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Sallitivu coral island – Vakare

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days Two
Crew Three (Amila, Nalinda & myself)
Accommodation Beach
Transport Pajero
Activities Culture, Beach life, Exploring islands, photography
Weather Mixed weather
Route D1 Monaragala -> Bibile -> Padiyathalawa -> Chenkalady -> Valachchena -> Vakare ->  SallitivuD2  Vakare -> Chenkalady -> Batticaloa -> Mantheevu -> Kalmune -> Ampara -> Bibile -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take lot of water as required
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • To reach Sallitivu you need to reach Panichchankerni of Vakarai and go towards the beach
  • You need permission from the army though this island does not belong to anyone
  • Knowing tamil is an added advantage
  • There are two Coral reefs around Sallitivu island and Kayankerni
  • To reach Mantheevu you need to get to Vavunatheevu of Batticaloa and speak to the navy officers at the end of the bridge who would contact you with the guy who does a boat service to the Leprosy island
  • There are few leprosy patients in the island please respect their privacy and don’t take huge groups to this place

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** The forcer’s guys who helped us

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map around Vakare - click to enlarge

Map around Vakare – click to enlarge

Map of Mantheevu- click to enlarge

Map of Mantheevu- click to enlarge

Arial view of Sallitivu(taken from www.anilana.com )

Arial view of Sallitivu(taken from www.anilana.com )

Attractions

  • Sallitivu coral island – Vakare
  • Mantheevu Leper Asylum – Batticaloa

Ah I was just back after a long awaited visit to Trinco and was scanning through Google earth in and around Trinco area when I suddenly noticed an island close to Vakare and immediately I fell in love with it. The desire was so much that I decided to visit it during the coming weekend and Amila & Nalinda agreed on that idea. Our plan was to camp on this island but after some inquiries we got to know that things weren’t easy as we thought. This island is been controlled by the Army and there are some ownership issues of this. Currently according to the law no one owns this island and anyone could visit it but there are some issues. Currently only foreigners do visit this island (because they can’t argue with them and stop the foreigners but civil people are denied their right to visit this island). My personal opinion is that this island should be taken over by the DWC since there is a coral reef around it just like Pigeon Island. Somehow after soughting out the permission issue we decided to go ahead.

Next day when we left Bibile it was around 1pm and Amila joined us at Valachchena. At around 4pm we reached Sallitivu beach and the first sight of it was a big wow. There were no waves at all and the bay of Vakare was one of those beaches I would revisit. Initially we were disappointed with not been able to camp on the island but later we were pleased with how things turned out. As you can see in the Google image the island is connected to the main land with a sand strip but since it was still the high tide season the sand strip was completely missing. We were said that the water level was over the waist height and indeed it was. We were up to the challenge and we decided to pay a visit. The crossing was a unique experience which we had never experienced of. We were been pushed over by waves from both sides and our waste region started aching while crossing. When we set foot on the island we were so relieved.

It was a coral island and the shore of the island was covered up by piled up dead corals creating a unique landscape. The whole walk around the island was close to 750m and walking on dead coral made it bit difficult and out of all of us Amila suffered a lot because he didn’t bring his slippers. And finally he gave up and made a pair of slippers out of some washed off debris. In this mini island there was a small lake with plenty of bird life. We were also told that there are some Saw scaled vipers on this island. We were happy that how things turned out because camping on this was not possible at all considering the above facts (no sandy shore even). After getting back to the mainland we had a long dip in the bay of Vakare. For me this is one of the most peaceful and calm beaches in SL. That night was spent watching millions of hermit crabs running around and observing oysters digging holes.

Google earth image

Google earth image – click to enlarge

first sight of the island

first sight of the island

when the tied is low there is a sand strip connecting the main land

when the tied is low there is a sand strip connecting the main land

Sallitivu island

Sallitivu island

Army resort on the beach

Army resort on the beach

halted

halted

time to cross the ocean

time to cross the ocean

we crossed like this

we crossed like this

stepped on Sallitivu

stepped on Sallitivu

Amila's smile didnt last long

Amila’s smile didnt last long

plenty of empty shells

plenty of empty shells

and more

and more

clear water

clear water

 while walking along the coast

while walking along the coast

lake

lake

Pointed point

Pointed point

growing through the coral

growing through the coral

 just washed to the shore

just washed to the shore

more to walk

more to walk

layers and layers of corals

layers and layers of corals

not easy to walk on these

not easy to walk on these

finaly he had to improvise

finally he had to improvise

common sight

common sight

a beauty

a beauty

life

life

great thick knee

great thick knee

wow

wow

One of those hermit crabs

One of those hermit crabs

time to get back

time to get back

ah we were there

ah we were there

friendly dogs

friendly dogs

here we go

here we go

so calm

so calm

where we stayed

where we stayed

the old couple who go fishing daily

the old couple who go fishing daily

he did catch some fish

he did catch some fish

 ha ha way to go

ha ha way to go

Next day morning was a gloomy one and it indeed sabotaged a beautiful sun rise. After revisiting the island and thanking the army guys at the resort we took off towards Kayankerni. Amila and Nalinda insisted on visiting the Kayankerni ancient bridge across the lagoon which I had visited one week back. While I stayed back they got on to a one man boat and headed towards the bridge with smiles on their faces. In few minutes with a big splash they were in the lagoon trying to salvage their electronic equipment. Fortunately the water level was only up to their waist. They did see the bridge but did not photograph it. And I been the lucky guy was been accused for their miss happening ha ha ha..

gloomy morning

gloomy morning

mosquitos forced us to sleep here

mosquito’s forced us to sleep here

old couple with their catch

old couple with their catch

sun rise over Sallitivu

sun rise over Sallitivu

running away

running away

dead shells

dead shells

ah beach dogs

ah beach dogs

returning back

returning back

here they come

here they come

with some help

with some help

while revisiting the island

while revisiting the island

beautiful isnt it

beautiful isnt it

 it was a live urchin

it was a live urchin

flowers on an island

flowers on an island

 fishing boat which crashed on to the coral reef

fishing boat which crashed on to the coral reef

nice

nice

calm shore

calm shore

lonely island

lonely island

forest cover

forest cover

not many tall trees

not many tall trees

the lake

the lake

some mangrover

some mangroves

a place to camp

a place to camp

pointed point

pointed point

difficult to have a dip

difficult to have a dip

sea weed

sea weed

crabs

crabs

and more

and more

one last shot

one last shot

tamed guy

tamed guy

used over generations

used over generations

creative people

creative people

smiling faces

smiling faces

and then smiles went away

and then smiles went away

his face

his face

drying purse contents

drying purse contents

Though we decided to cut short the trip later we decided to go ahead and visit the Leprosy Island at Batticaloa. We reached Batticaloa and took off towards Vavunatheevu. Just before the long bridge across the lagoon there was a Navy check point and the marines who were there helped us by calling the boatman of the hospital. After 15 minutes the boatman arrived and took us towards the Leprosy Island. Nalinda and I been doctors we were somewhat curious about this island hospital which was once an asylum to Leprosy patients in SL. This was initially declared and opened in the early 19 hundreds with five hundred patients. It had been functioned as a mini town in the past. There were a police post, post office, kovil, temple, church and many other buildings. Some patients even had individual two roomed cabins. Except two wards few minor staff quarters and the main Admin building rest is been sacrificed to the forest. There were 3 friendly patients living their life within this containment. We felt sorry for them because they haven’t seen anything in this world other than the island and Batticaloa town for many years despite been disease free. The unwanted social stigmata around some disease like Leprosy and Tuberculosis is so unacceptable. Currently there are few minor staff guys and a nurse to care to them and they are taken to Batticaloa teaching hospital monthly for clinics (And when ill). This island has its own stories, if one is interested in listening to them I recommend the boat guy who has been here since 1981. My kind request is please don’t go here with big groups since this is a hospital and respect the patients’ rights. The visit to the Leprosy island of Mantheevu was indeed a shocker but we were happy that we did visit it (For detailed information on Mantheevu click this). From Batticaloa we took the beautiful route through Samanthure and reached Amapara where we had lunch. From there onwards we took the Nilgala road towards Bibile where we dropped Nalinda and ended our journey at Monaragala where Amila took a Jaffna bound bus. This was indeed a relaxing journey to our tired soles and as usual it was something out of ordinary.

tasting Palmyra

tasting Palmyra

Mantheevu Leprosy island

Mantheevu Leprosy island

here we go

here we go

closing on

closing on

belongs to the line ministry

belongs to the line ministry

 this was once a road

this was once a road

taken from the link given in resources section - click to enlarge

taken from the link given in resources section – click to enlarge

with its catch

with its catch

old church

old church

post office

post office

current wards

current wards

one patient could be seen at the backdrop

one patient could be seen at the backdrop

Spoon bills

Spoon bills

black headed ibis nesting

black headed ibis nesting

Laundry house

Laundry house

cabins for patients

cabins for patients

 care

care

Admin building

Admin building

used for laundry

used for laundry

hanging beauties

hanging beauties

once these were in good condition

once these were in good condition

upstairs

upstairs

windows

windows

 more bird life

more bird life

admin building side view

admin building side view

returning back

returning back

Paddyfields at Samanthure

Paddyfields at Samanthure

fed by gal oya

fed by gal oya


Our Heritage & the Top of the Kingdom of Tanks – Res Vehera & Ritigala…

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Year and Month 1-2 Apr 2015
Number of Days 2
Crew Only Me
Accommodation Daya’s Place, Keeriyagaswewa.
Transport By Train, Bus, Tuk-Tuk and on Foot
Activities Archaeology, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent.
Route Day 01

Nugegoda->Colombo Fort->Aukana->Res Vehera->Kekirawa>Keeriyagaswewa.

 Day 02

 Keeriyagaswewa->Kekirawa->Colombo.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • The Udaya Devi leaves Colombo Fort at 6.05am.
    • Niroshan is a very good tuk-tuk driver at Aukana – 0774-676918.
    • You’ll need permission to enter the image houses of Res Vehera. Ask for Ukku Banda mama who has the keys.
    • Daya (071-119138 or 072-9740158) is a very good person and helpful. Call him beforehand if you plan to stay overnight or need any guidance.
    • You need permission to go beyond the Archeological Site.
    • No permit or ticket needs to visit the Archeological Site and remains. I wish they’d charge some money.
    • Elephants roam around the area so walking along the roads in and around Ritigala when dark or even in the evenings is not recommended.
    • Check my Previous Report for more details.
    • Don’t disturb the tranquility of the forest and archeological site.
    • Help protect the Mother Nature.
    • Check the Video Documentary here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya everyone, hope you are having a good time especially during and after the New Year. Well, I’m gonna tell you a story that happened two weeks before the new year in and around the Kingdom of Tanks or if you prefer “Wevu Bendi Rajyaya”. I’m sure you can remember the last time I was there hovering around Aukana & Ritigala amid heavy rains. It was my first serious visit to the North Central which turned out to be a great success and paved way for more future visits.

Unfortunately the heavy showers late last year had caused heavy flooding in A’Pura and Polonnaruwa destroying many acres of farmlands. Most of the farmers could only watch the heartless flow of water reducing their sweat, tears and blood into nothing but mud and uprooted plants that were way beyond their worth. All of their exhausting work was in vain and even the government did very little to compensate for those people. Those officials were far more interested in the presidential election than the fate of these innocent farmers without whose dedication, we’d have to starve.

The villages around Ritigala where my host Dayararathna lives were not exempted from the natural disaster and his paddy fields too were washed away making the lives a whole lot tougher. They didn’t get disheartened by the floods or the ignorant behavior by the relevant authorities but started to plough once again as soon as the rains eased. They were in the harvesting stage when I called him late March asking about the weather. The weather was back to normal and I decided to begin where I left last time. As we had just finished a grand tour in Knuckles and another of my Rail Hikes, I was without a partner for a journey so soon. I had a 4-day break with nothing to do. Knowing it’d only make things awkward for my family to find me home doing nothing wasn’t a sensible thing. They’d probably get the notion that I’d been given the sack. So I didn’t wanna create so much anxiety. Remembering that even last time I went on my own, I  decided to do the same once again just for the hell of it.

Last time I managed to squeeze Aukana, one of the greatest architectural marvels in the whole world, into my itinerary followed by the archeological remains of Ritigala and one of its seven peaks, Una Kanda. In fact I visited the Aukana Buddha amid heavy rains with a borrowed and battered raincoat from my tuk-tuk driver, Niroshan. So I called him and got him to drive me to the other statue that is located about 16km from Aukana, the Res Vehera. Then I called Daya just to let him know my plans and fixed the accommodation and the transport.

So with so much hopes under one arm and a light overnight bag in the other I set off to meet another sexy lady on the dawn of April Fools’ Day. A quick look at the FB showed that two of my friends had been unlucky enough to have been born on this day. I arrived at Fort station just after 5am and went into find the station was bustling with many people, mainly tourists despite this being a Tuesday.  Free Wi-Fi was introduced in fort station and few other places the day before and sure enough, everyone was looking at their phones checking this and that taking the full use.

I checked the phone too and found many portals but when tried to use, realized that you gotta register and get the password. So no free internet for me yet and I just spent the time munching on an egg bun that tasted like moulded cardboard and a roll that had probably been fried at least once before. That is the meals served by the station canteen and when I asked for bottle of water, one of them offered a bottle-shaped ice cube. The bugger must’ve thought I wanted to eat water rather than drink it.

Cursing under the breath for the shoddy canteen I occupied one of the chairs and looked on. The sexy girl I was waiting for said she would come before 6am. The KKS express train was waiting at No. 3 platform gleaming in sky blue. Around 5.30am, Podi Menike came in and many people squeezed in. Couple of night mails arrived disgorging sleep deprived passengers who walked as if under sedation. Still no sign of this girl. I was getting impatient and kept looking for a glimpse of her. Around 5.50am, she came with her usual charm as if nothing can make her quicken her pace. When I got up to go say hi, so did many others. Apparently there had been many others waiting for her. That is Udaya Devi for you.

Finding a seat was like musical chairs. There were so many empty ones and everyone kept hopping one to the other until they realized all the seats were alike. At the chime of 6.05am, she pulled out of the station and carried on towards the other end of the country, Batticaloa.

Day 01

We swayed with her getting in and out of sleep while the sun rose high above the houses and then coconut trees. I always enjoy the train journeys except the inevitable delays. Just that morning I saw a cartoon shared on FB showing a passenger sitting at a station with two notices overhead. One showed Wi-Fi with a check in front while the other showed Trains with a cross next to it. Good one to start the day after the horrible fort station canteen. We arrived at Veyangoda, the most notoriously reputed place for train delays. It’s always something or the other. Today was no exception and we found Podi Menike still parked and waiting when the speaker informed there’s only one track operation just ahead close to Pallewela but assured we’d leave in a very short time. I cursed Da Vinci for his findings on relativity coz the very short time of railway officials at Veyangoda ran past 30 mins before we were given the green light. Even the last time we got held up more than 10 mins and today this.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Res Vehera aka Sasseruwa, Meegalewa.
  2. Keeriyagaswewa Village and the Tank.
  3. Ancient Ruins, Ritigala.
  4. Kodi Gala aka Kodi Kanda, Ritigala.

We arrived at Maho and waited for Udaya Devi to go refresh herself before continuing her journey. She always seems to take very long, well what more can you expect from a beautiful girl like her. She turned this way and that way before deciding to continue. There was a bitter taste in my mouth after that awful breakfast, if you can that godforsaken junk breakfast. Thankfully there came an old mum selling guava. Couple of them (going Rs. 10/- each, a steal) went down with plenty of chillie and salt giving a better feeling. What a contrast?

Just reached Maho

Just reached Maho

13-carriage train

13-carriage train

A copy of the good old Canadian one by the Indians

A copy of the good old Canadian one by the Indians

A key point in SL Railways

A key point in SL Railways

There comes her to be attached on the other side

There comes her to be attached on the other side

One of the first 12 engines to be donated, Point Pedro

One of the first 12 engines to be donated, Point Pedro

Just got coupled

Just got coupled

The delays made sure I arrived 45mins late at Aukana where Niroshan was waiting for me. We set off immediately and chatting about on the way.

Res Vehera

We took a short cut that met Galnewa Road around half way. Then Niroshan took some more short cuts which looked all alike to me until we came to Res Vehera. There were one or two signs to give directions. The road to the Res Vehera, especially the last 6km was terrible and had seen no sign of tar or concrete. It was a typical gravel road with plenty of pot holes and washed out sections. Niroshan said despite the popularity and the importance, no politician or government body had bothered to make this road properly.

Apparently hundreds and thousands of people both local and foreign visit this marvel throughout the year yet nothing has been done about this road. So if you are one of the people who could do something about this, please try and do whatever you can to make this a better one. Before we go any further, lemme give you the story behind this wonderful creation.

The Legend

“King Devanampiyatissa had planted a Bo tree in the premises in 237 BE (around 307 BC) (Buddhist Era). The rocky Buddha statue that is 42ft 4in in height is believed to have been carved by King Mahasen sometime in 276-303 AD. King Walagamba (89-77 BC or 104 BC) had later added two cave temples. There are 99 caves with drip edges where some 365 Arhath Monks had stayed. During Kandyan Era, the last Sinhala King, Weera Parakrama Narendrasinghe had renovated the temple and the complex. The wall paintings depict the stories from the Jathaka Book such as Kakkata, Dahamsonda & Manichora. Further there’s an 11.07m long sleeping Buddha statue that is the only one of its kind in the whole world. The statue had been moulded using clay and then covered with a real cotton robe before completing the statue with colors and design.”

We arrived at the temple closer to noon. There is a board at the outside the main entrance announcing the forest around it Kahalla Pallekelle Sanctuary, a place I’d not heard before. What’s more there’s an electric fence erected to keep the elephants inside the sanctuary and protect the farmlands just outside it. I wonder how practical it is to tempt them with all those crops and hoping to keep them behind an electric fence. There was a beautiful white Stupa to the side of the temple at the edge of the small tank. The tank is about half a football ground in size. There is a large rock towering at the background at the middle of which is carved the magnificent Buddha statue. There’s a plight of stairs to it. You can see the remains of caves all around and the two cave image houses are located to the left of the stairs and below the statue. There are two separate entrances to them.

We climbed the stairs and arrived at the statue and it took my breath away. Lemme be honest and tell you that it takes a lot to take my breath away and make me speechless coz I’ve seen a quite a lot of things. This was as good as the Aukana Buddha even though it looked as if half finished. The reason being the Aukana Buddha had been carved out of the rock making it look like he’s not attached to the rock in anyway. Unlike the Aukana Buddha, Res Vehera statue is still attached to the rock by a strip of rock in the back. However, the Res Vehera Buddha is taller than the Aukana Buddha. Res Vehera is 42ft 4in whereas Aukana Buddha is 38ft 10in including the Siraspatha (the symbol on the top of the head). However we mistake the heights due to the pedestal of the Aukana Buddha which increases the height dramatically to 42ft. Still Res Vehera Buddha is taller by good 4in.

I simply looked at this gorgeous creation by our ancestors. Just imagine building something in this caliber more than 2100 years ago. What kinda modern civilization we must have had then. A lot better than our current sad situation, I’m sure. The statue was in the middle of the huge flat rocky wall towering above us and looking as serenely as ever. There were kind of holes on the rocky wall just above the statue and I’m just wondering if it’s a sign of a partial roof built to protect the statue. I can go on and on describing the extraordinary statue but it’d be a lot easier to just let you look at the pictures. I’m speechless to say any further.

We spent about 20 mins admiring the statue and came down halfway the stairs and turned to the right where the ancient Bo tree is. There was a group of old ladies sweeping and cleaning the area. Instead of a typical wall around the Bo tree, there were a couple of layers of blocks of rock placed on top one another securing it. We walked around it to the rocky cave image houses. The doors were closed as in many temples nowadays, especially the ancient ones. We saw the stone scriptures on the rock above the roof of the cave and it looked in better shape and clearly legible. Unfortunately there was no way to figure out what it says. I wish there was a board with the translation placed at places like these for the travelers’ benefit. Feeling disappointed not being able to go in and see the paintings (I love the ancient paintings on walls, rocks and wooden planks) we circled the caves and got back in the front courtyard of the temple. However we saw a few tiny pagoda shaped structures probably some tombs of the monks were buried from the look of them.

At Res Vehera

At Res Vehera

Beautiful Chaithya

Beautiful Chaithya

Going towards the main statue

Going towards the main statue

Remains of ancient structures

Remains of ancient structures

This is where the cave image houses are, we'll come to it later

This is where the cave image houses are, we’ll come to it later

Oh my god!

Oh my god!

Lemme tell you this. Seeing this on a picture is nothing compared to what you see in real. A completely different feeling. So go see it for real

Lemme tell you this. Seeing this on a picture is nothing compared to what you see in real. A completely different feeling. So go see it for real

Amazing details even after many centuries

Amazing details even after many centuries

Those holes might mean a former roof over the statue

Those holes might mean a former roof over the statue

Must've looked stunning when this was built

Must’ve looked stunning when this was built

The feet

The feet

The Robe looks real enough, not a sign of rock

The Robe looks real enough, not a sign of rock

View from the image below

View from the image below

Very old Bo Tree with plenty of history behind it

Very old Bo Tree with plenty of history behind it

The rocky inscription at the image house

The rocky inscription at the image house

Closer

Closer

Surrounding rocks

Surrounding rocks

The path to the other image house

The path to the other image house

Signs of caves

Signs of caves

Where the sleeping Buddha is located

Where the sleeping Buddha is located

The steps but the door was locked

The steps but the door was locked

Where the monks are buried

Where the monks are buried

Heart breaking thing to go without seeing the image houses

Heart breaking thing to go without seeing the image houses

Niroshan came to my rescue and suggested we go talk to the chief monk and ask for permission to enter the image houses. He said that he knew the monk so we went to the living quarters. One of the old people who stay at the temple said the monk was taking a nap so we decided not to bother him. However one of the ladies asked us to go talk to Ukku Banda mama who has the keys to them. Fortunately he appeared out of nowhere and and kindly offered to show the place. It was one of the best things that happened in my life. You will know why when you see the pictures and the Documentary.

He opened the first one which is the smallest out of the two. It has a sitting Buddha with a couple of other statues. The walls are painted with beautiful pictures including the uneven rocky roof. How on earth they managed to paint such subtle paintings inside those dark caves even without the help of electricity. They must have been super humans, definitely not ordinary folks. It’s a pity that most of these image houses are now wired without giving much consideration for the destruction caused by them. Sadly it is the same situation in almost all of the places.

We finished the work there and went around to the other one, the largest cave that holds the 11m statue, the one and only in the world. As soon as I entered after Ukku Banda mama what I so sent me speechless for the second time of the day. There to the right of the cave was this gigantic statue looking very much real. Ukku Banda mama showed me around. There were many statues inside the cave but nothing as glamorous as this sleeping Buddha. Unlike many other places, you can walk around the statue the full circle being able to see him all around.

We went to the back of the statue where Ukku Banda mama pointed to a place which has been peeled off the paint showing off the cotton wool of the robe. Thanks to the ignorant and stupid travelers the temple has had to erect a chain fence to protect the statue being damaged. According to Ukku Banda mama, the buggers try to pull out the cotton strings which are prominent on the waves of the robe and take them as souvenirs. The stupid devils don’t understand the gravity of it. No wonder these places are kept under lock and key from the maniacs who stop at nothing to do some damage.

To the further corner of the statue is a square shaped hole where it’s believed that a corbra stayed protecting the statue. I wish it would still stay there to chase the stupid devils away coz now is the time that the statue is under great threat. We came out of the other side to find a bed to the side near the wall. “A bed? Inside an image house?” I’m sure you’re wondering out loud. So did I when I saw it. Ukku Banda mama offered the solution before I had the time to read the notice on it. This was offered to the temple by a carpenter as a gesture of his religious beliefs and now it stays here. Ukku Banda mama says it’s probably a couple of hundred years old but nothing to back his claim unless they do a carbon dating. The weavings on the bed had been pulled out and broken taking away as souvenirs by the same idiotic people. It’s a real shame and if you’re guilty of crimes like these, be ashamed and make a vow not to do it ever again. I guess you can remember how people used to pull out the silver thread from the old 500-rupee note. Do pull out anything else if you must but invaluable pieces of our heritage. We must protect these which have been protected and passed onto us by our ancestors and make sure our future generations get to see them as well. Our current situation might be worse than a cesspit but at least they’ll know we had the best civilization ever, incomparable even to the best of the today’s standards.

After the inevitable documentary, I left Ukku Banda mama thanking him profusely and praising him for his dedication to protect this place. Niroshan had been to soothe the nerves of the monk who had got up and kept wondering who I was. All the treasure hunting has left all the monks live in fear not only for the ancient things but also for their lives. We saw a CTB bus coming to the temple carrying the board Kumbukkadawala-Galgamuwa via Res Vehera. It’ll probably give you a clue of the public transport but don’t think it’s available that often. I highly recommend Niroshan if you need a reliable and friendly fellow who is cheerful and not rob you in broad daylight. Before we go on, take a look at the mythical story about the two statues which are completely false and has no real foundation.

Image House No. 01

Got lucky

Got lucky

My savior, Ukku Banda Mama

My savior, Ukku Banda Mama

Entering the first one

Entering the first one

The locked door

The locked door

Either side

Either side

Just about to open and reveal the secrets

Just about to open and reveal the secrets

Wood carvings

Wood carvings

Wooden roof supported by rocky pillars

Wooden roof supported by rocky pillars

Some more

Some more

Entering, just look at the statues and the paintings

Entering, just look at the statues and the paintings

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

Painting on the rocky ceiling

Painting on the rocky ceiling

One of many

One of many

More paintings along the walls

More paintings along the walls

Some more

Some more

On the uneven rocky ceiling

On the uneven rocky ceiling

Main Buddha Statue

Main Buddha Statue

Image House No. 02

Here we got the chance

Here we got the chance

Solid locks

Solid locks

Just before entering, can you see the writings?

Just before entering, can you see the writings?

Near the door

Near the door

Here's the Gigantic Statue

Here’s the Gigantic Statue

Hard to get the whole statue in one frame

Hard to get the whole statue in one frame

"Siras Patha", similar to Aukana Buddha

“Siras Patha”, similar to Aukana Buddha

Another statue by the main one

Another statue by the main one

Cotton robe exposed at the back of the head

Cotton robe exposed at the back of the head

Here clear signs of it

Here clear signs of it

Can you read the note?

Can you read the note?

This is where that cobra had stayed. It needs to be there now not then

This is where that cobra had stayed. It needs to be there now not then

Can you see the torn bits? Stupid tourists are responsible for that

Can you see the torn bits? Stupid tourists are responsible for that

Hope you can read it

Hope you can read it

One of the legs

One of the legs

See the length of the statue?

See the length of the statue?

Many more

Many more

Here a couple more

Here a couple more

Paintings too

Paintings too

Time to go

Time to go

Lifeline of the villagers

Lifeline of the villagers

The Myths of Aukana Buddha and the Res Vehera Buddha…

Let me go controversial now coz there is many legends relating these two statues. So let’s get the facts straight. How about answering a few simple questions first?

  • When did they build the Res Vehere Buddha? – It’s believed this was done by King Mahasen in 276-303 AD.
  • When did they build the Aukana Buddha? – Apparently in 5th Century by King Dhathusena (which means sometime in 459-477 AD). However there are other theories as well such as it was the 6th Century and some say this was built by King Parakrambahu the Great in the 13th Century but this is the closest we can get I suppose.
  • What’s the gap between the two building dates? – Supposing they built by Mahasen and Dhathusena respectively, approximately 180-200 years. Could be more or less.

So it’s technically impossible to have built these two statues at the same time (well it’s still possible but very unlikely considering these dates). The folklores of two brothers or the teacher and the pupil building these two statues in contest seem nothing but fairy tales. I’m not saying they’re completely bogus coz we don’t seem to have the facts at hand but from what we gather they don’t seem to amount to much more than that. After all, I too am a big fan of fairy tales but it’s crucial to have the facts right. Hopefully the archeology department will be able to iron out these issues as much as possible and make sure the correct information is given to the tourists as these places (not only Aukana and Res Vehera) are visited by hundreds and thousands of tourists both local and foreigners.

Does anyone have a better theory or can anyone give us some concrete evidence please?

Kala Wewa

We got back in the tuk-tuk and returned to the bus stop at Aukana to catch a bus to Kekirawa. Having thanked Niroshan for his help, guidance and patience I got in the bus. We went along the bund of the Kala Wewa that was looking appealing. The distance hills, thick clouds, blue skies and the still water waved at me. Fortunately the driver stopped the bus on the bund and got talking to another fellow bus driver. I got the opportunity and jumped out of the bus and took a few pictures before he went away. However it was not enough for me.

As we went further up, I could see Ritigala rising majestically into the sky. I wanted to get down and walk along the bund not missing a thing but I simply couldn’t afford it. There was more to see and I was way behind the schedule. Well, just check the pictures below and tell me if you would have felt the same way.

The bus stopped

The bus stopped

And I jumped out

And I jumped out

Took this

Took this

And this

And this

Ritigala in the distance

Ritigala in the distance

Before getting back into the bus

Before getting back into the bus

I called Daya who had been waiting for me. There was a very special place to go see. It is not only very special but also very much unknown to the outside world. Even the people live in the same village so close to this are not aware of it. I’m afraid; you won’t get to read about it in this report. Now don’t groan and start complaining. As it’s really special and so valuable, I’ve decided to unveil in the next report. So if you’re reading it now, you can expect that hopefully within a week or two. So I’ll jump straight to Daya’s place where I spent the night before the big day. Remember, it was one of the best days in my life and one of the best journeys but still not better than Lakegala.

We arrived at Keeriyagaswewa when the dark was falling. One of Daya’s friends called Tissa (not the one I went to see the archeological site last time) had caught some fish in the Kaluebe tank in the next village and suggested we go pick them. He had caught them in the morning and had put them in the water attached to a string to stop them rotting. See I keep things learning every day. If you’re to preserve fish after catching them, just put them back in the water after tied to a string. However only a limited number of hours you can keep them safe, probably up to 12-18 hours. These fish strings cost around Rs. 200/- at the current rate and has 6-8 fish weighing between 1-1.5kg.

We then arrived at the house and while Daya’s wife was busy cooking,  I took a bath. Most of the paddy fields have been re-ploughed and sowed after the floods and harvested too. However there were still many fields with ripening paddy still to be harvested. I saw many tree houses where the farmers kept watch at night on their paddy fields from the elephants. The jumbos present another threat to their crops as they keep coming to destroy them. Well this is a problem in most of the country from south to the north where quickly vanishing forests make the jumbos homeless forcing them to come to the villages to find food. Can’t say I blame the poor fellows. When I’m writing this, it shows on news that many jumbos coming to the garbage dumping ground in Hingurakgoda closer to the Kaudulla National Park. There is even a tusker among them. They will either die of food poisoning or get killed by some wicked people, especially the poor tusker. Nobody seems to do anything about it and the jumbos keep chasing the garbage trucks until they dump the loads.

Despite the grievances of the farmers I felt elated at the prospect of seeing some elephants in the night. I love watching the jumbos. Even last time I was without luck and was hopeful having seen the tree houses. Daya, Chandi (another of his friends) and I went for a walk along the road with torches that were turned off looking for the elephants. On the way we talked to a couple of people staying up the tree houses keeping a close vigil. We heard couple of elephant crackers going off but most of the time farmers just light them even before seeing the elephants, probably just to give a warning if they are nearby. All of a sudden we heard the roar of them in the tank most likely having a late bath. We couldn’t get towards the tank so returned home for a sumptuous meal with tank fish.

After the meal, we stayed up for another hour or so hoping to see a jumbo but my luck was not in this time either. So we went to sleep asking to be woken if any jumbo came in the night. No jumbo appeared as if sensing my arrival. They had come regularly over the past days but today was taking a break. Chandi joked saying I should come and stay until the harvesting stage so that jumbos will stay away. I went into a dreamless sleep hoping for clear weather the following day. Now you too get some rest coz tomorrow there’s plenty to do.

Day 02

I woke up as the first rays of the morning falling on the trees and the gravel roads. I was hoping for some mist but none to be had. Fortunately the unbearable heat was not there in the night and I slept like a baby. The typical noises of the forest could be heard. There were birds chirping, wind rustling the leaves, peacocks making their unpleasant deep noises and bees humming on their way to juicy flowers. I would have loved to stay like that listening to all this but there was plenty to do with very little time. Time seems to fly when I go sightseeing. I reluctantly flexed my muscles and commanded the limbs to start cracking.

Daya’s son and daughter had already got up and were ready to go to school. Unfortunately he still hasn’t got electricity in his house and even the house is barely enough for them to live. You know what I’m hinting at, don’t you? It’d be a real noble thing to help him complete the house and obtain electricity. So if you come across any organization that is looking for some charity work, they can’t go wrong with helping them. It’d be a very worthy cause.

I got up and did the usual chores while the sun climbed up the Ritigala. We sent a message to Tissa (my partner in the last journey) to come in the morning for the day’s schedule. Till then I had sometime to explore the surrounding areas. Grabbing the opportunity, I walked along the gravel road taking in the scenery breathing the fresh air coming from Ritigala kissing the paddy fields and the tanks on the way. Some fields had already been harvested while some still were not ready. The harvested fields looked brownish yellow with dried up clay sticking to the roots. Others had the lush green in many shades. Bunches of grains were bending towards the earth feeling the weight of the ripening seeds. Water gurgled through the tiny gaps making bubbles in places. There was a motorbike left at the base of a tree house. Nevertheless the house was empty. The farmers had apparently gone home after a sleepless night.

The Ritigala mountain range looked absolutely stunning against a blue and white sky. The light green paddy fields in the foreground added the flavor while the dark green on the mountain itself blended into the setting. It wasn’t all, there were a few exposed rocky sections in the mountain giving charcoal grey, black and some shades of the peach to the picture. What more can I say? It’s really pleasing to the eye and you would never get enough of looking at this beauty. Well, I was ready to get to the highest point that day but don’t you worry coz I had all the means to achieve that. So don’t get anxious and let’s go experience what it is like to be on the top of the kingdom of tanks. But before we go, I gotta go get some breakfast in me. I heard Daya’s wife saying there was tank fish left from the last night. Now don’t be jealous and go have your meals and enjoy the pictures of my morning stroll.

Gosh, what a breakfast! All I need is a mat under the shade of the tamarind tree to digest the meal. Unfortunately I ain’t got that luxury coz I can hear you complaining. But we’re not going up yet. Lolz, I’d have loved to see your face after the last sentence. You think I’d been ranting about it all this time just for the hell of it, don’t you? Please bear with me for a little while longer and I promise you won’t be disappointed. Would you like to go see the Keeriyagaswewa tank full of water? Last time it was nearly empty and I wanted to go see the transformation after the rains. So Daya and I took the tuk-tuk and went for a drive. After a few minutes we arrived at the foot of the bund and parked the vehicle.

The area was all covered with paddy fields and on almost every tree which is there in the middle of them had a tree house for the farmers to keep watch. We climbed up to see the tank and gosh, what a difference. It was full to the brim with beautiful white lotuses rising from the water towards the sun while the leaves spread out around them on the surface. Not only that, above the water surface which was making tiny waves in the wind, Ritigala looked beautiful than ever. This was a dream of every photographer, painter and film director. I just couldn’t drag myself away despite numerous warnings by Daya about getting late. Finally I gave in and we got back in the tuk-tuk coz my destiny was calling me.

Good morning

Good morning

Left most part

Left most part

My target

My target

Probably had a quarrel last night

Probably had a quarrel last night

Endless paddy fields

Endless paddy fields

Nice combination

Nice combination

"Maduruwa" bike

“Maduruwa” bike

Dusty roads

Dusty roads

Beautiful range

Beautiful range

Some harvest for the hard-working farmers

Some harvest for the hard-working farmers

Will take some time before the harvest

Will take some time before the harvest

This is nearly ready, two more weeks

This is nearly ready, two more weeks

A meeting?

A meeting?

Equal gap

Equal gap

Another watch hut

Another watch hut

See the colors bending nicely?

See the colors bending nicely?

Now the contrast

Now the contrast

Hey buddy!

Hey buddy!

Salivating, ain't it?

Salivating, ain’t it?

Kept bumping into them

Kept bumping into them

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Ferocious

Ferocious

Another one

Another one

Look at the silhouette

Look at the silhouette

At the Keeriyagaswewe Tank

At the Keeriyagaswewe Tank

A sight worth seeing again and again

A sight worth seeing again and again

Last time it was completely dry

Last time it was completely dry

Good looking

Good looking

Couple with a baby to be born soon

Couple with a baby to be born soon

Harvested paddy fields

Harvested paddy fields

Many huts all around

Many huts all around

Ok, now let's head to the dream

Ok, now let’s head to the dream

The Dream Hike

Tissa came in and we went to the archeological site some 2km away. The tree covered road was cool and it was around 9am when we arrived and started our hike after the necessary paperwork and official matters. Already there was a large group of local tourists roaming around and I was grateful for my previous visit which gave me all the freedom to take pictures without having to worry about people moving about. We went on to the target even though the journey was strenuous and tested our rather my bones and muscles. I don’t think I would ever cease to be amazed by the ingenuity of our ancestors. Especially what you would see in Ritigala. This must be categorized as one of the seven wonders. What they had built in Ritigala making that rocky mountain self-sufficient and self-reliant is beyond any imagination. I know I have already given a big chunk of my photo collection for you in the last trip but lemme give a bit more coz it’s worth seeing them again and again and again.

Well afterwards it was all about the jungle and we saw trees and plants grow in Ritigala which are unique to other environmental conditions such as Horton Plains, Sri Pada and Knuckles. That is why Ritigala was declared a Strict Nature Reserve (SNR). Only three of them exist in the country and I’ll let you find out the other two if possible. Until then without further delay I’ll let you enjoy the pictures of our laborious hike uphill. After the pictures, I’m gonna jump once again and get to the observation point little below the summit.

Ok, now we were about to get up to a place with a beautiful view. This reminded me of the Una Kanda as it too was similar to this point and gave a similar view but a little lower. I did a short documentary and we continued our way uphill. The final push brought us to a somewhat flat wooded area. There is ample room to move between the trees unlike the thick and impassable areas of Sri Pada and Knuckles. We saw a small toilet-sized cement and brick structure and a cable ran from it to a nearby pole which was a failed attempt by the officials to use it as a signal tower. The summit is a larger rock about 20ft high and closer to 50ft in diameter and a circumference of well over 100ft. Very much similar to the Saradiyel Rock or the summit of Alagalla I guess. I’m yet to visit any of those mountains. I know what you think and yeah I too feel ashamed of myself for not doing anything about it.

Archaeological office

Archaeological office

Let's make a move

Let’s make a move

Banda Wewa

Banda Wewa

Hallmark steps

Hallmark steps

First Stone Bridge

First Stone Bridge

Many ruins like this

Many ruins like this

Hundreds of Monks had walked along these paths

Hundreds of Monks had walked along these paths

Entering the footpath

Entering the footpath

Here we go

Here we go

Bed and Pillow

Bed and Pillow

Drainage lines made of stone

Drainage lines made of stone

Hidden ruins

Hidden ruins

All over the forest

All over the forest

Almost stepped on the fellow

Almost stepped on the fellow

Still not so steep

Still not so steep

Seeking the much needed sunlight

Seeking the much needed sunlight

Just look at that

Just look at that

Now the difficult terrain

Now the difficult terrain

Tough places to go past

Tough places to go past

Circling the boulders and trees

Circling the boulders and trees

It was very calm and serene inside

It was very calm and serene inside

Huge one, probably attacked by the eagles

Huge one, probably attacked by the eagles

Just look at the precision making

Just look at the precision making

Sambar is responsible for these

Sambar is responsible for these

Final stretch

Final stretch

Very tough terrain

Very tough terrain

Look at the creeper

Look at the creeper

First observation point

First observation point

Stretch into miles and miles

Stretch into miles and miles

Not edible

Not edible

Typical upcountry forest

Typical upcountry forest

"Balu Dan", a plant found in Knuckles and Sri Pada

“Balu Dan”, a plant found in Knuckles and Sri Pada

This tree is covering the rock with its roots

This tree is covering the rock with its roots

Wana Raja, again seen on Sri Pada mainly

Wana Raja, again seen on Sri Pada mainly

Skeleton bodies

Skeleton bodies

The small structure with the signal tower

The small structure with the signal tower

There it is now abandoned

There it is now abandoned

Oh, hello!

Oh, hello!

Hi cutie!

Hi cutie!

We carefully conquered the rock which is not that big a deal if it’s not wet. Arriving on the summit is an experience which will be with me forever and ever. There is a pole about 20ft high supported by rocks with a flag flying from it symbolizing the name “Kodi Kanda” or “Kodi Gala”. It gave a 360-degree view which is also a very rare thing as many summits don’t have that possibility. One major exception is the Sri Pada that gives the best 360-degree view in Sri Lanka, probably the whole world. No wonder Lord Buddha chose it to leave his sacred footprint.

Ok, let’s look around and see what we can see. Tissa is gonna help us. Here we go, there’s Habarana side over the extreme left (when looking at the range from Keeriyagaswewa) end of the range. Moving to the right now, there’s Kala Wewa in the distance. Then we’ll follow the Galenbindunuwewa-Kahatagasdigiliya road. Towards the right end of the range is the Anuradhapura area. There’s Ruwanweli Maha Seya if we’re not mistaken. To the left of her is Thuparamaya and to the right some way away is Mihintale. Ok then let’s cross the right edge of the range. There is Hurulu Wewa in the distance and closer to the mountain is Ganewelpola town. About just below us is Keeriyagaswewa tank and the wildlife office. We could see the road running from there to the base of the mountain. Then going further is Minneriya and Kaudulla.

Yeah you can see all that and much more. The sun took pity on his children and hid behind a cloud giving us the much needed shade. We spent closer to three quarters of an hour enjoying the scenery, savoring the achievement and taking dozens of pictures. Well, all good things come to an end and my journey too had to come to a conclusion. Sadly we bid farewell to this unique and beautiful lady thanking her for putting up with us. This was a dream come true and I’m gonna treasure it till the end of my life. We started our descend and made quick progress.

By 1.30pm we were on the solid ground when there was a big commotion near the office. There were a couple of busloads of school children waiting to go see the place. We were lucky to have been inside before they went in.

The final obstacle, gotta be very careful

The final obstacle, gotta be very careful

Here's the summit

Here’s the summit

Now the endless views

Now the endless views

Kala Wewa in the far

Kala Wewa in the far

Towards Habarana

Towards Habarana

Mihintale and Ruwanweliseya to the right and in the distance, don't think you can see it

Mihintale and Ruwanweliseya to the right and in the distance, don’t think you can see it

Rest of the range

Rest of the range

The other end of the top part

The other end of the top part

No wonder the North Central is called the Kingdom of Tanks

No wonder the North Central is called the Kingdom of Tanks

The lone traveler

The lone traveller

The 360-degree view

The 360-degree view

Beautiful patterns

Beautiful patterns

Well, time to go

Well, time to go

Climbing down carefully

Climbing down carefully

Passing the same obstacles

Passing the same obstacles

Oh, hi!

Oh, hi!

Hmmm?

Hmmm?

Looks like an alien

Looks like an alien

Climbing down with the help of a creeper

Climbing down with the help of a creeper

Here it is

Here it is

Plenty of creepers around

Plenty of creepers around

Origin of a water stream. This must feed many villagers on the way

Origin of a water stream. This must feed many villagers on the way

Patterns

Patterns

Back on somewhat flat area

Back on somewhat flat area

Mushy mushrooms

Mushy mushrooms

We saw it going up so did you

We saw it going up so did you

Ruins

Ruins

First thought: "Rock Python"

First thought: “Rock Python”

Could be the same fella

Could be the same fella

An ancient pond now being used to pump water to the archaeological site below

An ancient pond now being used to pump water to the archaeological site below

Here it is

Here it is

Rocky walls

Rocky walls

Split rock

Split rock

Almost finished the journey

Almost finished the journey

Inside the Library

Inside the Library

See the whole to the left?

See the hole to the left?

You saw this in the last report

You saw this in the last report

Another stone bridge

Another stone bridge

See the interlocking side railings?

See the interlocking side railings?

Endless path

Endless path

Many ruins

Many ruins

Going back

Going back

No one there

No one there

Perfectly designed

Perfectly designed

Near the Banda Wewa

Near the Banda Wewa

Ok, time to call it a day and head home

Ok, time to call it a day and head home

Having arrived at Daya’s place we sat for a quick lunch. Then bidding farewell to everyone, Daya gave me a lift to the Moragoda junction where I took a bus to Kekirawa. Fortunately there was a Colombo bus but the stretch between Dambulla and Kandy road was a pain to cross. It’s still under construction and the heavy rains made going slower than walking. Ibbagamuwa, Malsiripura and other towns nearby were under more than a foot of water. After a slow and painful could of hours we reached Kandy road then Colombo along it by 9.30pm.

Well folks, are you tired after the marathon? I’m not and gonna do another right after but not today. You can join me later, another day.

Hope you enjoyed our trip together and would love to go see the secret treasure I promised earlier. Be patient coz next report is gonna be all about it.

But, before you go, there are a few Panos for you to look at.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Until then, take care and keep traveling. This is Sri signing off for now.

Ciao…

Sri,

Seven Falls ( Eli Hatha ) And Six Wonderers

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Year and Month February 2015 ( 2,3,4 )
Number of Days Two and half days
Crew Total: 8 Persons
  • Six Wonderers ( Hi King , Stunt Prince , Silent Worrier, De Waterfall Hunter, Notorious Major & Jumbo )
  • Two Villagers as guides ( Suresh & Kadol )
Accommodation Village House and Camping in the jungle
Transport Public Transport & Motor Bikes and Three wheelers. And of course walking a lot
Activities Waterfall Hunting and walking/hiking in Peak wilderness
Weather Misty and raining time to time
Route
  • Colombo -> Avissawella ->Deraniyagala ->Uda Maliboda ->Eli Hatha
  • returned via same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • All though we use the words Eli Hatha there are more than 10 waterfalls in this stream ( Naya ganga/ Seethawak Ganga)
  • Path is there up to top of 2nd fall but there after it’s trekking through the jungle.
  • Of course you need the help of guides but do not too much rely on them as most of them don’t know the path exactly. In other words paths are disappeared due to quick growth of plants
  • There is a foot path from top of 5th fall to base of 7th fall. If you use it you’ll miss the beautiful fall no 6 along with few beautiful cascades. And guides tend to name two sectioned fall no7 as two falls ( 6th and 7th ) .That’s wrong. Therefore we hiked along the stream to see fall no 6 but with extreme care. Mind you it’s very dangerous to hike along a stream specially when it’s raining
  • This is an amazing journey but not a Fun journey. You should be physically and mentally sound to do this trail. And you should take every precaution for your safety. And Don’t attempt this in rainy season or when it’s raining
  • These seven falls are inside peak wilderness sanctuary (Sri Pada Adawiya – Hima ) .So we were careful of not consuming flesh, liquor etc. And you should be mindful about your words…..
  • Last bus from Deraniyagla to Uda Maliboda is at 5.00 p.m
  • Useful Contact ( Mr. Shanthasiri-0729930915 ) He’ll arrange Guides, Accommodation, food depending on your needs
  • At Udamaliboda /Bambaragala area the effective mobile facility was Etisalate. So try to carry a SIM of same
  • Don’t litter. Protect nature
  • I would like to thank all Lakdasun Trip reporters regarding Eli Hatha specially Sanketha’s Report
  • Due to exposure to heavy showers my camera got stuck. So Most of the photos belong to Ashan, Sanketha & Amila. Thanks a lot. This trip and the report a collective effort of all the six of us
  • Thanks Sri For his wonderful video journey
Author Harinda
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Pada Adawiya is my favourite place on earth. Knuckles also has taken a lot space in my heart. If anybody studies the statistics in my nature trips, more than 80% of them belong to these two places. I had been planning to explore Eli Hatha for more than two years. But due to various reasons I had to postpone it. My friends were at times laughing at me telling my Elihatha was suffering from “Balagiri Dosaya”. I was waiting till the right time to come with the right crew( Some times the crew was not perfect , sometimes weather was not perfect ). So this was my most wanted trip in 2015.Finnaly after contacting Mr. Shanthasiri I drafted my plan and fixed the date 2nd February . And I informed my well experienced hiking partners in advance.
Hi King ( Ashan) ‘s experience and instincts about the wild and Waterfall hunter (Sri ) ‘s never ending desire coupled with Stunt Prince ( Prince ) ‘s faithfulness ( with whom I have done most of my adventurous / dangerous journeys ) was a perfect combination for me. Notorious Major ( Amila ) ‘s talents and equipments such as ropes was added advantage. Finally arrival of silent Warrior ( Sanketha ) at the last minute was icing on cake as he had done this trial in 2012 . If you wonder “who is Jumbo ? “ and it’s me as my friend’s told me that they had the experience of loitering in peak wilderness with a “Kuru Elephant” Mind you I didn’t encourage any of my office mates or even Prince’s brother who were willing to join. Because in these type of adventurous journeys the margin of error should be around Zero.
We all left homes around 12.00 p.m. on 2nd February though our transport methods were different due to our various other commitments specially related to work. Sri and Prince were coming from Prince’s bike and me and Sanketha met at Pannipitiya and came to Avissawella by bus and waited till Ashan’s arrival. At Avisawella we purchased majority of items. After reaching Deraniyagala I was able to stop the Udamaliboda bus for another 15 minutes as we were desperate in picking our late comer Amila.(The driver was very helpful person ) So we four ( Me, Ashan, Sanketha and Amila ) met Prince and Sri at Udamaliboda tea factory ( where the bus stops ) around 6.00p.m.
Mr. Sahnthasiri came to us in his tuk-tuk with a short notice and we hired another three wheeler and went towards Elihatha (Bambaragala) area. Road conditions were better than 2013. After travelling for nearly 3 kms we stopped at our resting place which is an incomplete, two apartment building belongs to Santhasiri. There, Sahnthasiri introduced our guide ( Suresh ). After keeping our baggage there we went to shanthesiri’ home to take dinner which was 30 min uphill journey. On the way we enjoyed the cool dip at a stream by washing out all the tiredness. Shanthersiri’s wife and parents welcomed us and served with delicious dinner. We requested shanthasiri to come to our resting place at sharp 5.30 a.m ( next day ) with all our lunch and breakfast packed separately. The task was 14 packets. But they happily obliged. (My plan was to minimize the time taken for cooking in the jungle also to minimize weight)Then we said good bye to Sahanthasiri and family and came to the resting place with our guide. He managed to bring some Paduru and we laid them in one room by keeping or bags in the other. After having a brief chat about following day journey we all went to sleep preparing our inner minds for next day adventure.

It was getting dark when we reached our resting place  (Photo Amila)

It was getting dark when we reached our resting place (Photo Amila)

Our resting place was here (main power plant is 2-3 km from this point ) (Photo Amila)

Our resting place was here (main power plant is 2-3 km from this point ) (Photo Amila)

On the way to Santhasiri’s House. We were bathing and little Sri was peeping (Photo Amila)

On the way to Santhasiri’s House. We were bathing and little Sri was peeping (Photo Amila)

Removing leeches (Photo Amila)

Removing leeches (Photo Amila)

Came to our resting place after dinner …. two rooms ….there is a tap line closer ….also a anicut few meters down  ( Photo Amila )

Came to our resting place after dinner …. two rooms ….there is a tap line closer ….also a anicut few meters down
( Photo Amila )

Full moon (Moon walkers ) (Photo Amila)

Full moon (Moon walkers ) (Photo Amila)

Ashan’s Magic

Ashan’s Magic

We started our journey around 6.30 a.m. after doing some rituals at the nearby Kovil. Our guide Suresh accompanied another person called “Kadol “and we didn’t interfere on that. We had to walk for another 2-3 kms along the road to the entrance point to Eli hatha. Sometimes we used short cuts too.
Rough indication about how we reached Eli Hatha
1st Fall – climbing down from Power house
2nd fall and top – using the foot path laid left from the stream
3rd ,4th and 5th hiking parallel to the stream from the right hand side of the stream
6th Hiking along the stream then hiking from left at last few meters.
7th hike using the foot path from left to the stream
We carried two tents, Packed breakfast & Lunch and enough snacks and just one pan for cooking. My plan was to cook only for the dinner. Noodles for night and bread and butter for morning. Dates, biscuits, cheese, chocolates for snacks. How good is that 
Rope which was brought by Amila was handy in difficult sections
This is how we achieved and there is no such specific way of doing same. One thing I have to tell you is you have to use your common sense and watch for the changes in weather and stream

Kovil Where we did rituals before the journey

Kovil Where we did rituals before the journey

Walking to the trail head (Photo Amila)

Walking to the trail head (Photo Amila)

Using Short cuts (Photo Sanketha)

Using Short cuts (Photo Sanketha)

Nice place to have a break

Nice place to have a break

Entrance point( Technically breaking only the first rule , But for a better purpose) (photo Amila)

Entrance point( Technically breaking only the first rule , But for a better purpose) (photo Amila)

Six Wonderers ( From Left De Waterfall hunter, Silent Warrior , Hi King , Jumbo , Stunt Prince , Notorious Major )

Six Wonderers ( From Left De Waterfall hunter, Silent Warrior , Hi King , Jumbo , Stunt Prince , Notorious Major )

First and second fall seen at trail head (Photo Ashan)

First and second fall seen at trail head (Photo Ashan)

Power plant ( You have to descend from this to see first fall )

Power plant ( You have to descend from this to see first fall )

First Fall (Photo Ashan)

First Fall (Photo Ashan)

Amila was drown in her beauty (Photo Amila)

Amila was drown in her beauty (Photo Amila)

Stunt Prince was stunned by her beauty (Photo Ashan)

Stunt Prince was stunned by her beauty (Photo Ashan)

We had our breakfast there (Photo Amila)

We had our breakfast there (Photo Amila)

Our guides   Suresh – Bottom and Kadol – Top (Photo Amila)

Our guides Suresh – Bottom and Kadol – Top (Photo Amila)

On the way to second fall .We were traveling parallel to stream ( from left hand side ) closer to this tunnel

On the way to second fall .We were traveling parallel to stream ( from left hand side ) closer to this tunnel

There was an easy foot path to reduce adventure but it’s little far from this (Photo Amila)

There was an easy foot path to reduce adventure but it’s little far from this (Photo Amila)

Came to the Second Fall

Came to the Second Fall

Fall with two sections (Photo Ashan)

Fall with two sections (Photo Ashan)

Major part

Major part

Calm base pool

Calm base pool

you can select a less deeper section and have a good bath

you can select a less deeper section and have a good bath

Lower section of 2nd fall seen from it’s base  (Photo Ashan)

Lower section of 2nd fall seen from it’s base (Photo Ashan)

We returned back from fall no 2 and hiked along the tunnel. After a hectic uphill journey we reached the top of Fall no 2 where the dam is built.

Dam and the anicut

Dam and the anicut

Deep base pool

Deep base pool

View from Top (Photo Sanketha)

View from Top (Photo Sanketha)

Relaxing time

Relaxing time

Severe drop

Severe drop

Posting for another group photo .From here we had to hike in the jungle from right hand side from the stream

Posting for another group photo .From here we had to hike in the jungle from right hand side from the stream

Entering The Forest Again (Photo Ashan)

Entering The Forest Again (Photo Ashan)

Small cave and a man built resting place

Small cave and a man built resting place

There was no path but hard climbing (Photo Ashan)

There was no path but hard climbing (Photo Ashan)

Beautiful NAYA GANGA Aka Seethawaka Oya

Beautiful NAYA GANGA Aka Seethawaka Oya

After nearly 45 min  hike we reached the Base of the Third Fall

After nearly 45 min hike we reached the Base of the Third Fall

Third fall ( Not as prominent as other falls )

Third fall ( Not as prominent as other falls )

We climbed along the rock to get a better view

We climbed along the rock to get a better view

But descending was tough and had some fun too…( Used a new rule – Friction of Buttocks  ) (Photo Amila)

But descending was tough and had some fun too…( Used a new rule – Friction of Buttocks  ) (Photo Amila)

Another cave cave  , A big one

Another cave cave , A big one

Gon Diva (Photo Ashan)

Gon Diva (Photo Ashan)

Misty & Mystery Forest (Photo Amila)

Misty & Mystery Forest (Photo Amila)

We had some rest on the top of Fall No 3

We had some rest on the top of Fall No 3

Time to have some snacks

Time to have some snacks

Crystal clear water

Crystal clear water

Oh what’s this. According to our numbering system This was 3 (A) …..  Because 4th fall is far from this

Oh what’s this. According to our numbering system This was 3 (A) ….. Because 4th fall is far from this

The Top of Fall 3A………………………………………………………… (Photo Amila)

The Top of Fall 3A………………………………………………………… (Photo Amila)

I did tell you that we should control our words in Peak wilderness( Kata parissam Karaganna one ) …But Our member Amila just forgot that and just Told ”Meke Wathura Nane” along with a good suddha Sinhala word in front  .and continued the journey. We couldn’t go even 10 minutes after that. It Began to rain…..And it began to rain heavily…we were helpless as we did not have any shelter……We tried our best to survive holding the fly sheet of Ashan’s tent …But it was barely enough and we all got wet….After nearly one hour rain stopped and we resumed the journey…..We noticed that the Fall no 4 was very closer to where we stopped for rain..But to reach it we had to descend trough a dangerous slippery rock…Everybody in the group except Ashan refused to see this fall. But Ashan’s natural instincts found a method to get down to a section where we can observe the fall . So me was the first to follow him. I took the rope but it was not that needed..Finally one by one we all reached a flat rock where we could observe the fall no 4

Fall no 4

Fall no 4

No 4 & Me. Watching from a middle platform

No 4 & Me. Watching from a middle platform

We Re- started hiking along the jungle and sooner we reached the fall no 05. We enjoyed the beauty and had lunch there..There was a section like a cave where you can observe the furious water flow of the fall….Mind you it was dangerous to reach it . On a dry season one might think of climbing to the top of the fall along the rock…but it was deadly dangerous and we never even thought of it…But to our utter surprise a group of young boys climbed to the top along the rock and served with a big Hoot to us for not attending such an adventurous climb. But we were stick with our plan and slowly climbed to the top though the thick forest…Bt It was not an easy task at all

Fall No 05 (Photo: Amila)

Fall No 05 (Photo: Amila)

Mist had invaded the area (Photo : Sanketha)

Mist had invaded the area (Photo : Sanketha)

Parts Fall no 05 with another angle (Photo Ashan)

Parts Fall no 05 with another angle (Photo Ashan)

Cave which I mentioned before

Cave which I mentioned before

Beautiful Flora (Photo Ashan)

Beautiful Flora (Photo Ashan)

Final look at fall no 05 (Photo : Sanketha)

Final look at fall no 05 (Photo : Sanketha)

Top Bio diversity spot in sri lanka (Photo : Amila)

Top Bio diversity spot in sri lanka (Photo : Amila)

Side view of fall no 5 while climbing from right (Photo : Sanketha)

Side view of fall no 5 while climbing from right (Photo : Sanketha)

I loved this misty weather

I loved this misty weather

Top of the fall no 05 (Photo : Ashan)

Top of the fall no 05 (Photo : Ashan)

Sharing the holly experience

Sharing the holly experience

After spending some time there we proceeded further. We had two plans at this moment. Try to reach rest of the falls and camp in a suitable place. If we didn’t find a suitable place for camping, descend to this place as we found two camping areas suitable for pitching tents here.

Mind you from this point our guide played cock and Bull. We were traveling upstream trough thick forest with a greater ascend. We were carrying our back packs which were so heavy. And path was slippery too. Because of the thickness of the forest we had a difficult time to creep through. Guide had cut the bushes in some areas but it was barely enough to creep to a person like him or prince. But not for a jumbo like me….and he was not sure about the path at all. Once he realize that he missed the path , he returned back and found another…but it was a dead end too. We were following him blindly and technically we were lost in wild. Drizzling seemed like not stopping and it was dark in the jungle although it was around 4.00 p.m.. So we all decided to get back to Top of fall no 05 where we thought of camping. My mouth just starting scolding at poor guides but Ashan made me calm down. Ashan made a good point. This Sri Pada Adawiya is a rain forest which gets rain throughout the year and the paths are soon disappeared because of the quick growth of plants. So even a person who had come here few months back has a tend to miss the route. So after hectic attempt we all came to the place ( Top of fall mo 05 ) to settle down.

Came back

Came back

With a difficulty pitched the two tents on uneven wet rocks (Photo : Ashan)

With a difficulty pitched the two tents on uneven wet rocks (Photo : Ashan)

Greatest difficulty was firing the wet firewood in drizzling conditions

Greatest difficulty was firing the wet firewood in drizzling conditions

Preparing tea and Dinner (Photo : Ashan)

Preparing tea and Dinner (Photo : Ashan)

Early dinner (Photo : Amila)

Early dinner (Photo : Amila)

View from our camping place (Photo : Amila)

View from our camping place (Photo : Amila)

More views (Photo : Amila)

More views (Photo : Amila)

Camp fire did not last long due to heavy drizzle…..

Camp fire did not last long due to heavy drizzle…..

We crept into our tents after having dinner. It was around 6.30-7.00. Me , Ashan, Prince and one guide were in Ashan’s Tent and Amila, Sri, Sanketha and the other guide were in Sanketha’s tent. Actually it was a sleepless night. It was continuously drizzling. Water was creeping under our tent so water could penetrate even through the thick ground sheet of the tent. We all were shivering and prince was the most. Every hour or so Ashan woke up and opened the tent to check water levels of the stream. ( He had seen a bad dream of our tent being taken away by flood . Since the camp fire was gone there was a danger of wild beasts. Somehow rather we were able to close our eyes and stay still till dawn comes

Sinking Moon (Photo : Ashan)

Sinking Moon (Photo : Ashan)

Arrival of dawn (Photo : Ashan)

Arrival of dawn (Photo : Ashan)

Life around our camping site

Life around our camping site

Wana Raja

Wana Raja

Iru Raja

Iru Raja

Having Breakfast and Mostly affected Prince gets the fire treatment

Having Breakfast and Mostly affected Prince gets the fire treatment

After having breakfast we resumed the journey. I suggested that we should go upstream as much as possible because of the bitter incident happened last day. For our advantage the rain was settled and it was sunny. So without unfolding the tents we proceeded taking only our valuable things.
But walking upstream was not an easy task and some of our team slipped and had minor injuries too. But we didn’t have any other option. Also we met few beautiful cascades and we named them 5A, 5B, 5 C, etc…..

Cascades on the way`(Photo : Sanketha)

Cascades on the way`(Photo : Sanketha)

Hiking Upstream

Hiking Upstream

5B (Photo : Sanketha)

5B (Photo : Sanketha)

Helping Each other (Photo : Ashan)

Helping Each other (Photo : Ashan)

More cascades

More cascades

5 D

5 D

From this point we had a problem . Although we saw the glimpse of a big fall there was no way of going further upstream due to large rocky boulders. So our guide suggested that we should hike through the jungle. But this time also he did a mess. We climbed from right side of the stream. It was very difficult and risky. One occasion I just touched a fallen tree and it was further loosen and hit the head of Sanketha who was coming behind me. But he managed to move his head at right time and had only a miner swelling in his head. After some useless effort we realized that again we were going nowhere. Only option was to descend to the stream again. But it was also too difficult due to severe drop. Again Instincts of Hi King Saved us and he find a place (somewhat risky) where we can get down to stream. After getting to the stream Sanketha’s experience came in to part and he said that they had crossed the stream and climbed from left side in there last visit. So we did that and found the beautiful Hidden beauty Fall no 06

Getting Down to the stream

Getting Down to the stream

Crossing the steam . See fall no six is very close now

Crossing the steam . See fall no six is very close now

Hiking from left side

Hiking from left side

Hi King Helping The Hunter

Hi King Helping The Hunter

Here is the Hidden Beauty which most of the travelers miss / FALL NO 06 (Photo : Ashan)

Here is the Hidden Beauty which most of the travelers miss / FALL NO 06 (Photo : Ashan)

Zoomed Upper Part (Photo : Sanketha)

Zoomed Upper Part (Photo : Sanketha)

Beauty and the worrier

Beauty and the worrier

There was a foot path from 6th fall to the base of 7th fall. Guides were also confident about that path. We just had to follow the clear but difficult foot path. Then reach our target, mission, dream and have a good time

Foot path through the jungle

Foot path through the jungle

First Glimps of Fall no 07 (Photo : Ashan)

First Glimps of Fall no 07 (Photo : Ashan)

Top of Fall no 06/ Base of fall no 07

Top of Fall no 06/ Base of fall no 07

What a beauty . Fall no 07 (Photo : Ashan)

What a beauty . Fall no 07 (Photo : Ashan)

Zoomed top Part (Photo : Ashan)

Zoomed top Part (Photo : Ashan)

Full View. You can compare the height of the fall

Full View. You can compare the height of the fall

Major, King & Hunter

Major, King & Hunter

Happy Worriers after completing the mission (Photo : Ashan)

Happy Worriers after completing the mission (Photo : Ashan)

Our Guides (Photo : Sanketha)

Our Guides (Photo : Sanketha)

We should not forget this guy too…It helped us in difficult sections

We should not forget this guy too…It helped us in difficult sections

Beauty of nature

Beauty of nature

More flora

More flora

Yellow Beauty

Yellow Beauty

Then came the fun time …bathing in ice cold water

Then came the fun time …bathing in ice cold water

Expert swimmer

Expert swimmer

Samanala Adawiya

Samanala Adawiya

Samanalaya Ha Ashan Lamaya

Samanalaya Ha Ashan Lamaya

Of course we did not climb the top ..but satisfied with looking at this gorgeous Girl

Of course we did not climb the top ..but satisfied with looking at this gorgeous Girl

Clear View

Clear View

Silent worrier completes his second visit to Eli Hatha . Which is a rare incident for an outside hiker

Silent worrier completes his second visit to Eli Hatha . Which is a rare incident for an outside hiker

We enjoyed to the fullest and returned back . Our guide played an innovative role and used a different foot path. It ended up in the stream somewhere between 6th and 5th falls. Then we descended to our camping site by hiking downstream. After coming there we finished all the remaining snacks and packed our baggage and climb down throght the forest. At the top of second fall I informed Mr. Shanthasiri to bring packed lunch for us to where we stayed before the hike. He had done it perfectly

Beauty of Nature

Beauty of Nature

Bio diversity

Bio diversity

Came back to Top Of Fall no 05 and Re packed our Bags

Came back to Top Of Fall no 05 and Re packed our Bags

Udamaliboda Tea Factory Zoomed (Photo : Ashan)

Udamaliboda Tea Factory Zoomed (Photo : Ashan)

Descend Through the Thick Forest

Descend Through the Thick Forest

Too Sharp

Too Sharp

Life is everywhere………That’s why I love Wet forests

Life is everywhere………That’s why I love Wet forests

Slipping , Falling , and creating new paths were common

Slipping , Falling , and creating new paths were common

Lost Again. While waiting till guides find a path

Lost Again. While waiting till guides find a path

Top of Fall no 02

Top of Fall no 02

We came to the resting place and enjoyed delicious lunch after having a perfect bath at nearby anicut. It was around 2.30 p.m. We settled the payments of our guides. One thing I have to tell you although they missed the path at several occations these Tamil young boys were very humble to us. And they even asked such a small tip for their service but we paid them much more than that. Amila just explain how they should improve as guides and we all said good bye to them and our friend Sahnthasiri. We walked towards udamaliboda factory while sri and prince enjoyed the bike ride.At some place we got lifts from a tri wheeler and another jeep. We caught the udamaliboda Bus and came to Avissawella. We all went our homes around 9.00 p.m.
So this is how we ended our dreamy journey. It was one of my best hikes for ever. I wish the readers too enjoy this memorable journey. But please remember “Safety is first”
Thanks for reading

Enjoy this dream journey. But remember “SAFETY IS FIRST “ . BYE FOR NOW

Enjoy this dream journey. But remember “SAFETY IS FIRST “ . BYE FOR NOW

All FIVE peaks of Knuckles in ONE day (1844m)

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Year and Month April, 2015 (8th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 03-Niroshan,Nirosh,Siraj
Accommodation
  • 07th night at Panwila Guest House. – T.P:0812472388
  • Sanduni Guest House-Bambaralla is an alternative option. T.P: 0722001001
Transport Bus, Three wheel and walking
Activities Mountain climbing, Sightseeing and Photography
Weather Gloomy then drizzling
Route Colombo  -> Kandy -> Waththegama (වත්තේගම) -> Panwila (පන්විල) -> Bambaralla(බඹරැල්ල) -> Knuckles peaks -> Back to same route to Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Two main points of covering all five peaks in one day:
  • Start the journey at least 6.30am from Thawalanthanna (තවලන්තැන්න)
  • Carry only essential things for a day hike: “light pack-fast walk”
  • Last bus from Bambaralla to Kandy/Waththegama at 5.00pm. But it is not sure. If you can go to Gomariya road, you can catch 4.20pm bus to Kandy. Better clarify bus time table from Thilaka Stores Thawalnthanna: 0813843365
  • Weather of Knuckles range is unpredictable. Therefore better know about current weather before you go there. Again contact Thilaka stores.
  • Leech protection methods to be followed. Knuckles range is highly infested with leeches. Alum was a successful method in prevention of leeches.
  • Better wear attire.
  • Carrying enough water is a must. No water sources on peaks of the range. Bring at least 1.5liter-2liter per a person. Water requirement would be changed according to weather condition. Though we carry 3liters per person, we used only about 1.5liter due to less hot weather.
  • Still bit doubtful about need of permission for this climbing. There is a forest office at Panwila. But we didn’t get it.
  • Climbing from Bambaralla side and getting down from Thangappuwa (තoගප්පුව) side is another option
  • There is a foot pathway (short cut) from Thilaka stores-Thawalanthanna to trail head.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Knuckles peaks-view from Mudukirigala-Kadugannawa

Knuckles peaks-view from Mudukirigala-Kadugannawa

Knuckles peaks-view from Hanthana range

Knuckles peaks-view from Hanthana range

Climbing all five Knuckles peaks was one of my dreams. Do it within one day was a challenge. Once I tried to cover five peaks with night camping. (I will tell later). But it was not successful as thick mist covered everywhere and we could reach only up to 4th peak.

We stayed the night at Panwila guest house and started the journey from there around 5.30am. By 6.15am we reached Thawalanthanna and kept our unnecessary stuff at Thilaka Stores to start the journey. Three wheel driver agreed to bring us for another 1km along the gravel road and then started walking. (There is a foot pathway to cut this distance). Knuckles Mountain was clearly visible without mist covering.

“Kandasamy Gala” කන්දසාමි ගල-Sacred rock situated closer to Knuckles

“Kandasamy Gala” කන්දසාමි ගල-Sacred rock situated closer to Knuckles

Blessings...

Blessings…

Following the short cut

Following the short cut

Armed with ALUM- AlSO4 gives good protection from Leeches

Armed with ALUM- AlSO4 gives good protection from Leeches

Last set of line houses we met

Last set of line houses we met

Starting point of Knuckles climbing

Starting point of Knuckles climbing

There is a clear foot pathway up to 2nd peak of Knuckles. Second peak is the highest out of five and most common peak to everyone who climbs Knuckles. Initial part of this foot pathway has a small ascend and five peaks are clearly visible there. Knuckles fall is also situated closer to the pathway. Last water stream for the entire hiking would come across there. Gradually the ascend becomes more and foot pathway goes through thick forest.

You will come across a foot pathway goes down to Thangappuwa at one point. (Actually it joins with Thangappuwa-Alugal Lena-අලුගල් ලෙන foot pathway). First Knuckles peak doesn’t provide a good surrounding view as it’s covered with bushes. There is a camp site prepared at first peak.

Second peak provides splendid surrounding view. On top of second peak you can view Thawalanthanna, Hunnasgiriya (හුන්නස්ගිරිය) peak, Hanthana (හන්තාන) range, Alu Gal Lena Mountain, Kehelpothdoruwegala (කෙහෙල්පොත්දොරුවේගල) and rest of Knuckles range. Then it is the common camping site of a lot of travelers who spend the night there. (I will tell about camping experience on Knuckles peaks later).

Knuckles Falls-නකල්ස් ඇල්ල

Knuckles Falls-නකල්ස් ඇල්ල

Getting initial steps….

Getting initial steps….

Numbering of five peaks

Numbering of five peaks

KNUCKLS

KNUCKLS

Crossing the last water stream

Crossing the last water stream

Entering to a flat terrain

Entering to a flat terrain

This might be a seasonal water source. It will completely dry out during dry season.

This might be a seasonal water source. It will completely dry out during dry season.

Climbing further....

Climbing further….

Looked back……

Looked back……

Getting into thick forest

Getting into thick forest

Rest station made by forest department. But it is extremely difficult to rest here due to leeches and flies

Rest station made by forest department. But it is extremely difficult to rest here due to leeches and flies

Trio of the journey....

Trio of the journey….

Main junction: White arrow towards the peaks and red arrow towards Thangappuwa

Main junction: White arrow towards the peaks and red arrow towards Thangappuwa

Closer to 1st peak

Closer to 1st peak

Off seasonal NELU-නෙලු

Off seasonal NELU-නෙලු

Reaching the first peak. Latitude, Longitude 7.402632,80.808842 -Elevation-1800 meters (5905 feet).This is the camping site made by someone at there.

Reaching the first peak. Latitude, Longitude 7.402632,80.808842 -Elevation-1800 meters (5905 feet).This is the camping site made by someone at there.

View from first Knuckles peak is blocked with bushes

View from first Knuckles peak is blocked with bushes

Second Knuckles peak-Highest peak

Second Knuckles peak-Highest peak

View of first peak on the way to second peak.

View of first peak on the way to second peak.

Passing first peak

Passing first peak

On top of second peak Latitude, Longitude 7.400771, 80.810616 -Elevation-1844 meters (6050 feet)

On top of second peak Latitude, Longitude 7.400771, 80.810616 -Elevation-1844 meters (6050 feet)

Thawalanthanna side

Thawalanthanna side

The route we came

The route we came

Hanthana Mountain Range is popped up……

Hanthana Mountain Range is popped up……

Hunnasgiriya Peak

Hunnasgiriya Peak

Highest peak of Knuckles Range-Gombaniya(ගොම්බානිය)

Highest peak of Knuckles Range-Gombaniya(ගොම්බානිය)

View of Kehelpothdoruwegala. Yahangala (යහන්ගල) is seen back.

View of Kehelpothdoruwegala. Yahangala (යහන්ගල) is seen back.

Alugal Lena Mountain? Kalupahana (අලුගල් ලෙන කන්ද)? කළුපහන

Alugal Lena Mountain? Kalupahana (අලුගල් ලෙන කන්ද)? කළුපහන

Alugal Lena Mountain is shown in red arrow and Sphinx Rock is shown by green arrow

Alugal Lena Mountain is shown in red arrow and Sphinx Rock is shown by green arrow

Delighted faces on second peak

Delighted faces on second peak

View of third, fourth and fifth.

View of third, fourth and fifth.

Another picture of surrounding view

Another picture of surrounding view

Time was around 10.30 when we reach second peak. Though it was a gloomy day surrounding view was clear. After enjoying the view there, we stepped down towards the third peak. There was an acute drop at foot pathway from second peak to third and we reached an opening area after a while. (In between second and third peak). I remembered the furious wind we experienced here in my first attempt. We were about to thrown away because of wind. We reached the third peak without much exertion.

Direction of mountain range was changed after third peak. You would not have clear foot pathway following the opening area between second and third. But improper foot pathway was seen, might be made by Sambur. As usual there were ascends and descends in between third, fourth and fifth peaks.

We reached the fifth peak by around 12.30pm and mist was covering second peak when we looked back. We felt we were so lucky to not to have misty view till we finishes the journey.

On our way down we were caught to a slight rain and came to Thawalanthanna by 3.30pm.

View towards third peak

View towards third peak

Reaching the opening area. Second peak is seen behind.

Reaching the opening area. Second peak is seen behind.

View at opening area: First peak is shown by black arrow and second peak is shown by red arrow

View at opening area: First peak is shown by black arrow and second peak is shown by red arrow

On top of third peak Latitude, Longitude 7.399366, 80.809972 -Elevation-1840 meters (6038 feet)

On top of third peak Latitude, Longitude 7.399366, 80.809972 -Elevation-1840 meters (6038 feet)

View towards Thawalanthanna

View towards Thawalanthanna

Looked back...second peak

Looked back…second peak

Other side...4th and 5th peaks

Other side…4th and 5th peaks

Getting down from third peak

Getting down from third peak

In between the area of third and fourth peak. One side is faced to Thawalanthanna and other side is faced to Meemure (මීමුරේ).

In between the area of third and fourth peak. One side is faced to Thawalanthanna and other side is faced to Meemure (මීමුරේ).

Coming from third peak…..

Coming from third peak…..

On top of 4th peak

On top of 4th peak

Siraj is showing the 4th peak

Siraj is showing the 4th peak

View towards 5th peak

View towards 5th peak

View of 2nd, 3rd and 4th peaks from fifth peak

View of 2nd, 3rd and 4th peaks from fifth peak

The route we followed

The route we followed

Nirosh is showing fifth peak

Nirosh is showing fifth peak

 

Visit the Biggest Island in Sri Lanka (Delft)

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Year and Month March, 2015 (8th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 8 (between 25-26 years of age) – Uthpala,Nishanthan,Arunjan,Geewa,Me,Selwa & his friend
Accommodation N/A
Transport Bike, Boat & Ferry
Activities Travelling, Photography, Boat journey & get a long sea bath
Weather Hot
Route Chankanei -> Jaffna -> Kurikadduvan jetty -> Delft Island -> Return to Kurikadduvan -> Kaits -> Kasurina beach -> Jaffna -> Chankanei
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • No need to get permission.
  • There are two boats leave from Kurikadduwan at 8.30am & 9.00am to Delft Island. Then they leave from Delft Island at about 2.00 pm & 3.00 pm to kurikadduwan.
  • There are trishaws & cabs available to travelling.
  • There is a small hotel & some places in homes which provide food & beverage at fair price.
  • And also there are mini shops to by some common goods.
  • When you travelling a boat take care about your security by yourself.
  • You are a visitor for here so please respect others.
  • Leave only your footprint & bring only sweet memories.
Author upul nandana
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Travelling the Delft, the largest island of Sri Lanka is dated on final day of my travel. There is a boat service which commence from “Kurikadduwan” jetty for this and our intention was to left from the first boat which started at 8.30 am. According to that three of us left from house very early and other guys join with us from Jaffna.

The one of late comer completely broke our dreams and the boat had left when we reached to the jetty. The only alternative is the second boat which leaves at 9.30 am. So we stay jetty for that and it started at 9.30 am.

Sun rising for another beautiful day

Sun rising for another beautiful day

Walking to the school

Walking to the school

It’s familiar for Jaffna

It’s familiar for Jaffna

All are good riders

All are good riders

Fey lives

Fey lives

It’s memorized our earlier day trip

It’s memorized our earlier day trip

Waiting for a chance

Waiting for a chance

Lonely

Lonely

She will brings us to delft

She will brings us to delft

The devotes for Nagadeepa

The devotes for Nagadeepa

Watch hut

Watch hut

Towards Nainativu

Towards Nainativu

Island lives

Island lives

Times’ up for launch the boat

Times’ up for launch the boat

Good bye Kurikadduvan

Good bye Kurikadduvan

Withdraw orderly

Withdraw orderly

Delft people

Delft people

Nainativu Island

Nainativu Island

First clear view of Delft

First clear view of Delft

Part of our gang

Part of our gang

Coastguard by SL Navy

Coastguard by SL Navy

Close to disembark

Close to disembark

Erect new jetty

Erect new jetty

Land to Delft

Land to Delft

We reached to Delft Island after a one hour boat journey and Nishanthan arranged a jeep the rest from here.  It was easy to find a taxi from their because of the tourism. The dry weather condition of here those days and the huge wind mixed with dust are disturbed for us.

First of all we walked to watch the huge “Bao Babs” tree. “Baboba” is a rare species for Sri Lanka and also it called as Cream of Tartar, Monkey bread tree, Lemonade tree etc. Delft is a one of place which we can see “Baboba”. It’s a good food for camels. It has an enormous trunk which tapers into branches. Large “Baboba” trees have been used by people for centuries for various purposes including houses, prisons, pubs, storage etc.

Ready to go

Ready to go

Ohh it’s not good

Ohh it’s not good

Palmyra yard

Palmyra yard

Little cow boy

Little cow boy

Huge Bao Babs tree

Huge Bao Babs tree

Like a cave

Like a cave

He is very friendly

He is very friendly

Where we next?

Where we next?

Just click

Just click

Then we went to watch the “growing stone”. This stone is five feet height above the ground and islanders believe that the stone is growing gradually. And also they believe the power of the Island is depend on this stone. So they treated this as god. And also a small shrine can be seen near to this miracle stone.

Growing stone

Growing stone

Worshipful place

Worshipful place

A fane

A fane

Nice way

Nice way

Good idea

Good idea

Coral use for this

Coral use for this

Still collect

Still collect

Ohh…

Ohh…

Yum… Yumm…

Yum… Yumm…

Then we walked to watch the pigeon nest which situated near the Dutch fort. This is designed as lodge to the pigeons that send mails to Jaffna by Dutch people.

The Dutch fort which made on colonial time can be scene back to the government hospital. According to the data which mentioned here, mortar & limestone are used to make that. And also it contains two stories and the ground floor consists of five rooms. And also there are no any ventilation systems, so it consider as a store of ammunition and prisoners. This is strong enough to face the hostile attacks and now it goes to ruin. But the splendor of that is still exists in safe condition.

Then we went to watch the only religious ruin place. It is situated close to corner of the island & made by using limestone.

Walking

Walking

Pigeon Holes

Pigeon Holes

Just click

Just click

Name board

Name board

Lonely hospital

Lonely hospital

Old Dutch fort

Old Dutch fort

Huge wall

Huge wall

Now it become ruins

Now it become ruins

All are in one frame

All are in one frame

Ruins of an ancient Buddhist pagoda

Ruins of an ancient Buddhist pagoda

Innocent child

Innocent child

Colossal footprint

Colossal footprint

In front of mini shop

In front of mini shop

Just click

Just click

Road is not bad

Road is not bad

One part of the Island is used by villagers and the other part is used by horses & cattle. After bringing wild horses they had brought plant to feed them as well as medicinal plant. The “Biobab” tree is a plant which brought to feed to the horses. The population of wild horses is around 500. Early in the morning these horses come to grassland and when the heat is high they are going to covers. Though there is water in one part of the year, the rest part they are suffering due to lack of water.

Unfortunately when we go there 12.30 pm. So there are no many horses can be see because of the tough sunlight.

Wild Horses

Wild Horses

Straight way

Straight way

Not suit to drink

Not suit to drink

 

We finished our Island journey at about 1pm. The lunch is ready at the Island home according to Nishanthans’ message. (There is a place to buy foods for tourists in this island) So then we came back after the lunch.

The first boat which left from the Island is on 2.00pm & it’s a RDA boat. So we can go free of charge. (This one is the first boat which from Kurikadduvan to Delft also) The depth of the jetty is not enough because of the size of boat. So passengers travel to that boat by a SL navy boat in four stages

Time to leave

Time to leave

Navy guys helped us

Navy guys helped us

Vainglory

Vainglory

They dig the jetty

They dig the jetty

You can come to jetty near future

You can come to jetty near future

Crazy name

Crazy name

Transfer to ship

Transfer to ship

Finished the duty

Finished the duty

Endless ocean

Endless ocean

Close to Nainativu

Close to Nainativu

Life is not simple

Life is not simple

Shining

Shining

Crossing point

Crossing point

Ready to landing

Ready to landing

We entered to “kurikadduwan” again noted with the end of the boat safari with full of beautiful experiences. Then we went to “kasurina beach” across Kites. It is not any suspect, that’s the most beautiful beach in Jaffna.

A Successful journey

A Successful journey

Lonely boat

Lonely boat

Plucking harvest

Plucking harvest

Next there

Next there

Old

Old

A ferry

A ferry

Name board

Name board

Owners of the lagoon

Owners of the lagoon

Freedom beach

Freedom beach

Blue border

Blue border

Sand pattern

Sand pattern

Sand pattern

Sand pattern

Friendship forever

Friendship forever

Try to touch the sun

Try to touch the sun

Feeling crazy…

Feeling crazy…

Friendship forever…

Friendship forever…

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

Majestic sunset

After feeling the beauty of “kasurina beach” we were lucky to watch a majestic sunset at there. Then we went to “Rio” with noticing end of the day. After that we left from there with leave our friends & went to Aruns’ home at Chankanei.  We end our dream journey during 6 days which looking for beauty of Jaffna with the intention of come back home by a “Yaldevi” next day.

I give my heartiest thanks to Arunjan,Nishanthan,Selwadas & all of my friends to gave me such sweet memories to my memory book.

Thank you very much for reading my report.

Have a safe & successful journey!!

 

Beragala Kanda (1700m) බෙරගල කන්ද

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Year and Month 2015 March 16th
Number of Days One Day
Crew 02-Nirosh and Niroshan
Accommodation Uma Guest House-Uwa Thanna (Previous day night)
Transport By bus and then climbing
Activities Mountain climbing and Photography
Weather Excellent
Route Kalupahana( කලුපහන ) -> Beragala (බෙරගල) -> Back to Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Start the journey in early morning
  • It essentially needs a local guide to roam in this area. I found the guide via one of my contacts at Haldummulla.
  • Carry at least 1liter of water for one person
  • Better wear attire
  • Leech protection method to be followed
  • This is kind of a moderate strenuous hike except few difficult sections. I spent about 2hours to reach the target
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Beragala is an important junction when you travel in Colombo-Badulla road. At Beragala the road get divides towards Koslanda and Badulla. (Actually A4 continues as Colombo-Wellawaya-Batticalo road and A16 starts as Beragala-Hali-Ela road) Most of the time travelers get a short break at Beragala.
Beragala Kanda is situated at back drop of Beragala junction.
I have noticed this mountain during my first visit to Haldummulla (Refer trip report).
I planned to climb Beragala Mountain on the following day of climbing Idalgashinna Mountain (Refer trip report).

We met our guide at Haldummulla (හල්දුම්මුල්ල්ල) traveled towards Bathgoda (බත්ගොඩ) junction where Beragala Kovil is situated. There is a tarred road on left hand side at that junction. We walked just 10m – 15m along this road and got the foot pathway in right hand side.
This foot pathway goes closer to our guide’s home and we kept all our unnecessary stuff there.
There was a clear foot pathway through Mana bushes till certain distance and then it disappeared. It was not difficult to walk after this as Mana bushes were not that much tall. After about half an hour journey we came to first view point.
Koslanda area, Balangoda, Haldummulla and Southern plane of Sri Lanka were clearly visible there.
After another 20 minutes climb, we reached second view point.
Highest point of Beragala kanda can’t be reach from this direction due to acute steepness. You have to come from Haputhale side to reach the top of Beragala Kanda.

Black star shows Beragala Kanda and black line shows pathway we followed. (Approximate)

Black star shows Beragala Kanda and black line shows pathway we followed. (Approximate)

View of Beragala Kanda at junction

View of Beragala Kanda at junction

Beragala Kanda is shown in black arrow.  This was taken at Idalgashinna

Beragala Kanda is shown in black arrow. This was taken at Idalgashinna

Closer view

Closer view

Pathway we have to walk

Pathway we have to walk

Just started in early morning....

Just started in early morning….

Balathuduwa (බලතුඩුව) and Gommolliya (ගොම්මොල්ලිය) are shown in black star and Idalgashinna Mountain is shown by red star.

Balathuduwa (බලතුඩුව) and Gommolliya (ගොම්මොල්ලිය) are shown in black star and Idalgashinna Mountain is shown by red star.

It is a sunny day

It is a sunny day

ALUM coverage

ALUM coverage

On the way up....

On the way up….

On the way up

On the way up

Climbed further up....

Climbed further up….

Zoomed view of Beragala tea factory

Zoomed view of Beragala tea factory

View towards Koslanda side

View towards Koslanda side

Beragala Hindu Kovil

Beragala Hindu Kovil

Southern plane and Pambahinna ( පඹහින්න) area

Southern plane and Pambahinna ( පඹහින්න) area

Some more to go.....

Some more to go…..

Rest of the climb

Rest of the climb

Narrow pathway

Narrow pathway

Guide is leading....

Guide is leading….

Another move....

Another move….

Good bye Nirosh...He refused to climb further up…..

Good bye Nirosh…He refused to climb further up…..

Second view point……

Second view point……

Beragala junction

Beragala junction

In between Beragala and Haldummulla

In between Beragala and Haldummulla

Haldummulla side

Haldummulla side

Black arrow shows A16-Beragala-Hali Ela road and yellow arrow shows A4-Colombo-Wellawaya-Batticalo road

Black arrow shows A16-Beragala-Hali Ela road and yellow arrow shows A4-Colombo-Wellawaya-Batticalo road

Further up....

Further up….

This part can't be conquered from this side…..

This part can’t be conquered from this side…..

Beragala Mountain has a unique view of rock formation. This can be seen from Beragala Junction. The name “Beragala” (බෙරගල) also came due to this rock formation (most probably, according to our local guide).
Then we headed towards this “Beragala”. It was situated towards Beragala town. There was a foot pathway towards this rock. Actually this foot pathway connects Idalgashinna with some other village (can’t remember the name).

Clear foot pathway and one of the good guides I met as he always carried my bag.

Clear foot pathway and one of the good guides I met as he always carried my bag.

We were there

We were there

Reaching Beragala

Reaching Beragala

I am on top of බෙරය.

I am on top of බෙරය.

Beragala

Beragala

Beragala is circled

Beragala is circled

We had a day.....

We had a day…..

Thanks for reading

Unearthing an Inestimable Treasure – Samadhi Buddha of Divulwewa…

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Year and Month 1 Apr, 2015
Number of Days 1
Crew Two Locals from Keeriyagaswewa (Daya & Tissa) and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Bus and Tuk-Tuk
Activities Archeology, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo->Aukana->Kekirawa->Divulwewa via Ganewelpola->Moragoda->Galen Bindunuwewa and Komarikawala.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • This is not known by many people even the villagers around the archeological site. So the intention is to create awareness and tempt you to visit this often.
    • You can take public transport to reach the site or call Daya (071-119138 or 072-9740158) for a tuk-tuk ride.
    • There are a few other villages called Divulwewa and don’t get confused with them.
    • From Kekirawa it’s 44km to Divulwewa and from Ganelwelpola it’s 37km along the Galenbindunuwewa-Hamillewa Road. (B133)
    • Thanks to Amazing Lanka for their brief article on this.
    • Very special thanks to the Archeological Officials onsite for their invaluable help and insight.
    • Go see these unknown beauties whenever possible coz it helps create awareness and keep the treasure hunters and other rascals away.
    • Help protect the Mother Nature.
    • Hats off to the archaeological officials, especially working at remote areas, for their dedication to protect and safeguard our heritage. They are working with bare minimal and hopefully the authorities will be able to provide them with more manpower, equipment and other necessities to restore, protect and unearth these ancient wonders of our proud ancestors.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hello everyone! Hope you have got a couple of hours with nothing urgent coz I would like to take you to a very special archeological site which is not so popular and known. Ok, let’s get down to business straight away.

I’ll begin with a feeble question. “Do you know the Samadhi Statue?” Well I know now you’re getting worked up coz if there was a dumb question, this is it. But before you close the computer and go away seething with rage, give me a few seconds to explain myself. Another question: “Where is the Samadhi Statue you know located?”. A little better but still silly, ain’t it? You would proudly say in Anuradhapura. Well most of the ancient great statues are in Anuradhapura & Polonnaruwa so even if you didn’t know, a wild guess would have been enough. You’re right absolutely. The great Samadhi Statue that emanates so much serenity, peace and compassion is in Anuradhapura and to be more precise at Mahamevuna Uyana.

I don’t think there is another greater statue that shows the noble qualities of the greatest philosopher to have walked on this earth, the Lord Buddha. I’m sure most of you have been to this amazing creation by our great ancestors. I keep saying that they couldn’t have been ordinary human beings but super humans who could do virtually anything. Well even nowadays we have supermen but all they do is destroy the wonderful things our ancestors created. One such example is the robbery of the National Museum when one superman called Kangatta managed all alone to lift a lorry load of things from the National Museum close to a High Security Zone. His spiritual powers were such he knew exactly when the CCTV cameras would be out of order. Maybe he even managed to make them redundant with his powers. The superman we knew as kids would have committed suicide feeling ashamed of himself after our superman’s work. Ok, I admit that I’m feeling bitter about the brutal way they robbed our National Museum but who wouldn’t?

Leaving it aside for the time being (you can bet your last penny you would hear my bitterness in the future) let’s move on. The Samadhi Buddha we know or popular among the majority of the crowd is simply an artwork with impeccable precision. What would you say if I told you that there is a similar or even a twin statue in Anuradhapura but more than 50km to the northeast in a small village known as Divulwewa? There could be a few people who may have heard about this or even visited the site but majority of you wouldn’t have thought about a twin Samadhi Statue, would you? Well lemme tell you there is one and you are coming with me. I was at Aukana after visiting the Res Vehera with Niroshan. Simple click on the link will take you to that report. Then I called Daya and told him that I was leaving. The time was past 1.30pm and I had more than 50km to go see this wonderful creation.

I took a Kekirawa bus (don’t expect me to tell or show you the pics of Kala Wewa once again) and got there sooner than expected. Daya had gone home having waited for me the whole morning so I had to take another bus and meet him halfway through. Getting into a Galenbindunuwewa bus, i bought a ticket for Rs. 38/- to Moragoda Junction. Surprisingly I was given the 2-rupee balance without a mega teledrama. By the way, have you noticed the number of villages in the North Central which has “Wewa” to the end of their name? It almost acts like a suffix. You know suffixes, don’t you? If you don’t, just type the word “suffix” on Google and press enter. You’ll be in safe hands.

It’s 19km from Kekirawa to Moragoda (Rs. 2/- per km). I won’t bother describing how gorgeous Ritigala looked in the distance. Daya was waiting when I arrived with a friend of him, Tissa (not the one who went hiking with me). Even in my last visit I had told Daya about the Divulwewa Samadhi Buddha but we couldn’t do anything due to the heavy rains. Therefore I was determined to make it happen this time come rain or shine. We drove on along the Galenbindunuwewa-Hamillewa (gosh, the length of their names) B133 road. Still even Daya had no clue about what we were going to see however he knew someone working at the archeological site there. We were going to meet him and get the details. We drove past Hurulu Wewa and then Yakalla to Galenbindunuwewa (thanks for the ctrl+C option). Then continued towards Hamillewa until we arrived at that person’s place.

Daya went to check if he was there and our luck held. He was at home and we got the directions and continued but not before his stern piece of advice, “you can’t take pictures there, ok?”. I just kept quiet and looked at him passively. We passed 21st Colony and asked for directions but nobody knew about a Samadhi statue but thankfully they knew there was an archeological site in Divulwewa. Passing Punchi Halmillewa we checked the directions once again but they still didn’t know about a Samadhi statue yet informed us that there’s a typical archeological sign on the main road. Feeling depressed we kept a look out for this archeological sign as it was the only thing we had. In the distance I saw the signature black sign on the right hand bank of the road but pointing to our left and it that stated “Divulwewa Archeological Site” – 250m.

I was so happy and when we checked with a group of people having a chat at a shop, they said this was the Komarikawala Junction. This is just after the 35th km post, about 400m passing it. We turned to the left and alas, as stated we could see an archeological site within a very short distance. Well done folks for getting the distance correct. It’s 27km from Moragoda junction to Divulwewa. All in all, there’s roughly 44-46km from Kekirawa.  There are a couple of villages called Divulwewa so be careful when you travel. The most misleading on is the Aluth Divulwewa in the vicinity of Galenbindunuwewa. There are a couple more in Medawachchiya as well. There is a gate to the archeological site but was closed and my heart skipped a beat. Further down next to the site is a temple and we went into that. There was someone coming out of the temple and we told him our purpose. He turned out to be an official of the archeological office and happily agreed to show us the place. He is one of those sensible type of officials who doesn’t stick to the rules like some holy book and not ready to be flexible. I’ve met similar practical people in places such as Nalanda Gedige, Jaffna Museum, Berandi Kovil etc. Even the air force officer who was at the Piduruthalagala summit was one such guy.

The structure that houses the Samadhi Buddha was nearby and from the distance we could see the resemblance. There was another archeological officer mowing the courtyard with a hoe. I ran to the front of the building and stopped in midair when I saw this majestic thing. The most notable thing being the broken nose from the bridge towards the nostrils. Except that this resembled the Samadhi Buddha we know at Mahamewna Uyana. I forgot all about the warning that was given by the other officer not taking any pictures and started shooting away. The one cleaning the garden came and stood watching us but didn’t say a word. I then remembered the warning and looked at the officers sheepishly hoping they wouldn’t fly off the handle coz there were many incidents like that as well in the past. They didn’t utter a word, instead looked at me, rather us, surprisingly as if they couldn’t believe our presence.

Finally, when I had completed my photo taking all around the statue and did my worships, the older one said: “I’d never have allowed anyone to take pictures but the moment I saw you, I knew you were genuinely interested in this. So I kept quiet.” Well, I don’t think I could have had a better compliment. Then he asked the younger officer to show us around. The complex is more than an acre in size (well it could be more but the area we could see was something like that) with remains of  more than half a dozen prominent foundations of ancient buildings such as Preaching Hall, Meditation Chambers, Monks’ Dwellings and a well-planned Kitchen. In addition to them, one striking feature among the ruins is what is believed to have been a library on stone pillars (Tam Pita).

Well turning back to the statue, to be honest I really don’t have recollections of visiting the original Samadhi Buddha in A’Pura Mahamevuna Uyana. I’ve been there in my school days but we had other things in our minds than admiring the craftsmanship of our great grandfathers. It’s vital for a country’s survival, especially to safeguard a country’s heritage, to educate the younger generation properly. They must be taught the history, not as a subject that they have to pass in the exams, but as a part of their lives. Most kids get bored coz they think it’s an additional strain on their already overloaded subjects and hardly take a genuine interest. You gotta make it interesting and enjoyable so that they will love learning more and visiting even more. I’m sure all the parents who read me and Lakdasun will try to get their kids interested in things like this than John Cena, Ben 10 or any superficial characters. Teach them that our ancestors would have had John Cena for breakfast and Ben 10 for dessert. No ordinary folks could have built things like these so tell them that the USA or the rest of the world has only one superman but we’d had many thousands.

However from what I’ve seen and heard from the officials on site, this Samadhi Buddha is more prominent in shape than the original one. I’m referring to the A’Pura one as the original coz it’s the most popular but this one could well be the original as the age is not properly measured. That is one but a major weakness of our archeologists and the department. Not being able to do a thorough analysis and get the details like these spot on. Maybe we have too many to check but we must do them as much as possible and as soon as we can. This Samadhi Buddha looks more muscular than the original version. Other than that, this could be a bit bigger but I couldn’t be sure. The broken nose somewhat made this less appealing than the other but the noble qualities of the Lord Buddha portrayed just the same.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

 

Here we are

Here we are

The structure reconstructed by the archaeological officers

The structure reconstructed by the archaeological officers

Where the Samadhi Buddha resides

Where the Samadhi Buddha resides

Amazing, let’s go in

Amazing, let’s go in

What do you think?

What do you think?

If if wasn't for the broken nose, almost a carbon copy of the A'Pura one

If if wasn’t for the broken nose, almost a carbon copy of the A’Pura one

Such impeccable craftmanship

Such impeccable craftsmanship

From the side, broken nose is more prominent

From the side, broken nose is more prominent

Carved out of Chandrakanthi Stone

Carved out of Chandrakanthi Stone

This is newly put together by those officers

This is newly put together by those officers

Serene looking

Serene looking

Closer, pity the nose is broken

Closer, pity the nose is broken

The structure

The structure

Other side

Other side

The Legend

Lemme tell you how this statue was located and it’s a folklore. The folklores are ok so long as they don’t contradict the real thing. As we know very little about this statue, we have to depend on things like that.

“This statue had been covered by a huge molehill when it was found by a group of people roaming the area which used to have been a thick forest. They had seen the head popping out of the top of the hill and found this after breaking the hard earth crust surrounding it. To make matters worse, there had been a Nuga Tree which the statue was leaned on. To get the statue and keep it somewhere safe they had to cut the tree.

Usually it’s believed that there are spirits or the way the villagers put it, gods living on trees like Nuga. So they decided to first ask whoever living (if there was) on the tree to leave so that they could cut it. Having done the rituals and promising to come back the following day to cut it and clear the statue, they had left. When they came prepared the following day, they had found a herd of elephants in the vicinity. They went to cut the tree after they had left and what they saw amazed them to no end.

The Nuga tree had been uprooted and thrown away by the elephants making their job easier. They had then cleaned the statue and started worshipping it.”

Well I asked how the nose was broken but the officer informed it was just like that when they came to the possession of it. It might have been broken when this was being unearthed or even after. A real pity. Ok, enough of my descriptions now go enjoy the pictures.

Rest of the Site

The Divulwewa Monastery is believed to have housed hundreds of monks within its environs during Anuradhapura period. There is a small complex of at least three structures but only the red brick foundations are visible. There were a few stone pillars in one of them. Beyond that towards the entrance was the biggest of the foundations. It is easily 40’X20′ and believed to be a preaching hall. The rest of the land is covered in many trees. However we saw another two more separate foundations further away from the Samadhi statue. They had stone steps leading up to the base and a few stone pillars as well. The officer then took us what believed to be the kitchen. The most distinguished feature is the large stone sink. There was the bottom of it was there but the cylindrical hole that lets water out was clearly visible. Not only that, the carved stone drain leading away from it sealed the fact.

It’d been unearthed by the archeological department and now preserved as best as their poor budget allows. Well this is the whole thing you can see at a glance. Our guide cum archeology officer then said that there’s a theory this statue was built somewhere else and brought here. However there is one thing that can contradict the theory. It’s nothing much but a rocky basin like thing which was believed to have been used to sharpen the tools that used to carve the statue. Well, you might remember the stone slab (Kadu Ge Gala) at Vijithapura temple that was apparently used by the King Dutugemunu’s army to sharpen their swords. It looks well worn out having used excessively. The stone basin like thing could be something like that but used to create a magnificent statue.

Archeological officers further revealed that there is a burial ground of the monks who lived here. It is located next to the monastery grounds where ashes of dead monks have been interred and covered with a stone slab. I wanted to go see it but due to the rains, it’d turned into a small tank leaving nothing much to see so we had to perish the thought. If you happen to visit during the dry season, do take a look and I’m planning to go see it if the time permits and the opportunity arises. It was getting late and we had to leave coz there were close to 30km for us to travel to reach Daya’s place. Tissa and Daya were very pleased with what we saw and kept repeating this was worth seeing again and again. They even felt a bit ashamed for being unaware of this great statue. As we were talking about protecting these kinda things from treasure hunters and vandals, our friendly officer invited us to see something heart breaking. Let’s go see what it is, shall we?

Surrounding remains of many buildings

Surrounding remains of many buildings

Can see a bottom of a Pun Kalasa below

Can see a bottom of a Pun Kalasa below

Urinal

Urinal

The main complex

The main complex

Very big

Very big

Many more like this

Many more like this

We walked around

We walked around

Entering one complex

Entering one complex

Here it is

Here it is

And another

And another

Shady paths leading to many other structures

Shady paths leading to many other structures

Here we go

Here we go

Tampita Viharaya

Tampita Viharaya

There's another at the end

There’s another at the end

Oh here it is

Oh here it is

Moonstone is almost gone

Moonstone is almost gone

Full pic

Full pic

Going back

Going back

Buddha housing building

Buddha housing building

Here's the believed kitchen

Here’s the believed kitchen

The floor dug out of the earth

The floor dug out of the earth

The zinc I told you about

The zinc I told you about

This is similar to Kadu Ge Gala at Vijithapura but here it's the tools that were sharpened which they believe used to create the statue

This is similar to Kadu Ge Gala at Vijithapura but here it’s the tools that were sharpened which they believe used to create the statue

The main building once again

The main building once again

Time to go but something else to show you

Time to go but something else to show you

Ignorance Causes Disasters

He showed us an ancient stone which had used as a flower stand. It is about 15’X4′ and had a white sticker pasted on the face which had been torn in places. Looking at closer we could see the black letters which read as “Eethalwetunuwewa Muslim School”. This Eethalwetunuwewa Muslim Village is located about 15km from the Divulwewa Monastery. How they came about this is still a mystery but initially they had carved the name on the face but apparently realizing that it was a wrong thing, had tried to cover the stone face with a sticker with their name, probably hoping to cover the stony surface. What kinda ignorant and heartless devils those buggers have been?

Thankfully but rather late, someone had run 119 and the police had found the flower stand destroyed beyond any restoration. I’m sure people like these will rot in hell.

Here the sheer stupidity and ignorance

Here the sheer stupidity and ignorance

We heard the same story when we visited Muhudu Maha Viharaya in 2011. The monk said that he was under threat by the Muslim villagers around the temple and claimed most of the land belonging to the temple had been taken over by them by force while our authorities looked the other way. He said that a few Muslim politicians had encouraged the people to take them over while using their power to keep police at bay. A very much similar thing happening in Wilpattu these days as we all know. He had received many death threats asking to leave the temple but stayed nevertheless. There was a police officer based at the temple 24/7 but nothing else had been done to reclaim the archaeological site or safeguard the ruins.

Apparently most of the rocky pillars and slabs were in the nearby houses being used for various things such as stepping stones. We in fact saw two such houses with at least four such items (one had two slabs whereas the other had two large pillars). They even had blocked the road by covering it completely with mats full of paddy and when asked the way, simply said that there was no such place in the area and asked us not to go beyond the mats. We then turned around to the town and got the directions from a cop who said that it was a common issue which they could do very little. Guess what, we went back and drove over the mats full of grains and arrived at the temple.

A similar thing has happened in Kadurugoda and the army has been posted to protect the place. Even that archaeological site had lost around half of its original landmass. How many more places like those are under threat and being destroyed as we speak. It’s a real pity that we can’t protect our heritage from extremists like these. They need to be punished regardless of the political influence, race or religion before it’s too late. Sinhalese, Tamils, Muslims and all the others have a duty to help protect our heritage coz they all are Sri Lankans. I guess the archaeological department needs to be given more manpower, equipment, authority and the security forces’ assistance to protect these kinda sites.

A Sincere Apology and Heartfelt Gratitude for the Dedicated Archeology Officers

Well, I admit that I had a very low opinion on the archeology department. Especially their inability to protect the archeological sites in the country. However recently, I’ve seen, met and talked to quite a few officials who are really dedicated to their duty. It’s a real sad thing to see how much they have to do with the bare minimum support. I guess it’s a miracle we have these archeological sites to go see considering how understaffed and poorly equipped they really are. So guys, I apologize to those who take their job seriously and give 100% to protect our heritage, sincerely for criticizing you. Hats off to the hard work you put in which goes unnoticed and unheard. Thanks a lot for every good thing you’ve done so far and hope you will continue the good work to the future.

Hopefully you’ll get recognized and be given substantially support, both financially and structurally, to strengthen your efforts. It’s the responsibility of the government to provide you with all you need and wonder if it ever happens though.

On our way back

On our way back

Looking majestic

Looking majestic

See the royal pose

See the royal pose

Well, see you again

Well, see you again

Well, folks, I know it’s turned out to be a very long article in the end and I poured my heart out.

Hope, you learned something from this and will visit this place at the first opportunity.

This is Sri signing off with a bow.

P.S. If you go there in the future, you might be able to pick up a leaflet with the details (given in the first picture) and a picture of the Samadhi Buddha from the archaeological office. I thought it’d be useful for the travelers, especially the school kids, to have something like that as a souvenir.

You’ll find the motto below printed at the bottom of the leaflet and I think we must teach children just that so that they’ll safeguard things like these which have been left by our proud ancestors.

“This is Our Heritage.

Let’s Protect it as Eyes & Cherish as Life”

VESAK AT TRINCOMALEE 2015

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days Four
Crew 2 (Me and my better half)
Guides Dayananda at Tiriyaya, Thushan(07767061701) at Kayyankerni
Accommodation Sea view hotel Nilaweli
Transport Pajero
Activities Culture, Road trip, Archaeology, photography, Boat rides, Wild life
Weather Cloudy but no rains
Route D1 Chilaw -> Wariyapola -> Mao -> Kekirawa -> Habarana -> Kanthale  ->  Trincomalee ->  Nilaweli

D2  Trincomalee -> Tiriyaya -> Pulmude -> Gomarankadawala -> Mora wewa -> Trincomalee

D3 Trincomalee -> Mutur -> Thoppur -> Seruwawila -> Lankapatuna -> Verugal -> Vakare -> Kayyankerni -> returned back the same route

D4 Trincomalee -> Sampur -> Trincomalee Naval base -> Horowpathana -> Anuradhapura -> Puttalama -> Chilaw

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take lots of water( we drank plenty of bottled water)
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • To Visit Hoods tower museum and have a boat ride in a bay you need prior permission from the Naval base(a known contact could speed up the process)
  • There are boats to reach Lankapatuna (200/= per boat) if you reach there from Echalampattu. Alternatively you could visit via Thoppur
  • Knowing tamil is an added advantage
  • There is a short cut from Welgam wehera to Nilaweli bordering the tank
  • Marble beach is open to public during 8am to 6pm
  • Need prior permission from the IOC office to visit the oil tanks which Japanese bombed (we got it on that day)
  • Boat ride to Pigeon island was 2000/= (DWC cost 700/=)
  • Avoid long holidays or you would get frustrated

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Amila for arranging permission to get in to the naval base and NG for the guidance around Tiriyaya

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

 Map Day 1 &  4

Map Day 1 & 4

Map day 2

Map day 2

Map day 3

Map day 3

Places of interest

  • Kanthale ancient Sorouwa
  • Welgam wehera
  • Thissa Hermitage – Anandakulam
  • Ruins around Wilankulama lake
  • Fort Frederick
  • Koneshwaram kovil
  • Dogs grave
  • Hoods tower museum
  • Boat ride in Trinco bay
  • Japanese bombed oil tanks(tank farm)
  • War cemetery (WW2)
  • Gokanna RMV
  • Kanniya hot water wells
  • Marble beach
  • Sampur – Foul point
  • Mahaweli river delta
  • Nilaweli beach
  • Pigeon island
  • Kuchchaweli Pichcha mal viharaya
  • Tiriyaya Nagathambarani carving
  • Tiriyaya Giri hadu seya
  • Arisimale beach
  • Kokilai lagoon
  • Bakmeegama – Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya
  • Bakmeegama Shiva kovil
  • Pahala gama Archeology site
  • Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri/Medawachchiya
  • Unknown site at Tri/Medawachchiya
  • Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda
  • Ran giri ulpotha
  • Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya
  • Mora wewa – Gajaba lena
  • Mora wewa
  • Mora wewa – Kituluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya
  • Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama
  • Seruwawila RMV
  • Pashana pabbatha RMV
  • Lankapatuna
  • Black beach
  • Ruins at Kathiraweli
  • Kathiraweli pre historic cemetery
  • Verugal kovil
  • Kayyankerni ancient rock bridge and ruins
  • 58th mile post Dhageba
  • 40th post Gal kanda mountain range ruins

It was Vesak holidays and i wanted to visit some temples just like i did in 2013. Though I have been to Trinco as a kid I have not properly explored this region. so after some intensive planning with the aid of online and offline literature i was all set for this 2015 Vesak expedition. We knew that this was going to be a tough one especially with the extreme heat but we were up to the task. The added advantage was that every budhdhist temple was decorated for Vesak and it was easy to locate. The disadvantage was that it was too crowded since it was a long holiday.

1 Kanthale Sorouwa

So we left early on and while on the way to Trinco we did have a stop at Kanthale to appreciate the ancient sorouwa right by the side of the road. Since this would be a long report I would stick to the basic details..

Kanthale ancient sorouwwa

Kanthale ancient sorouwwa

Kanthale reservoir

Kanthale reservoir

2 Welgam wehera

To reach this historical location we had to take a short cut from A6 to A12 and proceed towards Mora wewa side and take another right hand turn. This site dates back to 2nd century. The bo tree was once attacked by a mortar and the mortar bomb never explored.

 

Welgam wehera

Welgam wehera

a restored building

a restored building

the statue of budhdha

the statue of budhdha

guard stone

guard stone

the sthupa

the sthupa

dancers seen on the outer wall of the sthupa

dancers seen on the outer wall of the sthupa

the historical tree which captured the motor bomb

the historical tree which captured the motor bomb

3 Kanniya Hot water springs

While reaching back towards Trincomalee one could also visit Kanniya hot water wells and Archaeology reserve. For more info refer this link

4 Tissa hermitage Anandakulama

Just before reaching Trincomalee one would note a unique mountain range and this rocky range harbors some ancient caves. We took the road in front of the provincial educational office which connected to A6. This modified temple is at the end of the lake bund. There are about 3 drip ledge caves close to the current temple but finding those was a challenge.

Anandakulama mountain range

Anandakulama mountain range

statue on the rock

statue on the rock

Anandakulama

Anandakulama

cave at anandakulama thissa hermitage

cave at anandakulama thissa hermitage

another cave

another cave

5 Ruins around Vilankulama

From Anandakulama we returned back to A6 and headed towards 6th mile post where a board saying Vilankulama could be found. There was a pagoda right in front of it on the opposite side of the road and been covered by Teak trees. There was another site close to the bund of the lake and to get to it we had to cross the road side paddy field. The sight of a dug up pagoda just made us feel bad.

Vilankulama

Vilankulama

the pagoda which is dug up at Vilankulama lake

the pagoda which is dug up at Vilankulama lake

another pagoda on the opposit side of the main road. there are few teak trees on it

another pagoda on the opposit side of the main road. there are few teak trees on it

6 World War 2 cemetery

Since it was lunch time we decided to head back to Trinco and have lunch. After having lunch we had to ride towards Nilaweli because there were no beach side hotels to accommodate us. On our way we noted the War cemetery right on the side of B424, few Km’s from Trinco. There were many graves belonging to different nationalities. We had to please ourselves by looking over the gate since it was locked.

War cemetery

War cemetery

all who lost their lives

all who lost their lives

7 Tank farm

After a struggle we did manage to find a reasonable place at Nilaweli beach. Though the surrounding area was crowded it didn’t bother us a bit. After having a small nap we took off towards Trinco. At China bay with a huge bend there was the IOC office where I got permission to visit the Japanese bombed Oil storage tanks. There are about 100 plus tanks and out of these only a hand few is been used. The ride through the forest was very interesting indeed.

Japanese bombed few oil tanks during WW2

Japanese bombed few oil tanks during WW2

bombed tank

bombed tank

inside a tank

inside a tank

used currently by IOC

used currently by IOC

8 Fort Frederick

We returned back to Trinco and halted our vehicle close to the beach though we could have driven in to the fort. Our main intentions were to enjoy the scenery and architecture of the fort. So the walk towards Koneshwaram was the best option. It is nice to see that many buildings are still in good condition thanks to the military. By the way people need to stay away from the Deer who live freely in its premises.

Fort Fedrick

Fort Fedrick

entrance

entrance

plenty of these guys

plenty of these guys

ancient buildings

ancient buildings

9 Dog’s grave

There are few graves close to the car park at Koneshwaram and the interesting thing is some of these belong to dogs.

Dogs grave

Dogs grave

 zoomed

zoomed

10 Koneshwaram Kovil

This is thought to be built by Elara. It also has counter parts like Ketheeshwaram and Munneshwaram at the western coast. This been located on the cliff on Trincomalee has a splendid view point. Out of all lovers leap provides a greater v

Koneshwaram kovil

Koneshwaram kovil

a huge statue

a huge statue

sacred

sacred

expecting blessings

expecting blessings

the drop

the drop

lovers leap point

lovers leap point

11 Gokanna RMV

Just before exiting the fort one could note a temple on the right side with a wonderful view towards Back Bay. This is a historically important site. There were ruins of a statue and a Asanagaraya too. For me the wooden carving of the Budhdha was the most fascinating sculpture.
After enjoying a lovely sun set we took off towards Nilaweli and on our way we came across a vegetarian restaurant close to Sri Lakshmi Narana kovil. This place was called Sri Vari Balaji restaurant. And we did pay a visit on the next two nights too. We loved the food at that place.

Gokanna RMV

Gokanna RMV

statue with the asanagaraya

statue with the asanagaraya

 ruins

ruins

wooden statue

wooden statue

boats at fishing harbour

boats at fishing harbour

dusk

dusk

Day two was all about Tiriyaya – Gomarankadawala route. This was going to be along one and most of the places we visited weren’t even in our to-do list. After enjoying a lovely sun rise at Nilaweli we took off towards Kuchchaveli.

12 Pichcha mal viharaya Kuchchaveli

At Kuchchaveli close to the main road there is an interesting archeology site which everyone needs to visit. There are scattered ruins close to the police station and a small museum too. Main site is a small mountain close to the shore where a pagoda could be found on it. Right at the beginning of the stair way there is a fallen rock with a unique carving of 16 pagodas and an inscription.

room view at Nilaweli

room view at Nilaweli

wow

wow

here she comes

here she comes

lovely

lovely

and another beauty

and another beauty

on the way to Tiriyayaya

on the way to Tiriyayaya

Kuchchaweli historical site

Kuchchaweli historical site

view from the temple

view from the temple

silent shores

silent shores

the pagoda

the pagoda

very very unique

very very unique

these were found at this site

these were found at this site

13 Nagathambarani – Cobra head carving

Ah the number one attraction of the day. We headed towards Tiriyaya and stopped at 47/1 culvert in front of Dayananda’s house and after having a long chat we took off towards Valathamalay mountain (mountain is seen between 49km and 50km post). After a small climb we did come across the cobra carving. And it was a big wow for us. The adjoining cave had a rocky bed and a concaved carving on its roof so one could easily accommodate his head while meditating. For detailed information refer this report from NG. We left Dayanandas place after saying good bye to Him and his wife. We did promise to visit them in near future too.  (  8°53’30.35″N  80°59’52.57″E)

Valathamalay mountain

Valathamalay mountain

guiding us along the ancient pond

guiding us along the ancient pond

the cave and the carving

the cave and the carving

 the goddess??

the goddess??

what a beauty... ah yes this is in the deep forest

what a beauty… ah yes this is in the deep forest

lovely

lovely

governmant servants engaged in illegal sand mining at yan oya

government servants engaged in illegal sand mining at yan oya

kora kaha

kora kaha

Mangroves

Mangroves

Yan oya

Yan oya

14 Arisimale beach

Ah next we took off towards Pulmude and just before Pulmude we took a right turn and reached the navy camp where an archeology site could be found. After a 500m walk we reached this small bay called Arisimale where the sand looks like “samba” rice. My guess is that this unique geographical location must have caused to filter big sand particles in to this bay.

 ah here it is

ah here it is

At Arisimale beach

At Arisimale beach

just like samba rice

just like samba rice

small bay at arisimale with unique sand

small bay at arisimale with unique sand

close up

close up

15 Kokilai lagoon

From Pulmude we took the lagoon road and reached the fishing village to have a glimpse of Kokilai bird life.

Fishing village at Kokilai

Fishing village at Kokilai

bird life at Kokilai

bird life at Kokilai

where the lagoon opens up to the ocean

where the lagoon opens up to the ocean

at Kokilai

at Kokilai

16 Giri hadu seya

This Dhageba was built while Buddha was a live and his “Kesha dathu” is been preserved in this pagoda. This blessed Pagoda was done by Thapassu Balluka merchants. There were two caves, two inscriptions and yes a long rocky bridge. When we were at the summit it was close to 12pm and walking around the pagoda was more of a run. From Tiriyaya we took off towards Gomarankadawala.

Rock bridge at Giri hadu seya

Rock bridge at Giri hadu seya

lake at the rocky base

lake at the rocky base

right on the top

right on the top

main pagoda at giri hadu seya

main pagoda at giri hadu seya

framed

framed

lovely

lovely

the meaning of the main inscription

the meaning of the main inscription

 a cave at giri hadu seya

a cave at giri hadu seya

17 Kiulekada Shailabimbaramaya

From Tiriyaya it was a ride through a forest patch where Elephants roam around in the evenings. At the end of the forest we came across a temple on the right hand side. There were monoliths here and there, a broken statue and a blasted image house by terrorist.

pagoda at Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya

pagoda at Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya

these were blasted by terrorist

these were blasted by terrorist

ruins

ruins

18 Kiulekada Shiva Kovil

In front of the temple there is a road which will take one towards and archeology site. There is an old kovil which is been restored. Also one could find a huge Tamil inscription too.

Shiva kovil inscription Kivulekada

Shiva kovil inscription Kivulekada

 kovil in ruins

kovil in ruins

seems like a shiva devalaya

seems like a shiva devalaya

19 Pahalagama Archeology site

This site is also right on the side of the road and its few km’s from Kiulekada. There is a pagoda, bodhigaraya & image house which has been excavated.

Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

bodhigara at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

bodhigara at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

a statue

a statue

image house at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

image house at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

20 Surulumahamuniyawa RMV – Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few Km’s from Pahalagama site, one would come across a board to the right. After traveling 1km one could easily reach this temple. There are few restored buildings here. Those are the Bodhi garaya, sthupa, image house and another building. The monk at the temple was kind enough to treat us as he could. This site also is a must visit place.

ruins at Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri-Medawachchiya

ruins at Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri-Medawachchiya

more ruins

more ruins

 the pagoda

the pagoda

21 Unknown Archaeology site Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few km’s away from Trinco/Medawachchiya there is an archaeology site on the right hand side of the road. There are no houses around this point only a forest patch. We did come across two restored buildings at this site too.

Unknown Archeology site Trinco-Medawachchiya

Unknown Archaeology site Trinco-Medawachchiya

restored

restored

 another building

another building

22 Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda

One of the main archeology sites in the region. It is said that silver was mined at this point and taken to build Ruwanweli seya by King Dutugemunu. This is a huge archeology site with a museum. There are many caves scattered around the mountain range and one restored pagoda on it. The climb was a difficult one (because of the heat) but yet rewarding. There are few buildings and two pagodas at the base of it too. This is again a must visit place. To reach this place one needs to take the road behind the temple of Gomarankadawala.

Ridi kanda Archeolgy reserve

Ridi kanda Archeolgy reserve

twin sthupas

twin sthupas

 image house

image house

one of those caves

one of those caves

up we go

up we go

view from ridi kanda

view from ridi kanda

top of ridi kanda

top of ridi kanda

small museum at ridi kanda

small museum at ridi kanda

23 Gomarankadawala Rangiri ulpotha

This is another interesting archaeology site with a hot water spring. I have been to this site previously and for further information on it please read this.

24 Wilpalamkulama Daksinaramaya

While traveling towards Mora wewa passing Gomarankadawala one would come across this temple where an ancient rock pond, lake and few ruins could be found.

Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

the lake

the lake

ruins at Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

ruins at Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

25 Gajaba Lena – Mora wewa

Gajaba lena could be reached by taking the mora wewa lake road from the Mora wewa town. The temple is very well built but the caves are covered by tall mana bushes. So if you want to explore the caves be ready to scratch for few days.

Gajaba lena cave complex

Gajaba lena cave complex

kema

kema

more caves at gajaba hermitage

more caves at gajaba hermitage

a cave

a cave

26 Mora wewa

Mora Wewa Lake was 2km’s away from the temple and we did get permission from the Navy post to visit the lake. It’s not advisable to visit it during the evenings because there are elephants around the lake

mora wewa

mora wewa

 the bund

the bund

birds nesting at Pan kulam

birds nesting at Pan kulam

some pelicans

some pelicans

27 Mora wewa / Weppamkulam/ Kithuluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya

Though the name is a long one it’s a very small temple with few monoliths scattered around a bo tree and it’s found between mora wewa and Kanniya

From here we straight away headed towards Trinco and from there to Nilaweli to end one of the most hectic days in are traveling history. We did manage to visit many places but we were also dehydrated. The beach of Nilaweli was there to our rescue by washing away the tiredness of the day.

board at 162km post

board at 162km post

ruins

ruins

28 Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

On day 3 we headed towards Seru nuwara side. We took the Toppur route to Seru nuwara. While traveling to Seru nuwara we came across a name board directing to another Wilgam wehera. It was a 1km ride from the Seru nuwara road but it was well worth it. There was a huge pagoda with few “palu” trees on it. It was nice to see that there were few devotees observing sill for Vesak at this sit.

Sun rise at nilaweli

Sun rise at nilaweli

longest bridge - Kinniya bridge

longest bridge – Kinniya bridge

Wilgam wehera - Nelumgama

Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

close up

close up

29 Seruwawila RMV

One of the most sacred sthupas in the east and worshiped by many Buddhist pilgrims, this site was crowded on that day because it was Vesak. There were many buildings which were excavated and out of them the sthupa, Bodhigaraya & Pond stranded out. Though there was a museum it was closed on that day.

Kapruka pujawa at Seruwawila

Kapruka pujawa at Seruwawila

 majestic

majestic

entrance

entrance

lovely piece of archetecture

lovely piece of architecture

well carved

well carved

pond at seruwawila

pond at seruwawila

bodhigaraya

bodhigaraya

a mandapaya

a mandapaya

30 Pashana pabbatha RMV

From Seruwawila we reached A15 and from there we headed south until we came to the junction where a board directed us to the left. This road leads up to Lankapatuna and on the way we came across Pashana pabbatha temple. There were many buildings in ruins and on top of the rocky plateau with inscriptions there were remains of a sthupa. This sthupa was vandalized by terrorist and the Terrorist radio broadcasting tower which was built on it is still visible.

ruined pagoda at pashana pabbatha

ruined pagoda at pashana pabbatha

view from the top

view from the top

some shelter

some shelter

Terrorist transmission tower

Terrorist transmission tower

an inscription

an inscription

31 Lankapatuna RMV

It is believed that Princess Hemamala and Prince Dantha landed on the shores of Lankapatuna with the sacred Sri maha Bodhi plant many years ago. Now only few ruins could be found on the rocky peak. A new pagoda is built upon the old one. To reach this temple we had to hire a boat which could accommodate 9. They charge 180/= per trip. If you wish to reach it by vehicle it is advisable to take the Thoppur road.

waiting for a boat

waiting for a boat

pond at lankapatuna

pond at lankapatuna

sthupa at lankapatuna

sthupa at lankapatuna

the statue at Lankapatuna

the statue at Lankapatuna

seruwawila seen from lankapatuna

seruwawila seen from lankapatuna

the new brdige been build

the new brdige been build

32 Black beach

800m’s away from Lankapatuna and towards the north the beach is black in colour. We did have a small walk to have a look at this unique beach before heading back.

black beach

black beach

black it is

black it is

33 Verugal Kovila

This ancient kovil is located close to the Verugal aru and one could easily access this road side kovil

Verugal kovil

Verugal kovil

gods

gods

painted part

painted part

i love this one

i love this one

34 Pagoda at Kathiraweli

Close to 78/4 culvert and between Verugal and Kathiraweli there is a pagoda on a rocky range which is been blasted currently for rocks. It is sad to see and archeology site been vandalized like this. I guess this is a common practice in the east.

Kathiraweli pagoda near 78-4 culvert

Kathiraweli pagoda near 78-4 culvert

vandalized

vandalized

35 Pre historic grave yard at Kathiraweli

This site could be easily identified by the huge Pandol like entrance. There is isolated rock with two caves and few carved steps at this site.

Kathiraweli pre historic site

Kathiraweli pre historic site

drip ledged

drip ledged

steps towards heaven

steps towards heaven

36 Kayankerni Ancient stone bridge

Now this is something new and was my main target for the day. Information about this mysterious bridge was first published by Maritime Archeology unit few years back and since then I was seeking for this. It is said to be built across a narrow point of Kayankerni lagoon. The locals believe that this was used by a prince and princes to reach to their school. There is a small archeology site close to it and another huge site 2kms away from it. We were lucky that we had the chance to visit all of them. We reached the Kayankerni Bridge and inquired about this from the police post but they were not aware of it so they called a local boy who was the ideal guy. He straightway asked us weather it was the kings bridge which we seeked for and yes was the answer. So with him we headed north and drove off road towards the lagoon where people catch prawns. From there he took us on a small fishing boat. 5o meters away from where we started paddling were the stone bridge. The slabs which were on it has fallen in to the lagoon and few pillars were even been covered with mangroves. We were so happy that we were able to find this historically important place. After thanking Thushan we headed back towards Trinco (  7°58’45.73″N  81°30’19.29″E)

Kayankerni lagoon

Kayankerni lagoon

halted at the edge

halted at the edge

Kayyankerni stone bridge

Kayyankerni stone bridge

still standing tall

still standing tall

remaining pillars

remaining pillars

 ruin site close to the bridge

ruin site close to the bridge

 idi

idi

ruins found 1km away

ruins found 1km away

37 Fifty eight mile post dhageba(Aradhana seya)

On our way back we were treated well at few Dansals given by the forces and the police stations out of those the manyok dansal took care of our need for lunch. At the 58th mile post we came across a pagoda with a bo tree on it. The surrounding was very well maintained. There was a beautiful moon stone just like at Anuradhapura. From this pagoda it is easy to spot Seruwawila pagoda over the paddy fields. When we looked back there were few army officers looking at us with a smile on their faces. We were told that they restored the place and opened it on this vesak day and we must have been the first two curious pilgrims to visit and worship the place.

one of those dansel

one of those dansel

yummy

yummy

58th post dhageba

58th post dhageba

 what a beauty

what a beauty

38 Muttur Gal kanda ruins (40th mile post)

Close to the 40th mile post we came across a tall mountain range and there was a lion’s mouth at its base. We were bit curious so we went there and inquired. We were told that there are ruins on top of the mountain but it would be tough to climb since it was very hot. We decided to go ahead because there was a stairway to the summit. This was one of the best outlook points in Trinco.. We could easily see for miles and the bay of Koddiyar was seen clearly too. The main attraction was the pagoda on the summit. We were told that it is been restored in few days. I recommend climbing this hill so you could enjoy the scenery it provides.

Gal kanda range as seen from A15

Gal kanda range as seen from A15

Muttur galkanda ruins site stairway

Muttur galkanda ruins site stairway

what a view

what a view

endless scenery

endless scenery

towards koddiyar bay

towards koddiyar bay

pagoda on the summit

pagoda on the summit

39 Vesak at Trincomalee

After a small rest at Nilaweli we returned back to Trincomalee to enjoy some Vesak lanterns. There were many lanterns especially around the naval headquarters and the roads were packed with pilgrims who enjoyed the walk. This was indeed a unique Vesak night for us.

navy base lit up

navy base lit up

vesak lantern 1

vesak lantern 1

lovely isnt it?

lovely isnt it?

vesak lantern 2

vesak lantern 2

vesak lantern 3

vesak lantern 3

 lagoon of trinco on vesak day

lagoon of trinco on vesak day

40 Sampur – Attempt to visit foul point

On day 3 our main objective was to enjoy a sun rise at marble beach but we were told that its open only at 8am for the public. So we headed towards the fishing bay to enjoy the sun rise. After a brief stop at Mahaweli river estuary we did proceed towards Sampur. But after a difficult ride we were denied to go past one point since the road ran across a camp. So the attempt to reach foul point was not a success. But we did manage to enjoy the scenery towards the bay from the beach.

another sun rise

another sun rise

 halted

halted

and the owners

and the owners of the cycles

where Mahaweli river reaches the ocean

where Mahaweli river reaches the ocean

 Sampur beach

Sampur beach

close to Foul point at sampur

close to Foul point at sampur

view towards koneshwaram from sampur

view towards koneshwaram from sampur

Villu kulam

Villu kulam

wow loved this one

wow loved this one

41 Marble beach

When we reached Marble beach it was 8am and already there were 5/6 buses. We did walk around the beach just to feel the calm ocean waves and then decided to head back to Nilaweli.

marble beach entrance

marble beach entrance

very calm

very calm

 loved this place

loved this place

crystal clear

crystal clear

42 Pigeon Island

At Nilaweli we took a boat ride to Pigeon Island, though it was crowded we did manage to have a quick dip. We decided that we should come on another day to spend some time leisurely. So we returned back in half an hour.

on the way to pigeon island

on the way to pigeon island

pigeon island

pigeon island

pigeon island jr

pigeon island jr

 main land

main land

 welcome

welcome

 coral beach

coral beach

 the shore of the island

the shore of the island

wow

wow

calm and peaceful

calm and peaceful

marine life

marine life

43 Boat ride In Koddiyar bay

Thanks to Amila we had been granted permission to enter the naval base. For 20/= we were offered a boat ride. That boat ride was very educational and we did enjoy every second of it.

boat trip in the bay

boat trip in the bay

 coal ship

coal ship

prima factory

prima factory

Sober island

Sober island

anchored

anchored

another ship

another ship

44 Hoods tower museum

After the Boat ride we headed towards the Hoods tower museum where war artifacts recovered from the terrorist could be found. There was a scenic outlook post at this point too. The tour was an educational one but we had to rush quickly by skipping some sections. They did charge 50/= pp at the entrance.

Hoods tower museum

Hoods tower museum

mini subs

mini subs

sinker

sinker

parts of a boat

parts of a boat

view from the hoods tower

view from the hoods tower

the bay

the bay

ancient fort

ancient fort

bunkers used during WW2

bunkers used during WW2

close up

close up

 view towards the ocean

view towards the ocean

finaly a dansel to end the day

finally a dansel to end the day

Since it was 2pm we had lunch from Trincomalee and headed towards home sweet home to end one of the best planned Vesak holidays ever in our life. Though it seemed like we did things in a rush it wasn’t. It was just our normal pace when we go on trips. I’m happy I have a partner just like me otherwise I would have missed many places I visited during this visit. Hope this would be a good guide on Trincomalee if you have any queries just inquire… Thanks


Lost In the paradise of lagoons, islands and causeways

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Year and Month 31st Jan – 4th Feb 2014
Number of Days Five Day Trip
Crew 2 (Me & my wife, aged 32-34)
Accommodation Uthayan Rest – Jaffna
Transport It’s my Vitz
Activities Sightseeing, Scenic drive and Photography
Weather Excellent on the first four days. Gloomy and occasional drizzling on day 5
Route
  • Day 1: Maharagama -> E03 -> Puttalam -> Nochchiyagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Tantirimale -> Neriyakulam -> Medawachchiya -> Vavuniya -> Kilinochchi -> Jaffna
  • Day 2: Jaffna -> Kurikadduwan -> Nagadeepa -> Kurikadduwan -> Jaffna -> Ponnalai -> Karainager -> Ponnalai -> Jaffna
  • Day 3: Jaffna -> Kurikadduwan -> Jaffna -> Chunnakam -> Ponnlai -> Dambakola patuna -> KKS ->Chunnakam -> Thondamanaru -> Point pedro -> Manalkadu -> Kiramakodu -> Jaffna
  • Day 4: Jaffna -> Kurikadduwan -> Delft -> Kurikadduwan -> Jaffna -> Navatkuli -> Sangupiddy -> Navatkuli -> Jaffna
  • Day 5: Jaffna -> Kilinochchi -> Vavunya -> Medawachchiya -> Anuradhapura -> Puttalam -> E03 -> Maharagama
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Now there are plenty of boats from Kurikadduwan jetty to Nagadeepa. Although we were there during an extra long week end, no long queues for Nagadeepa were seen.
  • There are two boats operating free of charge to Delft, one at 8.30 a.m. and other at 9.30 a.m. They are large comfortable vessels and will take around 1 ¼ hours one way. Usually there are around 100 – 120 villagers to travel and after boarding them, navy will let other travellers in. If there are more crowds, they can get together and arrange private boats (Generally old large fishing boats like) where navy will make the contacts. A tour will cost around Rs. 18,000/- both ways and will take 1 ½ hours one way. One boat could take 100 – 120 passengers but there won’t be sufficient seating.
  • Boats to both Nagadeepa and Delft start from same jetty, Kurikadduwan. It has around 32km from Jaffna to Jetty.
  • Road from Jaffna to Kurikadduwan jetty is under widening and expect delays. It may take more than one hour for the journey.
  • If you are interested in archaeology, better to visit Jaffna fort first and learn about the archaeological monuments of north from the exhibition room of the fort.
  • It is prudent to arrange a transport mechanism in advance for Delft at least if you are visiting on holidays. We saw large crowds coming to the island and just wondering along the main street due to lack of a mode of transport. Our guide was Bimalan whose details are already available in the forum. He charged 1,500/- for the tour.
  • Delft has a special kind of a Light House of which details are given in another place of this report. This is located in the navy controlled area and hence our guide Bimalan does not show it. Worth giving it a try. Details of the attractions of delft are available in the waiting area of the jetty. Worth having a look at it before starting the journey. I saw it after finishing the journey and it was too late to realize that we have missed that lighthouse and a few more.
  • Distance from the jetty to Delft is roughly around 10km. Another 10km are there to Kachchativu. As I heard, there is a navy base and a church/shrine in the island. Visitors are allowed during the festival of the church only. As I heard, festival is during February or March.
  • To visit Fort Hammenheil, a navy contact is required if you are not staying in the resort. It will cost Rs. 18,000/- for a double room on full board basis. This is a resort run by the Malima Enterprises, attached to SL Navy.
  • There are two Casurina beaches in Karainager (of course spelled differently) marked in Google maps in the northern border and western border of the island. Proper one is the beach located in the northern border. The other one is not that large, isolated and should reach via isolated narrow sandy roads.
  • Road beyond Sangupiddy bridge towards poonaryn is under construction.
  • Please do not litter. Dispose waste properly. Help to keep the sites clean.
  • ** Special Thanks to **
    • Major Rangana Herath
    • Lt. Commander Dinesh Karunaratne
    • Lt. Commander in charge – Fort Hammenheil Resort
    • SL Navy Officer In Charge – KKD jetty
    • SL Navy officer Wickramaratne of KKD Jetty
    • All other SL Navy officers/other members who operated boats and helped us in many ways at the KKD jetty and Delft jetty.
    • My friend Mayooran Thyagarajah and his family for their great hospitality during our stay in Jaffna.
    • Lakdasun friends – Ashan, Niroshan, Kasun, Sri, Christy, Soysa and Madam Chandanie for their wonderful reports on Jaffna. Kindly accept my heart felt gratitude for taking time and effort to build up such a wealth of information for the benefit of others.
Author Hasitha KM
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

During the last few years, majority of my excursions were around the central hills where the cool climates and breathtaking scenery of the tea country made me irresistible. Having so much left to explore in the other regions of the country, especially in the northern half, I decided to break the shackles and witness the unmatched beauty of the lagoon paradise, Jaffna peninsula. It was the first day of the “extra long” first weekend of February and at 5.30 am two of us were in the car heading towards Puttalam for a 5 day tour to Jaffna, the longest so far!

While enjoying the beautiful sceneries and attractions on the way, our intention was to spend maximum possible time along causeways and lagoons to witness the beauty of the unique landscapes. Having a drive of 450km during the day, we had the breakfast stop at the beach park in Puttalam.

The lagoon of windmills

The lagoon of windmills

The giant of Noroccholai

The giant of Noroccholai

After the break we continued the journey along A12 towards Anuradhapura and turned left at Nochciyagama with the intention of having a drive through Oyamaduwa and Tantirimale as I have not been to this area before, and get to A14 at Neriyakulam.

However, we skipped visiting Tantirimale temple as there are plenty to see beyond Vavuniya and a long way to make during the day.

Drying Bada Iringu on Nochchiyagama – Oyamaduwa road

Drying Bada Iringu on Nochchiyagama – Oyamaduwa road

A Corn field

A Corn field

Ready to harvest

Ready to harvest

Oyamaduwa road is so scenic

Oyamaduwa road is so scenic

On the way

On the way

lovely

lovely

Greenary

Greenary

Another Yoda lipa? This is close to Tanthirimale

Another Yoda lipa? This is close to Tanthirimale

Scenery

Scenery

There were some bad stretches between Oyamaduwa and Neriyakulam where road has been washed away due to recent floods. But a car can cross through with careful driving.

Initially our plan was to use Neriyakulam – Vavuniya road but since it was in bad condition, we decided to take the road via Medawachchiya. Our stop for lunch was Kedella run by SL Army.

Kedella

Kedella

Restaurant

Restaurant

Restaurant and the hut

Restaurant and the hut

After fairly a long drive passing Vavuniya, we stopped at Kokavil war hero monument to pay our respect. An army officer is there to explain the tragedy happened in Kokavil.

Entering Vavuniya

Entering Vavuniya

Omanthai, Border of former LTTE controlled area

Omanthai, Border of former LTTE controlled area

Omantai Army barrier

Omantai Army barrier

Mankulam

Mankulam

Kokavil war hero monument

Kokavil war hero monument

Heart breaking story

Heart breaking story – Click Image to Enlarge

A9 at Kokavil

A9 at Kokavil

Our next attraction of the day was Iranamadu Tank. After turning right at Iranamadu junction, driving few kms straight will end up at Iranamadu Tank. There is a car park and a jana awanhala run by SL Army, near the tank.

Iranamadu junction

Iranamadu junction

Antique

Antique

Not a shrine

Not a shrine

Water purification facility

Water purification facility

The spill

The spill

Dam

Dam

The way of spilling water

The way of spilling water

Spill gates

Spill gates

History

History

Jana awanhala by SL Army

Jana awanhala by SL Army

Then we headed towards Kilinochchi town to see the blasted water tank. Kilinochchi town is well developed and further improvements were going on. After a short stop at the war monument, we continued towards Elephant pass.

A9 in Kilinochchi town

A9 in Kilinochchi town

Kilinochchi war hero monument

Kilinochchi war hero monument

Blasted water tank

Blasted water tank

Inside the column

Inside the column

The tank

The tank

Inside the tank

Inside the tank

Inside the tank

Inside the tank

Souvenir gallery in the premises

Souvenir gallery in the premises

The new comer

The new comer

At the time we visited Corporal Gamini Kularathne Memorial, It was evening and an army parade was going on in honor of him. We too paid our respect to him, Visited his souvenir gallery and continued towards Jaffna.

At the memorial of Corp. Gamini Kularatne

At the memorial of Corp. Gamini Kularatne

The monument receiving the respect of the Army

The monument receiving the respect of the Army

The bull dozer destroyed by Corp. Gamini Kularatne

The bull dozer destroyed by Corp. Gamini Kularatne

Jana awanhala at the monument

Jana awanhala at the monument

Brand new experience for many, Highway + Railway at Elephant Pass

Brand new experience for many, Highway + Railway at Elephant Pass

It was 7.30 pm when we reached Udayan Rest. Mr. Ravi, the owner warmly welcomed us and arranged our dinner. Room facilities were very basic but Mr. Ravi’s service was exceptional.

Our plan for the next day was to visit Nagadeepa and then Karainager. Although we could have visited both Nagadeepa and Delft on the same day, we planned them for two days as we wanted to spend more time close to the lagoons and causeways to enjoy the beauty. During the next three days, our plan was to spend all mornings and evenings along Kayts/Punkudutivu, Karainagar and Sangupiddy causeways of the lagoon paradise.

Since it was the beginning of an extra long week end, expecting a huge crowd in the jetty, we decided to set off early in the morning to avoid waste of time in queues. Leaving early means we have to look for breakfast on the way, which is not a very good idea. So, we had to satisfy with some Prima Stella noodle cups which can be instantly prepared with some hot water. At 5.45 am, we were heading towards Kurikadduwan (KKD) jetty along the Kytes causeway.

Dawn at the Kayts cause way

Dawn at the Kayts cause way

She is up

She is up

Morning show

Morning show

More

More

The causeway

The causeway

Morning paintings

Morning paintings

Unbelievable

Unbelievable

Seamless

Seamless

Typical Thal weta

Typical Thal weta

More creative this time

More creative this time

Natural park

Natural park

Unique landscapes

Unique landscapes

Whoa…

Whoa…

The causeway from Jaffna to Kytes was under construction and it was not so easy to tackle.

We were able to reach the jetty around 7.15 with amidst several stops to enjoy the morning scenery. To our surprise, there wasn’t a queue and the boat “Mani Nagaddepa” was loading passengers. Soon we got in and it was a 15 min ride to Nagadeepa jetty. There were several boats in operation and hence there were no long queues. A boat departed every 15-20 minutes from KKD jetty to Nagadeepa.

KKD Jetty. Public transport drop/collect passengers directly at the jetty. Other vehicles should be parked in the main land and passengers should walk to the jetty along the short causeway.

KKD Jetty. Public transport drop/collect passengers directly at the jetty. Other vehicles should be parked in the main land and passengers should walk to the jetty along the short causeway.

The boat we travelled to Nagadeepa

The boat we travelled to Nagadeepa

Halted Vada Tharakai II, the 8.30 vessel to Delft operated by RDA for free

Halted Vada Tharakai II, the 8.30 vessel to Delft operated by RDA for free

Entrance

Entrance

Serene

Serene

Image house

Image house

Paintings

Paintings

Beautiful

Beautiful

After visiting the temple we walked towards the Kovil along the main street of Nainativu. The jetty to take the return boat is located at the kovil.

Crossing over

Crossing over

Entrance to kovil

Entrance to kovil

Kovil

Kovil

Colorful

Colorful

Beautiful

Beautiful

A ferry moving away

A ferry moving away

Vehicles are taken back

Vehicles are taken back

It was around 12.00 noon when we came back to KKD jetty and it was the time to head towards Fort Hammenheil restaurant, Karainager, for lunch via Jaffna. On the way we had plenty of time to enjoy the unmatched beauty along the Kayts/Punkuduthuvu causeway.

Grassland with bushes

Grassland with bushes

Amazing landscapes created by sea weeds

Amazing landscapes created by sea weeds

The Icon

The Icon

Again the grassland

Again the grassland

Fence made up of Palmyra leaf stem

Fence made up of Palmyra leaf stem

Paddy in kytes with the icon in the back drop

Paddy in kytes with the icon in the back drop

Amazing landscapes

Amazing landscapes

Isso kotu

Isso kotu

Natural monochrome

Natural monochrome

Whistling ducks

Whistling ducks

Canopy missing in action

Canopy missing in action

Brahmini kite in the wind

Brahmini kite in the wind

More landscapes

More landscapes

Beauty

Beauty

Different

Different

The Lagoon

The Lagoon

Unlike the Kayts/Punkudutivu causeways, Karainager causeway was in very good condition and surrounding was more colourful.

Towards Ponnalai

Towards Ponnalai

Tobacco

Tobacco

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway

Hut in the lagoon. Similar to huts in the paddy fields of the South.

Hut in the lagoon. Similar to huts in the paddy fields of the South.

Lagoon more colourful

Lagoon more colourful

Closer look

Closer look

Fort Hammenheil Resort and Restaurant are located inside the Navy Base “Elara” of Karainager. Restaurant is located in the main land of Karainager and the Resort is located in a small island around 200m away from the main land. Anyone can walk in to the restaurant for meals or snacks. Prices are reasonable and food is great, especially their seafood dishes.

There are seven forts in northern part of Sri Lanka. They are Jaffna, Kytes, Fort Hammenheil, Delft, Punarin,  Mannar, and Arippu. Fort Hammenheil  had been used as a prison later. SL Navy has converted Fort Hammenheil to a luxury resort and it is managed under SL Navy Resort chain, Malima Enterprises. They have not modified the main structures of the fort but converted three upper floor rooms to luxury rooms. In addition, one prison room with seven beds has been modified and if somebody wants to get a prison experience, those beds can be reserved at Rs. 7,000 per person. As we had prior arrangements through a contact, we were able to visit this magical location.

Towards the Base

Towards the Base

SLNS Elara

SLNS Elara

Fort Hammenheil

Fort Hammenheil

Entrance

Entrance

This means “Welcome”. Guests who stay here will receive a colorful Navy welcome too

This means “Welcome”. Guests who stay here will receive a colorful Navy welcome too

Image showing how this fort was captured by English by destroying water tank

Image showing how this fort was captured by English by destroying water tank

Corridor at the entrance

Corridor at the entrance

Walls made up of coral rocks

Walls made up of coral rocks

Mr. Rohana Wijeweera had been kept here. These are said to be his writings

Mr. Rohana Wijeweera had been kept here. These are said to be his writings – Click Image to Enlarge

Another prison cell

Another prison cell

Luxury Prison cell. Before, these beds were just cement blocks. They are now surrounded by wood and placed matrasses to convert them to comfortable beds. Rs. 7,000/- per bed if you want to be a prisoner here for a night full board. Seven vacancies available.

Luxury Prison cell. Before, these beds were just cement blocks. They are now surrounded by wood and placed matrasses to convert them to comfortable beds. Rs. 7,000/- per bed if you want to be a prisoner here for a night full board. Seven vacancies available.

Prisoners belongings

Prisoners belongings

Courtyard

Courtyard

From the other end

From the other end

Modifications

Modifications

“Heads” means toilets

“Heads” means toilets

Garden – This is at a higher elevation than courtyard

Garden – This is at a higher elevation than courtyard

What a place to be

What a place to be

Watch hut in the rampart

Watch hut in the rampart

The jetty with a water jet

The jetty with a water jet

The deck to watch Sun rise

The deck to watch Sun rise

The view

The view

Restaurant as seen from FH

Restaurant as seen from FH

Restaurant

Restaurant

White sandy beach

White sandy beach

After relaxing a bit and taking some snaps at the restaurant premises, we headed towards Casurina beach to call it a day with the sun set.

Casurina Beach

Casurina Beach

Crowded in the evening

Crowded in the evening

Landscapes

Landscapes

Amazing sun set

Amazing sun set

Getting down slowly

Getting down slowly

Hiding behind

Hiding behind

She is up on the other side

She is up on the other side

Pinkish lagoon along the causeway

Pinkish lagoon along the causeway

End of the day

End of the day

Our plan for the third day was the visit to Delft. I too contacted Bimalan in advance for the tour. So, we repeated the previous day morning schedule and arrived at the KKD jetty at 7.15 am. Previous day we came to know that there are two boats in operation for Delft, one at 8.30 am and the other at 9.30 am, which depart from Delft at 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm respectively. Nagadeepa tours were in operation as usual and the Delft Maid, Wada Tharaki II was halted in the jetty which was supposed to depart at 8.30 am. There were only about 5 people in the jetty for Delft and there was no queue. Gate was closed and we were advised by a Navy officer to sit and wait in the nearby building until we are called up.

After about half an hour, crowds started coming in and in a matter of minutes the surrounding was jam packed with hundreds of holiday makers who were willing to step on Delft, yet there was no queue. To our disappointment, Navy informed that Wada Tharaki II will not be in operation due to some fault. Further, they informed that 9.30 boat is there but it can take only 120 passengers and there are around 100 villagers to travel usually where only 20 others will get a chance! We were among the first ten who arrived at the jetty but as the crowd was all over without a queue, who will guarantee that we will get in?

By the time crowds have grown bigger and were restless. Then Navy offered the crowds that they will make the contacts if groups are willing to go to Delft in private boats in batches of around 150, where cost will be around 18,000 for a tour. Some groups agreed and few private boats came to the jetty. They were old fishing boats and were not powerful. Estimated time to reach Delft was one and half hours. Once you get in, it is almost like trapped in because boat has a wooden roof and only small openings are there for ventilation. Other than being jam packed, noise of the engine is a headache and sometimes exhaust gas is leaking in making it very uncomfortable to stay. On top of that, most dangerous thing was that nobody had an idea as to how many people can be loaded and although life jackets were given, if something happens in the middle of the ocean, only those who stay close to windows can escape. I felt this as our return journey from Nagadeepa previous day was in such a boat. Though some groups offered to take us, we did not want to be in the sea for one and half hours taking such a risk and decided to return to Jaffna without wasting time and commence the “Day 4” schedule.

But next challenge was to inform this to Bimalan and move the appointment to the next day. Although he could understand Sinhalese and English to some extent, He never understood my “long story” and I either could not understand what he was asking. Finally the problem was solved with the help of a seller who speak both Sinhalese and Tamil, at the turn off to the jetty.

Soon we were on the roads of the Jaffna peninsula. We drove towards Puttur road along Palali road and first visited Nilavara bottomless well and then came back to Chunnakam to visit Kadurugoda temple. We did not forget to witness the road side beauty too.

By the road

By the road

Cultivations

Cultivations

Prosperous

Prosperous

Nilavara bottomless well

Nilavara bottomless well

Closer

Closer

Everything is there

Everything is there

More

More

Brand new setting for many

Brand new setting for many

Chunnakam

Chunnakam

Entrance to Kadurugoda temple. Navy had done a great job to develop these

Entrance to Kadurugoda temple. Navy had done a great job to develop these

The stupas

The stupas

Remaining foundations

Remaining foundations

Then our intention was to have a drive along the road bordering northern coastal line. So we got to Ponnalai at the junction where Karainager causeway starts and went towards Dambakola patuna. After visiting the temple and having some Beli mal from the Army café, we went to visit Keeramale Naguleswaran temple and the pond. Then we started going forward along the coastal road and it came to an end at the gate of Thal Sevana Holiday resort and Army base. Beyond that the road is closed and it is the high security zone. So we went back to Chunnakam and crossed over to Point Pedro road.

Towards Ponnalai fro Jaffna. Paddy fields up to horizon!

Towards Ponnalai fro Jaffna. Paddy fields up to horizon!

Iconic

Iconic

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway at the distance

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway at the distance

Dambakola Patuna Sangamitta temple

Dambakola Patuna Sangamitta temple

Newly built

Newly built

The replica

The replica

Beautiful Dambakola Patuna beach

Beautiful Dambakola Patuna beach

The Sea

The Sea

The shop

The shop

Facilities for visitors to have lunch with a rest

Facilities for visitors to have lunch with a rest

Dambakola Patuna Vishrama shalawa. Accomodation facilities available but forgot to collect booking details

Dambakola Patuna Vishrama shalawa. Accomodation facilities available but forgot to collect booking details

Entrance to Naguleswaram Kovil. Premises is under renovation.

Entrance to Naguleswaram Kovil. Premises is under renovation.

The Five main Shiva Kovils around the coastal line. Naguleshwaram lies in the northern edge. (Source: internet)

The Five main Shiva Kovils around the coastal line. Naguleshwaram lies in the northern edge. (Source: internet)

Keeramale pond

Keeramale pond

They are coloured now

They are coloured now

They too are coloured

They too are coloured

KKS cement factory zoomed. Passing this, our journey along that road ended at Thalsevana

KKS cement factory zoomed. Passing this, our journey along that road ended at Thalsevana

From there we reached Thondamanaru to visit Selvasannadi Kovil. After spending some time in the kovil and enjoying the surrounding we went towards Point Pedro to see the northern most point of Sri Lanka and Point Pedro light house.

At the attempt to cross over to Point Pedro road. Carpeted road ended nowhere

At the attempt to cross over to Point Pedro road. Carpeted road ended nowhere

Grapes farm

Grapes farm

No fruits

No fruits

Sign boards

Sign boards

Selva sannadi shrine where Kataragama pada yathra starts from

Selva sannadi shrine where Kataragama pada yathra starts from

Inside

Inside

Shrine

Shrine

Thondamanaru anicut

Thondamanaru anicut

Thondamanaru meeting the sea

Thondamanaru meeting the sea

Valvettithurai

Valvettithurai

Halted

Halted

Coral beach

Coral beach

Coastal road along the northern shore

Coastal road along the northern shore

Northern tip of Sri Lanka

Northern tip of Sri Lanka

Point Pedro jetty

Point Pedro jetty

Harbour. Parents and offspring

Harbour. Parents and offspring

Karawala

Karawala

Base of the lighthouse. Tsunami water level marked.

Base of the lighthouse. Tsunami water level marked.

The giant

The giant

Not safe to climb up

Not safe to climb up

The lamp

The lamp

After the light house, the road curved into the main land and it was the end of our coastal ride. Then we were in search of the Manalkadu sand dunes and the remaining of the Dutch church. After several inquiries we got to the junction where we turned left and went for another few kms to reach the sand dunes and Dutch church.

End of the show along the shore

End of the show along the shore

At the junction to Manalkadu. Note the 9th Milepost at middle right hand corner

At the junction to Manalkadu. Note the 9th Milepost at middle right hand corner

Sand dunes and Cyprus forest

Sand dunes and Cyprus forest

Sand dunes

Sand dunes

Endless

Endless

Ruined Manalkadu Dutch church

Ruined Manalkadu Dutch church

Inside

Inside

Made up of coral rocks

Made up of coral rocks

Sand art

Sand art

After witnessing the sun set at Manalkadu, it was the time to call it a day. On this day we had an invitation from a good friend of mine in Jaffna for dinner and we were there around 8.30 pm. After spending few hours of enjoyable time with his family, we came back to Uthayan rest dreaming of the second phase of the Delft tour next day.

Fire ball falling down

Fire ball falling down

Sun set over sand dunes

Sun set over sand dunes

As usual, morning course of the previous two days  was repeated on the fourth day morning too and we were on the jetty at 7.00 am being the first visitors for Delft. Wada Tharaki was still not well and only 9.30 boat “Kumudini” was available. Although we had a Navy contact, previous day we tried the tour without troubling him. But today too it was clear that same process is going to be repeated and we did not want to go in those old private boats.  As we were the first Delft travelers to arrive at the jetty, ideally we must be the first to get in to 9.30 boat after the villagers. But as there was no queue, there was no guarantee that we would get that chance. Previous day too Navy officers at the jetty were trying hard to help the crowd to get to Delft where they were too busy and being just a couple we could have lost their attention easily.  I decided to call our Navy friend and requested to secure the first chance to get in to 9.30 boat after villagers, which we deserved. He arranged it over the phone and we could stay in Navy officers rest room until the boat is ready. Surprisingly at that time our friend had been participating to some religious ceremony in Nagadeepa and on his way back we could meet him too.

It was around 8.30 and we heard some Navy officers were whispering that sea is rough. We felt shocked because boats may not operate when sea is rough. Time passed by and while we were waiting, another group came to the jetty for some official visit to Delft and there were two Navy water jets ready for them. Because of our friend, Navy officers in the jetty arranged to take us too with them in a water jet. We were surprised and excited about the lifetime ride we are going to get and got into a jet.

We were advised to pack cameras and bags and keep them inside the cabin as they could be blown out or water may splash on them. While some ladies got into the cabin and some gentlemen were standing holding the iron bars around the cabin, we sat on the base of the machine gun fixed at the back and did hold the gun tight.

It was one hell of a ride! The water jet was travelling like an arrow at a speed of 30 knots and was cutting through the waves of the rough sea, splashing water all over us. Even the lips and skin of the face were blowing away. Eyes were burning due to salt water. Time to time we had spit out salt water as it has gone inside the mouth too. We could not do anything other than holding onto the gun tight. We were at the Delft jetty within just 15 minutes!

Following our call, Bimalan appeared at the jetty and we were on the way with him witnessing the beauty of Delft. The island is 8km in length and 6km in width with a population of 6000. The land is mostly made up of coral rock and huge grasslands with white corals everywhere was a unique sight. Bimalan took us around the island showing the unique attractions one by one.

Just as you step in to the island from jetty

Just as you step in to the island from jetty

Landscapes

Landscapes

Sandy roads instead of gravel roads

Sandy roads instead of gravel roads

Biobab tree

Biobab tree

This is native to Africa, brought here by Arabic sailors and planted where they have stationed in order to feed camels. This had been used as a medicinal plant for horses too

This is native to Africa, brought here by Arabic sailors and planted where they have stationed in order to feed camels. This had been used as a medicinal plant for horses too

Huge trunk with the hole

Huge trunk with the hole

Inside the hole

Inside the hole

Iconic rock fences

Iconic rock fences

Made up of coral rock

Made up of coral rock

Land block perfectly demarcated by a rock fence

Land block perfectly demarcated by a rock fence

Growing stone

Growing stone

Growth

Growth

Pigeon holes. Dutch people had used this to house pigeons who take messages to Jaffna. Message was tied to a leg of the pigeon and it had been trained to deliver the message and return to the same hole.

Pigeon holes. Dutch people had used this to house pigeons who take messages to Jaffna. Message was tied to a leg of the pigeon and it had been trained to deliver the message and return to the same hole.

70 Holes for pigeons

70 Holes for pigeons

English court house

English court house

The symbol

The symbol

Pigeon house and court house

Pigeon house and court house

Old Dutch hospital

Old Dutch hospital

Courtyard

Courtyard

Delft hospital. Have to go through the hospital to reach the fort

Delft hospital. Have to go through the hospital to reach the fort

Through the hospital

Through the hospital

Delft Dutch fort. This has two floors. There are five rooms in the ground floor and they do not have windows unlike the upper floor rooms. They had been used to keep prisoners, ammunition etc.

Delft Dutch fort. This has two floors. There are five rooms in the ground floor and they do not have windows unlike the upper floor rooms. They had been used to keep prisoners, ammunition etc.

A room in the ground floor

A room in the ground floor

Watch hut

Watch hut

The tank

The tank

Coral land

Coral land

Picturesque

Picturesque

Wild horses, the signature of Delft. Portugese had bought horses here for their travelling. Dutch people had used this island to breed horses and sell them to ships. After their departure, those horses freely bred in the island giving life to a generation of wild horses.

Wild horses, the signature of Delft. Portugese had bought horses here for their travelling. Dutch people had used this island to breed horses and sell them to ships. After their departure, those horses freely bred in the island giving life to a generation of wild horses.

Family?

Family?

Freedom

Freedom

Anxious

Anxious

Beautiful coral beach

Beautiful coral beach

Drinking water wells which supply water to whole island. This part of the island contains quality fresh water.

Drinking water wells which supply water to whole island. This part of the island contains quality fresh water.

Giants’ foot print

Giants’ foot print

Land is like a rough cement floor

Land is like a rough cement floor

Horse stable. Dutch had used the island to breed and sell horses to ships. This stable had been used to keep horses prepared for selling.

Horse stable. Dutch had used the island to breed and sell horses to ships. This stable had been used to keep horses prepared for selling.

It is 100m long

It is 100m long

BOC serving the remote community

BOC serving the remote community

CEB depot

CEB depot

Mahindodaya laboratory has not forgotten Delft school too

Mahindodaya laboratory has not forgotten Delft school too

Pradeshiya sabha

Pradeshiya sabha

Brand new DS office

Brand new DS office

Post office

Post office

Halted at Delft jetty

Halted at Delft jetty

Illegal Tamil Nadu fishing boat seized

Illegal Tamil Nadu fishing boat seized

The Water Jets we came

The Water Jets we came

There is a Navy controlled area in the island and there is a unique light house constructed during Dutch period, which we missed. A picture of this light house is available in the passage at the entrance. At the night, a fire is set inside the base of the lighthouse using firewood and the fire comes out of the chimney. After the fire, smoke comes out of the chimney during day time. That is how it has signaled the ships sailing in its vicinity. Bimalan was not willing to go to Navy controlled area and therefore this lighthouse is not in his list. So he did not take us there and did not speak a word about it either. We too did not notice it until we got to the jetty otherwise we could have given it a try.

The light house as displayed at the jetty

The light house as displayed at the jetty

After two hours we could complete seeing Delft (Except the stupa which we purposely skipped due to limitation of time as we had to come in time for the return jet ride) and we were at the jetty, ready for the ride back. We could see large crowds around the jetty who have arrived in private boats and just wondering around the main street as there were no mode of transport available for them inside the island. So it is always prudent to make some prior arrangements for ground transport before visiting Delft.

Sea was even more vicious on our return journey. We too had to stand and hold on to the iron bars fixed around the cabin. Waves were so big that water was splashing even above our heads. We were totally wet just as good as a quick sea bath. It took 20 minutes for the return journey as the sea was rough.

After paying our gratitude to the Navy officers at the jetty and who operated the jets, we came to Jaffna town.

On the way we did not forget to pay a visit to the memorial of Lt. Gen. Denzil Kobbekaduwa, Maj. Gen. Wijaya Wimalaratne and other heroes at araly point.

Unbelievably beautiful  and unique landscapes

Unbelievably beautiful and unique landscapes

Could not resist

Could not resist

Directions

Directions

The monument. This is not the exact place where bomb was blasted. It is around 3km away

The monument. This is not the exact place where bomb was blasted. It is around 3km away

Vehicles used to simulate the blast at the investigations to find whether bomb was in the ground or fixed to the vehicle. But evidence were not sufficient to come to a conclusion

Vehicles used to simulate the blast at the investigations to find whether bomb was in the ground or fixed to the vehicle. But evidence were not sufficient to come to a conclusion

After having a change at Uthayan rest to utilize the saved extra time to visit some places around the city close to the fort.

Then we went along Point Pedro road towards King Sankili statue. Passing it and going forward for about another 100-200m, Rajamanthri walawwa can be seen by the road to the left. Sankili arch too can be seen by the road on the opposite side.

Jaffna clock tower

Jaffna clock tower

Glory

Glory

Jaffna library

Jaffna library

Hospital street, Jaffna. Parking available in the middle.

Hospital street, Jaffna. Parking available in the middle.

King Sankili statue

King Sankili statue

Sankili arch

Sankili arch

Architecture

Architecture

Rajamanthri walawwa, residence of the first minister of king Sankili. English rulers have done some modifications and placed a note above the entrance

Rajamanthri walawwa, residence of the first minister of king Sankili. English rulers have done some modifications and placed a note above the entrance

Living area

Living area

Decorated with wood carvings

Decorated with wood carvings

Artistic

Artistic

Then it was time for another evening at the third causeway which is at Sangupiddy on the Mannar road via Poonaryn.

Sign of prosperity

Sign of prosperity

Almost hitting the horizon

Almost hitting the horizon

On to the causeway

On to the causeway

Closer to Sangupiddy bridge

Closer to Sangupiddy bridge

The bridge. Enough space for boats to cross

The bridge. Enough space for boats to cross

What a wonderful place to be

What a wonderful place to be

Road towards Poonaryn is under construction

Road towards Poonaryn is under construction

Starting the show

Starting the show

Painted sky

Painted sky

Modern Sri Lanka

Modern Sri Lanka

After having an unforgettable day, we had a nice dinner at Malayan café (Located near mini bus stand) and completed it with Rio ice cream.

Did not forget to taste

Did not forget to taste

Next day, which was the final day we had to return to Colombo but some key places were still remaining including the Jaffna fort. Although meals are not prepared at Uthayan rest, they arrange meals on our request and those were very tasty. Their usual time for breakfast was 8.30 but on our request the time was advanced to 7.30. (One good thing about Uthayan rest is that the owner Mr. Ravi arranges everything we request sharp on time from the bed tea. There were no delays on his part). Yet we decided to pay a visit to fort around 6.30 and come back for breakfast.

Jaffna fort is a massive pentagon of which one side is protected facing the sea and other sides are protected by two ramparts and a moat in between. It is the second largest fort in Sri Lanka where Gall fort stands on top. Dutch rulers used forts for protection. Hence there are stores of weapons and ammunition, food stores and prisons.

The Dutch church in Jaffna fort had been in very good condition until recent past but war has reduced it to a heap of rubble. English rulers did not have that much of a security threat. So they used these forts as administrative complexes. Therefore even today, administrative buildings are still located inside such forts i.e. Galle and Matara forts. English rulers have modified existing or built new buildings to suit their purposes.

There is a Queens house too inside the fort which has had facilities of a five star hotel where former prime ministers used to stay. But it has been ruined by the war and Army is using a small undestroyed portion of it.

There is an exhibition room at the entrance. There is an officer from Dept. of Archaeology who will explain the historical factors.

Plan of the fort. It is a star shaped pentagon with five bastions at the corners. They have named bastions as 1. Friesland, 2. Utrecht, 3. Gelderland, 4. Holland and 5. Zeeland. One side facing lagoon and the other four sides protected by outer rampart, moat and inner rampart. Extent is 56 acres.

Plan of the fort. It is a star shaped pentagon with five bastions at the corners. They have named bastions as 1. Friesland, 2. Utrecht, 3. Gelderland, 4. Holland and 5. Zeeland. One side facing lagoon and the other four sides protected by outer rampart, moat and inner rampart. Extent is 56 acres.

Story of the fort

Story of the fort

Entrance

Entrance

Made up of Coral rock and limestone

Made up of Coral rock and limestone

Crossing the moat

Crossing the moat

Through the rampart

Through the rampart

Dutch have used even stone door frames of kovils and shrines to construct this as they wanted to destroy Hinduism

Dutch have used even stone door frames of kovils and shrines to construct this as they wanted to destroy Hinduism

Exhibition room of the fort. Wealth of knowledge of archaeology in north

Exhibition room of the fort. Wealth of knowledge of archaeology in north

Two ramparts and moat. One side bordering lagoon

Two ramparts and moat. One side bordering lagoon

Tower on one of the five corner bastions

Tower on one of the five corner bastions

A store room

A store room

Stores located around the rampart

Stores located around the rampart

More stores

More stores

Dutch church

Dutch church

Prison

Prison

Queens house

Queens house

Mass grave of 300 Army soldiers who lost their lives in the battle at Jaffna fort

Mass grave of 300 Army soldiers who lost their lives in the battle at Jaffna fort

Then we went back to Uthayan and had breakfast. Then after loading our baggages and bidding farewell to Mr. Ravi we continued the city tour. First we visited Nallur Kovil and then Jaffna railway station which looks so fantastic.

Nallur Kovil

Nallur Kovil

Giant wall

Giant wall

Jaffna railway

Jaffna railway

Travelling never been this easy

Travelling never been this easy

Halted

Halted

Clean and beautiful

Clean and beautiful

Active

Active

Gifted by BOC

Gifted by BOC

Then we witnessed some ancient buildings belonging to Dutch and English periods on the way. Then it was time to say good bye to Jaffna. Soon we were on the return journey with awesome memories of colorful Sri Lanka.

Unique architecture. Unfortunately I cannot recall what it is.

Unique architecture. Unfortunately I cannot recall what it is.

Burned Kachcheri building of Jaffna

Burned Kachcheri building of Jaffna

Huge building destroyed

Huge building destroyed

Great architecture in ruins

Great architecture in ruins

On the way, a brand new station

On the way, a brand new station

Colombo is few hours away

Colombo is few hours away

Highway/Bus + Railway/Train

Highway/Bus + Railway/Train

On the way

On the way

Good bye Jaffna

Good bye Jaffna

The end of an awesome journey

The end of an awesome journey

 

Loitering around Thanthirimale

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Year and Month January, 2015
Number of Days One
Crew 2 (Me and my better half)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Pajero
Activities Archaeology / History  / Scenery / Photography
Weather Clear sky
Route Chilaw -> Mundalama -> Puttalama -> Nochchiyagama -> Oya madu -> Thantirimale -> Billewa -> Pemaduwa -> Mahavilachchiya -> Navodagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Nochchiyagama -> B564 -> Rajanganaya -> Galgamuwa -> Nikaweratiya -> Chilaw
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Oyamaduwa road up to Thantirimale is good, the carpet from there onwards up to Cheddikulam is full of potholes
  • Currently there are archeology boards directing towards all of these sites
  • Avoid early hours and late evenings, there are wild elephants roaming around
  • Ask directions from locals
Related Resources  Wikipedia
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Places of interest

  • Thanthirimale Archeology reserve
  • Bharathanaga lena
  • Pemaduwa arche site
  • Navodagama temple
  • Oya maduwa arche site
  • Mahavilachchiya lake
  • Rajanganaya tank
  • Hatthikuchchi arche site

Map around Thantirimale - click to enlarge

Map around Thantirimale – click to enlarge

Map around Rajanganaya - click to enlarge

Map around Rajanganaya – click to enlarge

When we visited Mannar in 2014 we took the route through Thantirimale and on our way we did note many Black archaeology boards. Since we skipped on Thantirimale during that visit we thought of loitering around Oyamaduwa while the north east monsoons were ending its all island havoc. We knew that Thantirmale was a huge site with an endless rocky plateau so we left home very early and reached Thantirimale at around 6.40am.

Thanthirimale Archaeology reserve
For almost two hours both of us walked around ticking off the list of places of interest in this reserve and we did enjoy this very much because it was early in the morning. Main attractions were the Pagoda, Two Buddha statues, ancient Bo tree, Ruins of ancient buildings, Padanagara, Poth gula, Cave with pre historic paintings, Ponds and the Archaeology museum. There are very well marked direction boards everywhere but yet we missed the rock inscriptions. By the way one should keep away from the rocky ponds because there are Crocodiles in some.
Quote
This temple, which was built in the third century BC has a historical value. When the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi was brought from India to Sri Lanka, one night along the way to Anuradhapura, the pot containing the sapling was kept at Thanthirimale. It is believed that there was one branch separately grew from the pot, was planted at that village to remember the incident. Hence, some believe that this may be the first Sri Maha Bhodi plant in Sri Lanka. The Bo Tree is placed on top of large stony layer which may protect the tree up to now.

misty oya maduwa

misty oya maduwa

End of the monsoon is the begining of the dry season and misty morning is the curtain between both

End of the monsoon is the beginning of the dry season and misty morning is the curtain between both

handy map

handy map – click to enlarge

beware these guys are found at Thantirimale

beware these guys are found at Thantirimale

just blossemed

just blossomed

more boards

more boards

sister bo tree of Sri maha bodhiya

sister bo tree of Sri maha bodhiya

gloomy morning

gloomy morning

a snake?

a snake?

wow

wow

 mastercraft

master craft

ප්‍රධාන සඟරාමය

ප්‍රධාන සඟරාමය

Nelum pokuna

Nelum pokuna

පොත් ගුල

පොත් ගුල

පදානගර

පදානගර

lovely

lovely

 pagoda

pagoda

ah searching for the sun to warm up his fur

ah searching for the sun to warm up his fur

lovely path

lovely path

cave with paintings

cave with paintings

cave paintings at tantirimale

cave paintings at tantirimale

oposit side of the cave has plenty more

opposite side of the cave has plenty more

yes there were many

yes there were many

lovely scenery

lovely scenery

dont forget to climb the rock near the cave which gives some superb views

dont forget to climb the rock near the cave which gives some superb views

Grey-bellied cuckoo

Grey-bellied cuckoo

 drip ledge

drip ledge

close up

close up

 another masterpiece

another masterpiece

restored

restored

endless landscape

endless landscape

lake near Thantirimale

lake near Thantirimale

Billawa/Millawa Bharathanaga lena
From Thantirimale we started returning back on the same road and few Km’s from Thantirimale we came across a name board to the left directing towards Bharathanaga lena. After a 2Km 4wd ride we reached the hermitage. This place is well developed and there were CSD guys for protection too. There are many caves at this site with inscriptions. In one cave we did find some interesting Vedda paintings too.

new direction boards

new direction boards

this way please

this way please

one out of many

one out of many

with inscriptions

with inscriptions

cave paintings

cave paintings

and another

and another

another cave

another cave

interesting hooded cave

interesting hooded cave

view from the rock

view from the rock

end of a dance

end of a dance

i do love these

i do love these

on the way to Pemaduwa

on the way to Pemaduwa

Pemaduwa RMV

After visiting the Billawa site we took off along Oyamaduwa road and at one point there was a board directing towards Pemaduwa. After traveling 5Km’s we reached an ancient temple at a 3 way junction. There was a restored image house and a broken statue at this site.

image house

image house

 fallen

fallen

done with quartz

done with quartz

 bo tree

bo tree

a guard stone

a guard stone

drainage rock

drainage rock

Mahavilachchiya tank

1Km way from Vilachchiya town there is one of those giant tanks of ancient Anuradhapura. This was initially done by Prince Saliya and restored in 1955. It’s an enormous reservoir and the small detour to visit it was well worth it.

specs of mahavilachchiya

specs of mahavilachchiya

massive resorvoir

massive reservoir

done by prince Saliya

done by prince Saliya

had to feel the water

had to feel the water

a resort close to the lake

a resort close to the lake

Navodagama RMV
From Vilachchiya we returned back to the Oya maduwa road (we also could have taken the straight road from Vilachchiya to Oyamaduwa but we did skip it). After reaching the Thantirimale road we started returning back until we came across another black board. There was a temple right by the side of the road. There were ruins of a Tempiti viharaya, Pagoda and etc. The temple is in very poor state and the only monk is having a hard time to even stay there.

pagoda at navodagama

pagoda at navodagama

 flower alter

flower alter

old tempiti viharaya

old tempiti viharaya

ruins near the bo tree

ruins near the bo tree

desperate

desperate

Oyamaduwa Archaeology site

Few hundred meters before Oyamaduwa junction there was another site. At this location ruins of a Tempiti viharaya and a pagoda could be found

oyamaduwa pagoda

oyamaduwa pagoda

another tempiti viharaya

another tempiti viharaya

Rajanganaya Tank

It was 11am and we had visited all those sites which we came to see so we had to expand our plans. So we decided to head towards Rajanganaya. After traveling along very bad roads we reached Rajanganaya lake. At that moment it was filled up to the brim. There was a small rocky hill with ancient steps at the edge of the dam and we did climb it to have a bird’s eye view of this masterpiece. On top of it there was a huge pagoda which has been vandalized by many.

Angamuwa tank

Angamuwa tank

bund of angamuwa

bund of angamuwa

Rajanganaya tank

Rajanganaya tank

livlihood

livelihood

sliding down

sliding down

spilling

spilling

steps towards the sthupa

steps towards the sthupa

the bund

the bund

ancient pagoda

ancient pagoda

 the view

the view

fish eagle

fish eagle

පැල

පැල

Hatthikuchchi Archaeology reserve

From Rajanganaya we took the Mahagalkadawala Rd. few Km’s before Mahagalkadawala there was a right hand turn towards Hatthikuchchi. This extensive forest hermitage is one of those sites that you shouldn’t miss in your life time. There is lot to see and the paths seem never-ending. You would be surprised with the dry zone bird life found here too. This hermitage has been modified over the years by many kings and it’s believed that King Siri Sangabo beheaded himself at one of those caves on the hill top. Main attractions are the 40 caves, Poya house, Prathimagaraya, Bodhigaraya, Watadageya and many more ruins. We did manage to get to the top of the hill though it was bit exhausting. After a long walk we did end our day and returned back to Chilaw with some lovely memories.

Quote

The name ‘Hatthikuchchi’ (හත්ථිකුච්චි in Sinhalese) is a pali word meaning ‘Elephant Stomach’ (Hasthi – Elephant, Kuchchi – Stomach). Its closest Sinhalese name is ‘ඇත්කුස් වෙහෙර‘ ‘Eth Kus wehera’ (Eth – Elephant, Kus – Stomach). This name has been given because of a large rock inside the temple complex which resembles an elephant. The Temple complex is considered to have been built by King Devanampiyatissa (307–267 BC) and one of the oldest Buddhist temple complexes in the country. Later for various reasons this complex was forgotten and by the time of king Sirisangabo this was covered with jungle. It has been taken into consideration that this was the location where King Sirisangabo (251–253 AD) offered his own head to a peasant. 

landscape

landscape

mini lakes at Hatthikuchchi

mini lakes at Hatthikuchchi

 entering the complex

entering the complex

belonging to anuradhapura era

belonging to anuradhapura era

image house

image house

lotus carving

lotus carving

quartz moonstone

quartz moonstone

 there were 50 inscriptions on this rock

there were 50 inscriptions on this rock

Indian pitta wasted 30 minutes of my time

Indian pitta wasted 30 minutes of my time

lovely

lovely

 image house

image house

 its statue

its statue

Where king siri sangabo decapitated him self

Where king siri sangabo decapitated him self

view from the top rock

view from the top rock

nearby lake

nearby lake

what a view

what a view

 the pond on top of the rock

the pond on top of the rock

exiting the complex

exiting the complex

another pond

another pond

Nikeweratiya lake

Nikeweratiya lake

The Hat-Trick of Climbing: Kirigalpoththa & Many Others…

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Year and Month 11-14 Apr, 2015
Number of Days 4
Crew Ana, Fritz, Dr. Deepani and Me
Accommodation The Cottage, Rozella
Transport By SUV and on foot.
Activities Hiking, Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Relaxation, etc…
Weather Excellent in the morning up to early afternoon and heavy rains that lasted about couple of hours in the late afternoon and evening.
Route Day 01

Malabe->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Kalugala->Hangarapitiya->Koththellena->Norton Bridge->Watawala->Rozella.

Day 02

Rozella->Horton Plains and back to Rozella.

Day 03

Rozella->Watawala->Norton Bridge->Kalaweldeniya->Dick Oya->Hatton->Rozella.

Day 04

Rozella->Colombo.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • The Road from Kalugala and Koththellena via Polpitiya and Hangarapitiya is terrible and avoid by all means if you travel in a car or a similar vehicle.
    • Alternatively, you could take the Norton Bridge Road and circle back to Koththellena.
    • Check on the weather before the journey.
    • You can compare this with my previous Kirigalpoththa Journeys here. (Kirigalpoththa Tour 1 & Kirigalpoththa Tour 2)
    • Help Save the Environment.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hi everyone! Hope you guys and gals are doing great and had a fabulous New Year. Anyway by the time you read this, it must be way past New Year, probably Vesak Festival as well. So let’s get on with the story. I guess the topic might have given you a clue as to what this is about. It all started with the holidays when I got a full week off but had nothing to do. All my traveling buddies were busy with the New Year preparations making it impossible for them to do any hikes.

This is when Ana called and asked if I would like to join him for a hike. Well, this is what you call being lucky and without so much as a second thought I jumped in. Well what would you do if it turned out to be a journey which you had done twice before within the last year? I don’t think many would have been fancy to take on that offer but not me. I don’t mind visiting the same place over and over again because everytime it’s a different experience. After all, we eat the same thing again and again, do the same boring things day after day so why not see and visit the same place every now and then, I keep asking myself.  So when he suggested to do the Kirigalpoththa Trail once again (for the third time within a year), I felt elated quite different from many others.

Day 01

So we set off on the wee hours of 11 April on our journey with plans to visit many other places. However unlike all our other journeys, we didn’t have a proper plan in place. We had three key places to visit but other than Kirigalpoththa, the rest was very sketchy. This time we had two other companions, Fritz (novice hiker), one of Ana’s friends and a naturao cum veterinary, Dr. Deepani, joining for the hike. We all got together and left for Kalugala around 4am.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Laxapana Ella, Koththellena.
  2. Rozella.
  3. Kirigalpoththa, Horton Plains.
  4. Aberdeen Ella, Kalaweldeniya.
  5. Martin Air Memorial, Norton Bridge.
  6. Norton Pond, Norton Bridge.
  7. Castlereigh Dam & Reservoir, Norwood.
  8. Sunset from Rozella.

Ok, here we go but not before we have some breakfast. Weerasiri Cafe passing Miriswatte on A4 before Avissawella is a good place to have a meal and they open by 5am.

Laxapana Ella

We reached Kalugala where the right turn will take you along B189 towards Norton and Maskeliya. However this forks once again after 1-2km at Bodhigira Junction. Check my report, Waterfall Festival, for more information and higher water levels. We took the right, rather straight road that goes via Polpitiya, Hangarapitiya and Koththellena. The condition of the road is terrible and better to stay away if you go in a car or similar vehicle. Alternatively you can take the left road (B189 – Kithulgala-Norton Bridge Road) which goes via Kehelwarawa, Morahenagama, Laxapana and Kiriwaneliya. This will circle around and then come to Koththellena.

However, the Koththellena lower road is very scenic compared to the other as it goes keeping the Seven Virgins to the right along the base. We reached Koththellena and took the cement steps to the left that lead to the base of the falls. You will also see the memorial located before Koththellena commemorating the victims of Martin Air but we didn’t bother to stop and I visited it during my previous visit.

Total Length – About 750m to the base.

Elevation Difference – 236m (877m – 641m)

GPS Location – Latitude 6.90047 // Longitude 80.50023

The cement steps are fully completed now with a hand railing making it easy. The steepness is so much and one would really appreciate it. Unfortunately the water levels were not so great but the relatively thin streak of water greatly enhanced the sheer height of her. Well, unlike last time, I could get to closer to the base. Here you go and look at the pictures.

Breath-taking...

Breath-taking…

Rugged looking Seven Virgins

Rugged looking Seven Virgins

Here we are

Here we are

Have to go down

Have to go down

The top

The top

Last time, it was fully covered with water

Last time, it was fully covered with water

Long and silky

Long and silky

Shallow base pool

Shallow base pool

Very tall and long legged

Very tall and long legged

Rocky top

Rocky top

The base

The base

Very little water to speak of

Very little water to speak of

Portrait

Portrait

Searching for breakfast

Searching for breakfast

The steps

The steps

Red

Red

Oh, hello!

Oh, hello!

Very tasty

Very tasty

Rozella

We took our leave and had a quick cup of plain tea flavored with ginger before heading to our base, Ana’s Nest in Rozella. After a wash, we sat down for a sumptuous meal. You wanna know what we had, don’t you? Well, here we go. See if you would like to have a similar meal.

Couldn't have asked for more

Couldn’t have asked for more

We all were dog tired, especially Ana, having driven all the way since the early hours. So, a bellyful meal was followed by a short nap. It was a treat to have been able to get away from the blood boiling heat of Colombo. It’s like being roasted on a spit over a never-ending fire.

After a dreamless sleep, a hot coffee was in order. Then it was time for some exercises for the lazy muscles. So we hit the estate road which is ideal for an afternoon stroll. The lush green tea plants smiled with us while a couple of birds sang to us. Most important of all, the Most Sacred Mountain looked upon us over the hills giving the blessings. About 100m into the walk, we came across a scary thing. Can you guess what it is? Probably Tony guessed it correct. It’s the terrifying sight of leopard pooh, grrrrrr. Just imagine having to witness leopard pooh so close to our home. We were thrilled and sacred at the same time.

The circular trail is closer to 1.5km and we took our time to enjoy the scenery and take in the mountain air to our tired and poisoned lungs. I guess it’s time you saw the pictures without me keeping you waiting from this awesome sight. Go on, enjoy them folks!

Our home

Our home

Where I slept

Where I slept

Many of them

Many of them

Oh, where did it spring from?

Oh, where did it spring from?

Ana taking a pic of leopard poo. This was only about 100m from our home

Ana taking a pic of leopard poo. This was only about 100m from our home

Dark clouds threatening us

Dark clouds threatening us

Typical estate work

Typical estate work

Not a healthy looking tea estate

Not a healthy looking tea estate

There's Sri Pada

There’s Sri Pada

What a lovely picture it makes

What a lovely picture it makes

Hey!

Hey!

Posing for the pic

Posing for the pic

The night slowly befell upon us bringing the dark from all over with a chilly wind forcing us indoors. There was a necklace of pearls glittering in the dark. I was worried somebody might steal it but I shouldn’t have for it was the lights flickering along the Hatton route to the pointed summit of Sri Pada. Would you like to see what it is like? Don’t let me stop you, go savor it.

The necklace of pearls

The necklace of pearls

Closer

Closer

The dinner tasted even better. A warm and a comfortable bed was waiting for me for which I duly obliged. Through the window I could see the diamond necklace hanging in the air. The sleep slowly took over my body and took it away to a faraway land for the night.

Nutritious

Nutritious

Day 02

Getting up at 3am out of a comfy and warm bed needs a lot of persuasion. The sleeping angels flatly refused to let me go but there was an even better girl summoning me. So I pushed the blanket out of the way and found Ana already up and about. A strong black coffee with a punchy sugar boost got me out of my trance and we got busy preparing for the big journey. Fritz had never been to the Kirigalpoththa before so this was a big moment for him. Dr. Deepani had been there a long time ago so this was as good as going for the first time.

Chick Peas was boiling in the pot and we were waiting for the eggs to make sandwiches. It was like an anthill everyone busily chipping in. Finally we got everything nice and tidy before leaving our home around 4.30am, a good half hour later than we liked. However we didn’t know at the time that it would cost us dearly and cause some uncomfort at the end. Driving in the early morning feeling the chill in our bones is not a healthy experience so we kept the windows up and close.

Kirigalpoththa Trail

It was around 6.30am when we arrived at the ticket counter to find the parking area is full of vehicles. Every one of them had foreigners except us. We were the only local group and thanks to Dr. D’s prompt action, we managed to get the tickets soon. On the way to the main car park, we saw a little Sambar was being fed by its mother but the little fella was right under the mother Sambar’s tummy making it impossible to get a clear picture.

At 6.58am, we arrived at the car park and got down to work on the boiled and tempered Chick Peas. Having made a big dent in the portion, we got ready to begin the hike. Having shown our permit and the bags to the checking counter, we hit the trail just before 7.30am, still that half hour late. Just remember to inform the checking counter of your destination as it’d make things easier should you happen to come across any misfortune. Also, it’s imperative you inform them after the journey of your safe return. So, enough of all that, let’s make a move. Oh, forgot to tell you that this was my 20th visit to the Horton Plains since 2000. Well, little did I know that I’d get to celebrate it in an unprecedented way.

Windmills in Ambewela

Windmills in Ambewela

Zoomed

Zoomed

Sun struggling to come out

Sun struggling to come out

Finally out on the cotton wool sky

Finally out on the cotton wool sky

We were waiting for the tickets

We were waiting for the tickets

Do you see the Sri Pada?

Do you see the Sri Pada?

If you look closer, there's the cub underneath feeding

If you look closer, there’s the cub underneath feeding

And they ran away

And they ran away

Good Morning!

Good Morning!

Beautiful landscapes

Beautiful landscapes

Breakfast

Breakfast

Climbing Uphill

It’d been raining heavily over the past few days, especially in the evenings. The grassy bit of trail was like a sponge cake as a result. The invasive Eulex plants seemed to have grown further. About a 100m-stretch of the trail is now nearly blocked by them making the hikers to take a detour around them. This is worse than a cancer. I can remember in the past there were projects carried out by schools, environmental groups, etc. to remove them and their efforts paid dividends. Apparently it’s the time once again somebody did something to combat this problem. Well, here is something the Lakdasun can do for our next project similar to the one we did at Muthurajawela. This is gonna be even more important.

The Sambars kept roaming around us but keeping their distance. Agra Bopath looked greener than ever while the rest of the plains were colored with many shades of green, yellow, brownish red and the blue sky with cotton wool sky completed the show. We encountered our first and only leopard pooh passing through the first forest patch. “Tony would have loved it”, said Ana. The path was soggy in many places and we got our shoes muddy. We then came to the big stream that flows across the path and rested for a while.

Crossing it presented many problems as she had more water than my previous visits. After maneuvering a bit, we crossed over to the other side and started the walk along the path bordered by the tiny bamboo plants. Now the sun was fully up and had started lighting up the open terrain. However he failed to bring about the freshness of the real Horton Plains due to the continuous rains. That gloominess hung in the air so thick you could have leaned on it. The forest paths were soggy and darker than my previous two visits. Nearly all of the Nelu trees were gone with their colorful flowers. Nevertheless, the odd ones still kept trying to defy the nature.

Ok, Ana found it was easy to practice his triple jumps this time as there were plenty of muddy patches to cross. Fritz, the novice hiker, kept motivating us when it should have been the other way around. Dr. D had no problem at all to encounter the difficulties and looking back, I feel it was me who found it tougher despite having been here twice before. We arrived at the base of the Kirigalpoththa around 10am, having made very good ground. We were feeling mighty hungry and decided to work on the egg sandwiches before the final push. Until we do that, you enjoy the pictures up to now. It’d been nice had we more sandwiches to share with you but we have about 16 of them (barely enough for us). So it’s better you find something to eat before coming for the last bit.

The Farr Inn

The Farr Inn

We're on the way

We’re on the way

Eulex covered with dew

Eulex covered with dew

See the color combination

See the color combination

A group of them far away

A group of them far away

This is some medicinal plant, I've forgotten the name

This is some medicinal plant, I’ve forgotten the name

Here our path, Agra Bopath to the right

Here our path, Agra Bopath to the right

Red

Red

Dead tree arts

Dead tree arts

With the half moon

With the half moon

One and only leopard poo we saw

One and only leopard poo we saw

Reflection

Reflection

Can you read the insignia? It's Fly Dubai

Can you read the insignia? It’s Fly Dubai

The popular stream

The popular stream

Well?

Well?

Here shooting away

Here shooting away

One of my favorite things to photograph

One of my favorite things to photograph

Crossed the stream

Crossed the stream

Pinky

Pinky

Miles of open terrain

Miles of open terrain

Saw something similar during Maliboda Trail

Saw something similar during Maliboda Trail

Butter Cup - Another invasive plant despite the sweet look

Butter Cup – Another invasive plant despite the sweet look

Triple jump champion getting warmed up

Triple jump champion getting warmed up

Orchids

Orchids

Wow

Wow

Plenty of little bamboo

Plenty of little bamboo

Path through them

Path through them

Not Gotukola

Not Gotukola

Spiky, this actually helped us fasten a torn sleeve

Spiky, this actually helped us fasten a torn sleeve

There goes Ana, the first jump

There goes Ana, the first jump

I guess I told you that I like them

I guess I told you that I like them

Agra Bopath

Agra Bopath

Some more

Some more

Different one

Different one

The usual Bovitiya

The usual Bovitiya

He was too fast for the camera

He was too fast for the camera

Jumped

Jumped

Pair of them

Pair of them

Some more

Some more

Mushroom tree

Mushroom tree

Looks like jelly, ain't it?

Looks like jelly, ain’t it?

Before the steep part

Before the steep part

“Alright, let’s make a move”, said Fritz and make a move was we did. The lime flavored drink gave us a liquid boost after a hearty meal. We started the climb. The path was overgrown but not impassable. Now that we were in the steep stretch, going was very slow with continuous breaks. The higher we climbed, the better the view became making us yearn to get to the top. Finally we arrived at the first observation point about 150-200m before the summit. Remember, here is in fact the best view point. The summit doesn’t have much of a view of the surroundings. We stopped for some water and a few massaging minutes for our feet.

Dozens of pictures were taken but as I said earlier, the views were not top of the range yet enough for the casual observer. Thick grey clouds loomed in the distance obscuring the sun and the view. We decided to make it to the summit without wasting much time. We chose as usual the path along the forest, not the risky one along the rocky ledge.

It took us about 15 mins to get to the top. The summit covered with tiny guava trees doesn’t offer much view but you won’t be disappointed, lemme assure you. Fritz and Dr. D were over the moon while Ana looked on as if this is sometimes he does every other day. We all sat around the summit for a group picture. The gong of the Dayagama Factory could be heard and we all decided not to be late to get down. So after the photographic session, we decided to call it a day and head down.

Up we go

Up we go

View getting clearer

View getting clearer

Lovely

Lovely

I simply love this too

I simply love this too

This fellow was very tiny, smaller than a 25-cent coin (if you remember that coin)

This fellow was very tiny, smaller than a 25-cent coin (if you remember that coin)

"Sudu Binara" endemic plant

“Sudu Binara” endemic plant

The path goes around

The path goes around

Slab Rock Falls can be seen if you look closer to the right

Slab Rock Falls can be seen if you look closer to the right

Waiting for us

Waiting for us

Our destination

Our destination

Closer

Closer

Here we are at the first viewing point

Here we are at the first viewing point

Dark clouds somewhat ruined the beauty

Dark clouds somewhat ruined the beauty

Here's the rocky slope

Here’s the rocky slope

Those guavas are very tasty if you happen to find a ripe one

Those guavas are very tasty if you happen to find a ripe one

Once again

Once again

To the peak

To the peak

Looking back

Looking back

Here comes

Here comes

Here we are

Here we are

View all around

View all around

The team at the summit, look at Fritz who kept imitating Usain Bolt. Pic by. Ana

The team at the summit, look at Fritz who kept imitating Usain Bolt. Pic by. Ana

We met another group of people coming up as we were climbing down. There must have been a dozen or so guys laboring up. The clouds kept getting thicker and darker warning about the imminent rains. We decided to step up the pace because if rained, those soggy and muddy stretches will be even more difficult to cross. We came up to the main stream without a problem and stopped for about 10 mins to get our breath. This break too cost us some vital time. About a little over half km, without any more rumbling, it started to rain.

We had no choice but to keep going. Dr. D produced an umbrella (don’t know how she managed that) and Fritz had his jacket which was waterproof. I too had flimsy remains of a disposable raincoat which I borrowed from Amila during Eli Hatha. It kept the upper body away from the rains but Ana got wet as he had no protection. The rain kept up until we reached the safety of Farr Inn around 2.20pm. It was that half hour delay that cost us and made us wet. So it’s really important on days like these to start and finish as early as possible. I went and informed the checking counter about our return before heading to our vehicle. There was a homeless Sambar (probably chased away from the house by his wife) begging for something but we didn’t comply for his disappointment. Showing his back to us, the fella went away trying the rest of the tourists.

Bunch of them

Bunch of them

Going down from the first view point

Going down from the first view point

Got lucky to find him

Got lucky to find him

We were there

We were there

Rain is imminent and we hurried on

Rain is imminent and we hurried on

Ready for another jump

Ready for another jump

Here goes

Here goes

Kept looking for a Rhino Horned Lizard but none to be found

Kept looking for a Rhino Horned Lizard but none to be found

Bamboo

Bamboo

Back near the stream, it started rain after another 15mins or so

Back near the stream, it started rain after another 15mins or so

Wet Sambar looking for something to eat

Wet Sambar looking for something to eat

Giving us the tongue

Giving us the tongue

Looking at us from the corner of his eyes

Looking at us from the corner of his eyes

Had enough of us

Had enough of us

We drove home and surprisingly there were many more vehicles heading to Horton Plains even after 3.30-4pm. All of them were locals and we kept wondering what they were going to see at that late hour and in heavy rains.

We made it home around 5pm and chatted about the day’s events after a warm bath. I spent a little more time taking the diamond necklace on my lenses which was glittering in the dark. I wish I could be on the summit of Sri Pada then.  The dinner was delicious as usual and we went to sleep after a successful journey. Tomorrow would bring more exciting experiences but let’s see what they are later. Go get some sleep coz my eye lids got some heavy chunks of lead on them and can’t keep them open anymore. Good night folks!

Omelets Pizza, another of our signature dishes

Omelets Pizza, another of our signature dishes

Followed by Dinner

Followed by Dinner

Day 03

Good morning everyone, it’s the New Year eve. You must be busy getting ready for the new year but here we are up and about. It’s just gone 4am and we had our coffee while contemplating the plans for the day. Finally after a few cups of strong and scalding coffee we came to an agreement. We’d go to Aberdeen, Castlereigh and Dickoya Club, in that order. Looks like a good plan, doesn’t it? Well let’s go out and see. But, please wait, we’ve gotta have some breakfast before.

Good Morning Sri Pada!

Good Morning Sri Pada!

Closer

Closer

Gorgeous sky

Gorgeous sky

Some Kiribath for breakfast

Some Kiribath for breakfast

Aberdeen Falls

Ok, we’re ready, if you are. Or should I say something like “Naan Ready – Neenga Rediyah?”. Fritz decided to stay behind and in his words, chill out. Whatever it meant, we decided not to pursue any further and left him to look after the bungalow. We drove to Rozella and then took the Sri Pada Road off A7 at 58th km post. It’s 8km from here to Norton. We turn to the right and drove towards Laxapana. After a short distance is the Kalaweldeniya Road to your right. Take this (unlike the last time closer to 18 months before) carpeted road for about 4-4.5km to reach the falls, rather the trail head.

We met a family of giant squirrels playing around and managed to take a few pictures. After that we arrived at the trail to our right and got down. The path is very steep but thankfully there are cement steps similar to Laxapana but not the same quality. Laxapana path is maintained properly as there are houses along it. It’s completely the opposite at Aberdeen with no houses anywhere near. Leeches kept slithering around the cement steps hoping for a free meal. They in fact managed to suck a decent amount of blood out of us.

Not being able to take it nice and slow was really tough due to them. To make matters worse, the not-so-used path was slippery as well. We treaded carefully not wanting to end up at a hospital when the New Year was at the door frame. I can still remember how it was like last time. The villagers then claimed it was the highest amount of water in decades while the roar of the waterfall could be heard so far up the path.  We finally arrived at the viewing point and decided to roam around. She’s as tall as Laxapana with very little water.

The eroded rocky surface almost looked pre-historic with many strange shapes and colors. Fierce sun made it quite uncomfortable especially to take pictures. After a while, as if heard our pleas, he hid behind a thick cloud giving us a more appropriate window both to photograph and enjoy. Amid vivid colors, she looked absolutely stunning falling like silk to the base pool. This is what I usually refer as kissable. We spent as long as we could enjoy this beauty unfolding before us. Finally, it was time for us to go see what other nearby attractions were. Good bye sweet heart and you can bet last drop of your water that I would be back.

Oh hello!

Oh hello!

Looking for his partner

Looking for his partner

Got irritated by our intrusion

Got irritated by our intrusion

Just look at the amount of water when this was taken – We saw a similar view but didn’t have a chance to picture like this

Just look at the amount of water when this was taken – We saw a similar view but didn’t have a chance to picture like this

Viewing platform, last time it was impossible to get to it

Viewing platform, last time it was impossible to get to it

Ooops

Ooops

This is nothing at all compared to last time

This is nothing at all compared to last time

Hitting the base

Hitting the base

Portrait

Portrait

The top

The top

The base

The base

Look at the eroded rocky surface

Look at the eroded rocky surface

This one is normally known as "Thal Ataya"

This one is normally known as “Thal Ataya”

Alien?

Alien?

Any idea what this is?

Any idea what this is?

Whatever it is, a good actor coz now it's pretending to be dead

Whatever it is, a good actor coz now it’s pretending to be dead

Well not really

Well not really

Martin Air Memorial & the Norton Pond

We retraced the route and arrived at Norton Bridge. Ana wanted to fill the diesel and I took the liberty of wondering about. First I saw the Memorial of the DC-10 tragedy which occurred more than three decades ago. One of the tires is placed by the road to commemorate the 191 lives that were lost in one of the worst aviation disasters near the police station. There are many stories about the incident and I don’t think this is the time to go into them. Just take a look at it from my angle coz I’m sure most of you must have come across this either in person or through a similar post. After that, come let’s go see the Norton Pond. Now don’t get alarmed if you haven’t heard the name. Those who have passed through Norton Bridge must have seen this without knowing the real name. So if this is new to you, lemme do the introduction.

“Facts about the Norton Pond…

Owner: CEB

Purpose: Hydropower Generation

Type: Concrete Gravity

Power Generation: 50 MW

Dam Crest Level: 873.00 masl

Dam Crest Length: 103m

Full Supply Level: 866.85 masl

Minimum Operating Level: 863.80 masl

Storage (at FSL): 0.39 MCM

Surface Area: 0.15 sq. km

Catchment Area (Direct): 19.4 sq. km

Construction Started: 1924

Construction Completed: 1948 Sep”

This is something new for me. It looked nice and placid. This is fed by the excess water from the Castlereigh Reservoir. After a few minutes, we left along Hatton Road parallel to the water stream which feeds the Norton Pond hoping to see Castlereigh Dam & Reservoir. First, enjoy the pictures of Norton Pond.

Here it is

Here it is

More than 4 decades ago

More than 4 decades ago

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The Dam

The Dam

Closer

Closer

Through the spill gates

Through the spill gates

Where water is released when it's too much

Where water is released when it’s too much

Good looking

Good looking

Time to go

Time to go

But not before this

But not before this

Castlereigh Dam & Reservoir

We drove along the road which ran through tea estates. Every house looked busy with New Year preparations and there was hardly any other vehicle. The kids were playing around but stopped for a while to wave at us. Everyone seemed to be in good spirits. Passing Osborne Estate, we finally arrived at the Castlereigh Dam. Letting Ana drive along, I got off deciding to walk along the dam. There are remains of army check points and sandbagged bunkers, signs of the difficulty time we all faced.

Places like these were out of bounds for the general public in the past and taking pictures was just a dream but not anymore. I enjoyed every inch of the over 100m dam taking picture after picture. The reservoir looked huge and the colors were simply mesmerizing. I heard that the water of most reservoirs is green due to the fast growing algae. Their growth has increased by many times due to the excessive usage of fertilizers for the farms and tea estates. Those fertilizers reach the reservoirs having washed down with the rains. See what you think about this.

We then drove on and before merging with the Bogawanthalawa-Hatton Road, we stopped to take pictures of an ancient looking church. Ana had been to it before but wanted to take a few pictures from where we were. This is the Christ Church, Warleigh, Dickoya. Here they are for you to enjoy.

On the dam

On the dam

The excess water goes to Norton Pond

The excess water goes to Norton Pond

Closer look

Closer look

Is that an elevator?

Is that an elevator?

Lush greenery

Lush greenery

It doesn't apply anymore

It doesn’t apply anymore

The greenish slime I told you about

The greenish slime I told you about

Endless

Endless

Probably used by the CEB

Probably used by the CEB

Green all around including water

Green all around including water

Hatton-Osborne bus

Hatton-Osborne bus

There's a beautiful and old church near here

There’s a beautiful and old church near here

Up there

Up there

Can you see?

Can you see?

There it is, couldn't visit this time but maybe later

There it is, couldn’t visit this time but maybe later

This is the Christ Church, Warleigh, Dickoya

This is the Christ Church, Warleigh, Dickoya

Our next stop was Dickoya Club which had been built during the colonial era. Unfortunately they were closed for the New Year until the 16 April. So we had to turn around with nothing to show for the trouble.

Very old club. Pic by Ana

Very old club. Pic by Ana

On our way, we passed the Hatton town bustling with people. We managed to make it home just before 1pm and found Fritz been busy drying out the wet clothes and shoes from Kirigalpoththa. Lunch was delicious and we wanted another map before anything. Don’t worry; you will see the pics of our Japanese styled cuttlefish dish too. Now that my Bundy is full, I’m gonna take a nap and suggest you do the same before coming back. Let’s see what the evening would bring.

Japanese styled cuttle fish

Japanese styled cuttle fish

Followed by lunch

Followed by lunch

And the dessert

And the dessert

Sunset from Rozella

I woke to find the mist had been and left. There was a bit of it stubbornly hanging in the air. I came out to find Ana already up and the inevitable cup of coffee in hand. It was closer to 5pm. After a few minutes, we decided to go for an evening stroll. The chill clung to our bare skin lovingly as we walked along. Seven Virgins were to our immediate right but it was the sight of Sri Pada in the evening that stole our breath.

The sky was so colorful, with yellow, orange, crimson and purple mixed in a way that looked like a professional artist had been working with his crayons hard. To the edge of the Seven Virgins sun began his descend after a busy day and the clouds were illuminated by the final rays. We were mesmerized by what we saw. Apparently you don’t necessarily have to be on top a mountain or at a beach to witness a beautiful sunset. I saw a similar one between Palmadulla & Ratnapura when returning after a journey. Well, I’ll let you see what we experienced without a delay. However, just remember it’s nowhere near like you see it with your own eyes.

Going for an evening walk

Going for an evening walk

Sun setting slowly

Sun setting slowly

Cloudy and colorful sky

Cloudy and colorful sky

Almost dark

Almost dark

Seven Virgins beyond

Seven Virgins beyond

At the last bit

At the last bit

Closer

Closer

Let's go

Let’s go

The Best Mountain in the World

The Best Mountain in the World

Can you see the tiny blood ready pearl?

Can you see the tiny blood ready pearl?

Look at this

Look at this

Amazing, ain't it?

Amazing, ain’t it?

Ok, have to go now

Ok, have to go now

We came back home and sat down for yet another delicious dinner. Gosh, the New Year is almost on top of us but we needed the beauty of our sleep. The lights of Hatton Trail looked more beautiful when I hit the bed. Before I go to dreamland, lemme wish you all a very happy new year full of safe and happy traveling.

Tiny peals hung in the air

Tiny peals hung in the air

Closer

Closer

Our dinner

Our dinner

Day 04

Good morning and happy New Year once again guys! I’m really excited coz the New Year is always a great time. We got busy with making breakfast as the Nonagathaya started at 7.23am. We all wanted to be home before the New Year Dawn around 1pm. We prepared or rather invented a new kind of burger. Kurakkan mixed Roti Burger with Omelet and Dates Chutney. Packing it, we left our home for the past four days, Ana’s Nest around 6am. Well, lemme show you our new invented recipe.

Giant omelet

Giant omelet

Kurakkan Roti

Kurakkan Roti

Ready to make burgers

Ready to make burgers

We had our breakfast on the way before 7.23am duly obliging the rituals. The road was so isolated save for the odd vehicle with tourists going probably to Nuwara Eliya. There were firecrackers going off all along. Finally, we arrived home around 9.30am well before the rest of the auspicious times.

So, there ends Sri’s another fairy tale. Well I’ve got a couple of Panos as well.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Hope you had a grand New Year and ready to face the rest of it positively. The next fairy tale will be about our heritage so be ready for something spectacular.

Take care and keep traveling. This is Sri saying goodbye.

To the Peninsular on the Rails…….

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Year and Month February, 2015 (27th February- 1st March)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 9 – four adults & five kids (7-13 yrs)
Accommodation Thal Sevana Holiday Resort, KKS
Transport A/C Intercity Express Train
Activities Family trip
Weather Excellent weather – sunny and bright
Route
  • Day 01: Colombo -> KKS (by train); KKS -> Jaffna -> KKS (by hired van)
  • Day 02: KKS  -> Arali -> Punkudutive -> Nainative (by Van & boat)
  • Day 03: KKS -> Colombo (by train)
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Train reservation opens 45 days prior to the journey – can book either by visiting Fort RS or via Mobitel (dial 365)
  • Reserve Thal Sevana along with the train – fully booked during weekends
  • Arrange for a van from Jaffna for the sightseeing – cannot find vehicles for hire at KKS
  • If you are staying at Thalsevana you have to buy all meals from them as there are no shops/hotels/ in the vicinity.
Author Nayani
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Ever since the legendary Yal Devi was re-launched we wanted to visit the Peninsular by train but decided to wait a few months till the rush settled – especially during school holidays. Finally the dates were fixed for Friday 27th Feb – Sunday 1st March and train reservation was made. As it was not a long weekend booking both ways was not a problem.

I should say the A/C Intercity Express train to Jaffna is the best train I have travelled in Sri Lanka. It is still in immaculate condition as the vandals haven’t touched it yet. It starts from Mt.Lavinia and reaches Colombo Fort around 5.30am and leaves for KKS at 5.45. The journey is swift and you do not feel the speed at all. By 9am it passes Anuradhapura and then runs non-stop to Vauniya. It reaches Jaffna by 12.20pm and reaches its destination KKS by 12.45pm.

Thal Sevana Holiday Resort, managed by the Sri Lanka Army, is only 100mts away from the KKS Station and when you show your hotel reservation receipt at the station they inform the Resort and an assistant comes to take your luggage.

Thal Sevana offers luxury to budget accommodation and also has two large domes that can accommodate large groups. It has three restaurants and the latest addition is the swimming pool. But the best feature at the Resort is the unending sandy beach and the deep-blue sea.

Enloying the journey

Enloying the journey

Changing landscape

Changing landscape

End of the Northern Line - KKS

End of the Northern Line – KKS

End of the Northern Line - KKS

End of the Northern Line – KKS

Thal Sevana seen from the KKS station

Thal Sevana seen from the KKS station

We reached Thal Sevana by 1pm and the hot sun was at its best. The kids could not resist the pool and after a short dip in the pool we had lunch and retired to the rooms for a short rest.

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We had booked a van from Jaffna for sightseeing and we left the hotel at 3.30 for our tour.

Our first stop was Kandaragoda Raja Maha Vihara at Chunnakam. It consists of over 20 small pagodas believed to from the pre-Anuradhapura era. The legend is that the procession carrying the sacred bo-tree from Dambakolapatuna stopped at Kadurugoda on its long journey to Anuradhapura and from then onwards there had been a vast temple complex here housing a large number of rahathan vahansela. However we noted that the entire area was maintained by the Army and the priest who was here during our last visit – over three years ago- had left the place.

The Stupa complex at Kandaragoda

The Stupa complex at Kandaragoda

From Chunnakam we proceeded to Jaffna and our next stop was the famous Nallur Kandasammy Kovil. The Kovil was being renovated and re-pained getting ready to welcome Shri Narendra Modi who was to visit Jafna in a few days. As it was a week-day the place was not very crowded and we spent quite some time admiring the colourful murals adorning the walls.

At Nallur Kovil

At Nallur Kovil

After leaving the Kovil we went to see King Sanguli’s statue in the vicinity. It is a recent monument and right behind it you get the ruins of what is believed to be his palace. It was just a heap of soil and no trace of a building could be found. But I had read somewhere that what is believed to be a house of a Minister of King Sanguli is in the vicinity which is in good condition but our driver was totally ignorant of any such building. Finally we showed him a pic of the said building – Rajamanthri Walawwa – in amaizinglanka website and we were directed to the decaying building a few meters away by a three-wheeler driver.  It looked more like an old walawwa and it is hard to believe that it is more than 200 years old and it kept me wondering whether the story is true.

King Sanguli’s Statue

King Sanguli’s Statue

Rajamanthri Walawwa

Rajamanthri Walawwa

You should not miss Rio Ice Cream before leaving Nallur. It was a treat that we all enjoyed – the delicious tastes of their special ice-cream.

Thereafter we headed towards the Fort and we witnessed the sun going down from the rampart walls. It was a breath-taking sight and was the best reward of the day. We walked along the rampart walls till dusk and finally headed towards the town to find a good eating place for our dinner. The driver took us to a famous eatery right opposite Nagadeepa Temple, Jaffna. It looked more like an eatery in Colombo and was packed. Definitely it is a popular place, especially catering to the crowds coming from Colombo. We enjoyed an authentic Jaffna meal and headed towards Thal Sevana, all feeling contended at the end of our long day.

Sunset from the rampart walls

Sunset from the rampart walls

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Day 02:

We left the hotel around 6.30 in the morning and headed towards Nainative. The landscape along the way was breathtaking in the morning sun as we passed a number of causeways. At Arali Point we made a detour to visit the Denzil Kobbekaduwa Memorial just 2km away from the road. It is where Major General Kobbekaduwa and 9 other military officers were assassinated in 1992 by blasting their vehicle. A small Army unit is stationed there to manage the place.

Gen. Kobbekaduwa Memorial at Arali Point

Gen. Kobbekaduwa Memorial at Arali Point

Gen. Kobbekaduwa Memorial at Arali Point

Gen. Kobbekaduwa Memorial at Arali Point

We had our breakfast at Kayts and headed towards the Punkudutive jetty. The jetty was crowed and we understood that Kachchative Festival was taking place and there were large crowds waiting to get into to boats. There were two queues – one for Kachchative and one for Nagadeepa. We were fortunate to get seats in the new boat managed by the temple which is luxurious compared to the old wooden boats that you cannot breathe once you are seated at the bottom. After a swift ride of less than fifteen minutes we reached Nagadeepa Temple. Now there are two jetties – boats land at the jetty near the temple and leave from the jetty near the Kovil. So it is more systematic and less crowded but I think the idea is your first worship the temple and then the kovil!

The boat ride

The boat ride

Nagadeepa Temple at a distance

Nagadeepa Temple at a distance

We worshiped the temple and then headed towards the kovil in the boiling sun. You can take a tuk-tuk if you want but its good to walk – even in the scorching sun – stopping at the wayside kiosks selling Jaffna products.

The kovil is known as Nagapooshani Amman Temple and is a very ancient temple. It too was undergoing the re-painting process that Nallur Kovil was subjected to.

After worshipping the kovil we headed towards the jetty and it was packed with devotees. We were not fortunate to catch the semi-luxury boat this time and had to suffocate in an ordinary wooden boat for the return journey.

The Temple and the Kovil

The Temple and the Kovil

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We headed towards Kayts for lunch and it was so hot that the air-conditioner inside the van was not powerful enough to beat the heat. After lunch we wanted reach Karaitivu by using the ferry but to our dismay the ferry had been stopped for repairs. So, the return journey was again via Jaffna. We visited the Nakuleswaran Kovil and fresh water ponds at Keerimalai.

Calm pond – before the splash

Calm pond – before the splash

Colourful pond – after the splash!

Colourful pond – after the splash!

On our way to Keerimalai at a distance we saw a huge mansion complex rising above the trees and learnt that it was the so-called “Presidential Palace, Jaffna”. It indeed was a palace even at a distance.

After Keerimali we made a brief visit to Dambakola Patuna temple and by this time we were so worn out by the hot sun that we all wanted to call it a day and come back to our oasis – Thal Sevana- as soon as possible.

We reached Thal Sevena by 4.30 and after a cup of tea the kids cooled off in the pool and we rested till the sun went down. We all had a very refreshing sea bath in the evening. There is one particular place for sea bathing and there are some lifeguards on duty.  So we all enjoyed a safe sea bath until the sun went down and the lights of the KKS lighthouse started flashing.

We had a lovely outdoor dinner basking in the moonlight and enjoying the cool breeze coming from the sea and went early to bed as we were all tired of our long day.

Day 3:

On the third day we slept till late as we had no special plans for the day. We went for a morning sea bath and enjoyed it till the harsh sun-rays started coming out. We had our breakfast and thereafter the kids along with the fathers hired bicycles and went cycling along the deserted roads. We all had a relaxing morning and by noon had an early lunch at the hotel as we had to catch the return train at 1pm from KKS. The train left KKS around 1.20pm and was full at Jaffna. It was an uneventful pleasant journey back home and we reached Fort RS by 8.30pm.

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At the summit of Pidurutalagala

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Year and Month April, 2015
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 3 adults
Accommodation N/A
Transport Cars
Activities Photography
Weather Excellent. No clouds, no mist, just perfect!
Route Nuwara Eliya to Pidurutalagala and back
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Check weather. It is totally unpredictable.
  • To reach the summit point, you need prior approval from Army or Air Force. Otherwise you can go to the top but not to the exact summit point.
Author Chandanie
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Seeing the country from the highest point in Sri Lanka has been in my wish list for a long time. A holiday at Nuwara Eliya in April saw us heading towards Pidurutalagala one sunny morning. At 2525 metres, Pidurutalagala is the tallest mountain in Sri Lanka.

The climb to the top is now easy as it is motorable but the summit point is out of bounds unless prior permission has been obtained. The check point at the base allows vehicles to the top in an orderly manner to prevent overcrowding at the summit.

The weather there is so unpredictable with mist and rain playing havoc with the least provocation. But the Weather Gods were so very kind to us the day we went…..

The forest was on either side of the road, the trees typical of montane forests.

It is like a carpet with the tree tops all at the same level….

It is like a carpet with the tree tops all at the same level….

…. with an occasional tree rising above the rest

…. with an occasional tree rising above the rest

Halfway through you can see the sacred mountain of Sri Pada (aka Adam’s Peak) rising above the others.

Sri Pada moutain (Adam’s Peak), as seen halfway up Pidurutalagala

Sri Pada moutain (Adam’s Peak), as seen halfway up Pidurutalagala

The mountain range with Sri Pada mountain at the centre

The mountain range with Sri Pada mountain at the centre

There were some trees with hardly any leaves

There were some trees with hardly any leaves

Having never climbed to the top of Sri Pada, I simply couldn’t get enough and we stopped a few times to get different views!

One view

One view

And another!

And another!

The summit is shared by many government agencies and is a high security zone.

The summit

The summit

Kissing the clouds

Kissing the clouds

Wild flowers on the way

Wild flowers on the way

“….. I pulled my coat tight and slowly climbed the last hundred paces.

What I saw there was the grandest and purest impression I took away from all Ceylon. The wind has just swept clean the whole long valley of Nuwara Eliya, I saw, deep and immense, the entire high mountain system of Ceylon piled up in mighty walls, and in its midst the beautiful Adam’s Peak. Beside it at an infinite depth and distance lay the flat blue sea, in between a thousand mountains, broad valleys, narrow ravines, rivers and waterfalls, in countless folds, the whole mountainous island on which ancient legend places paradise.”

– Hermann Hesse 1911

The mountain range from the top

The mountain range from the top

Nuwara Eliya from just below the summit

Nuwara Eliya from just below the summit

Us - 2,525 m (8,292 ft) above sea-level

Us – 2,525 m (8,292 ft) above sea-level

About 20m above the summit

About 20m above the summit :-)

And the view was spectacular! We couldn’t have had it any better!

Nuwara Eliya – Lake Gregory and Lover’s Leap falls in the distance

Nuwara Eliya – Lake Gregory and Lover’s Leap falls in the distance

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Some Randenigala mountains at left and few Knuckles mountains in the centre

Some Randenigala mountains at left and few Knuckles mountains in the centre

At times it was like standing at Pidurutalagala on Google Earth and looking around!

At times it was like standing at Pidurutalagala on Google Earth and looking around!

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Randenigala reservoir snaking between the hills with Knuckles in the centre

Randenigala reservoir snaking between the hills with Knuckles in the centre

Randenigala reservoir

Randenigala reservoir

Maha Kudagala Peak – right centre (So says Ashan Geeganage

Maha Kudagala Peak – right centre (So says Ashan Geeganage :-) )

Shanthipura is a small village and is also Sri Lanka's highest settlement

Shanthipura is a small village and is also Sri Lanka’s highest settlement

Shanthipura- zoomed

Shanthipura- zoomed

Most of the other mountains can be seen clearly on a good day……

Kirigalpotta, the second highest peak in Sri Lanka

Kirigalpotta, the second highest peak in Sri Lanka

Men at work! Mahaweli maha seya on the left of the antenna and Ambuluwawa in the distance, to the right of the antenna

Men at work! Mahaweli maha seya on the left of the antenna and Ambuluwawa in the distance, to the right of the antenna

Randenigala reservoir and Knuckles range

Randenigala reservoir and Knuckles range

Saptha Kanya (Seven Virgins) range behind the Hakgala Mountain

Saptha Kanya (Seven Virgins) range behind the Hakgala Mountain

We WERE quite high up!

We WERE quite high up!

Kirigalpotta to the right and Thotupola kanda to the left of the antenna

Kirigalpotta to the right and Thotupola kanda to the left of the antenna

And just like Hesse did a century ago, I too walked away with the grandest and purest impression from all Sri Lanka.

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Being Lost on Hawagala

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 2 (My Brother and myself)
Accommodation Camping
Transport Public Transport  
Activities Camping / Scenery / trekking / Hiking / Photography
Weather A mixture of Sunny and misty conditions
Route
  • From Bandarawela Side: Bandarawela -> Haputhale -> Beragala -> Haldummulla -> Kalupahana ->Uvathanna -> marangahawela -> Halpe -> Pambahinna -> Belihuloya Guest House
  • From Colombo: Colombo -> Homagama -> Awissawella -> Rathnapura -> Balangoda -> Belihuloya Guest House

[Download Google Earth Trail Map]

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (2L per person) and food products. If you are going for camping you will need more.
  • Can fill up water bottles from the stream. But on the top there is no water to drink.
  • Wear attire as to cover your hands and legs to avoid sun burns and torn scratches.
  • Start as early as possible
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Need a guide if you are not familiar with the terrain.
  • Use compass and map.
  • Follow the footpath.
  • Ask directions from locals.
  • Use Leech Protection
  • It would take about 3 hours from landuyaya to get the summit.
  • Be ready for unpredictable weather conditions.
Related Resources
Author amalmadawa
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map 1 - Click to enlarge

Map 1 – Click to enlarge

Google Earth Map 1 - Click to enlarge

Google Earth Map 1 – Click to enlarge

Google Earth Map 2 - Click to enlarge

Google Earth Map 2 – Click to enlarge

Elevation Profile

Elevation Profile – Click to Enlarge

This is my 2nd Trip report. I had good feedbacks for my 1 trip report. When I’m reading trip reports of Havagala, I thought I will do this hike one day. When I’m doing Adarakanda Hike I planned my next camping trip. It was Havagala. I planned to do this hike on 2nd and 3rd of May. There was a long weekend so I came home and prepared for the upcoming Adventure.

2nd of May my brother and I went belihul oya. We took bus to reach Belihul oya and we get off from the bus near the Belihul Oya Guest House. The road near the Guest house takes you to the Landuyaya Village. So we started our hike from there. It was around 9.30 am. We continued walking until getting lift from friendly trishaw driver. After get off the tuk tuk we stated walk again. It was about 10.00 am. Sun was bright and weather seems good for now. We passed few paddy field when we reaching the Ihala galagama School. We had mini break. It was 10.20 am. Around 11.00 am we reached the Landuyaya Village.

Landuyaya Road 1

Landuyaya Road 1

Landuyaya Road 1

Landuyaya Road 1

Our Last Hike (Adara Kanda)

Our Last Hike (Adara Kanda)

Mountains

Mountains

Nice Surroundings

Nice Surroundings

Road towards to Ihala galagama

Road towards to Ihala galagama

Summit of Havagala

Summit of Havagala

More to go

More to go

Havagala

Havagala

Having little break

Having little break

Few meters to go

Few meters to go

Galagama falls falling from horton plains

Galagama falls falling from horton plains

We passed the village and came few meters ahead until we realized that we got the wrong way. So we came back to village and asked directions to the mountain. The path towards to the mountain starts just after passed the grocery. It is concreted for few meters. Then there was left side bend and we took foot path on the right side. It took us to a small bridge. It was about 11.30 am. After crossing the bridge we came few meters and found another small bridge and after crossing the 2nd bridge the trail continues to ascending and took us to the tea estate.

Path nearby the grocery

Path nearby the grocery

Trail starts from here

Trail starts from here

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Crossing the 1st stream

Crossing the 1st stream

Selfie! Brother and me

Selfie! Brother and me

Crossing the 2nd bridge

Crossing the 2nd bridge

It Took us to the Tea estate

It Took us to the Tea estate

Start to ascend

Start to ascend

There were many footpaths in tea estate. We didn’t know what the correct path is and we took one of these paths. For the 2nd time we took the wrong path. It was dead end. Then we came back and took another and it took us to the entrance of the mana patch beside tea estate.

The Tea Estate

The Tea Estate

Misty‬ Mountains

Misty‬ Mountains

Nice View

Nice View

A Hut

A Hut

Entering the mana patch

Entering the mana patch

We had to cross the forest patch and a stream to enter mana patch. We continued our hike until 12.15 pm. We had a break near a stream. We filled our bottles from the icy cold stream and took some pictures. We started hike again. Climbing through the mana patch wasn’t easy. We climbed in a zig zag manner while having few breaks. We climbed until around 1.30 pm. Then we had lunch. We didn’t spend more time after the lunch. Because weather didn’t seems ok. So we climbed fast as we can until we came to the end of the mana patch. There was only one option left. Going through the forest was the option. I planned to go around the forest. Because I thought it will difficult for us and will be get lost. But we had to take that option. It was the only one left. Luckily we had compass. Then we did set up it and entered the forest. It was dark and silence. We followed the compass. Some time I thought “are we got lost?”. We knew we got the wrong path to enter the forest. We went to the direction that compasses showed us. So finally we found foot path that described in other reports. It took us to the summit.

Water Stream

Water Stream

Drinking water wasn’t a problem during the hike

Drinking water wasn’t a problem during the hike

Paddy fields of the village

Paddy fields of the village

Pano toward to Galagama area

Pano toward to Galagama area

Still Climbing

Still Climbing

Wow !! Nice

Wow !! Nice

A friend

A friend

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Finally we found the foot path

Finally we found the foot path

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Walking through the forest

Walking through the forest

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Shade

Shade

Finally

Finally

Forest patch that we came through

Forest patch that we came through

To the summit

To the summit

Around 2.45 pm we reached to the summit. WOW. It’s amazing 360° view. We can see Rathnapura, Balangoda, Rakwana, Haldummulla, beragala, horton plains and Udawalawa area. Then we pitched our tent and collected more firewood quickly because of unpredictable weather condition. It was about 3.45 pm. Then I started to clicking. We walk around on the summit and took few snaps of the gloomy surroundings. Then the thick mist covered us in a second. So we decided to go camp site. Around 6.30 pm we lit up our campfire. Around 8 pm we had dinner and went for sleep.

Mist

Mist

On the summit

On the summit

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our home

our home

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Our Camp Site

Our Camp Site

It’s going to rain

It’s going to rain

On the summit

On the summit

samanalawewa reservoir

samanalawewa reservoir

Toward to Pambahinna area

Toward to Pambahinna area

Searching mobile reception

Searching mobile reception

Water collection of the summit. Not for Drink

Water collection of the summit. Not for Drink

Mist and the tent

Mist and the tent

It’s me

It’s me

Campfire lighting up with Bear Grylls style

Campfire lighting up with Bear Grylls style

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Campfire Lit up

Campfire Lit up

Trying to post some images

Trying to post some images

On the next day we woke up about 5.30 am. It was cold and little bit dark but it’s nice. I love it. Then I walked to the east side edge of the mountain and watched sun rises. I’m really enjoyed that morning weather condition and surroundings. What a feeling. I can’t explain how it’s felt. We had bread and Milo for the breakfast. It was about 8.30. After having breakfast we cleaned up campsite and we said goodbye to the mountain. It was around 9.00 am.

Morning Sky towards to horton plains

Morning Sky towards to horton plains

It was about 5.45 am

It was about 5.45 am

Blue sky

Blue sky

Pano

Pano

We were there

We were there

Non perial

Non perial

.

.

Nice

Nice

Morning Sky

Morning Sky

.

.

Morning Sky

Morning Sky

.

.

.

.

Sun is about to Rise

Sun is about to Rise

Waiting

Waiting

There is she

There is she

Paint work of nature

Paint work of nature

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Almost done

Almost done

Best pano

Best pano

Boiling water

Boiling water

.

.

.

.

Pettiyagala kanda

Pettiyagala kanda

Nice view

Nice view

Pano towards to Pettiyagala kanda

Pano towards to Pettiyagala kanda

Cleaning up the Camp Site

Cleaning up the Camp Site

.

.

Bye bye Havagala

Bye bye Havagala

Last pano

Last pano

leeches country

leeches country

We entered the forest patch and followed the path. We got the wrong path again. So we got lost again. So we used compass to find the way out from the woods. Around 1 hr walk in forest we finally managed to get out from the woods. It was difficult journey to climb down in a thick forest and with leeches. Then we came to the village and had break nearby icy cold stream. We washed our tiredness from the stream. It was about 11.30 am. We managed to climb down within 2.5 hours.

Setting up the compass

Setting up the compass

Inside the forest

Inside the forest

Entrance of the 2nd forest patch

Entrance of the 2nd forest patch

Finding the way out

Finding the way out

The path

The path

leech attack

leech attack

.

.

Foot Path that took us to the village

Foot Path that took us to the village

Finally back to civilization

Finally back to civilization

Luckily we had Landuyaya – Balngoda bus to reach main road. It was a strenuous experience for both of us as beginners. Sadly we didn’t see any rabbits on the mountain. I think we manage things very well while we got lost also I think I felt little bit of real feeling of being LOST. That is also good experience for both of us.

The End.

Thank you for reading My Trip report.

 

Along the Footsteps of Our Ancestors – Pulathisipura Chapter 1…

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Year and Month 16 Apr, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Athula and Me
Accommodation New Ranketha Rest, Polonnaruwa
Transport By Car and on foot.
Activities Archaeology, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent except for a shower between 3pm and 4pm. Nevertheless it was extremely hot with temperatures as high as 39 degrees.
Route Pitakotte->Rajagiriya->Dematagoda->Katunayake (via E3)->Awariwatte->Minuwangoda->Kurunegala (No. 5 Bus Route)->Dambulla->Habarana->Polonnaruwa.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Check on the weather before travelling.
  • Ranketha Hotel is a good place a little away from the town center with comfortable rooms with AC and hot water. You can contact them on 027-4929078/86, 0766-188199 or 0712-609691 (Mr. Thomas).
  • It’s essential to do a pre-plan before the journey jotting down the list of things for you to see. For those who can’t bother or don’t have the time, check out this link on Amazing Lanka.
  • Unlike A’Pura, nearly all the Archeological Attractions are located within a dedicated area where it’s easy to travel and visit.
  • The Archeology Site is open from 7am to the public.
  • If you travel on foot, entrance is free of charge and by a vehicle, it’ll be Rs. 50/- for the vehicle. (I find this is too lenient and cheap. These kinda things shouldn’t be shown to the public, except the school kids, for free or such a low rate.)
  • Check the instructions given and displayed next to the archaeological remains before entering or picturing them.
  • You have to remove shoes and hats to enter most of the places. So be mindful about it coz most of the people enter them without knowing.
  • Please, please don’t try to touch the Stone Pillars, Walls or anything coz they’re wasted away at a faster rate as a result of this. Enjoy them and take pics but keep your distance from them.
  • It’s prohibited to use Flash when taking pics inside the Thivanka Image House as it damages the already peeling away painitings.
  • Don’t leave anything behind such as plastic bottles, biscuit & toffee wrappers, skins of fruits, etc. around the place as they attract so many monkeys which destroy the archaeological sites and may even harm the visitors.
  • Carry plenty of water and Vitamin C supplements.
  • Be careful if and when bathing in canals and tanks. Always follow the signs and check with the villagers before jumping in.
  • Don’t at any time feed the monkeys or any animal in or out of the area. Follow the same rule wherever you go. Those wild animals know and have to find their own meals from the forests not be fed by us.
  • This is intended purely as a guide to the Archaeological Attractions in Polonnaruwa. I hope our children will benefit from this.
  • Protect the Nature and don’t litter.
  • There’s some charity work should anyone is interested. Most of the information boards are peeling off and almost invisible. If someone can sponsor to redo them, it’d be greatly beneficial for the public.
  • A detailed map of the Archaeological Site will be really useful. There are vendors who sell books which have the map in details.
  • A very big thank-you to the people including the archeology officials for keeping this site remarkably well and for all the restoration work. May you have the resources and funds to keep up your good work.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Lanka, a country that has seen everything for more than 3000 years, boasts plenty of things worth seeing in this tiny space of 65,000+ sq. km of land. We have practically everything a nature loving person is craving for, from mountains to rivers to waterfalls to forests to farmlands to ancient ruins and so much more scattered all around. There’s not a square foot of land or even the sea which can be ignored. That’s what we at Lakdasun are attempting to do, to show you the value of our country and where you can go see the magic of the Mother Nature unfolding before your eyes. Not only that, we also try to show you the Marvels of the Ancient History created by our own ancestors when the rest of the civilizations across the globe were nothing but barren landscapes.

Moving on to the story, I guess I’ve got to go see some of those creations by our ancestors as most of the time it’s the wonders of Mother Nature I have been visiting. When it comes to ancient creations or ruins as many of us call them, we are unbeatable. No other country in the whole world can claim they have more things to show for than we have. We’ve many things found all around the country built many years ago that even the archaeology department finds it difficult to cope with. Unfortunately for us, they are heavily understaffed and underfunded making it extremely hard for them to keep an eye out for the excavated ruins and maintain them. This further hampers their efforts to dig other unexplored areas to unearth many more things built by our ancestors.

After the Portuguese invasion in 1505, followed by Dutch and the English till 1948; for over four centuries, most of our treasures were stolen by them and taken to their countries. Even to date, they are shamelessly being displayed in their museums and our government is helpless to try and retrieve them. The proud nature, creativity and all the other skills of our countrymen have since been shot to pieces. Our culture was slowly blended with the useless foreign ways making it a hybrid one which is far from healthy. We were divided according to our races, religions and anything imaginable so that they could control us easily. We’re suffering now as a result of those wicked actions. Unfortunately, the politicians paid little attention to these things after the independence making the problems increase dramatically.

Well, I guess I’ve unburdened myself somewhat and before this turns into a socio-political-economic article, I’ll divert to the story at hand. Many people have selected areas where they like to explore. Some want to go see Waterfalls, others only interested in Hiking, and a few rare types are keen on seeing the ancient things. If you ask me, I’d say I’m cosmopolitan when it comes to traveling. I’ve no selected places or things that I love to see. True, I’m very much passionate about waterfalls, yet when it comes to traveling, I can live with practically anything from mountains to waterfalls to caves to archeology to etc.

So after a year of mainly visiting waterfalls (I’ve got 17 Tour de Waterfalls), as the rains eased I decided to change focus and do something else. It’s been a long time since I wanted to go visit Polonnaruwa but kept getting postponed due to this or that. Finally, after a long vacation at Rozella I put in my suggestion to Atha about a quick 2-day trip to Polonnaruwa. As he too was on holiday and had nothing better to do than visiting relations, we agreed on 16-17 April. The sun was ferocious making it a punishment to stay at home during the day. The temperatures were nearly always in mid-thirties so the thought of going to the dry zone in Polonnaruwa was unfathomable. However, we were not gonna be shied away from that. So finally we decided to go enjoy this beauty to the fullest and bring you a detailed report on her treasures unearthed so far.

Unlike other archeological cities, it’s so much easier to see things in Polonnaruwa as they are located in a small area within walking distance; that is if you don’t mind walking about 4-6km from this to the other. There are around 40-50 significant places you can visit within the whole premises. It’s well signposted and maintained by the archeological officials. The road inside are good and can be driven very easily. They even have dedicated car parks where you can leave them and go see the ruins. This Ancient City of Polonnaruwa is declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO.

However, on a personal note, I think allowing the vehicles to enter the premises should be prohibited coz the noise of them and the toxic and chemicals released by them could be harmful to the historical relics. Instead, we could use electric golf cart like vehicles or foot cycles.  It’ll be more environmentally friendly if we adopted such things.

So we booked the Ranketha Hotel over the phone (thanks to Niroshan) and left around 4.30am for Polonnaruwa. The drive was largely uninterrupted and we drove along the Katunayake Highway then followed the road to Kurunegala, Dambulla and Habarana. Most of the shops were closed due to New Year so we had trouble finding a place for breakfast. Finally passing Digampathaha we found a place by the road. They were making hot hot Roti with even hotter Lunu Miris and tasty Dhal Curry. We ate a few with some rice before continuing our journey. Sigiriya and Pidurangala rocks were rising to the sky to our right beyond the Digampathaha Sanctuary. I got a sudden urge to once again climb that majestic rock.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Minneriya Reservoir.
  2. Giritale Tank.
  3. Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

We drove past the Minneriya National Park and stopped to take a few picture of the reservoir which was full due to the intermittent rains. Here are some pictures for you to see.

First stop

First stop

Water levels up

Water levels up

Distant view

Distant view

Trying to make a living

Trying to make a living

Water was overflowing

Water was overflowing

Usually this area is a large grassland but now full of water

Usually this area is a large grassland but now full of water

Hi sexy ladies!

Hi sexy ladies!

We continued along the A11 towards Polonnaruwa but met another beautiful and breath-taking tank once again among the thousands of them in North Central. This time it was Giritale Tank which is believed to have been built by King Agbo II sometime in the 7th century. It was a sight worth seeing and taking pictures so without so much as a second thought we stopped to find a typical watery bird (Kirala in Sinhala) looking for something to eat walking along the road. Here you go, check them out and see would you too have stopped?

Giritale, gorgeous than ever

Giritale, gorgeous than ever

On the hunt

On the hunt

Oh hi!

Oh hi!

Portrait

Portrait

Islands in the middle adding colors

Islands in the middle adding colors

Window

Window

Having mesmerized, we went straight to the hotel and leaving our baggage, returned straight to the archeological site. This is when I got another shock. Entering into the archaeological site is free for the locals where as they only have to pay Rs. 50/- per vehicle. This is something I believe should be changed. I don’t think any of this should be shown for free even for the locals. They must charge something from them and can give an exemption for the school kids in uniform.

Whatever you see or get for free has no value at all. This only allows people who have really purpose or means to just go and stray about making at times a nuisance to the genuine travelers. I hope they’ll take this into consideration in future. Before we go into the details, I’ll just show you one of the monkeys posing. In fact the archeological site is plagued with them. They’ve been in there since the human occupation and continue to thrive on.

Common sight in the archeological site

Common sight in the archeological site

Ok, let’s get down to business coz I’ve got so many pictures to show you on the first day. We first drove towards the Inner Citadel. Mr. Thomas at the Ranketha Hotel said it’d only take 3 hours to see everything there is to see. If only he knew that Atha and I walked for more than 15 hours in the unforgiving sun with nothing but a bottle of water. Well, he’s right in a way coz if you just drive through or ride a bicycle, it can be covered in 3 hours but not the way I planned and did it. Even after the 15 hours, we had covered maybe a little over three quarters of the documented sites. Let’s first check what we saw on the first day.

Things we saw inside the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa

Inside the Citadel: 

  1. Stone Scripture at the North Entrance to the Citadel.
  2. King Parakramabahu Council Chamber.
  3. Kumara Pokuna.
  4. King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace.
  5. King Vijayabahu’s Palace.

Off Parakrama Samudraya: 

  1. Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila.
  2. Pothgul Viharaya.
  3. Parakrama Samudraya.

Outer Citadel: 

  1. Shiva Devalaya No. 1.

Dalada Maluwa: 

  1. Thuparama.
  2. Nissanka Latha Mandapaya.
  3. Bodhisattva Statue.
  4. Wester Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.
  5. Velikkara Tamil Inscription.
  6. Atadage.
  7. Hatadage.
  8. Watadage.
  9. Galpotha (Stone Inscription).
  10. Sathmahal Prasada.
  11. Pohoya Geya aka Chapter House.
  12. Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.

Outer Citadel: 

  1. Shiva Devalaya No. 2.
  2. Unnamed Ruins.
  3. Pabalu Vehera.

On the way to the Hotel: 

  1. Sunset at Parakrama Samudraya.

An impressive list this is, isn’t it? Wait till you get the Chapter 2 and see the complete set of things we saw within two days. However, we all know our ancestors built these things and left them for us to see. If it wasn’t for our archeologists and the department, these things wouldn’t have been protected like this for us to go see. Most of the buildings had been either burnt or destroyed by the stinking South Indian invaders and then left to be overgrown by the trees.

The archeology department later on had excavated them and restored to the former glory as best as they can. If you buy one of those books being sold at the premises, you can see the state of all those historical relics before restoration. Even today, they go to great pains to keep them protected. So you’re kindly requested to help them do it and do your bit so that these things will be there for the generations to come.

Let me introduce the rulers of Polonnaruwa coz it’s important to try and know them before we go into details. They are the ones who built and destroyed this great city.

Rulers of Polonnaruwa including the South Indian invaders: Kingdom of Polonnaruwa (1056-1212)

 

“Chola” Invaders – South Indian Invaders – 1017-1070

King Vijayabahu I – 1056-1111

King Jayabahu I – Brother & Chief Minister of Vijayabahu I – 1110-1111

King Wickramabahu I – Son of Vijayabahu I – 1111-1132

King Gajabahu II – Son of Wickramabahu I – 1132-1153

King Parakramabahu I – Parakramabahu the Great – 1153-1186

  • The father of Parakramabahu, Manabharana was the son of Mitta, who was the sister of Vijayabahu I. The mother of Parakramabahu was Rathnavalee who was a daughter of Vijayabahu I. He’s the grandson of Vijayabahu I.

King Vijayabahu II – Son of Parakramabahu’s sister – 1186-1187

King Mahinda VI – Arrived from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1187

  • He reigned as the king only for 5 days.

King Nissanka Malla – Son-in-law of Parakramabahu I – 1187-1196

  • King Nissanka Malla is accused of claiming other kings’ work as his and boasting about them by leaving many stone inscriptions all around.

King Weerabahu I – Son of Nissanka Malla – 1196

King Wickramabahu II – Younger brother of Nissanka Malla – 1196

King Chodaganga – A nephew of Nissanka Malla – 1196-1197

Queen Leelawathie – Wife (Widow) of Parakramabahu I – 1197-1200

King Sahasa Malla – A brother of Nissanka Malla – 1200-1202

Queen Kalyanawathie – Second wife of Nissanka Malla – 1202-1208

King Dharmasoka – Was made king at the age of 3 months – 1208-1209

  • He was made king by the General Ayasmantha after disposing Queen Kalyanawathie. He was later succeeded by his father Anikanga.

 

King Anikanga – Father of Dharmasoka – 1209

Queen Leelawathie – Second time – 1209-1210

Lokeshwara – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1210-1211

Queen Leelawathie – Third time – 1211-1212

Parakrama Pandya – Invader from Pandya Kingdom, India – 1212-1215

Kalinga Magha – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1215-1236

 

If you’ve got familiar, we can go on. It’s very interesting to know how the name came about to this city. The ancient name is Pulathisirpura or Pulathisinuwara which is derived after the Sage Guardian Pulasthi. The name Polonnaruwa is believed to be a combination of “Pulun” (Cotton Wool) and “Maruwa” (Exchange). Now let’s go see what this glamorous city has to offer.

Inside the Citadel

We drove on and parked our vehicle among many others. To my surprise there were so many tourists both local and foreign. Vendors were busy trying to attract their attention away from the relics. Guides kept talking louder giving all the information about the things and the history trying to outsmart the fellow rivals. It was so hot and people paid little attention to what the guides had to say. Instead they were concentrating on keeping out of the scorching heat. Some people kept punching on their mobiles and tabs checking their Facebook accounts not giving a toss about the things in front of them.

We parked our vehicle and walked back to the entrance to the citadel to begin our thorough and systematic exploration of the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa. So let’s get started.

Stone Scripture @ the North Entance

As soon as you enter the citadel (turning to your right); you’ll see this at the entrance to the left of it. None of the tourists bothered to stop here or check what this was. They all wanted to go see the Gal Viharaya, nothing else. Let’s see what it says before going and see what it really looks like:

Polonnarua Slab Inscription at the North Entrance to the Citadel.

Reign: Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD)

Period: 12th Century AD

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Sanskrit & Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

Inscription includes a description of virtues of King Nissanka Malla and mentions that the members of the Kalinga Royal Dynasty who protected its subjects with good governance were the most suitable to be kings. It also mentions persons from the Kalinga Royalty should be the kings of Sri Lanka and those of Govi Caste and non-Buddhist princes from Cola or Kerala are not fit to claim legacy to the throne. The people who show allegiance to those who have no right to Royalty will be treated as traitors.”

Entering

Entering

Boundary wall

Boundary wall

North Entrance

North Entrance

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here it is but not many people take the trouble to stop by

Here it is but not many people take the trouble to stop by

Closer

Closer

Carving on the base of the back

Carving on the base of the back

King Parakramabahu Council Chamber

We then walked inside and arrived at the King Parakramabahu Audience Hall. This really is an impeccably created structure now restored by the archeology department. The steps up to the hall are supported by the typical Korawakkgala with a beautiful Moonstone at the base. Remaining pillars boast the carvings of the ancient artists with beautiful stone carvings such as Lotus and many others. There is a square-shaped pit in front of the chamber which is where the prisoners were kept until they were called in.

Contents:

An inscription found on stone slab at the upper level of the flight of steps of the building identifies the building as Raja Vaishyabhujanga Mandapa, the council chamber of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.). It has three consecutive tiers faced with decorated stone slabs. The roof supported on stone pillars of the upper most tier probably had wooden members and covered with clay tiles. The investigations have revealed that the present form of the building may have been a result of a renovation, probably during the Dambadeniya Period (13th century A.D.).”

The prison pit

The prison pit

Pretty deep

Pretty deep

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Had to wait more than half hour to get this

Had to wait more than half hour to get this

Thanks to the Archeology Dept, it's now restored

Thanks to the Archeology Dept, it’s now restored

One of the many moonstones

One of the many moonstones

Guard stones

Guard stones

Closer look at the mythical creature

Closer look at the mythical creature

Resemblance to Yapahuwa

Resemblance to Yapahuwa

Up among the pillars

Up among the pillars

Artwork on the pillars

Artwork on the pillars

After 900 years they are still looking amazing

After 900 years they are still looking amazing

Some more

Some more

Clever bit of restoration

Clever bit of restoration

From the side

From the side

Elephant carvings

Elephant carvings

Let's go see the Kumara Pokuna

Let’s go see the Kumara Pokuna

One of the many wells

One of the many wells

Kumara Pokuna

We then walked on towards the Kumara Pokuna (Prince’s Pond). It was so difficult to take a clear picture of anything as the sea of people kept swaying from one end to the other. I had to stand in the hot sun for ages until they clear for a fraction of a second to take a single picture. By the end of the day, I’d been so sunburnt I scarcely recognized myself. Kumara Pokuna was no exception. There were many people bustling about.

However most of the people had no idea what this was (we heard many refer to this as “Kuttam Pokuna”). All they wanted to do was see whatever is there and get out of the sun and go take a dip in a channel. All we had to do was be patient and wait till they go. Most of the time there was a wave after wave of people coming making us sweat it out. Close by was a changing room and a washing place as well. The sluice gate is now almost blocked by the earth where they removed water.

Contents:

This royal bath now known as the Kumara Pokuna, must be the pond named Sila Pokkharani referred to in the Mahavamsa as built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). This area lying outside the citadel may have belonged to King Parakramabahu’s royal parked named Nandana Uyana. The pond elegantly built with a cruciformed ground plan is designed in such manner as to get water from the adjacent watercourse and is also provided with outlets to drain off the used water. The pavilion near the pond must have been served as a changing room.”

The wall around the Citadel

The wall around the Citadel

Almost gone

Almost gone

Steps going downhill to the pond

Steps going downhill to the pond

Still standing solidly

Still standing solidly

There's the magic

There’s the magic

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

From the front

From the front

Walking around

Walking around

You can't get to the steps, it's blocked thankfully

You can’t get to the steps, it’s blocked thankfully

Looks like clay tiles

Looks like clay tiles

Pitawana or sluice gates where the excess water was removed

Pitawana or sluice gates where the excess water was removed

Changing room

Changing room

Here it is

Here it is

Everything is fit for a king

Everything is fit for a king

Upper section

Upper section

Probably where they did the washing

Probably where they did the washing

Lord Gana Statue nearby

Lord Gana Statue nearby

A whole lot more to see

A whole lot more to see

King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace

We were already sweating like pigs but there was so much more to see. Climbing back up to the main complex we walked towards the Royal Palace of Parakramabahu the Great. This is believed to have built into 7 stories but today we can only see up to the 3rd story. There are huge square-shaped holes in the walls to prove that there were wooden beams supporting the floors.

In one of the groups, one grandmother said to her grandson when he was walking past towards the foundations of the buildings that there was nothing to see. “Ohe mukuth balanna ne”. My dear grandma, what would you have expected to see? King Parakramabahu galloping away on his royal horse? What you could have instead said was “Balanna issara rajawaru karala thiyena dewal”. See what our ancient kings have done and built. I guess it was the same with many parents and adults. They have very little interest in the archeological remains so invariably the kids will take after them.

So I’m requesting all the parents and adults those who take their kids to places like these to be more thorough. Do take a genuine interest yourself then only you can convey a positive message to your kids. Please make sure you teach them the correct thing. Read the sign postings placed next to each and every place. There were many people coming and asking me what that particular place was when the description is clearly given next to the site.

So if you visit this place, do it in a fruitful manner and don’t rush through them like in a 100m-relay. Take time to appreciate our ancestors’ work, imagine yourself when those buildings were occupied and along those paths, horses galloped making that signature tuck-tuck noise. Flame lit pathways with watchers walking along the city wall. Go back to those times and enjoy it. Live it in your thoughts and make them into words, tell your children how glamorous their lives must have been. Then only our future generations will understand the real value of these things and protect them with their lives.

This palace apparently was seven storied (must’ve been the tallest building in the whole world by then) with thousand rooms. Would you believe that now? One thousand rooms? Just imagine the sheer size of the whole building. Oh my goodness, I simply can’t imagine how glamorous this must’ve been in the past. Simply unbelievable but knowing King Parakramabahu, anything was possible at the time. Shouldn’t this be named as one of the wonders of the world? I certainly think so but a pity there’s so little remains at the present.

Contents:

This edifice is said to be the palace of King Parakramabahu the Great and called as Vijayantha Prasada” of Sathbumupaya. This elaborated and decorated palace was a seven storied building with thousand rooms.”

Contents:

This is the seven storied palace named Vaijayanthi or Vijayanthi Prasada built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) in Polonnaruwa. The name is that of the Palace of God Sakra and its adoption here indicates that there may have been a need at the time to secure the concept that the King and the God were equal. The basic ground plan of the palace is similar to the 12th century Vijayabahu Palce at Anuradhapura and the palaces at Panduwasnuwara and Yapahuwa. Remains of the three stories of the supposed seven stories can still be identified. Crevices and the sockets on the thick brick walls were to take in large wooden beams. There is evidence that this palace may have been destroyed by fire. Mahavamsa mentions that this had thousand chambers. Around the palace, ruins of many buildings are seen which may have been used as places for rituals and entertainment, and as rooms for palace aides and storage.”

In brief

In brief

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Distant view

Distant view

Walking closer

Walking closer

See the holes where the timber beams must've been

See the holes where the timber beams must’ve been

Interior

Interior

See the garnished walls

See the garnished walls

A shrine?

A shrine?

From the other side

From the other side

Walking away from it

Walking away from it

Surrounding buildings

Surrounding buildings

It must've had so many wings

It must’ve had so many wings

Further back

Further back

Those paths are lined with bricks

Those paths are lined with bricks

Solidly built

Solidly built

Some more

Some more

Short walls remaining

Short walls remaining

That plaster is more than an inch thick

That plaster is more than an inch thick

A well

A well

Flock of  birds gave us a welcome

Flock of birds gave us a welcome

King Vijayabahu Palace & Surrounding Buildings

Our next stop was the King Vijayabahu’s Palace located sandwiched between King Parakramabahu’s Council Chamber and the Palace. There was only the foundation was visible with surrounding remains of other buildings. Unfortunately, there was no signage giving details like others Here enjoy them too.

What little remains of King Vijayabahu Palace

What little remains of King Vijayabahu Palace

Remains further beyond

Remains further beyond

Kumara pond is behind me

Kumara pond is behind me

One of the many huge trees

One of the many huge trees

Ok, our journey inside the Citadel is over now to Pothgul Vihara

Ok, our journey inside the Citadel is over now to Pothgul Vihara

Gosh, I have a thirst that would slay a camel. Already one 1.5 liter water bottle is gone and we had one more in the car being boiled in the heat. It’s gone past 12 noon. Our cameras were flashing warning signals of draining battery. We’ve been on the trot for nearly 2 hours but far from covering even a quarter. We decided to go see the Pothgul Viharaya and the majestic statue near the Parakrama Samudra, one of the most controversial statues in Sri Lanka.

We realized we hadn’t had anything after breakfast but I had fortunately bought two packets of biscuits. We simply couldn’t waste any time going and having lunch at a hotel. There was yet so much more to see so decided to skip lunch and head straight to Pothgul Viharaya. There are three more items in my list there. This is also one of the few things which are located out of the main complex. It’s about 6km from the archeology site and the last 2km along the Parakrama Samudraya’s dam giving us a sensational view of it.

We decided to do just that and see what the afternoon and evening bring. There was a hint of rain in the afternoon and we got to know it’d been raining steadily in the evenings. Without wasting any more time, folks, why don’t you too hop in and let’s go rock-n-roll rather get roasted in the sun.

Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila

We arrived at the Pothgul Vihara Complex. Ice Cream vendors were selling their products without stopping to take a breath due to the heat. The demand was so great that they simply kept on selling one after the other. Our first attraction was the Pothgul Vihara Statue which is believed to be of King Parakramabahu but many archeological scholars believe this to be one of the sages in the past, Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. Well, nothing is confirmed as yet so your guess is as good as mine. There’s also a mound of earth which is believed to have been a Stupa closer to the statue.

Let’s go see what makes this a grandeur creation. Fortunately, now the statue has got a roof sheltering it from the sun and rain. I saw they’re in the process of doing the same at Aukana. However, little did I know whether if it’s a good thing coz if a shelter was required, I’m sure those who built it must have thought it over and added at the same time. Who knows if these statues really need the sun and the rain? Well, I’m no expert in this field but this is just a passing thought that occurred to my wandering mind. I hope the archeology department has taken them as well into their consideration.

Contents:

This statue at Pothgul Vihara is regarded as a superb example of Asian Art. Traditionally, it is believed to be that of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But some scholars believe that it represents a sage and that it could be Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. A special feature is the object in the hands of the statue, which many believed to be a palm leaf manuscript and that represents the erudition of the holder. Another view has also been expressed that it is a yoke representing sovereignty.”

Many of these are on sale all around... They're built using machines

Many of these are on sale all around… They’re built using machines

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here we are

Here we are

Despite some peeling away, it looks very impressive

Despite some peeling away, it looks very impressive

Front view

Front view

Upper body up close

Upper body up close

A bit closer

A bit closer

The feet

The feet

Nearby Pagoda remains

Nearby Pagoda remains

Pothgul Vihara Complex

We then went towards the Pothgul Vihara Complex which is believed to be the oldest library in Sri Lanka. Of course, I saw remains of a library in Ritigala too and it could be the oldest but I guess it is just a guess that must be why this Pothugul Vihara, as the name suggests, could be the oldest. There were many people walking around but not many seemed to go towards the complex itself. They were quite content to come see the statue and then go off. This suited us really well as it gave an easy photo taking opportunity.

Let’s go folks coz I feel my blood is being boiled inside and I might at any time faint. We’ve finished both our 1.5-litre water bottles and now must go get a 5-litre can to pass the rest of the journey. My skin has turned into leather after hours of being burnt with no sun cream. So be prepared if you come my friends.

Contents:

Among the ruins of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Pothgul Vihara Monastic Complex is furthest to the south. Although it is popularly known as Pothgul Vihara, whether it is the ancient name of the complex is doubted. Some scholars believe this could be either Kapila Vihara or Mandala Mandira built by the King Parakrambahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). As its name suggests, this could be the oldest library complex ever found in the island. The peculiar feature of this site is the circular brick building located in the square central terrace. Evidence suggests that the roof itself had been made of bricks and the inner walls contained paintings. On the four sides of this building, four circular mounds are seen which may be the associate stupas, and on the lower terrace are seen square or rectangular residential cells. Shrines of similar designs are seen in South East Asian countries and this particular site seems very much closer to the Minbien Shrine of Cambodia.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Structures around the main complex

Structures around the main complex

Most of the signs are almost gone. You can help bring them back if possible

Most of the signs are almost gone. You can help bring them back if possible

The remains of a chamber in front

The remains of a chamber in front

Camouflage

Camouflage

The boundary walls

The boundary walls

Here's the view

Here’s the view

As we were going up

As we were going up

Most of it gone

Most of it gone

Entering the main chamber

Entering the main chamber

Circular walls

Circular walls

From inside, that doorframe is solidly built with granite

From inside, that doorframe is solidly built with granite

Surrounding pagodas

Surrounding pagodas

Walking towards the back

Walking towards the back

Many chambers like this all around, probably monks' living places

Many chambers like this all around, probably monks’ living places

From behind

From behind

The statue from the distance through trees

The statue from the distance through trees

Parakrama Samudraya

Our car was like an oven. Heat was such had we left some row flow mixed with yeast and water, it’d’ve been turned into crispy bread within minutes. Most of the travelers were resting under the shades of the trees sucking and licking ice cream. We made a decision not to pursue any more for the time being. Instead, go to the hotel, have a wash and chill out in the AC for a while and then go back to the outer Citadel in the late afternoon.

It appealed to both of us and there was no one else to argue the point, even the car felt happy about it so we drove on along the Parakrama Samudraya Bund. This is another of our attractions so we had to stop to take the pictures of the beauty.

On a different note, there has been some big controversy over a luxury hotel in the area not allowing the full capacity to be filled as it floods their hotel. Whether it is true or not is still not known for certain. Newspapers and media have been having a field day over this. I guess it’s the duty of the responsible people to look into this manner and reveal the truth.

Contents:

Parakrama Samudra or Sea of Parakram is a combination of three main separate reservoirs or tanks connected with channels. They are Topa, Eramudu and Dumbutulu Tanks which have been linked to create this massive body of water making the lifeline of people in Polonnaruwa. In addition to them, Kalahagala and Bhu Tanks are also a part of the main reservoir. There are separate dams built for those reservoirs as well in order to reduce the pressure on the main dam. All around the reservoir, there are many other small tanks serving two main purposes. Taking the excess water and topping up the primary tanks.

During reconstruction of the Parakrama Samudraya, the water which was supposed to come to the Thopa Wewa has started flowing to the Bhu Wewa. Then the engineers constructed a temporary dam to block the water flowing to the Bhu Wewa. This temporary dam then became a permanent road and resulted in isolating Kalahagala Wewa and Bhu Wewa from Parakrama Samudraya. This new reconstruction has apparently ignored most of the ancient technology thus reduced the capacity of the main reservoir.

The dam of Parakrama Samudray is 12.38km in length and 9.45m in height. The capacity is 134.07 M.C.M and the area at F.S.L is 2539.50 hectares. At the end of the dam and further along the canal which feeds the Parakrama Samudraya is “Angammedilla”. This is where the Amban Ganga is diverted towards the reservoir. Towards the evening, this is a popular roaming ground for the jumbos.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Along the bund

Along the bund

Rest House is that way

Rest House is that way

Sluice gates to the channel

Sluice gates to the channel

Closer to the Pothgul Vihara

Closer to the Pothgul Vihara

Making a living

Making a living

Look at those clump of clouds

Look at those clump of clouds

Water gushing out of the reservoir

Water gushing out of the reservoir

Ok, now for the afternoon siesta

Ok, now for the afternoon siesta

We arrived at the hotel around 1.45pm and had a long wash before turning the AC full on. It had to do over time to cool the room to a reasonable temperature. Surprisingly despite not having anything since breakfast, we didn’t feel hungry. The bed was nice and comfortable with a soft enough pillow. I set the alarm to 3pm coz I knew we were not gonna get up once comfortably in bed. I guess you too must be tired and feeling the heat. Take a break and have a cup of coffee before coming to the evening fiesta. Remember, we’ve seen only a fraction of the things in the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Evening Fiesta

The alarm woke me with a start and I had no clue as to where we were. The memories came flooding and I jumped out of the bed and waking Atha, got dressed. The clouds had gathered while we were snoring and now looked ready to come down at any second. Gosh, we had no umbrella. Nevertheless we drove on and found we were hungry. Thankfully small packet of Lemon Puff came to the rescue which we bit into during the drive.

Once again we were back at the entrance to the archaeological site and bought the customary Rs. 50/- ticket. This time we turned to the left and drove on for about 100m before coming to the car park right in front of the Dalada Maluwa which houses many wonderful creations. It was just a matter of time for the rain so we hurriedly walked towards the Shiva Kovil No. 1 just outside the Dalada Maluwa.

Near the car park in front of Dalada Maluwa

Near the car park in front of Dalada Maluwa

Shiva Kovil No. 1

Located just as you turn to the left when you visit the outer citadel, this creates a big impression on the viewer. Built solidly with stone but looks like molded ore, you simply can’t believe how precisely they had cut those stones and made all those arts along the walls.  Let’s see what it says about this wonderful creation.

Contents:

The ancient name and the builder of this Hindu shrine are not known. But according to the style of architecture, this may have been built somewhere in the 13th century A.D. As it is located between the Citadel and the Sacred Quadrangle it may have been regarded as an important shrine at the time. The main object of worship is the Stone Lingam in the inner sanctum.”

The Shiva Kovil is to the left

The Shiva Kovil is to the left

Covered by grass

Covered by grass

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

See how nicely they've been put together

See how nicely they’ve been put together

Entering, remove the shoes and caps

Entering, remove the shoes and caps

Outer courtyard

Outer courtyard

Over the wall

Over the wall

Inner chamber where Siva Lingam is

Inner chamber where Siva Lingam is

Just before the interior

Just before the interior

Here we are, those square-shaped holes probably were used for the upper roof

Here we are, those square-shaped holes probably were used for the upper roof

Still in use

Still in use

Looking outwards

Looking outwards

Monuments

Monuments

From the side

From the side

Beautifully made

Beautifully made

Lion pictures

Lion pictures

Must've housed a statue

Must’ve housed a statue

Only half of it is remaining

Only half of it is remaining

Pillars

Pillars

Probably used as a drain

Probably used as a drain

Now to the big dream

Now to the big dream

Sacred Quadrangle aka Dalada Maluwa

I’m sure you must’ve been impressed by the stone architecture at the Shiva Kovil. Now is the big thing for the day. There are dozen or so unbelievably impeccable marvels within this Sacred Quadrangle which will blow you away. But before you enter the premises, let’s have a look at one of the wells located nearby. There are a number of them scattered around but our idiotic travelers, locals no doubt, have used them us dumping grounds. We saw a lot of garbage, empty plastic bottles and polythene wrappers in them.

The steps taken by the Horton Plains officials should be used at other places too in order to make sure the careless dumping of polythene and plastic is minimized.

Another well just outside the Dalada Maluwa

Another well just outside the Dalada Maluwa

Bit of water remaining but there was a lot of garbage

Bit of water remaining but there was a lot of garbage

Ok guys, now you’ve taken a look, shall we move on coz greater things await our arrival so we shouldn’t keep our ancestors’ spirits waiting?

Caution: Just remember, you have to remove your shoes and caps before entering all the sites inside the Dalada Maluwa. There are signs pasted all over. It’s not just the Dalada Maluwa but many other places too. Always, keep an eye out for these warnings and please adhere to them by all means.

Ok, are you ready to take your shoes and caps off? So let’s go…

Map of Dalada Maluwa (Source: Amazing Lanka)

Map of Dalada Maluwa (Source: Amazing Lanka)

Thuparama

Our first attraction inside the Dalada Maluwa was Thuparama. Now don’t get confused with the Thuparama Stupa at Anuradhapura. That is a Stupa whereas what we have in Polonnaruwa Sacred Quadrangle is a kind of an image house. This is very much similar to the other grandeur creations like Thivanka Image House and Lankathilaka Image House. Let’s see what it says about this first and then go onto the pictures. Gosh, it’s started raining all of a sudden and I’m grateful for the shelter inside the Thuparama. I can see many people running towards us searching for shelter and it’s gonna be a helluva job taking pictures. To make matters worse, the light has faded a lot and the dim yellowish light inside is not much of a help.

Contents:

Although traditionally known as Thuparama, its ancient name or builder is not known. This is the only monument among those in Polonnaruwa where the roof is well preserved. Structures of this type where the side walls and the roof are made of bricks without using wood are known as Gedige. The ornamentation of the exterior walls shows the influence of South Indian architecture, Vimana-Panjara-Kudu design. There are indications that there had been a giant Buddha image inside but only the large seat now remains.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Under renovation

Under renovation

The building is largely intact comparatively

The building is largely intact comparatively

Guard Stones

Guard Stones

Signs of the brick roof now covered with tin sheets

Signs of the brick roof now covered with tin sheets

High walls

High walls

That entrance is where monks entered and did walking-meditation around the image house but inside

That entrance is where monks entered and did walking-meditation around the image house but inside

Towards Nissanka Latha Mandapa

Towards Nissanka Latha Mandapa

to the right of the image house

to the right of the image house

The left side

The left side

Also on the left side

Also on the left side

This is the seat of the main statue

This is the seat of the main statue

You can see the intact roof built of bricks

You can see the intact roof built of bricks

Around

Around

Will be a sight after renovation

Will be a sight after renovation

The residents

The residents

Frightened

Frightened

Let's go on

Let’s go on

Nissanka Latha Mandapaya

I had a helluva time taking pictures of Thuparama amid the sea of people but I managed to do it somehow. The time is flying but now the rains have stopped and sun is shining once again; let’s go see what else is there. How many of you remember the beautifully carved stone pillars in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud? Well that’s why the Nissanka Latha Mandapay is so special and rated as one of the best creation by our ancestors. It is located near the Western Entrance of the Dalada Maluwa, the area that contains the oldest and most sacred monuments in the city. A nearby stone inscription identifies this as the building used by King Nissanka Malla to listen to Pirith (chanting of Buddhist scriptures).

The structure is an elevated stone platform with a number of stone columns and surrounded by a low stone wall. These stone columns are the unique feature about the Nissanka Latha Manadapaya, since they are carved in a manner that is found nowhere else in the country. The eight granite columns are arranged in two rows, with four in each row. Presumably used to support a roof, each of them is approximately 8 feet 4 inches (2.54 m) in height. In each of these columns, the crown is carved in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud. The rest of the column is elaborately carved to resemble the stem of the flower. Unlike stone columns commonly seen in the architecture of this period, these are not straight, but are curved in three places. According to archaeologist Senarath Paranavithana, the stone columns at the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya are the best examples of this feature of ancient Sri Lankan architecture.

Thankfully it’s now fully covered and you can’t walk inside. It’ll help protect this uniquely shaped structure for many years to come. Well, let’s see what it says on the signage:

Contents:

According to an inscription in situ, this pillared structure could be identified as the Nissankalatha Mandapa. The unusual pillar type stimulates a lotus stalk with flower as the capital. Another inscription confirms that it is here that King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) listened to Pirith, recital of Buddhist scriptures. In the center is a small stone cut stupa, having truncated top perhaps to receive the relic casket during Pirith chanting. This was probably covered with a roof. Pillars of similar design are also found in a building near Sathmahal Prasada.”

Well preserved

Well preserved

Another stone scripture

Another stone scripture

Here it is

Here it is

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

One of my dreams came true at the sight of them

One of my dreams came true at the sight of them

Look at the unique shape

Look at the unique shape

The pillars and the stupa at the center

The pillars and the stupa at the center

There's a square shaped casket on the top where the relics were kept when he was listening to Pirith

There’s a square shaped casket on the top where the relics were kept when he was listening to Pirith

Closer look at the pillar

Closer look at the pillar

Base, slightly damaged

Base, slightly damaged

Main door

Main door

Bodhisattva Statue

Our next attraction was the Bodhisattva Statue placed right in front of the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya between Atadage and Watadage. There was no signage with details but the statue looks very much similar to the Dambegoda Statue. Here are some pictures for you to see. However, there’s also a belief that this could be a statue of King Nissanka Malla.

There it is

There it is

Not clear whether this is King Nissanka Malla or a Bodhisattva Statue

Not clear whether this is King Nissanka Malla or a Bodhisattva Statue

The steps leading to it

The steps leading to it

Reminds me of Dambegoda Statue

Reminds me of Dambegoda Statue

Closer look

Closer look

Western Gate House of the Dalada Maluwa

There are two key gate houses at Dalada Maluwa. One is at the western end behind Nissanka Latha Mandapa and the other is directly opposite (well you don’t have to be a genius to figure that out, do you?) through Atadage, Hatadage and Watadage. There are ruins of buildings closer to the gate house on both ends probably guard houses or even ritual chambers.

Gate house to the West

Gate house to the West

Guard Houses either side

Guard Houses either side

Nissanka Latha Mandapa in the far

Nissanka Latha Mandapa in the far

Steps leading to the exit

Steps leading to the exit

Surrounding buildings

Surrounding buildings

An image house

An image house

Steps of it

Steps of it

Moonstones are there at the entrance of practically every building

Moonstones are there at the entrance of practically every building

Velikkara Inscription

The sandy floor was soaked in water making it tough to walk on. Taking off shoes and walking was somewhat easier. The next in line was a Tamil Inscription named Velikkara Inscription. This is a fairly big one almost 6ft in height and about 3ft in width. Let’s see what it says. I’m sure it’s gonna take a long time for me to type it here but for the sake of our future generations I’ll make that sacrifice. All the contents given on the signage I’ve put in the report coz it’d be difficult for you to read them due to the compress of the size. Here we go:

Velikkara Inscription.

Reign: After the death of Vijayabahu I

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Grantha Tamil and Sinhala

Language: Tamil mixed with Sankrit

Introduction:

The Velikkaras rebelled agains King Vijayabahu (1155-1110 AD) in his 30th year refusing to fight against the Colas and they were punished. It seems that Velikkaras provided protection to the Temple of Tooth even during the early period of Vijayabahu due to the mention of construction of some buildings by them around the Temple of Tooth. Perhaps after the rebellion they were removed being the guards of the Temple of Tooth. After the death of Vijayabahu there were several internal struggles and it is very likely that Mugalan Thera decided to engage Velikkara forces again, for the protection of the Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic of the Buddha, during that turbulent period. The purpose of this inscription is to give an assurance by the Velikkara Soldiers that they would protect the sacred relics and the properties no matter what happened.

Contents:

The Temple of Tooth Relic built by the Commander Nagaragiri Deva on the instructions of King Vijayabahu and the surrounding shrines founded by the Velaikkaras shall be protected by the Velaikkara forces unto the dissolution of the world.

Obeisance to the Buddha in the prosperous island of Lanka King Sirisangabo Vijayabahu scion of the lineage of Iksavaku of the Solar Race gaining victory over many an army entered Anuradhapura. At the request of the Buddhist monks he put on the crown in order to protect the Buddhist religion. The king invited monks from Aramana (Myanmar) and purified the three Nikayas. The king who brought Lanka under a single canopy made donations to the three Nikayas three times equivalent to his own weight (coins) reigned 55 years and lived 73 years.

The Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic which was at the Uttaramula of Abhayagiri Vihara was brought to Pulanari or Vijayarajapura and permanently kept at the Temple of Tooth Relic. The first anointment ceremony (of Vijayabahu) was held there (according to the Culavamsa in the 18th year at Polonnaruwa) which also housed the colossal Buddha Statue, in which is held annually the ceremony of unloosening of sacred eyes and applying collyrium to them.

Rajaguru Mugalan Thera of Uttaramula, who is virtuous and learned, associating himself with the dignitaries came to the spot, called us and said ‘The Tooth Relic Temple should be under your custody’.

Thereupon we convened a meeting along with our elders and named the shrine ‘The great Temple of Tooth Relic belonging to three divisions of Velaikkaras’ and decided that it will remain as our charitable institution under our own custody. For the protection of the shrine one servitor from each of the (three divisions) was appointed and one veli of land was allocated for the maintenance of each person. We shall protect the villages, the retainers and the property belonging to the shrine, as well as those who enter for refuge; even it is detrimental to us. We shall endeavor as long as our lineage exists and even if we suffer deeper than we have suffered already.

To attest this we have delivered over (to Mugalan Thera), having had it engraved on copper plate and also engraved on stone, so that it may last as long as the sun and the moon endure.

Accordingly anyone who infringes (what is stated above) or consent to infringes or tell others to infringe becomes our enemy, who has committed an offence against Matantra, committed five great sins, a great sinner who had appropriated what was offered to gods, committed an offence against the (Triple) gem, who will enter the hell.”

Oh my gosh, my fingers are dancing now having typed without stopping all that in one go. Just wait coz I’ve got to give a massage to the poor fingers before I go on.

Pooh, that was tough but I’m happy coz that lasted so long after engraving on stone and hopefully this article will last longer until the internet is there unless something like a mega tsunami or an earthquake occurs. Let’s go see the pictures.

So tall

So tall

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

More than 6ft

More than 6ft

Tamil letters

Tamil letters

The base of it

The base of it

Atadage

One of the three Dages inside the Dalada Maluwa is Atadage. In addition to this, there is Hatadage and Watadage in the close vicinity. You know my fingers hurting so let’s go straight and see what it says on the signage.

But hang on, did you ever think why this is called Atadage? I’m sure you did but might not have found a reasonable answer. Here lemme offer you with two plausible explanations.

Legend:

“Ata” in Atadage means eight. In this case this building would have been called by this name probably because of it housed eight relics including the main Tooth and Bowl Relics or because it was completed in eight days. It is possible that this was built in eight days as there are indications that this building has used parts of other buildings in Anuradhapura era. The moonstone is a good example. This has been brought from Anuradhapura to be placed here.

Well, nobody is sure as to what made it call Atadage but those two will suffice for the time being.

Contents:

This is the oldest building in the Sacred Quadrangle. This may be identified as the Temple of Tooth Relic built by King Vijayabahu the Great (1155-1110 AD). This was a two storied building and in the upper floor were deposited the Sacred Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic. The upper floor was probably made of timber and the roof had wooden beams and was covered with clay tiles. Near the building is an inscription in Tamil Grantha script which says that the protection of the Sacred Tooth Relic had been entrusted to the Velaikkara soldiers who were the king’s private guards.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Entering

Entering

See the distant statue?

See the distant statue?

Typical entrance

Typical entrance

Guard stones

Guard stones

Rocky door frames

Rocky door frames

Remaining pillars

Remaining pillars

Standing Buddha

Standing Buddha

Only the feet are remaining

Only the feet are remaining

Artistic pillars

Artistic pillars

Some of the artwork up close

Some of the artwork up close

Unbelievable

Unbelievable

What about this?

What about this?

Hatadage

What do you think about the Atadage folks? Pretty impressive ain’t it? Ok, you’ve seen nothing much yet coz I’ve got plenty more to show you. Let’s move on to Hatadage now. Remember, there’s Watadage yet to come. Oh come on, wake up now coz I can see you’re beginning to fall asleep. There’s time to sleep children, now stay awake.

Let’s see how the Hatadage name came about. The theory is somewhat similar to the Atadage but with an extraordinary feat if it is true.

Legend:

The Hatadage was built by King Nissanka Malla (1187–1196), as a shrine to house the Relic of the tooth of the Buddha. Several historical sources including the Rajavaliya, Poojavaliya and the Galpotha Inscription itself mention that it was built in sixty hours. Since the Sinhalese word Hata means sixty and Dage means Relic Shrine, it is possible that the structure was named Hatadage to commemorate this feat. Another theory is that it is so named because it held sixty relics. The tooth relic was presumably kept in the upper store.

The difference is they had built it apparently not in 60 days but 60 hours. Looking at their achievements, anything was possible then. Don’t you think these are great examples to pre-made and assembled structures? Nowadays, engineering boasts about making similar buildings but we had that technology more than 900 years ago, probably more. This is why our typical villagers keep saying “Api Owa Heduwa Suddha Weddha Kale” (in English, it should say something like this “we built them when the foreigners were premature than even the indigenous ones).

Now let’s look at the sign:

Contents:

This is the Temple of the Tooth built by King Nissankamalla (1187-1196 AD). It is said that it is called Hatadage because it was built within sixty (hata) hours. It has been a two storied building and the upper floor may have contained the Tooth Relic. Among the stone slabs on the walls are three inscriptions of King Nissankamalla of which one has the words “Nissanka Hatadage”. The other inscriptions contain the king’s altruistic activities and advice given to the community of Buddhist monks. The roof may have had wooden beams and covered with clay.”

Key Things in the Hatadage

Porch

Vestibule

Staircase

Sanctum

Standing Buddha Image

Stone Paved Terrace

Parapet Wall

Let’s look at the structure of this:

The shrine is surrounded by a stone wall, 120 feet (37 m) long and 90 feet (27 m) wide. On its southern side is a doorway decorated with stone carvings, leading to a stone paved terrace. The main entrance to the shrine, which is also decorated with stone carvings and a Sandakada Pahana (Moonstone), is directly in front of it. Another smaller doorway is placed on the eastern side of the shrine.

The shrine has had a wooden superstructure with a tiled roof. However, only the walls now remain. The walls of the shrine are made of brick, and the outer walls are covered with stone plates. The main entrance leads to a small chamber, 27 feet (8.2 m) in length and 21 feet (6.4 m) in width. The base of its walls is decorated with designs of lotus flowers and lions. This chamber contains six stone columns and a staircase that had led to the upper floor. The square shaped main chamber is located to the rear of this outer chamber. Each of its sides is 35 feet (11 m) in length and contains four windows. The chamber had contained sixteen stone columns, although only three now remain. At the center of this chamber are three standing Buddha statues carved from granite. These are also partially destroyed. The statue in the middle is 9 feet (2.7 m) in height, while the other two are 7.5 feet (2.3 m) each.

Oh dear, there’s another of those long inscriptions and I’ll put it below for your reference.

Hatadage Inscriptions of Nissanakamalla.

Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

All the three inscriptions are by King Nissankamalla. Two have been found in the shrine and one in the porch.

No. 1

Contents:

The Dharma which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored in the whole world should always be preserved.

King Nissanka Malla was born in Sinhapura of Kalinga of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa. In regular order he was consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka. The King waived taxes for five years and did many meritorious acts. The king toured through the three kingdoms and promoted welfare of the state and the Sasana. Although the king proceeded to Dambadiva (India) and demanded war the Pandyans and the Colas didn’t fight but sent gold, gifts and maidens. Since there were no enemies in this world the king thought to win the enemies of the next world and did many meritorious acts. To venerate the Tooth Relic and Bowl Relic he offered his son Virabahu and his daughter Sarvanga Sundari and for the purpose of redeeming them caused to make a stupa in gold. He also built ‘Vatadageya’, ‘Nissanka Latha Pavilion’, and ‘Nissanka Tooth Relic House’ and dedicated to them many villages, lands and serfs.

May the future kings protect Dharma and secure welfare of both the worlds!

Let it be thus understood by future kings that these are the…

No. 2

Contents:

From the second year of accession King Nissanka Malla toured around Sri Lanka including places such as Samanola (Adam’s Peak). He freed the kingdom from lawlessness thoroughly; that a woman might even carry a casket filled with the nine kinds of gems and not be asked, ‘what is that?’.

After living in a palace built by another king for seven years and seven months he thought it does not fit for his (status). He erected within 45 days a palace of seven stories. He built a magnificent pavilion from which he watched elephant fights. The king built ramparts and gates, three stone pavilions and Kalinga Park.

In the three kingdoms he erected palaces at several places and built stone thrones named ‘Virasimhasana’. He suppressed various administrative injustices. In the cause of thus inspecting the three kingdoms in various ways he fixed a gavu (mileposts) calling it Nissanka-gavu (several of these have been found).

The king made annual donations (in coins) to the poor equivalent to weights of himself, Queen Subhadra, sub-queen Kalyani, sub-king (Virabahu), minister Vikramabahu, Queen Candra, and Their Highnesses Parvati and Sarvanga Sundari.

No. 3

Although the venerable ones, teachers and preceptors practice the established doctrine and discipline, the kings are responsible for the protection of the Sasana of the country for the continuation of the religion for 5000 years. Accordingly for the safety of the Sasana the king thus advises; 

  • The venerable ones who are teachers and preceptors should not, without inquiry, robe foolish, sinus false and crafty persons.
  • They should not do improper things contrary to the teachings of the Buddha.

(The inscription is damaged and the rest cannot be read.)”

Well, I’m not gonna say how hurting my fingers are coz you can guess as much. Let’s go and see the pictures folks.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Entrance, see the removed shoes

Entrance, see the removed shoes

Surrounding wall

Surrounding wall

Look at the window

Look at the window

Typical guard stones

Typical guard stones

Close up of the walls

Close up of the walls

Moonstone

Moonstone

Interior

Interior

There's the main statue

There’s the main statue

Three statues

Three statues

Restored as best as they could

Restored as best as they could

Better shape than the rest

Better shape than the rest

Atadage seen from the interior walls of Hatadage

Atadage seen from the interior walls of Hatadage

Sath Mahal Prasada is there

Sath Mahal Prasada is there

Watadage

This too is another impressive marvel and one of the best preserved thanks to the Archeological Department.

The Polonnaruwa Vatadage, which occupies most of the south western area of the Dalada Maluwa, is a prominent structure among them. It is the best preserved example of a Watadage in the country, and is somewhat similar in design to those belonging to the Anuradhapura Period, especially Thuparamaya and Lankaramaya.

The building has been built around a small stupa with a base diameter of 27 feet 8 inches (8.43 m). The Vatadage has two levels; the lower platform and the raised upper platform that contains the stupa. The upper platform is 80 feet (24 m) in diameter, and the lower one 120 feet (37 m). The lower platform is 4 feet 3 inches (1.30 m) from ground level, and the upper platform is 5 feet 3 inches (1.60 m) from the lower.

Source: Wikipedia

Source: Wikipedia

The circular lower platform is entered through a single entrance on the northern side. Four elaborately constructed doorways lead from it to the upper platform, which is surrounded by a brick wall on its edge. These entrances are oriented to the four cardinal directions. The center of this platform is occupied by the stupa, which has four Buddha statues seated around it, each facing one of the entrances. Each of these statues is 5 feet (1.5 m) high, and is seated on stone seats with a height of 2 feet 10 inches (0.86 m) each. Three concentric rows of stone columns had existed on the upper platform. Two of these rows, of which nothing remains, were within the brick wall, while the third row is just outside it. The inner row had consisted of 16 columns, the middle row of 20, and the outer row of 32. The existing stone columns of the outer ring are about 8 feet (2.4 m) in height.

As usual, I’m gonna tell you what it says on the signage. I’m grateful that there’s very little of text to be extracted. No mile long inscription here.

Contents:

This is one of the architectural marvels of Polonnaruwa. This may have been originally used as the Temple of the Tooth as there is mention of a round relic built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1187 AD). But according to the Galpota (Stone Book) Inscription, King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) has built a Watadage within the quadrangle naming it Ratnagiri Watadage which suggests that at least some renovation or reconstruction work has been done here during King Nissanka Malla’s reign. Just as other Watadages in the island, this too appears as a round building enclosing a stupa at its center. It has taken the present form probably as a result of the renovations or reconstruction works done in the region of King Nissanka Malla or during the Dambadeniya Period (13th Century AD). The roof supported on stone pillars probably had wooden members and covered with tiles. The moonstone and the two guard stones to the north and east respectively maybe cited as the best examples of their kinds in Polonnaruwa.”

Now let’s go and see the pictures of this beautiful structure. The sky had turned royal blue once again and the sun was shining in full force. We’ve couple of more to cover before we call it a day. So let’s hurry it up.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Just look at that

Just look at that

Very clear and nicely preserved moonstone

Very clear and nicely preserved moonstone

Either side of the entrance

Either side of the entrance

The other

The other

Looks bigger than others

Looks bigger than others

Look at those subtle carvings

Look at those subtle carvings

There a better view

There a better view

My favorite pic out of the lot

My favorite pic out of the lot

Must've been an amazing sight in the past

Must’ve been an amazing sight in the past

Closer view

Closer view

Other statues all around

Other statues all around

Pagoda in the center

Pagoda in the center

Walls and clear signs of thick plaster

Walls and clear signs of thick plaster

West entrances

West entrances

Carved pillar

Carved pillar

Out of the east entrance

Out of the east entrance

Getting down

Getting down

Every inch of space is an example of genius craftsmanship

Every inch of space is an example of genius craftsmanship

Ok, move on

Ok, move on

Galpotha (Stone Inscription)

That was wonderful, don’t you agree? We’ve got a couple of things more to cover before we finish exploring the Dalada Maluwa. Next in line is a long and wide stone inscription called Galpotha or Stone Book when directly translated. As usual, this too has been translated and given on the premises for the travelers’ benefits even though only a handful of them take trouble to read it.

You’re gonna have to read it before checking the pictures but of course you can skip it altogether but I wouldn’t recommend it coz it won’t be a fruitful experience should you ignore it. Ok, I’ve had a break and my fingers have had their rest. So let’s go find out what this gigantic inscription reveals. I can promise you one thing, that it’s gonna be really interesting and King Nissanka Malla’s name should be there.

Galpota Slab Inscrtiption.

Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala mixed with Sanskrit

Introduction:

The postscript of the inscription states that the granite block in which it is inscribed was brought from Sagiria (Mihintale) which is about 100km away. The weight of the rock is approximately 15 tons and the dimenstions are 26ft 8in X 4ft 7in X 1ft 9in (av.). This is the longest inscription of King Nissanka Malla. The king has outlined some of his policies and the duties and responsibilities of the subjects in this inscription.

Contents:

Hail! This Dharma, which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored by the whole world, should always be preserved.

Vijaya, the first king of Sri Lanka had come from Kalinga and King Nissanka Malla was also born in Sinhapura of Kalinga, of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa belongs to Okkaka Dynasty and arrived in Sri Lanka 1700 years after Vijaya came to Sri Lanka, on the invitation of the king (Parakramabahu I). (He) then became proficient in Buddhism and in the science of arms and held the positions of regional king and viceroy, before being consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka named Sirisangabo Kalinga Parakramabahu Viraraja Nissankamalla.

After he became king he revoked cetain enactments by previous kings which were unfavourable to the people. The King waived taxes for five years and later imposed reduced taxes than previously, as follows;

Closer section of the paddy fields to the tank – 1 amuna and 3 pala and 6 madaran

Middle section of the fields from the tank – 1 amuna and 1 pala and 3 madaran

Chena cultivation tax and tax on re-cultivating of abandon paddy lands had been discontinued.

The king gave money and wealth to the poor and alleviated poverty. Abandoned reservoirs and channels in the three kingdoms were repaired and thus brought prosperity and security to inhabitants. He established courts of justice and gave wealth to thieves to stop them from thieving. The king got rid of the thorns of the Sasana, held annual ordination, ceremonies and the virtuous monks were given requisites.

The king brought many princesses of Solar and Lunar dynasties from Kalinga for his son, the Viceroy Virabahu for the continuation of the dynasty. He donated annually wealth equivalent to the weights of himself, the Chief Queen Kalinga Subadra, the second Queen Kalyana of Gangavamsa and his son [Virabahu], his daughter Sarvanga Sundari. The people were in readiness to give their lives for the king as proof of their love and loyalty. Performing day after day the ten meritorious acts, he took his residence in the Kalinga city of Polonnaruwa.

Thinking of the injustices done to Sri Lankans in the past he declared war against Colas and Pandyans. When the Pandyans came to know that Commander Lag Vijayasingu Tavuruna himself would command, the Pandyan king and his mother pleaded only some land for their maintenance and sent gifts and royal maidens. Similarly Colas also sent gifts which quenched the flame of his anger. He formed friendly alliances with Karnataka, Nellur, Gauda, Kalinga, Tilinga and Gujarata. From those who did not wish such friendship he struck terror and extracted maidens and tributes from such kingdoms. In Ramesvaram, at a ceremony he bestowed boundless wealth on inhabitants and built a Devala (An inscription of the king has been found in Ramesvaram).

Then reflecting that he had no enemies in this world, he would conquer the enemies of the next world, built many alms-houses and did many meritorious acts. To the Tooth and the Bowl relics he offered his son and daughter and redeemed them by offering a [model of a] dagaba in solid gold together with other valuables. The king had built Temple of Tooth, Watadaga Geya, Nissanka Latha Pavillion, Ruwanweli Stupa (Rankoth Vihara) and four subsidiary stupas at the Maha Vihara [Dimbulagala].

  • The kings are human divinities and must therefore be regarded as gods.
  • King inflicts punishment [to offenders] commensurate with the offence just like a physician applies remedy for a bodily ailment.
  • They restrain [their subjects] from evil and thus save them from falling into hell.
  • For those who do not observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like hell.
  • For those who observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like heaven.
  • The trouble which one undergoes on behalf of kings is like sowing of see of happiness.
  • The people should keep off from all evils.
  • One who protects his wealth should not neglect his family.
  • Though one has fallen from office, one should be loyal to the king like a fruit fallen from the stalk.
  • Talking about the secrets of the kings is like invoking the death by the repetition of charms.
  • He who gives his life for the king will live long in the fram of glory.
  • Real feeling is the feeling of gratefulness.
  • The best occupation is cultivation of land.
  • The highest treasure is the Dharma.
  • Since all these are received through the kings they should be cherished.
  • Kings do not like those who are puffed up with pride.
  • When one has received titles, offices and wealth from the king he should not become proud.
  • According to tradition only the sons of the kings should be elected as kings.
  • If there are no princes to maintain the kingdom the queens should be elected and in the absence of them as well, the people should place a slipper worn by a great king and protect the kingdom.

The Kalingas are the rightful heirs to the throne of Sri Lanka and therefore non-Buddhist kings such as Colas and Pandyans shall not be consecrated as kings of Sri Lanka. If there are any of them [Kalingas] to be found, is the duty of the people to place them in the position of supremacy to protect the Sasana.

It is indeed the Dharma that protects this whole world. So reflecting, cherish love for the acquisition of happiness in both the worlds. Thus are future kings requested by King Kalinga Nissanka Malla who loves virtue.”

Pretty impressive, isn’t it? I felt so proud of our ancestors at the way they governed this country. That is something unfortunately, our present leaders haven’t learned. All the MPs and the rest of the government officials and politicians should be thought and given a code of conduct based on these. But again, it’ll have to be implemented by the politicians themselves. So it won’t become realistic.

You know that there’s another short description given at the sight, don’t you? Let’s take a look at that as well.

Contents:

This giant inscription which assumes the shape of a palm-leaf manuscript in stone has been a work of King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) and it is the largest stone inscription so far discovered. The inscription itself says that this large stone block was transported from Mihintale, some hundred kilometers away from Polonnaruwa. It describes the genealogy, heroic and altruistic deeds of King Nissanka Malla. The letters of the inscription were gilded with molten iron. There may have been a roof over the inscription for its protection. The figure of the woman on the side face of the stone on whom two elephants are sprinkling water has been identified as Goddess Gajalakshmi (Goddess of Prosperity).”

See, there’s no point going and seeing these things if you haven’t a clue as to what they are, who’s built them, what was the purpose for it, how old they are, etc. Now is the time for long awaited pictures.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

In brief

In brief

Look at the size

Look at the size

Look at the Gajalakshmi between the Elephants

Look at the Gajalakshmi between the Elephants

Thickness

Thickness

Writing is super clear even after all the years

Writing is super clear even after all the years

Sathmahal Prasada

Now, we’re gonna see another tall building built during the Polonnaruwa era. Unlike the 7-story building of King Parakramabahu Palace, this is so much smaller and has a pyramidal shape as it narrows down going up. Let’s see what the archeology department has to say about it.

Contents:

Although known as Satmahal Prasada, its ancient name or other facts of this edifice are not known. Despite the fact that there’s reference in the Mahavamsa that King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) built a Satmahal Prasada in Polonnaruwa there’s no positive evidence that it is the building. Built in the stepped pyramidal form this seven-storied structure may be a stupa of a rare kind. It bears a close similarity to the stupa at Wat Kukut in Lamphun, Thailand. The architectural features common in South-East Asian countries are also visible in this building.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

There it is

There it is

Statues in the center all the way up

Statues in the center all the way up

This is towards the bottom

This is towards the bottom

There's an entrance too

There’s an entrance too

This must've been the way they went upstairs coz it's too small to make it inside

This must’ve been the way they went upstairs coz it’s too small to make it inside

Pohoya Geya (Chapter House)

Our next attraction was the Chapter House located between Galpotha and Sathmahal Prasada. In Sinhala, it’s the Pohoya Geya but there was no further information displayed on site. Let’s see the pictures in action. One special feature is a stone pillar at the center very much similar to the curved lotus stalk of Nissanka Latha Mandapa. Apart from that, there are a handful of pillars along the border of the structure. At the entrance, a prominent moonstone is present.

See anything unusual?

See anything unusual?

This is very common you know

This is very common you know

Closer look and wet after the rains

Closer look and wet after the rains

I was referring to this, not as glamorous as Nissanka Latha MAndapa but similar all the same

I was referring to this, not as glamorous as Nissanka Latha MAndapa but similar all the same

Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa

Well, it’s time to leave the Dalada Maluwa but not before examining the East Entrance. This is in a better shaped compared to the West Entrance and is right in front of the car park I told you earlier. Without much more ha ho, let’s see the pictures.

Out we go

Out we go

Surrounding buildings

Surrounding buildings

Some more

Some more

Bottom of the steps

Bottom of the steps

Could've been another inscription and see the below carvings

Could’ve been another inscription and see the below carvings

You saw just this

You saw just this

Ok, that’s about the Dalada Maluwa where most of the Sacred Shrines are located. If you think, we’ve done for the day, you’re badly mistaken. Stay with us for a bit longer folks, coz I’ve got three other things that would interest you.

Shiva Devalaya No. 2

We drove on towards the South Entrance to the outer Citadel. You would have to go through it to see the majestic Gal Viharaya and many more prominent shrines and relics. Just before the Southern Entrance, there’s a right turn that will take you to Shiva Devalaya No. 2. We took that and it’s a drive about 400m. Pabalu Vehera is a located somewhere in the middle to the right but we drove straight to the Shiva Devalaya hoping to cover Pabalu Vehera on the way back. So let’s see what it says about the Shiva Devalaya No. 2. Remember we visited the No. 1 just before Dalada Maluwa. Should you like to refresh your memory, just scroll up.

Contents:

This is the oldest Hindu shrine in Polonnaruwa. Known as Shiva Devala No. 2, it had been built by King Rajaraja I (985-1014 AD). According to Tamil inscription found in situ this has been dedicated to the consort of the above king, Vanavanmadevi. In the center of the shrine is the stone-cut Sivalinga as the principal object of worship. Many images of Hindu gods were discovered from this site. The Namdi figure, the vehicle of God Siva is presently located in front of the shrine. Hindu religious activities continue here even at the present time.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here we are and look at this, 100% granite

Here we are and look at this, 100% granite

The vehicle of God Siva

The vehicle of God Siva

Pretty much similar to Kovil No. 1

Pretty much similar to Kovil No. 1

Here's the entrance but can't go in as it's functioning to-date. The Pooja is conducted every Tue and Fri

Here’s the entrance but can’t go in as it’s functioning to-date. The Pooja is conducted every Tue and Fri

See the closed door?

See the closed door?

Another of Nandhi

Another of Nandhi

Time to go

Time to go

Unnamed Ruins

The Eastern Entrance to the outer Citadel lies a little away from the Shiva Kovil No. 2 but we didn’t attempt to go see it as the time was going really fast and already the dusk was falling. We wanted to see Pabalu Vehera before the darkness completely enveloped us. It didn’t look like many have ventured into see the Entrance so it’ll have to wait till another time. However, on our way back to the Pabalu Vehera, we noticed a ladder going up towards a tree with a hut on the top of it. I was very interested in that so we stopped to look around.

Beyond the tree there was a path that led to a hut about 50m away. Naturally, I wanted to investigate and walked towards it. There was nobody in sight so looking closer this was a place under excavation by the archeology department. It was in the middle of being unearthed and hopefully there’ll be something new added to the already overflowing collection. By the way, that hut could be used to stay at night or to keep watch as jumbos might be roaming around. Just imagine how many more sites are there buried under the earth waiting to be excavated. That’s why we have to keep funding the Archeology Department all the time coz they’re digging for our heritage. Here are some pictures.

If they find something new, well you’ve seen the first hand before anyone else. So keep smiling…

Here's the tree house

Here’s the tree house

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Being dug out

Being dug out

Looks like a big complex

Looks like a big complex

Heads of the pillars

Heads of the pillars

Maybe this will be unveiled in the near future

Maybe this will be unveiled in the near future

Pabalu Vehera

The next thing, the last in our list, was Pabalu Vehera. A beautiful name for a Dagaba and we were highly excited. So we drove on and found to our greatest relief that nobody in sight. It was the same at Shiva Kovil No. 2 but after we arrived, there were two other vehicles. Apparently these shrines are not visited by many and often enough. Having tried to avoid people throughout the day, this was a godsend opportunity to take in the evening surrounding with this imposing Pagoda.

This is what I really love about archeology. You can go back in time visualizing what it was like then when you’re alone in a site like this. Most of the day, we were deprived of that opportunity but here was our perfect opportunity.

Dear me, maybe I spoke out of hand or too soon. Here comes a vehicle and I can see a couple of bicycles too coming this way, probably foreigners. Well, let’s go see this beautiful structure before it’s too late and the darkness envelopes us. Oh, we gotta see what the story behind it before that.

Contents:

Located to the south of the main street which provides access to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa from the eastern gate. It is popularly believed that this may be the stupa supposed to have been built by Queen Rupavati, a consort of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But there is no definitive evidence about its ancient name or the builder. The popular name Pabalu Vehera may derive from the recovery of ‘beads’ (Pabalu) in the vicinity. Around the stupa there are several image houses. A special feature of this stupa is a narrow staircase in three flights at the south providing access to top of the basal tiers.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Fading light wouldn't help

Fading light wouldn’t help

Closer, there's a Buddha Statue in the center

Closer, there’s a Buddha Statue in the center

There it is clear now

There it is clear now

Partially damaged

Partially damaged

There were signs of image houses all around this

There were signs of image houses all around this

Another statue

Another statue

Bit of clear ground

Bit of clear ground

There another

There another

This is pretty much intact

This is pretty much intact

You saw a similar one just before entering the Shiva Devalaya No. 1

You saw a similar one just before entering the Shiva Devalaya No. 1

The sun was setting behind us

The sun was setting behind us

Another image house, do you see the fallen statue?

Another image house, do you see the fallen statue?

Ok, getting dark now

Ok, getting dark now

Through the granite frames

Through the granite frames

Sky is clear but not the ground

Sky is clear but not the ground

One of many, they are staying around the Stupa in the night

One of many, they are staying around the Stupa in the night

Sunset from Parakrama Samudra

All right, we’ve covered, I’d imagine, about 30-40% of the documented shrines and relics inside the whole complex. Most likely a lot less than that percentage I just mentioned. I know you’re wondering “What? We’ve only seen that much after all that?”. I don’t blame you for thinking like that coz that’s how any ordinary person would feel. Don’t you worry coz we’re gonna see some more tomorrow, now don’t get alarmed, and it’ll be another story. Right now it’s almost dark and our camera batteries have long gone dead but Atha suggested we go see the Gal Vihara Statues in the dusk.

We kinda wanted to do a reconnaissance around the other attractions so that we could plan the following day properly. So we drove on and parked at Gal Vihara. Then took a walk with nothing but our phones. It felt so great not to have the cameras with us as we were only taking in the scenery with our eyes. It’s something we must try every now and then. We walked leisurely towards the Gal Vihara to find many people were still at the premises. Do you know the Gal Vihara used to be called as Kele Viharaya (Forest or Jungle Temple)? That’s just what we heard one guide was telling his crew. It had been nothing but thick jungle all around the complex before it was unveiled thus giving it the name. But now it’s popularly known as all over the world, Gal Viharaya.

I’m going to be naughty and not show you any pictures I took with my phone. It felt heavenly and I went back in time in my mind.

—There were flames stuck along the path to the statues. A crescent moon was high up in the sky with a million stars to keep him company. The distance sound of drums at the Dalada Maluwa was soothing to the ears. Wind blew from Parakrama Samudra bringing a cool air that covered our bodies. There was a group of monks walking in a line looking downwards in meditation. The upper bare-bodied guards with bandanas carrying swords and spears were stood at every entrance looking menacingly. Clinking and clattering of horses moving about was music to my ears. The Buddha statues looked serene in the flame light. Moonlight reflected on the granite surface falling that light on the leaves. For a moment everything came to a standstill and I felt a calmness wash over me.—

“Let’s go, it’s getting late” Atha woke me from my reverie. I dragged myself towards the car and we drove away. Passing the Parakrama Samudra where you can see it clearly from the main road I put my foot down hoping to step on the brakes but realized it was Atha who was driving. Shouting for him to pull over I unbuckled myself getting the camera out of the backseat where it was being charged. We stopped and both ran like madmen to the viewing point. What we saw is something every person’s dream but only a handful of us were lucky enough to see it.

The sun was at this last stage of setting in the distance across the Parakrama Samudraya. The water rippled in the wind and the vivid colors reflected on the surface beautifully. I was lost for a minute. There was no one else but me. Now you’re gonna see what I saw but let me warn you, the pictures are not even half as good as what I saw for real.

Now, look at this

Now, look at this

Simply breath-taking

Simply breath-taking

Burning horizon

Burning horizon

Dark clouds to the left

Dark clouds to the left

Standing all alone

Standing all alone

Beyond words

Beyond words

Ok folks, going to eat and sleep now... See you in the next one

Ok folks, going to eat and sleep now… See you in the next one

Oh dear, this has really been a marathon of archeology. We’re all but exhausted and all we need is a delicious meal and a cozy bed.

I hope you folks enjoyed it as much as I did bringing it to you. I don’t have to reiterate the fact that I went to great trouble to bring you a comprehensive narration of what we saw within 7+ hours.

Thanks for being patient and reading through. Now go imagine yourselves in the former glory of Polonnaruwa and we’re gonna get some rest.

I’ll bring you the Chapter 2 in the next report with more pictures and details. Until then, take care and keep travelling.

Sri…


Twilight at Kumana and Lahugala

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Year and Month March, 2015
Number of Days Two
Crew Two
Guide Rajitha 0779445204
Accommodation N/A
Transport Pajero
Activities Wildlife, Archaeology, National parks, Birding
Weather Clear sky
Route D1 Monaragala -> Potuvil -> Panama -> Kumana -> Returned back on the same route

D2 Monaragala -> Siyambalanduwa -> Lahugala -> Returned back on the same route

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take 2 or 3 bottles of water per person
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Wear attire suitable for protection against heat
  • Follow the rules of the national park
  • A camp site and bungalow is been planned to be built at Lahugala
  • Don’t disturb wild life

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Rajitha for helping us to recover the vehicle

Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map around Kumana - click to enlarge

Map around Kumana – click to enlarge

Map around Lahugala - click to enlarge

Map around Lahugala – click to enlarge

Though I have been to Kumana twice and visited many interesting locations I did miss out on Bambaragasthalawa site. So with my wife I took off towards Kumana on a late afternoon. Our first stop was at Panama Lake. We took the road which led towards Wedagama Lake. At the border of Panama lake there was a road to the left and that ended at Panama RMV which is in ruins. The monk who was residing there was not available at that moment so we walked around a bit and returned to the lake which is famous for its bird and Croc life.

this sign is found at the begining at Wedegama lake road

this sign is found at the beginning at Wedegama lake road

Panama ancient temple

Panama ancient temple

inscription

inscription

 stairway to the top of Balumgala

stairway to the top of Balumgala

art of mother nature

art of mother nature

Panama lake

Panama lake

bit hazy

bit hazy

Whistling ducks

Whistling ducks

type of karawila

type of karawila

 beauty

beauty

From Panama we headed towards Kumana and we didn’t forget to stop here and there to enjoy a random elephant and a herd of deer of Panama – Kudumbigala NP. Before reaching Kumana we came across Weheragama Kovil where we did stop to climb the road side rock. On top of this there were ruins of a pagoda and there were many other ruins scattered everywhere which signifies that this must have been once a hermitage. After having some “dane” which was offered to us we headed to Kumana. At Kumana we inquired about the route to Bambaragasthalawa and no one could answer us properly luckily Rajitha was aware about the route since he was the only one who had been there for the whole year.

Weheragama gana devi kovil

Weheragama gana devi kovil

Weheragama pagoda

Weheragama pagoda

stairway to the pagoda

stairway to the pagoda

kema

kema

ruins

ruins

travesing the park which doesnt have any jeep tracks

traversing the park which doesnt have any jeep tracks

different ethnicity

different ethnicity

a kyte

a kite

With Rajitha we took off on a less muddy route (took a road to the right somewhere passing yoda lipa) and few Km’s along the lonely road disaster struck.. We got stuck in mud hole and the differential was knocking on the ground. It took 1 ½ hours to recover ourselves and continue on our journey to Bambaragasthalawa. This route is a very lonely 8Km stretch and if something happens you won’t receive help as fast as you expect. Finally we reached Bambaragasthalawa and we were surrounded by many rocky hills on either side. Each of these had prominent caves on them too. After a 500m walk we reached the main cave with the statue. It was a huge reclining statue just as seen at Pidurangala, Tarulengala, Mailla & Hebessa. Sadly the head part had been vandalized by treasure hunters. This must have been a majestic hermitage in the past. One could still appreciate the lime plaster and the excellent craftsmanship of this sculpture though it has been vandalized. Bambaragasthalawa is known to be one of the highest points at Kumana and we did manage to climb up on a rock and enjoy the fascinating view.

national pride

national pride

where we got stucked

where we got stucked

what a hlpful guy was this Rajitha

what a helpful guy was this Rajitha

harvesting minerals

harvesting minerals

our destination

our destination

Bambaragasthalawa cave

Bambaragasthalawa cave

full circumference drip ledge

full circumference drip ledge

the large statue

the large statue

another view

another view

another cave

another cave

an inscription

an inscription

 a kema

a kema

view from the rock surface

view from the rock surface

kudumbigala seen from bambaragasthalawa

kudumbigala seen from bambaragasthalawa

another cave seen far away

another cave seen far away

serpant eagle

serpant eagle

From Bambaragasthalawa we returned back to the main safari track and decided to head towards Thunmulla Lake and do a wild life safari though it was not in our plans. And the safari was very rewarding. We spotted almost all of those mammals except the leopard. The best was the Bear who were playing hide and seek with us somewhere close to Yoda lipa. The best thing is there are no troublemakers like in Yala and Wilpattu we could enjoy the nature as we wish without been bothered by anyone. On that day we didn’t come across any other safari jeep. When we exited the park it was close to 6 and if it wasn’t for Rajitha the tracker we would have been still stuck in Kumana. He was a lovely and very helpful chap and if you go there try and get his guidance. At Okada we climbed up on the rock to enjoy a lovely sun set before heading back towards Monaragala. On our way we had to stop on few occasions to let the Elephants pass by on their natural path. When we reached Monaragala it was close to 9pm that day.

ducks

ducks

deadly

deadly

wildboars

wild boars

thug life

thug life

 lots of them

lots of them

those antlers

those antlers

wow

wow

chest nut headed bee eater

chest nut headed bee eater

Bagure

Bagure

bagure rock

bagure rock

those landscape shots

those landscape shots

Thunmulla lake

Thunmulla lake

croc at thunmulla

croc at thunmulla

sleeping like a log

sleeping like a log

 lonely duck

lonely duck

jacana

jacana

majestic

majestic

ah playing hide and seek

ah playing hide and seek

malabar hornbill

malabar hornbill

that jump

that jump

one of those bulls

one of those bulls

hawk eagle

hawk eagle

approaching a dead dog

approaching a dead dog

 trying to see if its a live

trying to see if its a live

and it started feasting

and it started feasting

view from okanda

view from okanda

 end of a day

end of a day

 okada devalaya

okada devalaya

lovely sun set

lovely sun set

obstacles along the road

obstacles along the road

On day 2 I decided to do a wildlife safari at Lahugala though I have traveled many times passing this NP I have never set the foot in it. Before reaching Lahugala we stopped by at the edge of tank to snap few ducks. At around 3pm we entered the park close to the park office. We first headed towards Kitulana tank. There is an elevated rock where you could have a lovely view towards the tank. From here we then proceeded towards the proposed camp site at Lahugala which is a rocky plateau. We were told by the ranger that they were going to build a tree house type camp site at this location. This is indeed a lovely location for birding. From here we headed towards the spill where the Lahugala wild life bungalow once stood now only ruins of it could be seen. We were told that it was also going to be restored in near future. We did walk a bit on the bund but since the water levels were high we couldn’t capture any elephants clearly. From here we took another route and exited the park close to the tank – main road border and ended our brief visit to Lahugala NP. These were two pending adventures in my list and I’m happy that I fulfilled my dream.

Serpent eagle having an ahetulla as lunch

Serpent eagle having an ahetulla as lunch

Lahugala tank as seen from the road

Lahugala tank as seen from the road

friends

friends

lot of ducks  = godak

lot of ducks = godak

lesser whistling ducks

lesser whistling ducks

flying away

flying away

Ele's enjoying Beru

Ele’s enjoying Beru

lovely

lovely

hungry sun bird

hungry sun bird

purple heron

purple heron

ah found these guys at Lahugala too

ah found these guys at Lahugala too

inside the park

inside the park

the view point at kitulana lake

the view point at kitulana lake

 kitulana lake

kitulana lake

Green bee eater

Green bee eater

Lahugala tank as seen from the proposed camp site

Lahugala tank as seen from the proposed camp site

proposed camp site

proposed camp site

spoonbills

spoonbills

Indian Pipit

Indian Pipit

 lovely location for a camp site

lovely location near the camp site

mushroom life

mushroom life

hawk eagle

hawk eagle

see those muscles

look at those those muscles

we drove over this

we drove over this

the tank

the tank

the bund

the bund

lovely creation

lovely creation

ah didnt forget to capture them

ah didnt forget to capture them

evening rays

evening rays

more ducks

more ducks

නැට්ට කොටා

නැට්ට කොටා

ah we took off before he came

ah we took off before he came

submerged

submerged

Malabar hornbill

Malabar hornbill

where we exited

where we exited

free of charge bird observation point

free of charge bird observation point

Fun at Pleasure Island

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Year and Month 2014 March 08th
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 03-Nadeera, Siraj and Myself
Accommodation N/A
Transport Car and Boat
Activities Relaxation and Archeology
Weather Excellent
Route Polonnaruwa -> Dambulla -> Madatugama (මඩාටුගම) in Dambulla-Anuradhapura road (A9) ->  Jathika Namal Uyana (ජාතික නාමල් උයන) -> Back to Dambulla -> Ibbankatuwa Lake (ඉබ්බන්කටුව ජලාශය) -> Pleasure Island (සතුටු දූපත) -> Ibbankatuwa pre historical burial -> Dambulla -> Polonnaruwa
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • As a rule start the journey as early as possible
  • The road condition from Dambulla to Jathika Namal Uyana via Madatugama is satisfactory. Better avoid the road via Galewela (ගලේවෙල) due to constructions
  • It is better to visit at Namal Uyana in morning hours or evening hours to avoid heat. Otherwise it is difficult to go over pink quartz mountain (රෝස තිරුවානා කන්ද)
  • Boat tour to pleasure island for 10 people costs Rs 2500.00They will drop you to the Island and you can spend the time till 5pm. No night spends there. You have to carry food and beverages. Safety jackets would be provided for the short boat tour (15-20minutes). Tickets have to be taken from Pleasure Island Holiday Resort which is situated closer to over spill of the reservoir.T.P. 066 2284145/0714185285
Related Sources
  • Official web site of Jathika Namal Uyana
  • Amazing Lanka web site on Ibbankatuwa ancient burial site.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This one day trip was planned to visit at Pleasure Island at Ibbankatuwa reservoir. Then we added a short visit to Jathika Namal Uyana for it.
Jathika Namal Uyana (ජාතික නාමල් උයන)
Jathika Namal Uyana consists of largest Na forest (Iron Wood/Mesua Ferara) of Sri Lanka, largest pink quartz reserve of South East Asia and few ancient ruins. This is the forest reserve called Ranawa Kanda (රණව කන්ද).
Iron Wood/ Mesua Ferara is the national tree of Sri Lanka and spread over 260acers here.
Pink quartz is having history of more than 500millions of years. There are seven rows of mountain situated 180m-300m range of sea level. Old name for this mountain range is “Lunugal Debala” (ලුණුගල දෙබල) -salt like mountain. Cylicone di-oxide is the chemical which gives pinkish appearance here. It is believed King Shajahan has used the marble from Namal Uyana pink quartz in constructions of Taj Mahal.
We were the first travelers entered the Na forest on that day. It was nice to walk along well paved foot pathways under the shades of Iron wood trees. At the end of foot pathway we entered pink quartz mountain which was identified as the largest of South East Asia.

Tree canopy.....

Tree canopy…..

Just in front of entrance

Just in front of entrance

.

.

Well paved foot pathway

Well paved foot pathway

Well paved foot pathway

Well paved foot pathway

Information on bio diversity

Information on bio diversity

Ancient pagoda

Ancient pagoda

Bodhigaraya- බෝධිඝරය

Bodhigaraya- බෝධිඝරය

Local gods

Local gods

Water stream. According to the literature there are three water streams starting from the mountain range

Water stream. According to the literature there are three water streams starting from the mountain range

It is a forest reserve

It is a forest reserve

Trio of the journey

Trio of the journey

Pink quartz mountain range

Pink quartz mountain range

Pink quartz

Pink quartz

Beliya Kanda බේලිය කන්ද (largest one is seen behind) and nearby small lake

Beliya Kanda බේලිය කන්ද (largest one is seen behind) and nearby small lake

Pink quartz range

Pink quartz range

Buddha statue found at the base of the range

Buddha statue found at the base of the range

On top of pink quartz

On top of pink quartz

Ritigala (රිටිගල) is seen

Ritigala (රිටිගල) is seen

Following Namal Uyana visit we came back along the same road. Ranawa RMW is situated about 1km away from Namal Uyana.
Ranawa RMW රණව රජමහා විහාරය
King Dutugamunu has been here for sometime while he was attacking Anuradhapura. The stone bed seen here belongs to him.

.

.

Ranawa ancient temple

Ranawa ancient temple

Stone bed

Stone bed

New image house

New image house

Then we drove to Dambulla back and bought for food and beverages to visit at pleasure Island.
Pleasure Island (සතුටු දූපත)
This is a small islet situated at Ibbankatuwa reservoir (Dambulu-Oya tank). This island has been rented by the local authority to a private owner for tourism. They arrange boat tours to Pleasure Island.
At Pleasure Island you can have a bath at Ibbankatuwa Lake and can spend your day. For bath, they indicate a safety boundary and not good to swim beyond that. Then a life guard would be there to look after you.
Nothing much you can see in this islet as it is too small. But it facilitates a good view towards surrounding area. Pleasure Island can be recommended for a group fun in a one day trip.
You have to drive about two kilometers from Dambulla along Kurunegala road and get a right hand side turn to reach the lake.

Directions

Directions

Just before start the boat tour

Just before start the boat tour

Travelling with pleasure

Travelling with pleasure

Pleasure Island

Pleasure Island

Pleasure Island-the area for bath.

Pleasure Island-the area for bath.

The foot pathway within the Island

The foot pathway within the Island

???Ruins

???Ruins

Over the bank

Over the bank

Fun at water

Fun at water

Dambulla cricket stadium and Yakkurugala (යක්කුරුගල) are shown by the arrow

Dambulla cricket stadium and Yakkurugala (යක්කුරුගල) are shown by the arrow

Pink Quartz mountain-“Ranawa Kanda”

Pink Quartz mountain-“Ranawa Kanda”

Boat is ready for return journey

Boat is ready for return journey

Dambulu Oya- දඹුලු ඔය

Dambulu Oya- දඹුලු ඔය

Ibbankatuwa Tank

Ibbankatuwa Tank

Gates

Gates

Our last place of visit of the day was pre-historical burial site at Ibbankatuwa.
Ibbankatuwa pre-historical Burial
Ibbankatuwa pre historical burial is situated about 4-5km from Dambulla along Kurunegala road. You have to get right hand side turn from main road to reach the burial in about 200m.
They have found 10 tombs here which belongs to 750-400BC (early Iron Age). Each tomb is separated from four stone slabs and covered with another slab on top of it. Excavation has revealed personal belongings such as clay pots, necklaces and some beads etc.

Ibbankatuwa Pre historical Burial

Ibbankatuwa Pre historical Burial

.

.

Thanks for reading

Camping Trip to Deanston

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 5 (between 26-39 years of age)
Accommodation Camping
Transport By Car
Activities Hiking, Photography and Relaxing.
Weather Sunny in the morning. Misty in the evening. Rain in last day afternoon.
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Hunnasgiriya -> Deanston and return in same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Not necessary to carry water, there are water streams, but better to carry empty water bottle to fill it, since at higher altitude there were no water sources.
  • Be prepared for leaches attack
  • Do not carry Plastic items, Make sure you bring back everything you took
Related Resources
  1. Attraction: Knuckles South – Deanston, Corbett’s Gap & Traditional Villages
  2. Trail Guide: Dothalugala Nature Trail – Knuckles Range
  3. Contact Numbers of Forest Department and Wildlife Deparment for Reservations
Author Sanketha
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Last October I made a visit to Deanston with my family and Harinda’s family.

When I saw the campsite I thought I should do a camping there some day. In month of May this year we are having long weekend and I thought of doing a leisure hike with some of my friends. They are Hiruna, Chaturanga, Damith and Jayaruwan. Many Places came to our mind when deciding on a place. But ultimately Deanston came to my mind. I booked the campsite in advance from Forest Department on May 3rd and 4th.

We started the journey on May 3rd around 4 AM. At around 11 AM we were able to reach Hunnasgiriya. On the way at Mawanella we had our breakfast. It took more than half an hour to reach last 8 Km since the road is in bad condition. But we are able to tackle it with high ground clearance car. We showed our pass to officer in Deanston and directly heading to campsite which is about 2 KM away with our backpacks, tents and gas-cooker. About an hour we were in Campsite. First thing we did is fixed our tents. We brought 2 tents; 4 man-tent and 3 man-tent.

View from campsite

View from campsite

View from campsite

View from campsite

Resting at campsite

Resting at campsite

Tents are ready

Tents are ready

After lunch we started hiking Dothalugala trail around 2PM. Daothalugala trail is about 5km and path is well maintained by forest department. . Actual trail didn’t go to the top. But to add more adventure to our hike we thought of hike the Dothalugala peak. Around 2.5km marked on the trail, we deviate from main trail and climbed up. Climb is not that easy with undergrowth, but we were able to reach an open space and took some pictures. This is not the peak; therefore we climbed again through the bushes while marking the path on trees. We came to another open space where peak is clearly seen very close by from here. Also we can see both sides. But because of the mist we have to wait some time to get a clear view. After some break we descend to the place we start the detour. After that we finished the Dothalugala tail around 4.30PM. Next thing we did after returning to camp side is cool dip in the natural pool very close to camp site.

Dothalugala trail head

Dothalugala trail head

Capturing the beauty

Capturing the beauty

Resting

Resting

On the way scenery

On the way scenery

Can you identify?

Can you identify?

Path is well maintained

Path is well maintained

Landside

Landside

View through landslide

View through landslide

View from 1st clear area

View from 1st clear area

View from 1st clear area

View from 1st clear area

View from 2nd  clear area

View from 2nd clear area

View from 2nd  clear area

View from 2nd clear area

Dolathugala trail truning point

Dolathugala trail truning point

View from there

View from there

View on the way back

View on the way back

View on the way back

View on the way back

Posing

Posing

Back to camp site

Back to camp site

Waterfall near campsite

Waterfall near campsite

Natural pool where we bath

Natural pool where we bath

Next we quickly made our dinner. We prepared dhal, carrot sambal and rice. After heavy dinner we went to sleep early. Next day morning we get up early to capture the sunrise.

Early morning view from camp site

Early morning view from camp site

Early morning view from camp site

Early morning view from camp site

Sunrise

Sunrise

Sunrise

Sunrise

Second day plan is to walk to Cobert’s gap and return. Total distance is nearly 30Km. We started the walk around 9AM and able to reach there at 12PM. On the way last 2km we get a lift from a lorry. We had biscuits with chees for lunch. There we enjoyed the beauty about an hour. We collect the waste put by others into a garbage bag and give it to a jeep to hand it over to KCC.

Path from campsite

Path from campsite

Beauty

Beauty

Under the shades

Under the shades

Kobonilla

Kobonilla

Water steams on the way

Water steams on the way

Water steams on the way

Water steams on the way

At Cobert’s gap

At Cobert’s gap

Information board

Information board – Click Image to Enlarge

Can you identify knuckles peaks

Can you identify knuckles peaks

Road to Meemure

Road to Meemure

Before cleanup

Before cleanup

After cleanup

After cleanup

We turned back around 1PM and started to descend. Suddenly it was raining. While wetting on the rain and enjoying it we were able to come to our campsite around 4:30PM.

Then we had a bath from near natural pool and prepared dinner; Rice with dhal curry, Soya curry and Potato curry. We spent some time at the camp fire made by one of our member Damith and spend an hour under the stars and went to sleep.

Next day early morning we get up around 4AM. Since it was a weask day we saw the bright full moon and took some photos. Also we were able to capture the nice sun rise. After packing our stuff and cleaning the camp site we leave around 10 AM. 11AM we left Deanston and had lunch at Peradeniya. We were able to return home around 6PM.

Moon

Moon

Sunrise

Sunrise

Sunrise

Sunrise

Sunrise

Sunrise

Before leaving campsite

Before leaving campsite

Cleaned campsite

Cleaned campsite

Thank you very much for reading.

Camping experience on Knuckles

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Year and Month June, 2014 (28th to 29th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 04 – Akila,Sadaruwan,Lalinda and my self
Accommodation Camping on 2nd Knuckles peak
Transport Bus, Three wheel and walking
Activities Mountain climbing, Sightseeing and Photography
Weather Misty, windy and drizzling
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Waththegama -> Panwila -> Bambaralla -> Knuckles peaks -> Back to same route to Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • There are two camp sites on Knuckles peak:
  • One is at first peak covered with tress. Other one is on second peak which has only surrounding bushes. But none of them have water. Therefore carrying enough water is a must for cooking.
  • I was told by Ashan about a third camp site over 4th peak with a water well in his visit to Knuckles on later day. But I didn’t notice such a place. Hope Ashan will give more details about that.
  • Be ready with a tent which suitable for wind. Camp site at second Knuckles peak faces extreme wind during night (We experienced).
  • Carry some warm clothes for extreme cold during night.
  • Firewood can be easily found from surrounding area of second camp site. But it is a bit challenge to make a fire with the wind.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This trip was happened almost one year back and I thought this is the correct place to discuss it.

We departure early morning from Colombo and reached Waththegama around 7.00am. After collecting our necessary stuff from there and hired a three wheeler to Thawalanthanna. (It was kind a fair taxi cost Rs 1500!!!).

Early morning weather was good but upper peaks were slightly covered with mist. But surrounding was misty on our way up and we reached the camp site around 3.00pm. For hard luck we couldn’t have any of the pictures I showed in above report.
We pitched our tent and prepared our dinner. It was extreme windy on top of second peak and it was a sleepless night.
Following day morning weather was same but we headed towards third peak and experienced furious wind at open area of second and third peaks.
Any way we reached 4th peak but then turned back as we couldn’t see even nearby things due to thick mist.

Starting the journey from Thilaka stores-Thawalanthanna

Starting the journey from Thilaka stores-Thawalanthanna

Proper road is shown by orange arrow and the short cut (we followed) is shown by blue arrow

Proper road is shown by orange arrow and the short cut (we followed) is shown by blue arrow

It was a misty day……

It was a misty day……

Five peaks-upper parts covered with mist

Five peaks-upper parts covered with mist

Last line house

Last line house

Getting directions

Getting directions

Wearing leech socks. But ALUM is better than leech socks.

Wearing leech socks. But ALUM is better than leech socks.

Again weather is clear

Again weather is clear

Clear peaks

Clear peaks

KNUCKLES vs. KNUCKLES

KNUCKLES vs. KNUCKLES

First peak

First peak

Second peak

Second peak

Our tent

Our tent

Making camp fire

Making camp fire

Next day morning-Breakfast

Next day morning-Breakfast

Group picture

Group picture

Misty third peak

Misty third peak

On top of third peak

On top of third peak

Climbing fourth peak. This dog followed us from Thawalanthanna and stayed with us over night

Climbing fourth peak. This dog followed us from Thawalanthanna and stayed with us over night

Came across over 4th peak

Came across over 4th peak

On top of fourth peak

On top of fourth peak

Misty peaks.....I ll come back to you

Misty peaks…..I ll come back to you

Have a safe journey

Tracking to “Kabbale peak” in Kaneliya

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Year and Month April, 2015
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 9 (Dulan, Sameera, Supun, Dakshana, Shamal, Shantha, Umesh, Me & The Guide)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Motor bike
Activities Hiking & Trekking, Photography, Waterfall hunting
Weather Excellent
Route Galle -> Nakiyadeniya -> Udugama -> Kanneliya -> Return to same way
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Mainly there are 3 natural ways to entering Kanneliya rain forest. But you can’t fulfill both ways within one day.
  • You must take a guide at the entrance of conservation center. You can get more details. (0915630579)
  • It’s take care of beverage needs, because there are many water sources at the start but when we reaching to trail head there are no any water sources.
  • And also specially pay your attention in rainy days there is a threat of flash lightning. So take care about it.
  • If you walk nosy way, you can see many conventional flora & fauna.
  • As usually you must ready to leaches attacks also.
  • You must keep it your mind polythene is unwholesome to here.
  • Leave only your footprints & bring only sweet memories.
Related Resources
Author upul nandana
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Kanneliya-Dediyagala-Nakiyadeniya is a forest complex in southern Sri Lanka. This is the last large remaining rainforest in Sri Lanka other than Siharaja. This forest is one of prosperous fauna zone in south Asia. It’s spread over 101.4km area. This is situated about 35km towards Northern western from Galle town. This forest provides good security to many of rivers in southern Sri Lanka. And also this rain forest is a main water source which filled up “Nilwala” & “Gin”.

Even I went Kanneliya before, I tracking on the common route. So we decided to try the way across “kabbale” peak though that route is more difficult. According to that we planned to go along that route in this time.

Four of us start from Galle at about 6am & other two friends join with us along the way. After get the breakfast at Udugama, Other two guys are joined. Then we went to Kanneliya conservation rain forest.

First Seen in “Kabbale” peak along the way

First Seen in “Kabbale” peak along the way

Along the way to Kanneliya

Along the way to Kanneliya

At the entrance

At the entrance

Clear target

Clear target

There were lot of people came to “Kanneliya” on that day because of a holiday. (But there were not anyone who select “Kabbale” path.) It seems to be a dislike of guides to climb “kabbale” those days because of the evening rain fall. The lightening with the rainfall is the main reason for that. However we contacted a guide and started journey around 9am.

We started from the plantation which situated at preserving center ad entering to the jungle and also we had to face crucial leeches’ attacks because of the wet surrounding.

Select any route

Select any route – Click Image to Enlarge

Entering to dark forest

Entering to dark forest

Wet surrounding

Wet surrounding

Crucial attacks

Crucial attacks

Still darken

Still darken

Thick forest

Thick forest

We met the first resting place which was “Kospalaketiya” after 1.5km away from the start. It can’t be scene a good condition to stay there and rest and also the leech amount was very high. So we passed there and get some rest at a place which had a good sunlight.

The way from here was a little ascent and the handrail which erected by the wild preservative department is make easy our journey. After 700m ahead from here we met “Gallalidola Ella” and can be getting pure water from there.

Clear path

Clear path

“කොස් පැලකැටිය” resting place

“කොස් පැලකැටිය” resting place

Co-operation

Co-operation

Get some rest

Get some rest

Start an ascent

Start an ascent

Bunch of cap-fungi

Bunch of cap-fungi

“ගල්ලෑලි දොළ” fall

“ගල්ලෑලි දොළ” fall

Last beverage source

Last beverage source

What a seat…

What a seat…

Hand rail is very helpful

Hand rail is very helpful

Leaf art

Leaf art

We can enter to the “Kabbale peak” along a hard way with a high ascent. We can see here very beautiful surrounding with a mountain forest range. The wetness of surrounding and the leeches’ attacks are disappeared by now.

“Mada kabbale” resting place is situated small distance ahead from here. That resting place is in a good condition. But it should be said that this is a danger zone in rainy days. Because of that many of trees in here were affected to lightening.

First view point in “Kabbale” peak

First view point in “Kabbale” peak

Spreading towards sea line

Spreading towards sea line

Hard workers

Hard workers

Greenish precipice

Greenish precipice

Nice couple

Nice couple

බාදුරා (Insect trap)

බාදුරා (Insect trap)

Strong bind

Strong bind

Type of cap-fungi

Type of cap-fungi

Just Click

Just Click

දුම්මල

දුම්මල

Free from leaches

Free from leaches

Just click

Just click

How cruel

How cruel

Now we reached “මැද කබ්බලේ”

Now we reached “මැද කබ්බලේ”

Ghost

Ghost

Our gang at the first peak

Our gang at the first peak

Resting place in “මැද කබ්බලේ”

Resting place in “මැද කබ්බලේ”

Type of cap-fungi

Type of cap-fungi

Another one

Another one

Looking proudly

Looking proudly

Friendly guy

Friendly guy

Alien look

Alien look

Just click

Just click

Type of cap-fungi

Type of cap-fungi

Go forward

Go forward

“කටු කිතුල්”

“කටු කිතුල්”

After passing a brow and cossing about 800 M Mountain we met the top of the “Kabbale” which is the key point of this natural forest. This also called as “Mahakabbale” and we can see towards south coastal line from here. According to our guide we can see the Galle harbor also from here in a day having a clear sky.

We decided to speed up our journey because of the forecasting of a rain. The way is fall from here along a high brow. We could scene many of “Mandora”, “Wal warka”, “Hal” and “Kalu madiriya” trees in here.

Poganatum

Poganatum

Type of cap-fungi

Type of cap-fungi

Flowers of “ගොන්දිව”

Flowers of “ගොන්දිව”

The view from “මහ කබ්බලේ”

The view from “මහ කබ්බලේ”

Type of cap-fungi

Type of cap-fungi

Design of cap-fungi

Design of cap-fungi

Passing “ගල්පොත්ත”

Passing “ගල්පොත්ත”

Just click

Just click

Mini buddies

Mini buddies

Get roled up in love

Get roled up in love

Like lamp shades

Like lamp shades

Little bit large

Little bit large

Green world

Green world

Climb down

Climb down

It’s like old

It’s like old

Nice colour

Nice colour

Just born

Just born

“තණකොළ ගොඩ නැග්මේ” resting place

“තණකොළ ගොඩ නැග්මේ” resting place

Creeper

Creeper

Little stream

Little stream

“katamada”

“katamada”

Now reaching to plain area

Now reaching to plain area

Cap-Fungi

Cap-Fungi

Just click

Just click

Type of Cap-Fungi

Type of Cap-Fungi

Green snail

Green snail

Anthill  at “Galgoda kanda giman hala”

Anthill at “Galgoda kanda giman hala”

Just click

Just click

Nice design

Nice design

We entered to main road at about 2pm with leaving “kabbale” path and then we went to watch “Anagimala ella”. After spend some time there we stepped towards preservative center again with the intention of remove the big hungry and tired.

Entering to main way

Entering to main way

Amazing “Anagimala fall”

Amazing “Anagimala fall”

Full view

Full view

Watch tower

Watch tower

Natural tunnel

Natural tunnel

“Jumping Lizard”

“Jumping Lizard”

Another one

Another one

Green path

Green path

Another successful ending

Another successful ending

With a long breath

With a long breath

Thank you very much for reading my report.

Have a safe & successful journey!!

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