and saw a some holy tree with tree branches hanging. Nava mama did the rituals asking for protection along the journey by hanging a branch of our own.

The god they worshipped was called Wanniya Bandara. He has many other names such as “Kele Bandara, Aluth Bandara, Biso Bandara, Gale Bandara, Devatha Bandara and Dedimunda Bandara”. Different areas used different names, according to Nava mama but the same god.

—It was a walk through the “Donduru Weddha Mala Thenna” (Where the Donduru Weddha was killed). Nava mama said the story. There had been a Weddha called Donduru who lived there and no villages nearby not even Meemure or Narangamuwa. One day he met this hunter and they got very friendly. The hunter went and told his brother about the Weddha and the area where he roamed and suggested it was ideal to start a new village. However, Weddha wouldn’t hear of it and one day they took him hunting and killed the fellow. Afterwards they started the villages Meemure and Narangamuwa. —

This is just one of many stories how the Meemure and Narangamuwa were found. Then he told us another story how the Meemure and Lakegala were named.

—The great rock called “Maha Pabbatha” became Lakegala and many other names had been used where it ended up Lakegala.

  1. Lankagala
  2. Ilakkagala – Where the rock was targeted.
  3.  Lanka Pabbatha
  4. Yakgala – Where the devils (Yakun) stayed

—Meemure was initially called “Maha Pabbatha Gramaya” and descended from “Maha Mure” and became “Meemure”. —

We soon came to a flat rock where we stopped for a quick biscuit and some water. To our amazement, we saw Athula and the gang of French girls coming round the corner. It had been pretty fast. However while I was taking some pics we heard a big thud to find one of the girls were on her all four having tripped over a rock.

Tony rushed to help talking in rapid English with an Arctic accent but those French understood very little of it. Tony was wishing he could speak French and we had to pacify him all the way. We left them to have their own picnic and hurried on. Nava mama showed us a place where a massive tree had fallen and claimed three lives long time ago. Apparently one villager had grown sweet potatoes nearby and burnt the base of the tree to remove it. But that tree hadn’t gone without taking his revenge.

Yet another place, like a quarry some villages about 50 years ago had seen a Female Devil (Yakinna) while trying to dig a treasure. They had run all the way to the Meemure. One of them is still alive and he had confided in Nava mama the incident. Most terrifying moment came when we had to pass a wasp nest about 5ft away from it. We crept like a bunch of thieves after some treasure when the household is asleep. Fortunately they were busy at work and not bothered with us.

Finally we reached the outskirts of the Meemure and felt very glad coz of never ending exhaustion. Panic was setting in too as we were running out of time. Nava mama once joked that Sri is going around Lakegala in an effort to protect her. Tony too had his piece of news up his sleeve. He kept pestering Nava mama to find me a girl from Meemure. He willingly agreed to come speak to the girl’s family (if there’s such a girl) on my behalf and get the things settled. Not a bad idea, what do you guys think?

I got a close look at a Madu Tree and it’s seeds still not ready to harvest. Those people make a delicious curry using Madu leaves (Dalu) and Pittu using those seeds. Finally we crossed the bridge and sat beside a rock offering our remaining biscuits to the farmers. We could waste no time and started walking between the paddy fields when two water buffalos started to chase each other. At first, I thought it was a wonderful opportunity to record the event when one turned towards us. Horror-stricken, we ran like headless chickens forgetting all the tiredness and I still wonder how our legs managed that much strength.

Nava mama and the farmers were laughing their heads off at the incident and we hurried onto the house.

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The garden looked fabulous

The garden looked fabulous

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Kumara and his wife.... great hosts

Kumara and his wife…. great hosts

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Lakegala and the surrounding mountains

Lakegala and the surrounding mountains

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Early morning, she's already busy

Early morning, she’s already busy

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What a wonderful experience to walk in a paddy field early morning

What a wonderful experience to walk in a paddy field early morning

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Nothing can replicate what you actually see

Nothing can replicate what you actually see

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They couldn't keep their eyes off Lakegala

They couldn’t keep their eyes off Lakegala

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Nava mama and Tony having had some Toddy coming like crabs

Nava mama and Tony having had some Toddy coming like crabs

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Doing the rituals in their own way

Doing the rituals in their own way

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I have no idea who this is

I have no idea who this is

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unny to have come across something like this, could be one of the toddy tapper's

unny to have come across something like this, could be one of the toddy tapper’s

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Tony was pretty excited to see the lady bird

Tony was pretty excited to see the lady bird

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Tony's scared that the elephants will come

Tony’s scared that the elephants will come

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I have no idea where this leads to

I have no idea where this leads to

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Artistic but blocking the path

Artistic but blocking the path

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Do you see what I see? It's almost like an Elephant

Do you see what I see? It’s almost like an Elephant

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Where we stopped for a biccie break

Where we stopped for a biccie break

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Having regained some energy thanks to biscuits

Having regained some energy thanks to biscuits

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The third girl in a white top is the one who fell. I missed the action by seconds. Seeing her trying to balance didn’t surprise me that she fell

The third girl in a white top is the one who fell. I missed the action by seconds. Seeing her trying to balance didn’t surprise me that she fell

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Can you see the art carved on this? I suspect this could be one of the pieces from the Palace on top of Lakegala

Can you see the art carved on this? I suspect this could be one of the pieces from the Palace on top of Lakegala

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Had to wait a long time to take this

Had to wait a long time to take this

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Busy at work to care about us

Busy at work to care about us

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Outskirts of the village. Do you see the cables? They've laid them from a long distance away so that these people at the edge can enjoy a bit of luxury too

Outskirts of the village. Do you see the cables? They’ve laid them from a long distance away so that these people at the edge can enjoy a bit of luxury too

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This is the hay house and under that the bull or cow is tied. This will allow it to eat whenever hungry and the roof above gives him shade and cover from rain.

This is the hay house and under that the bull or cow is tied. This will allow it to eat whenever hungry and the roof above gives him shade and cover from rain.

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Kept turning back to see her

Kept turning back to see her

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Mission accomplished and they are dragging themselves back to base

Mission accomplished and they are dragging themselves back to base

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Mountains looming at large

Mountains looming at large

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The farmer taking a much needed break. The dog followed us from the edge of the village...

The farmer taking a much needed break. The dog followed us from the edge of the village…

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After the Buffolo attck. The one on the left was the aggressive one.

After the Buffolo attck. The one on the left was the aggressive one.

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Final glance at Lakegala... time to leave lady

Final glance at Lakegala… time to leave lady

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A very rare pic and I simply can't guess how old she is

A very rare pic and I simply can’t guess how old she is

Alternative Energy – Dendro Power Plant

We arrived at the house like old CTB buses belching smoke and thundering under their own weights. Nava mama’s wife had prepared the lunch. We quickly had a wash and eat hungrily. While Nava mama was telling more stories we tried to relax.

Upali came around 3.00pm to pick us and along with Nava mama’s tuk-tuk we left for Kaikawala Dendro Power Plant. This has been started as a compliment of the hydro plant generating electricity when the water levels are not enough.

I wanted to take a pic of Nava mama and his wife together but she was very shy. In the end, after all our pestering she agreed to pose very reluctantly. Nava mama even dragged a wooden seat for but in the end he had to sit on it.

We reached the dendro plant which is passing the Meemure post office. The place looked used before but not in the recent past. They use firewood such as Giniseeriya (Albeesiya in other words – Gliricidia Sepium scientifically) for burning to generate power. It’s a fast growing plant and the environmental impact is minimal. It’s said if we grow 400,000 hectares of these, we can generate 1000 megawatts of electricity.

I’m sure Ana and Wije have their eyes on this as well and they are planning to visit Meemure very soon to check on the hydro plant. It was time for us to go and Nava mama was very sad too. It was all dry and plenty of sunshine right throughout but all of a sudden out of nowhere black clouds formed threatening to rain. We could feel the droplets of water in the air and I felt it’s Lakegala crying over our departure. She must be very sad like me but what to do we had to say good-bye.

It was a marathon journey right along and I do hope I’ve not made you tired having to read and go through hundreds of pages of my fairy tale. It took me ages to compile all these and I’m sure it must’ve taken up a huge chunk of your precious time. All I can hope is the time you spent on this is worth your while.

Please read my previous report “Jaunting off the Most Beautiful Village on Earth – Meemure”for a different viewpoint. That was when I got fascinated with Meemure and fell in love with Lakegala. This time it turned out to be a more strenuous but a stretched stay. I’ve already planned what I’m gonna do next time. Hopefully will have something similar in a few months’ times, rather few weeks’ even.

Again, big thank-you should go to Ana, Wije and everybody else who showed their interested and offered to help these people.

Here ends my fairy tale and hope you enjoyed it as much as me.

Take care…

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Here's the couple... Like on their wedding photo

Here’s the couple… Like on their wedding photo

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Very complicated for my understanding

Very complicated for my understanding

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UNIDO had their hands on this as well

UNIDO had their hands on this as well

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These meters don't mean a thing to me. A joint venture by Austria, India, GoSL and UNIDO

These meters don’t mean a thing to me. A joint venture by Austria, India, GoSL and UNIDO

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Hopper is where you put the wood for burning

Hopper is where you put the wood for burning

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I'm getting up for a closer look

I’m getting up for a closer look

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The rest of the room with machinery

The rest of the room with machinery

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They need to get this going again

They need to get this going again

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Good bye Meemure and my Lakegala.... Coming to see you soon

Good bye Meemure and my Lakegala…. Coming to see you soon

 

A Drive Through Knuckles, Meemure & Rathna Ella

Year and Month April, 2013 (16th and 17th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 3
Accommodation Camping at meemure
Transport SUV
Activities Waterfalls, driving through one of the most scenic areas of the country & Camping
Weather Excellent
Route
  • Day 1Delgoda –> Belummhara –> Pasyala –> Giriulla –> Kurunegala –> Ibbagamuwa –> Dodangaslanda –> Yatawatta –> Matale –> Kandenuwara –> Kabaragala -> Madulkelle -> Bambarella –> Rangala –> Udispattuwa –> Medamahanuwara –> Hunnasgiriya –> Loolwatta –> Meemure
  • Day 2Meemure –> Hunnasgiriya –> Hasalaka –> Hettipola –> Pallegama –> Ilukkumbura –> Riverston –> Rattota –> Matale –> Katugastota –> Kurunegala –> Giriulla –> Payala –> Belummahara -> Delgoda
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Total distance travelled 627km
  • Had to turn back from Rangala and take the udispattuwa/medamahanuwara road via hunnasgiriya to loolwatta
  • Please bring back everything you took. Leave only footprints, take only photos.
  • Better to carry a stock of water for drinking.
  • Although ‘Navarathne mama’ promised to help us at meemure, he never showed up and eventually was left on our own (we did find one helpful villager) to find a place to camp. This “not so welcome” treatment prompted us to cut short on our trip and return home the very next day.
Author Lahiru
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Another one of those trips hastily arranged after seeing we have an extra couple of days off after the sinhala & tamil new year festivities.
This time our plan was to go on a camping trip to meemure, thereby making use of the tent I bought about 1 ½ years ago but has never been used.
So on the 16th 2 of us left Delgoda at 4am picking up the 3rd member on our way from Dambadeniya. By about 6.30am we were at kurunegala and proceeded towards ibbagamuwa as we intended to take the dodangaslanda – yatawatta road to matale.
The 38km distance from ibbagamuwa to matale was a gradual ascend. The scenery as we gained elevation was breathtaking.

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Sun rise on the yatawatta-matale road

Sun rise on the yatawatta-matale road

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scenery along yatawatta-matale road

scenery along yatawatta-matale road

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scenery along yatawatta-matale road

scenery along yatawatta-matale road

After having breakfast at matale and buying some rations required for our stay we headed along the kandy road where we took a left turn towards the kandenuwara –kabaragala –madulkelle road. The journey was a continuous uphill climb along one of the most scenic roads I’ve travelled. The drive up to Rangala along carpeted tea estates and the views were simply breathtaking.

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View towards elkaduwa/kandy from kandenuwara road

View towards elkaduwa/kandy from kandenuwara road

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Views along matale-kandenuwara road

Views along matale-kandenuwara road

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Waterfall with little water

Waterfall with little water

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Taking a break to enjoy the stunning scenery

Taking a break to enjoy the stunning scenery

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Matale town(360m above msl) from a 1000m above msl

Matale town(360m above msl) from a 1000m above msl

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Lunch was from jothi hot pack

Lunch was from jothi hot pack

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Unknown waterfall @ madulkelle

Unknown waterfall @ madulkelle

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.

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Distant view of jodu ella/ twin falls

Distant view of jodu ella/ twin falls

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More scenery along the way close to rangala

More scenery along the way close to rangala

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A waterfall seen close to rangala

A waterfall seen close to rangala

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Badly wanted to have dip but time wasn’t on our side..

Badly wanted to have dip but time wasn’t on our side..

From rangala our intended route was through Thangappuwa to Loolwatte but due to conflicting information (some said the thangappuwa – loolwatte road was damaged by earthslips and was not motorable) given to us by locals we decided against it and turned back towards teldeniya to take the hunnasgiriya – loolwatte road to meemure.

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Topmost part of a waterfall seen on the left of the main road @ hunnasgiriya

Topmost part of a waterfall seen on the left of the main road @ hunnasgiriya

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Heading towards loolwatte from hunnasgiriya

Heading towards loolwatte from hunnasgiriya

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Waterfall seen at loolwatte..this can be seen from udu dumbara as well..

Waterfall seen at loolwatte..this can be seen from udu dumbara as well..

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Panoramic view from loolwatte

Panoramic view from loolwatte

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Waterfall seen on the way to meemure

Waterfall seen on the way to meemure

It was around 5.30pm when we reached meemure and contacted ‘navarathne mama’ as he had promised us to help find a place for us to set up camp when I contacted him for the first time two days earlier and for the second time a day before. But when we contacted him upon our arrival at meemure he was less willing to come by and told us to ask someone who is around to help us to which we found none. The excitement of our first camping trip was suddenly gone when we felt we were helpless and was in a state of despair. After asking numerous people one person directed us to the road where the famed ‘suriya arana’ film shooting places was located. So finally we headed in that direction with a glimmer of a hope in finding a place to camp. While heading on that road we were relieved to finally find a person to help us. This person showed us the numerous places where the film was shot and also a place to set up camp on top of a rockbed beside the river.
It was already dark when we finished setting up camp. After having a dip in the river for about an hour we prepared our dinner and by about 10.30pm we were off for the night.

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Right after setting up tent and a fire..

Right after setting up tent and a fire..

With the not so fond memories of the previous evening still weighing on our minds we decided to cut short on our trip and leave meemure after breakfast.

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Lakegala bathed in morning sunshine

Lakegala bathed in morning sunshine

On our way back we took the time to visit rathna falls at hasalaka.

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First glimpse of rathna falls

First glimpse of rathna falls

We were back home around midnight a bit sad that we had to cut short on our trip. This will be etched in our memories forever as our first camping trip but mostly because of the breathtaking sceneries that we experienced while driving through the knuckles mountain range.

 

The Waterfall hunt which ended as an archaeology exploration!

Year and Month August, 2013
Number of Days 2 random days
Crew 1
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public transport & trishaw
Activities Archeology/trekking/Waterfall hunting
Weather Excellent
Route Day1: Matara -> Hakmana  -> Mulatiyana -> Walasmulla -> Kirama -> Warapitiya -> Katuwana -> Middeniya -> Angunukolapelessa -> Hungama -> Ambalanthota -> Ridiyagama -> Ambalanthota -> Hambanthota -> Thissa -> Thanamalivila -> Monaragala
Day2:  Monaragala -> Thanamalvila -> Embilipitiya -> Padalangala -> Madunagala turn off -> Mahapelessa -> Madunagala -> Suriyawewa -> Embilipitiya -> Middeniya -> Katuwana -> Embilipitiya -> Udawalawa -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Get permission from the head priest
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Some places require 4WD or trishaws
  • Behave accordingly at hermitages
  • Explain your intensions clearly
  • My main intension is creating awareness; if you want to know more about the place the head priests of these locations will
    give you a good description when you visit Image may be NSFW.
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    :-)
  • If you are coming from Embilipitiya on A18 road, turn left at the Padalangala Junction. Travel about 7.5 km along the
    Padalangala-Sooriyawewa B563 road, until you meet an IOC Petrol Shed on the left side of the road. Just few meters passing
    the Petrol Shed, turn to the right. Continue about 3.5 km along the track. You will come to an almost T-junction where one
    fork would go leftwards. Turn to the left and continue to reach the entrance of Hot water springs.
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

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map 1

map 1 – Click to enlarge

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map 2

map 2 – Click to enlarge

I had to go to Matara to meet some of my foreign friends and next day I was supposed to return back to Monaragala. I didn’t want to waste my visit by not visiting few places so I picked up few random locations which I could drop in without much of a difficulty while getting back.

First I went to Mulatiyana and headed towards Mawarala and few Kilometers away from Mulatiyana Kos gaha dola falls could be found on the right hand side of the road. It does originate from a natural spring and later flows to the river in Mulatiyana reserve. There is a nice observation platform for viewing purpose and almost all villagers know about this. From Mulatiyana I headed towards Kirama and from Kirama hired a trishaw which took me towards Warapitiya Lake and on the way we came across a junction where there was a black board which stimulated me. We took the left road from that junction (as I remember this was Warapitiya) and reached Siththam gal lena RMV.

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through Mulatiyana reserve

through Mulatiyana reserve

On that particular day there was a Sunday school prize giving ceremony going on and I couldn’t meet the head priest to get proper permission. Anyway I started climbing uphill and reached the main rock cave where some beautiful paintings could be found but only to enjoy them through a meshed window because the entrance door was locked. From this cave I further climbed up and came towards the restored Pagoda where one can enjoy a fantastic view towards Kirama. After climbing few more steps I reached the last maluwa where the devalaya’s could be found. I strongly recommend visiting this scenic ancient temple to other visitors also and I myself might go there again someday too. After getting down I headed back towards the junction where we deviated and took the right turn to reach Rammale Kadura/ Sapugahadora Biso falls. This waterfall been the highest of Hambanthota district is a beautiful cascade and it’s very easy to reach too. They were building a bridge across the stream where one could enjoy the beauty of it easily.

Quote

Sapugahadora Biso ella/Rammale kadura

The sources of this 12m-high fall are the brooks flowing down the Rammale mountain range. It flows on to the Warapitiya Reservoir and then the Kirma River. During the dry season the flow is languid but when the rains come, it cascades magnificently. Tea plantations and other crops in Rammale and Wadula have taken a heavy toll on the environment, putting the fall’s existence in jeopardy.

The fall is situated near the Sitamgalla Temple, Hambantota District. From Katuwanna PC, near the Warapitiya Tank, take the Warapitiya – Uruboka road for 3km. It is 20m from the first culvert to the fall. Alternatively, take the road from ktuwana town via Rukmalpitiya Dangalkande towards Hulankande. The fall can be found between Hulankande and Kirama. 

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note the ancient paintings

note the ancient paintings

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warapitiya tank as seen frm the pagoda

warapitiya tank as seen from the pagoda

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the concrete leading towards Rammale falls

the concrete leading towards Rammale falls

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side view of the Biso ella

side view of the Biso ella

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Rammale biso falls(Sapugahadora falls)

Rammale biso falls(Sapugahadora falls)

From Warapitiya I got back to Kirama and headed towards Ambalantota. After getting to Ambalatota I wanted to go in search of a waterfall called Abarana falls which is the 2nd documented waterfall of the district. Fortunately one trishaw guy knew about this and he took me towards Ridiyagama. At Ridiyagama there is a road called Abarana ella and if one follows it the cascade could be reached. This miniature waterfall is formed by Walawe River and when I visited it the waterfall was covered 50% because of the high water levels. The importance of this miniature falls is because of its history rather than been a waterfall.

Quote

Abarana falls

According to folklore, the 2m fall derives its name from the fascinating but sad story of King Wijebahu. The king was married to beautiful twin sisters, both seven months’ pregnant. Before leaving for a sea battle, he announced to his queens that should he be successful, white flags would be hoisted from his ship’s mast upon his return, but should he be defeated, black flags would be flown instead. He also warned them that he would not live to see defeat.

After many days keeping vigil from the nearby Usangoda Mountain (800ft), the queens spied the king’s ship on the horizon. Although the king was victorious, he took up his general’s suggestion to fly the black flags as a practical joke, curious to see the reactions of his wives. The queens saw the black flags and assumed the worst. Overwhelmed by grief and sorrow, they committed suicide by throwing themselves into the river, after first gathering all their jewellery and laying it on the bank. Upon realising the fate of his queens and unborn children, the king was overcome by grief and plunged after them into the water. The fall is now said to be haunted by the Dark Prince – the king’s reincarnation – and it was the jewellery left on the riverbank by the distraught queens (apparitions of which have been reported) that gave the fall its name.

Also found growing near the fall is the plant locally known as dalumura, used by local villagers in devil exorcism rituals. Beware! Crocodiles (Crocodylus palustris) are often seen basking in the sun, half submerged by the pool formed by the fall. The fall’s source is the lower tributary of the Walawe River. It is situated near the town of Ambalantota and the village of Pallerota (in the Ambalantota Ridiyagama area), and the last 2km of the journey must be made on foot. To reach the bullock cart track that serves as the footpath, from the Ambalantota Nonagama junction head to the 77th mile post and cross an irrigation canal, passing a bathing spot/boat yard and a tobacco plantation. A convenient place to stay is the Hambantota rest-house, 26km away.

Since it was getting late I rushed back to Ambalantota to catch a Monaragala bus to end a tiring day where most of the time was spent on dusty roads.

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Abarana falls(its 2m in height but due to the increased water level it is not clearly visible)

Abarana falls(its 2m in height but due to the increased water level it is not clearly visible)

Day two was another random day which I decided to visit few more places which I couldn’t complete on day 1. So as usual early morning I headed towards Embilipitya where I got a bus via Padalangala towards Suriyawewa. I got off at Unuwatura lin junction and hired a trishaw for the 3Km stretch towards the famous Mahapelessa hot springs. As I remember travelers who previously visited this place many years ago had mentioned that this was a jungle but now the surrounding area is just like a botanical garden. They even have caged rabbits and ducks etc.. I even noted an aquarium under construction. This is now a place of income rather than an attraction to the provincial government.

After playing around with hot water, I decide to visit two more hermitages which were located in the Madunagala sanctuary. Just passing the hot springs we took a right turn and proceeded about 6Km’s to reach the rock hermitage of Karabulena/Karadu lena within the sanctuary and a car with careful driving could be used to access this place during the dry months. The hermitage is a huge and functional one with plenty of drip ledged caves. It is said that “rahathan theros” once meditated at this hermitage. There were two interesting caves one been the “cool cave” and the other an “umbrella cave”, on top of the rock there is a beautiful Buddha statue and a renovated pagoda. One could enjoy an endless view towards Hambanthota region including the harbor. I also noted the nearby huge Ridiyagama tank.

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main cave at Karadulena hermitage

main cave at Karadulena hermitage

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Madunagala hermitage as seen from Karadulena

Madunagala hermitage as seen from Karadulena

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pano from the so called worlds end

pano from the so called worlds end

Next was Madunagala hermitage which was not so far away from Karadulena. Again we had to go through the forest to reach this place and better not to venture around in evenings because few elephants do roam around. After climbing few steps we reached the main Meda maluwa where few drip ledge caves could be found and there was a paved path through “Araliya trees” to reach the inscription and “palamu lena”. From palamu lena it was a small climb to the top where an unique designed pagoda which one could walk about inside it is found. Karadu lena hermitage was clearly seen from the rock top and also an endless view towards Hambanthota was appreciated. On the way back we did manage to visit few rock ponds which had water.

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road through madunagala reserve

road through madunagala reserve

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steps at madunagala hermitage

steps at madunagala hermitage

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been used during nights and rested in mornings

been used during nights and rested in mornings

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path through the araliya trees

path through the araliya trees

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a huge kema at madunagala hermitage

a huge kema at madunagala hermitage

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pagoda at madunagala hermitage

pagoda at madunagala hermitage

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Karadu lena as seen from madunagala

Karadu lena as seen from madunagala

From Madunagala we reached Suriyawewa where I got in to a Embilipitiya bus to reach Chandrika lake where I spent some time enjoying the breath taking scenery towards Sooriyakanda. After having lunch from Embilipitiya I proceeded towards Katuwana where a road side Dutch fort could be found. This Dutch fort was reconstructed few years back and is a wonderful place to drop in whenever one could. It is said that the deep wide diameter well like tunnel was used by them to reach the southern shores of Sri Lanka without been noticed. For more information please go through the images. Not even 500m towards Middeniya there was an archeology board directing towards Nakadawela Purana viharaya where one could find an ancient image house which had been restored during different periods. The outer wall paintings are the older ones and the inner wall ones are from Kandyan era. After thanking the head priest I decided to return back to Embilipitiya and then towards Monaragala to end my mini quest around Hambanthota.

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sooriyakanda as seen from Chandrika lake

sooriyakanda as seen from Chandrika lake

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read 1 - Click to enlarge

read 1 – Click to enlarge

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read 2 - Click to enlarge

read 2 – Click to enlarge

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read 3 - Click to enlarge

read 3 – Click to enlarge

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read 6 - Click to enlarge

read 6 – Click to enlarge

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pagoda at image house at Nakadawala PV Katuwana

pagoda at image house at Nakadawala PV Katuwana

 


Leopard Hunt- Wilpattu edition

Year and Month August, 2013
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 5 (between 26-28 years of age)
Accommodation L.L.T Safari Hotel, Wilpattu
Transport Car up to Wilpattu and a safari jeep inside the NP
Activities Safari / Photography / Wild Life
Weather Excellent
Route Gampaha>Negambo > Puttalam> Wilpattu
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Please do not expect to see animals like you are in a zoo. I saw some of the people scolding n cursing drivers and jeep owners saying they couldn’t see any… It is all your luck!!!! Just understand that..
  • Saw so much polythene and items left here and there. Try to take care about the items and garbage you keep inside the safari jeeps. Saw so much bags flying outside due to wind and all.
Author anton gihan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hello friends,

We started from Gampaha at about 5 o’clock in the morning. The crew was five in a car. Could not book a bungalow inside the park and since arranged to stay @ L.L.T safari hotel close by wilpattu park. Owner Tiuder is a very nice and honest guy. He has few jeeps as well. Charges were very fair and helpful as well. Contact him through 0714187083 and try to arrange the driver named Dammika. Very nice and a great guy who will go for that extra bit to show us the best.

We came to the hotel by 10.30am. Drive was great. Went for a safari in the afternoon after having lunch. Will post the pics..

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so many corcks were there..

so many corcks were there..

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.

And then we met the 1st leopard. Thought it was dead in the beginning since it was not moving at all. Saw him breathing through the camera lens. Guess it had a heavy meal n trying to relax… we were next to him for almost 1 hour.

It wasn’t in a mood to get up. It was almost 5.30pm and we allowed the big cat to rest and start moving since we have to get out from the park by 6.30pm.

We woke up early in the morning and cleared the gate by 6.15am. Hoping that we will have some luck today as well.

And then we were lucky again.. Though it vanished to the jungle very fast.

Then we found a carcass secured nicely on top of a tree. We were there for a long time and went to the same place several times to see if we can see the leopard on top.. but we were not lucky..

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Some people do not understand this… 

Some people do not understand this… 

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The was the only jumbo we met..

The was the only jumbo we met..

.

That was the end of the 2nd day.. We saw three leopards but could capture only one since one was way inside the thick jungle and one we saw in the dark n far away…

Third and last day morning was the best. We met a leopard very close as soon as we started the safari. Pics will tell you the story.

We were next to the leopard for about 15 mins and took all the pics we need. It went to sleep and the place started to get crowded. So we decided to go from there and have breakfast. We went and checked the boar carcass .it was half gone. Guess that was the reason for the big cat’s sleepiness 

After breakfast we started to move around again. Then suddenly saw two cubs in the road and they vanished to the thick jungle in a flash. Were able to see the mother leopard too by the naked eye through the trees. Wish we were lucky to capture that rare moment with 3 leopards.. This was the only clear pic I was able to take.

After finishing the morning safari, we came to the hotel and had lunch. Thanked the jeep driver Dammika and hotel owner Tiuder for all the support. Came back home happily in the same route talking how lucky we were again. Same like last time in Yala. But wonder when we will see a sloth bear Image may be NSFW.
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:-)
 looking forward to see one during the next Kumana camping in September!!!

Thanks for reading the report. Will write soon!!!

 

Exploring Highest Mountain Peak in Knuckles – Gombaniya

Year and Month August, 2013
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew 6 (between 28-37 years of age)
Accommodation Camping
Transport Hired Van
Activities Hiking / Photography / Relaxing
Weather Sunny in the morning. Misty in the evening.
Route Colombo -> Kaduwela -> Balumahara -> Kandy -> Huluganga -> Allakolla Estate and return in same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Accompany a person from that area as a tracker or else you need Maps and GPS receiver.
  • Not necessary to carry water, there are water streams, but better to carry empty water bottle to fill it, since at higher altitude there were no water sources.
  • Ropes are not necessary, but an advantage.
  • prepared for leeches attack
  • Do not carry Plastic items, Make sure you bring back everything you took
Author Sanketha
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

One of my favorite hiking places is knuckles. I can still remember my first trip to knuckles about decade back. It was in 2003 and we went to Meemure and hike Lakegala Mountain. After that I went several times to Knuckles range with different entry points. Last time in April 2013 we hike Knuckles peaks. After this I had a dream to climb highest peak in Knuckles range, its Gombaniya Mountain. I read a trip report published in LAKDASUN. One of my friends coming to Sri Lanka for his vacation. Normally he does hikes. He is very experience hiker – Lasitha. Also there are two other friends of mine, Hiruna and Chaturanga. They are also experience hikers. With two other new comers Rukmal and Asanga we planned to hike Gombaniya on Esala Poya.

I and Asanka started to travel at 3:30 AM from Kotte by hired van. Chaturanga joined us from Kaduwella and Hiruna and Rukmal joined from Biyagama road. We were able to reach Lasitha’s house in Kandy around 6:30 AM. From his home we had breakfast tea and also his mother gave us breakfast and lunch packets. At 7:00 AM we left from Lasitha’s house and went to Huluganga, by another hired van. We had our breakfast on the way. It was pol-rotty with potato. At 9:00 AM we were at Allakolla Estate upper division. From there onwards we have to walk with our Bags.

By using tea estate road and some shortcuts we were able to reach border of tea estate around 11 AM. There is a resting place where it seems to be used as Resort. We had a rest there and started hiking with our bags. Our intention was to hike Gombaniya without a guide exploring by ourselves. After entering the forest the path is dividing to two and we took left turn since we thought it should be the way to Gombaniya since it’s on that direction. This foot path went to the small Shiva kovil inside the forest. After that the path vanishes. We searched everywhere and couldn’t found clue. Then we decide to use map, compass and GPS device. After hiking another three hours inside the forest with steep ascends, we were able to reach a place where there is a dead-end. It’s too sleep to climb from there (altitude ~ 1600m).

Time is around 2:00 PM we thought of finding a camping place before getting dark. There were few water sources, but we couldn’t find a flat land to pitch the tent. Therefore we retrieve back to the tea estate border resting place. On the way we lost the path once, but able to find it using the help of GPS device. We were able to reach resting place at around 6:00 PM. After having cool bath at natural pool we had our lunch packets. Then we pitch the tent and went to sleep early for prepare challenging day ahead of us.

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Where we camped 1st day night

Where we camped 1st day night

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Early morning view of Gombaniya

Early morning view of Gombaniya

Next day morning first thing we did was again studying maps. We had both 1 inch map and 1:50,000 map. But it clearer in 1 inch map. We identified it should be accessible using valley between Gombaniya and Yakungegala. Morning we had bread with sini-sombol. We kept our bags there and took only worth items and biscuits, cheese, date and water bottles. Since it’s very hard to go through forest with bags and also climb steep ascends.

We started around 9:30. This time we took right turn and climb up-hill. Not like yesterday we can clearly see the mountain top on the way. About two hour climb we were reached to another Shiva Kovil inside forest. Similar to yesterday there is no clue to go here after. We explore the area and also according to our GPS unit we have to go to left. Another 3 hour climbs though think forest we were able to reach an opening, it was a breathtaking view. We can clearly see the drop of Yakungegala. Time was 2:30 PM and we thought of retrieve back to our camp site. We were happy with day achievement.
Finding way back is easy since we marked on trees. At 5:30 we were able to reach our camp site. Had a cool bath and prepare dinner, rice with dhal curry and soya meat. We went to sleep with dreaming climbing Gombaniya next day.

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Mountain tops covered with mist

Mountain tops covered with mist

3rd day morning we leave early at 7:30 AM after preparing Kadala for breakfast. About three hour we were able to reach the last point we reach yesterday. Since we know the path and it was cleared. From there onwards climb was tough. Steepness of ascend is more than 70 degrees and path is slippery with mud. After two tough hours we were able to reach altitude of 1830m. After that we couldn’t find a way up since everywhere there are steep rocks. Even we tried to go round but because of the drop there are no ways. We knew Gombaniya height is 1870m and we have to climb only 40m to reach the top. But we thought of not taking too many risk and happy with our achievement and turn back around 12:30 PM. We were able to reach our camp site around 4:30 PM.

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Mountains covered with mist

Mountains covered with mist

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Mountains covered with mist

Mountains covered with mist

That day also we had cool bath and had grand dinner with rice, dhal curry, potato and soya. Next day morning we awake at 6:00 AM and get ready after having noodles at around 9:00 AM. We were able to reach Allakolla Estate entrance at around 11:30 PM. We went Lasitha’s house by hired van around 1:00 PM and had lunch from his house. We thank Lasitha’s family about their hospitality and leave by van at 2:00 PM. Kandy town was very crowded because of the Esela Perahera. Anyway we were able to reach Kiribathgoda around 5:30 PM.

This was one of adventures hike and it will remain in my mind for so many years.

Thank you very much for reading my adventure.

 

Wiltshire the Bamboo forest #$#@%$@ (1200m)

Year and Month August, 2013
Number of Days one
Crew one
Accommodation Selani rest Matale
Transport Public transport / trishaw / Walking
Activities Hiking / Scenery / Trekking / Photography
Weather Cloudy day
Route Matale -> Aluvihare -> Asgiriya division -> Mathale -> Koholanwala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Wear attire suitable for protection against thorns.
  • Use Leech repellents
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Don’t disturb wild life
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Main obstacle is BAMBOO bushes
  • ou need a good knife (Rambo) one or a Keththa to cut through the bushes (it’s a must)
  • Road leading to Asgiriya from Etipola road is under construction and one needs good ground clearance
  • Keep an open eye on the weather (if it rains the hike is tough)
Related Resources
Author Ashan
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The map

The map – Click to enlarge

Last year when we hiked brandy rock I did note a nearby mountain range obscuring the view towards Matale and knuckles range. Since then I was eyeing on this peak (Wiltshire/Alu vihare Kanda), almost after and year I was all ready to venture on but as usual couldn’t find any companions. Amila who promised to join me also couldn’t make it because of a bike accident. I arrived at Matale on the previous day and stayed at Selina guest close to McDowell Fort. Next day early morning I wondered around the fort wall and entered the cemetery which lies in the fort premises. Close to this fort recently a mass burial site was found and the remains found were thought to be belonging to the rebels who fought against the British during the historical Matale rebellion which took place in 1848. Except for the outer wall there is not much to see these days. There were few monuments around Matale which were linked to the historical rebellion but I deferred exploring those and stuck to my main objective.

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Matale rebellion

In 18’s people of Sri Lanka were struggling very hard to get rid of the iron clutches of British administration. British have introduced many laws and taxes such as Barren land law that virtually took everything from the indigenous people. The Sinhalese and people of other ethnic groups got united and fought against the British army. Uwa Wellassa Karelle and Matale Karella are two noteworthy rebellion of Sri Lankan against British, which helped the country to reach independence in 1948. Matale Rebellion, which took place in 1848, had distracted even the king of British.

Uwa rebellion was widely spread throughout the island from the Dambulla temple. It was ceremonially initiated by Ven.Girattegama Indrajothi thera on 26th July 1848 with Rajabhisheka (coronation) of Gongalegoda banda as the king of the Kandyan kingdom. Another key figure of the rebellion was Virapuranappu arrived to Dambulla from Moratuwa and was appointed as the leader of the Sinhalese army.  At the beginning the Sinhalese army was consisting of 3000 soldiers. As the war broke out Matale, Kurunegala, Borella were under fire and British governor imposed the martial law covering the whole island. Sinhalese forces were joined by soldiers from other regions such as Kurunegala.

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th of August 1848, there was a fierce battle between Sinhalese forces and British army in Matale. Three British regiments were on the battle under the leadership of Captain McDowell, Captain Lili and Captain Watson. With the sophisticated war equipments the British forces were able to dominate the battle and Sinhalese forces had to retreat. Sinhalese forces encamped in several places around Matale. Vira Puran Appu and large number of Sinhalese soldiers encamped in Wariyapola. Captain M.J.Mcdowell built a fort adjoining the governor’s office of Matale. Even today the ruin of the fort can be seen at the site and it is known as fort McDowell. After following a tip about the hiding place of Vira Puran Appu and his followers were taken into custody by the British forces. They were killed by shooting at the Bogambara on August 8th 1848.several Sinhalese soldiers, who were under Vira Puran Appu were shot dead near the Fort McDowell. Several, other Sinhalese leaders were hanged near the fort of Mcdowell. Gongale Goda Bnada was sent in exile to s foreign country. 376 people, who played an important role in the rebellion was imprisoned on the charges of disobeying the British queen. Kudapola thera was also among the British prisoners.

There are several monuments remembering the Matale rebellion, monument of Captain Lili is located in Wariyapola on the A-9 main road. There are several other monuments in Matale and around remembering British. But, there are very few monuments to remember the brave soldiers of Sinhalese army, other than statues of Gongale God Band and Vira Puran Appu, there are no monuments to remember the Sinhalese forces. The fort of McDowell is a leading monument of the rebellion that still resides in Matale. There are nine gravestones in the garden of the fort believed to be places, where the several Sinhalese were buried. But there are no written evidences to prove the identity of the people, who were buried in the fort.

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Very difficult to spot this board

Very difficult to spot this board

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Witshire peak covered with mist as seen from matale town

Witshire peak covered with mist as seen from matale town

After having some breakfast I took off in search of the Madiwela bus and since no one was sure about its arrival on that day I took an Etipola bus and got off at the Madiwela turn off and walked about 4Km’s to reach Asgiriya division where Brandy rock, Etipola range and Wiltshire could be seen clearly. The mountain tops were kissed by the mist and the breeze on the top was notable even from ground zero. I further walked towards the Kovil at Asgiriya division and reached the line houses. No one agreed to show me the way saying the path was covered with bushes but they also mentioned that if I could get to the “Gala” I could see Matale town clearly.

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Brandy rock covered with mist

Brandy rock covered with mist

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the twin peaks of wiltshire kissed by mist

the twin peaks of wiltshire kissed by mist

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Wiltshire range as seen from Brandy rock

Wiltshire range as seen from Brandy rock

So I was alone and I had no companion despite all of my attempts. It was all about trekking to the observation point and the clear view of the rock I wanted to reach was the only aid I had. First it was a continuous climb through the tea estate until I reached the forest boundary and after climbing further up I reached the neck of Wiltshire range. From here I proceeded towards the direction of the summit and within no time I was greeted by Mana bushes. There was a foot path through the mana which I choose to follow until the bush cover started to get dense. The view from this mana plain was simply amazing the contrast of the images were taken at that moment was so perfect that I couldn’t stop clicking around.

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Grey headed Canary Flycatcher

Grey headed Canary Flycatcher

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path was missing from here onwards

path was missing from here onwards

Nightmare struck me within no time. It was BAMBOO standing as a wall in front of me. After seen these bushes my heart came in to my mouth and I was wondering if to go around them but if I did so I would have had to climb up through bamboo bushes which was not a good idea. I was determined through crash through the bamboo and stick to the theoretical path along the neck of the range. So it begun I was crawling along animal pathways which ran through the bamboo bushes but with the bag I was pulled back at most instances. Sometimes to proceed one meter I had to waste more than two minutes. The Bamboos were acting as springs by pushing me back and trying to exhaust me and deny my right of viewing Matale from top of Wiltshire.

After all that trouble I again found the lost part just before the summit of the 2nd peak which the locals call as the “balum gala”. The rock summit is also covered with bushes and it’s very hard to find a proper place to rest even. But the view from it was what I was searching for. Matale town was so huge that it seemed like whole of Matale has lost its forest cover the busy streets and the bus stand could be seen clearly from this point. After clicking few panoramas it was time locate some landmarks. I could identify Kandalama, Bowatenna, Arangala, western view of Knuckles mountains and even Lakegala could be seen peeping through a gap. Karagahatenna, Reverston and other peaks were almost touching the clouds. On other side Hanthana and Kandy region could be noted while mountains like Alagalla and Bathalegala also could be viewed. On the opposite side Etipola mountain was obscuring the view towards Kurunegala but Yakdessagala and Dolukanda was seen without any problem at all! The peak with a mana plain was about 100 meters away but I decided not to risk things by pushing myself to the extreme.. If it wasn’t for the Bamboo bushes I would have gone there but things were not in my favour on that particular day.

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knuckles seen behind rathtota

knuckles seen behind rathtota

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other side of the range was all pines

other side of the range was all pines

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part of the huge town of matale

part of the huge town of matale

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pano towards Etipola and mawanella

pano towards Etipola and mawanella

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pano towards matale and Knuckles range

pano towards matale and Knuckles range

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dolukanda and kibulwana reservoir

dolukanda and kibulwana reservoir

Getting down was much harder than climbing up and losing the way was included in that special package. So I had to make a new path while descending through the tormenting Bamboo bushes and finally found the path I climbed up. Felt really relieved at that moment when I found the path! After getting back to the tea estate I found a natural stream where I decided to have a wash and a change. There were about 20 leeches who I never bothered to remove until that moment. To make things worse it was continuously bleeding. After refreshing myself I felt like I returned to heaven after visiting hell but yet contented with what I achieved for the day. After getting to the road I found no trishaw driver willing to go on a hire even. So in the not sun I walked 4Km’s until Etipola road was met. I was tired and couldn’t walk anymore, so got in to a trishaw which was going towards Matale for a discounted price, which made my mood. After reaching Matale I looked back towards the daunting mountain at the backdrop of the city and gave it a smile before proceeding towards my night halting place to end one of the most tiring journeys for the year.

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wish I had a sword to cut through these

wish I had a sword to cut through these

Thanks for reading!

 

One-Day Bonanza: Embracing The Milky Way – Wewelwatte…

Year and Month 04 Aug 2013
Number of Days 1
Crew 9 (Age: As usual classified)(Tony / Athula / Wuminda / Prince / Prasad and his wife / Harsha / Prasanna / Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Hired Van
Activities Photography, Waterfall Hunting, etc…
Weather Gloomy in the morning and Heavy Rains since then.
Route Colombo->Palmadulla->Balangoda->Wewelwatte->Ratnapura->Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Try to avoid rain as much as possible coz it can ruin many photographic opportunities and make the life miserable.
  • Leech protection is a must.
  • Plenty of water essential. Those streams may not be good for drinking.
  • Don’t leave polythene or plastic behind. Take all the garbage with you and dump in at a suitable place.
  • When the water levels are high, please don’t attempt to bathe. The water levels increase dramatically and the base pools are deeper than they look. Be safe.
  • Raincoat with a waterproof camera cover would be ideal. An umbrella might not stand in the winds.
  • Take as many pics as possible and help protect the environment as much as you can.
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It was 23 June, Poson Poya Day when we went on the “Moon Walkers on a Quest of Their Own – Kalthota” and it turned out to be a cracker.

Since then I’d been in the middle of a travelling storm and missed our unique Poya Day quest in July. So I wanted to make amends and do our third consecutive ASAP.

As usual, Facebook came into my rescue and I sent around the request asking if they can spare 04 Aug and the replies were very positive. Anyway, not many people knew that Tony’s allowed only one trip a month and he did it with me to Meemure (There I said it:)). So it was another reason why it got shifted to August.

Unfortunately Danushka missed out this time coz his mother-in-law was going abroad and he and Thilini had to chip in with the preparations. He was very reluctant to back our but our experienced fellow Tony strongly advised (From past experience) not to take a chance when it comes to family things. It was great to have him and that valuable experience after all.

So Dana followed his advice to the letter and we had two openings for somebody else. Anyway I’d been getting many requests from both Lakdasun members and other friends asking if they could join us and decided to get some of them with us. Things got a bit scary when Harsha said he too was very busy and we were gonna miss out both our professional photographers.

Then came Dodam (Prasad) and his wife coz he’d always been asking to join us. As soon as I called him and told about the trip, he was thrilled (but had to check with his wife first – typical husband) and fortunately she agreed. It left only one place should Harsha decided to back out and for good measure I called Indika (Lakdasun member who’s been very keen on hitting the road) but he had his office work.

So we were practically down to eight people but decided to take our chances and Tony came up with the vehicle from his area. At the last moment, Harsha confirmed his attendance and what else could have been better. We decided to tackle the widely-known Ratnapura-Wewelwatte road but Atha came up with a suggestion of his own. He said that we should hit it from Balangoda end so that next time we could easily cover the rest from Ratnapura area.

The senior guy had a point and to make matters very interesting, we decided to visit that beautiful girl who can be seen from Pelmadulla-Balangoda road over the lush paddy fields. She’s the 7th highest in SL (according to some sources 8th) and we didn’t wanna miss her for the world. Everything fell into place wonderfully and Tony picked Atha and the rest of Battaramulla crew and came for me by 5.15am and then picked Harsha and Prasanna respectively.

Tour Highlights:

1. Kirindi Ella, Pelmadulla – 116m
2. Elle Wala (aka Ali Wala), Meddakande (aka Dhodamgallena Falls) – About 10-15m
3. Alupola Ella, Alupola Estate – 68m
4. Dehena Ella (aka Gaslabu Ella, Damana Ella), Wewelwatte – 73m
5. Katu Kithul Ella, Amunutenna – 15m
6. Hal Ella, Amunutenna – 7m
7. Plenty of other unknown or unnamed falls (Could be seasonal ones)

The journey was as always so much fun coz we kept chatting away without care in the world about anything and everything that came into our minds. They went on from stinking politics to Ravana and World affairs through many others.

In the meantime, Tony wanted to show off his talents and sang us a nice poem about Maths and Sir Isaac Newton (don’t forget to ask him when you meet up) and it drowned us all in a laughing pool. Harsha too had some scary tales of how he defied death several times including Tsunami in 2004. He’d been very close to the affected Ahangama town and could’ve been the first in whole country to use 119 services.

Amid all these Kumaraya managed to sleep like a log in the front seat coz he couldn’t find anyone who’d be silly enough to listen to his never-ending tales. Suddenly he came out of his reveries at the mention of breakfast and we were around Kuruwita at that time. This brought some great memories of the last time demolition of French restaurant in Kuruwita and we unanimously decided to hit them hard again too providing they were still open after our initial onslaught on them.

Alas, they were and Kumaraya in his dreams almost missed the place but the huge Filling Station saved the day. We all got down a bit nervously and sent Dodam and his wife in front to camouflage our arrival to no avail. Those boys could remember us really well and this time too the attack was no different. However, Prasanna having done about 5-6 vegetable roties and God knows what else took a back seat while the rest of the team enjoyed a sumptuous meal.

We were joking of not having lunch and filled our tummies as much as they’d allow. It was time to say goodbye to that wonderful restaurant (Highly recommended – Breakfast buffet 300/-) which serves delicious meals.

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You can guess how much they enjoy the breakfast before a long day...

You can guess how much they enjoy the breakfast before a long day…

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The Team (From Left: Dodam's wife and him, Wuminda, Prasanna, Me, Prince, Young guns Atha and Tony)

The Team (From Left: Dodam’s wife and him, Wuminda, Prasanna, Me, Prince, Young guns Atha and Tony)

Kirindi Ella, Pelmadulla

We then set off in the direction of Pelmadulla to visit Kirindi Ella. Just before the Pelmadulla Bus Stop (about 500m) you’ll see the sign pointing on your left hand side towards Kirindi Ella. This is called Kuttapitiya Road (right in front of Cargills Food City). It’s about 5-6km to the falls and the road is in good condition except towards the tea estates where the state gets bit tricky due to constant travelling of tractors and Lorries to and from the Tea Factory. There’s also a bus service from Pelmadulla to Kuttapitiya but it didn’t look like as if there were plenty of them.

We reached the entrance to the falls with a massive board with the waterfall and info on the left of the road. On the right we saw the remains of what used to be a ticket counter, now almost in ruins. We felt that it would’ve been better if they keep it open and charge something so that it gives a job to someone and in the meantime generates an income so that the maintenance of the path and surrounding can be done easily.

The path begins right next to this hut with steps running downhill. About 100m down you come to the viewing platform where you can see the fall (most of it) from there. The view was absolutely stunning and we were speechless. We could see the top of the falls where water drops about 2-3ft before making the big mother. She wasn’t in full flow despite the heavy rains but there was plenty of water and we immediately wanted to get down ASAP.

Should you want to get down to the bottom of the falls, take the path downhill, small plants are grown covering the path at the beginning and you have to go down another 800m or so to the bottom. We were very grateful for whoever built those steps all the way coz the elevation is about 50-75m in that short distance and without steps, we would’ve struggled a lot.

At the bottom, you can see the full falls and she’s very wide about 50ft across covering the massive rock surface with her creamy water. We couldn’t take our eyes away from her and I felt as if I was in a trance. Everybody went into their own corners to take the best angle on their lenses regardless of the size of the camera. Athula and Harsha were busy mounting their tripods adding that professional touch.

As usual, we spent longer than we could afford with her (not unusual when you’re at the bottom of that massive falls towering over you like a mother Panda trying to cuddle her babies. Tony kept reminding that we had to make a move and the skies were threatening to open up, it all looked dark and gloomy but Sun kept peeping then and there to take that wonderful shot.

After about an hour and a half, we were climbing up and everybody felt the heat of climbing that steep bit. There was that young boy (Tony) kept taking breaks and by the time I caught up with him, he was panting so heavily with his tongue all the way out. We saw plenty of beer cans scattered all around with so many polythene bags, biscuit wrappers and numerous garbage. There was a toilet built now covered completely with the overgrown trees due to lack of maintenance. The mentally disabled people had done their bit with breaking the bottles and spreading them all around, so watch your step. Always wear shoes coz they tend to get through rubber slippers.

Kumaraya as usual was the first in and out coz he knows it’s the only way to avoid as many leeches as you can but we didn’t come across many. Back on the road, it was time for the main objective and we hurried towards Balangoda.

Here’s a short video of Kirindi Ella.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlJXt_IcNCs

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The sign board at the entrance to the falls

The sign board at the entrance to the falls

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The ticket counter and a shop in ruins...

The ticket counter and a shop in ruins…

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From the view point about 100m down

From the view point about 100m down

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Would've loved to see more water

Would’ve loved to see more water

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The top where you can see the water flowing nicely

The top where you can see the water flowing nicely

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National butterfly of SL - Sri Lanka Birdwing (Troides darsius) Source: Harsha

National butterfly of SL – Sri Lanka Birdwing (Troides darsius)
Source: Harsha

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The team: From Left - Harsha, Prasanna, Wumi, Prince, Me, Tony, Dodam and his wife, Athula…

The team: From Left – Harsha, Prasanna, Wumi, Prince, Me, Tony, Dodam and his wife, Athula…

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Thanks a million for whoever built these

Thanks a million for whoever built these

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Going up tested all of our stamina

Going up tested all of our stamina

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Wagging nineteen to the doze

Wagging nineteen to the doze

Elle Wala (aka Ali Wala / Dhodamgallena Ella), Meddakande.

We reached Balangoda and took the Rassagala road which is 10km away from Balangoda. About 2km, Atha suddenly stopped the vehicle coz he’d asked his friend Anuruddha (who helped us find the Diyawini Ella last time) to help us locate the waterfalls but hadn’t remembered to call him in advance to inform our arrival. Fortunately, he was in Balangoda and came rushing to meet us and in his rush had misplaced the spare helmet (must’ve dropped it somewhere).

However, he couldn’t spare a lot of time but offered to take us as far as Meddakande where this gorgeous waterfall is located. She’s clearly visible from the main road over the Meddakande tea estate. Take the left at the junction and after about 500m, just before the Meddakande Co-operative shop; turn yet again to the left which is a concrete paved road. Go right down about another 1km or so and the road will end at a household. From here, it’s another 300m or so walk along the tiny canal and then through a manioc cultivation right to the base of the falls.

When inquired about the name of the falls, the villagers said it’s called “Elle Wala” and one old grand ma said this is also called “Ali Wala” as it used to bathe elephants in the 70s. However, I came across this name “Dhodamgallena Ella” as well. So you can pick your name. She’s about 40-45ft in height and curves in the middle creating this nice folded saree look. She wasn’t in full flow either but still managed to retain her good looks. Harsha kept saying she looked so tempting and gorgeous and I tend to believe that man coz he sees things in a professional’s eye.

This is where Tony decided to improve his firing skills using two tripods of Harsha and Atha to make a mock GPMG (General Purpose Machine Gun). However on the melee of everything, he managed to leave Harsha’s tripod behind at the house in the end of the road. It started raining and we just stopped at this house for cover and he’d left it there. We didn’t notice it till we were about 1km away towards Rassagala when Harsha out of nowhere began to wonder where the tripod was.

We took a turn and came back to Meddakande junction where Harsha and Wuminda took a tuk-tuk to go get it back. Fortunately it was still there where they had left and the house holders had been very surprised. The rain was now really coming in torrents and pelting like pebbles on a roofing sheet. We had no proper raincoats or umbrellas and taking those crucial pics were practically impossible. Fortunately, Tony had brought his waterproof jacket and I used it as a shelter to get out and take those important landmarks on the lens.

Managed to get a video of this as well: (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtZBi-5GMLs)

 

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The concrete path lies passing this tree

The concrete path lies passing this tree

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Seen many times but pictured first time

Seen many times but pictured first time

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Couldn't leave all these alone

Couldn’t leave all these alone

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Goraka... (was looking for fresh ones coz the core flesh is very tasty but found none)

Goraka… (was looking for fresh ones coz the core flesh is very tasty but found none)

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Not a lot of water but still keeping her elegance

Not a lot of water but still keeping her elegance

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Lush greenery enveloping us

Lush greenery enveloping us

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Beautiful but don't eat the yam...

Beautiful but don’t eat the yam…

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The small channel where you have to walk to the falls

The small channel where you have to walk to the falls

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The path lies to the left of the pic along the fence

The path lies to the left of the pic along the fence

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The Ali Wala where elephants were bathed

The Ali Wala where elephants were bathed

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We kept stopping for these

We kept stopping for these

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There it comes.... rain pelting down hard and you have to take the left just before this

There it comes…. rain pelting down hard and you have to take the left just before this

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The landmark at the Meddakande junction

The landmark at the Meddakande junction

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The fall seen from the road

The fall seen from the road

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Rain or no rain, they gotta keep working

Rain or no rain, they gotta keep working

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Miniature with their loads

Miniature with their loads

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Meddakande junction.... take the left after the van

Meddakande junction…. take the left after the van

 

Alupola Ella, Alupola Estate

When we reached Rassagala amid pouring rains, Tony and Athula got down to ask about the falls ahead and the directions. There was this shop and Harsha wanted to get something to munch coz we were almost certain to miss the lunch. The shop owner, a lady, was deeply engrossed in watching some super cross (Possibly Minneriya Super Cross) on TV and very reluctantly got up to serve us. It was so amusing to her keenness on motor cross.

We bought Halapa, Wandu and Bananas which evaporated in seconds the moment it was given to the crew. It showed how hungry the folks were, rain must’ve been the main reason. Tony and Atha had got some important pieces of information for our journey. Getting key directions to the waterfalls and the villagers had strongly advised not to go bathing in the rivers or water falls. What they didn’t know was that we were not a bunch of ragheads looking for a place to drink to unconscious but a crazy gang of nature lovers trying to defy the heavy rains.

Tony got the directions and sat in the front coz Kumaraya was falling asleep and we had to shout from the back to keep the bugger awake. The road from there was one of the most scenic ones in SL. We kept climbing uphill through tea estates and came across many seasonal falls. Just passing Rassagala we came across a waterfall like waterway coming down through a stony ditch from the tea plantations uphill and Tony kept asking me what the name we can give her. There was no point coz it’s just coming down that ditch.

Just passing that we came across another somewhat large falls around Uwella. It was about 20ft in height and what’s more, she became “Uwella Falls”, very natural way of naming. We couldn’t get down so all had to zoom through the window. Harsha had a large hanky tied around his lens and took pictures while I had no such thing for my point and shoot. My method was easy, point-and-shoot, wipe the barrel off, clean the lens with tissue again point and shoot. My camera wasn’t waterproof but it turned out it can handle a lot of water though.

 

The rain kept pelting down and we reached Wellawala and I soon saw a mini St. Claire at the bend just passing the small town. She was falling in two parts with a considerably longer gap between them. The first bit was about 6-8ft in height and after about 100m or so the second part which was the taller one out of the two. It was about 15-20ft in height and very wide resembling my beloved St. Claire. There was no way we could get out but I couldn’t just stay inside and saw a person coming from the shops with an umbrella. Having put the waterproof jacket on my head, I dashed out and ran to him startling him. I got him to stand here and there and stayed under the umbrella while taking lot pics. He too enjoyed this encounter and let me get on with my job protecting me and my camera with his umbrella. She was named “Wellawala Falls” and we pushed on.

Another couple of kilometers and we came to the Alupola Ella road on our right. I’m afraid I simply can’t give you a land mark at this point but keep checking with the people and it’s one of the most prominent falls in the area and you can’t miss it. We turned and on the way towards the Alupola Ella, could see a massive waterfall below in the next mountain range. This was the Beruwatte Falls which is on Wewelwatte-Balangoda road about 1.5km away in Balakotunna Village.

Finally we reached a junction where the road divided into two parts, the first going straight on while the second took left via a very narrow concrete bridge without any supports at either end. We mistakenly took the straight one but had to turn back and take the concrete bridge one when we checked from the Alupola Tea Leaves collection center. It was such a grueling task to pluck and carry all those heavy sacks of tea leaves to this point and we felt very sorry for those poor workers. If they didn’t work, they wouldn’t get paid and so heart breaking to see them doing these back-breaking things without a proper rest and a wage.

Taking the narrow bridge tested our driver’s skills and we passed without incident. Then through the lush green, we arrived finally at the falls. There a bridge and two houses in the far (one of them is a shop) and there’s a sheltering garbage collection place with three barrels to separate them. It was still pouring and we decided to improvise. Tony, Wumi and Prasanna ran to the shop beyond the bridge and bought a few large plastic bags. They cut this on one end and make temporary corn-shaped head covers but they wouldn’t stand a chance in the intense rains.

I jumped out and ran to the garbage collection shelter which was barely covered me. From there I got a good view of the bottom part of the falls and saw nothing but white curtain on the top. I felt very disappointed to have come all the way to see this tiny waterfall then out of nowhere Tony ran forward ignoring the rain completely shouting “Look at that” and when I looked up all I saw was a massive tree-trunk shaped waterfall coming down straight from the sky.

 

Then only we realized the size of the actual falls. She was so tall and the top part was completely covered from mist and water vapor. It wasn’t visible at all but on and off the mist lifted to give us a glimpse of what laid underneath. Athula, Harsh and Wuminda all gathered around me in that tiny shelter and they were standing inside those barrels without giving a toss but completely concentrating on the falls.

Tony and Atha ran through the tea plants to get a better view and brought back a few dozens of leeches with them for Kumaraya and Wumi’s horror. We stayed put nearly half hour without success and finally decided to go see the rest of them. We had re-invigorating coffee at a nearby shop and the owner said the rain only stopped for 2-3 days during the whole last month. We didn’t feel unlucky hearing this.

We then headed towards Wewelwatte and suddenly stopped at another big waterfall around 30ft+ in height. Through the windows came click, click and click and we were soon on our way. Tony wanted to call her “Alupolla Ella-2” and we had no choice. Passing Wewelwatte junction where the road on the left takes you back to Balangoda and the right one to Ratnapura, we took the right and after 1km or so later saw the sign board saying “Beruwatte Falls” 2km away. We turned around and took the Balangoda road, after 1.5km or so, came to the signature “Mud covered House”; rather a kitchen coz the house is now built using bricks and painted white. There was a tiny footpath and without second thoughts ran along it with our temporary head covers. Atha and Wumi ran in front defying the leeches and found the river is too strong and wide to cross after about 100m.

 

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Tony kept asking for a name for this but it's just a ditch

Tony kept asking for a name for this but it’s just a ditch

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Shooting through the window

Shooting through the window

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We had to take turns and kept our cameras from the pouring water

We had to take turns and kept our cameras from the pouring water

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Can you see all those animals? We of course didn't

Can you see all those animals? We of course didn’t

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Wellawala Falls, again our name...

Wellawala Falls, again our name…

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Imagine the rain... the camera had a tough time focusing on the falls through the rain

Imagine the rain… the camera had a tough time focusing on the falls through the rain

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Sheltering under the garbage collection shed

Sheltering under the garbage collection shed

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We thought it's only this bit

We thought it’s only this bit

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All of a sudden, the mist lifted and the sky was pouring water... we were shell-shocked

All of a sudden, the mist lifted and the sky was pouring water… we were shell-shocked

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The water was falling ferociously

The water was falling ferociously

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Holy - Moly - Guacamole

Holy – Moly – Guacamole

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I ran to the other side to get a better view but not a chance

I ran to the other side to get a better view but not a chance

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The doggy was wet and hungry we fed him 3 large biscuits

The doggy was wet and hungry we fed him 3 large biscuits

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The ghost of Alupola - Tony showing his dancing skills

The ghost of Alupola – Tony showing his dancing skills

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This fellow was fast asleep

This fellow was fast asleep

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Frowning at me for waking him up

Frowning at me for waking him up

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Practically every bridge had a waterfalls

Practically every bridge had a waterfalls

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The path through the windscreen

The path through the windscreen

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It was falling in two straight lines

It was falling in two straight lines

Dehena Ella, Wewelwatte (Gaslabu Ella / Damana Ella)

We had to give in coz there was no way we were gonna cross it. However, it was so sad to leave her having come so close. She was another 300m or so away. What to do we turned back and went along Wewelwatte-Ratnapura road and all of a sudden saw this massive waterfall among the forest uphill. We figured it could be the “Mandanagiri Falls” but had no clear footpath to it. Then passing another huge bridge we saw yet another waterfall but only the bottom part was visible and couldn’t get through the river bank or the forest to go further in. Checking this later, this could’ve been the last section of “Pandi Oya Falls” which is nearly 6km inside the jungle but couldn’t be sure.

Then came the moment of truth. There was this massive girl on our right hand side sending many millions of tiny droplets of water. To see, she’s the really famous and the tallest of all, Dehena Ella. Over 240ft in height and she was coming down in with loads of water showing her beauty in full flow. We could hardly get to the other side of the road via the bridge due to the water vapors and taking pics of her took so much effort. Harsha used Tony’s waterproof jacket as a shield while we had to seek shelter in the bus stop right in front of her.

The view was spectacular yet we had to resort to our unique technic of wipe and shoot method. There’s also a viewing platform built on the side of the falls but the whole area was wet and slippery. Treading carefully and avoiding passing vehicles, we managed to shoot a lot pics and take a short video too. What a breath-taking beauty she actually was and I wished thousands of times the rain would stop just for a wee bit but to no avail.

Check out my short video of her on YouTube: (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6Qg0QXGlbk)

 

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Heading towards Dehena Ella

Heading towards Dehena Ella

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Everywhere you can see so much water

Everywhere you can see so much water

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Just after Wewelwatte Junction we saw this board and decided to turn around

Just after Wewelwatte Junction we saw this board and decided to turn around

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The foot path to the Beruwatte falls to the left

The foot path to the Beruwatte falls to the left

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The Landmark house but we missed seeing the falls

The Landmark house but we missed seeing the falls

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At the Wewelwatte Junction

At the Wewelwatte Junction

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This certainly was a lot bigger but couldn't go around due to the rain and slippery path

This certainly was a lot bigger but couldn’t go around due to the rain and slippery path

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The water flowing under that bridge

The water flowing under that bridge

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The spectacular waterfall - Dehena Ella

The spectacular waterfall – Dehena Ella

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Right at the top is not so visible

Right at the top is not so visible

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Would've been nice to have a cuppa tea but not a chance

Would’ve been nice to have a cuppa tea but not a chance

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The bust stop helped us take pics

The bust stop helped us take pics

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I could pic a beautiful princess in silk

I could pic a beautiful princess in silk

Katu Kithul Ella & Hal Ella, Amunutenna

It was getting dusk and we decided to step on the gas and get to Ratnapura soon. We were in a manner of speaking, hopelessly lost due to the rain. We had the directions but there was hardly anyone about in that torrential downpour to check. We on the other hand had no means of tackling the rain as raincoats and umbrellas were left behind.

After another few kilometers, we came to a complex of waterfalls where two waterfalls were coming down on either side. The one on the right is called “Hal Ella” (I actually got to know this name after the journey when comparing my pics) and the one on the left doesn’t have any name. Fortunately the rain had decided to leave us alone for the last leg of our marathon and we got down and took some pics.

Just another 100m or so away was another waterfall and she too was very beautiful. Like the Hal Ella, I got her name as “Katu Kithul Ella” after the journey. They were pretty much very close to each other and easy to spot on. However, these two looked more like seasonal falls and when the rains is away, it would just be a trickle down the rocks.

 

We then went passing many other villages and everybody was getting hungry. Our van had been used as leeches for travelling for free. Tony, Prasanna and Wuminda kept finding them inside the van and every time they do, I could see Prince twitching in the front seat. He was not very keen on getting down due to this and remained most of the time in the van.

We reached a shop selling hoppers and Wade and everybody wanted to jump out and eat. I had to give in eventually and they all started gobbling down hoppers at hundred miles an hour. There was a shout from the road and Harsha, ever the curious, came in laughing coz he’d heard one of Prasanna’s friends talking to him and using his pet name. I’m not sure if it’s a good idea to put that name on the report, so I’ll leave it and if you ever come across him, just ask him.

Finally after a hearty meal, we were on our way and soon got enveloped by the traffic on the high level road. It was such a dramatic journey and so much water came across us in all forms and everyone was soaked to the bone. Wuminda kept saying that he’d always wanted to do a journey like this and finally his dream came through. The Wewelwatte is full of these beautiful known and unknown waterfalls and I decided to call her the Milky Way.

So folks, hope you enjoyed my fairy tale and those beautiful girls…

Take care…

 

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Twin falls drawn by my camera

Twin falls drawn by my camera

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On the right - Hal Ella but no name for the left one

On the right – Hal Ella but no name for the left one

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Unnamed falls on the right

Unnamed falls on the right

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Looks like a seasonal falls

Looks like a seasonal falls

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Katu Kithul Ella about 100m away

Katu Kithul Ella about 100m away from Hal Ella

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This could also be a seasonal falls

This could also be a seasonal falls

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The professional touch: Harsha and me

The professional touch: Harsha and me

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In fact two on either side

In fact two on either side

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Hungry... Prince having two wades inside and trying to squeeze a hopper too in

Hungry… Prince having two wades inside and trying to squeeze a hopper too in

 

The Little New Zealand – and Along the Railway Track to Ohiya

Year and Month August, 2013 (17th to 20th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 16 – three families (7 kids and 9 adults )(age group 4 – 75)
Accommodation MILCO Circuit Bungalow, Ambewela
Transport Train, bus, car, tuk-tuk
Activities Family trip, Site-seeing & Railway hike
Weather Excellent weather – sunny and bright – not a drop of rain to spoil the fun
Route
  • Colombo to Ambewela by train
  • Pattipola to Ohiya by foot and return by train
  • Ambewela to Nuwara Eliya by train+bus and return by bus
  • Ambewela to Colombo by train
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Reserve train tickets 14 days prior to the journey.
  • Check train schedules before embarking on a railway hike.
  • Leave as early as possible to make maximum use of the day.
  • Walk on the sidewalk of railway as much as possible
  • Carry a torch per person
  • Obtain prior permission to visit Milco Factory.
Author Nayani
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Every year we do a family trip by train during August School Vacation and the kids eagerly wait for this excitement. We thought of making use of the long week-end 17th – 20th August (of course taking off on Monday, 19th) and our destination this year was Ambewela. Reserving train tickets in advance was the most challenging task of the whole operation as the upcountry trains are very much in demand during school holidays. Two families were to travel by the train and the other family (from Kandy) was to travel by car and join us at Ambewela.

There are three trains in the morning from Colombo to Badulla – 5.55am, 8.30am, 9.45am and the night-mail as usual at 8.00 pm. Reservation opens 14 days prior to the day of travel and you can book via Mobitel or by visiting the Fort Railway Station. The new trains do not have an Observation Saloon but you can reserve First Class (A/C), Second Class or Third Class seats in the brand new power-sets.

We were fortunate to get seats in Podikenike leaving Colombo at 5.55 a.m. It was jam packed all the way till we got off at Ambewela but the kids enjoyed the journey a lot. A large number of foreigners too got in from Kandy and many were going to Ella – a very popular tourist destination

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Enjoying the huffing and puffing up the hills……

Enjoying the huffing and puffing up the hills……

Scheduled time for Ambewela was 1.15pm and we reached there by 2.00pm. The other party from Kandy was waiting for us at the closed rail gate, so it was perfect timing as we all reached Ambewela together.

Ambewela is a pretty small town and if you are coming by train the mode of transportation would by bus or tuk-tuks – a new addition to Ambewela. It is difficult to find a van for hire. Ambewela is on the bus route from Pattipola to Nuwara Eliya and there are a few buses– one via Meepilimana and one via Rendapola.

When we visited Ambewela two years ago there were no tuk-tuks and this is how we reached the MILCO bungalow.

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Our Experience on an earlier occasion…..two years ago…..

Our Experience on an earlier occasion…..two years ago…..

Since it was our very first visit we did not know that MILCO bungalow was just 1 km away from the station. This time we missed the opportunity of hopping on to an elf truck as there were tuk-tuks readily waiting at the station. We sent the younger kids and a grandma with the baggages and walked the 1 km to the MILCO bungalow enjoying the surroundings.

MILCO (Highland) operates two circuit bungalows at Ambewela, close to the Spray Dried Milk Powder Factory. The bungalows are on the main road from Ambeweal to Pattipola. On your way to Worlds End you pass them 1km away from Ambewela town. You can’t miss them as there are hardly any buildings along this road. Reservation is not open to public but limited to Highland staff.

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Circuit Bungalow B – side view

Circuit Bungalow B – side view

The Bungalows consist of four bed rooms each and can accommodate 16-20. You have to bring your rations and there is a cook/bungalow keeper to do the cooking.

We reached our bungalow (B) around 2.30 and had lunch (brought from home). We then went back to town (Ambewela) and bought rations for the next two days. Do not expect much from this sleepy town with a few boutiques. We had to go from kade to kade to buy the stuff – even veggies.

We decided to visit New Zealand Farm in the evening which is only 3-4 kms away. It is open till 6pm on week-ends. The little ones with the grandmas went in the car and the rest took two tuk-tuks from the bungalow. Each charged only Rs.400/= for the round trip. It was a very pleasant journey late in the afternoon. The wind power plant, which is a new addition to the landscape, looked like giants standing on the green grass.

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On the way to the New Zealand Farm…..

On the way to the New Zealand Farm…..

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On the way to the New Zealand Farm…..

On the way to the New Zealand Farm…..

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Farm in the evening sun…

Farm in the evening sun…

Though we’ve visited the farm many a times the kids enjoyed every minute of it. (despite the smell in the sheds). The final milking for the day is at 5.30 and after witnessing the event we called the tuk-tuks to pick us from the farm.

We reached the bungalow around 7 dead tired after a long day. Our cook, Saman, a very friendly chap, had prepared a delicious dinner that disappeared from the table in no time. We all went early to bed as we had many things plans for the next day.

DAY 2

The highlight of the trip was to do a railway hike from Pattipola to Ohiya. The kids (the elder ones) were so eager after I guided them through Lakdasun trip reports such as Life Along the Railways of Uva, Memorable Journey to Ohiya and Rail hike from Demodara to Pattipola– all describing the excitement of a railway hike. It was a totally novel thing and we were looking forward to it after reading all those reports as well as enjoying the attached photos. It was obvious that the entire crowd could not do the hike – we had grandmas, grandpas and babies. So it was decided the four youngsters with grandmas would visit Worlds End by the car and the three elder kids join the hike with the rest of us – well that included two grandpas aged 75 and 72. The elder kids did not mind missing out Worlds End as they did the full trail twice last year.

We had an early breakfast of Kiribath that Saman prepared and left the bungalow by 8.am. To our relief it was a bright sunny day with no hint of rain. We got ourselves dropped at Pattipola rail gate as we wanted to preserve our energy for the hike. Moreover I read somewhere in Lakdasun that there is not much to see from Ambewela – Pattipola. So I was certain that we were not missing much if we start from Pattipola.

We talked to the Station Master and he advised us to wait for the Colombo bound train that would arrive in a short while and then proceed. We had studied the train schedule beforehand and our plan was to catch the next Colombo bound train from Ohiya at 11 am. We were also told that there will be a goods train around 10.30.

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Train from Baddulla approaching Pattipola Station (8.30 am)

Train from Baddulla approaching Pattipola Station (8.30 am)

We proceeded along the rail track enjoying the cool breeze in the pleasant morning. It wasn’t very chilly and to my disappointment there was no mist at all. Soon we reached the summit level.

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At the summit level –  two of us

At the summit level – two of us

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and the oldest participant of the hike

…..and the oldest participant of the hike

From Pattipola to Ohiya there was no human habitation nor was there any cultivation. We saw abandoned vegetable plots close to Pattipola but as we proceeded it was jungle on both sides of the track providing a panoramic view all the way.

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Abandoned buildings…a school????

Abandoned buildings…a school????

We came across these abandoned buildings just before Tunnel No.18. Wonder what they are? There was a fence blocking entry to the premises. They looked like abandoned buildings of a school- with the ground in front. Any idea???

Then came the peak of the hike – Tunnel No. 18. We have read enough and more about this tunnel on the forum and were armed with powerful torches. It is supposed to be the second longest tunnel on the upcountry line and more than 321mts long.

It was pitch dark inside the tunnel and we had to be cautious as the track was slippery with water coming from the tunnel wall. The kids were far ahead of us enjoying the new experience and we were out of the tunnel in less than ten minutes. My daughter’s complaint was it was not as spooky as it was supposed to be and not long enough!!

We also noticed a climatic change as well as a change in the surroundings when coming out of Tunnel No.18. When we entered it we were enjoying the cool breeze of Pattipola but the other end was more dry and warm.

Next came Tunnel 19, which was jus 20 mts long.

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Tunnel No 19 – just 20mtrs.

Tunnel No 19 – just 20mtrs.

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Panorama continued along the way…

Panorama continued along the way…

Tunnel No 20 was an entirely different story. It wasn’t pitch dark as tunnel No 18. It was as straight as an arrow and you could see the end. It is over 100 mts long and the walk through the tunnel is like a walk towards infinity. You walk and walk and walk but the end seems too far away. I found it more challenging than Tunnel No 18.

Then came the challenging task of crossing the railway bridge close to Ohiya. It was past 10:15 and we were conscious of the goods train we were warned of. Moreover a person working in a vegetable plot (the only person we met on the hike) warned us of the train scheduled around this time and advised us to wait till it pass to cross the bridge as there was hardly any room on the bridge in case a train approaches. So, we rested for a while and had some biscuits, waiting for the train to cross the bridge.

There was no sign of the train but we were reluctant to cross the brige exposing ourselves to danger. On the other hand we had to be at Ohiya to catch the 11 o”clock train if not the next train would be at 1:30, which would be a total waste of time. Fortunately I had the Ambewela Station number and when inquired we were told that it is running one hour late and still has not reached Nanu Oya. Relieved with the news we crossed the bridge taking our own time enjoying the elevated view.

After crossing the bridge we came to the last tunnel of our hike – Tunnel No:21-just 20 mts.

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Last Tunnel of the hike – Tunnel 21

Last Tunnel of the hike – Tunnel 21

After tunnel No 21 we hurried our stepts but still enjoying the breathtaking scenery along the railway

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Changing landscape towards Ohiya

Changing landscape towards Ohiya

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Changing landscape towards Ohiya

Changing landscape towards Ohiya

We reached our destination Ohiya Station around 10:45 leaving us enough time to enjoy rotti and plain tea from the nearby boutique.

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The young hikers at Ohiya Station

The young hikers at Ohiya Station

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The young hikers at Ohiya Station

The young hikers at Ohiya Station

The Train from Badulla reached Ohiya around 11:05 and was packed with holiday-makers.

We enjoyed the journey back to Ambewela on the footboard of the train. We all felt the tunnels were much longer when we pass them in the train than when we walked through them – maybe we were faster than the tran! By 11:30 we were back at Ambewel Station ending our first train hike successfully. The kids were so excited and we promised them a longer hike next time – may be from Ohiya to Idalgashinna.

We walked the one km back to the bungalow and by 12 the hikers were relaxing at the bungalow, but the youngsters who went to Hortain Plains were yet to come.

The little ones with the grandmas too have enjoyed their time at Hortain Planins and they have walked up to Chimney Pool and come back. They reached the bungalow past one.

We all enjoyed Saman’s lunch and rested for a while as we all deserved it

The evening was spent at Kande Ela (Meepilimana Lake) just a few kilometers towards Nuwara Eliya. The little ones with the two grandmas went by the car and the rest got into a bus coming from Pattipola. We inquired the driver when the last bus from Nuwara Eliya to Pattipola would be and we were told that it leaves Nuwara Eliya at 6.00 and pass Kande Ela around 6.30. We made a mental note to catch it for our journey back home.

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Sun going down at Kande Ela

Sun going down at Kande Ela

It was disappointing to note that the gate of the “Kande Ela Educational Park” run by the Forest Department was locked and the buildings looked neglected. Wonder whether it is closed for good. It was a stopover for many on the way to Worlds End and the nature trail was educational as well as interesting.

We enjoyed a boat ride in the lake and as dusk was setting in we left Kande Ela. The little ones went in the car and we started walking hoping the last bus to Pattipola would come at any moment. We walked nearly 3 kms but there was no sign of the bus and the car had to do another trip to pick the rest of the crowd. So those who did the rail hike in the morning and did this walk did more than 10kms on foot for the day!

Around 7:30 in the night we reached the bungalow and heard the bus passing a few minutes later. We all were tired after a long day and went early to bed after enjoying another delicious meal prepared by Saman.

Day 3

Early next morning we noticed that the weather has changed slightly and there was a slight drizzle. Saman said it is called “Babar Pinna”- the kind of spraying you get in a saloon! I couldn’t agree more. But soon after the sun came out shining bright and we were relieved that our last day would not be spoilt by the rain.

After a healthy b’fast we went to see the Spray Dried Milk Powder Factory close by. You have to get prior approval from Highland Head Office Colombo and the factory functions on week days only. As it was a Monday we could see the factory but the procedure took quite some time.

We spent quite some time in the factory learning how milk power is made out of liquid milk – quite a hot topic these days – and also viewed the packing plant as well. It was good educational stuff for the kids.

We were to leave for Nuwara Eliya thereafter and the plan was to catch the 10:30 bus from Pattipola to Nuwara Eliya via Rendapola. We were thinking of visiting Hakgala Gardens if time permits as the bus passes the Gardens. We were waiting for the bus for quite some time when we heard that there is a political meeting at Nuwara Eliya and all CTB buses have been sent there. At the same time we saw the train from Badulla going towards Ambewela station and were sorry that we didn’t think of catching it as it would take us to Nanu Oya. But luck was in our way. Our party that eft by car called to say that the train will be at the station for some time until the goods train passes. We had to do a marathon along the rail track to catch the train just in time. We went to Nanu Oya by the train and then took a bus to Nuwara Eliya. Though it was a “Parangiya Kotte Giya Wage” route we all enjoyed the additional train journey.

At Nuwara Eliya we went to Gregory Park and it was packed with those who came to the political rally held in the morning. At the park the kids did what they love most – cycling along the track enjoying the cool breeze.

After enjoying the Gregory Park for quite some time we all were hungry and had lunch at the park making use of the tables and benches made out of used sleepers. We had brought lunch pkts from home and we all enjoyed our outdoor lunch.

After lunch one party of the group left for Kandy by car and we spent some time in the town and walked to the main bus stand. There was a bus leaving for Pattipola at 4:30 and the last bus was at 6:00. We decided to go in the 4:30 bus because of previous day’s experience with the last bus.

The bus took almost one hour to reach Ambewela and we got off near our bungalow by 5:30. We had a refreshing cup of coffee and relaxed for a while as we had to catch the night mail train to Colombo. Before dinner we walked along the road leading to the factory in the moonlight enjoying the cool Ambewela whether for the last time.

We had our dinner prepared by Saman and bid good bye to him around 9:00 as the train was scheduled at 9:45. We sent the little ones and grandma’s in a tuk-tuk to the station and enjoyed the one km walk in moonlight. As it was the day before poya the moon was out in full and we hardly needed a torch.

This time the train got late and we were made to wait till 10:45 pm freezing at the Ambewela Station.

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Freezing at Ambewela station

Freezing at Ambewela station

We had reserved seats in the sleeper, but could hardly sleep as the ill-tempered guard was shouting at passengers who tried to get in at each station.

The train was scheduled to reach Colombo at 5:15 but it was past 6:30 when it reached Fort.

As we came back by the night mail train we had the Poya day to rest. We all were satisfied with our successful train journey this year and promised ourselves another train trip soon, of course along with a longer rail hike!

Thanks for reading!

 

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